View Full Version : I am close. Need you guys to take me home
ok,.. I admit it,... I am one of those guys who struggles with the manual.
My problem is that I don't want to guess, so I find myself wasting weeks because I am not 100% sure of
what I'm supposed to do.
Once I know what to do it's very simple, but it's the knowing that kills me.
I am really close. I am driving her everyday.
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m207/rome_011/IMG_4637.jpg
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m207/rome_011/IMG_4634.jpg
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m207/rome_011/IMG_4630.jpg
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m207/rome_011/IMG_4633.jpg
My situation is that I have not yet done the body. I am planning to do so after driving it for the summer.
I still need to do several things before hand, including
* Installing bumpers, rear and front Chrome bumper hoops
*front and rear splash guard panels
*door strap
* Hood handles
*hood and trunk rubber seals,..
*passenger and driver door aluminum panel
rear and side view mirrors
*connecting side exhaust mounts
* placing grommets around roll bars and seat belt straps
*Drilling roll bars to bolt down
and I'm sure several more things.
My first question is, I am not sure if I will do the paint with body off or body on (depends on place) is there anything I need to wait on in case I do it body off. For example the driver door aluminum panel or or splash guards?
ok, so one thing at a time. what I'd like to do next are the bumpers. I am working on the front bumpers. I have the chrome hoop. My question is am I supposed to drill through the over rider bumpers in order to attach the hoop. Cause for the life of me I can't figure out how they go together otherwise.
bil1024
07-03-2011, 06:00 PM
I would paint with body off, if you leave the door and splash guard aluminum on, just use sheet metal screws for a temporary install. If you use rivets they can be drilled out, just don't seal with silicone
CapeCoralCobra
07-03-2011, 06:38 PM
Yes, you drill through the overriders to attach the front hoop. If they are from FFR, they are probably stainless steel. Use a good drill bit or you'll have a hell of a time drilling the holes. Make sure you use the right overriders, the rears install straight up/down and the fronts tilt forward, roughly following the shape of the nose.
seagull81
07-03-2011, 10:54 PM
Be sure to use a center punch so your bit doesn't walk and mess up the overrider. Don't ask how I know.
I would paint with body off, if you leave the door and splash guard aluminum on, just use sheet metal screws for a temporary install. If you use rivets they can be drilled out, just don't seal with silicone
Got it. Thanks. Will I have to remove them before I take the body off?
Yes, you drill through the overriders to attach the front hoop. If they are from FFR, they are probably stainless steel. Use a good drill bit or you'll have a hell of a time drilling the holes. Make sure you use the right overriders, the rears install straight up/down and the fronts tilt forward, roughly following the shape of the nose.
Great. That is exactly what I need. Little bits of information that make all the difference in the world. Quick question. Which bolt do I use? the 7" ones or the 8 or so inch ones. And should I screw them in all the way.
I know these are basic questions (that I should be able to figure out myself) but when working alone, you are just not sure, and I'd rather ask then guess.
Thanks for the pics.
Be sure to use a center punch so your bit doesn't walk and mess up the overrider. Don't ask how I know.
Lol, Will do.
CapeCoralCobra
07-04-2011, 02:11 PM
Great. That is exactly what I need. Little bits of information that make all the difference in the world. Quick question. Which bolt do I use? the 7" ones or the 8 or so inch ones. And should I screw them in all the way.
I know these are basic questions (that I should be able to figure out myself) but when working alone, you are just not sure, and I'd rather ask then guess.
Thanks for the pics.
8" bolts front & rear, tightened all the way. Rears use the quick jack SS spacers, fronts use new/different ones that are longer. If the front hoop isn't evenly spaced from the body (top vs. bottom of hoop), use some washers behind the spacers at the body mount location to push it out a little. Its been discussed that several owners, including myself, have found the top is noticeably closer without some spacer washers. FYI, with my gas tank in, I used a piece of all-thread in place of the rear, bottom pass. side bolt, as the tank is in the way of putting the bolt in from the front (not my idea, picked it up on the other forum). I used a piece 8.25", snugged it flush with the face of the nylock nut at the gas tank.
Because of the curvature of the body, I left the splash guards off until after the final body install. You might be able to get the body off & on with them installed, but I didn't want to risk paint damage. Same with the under-door alum., because your final, after paint, fit may be just a little different than than now. I didn't have the bulb seal on pre-paint, and it did change slightly.
Anything I had to drill the body for; mirrors, hood latches, roll bar grommets, I did pre-paint - much easier to fix an "Oops."
gwnorth
07-04-2011, 10:29 PM
Hello Rome
I have several To-Do lists that I evolved for the final phases of completion of my car in May. My paint was done "body off" and I tried to finish as much as I could before paint. If you're interested in these lists send me your personal email address and I'll email them to you. They're Excel spread-sheet generated.
Hello Rome
I have several To-Do lists that I evolved for the final phases of completion of my car in May. My paint was done "body off" and I tried to finish as much as I could before paint. If you're interested in these lists send me your personal email address and I'll email them to you. They're Excel spread-sheet generated.
Beautiful,.. Will do ASAP
Again, golden information. thank you.
8" bolts front & rear, tightened all the way. Rears use the quick jack SS spacers, fronts use new/different ones that are longer. If the front hoop isn't evenly spaced from the body (top vs. bottom of hoop), use some washers behind the spacers at the body mount location to push it out a little. Its been discussed that several owners, including myself, have found the top is noticeably closer without some spacer washers. FYI, with my gas tank in, I used a piece of all-thread in place of the rear, bottom pass. side bolt, as the tank is in the way of putting the bolt in from the front (not my idea, picked it up on the other forum). I used a piece 8.25", snugged it flush with the face of the nylock nut at the gas tank.
Because of the curvature of the body, I left the splash guards off until after the final body install. You might be able to get the body off & on with them installed, but I didn't want to risk paint damage. Same with the under-door alum., because your final, after paint, fit may be just a little different than than now. I didn't have the bulb seal on pre-paint, and it did change slightly.
Anything I had to drill the body for; mirrors, hood latches, roll bar grommets, I did pre-paint - much easier to fix an "Oops."
Well, I've made some progress.
Thanks to the responses and support from you guys I have installed both front and rear bumpers as well as the grommets for the roll bars.
here are some pics.
I did not install the over riders in the rear yet. The reason is that I didn't want to go through the trouble of dropping the gas tank just so I had to do so again when I remove the body for paint. I figure I will drive it around like that for now and put the over riders on when the body is done. I LOve the brilliant all thread idea but I didn't get the chance to get that by the time I put the rear in. Will do when with final install.
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m207/rome_011/IMG_4723.jpg
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m207/rome_011/IMG_4719.jpg
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m207/rome_011/IMG_4721.jpg
Next I'd like to do the hood handles and the trunk seals. I want to get her nice and tight to reduce rattle noises.
I will not be able to work on it this coming week and may not even be able to check in here, but any advice/instructions on those two things will be appreciated. Pics always help.
CapeCoralCobra
07-08-2011, 09:02 AM
I didn't follow the manual for the hood latches because I found this tip on the other forum: http://www.venomxs.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=160:hood-latches-position&catid=44:my-ffr-mkiii-venom-xs-roadster-project&Itemid=54 You can reach both latches from one side and the location is said to be more accurate to the originals.
Just curious, where in MD are you? I always wondered how difficult/easy it would be to get a F5 tagged in MD, DMV was always a PITA. Hated the Glen Burnie DMV HQ. The Annapolis office was a little better, but much simpler here in FL.
I didn't follow the manual for the hood latches because I found this tip on the other forum: http://www.venomxs.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=160:hood-latches-position&catid=44:my-ffr-mkiii-venom-xs-roadster-project&Itemid=54 You can reach both latches from one side and the location is said to be more accurate to the originals.
Just curious, where in MD are you? I always wondered how difficult/easy it would be to get a F5 tagged in MD, DMV was always a PITA. Hated the Glen Burnie DMV HQ. The Annapolis office was a little better, but much simpler here in FL.
I'm in Highland, MD, which is near Columbia, in Howard County.
I went to the Glen Burnie DMV. I really didn't have any problems or issues. It was quite simple and relatively quick.
thanks for the link
Hey guys,.. it's been a while. Made some upgrades. Quick question, I plan to install the hood latches next. How particular is the placement for these things. I noticed that different builds place them in different places. I was thinking of putting mine closer to the center of the hood (not too close, just far enough away from the corners that I don't have to worry about hitting the driver side footbox. Is that ok,.. or is that a no no with these cars.
here are some updated pics
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m207/rome_011/Cobra/IMG_4723.jpg
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m207/rome_011/Cobra/IMG_4720.jpg
Sailor
09-09-2011, 08:24 PM
http://www.venomxs.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=160:hood-latches-position&catid=44:my-ffr-mkiii-venom-xs-roadster-project&Itemid=54
Capecoralcobra posted this a few posts back. Like you I like lots of instruction and lots of pics. I dont' have my manual yet so I can't compare but after looking at it the first thing that came to mind was, what's the difference between this and the location in the manual? I'll have to compare them once I get my manual. Seems to me there's a bit of info floating around about it, dig a little and I'm sure it'll hit you in the face at some point. I find those things usually come at me all of a sudden in a AHHHH That's the answer type of moment.
bil1024
09-10-2011, 05:41 AM
Rome -
there should be a divet molded into the hood, and thats your center point for the latches
CapeCoralCobra
09-10-2011, 10:26 AM
Rome -
there should be a divet molded into the hood, and thats your center point for the latches
Yup. You'll find the very small divet (manual location) is more outboard than the location in the venomxs link.
Thanks guys. It's been so long I forgot about CapeCoral's kind and great help to this question.
Oh really there is a molded into the hood? cool. I will look for that.
btw,.. my rear hood hinge keeps coming apart on me. the little "screw" thing that holds the hinge together keeps vibrating out as I drive. Luckily it always falls inside the trunk. I am planning on glueing the end part with some silicone, but was wondering if anyone else had that issue.