E-Brake Cable Routing

[Papa]

I have been dreading trying to do anything with the e-brake assembly, but the time has come to get it done. I ran the cables from the mounting point at the exit of the trans tunnel and then to the calipers.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4406/37079540236_d303eac71e_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/YuAktS)

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4417/37079540596_877c7d7b33_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/YuAkA5)

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4336/36455207053_e78006ca83_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XxqsYD)

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4362/36455204583_846a668ab3_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Xxqsf4)

The cables are touching several parts of the rear suspension and seen like there should be a better way to route them. Am I missing something like some clamps or other management system that would keep them from rubbing?

Also, when the cables are run under the 4" cross tube, do they just rub or is there something I can do to keep them off the chassis. I've looked at some of the over the frame modifications but can't quite visualize how to get the cable ends to the correct location.

[Melb-Mike]

Yes, I agree, it does seem to be a haphazard way to run the cables. The part that bothered me was the rubbing on the 4" tube. So I made a bracket with a couple of 1.25" aluminum pulleys to guide the cable around the tube. The pulleys are shaft mounted and can rotate as the cable moves in and out. The bracket is mounted on the bottom of the 4" tube.

A couple of guys commented on mounting an electric ram to draw the cables in by activating a switch using a 12 VDC actuator with a 4" draw. I was intrigued by that but didn't follow up on it.

[Papa]

Yes, I agree, it does seem to be a haphazard way to run the cables. The part that bothered me was the rubbing on the 4" tube. So I made a bracket with a couple of 1.25" aluminum pulleys to guide the cable around the tube. The pulleys are shaft mounted and can rotate as the cable moves in and out. The bracket is mounted on the bottom of the 4" tube.

A couple of guys commented on mounting an electric ram to draw the cables in by activating a switch using a 12 VDC actuator with a 4" draw. I was intrigued by that but didn't follow up on it.

So, does my routing look "correct"? I tried running the cables in front of the axle, but that was even worse. I'm looking at Paul's (edwardb) build thread for a better idea of a way to mount a set of pulleys to run the cables over the frame.

[phileas_fogg]

One thing to watch with your parking brake cables if you have a drive shaft loop. With the cables secured in their bracket and routed under the 4” tube, mine would rub against the drive shaft loop. Not just a little bit, but a lot.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4316/35455972514_73136217ca_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W288mW)IMG_3530 (https://flic.kr/p/W288mW) by jhsitton (https://www.flickr.com/photos/91016165@N07/), on Flickr

Also, there is no room to route the cables above the tube (which was my initial intent).

I fabricated a bracket out of 1/4” thick aluminum and secured it to the 1” frame so that the cables ran outboard of the original location and free of any interference. NOTE: Set your floor pan in place before finalizing the location for your bracket. I had to move my bracket lower on the 1" frame to clear the pan; in other words, the picture below didn't get rid of the interference.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4291/35455969254_dd2d42a5e1_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W287oJ)IMG_3539 (https://flic.kr/p/W287oJ) by jhsitton (https://www.flickr.com/photos/91016165@N07/), on Flickr

Moving the bracket will most likely result in your parking brake cables being too short. No big deal; go to Home Depot or local hardware store and buy a U-Bolt. Throw the U away and use the crosspiece as a spacer. Don't worry too much if the cross piece is too long; you can drill a hole in it to get the length you want. I drilled mine a bit off-center, so that as the brake cables stretch I can flip the spacer around if needed to take up slack.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4324/35455968314_29008d9e51_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W2877w)IMG_3542 (https://flic.kr/p/W2877w) by jhsitton (https://www.flickr.com/photos/91016165@N07/), on Flickr

Cheers,


John

[Papa]

John,

Thanks for the info, it helps a lot. I'm going to play with the setup and see if I can do something to clean it up a bit. One more question for the group; I didn't get any retaining clips for the caliper end of the cables and FF tech support said they don't use them. Anyone have info to the contrary? I was thinking of finding a couple of e-clips to snap in there.

Dave

[CraigS]

The cable under the 4 inch tube seems a bit crude but it works just fine. Note the cable is coated in some kind of plastic. Your routing looks just fine. You have cut off the big ears on top of the diff which some people have used as a locator for the cable by running it through the big holes.

[phileas_fogg]

John,

Thanks for the info, it helps a lot. I'm going to play with the setup and see if I can do something to clean it up a bit. One more question for the group; I didn't get any retaining clips for the caliper end of the cables and FF tech support said they don't use them. Anyone have info to the contrary? I was thinking of finding a couple of e-clips to snap in there.

Dave

I did not get retaining clips for the caliper end either. I bought some 1/2" E-clips for them.


John

[Papa]

The cable under the 4 inch tube seems a bit crude but it works just fine. Note the cable is coated in some kind of plastic. Your routing looks just fine. You have cut off the big ears on top of the diff which some people have used as a locator for the cable by running it through the big holes.


I did not get retaining clips for the caliper end either. I bought some 1/2" E-clips for them.


John

Thank you both for the help. I'll pick up a couple of e-clips and I'm thinking of using some metal rod to make a hanger to lift the cables up off the diff. I'll post my results if that works out.

Dave

[carlewms]

Papa,

Here is another option for the "rubbing" problem ...

I mocked up my modified parking brake assembly months ago but I had not protected the parts from corrosion .... Now was the time.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cf31b3127cceeac1eb0f511800000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151111042759566.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

I finished painting the parts of the modified parking brake assembly and put it back together. The parts, which are exposed in the transmission tunnel, were painted with 2 coats of POR-15 and the topped with 2 coats of Eastwood's Detail Grey Bare Metal Replication paint.

The fully assembled parking brake lever ...

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cf31b3127cceeac1e8fe117000000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151111042831519.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The modified arms are extended which allows the cables to go above the 4" cross member instead below it as designed by FFR (where it actually rubs along the bottom of the tube).

[Papa]

Papa,

Here is another option for the "rubbing" problem ...

I mocked up my modified parking brake assembly months ago but I had not protected the parts from corrosion .... Now was the time.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cf31b3127cceeac1eb0f511800000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151111042759566.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

I finished painting the parts of the modified parking brake assembly and put it back together. The parts, which are exposed in the transmission tunnel, were painted with 2 coats of POR-15 and the topped with 2 coats of Eastwood's Detail Grey Bare Metal Replication paint.

The fully assembled parking brake lever ...

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cf31b3127cceeac1e8fe117000000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151111042831519.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The modified arms are extended which allows the cables to go above the 4" cross member instead below it as designed by FFR (where it actually rubs along the bottom of the tube).

Carl,

Thanks for that. I never would have come up with that concept. How is the geometry with respect to engaging the brakes. It seems the longer lever would reduce the number of "clicks" required to engage the brake.

Dave

[DavidW]

The extension does change the geometry and significantly reduces the number of clicks but it works and doesn't go under the frame. For me I just couldn't have it go under the frame.

739587395973960

[GFX2043mtu]

I completely understand not wanting the cables to run under the chassis as it looks incorrect. I used the Lokar cable kit from summit. I bolted the "L" bracket to the top of the 4" tube that crosses under the trans rail shaft. I also used Lokar Cable bracket to connect to the FFR parking brake after I shortened it all the way. I made a aluminum plate for the back side of the e brake chassis mount as a cable rub/guide so it won't rub the powder coat. Easy, works great and the cable doesn't go under the chassis.

[JRL16]

All manufacturers use sacrificial tubing at any rub areas on their ebrake cables. Don't know why FFR cables don't have any on them but simple enough to add them. I just used small diameter heater hose held on with zip ties. Works well.

[Papa]

Lots of great solutions here. I'm going to work on this this weekend if time permits and will post my progress in my build thread.

Thanks for the help!

[Papa]

I picked up a piece of brass rod at the home improvement store to make hangers to keep my e-brake cables up off the diff.

Here is a before picture:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4488/37014831820_9871627441_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/YoSFVw)

Here is the hanger:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4349/37014833050_3470bc19ba_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/YoSGhJ)

And the result (not permanently attached yet):

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4339/37014829590_3ca3b6047c_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/YoSFg5)

[cobrajj]

I bought the longer 1995 cables, so I could route them over the driveshaft safety loop, around the rear diff, then underneath up to the forward mounted calipers. This was using the FFR supplied hand brake lever.

[Straversi]

I have been dreading trying to do anything with the e-brake assembly, but the time has come to get it done. I ran the cables from the mounting point at the exit of the trans tunnel and then to the calipers.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4406/37079540236_d303eac71e_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/YuAktS)

.

Hey Papa,
I mounted mine stock so I don't have any advice but yesterday I discovered that the steel bracket that those cables pass through in your photo interfered with my drive shaft. After a quick search, I found I'm not the only one. Knocked a 1/4" off the corner and all is good but something you might want to check now. A little easier at the stage you are at.

-Steve

[Papa]

Hey Papa,
I mounted mine stock so I don't have any advice but yesterday I discovered that the steel bracket that those cables pass through in your photo interfered with my drive shaft. After a quick search, I found I'm not the only one. Knocked a 1/4" off the corner and all is good but something you might want to check now. A little easier at the stage you are at.

-Steve

Thanks, Steve. I really wish the FFR engineers would spend a little time on this system and clean it up. I'll mount the drive line and see what it looks like.

Dave