Hydrocarbons To Noise Saabaru Build Thread

[Ipassgas]

Hi everyone! I'm really glad to become part of this community. I have been interested in building an 818 for years. With the front end and coupe updates, I'd become convinced it'd be my next major project. All that was left was for the pieces to fall into place. My background is not mechanical, but I enjoy wrenching, problem solving and driving like my pants are on fire! In preparation for this project, I bought a broken modern sport bike with "some sort of bad engine", dug into it and fixed it. I thought if I can't revive a fuel injected motorcycle, I have no business building a car. My garage is almost equipped enough for this project, but I expect the last pieces will come together without drama.


I have been debating appropriate donors and searching craigslist/Copart/IAAI for accessible, reasonable donors. Finally, after 2 years, I finally found a "good" donor, and with my wife's understanding, pulled the trigger on a 2006 Saab 9-2x Aero (Saabaru).

The car has 134,000 miles and an auto trans. Per the previous owner, the engine spun a bearing at 90k and was rebuilt with CP forged pistons, Manley forged rods, Cosworth bearings and forged crankshaft, 1000cc DW injectors and a 20g STI turbo. It also got SS headers, uppipe, downpipe and exhaust. The tuning is done with Tactrix Open Source.

The down sides are it's an auto, and likely has a blown head gasket (hopefully just the gasket) based on overheating at idle after prolonged driving. There is no apparent mixing of oil and water. Also, the body and interior is beat up. It is not a looker (which is a good thing for me - drove the price down)!

Up next is sourcing a 5MT to swap and a shop to work in, and ordering a kit! Though not necessarily in that order. I could use the garage, but my dear wife would much rather not, as she can accurately anticipate the amount of mess that I'll make.

I hope to keep my build thread "clean", as in I won't ask esoteric questions here, but in their appropriate sub forums.
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[longislandwrx]

Bonus points for buying the first donor with wirenuts under the hood. LMAO

good luck with project, do you know if a reputable shop built the engine?

[phil1734]

I hope to keep my build thread "clean", as in I won't ask esoteric questions here, but in their appropriate sub forums.

Thank you so much in advance for doing this. I'd bet 70% of the 818 knowledge on this forum is helplessly buried in 30+ page build threads, though it is getting better.

As for tools and shop space, I can attest that virtually my entire build was done out of a 3-drawer craftsman hand box. There's a few things like tubing benders and drills that aren't regularly in there, and I took a few parts to work to weld or press something or another, but that was typically more out of convenience rather than necessity. IMHO, it was must more important to have a well stocked hardware store nearby than a world-class shop.

[Ipassgas]

If wire nuts are good enough for my ceiling fan, they're good enough for my engine bay, right? :rolleyes:

The engine was rebuilt by the PO and his "retired aviation mechanic" buddy, in a shop (per the PO). I figure any information I have is way more than I would have gotten from Copart. Maybe it was done well. Maybe it wasn't. I'll never really know, unless/until something expensive fails catastrophically, or I decide to tear into the bottom end for some reason.

Also, I think I found a transmission! I just need to get some time to go get it, probably next weekend, pending Hurricane Irma's impact.

[Ipassgas]

And so I got a transmission. Actually, almost everything to convert the auto to manual. I still need a clutch, flywheel and starter, but that should be it. It's a TY754VN2AA, which looks like it's off a 2002 WRX. From reading the transmission thread, it should work.

Also, I ordered my kit!!! Production date is 10/28/17, but I may have to move it if I go pick it up. Stewart Transportation hasn't called me back yet.

Forward!!!!

[phil1734]

Assuming it is indeed from a 2002 WRX you're fine. Make sure you order the proper year half-shafts with your kit, and the correct year clutch kit (the throw-out bearings and pressure plate are different on the earlier transmissions due to them being a pull type clutch slave.)

[turbomacncheese]

And so I got a transmission. Actually, almost everything to convert the auto to manual. I still need a clutch, flywheel and starter, but that should be it. It's a TY754VN2AA, which looks like it's off a 2002 WRX. From reading the transmission thread, it should work.

Also, I ordered my kit!!! Production date is 10/28/17, but I may have to move it if I go pick it up. Stewart Transportation hasn't called me back yet.

Forward!!!!

I sent them the production order for mine last week as a response to our email thread and haven't heard back either. Wouldn't surprise me if they just got busy. They were really responsive when I was just asking questions, before I even placed my order. I'll probably call late this week if I don't get anything.

[Ipassgas]

Today's update involves a call to FFR. I changed the half shafts on the order to the '02 so they'll match the trans.

[Ipassgas]

Man, over a month without "progress". Well, progress has happened. My shop has been located and I moved a bunch of stuff to it. Stewart is supposed to deliver a car on Friday or Saturday, and I have some Kirkey seats on the way. (I decided to not order seats at first so I could decide exactly what I wanted). I just went with the FFR ones. :p

And I got a bad misfire on the donor. Cylinder 4. I pulled the secondary air pump (that I was tossing anyway) and installed the air pump block off plates while I was working on it. Car still has a gnarly miss after preliminary investigation, and I've lost boost. It's going to need some work, before I can get to work. :(

[David Hodgkins]

Gassyman, Welcome to the forum. I've upgraded your account for full access so you can use the pic gallery and update your profile.

Interesting user ID. Sure you wouldn't rather go by Saabaru?

Have fun with your build; another one pushing the envelope. Happens a lot around here!

:)

[Ipassgas]

Christmas came early!



I didn't have time to inventory, so that'll happen today or tomorrow.

[turbomacncheese]

Woohoo!!

[shinn497]

I have a question! Where are you building it? It looks like a warehouse park of some sort. Is that correct?

[Ipassgas]

I have a question! Where are you building it? It looks like a warehouse park of some sort. Is that correct?

That is exactly where I'm building it. My wife said no to the garage (too many cars, and I'll make too much mess). So I found an offsite shop. It's 800 sq ft, with electric (one 240 circuit, two 120 circuits). No water, heat or AC. It's 5 minutes from work, and "cheap". The whole complex is probably a dozen units. Mine's the smallest. There is also a full time Honda mechanic, a surfboard/paddleboard maker, a guy who has a "buy here, pay here" place that fixes his personal collection, and a "motorcycle club" headquarters. It should be more than I need to get this car built!

And as for progress, I have successfully removed all the fiberglass parts from the frame and inventoried 2 whole boxes! Man, I wish I didn't have to work.

[phil1734]

I hope to keep my build thread "clean", as in I won't ask esoteric questions here, but in their appropriate sub forums.

Someone please get this man an award! He actually knows how to use a forum!

[shinn497]

That is exactly where I'm building it. My wife said no to the garage (too many cars, and I'll make too much mess). So I found an offsite shop. It's 800 sq ft, with electric (one 240 circuit, two 120 circuits). No water, heat or AC. It's 5 minutes from work, and "cheap". The whole complex is probably a dozen units. Mine's the smallest. There is also a full time Honda mechanic, a surfboard/paddleboard maker, a guy who has a "buy here, pay here" place that fixes his personal collection, and a "motorcycle club" headquarters. It should be more than I need to get this car built!

And as for progress, I have successfully removed all the fiberglass parts from the frame and inventoried 2 whole boxes! Man, I wish I didn't have to work.

That is awesome!

How did you find such a park? I have considered getting a warehouse too but I don't think you can use storage places, as they do no allow it.

[Ipassgas]

Man, it's been nearly a month, and I feel like I have nothing to show for it.

Shinn, the warehouse park is behind a strip mall. I found this one on craigslist in the commercial for rent section. Most towns of any size have a bunch of these. Usually, they are just off a main artery, and frequently behind something "customer facing". The access is good, but the visibility is bad. Too noisy for housing, and too hard to see for retail. So these get built. Use Google maps satellite imaging and look along the major roads in your town. Once you know what you're looking for, you'll see them.


I don't have nothing to show for the last month. I inventoried every box, and the only thing I'm absolutely certain is missing is the Rivnut tool.

I also got some air lines plumbed in the shop, so I have air! Yea!

More importantly, I got the Kirkey seats I bought from a member here. It was a mess, because the shipping I arranged lost them for 3 weeks. They're here now, so that's great!
And I got the frame to and from the powder coater. They ran out of my powder (RAL 5005) so I don't have the firewalls or brackets back yet. They promised this week, but since it's Wednesday afternoon, I'm not holding my breath.

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[DSR-3]

The "Riv-Nut tool" consists of a hole in the end of the spring-perch adjuster tool and a 1/4-20 screw and nut... Do yourself a favor and get at least a mid-range tool. The cheapo ones may not last through the build, and the nice ones are pretty(or very!) spendy.

[Ipassgas]

I got distracted by the holidays, and another obligation. I'm back though, and should be making consistent progress for the foreseeable future.

Since the last update, I got the car on its side, riveted on the floors, fought with gravity and the pneumatic riveter, and finally got it centered on my lift. Next up: firewalls.

[Hindsight]

Frame and floor pans look great. Only comment is that you REALLY have that floor pan on there now.... depending on the seat brackets and seat belts you want to put in, you may need to take that floor pan off. I used rivetnuts to attach mine because I have to take it off to remove my seats.

[turbomacncheese]

I didn't powder coat my frame, so I'm "lucky" there that I'm going to weld brackets that my seats can bolt to. Once I decided that, I crawled on my back and put the floor up before the engine went in, and man, that sucked too.

[Ipassgas]

It's been way too long, but I'm still at it, just slowly.

Front firewall is riveted and cleco. I got some aluminum LCAs and drilled and fitted the shock mount. The drilling should have been quick and easy. It was neither.8327483275

[Ipassgas]

I've had to go back, to go forward. I was having so much fun with the (running, driving) Saabaru, I had been using it 3x per week, until a tire failed (horribly bald) or I had to start taking parts. Basically, both happened at the same time.
So I've been stripping the donor.

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[Ipassgas]

The latest progress has me putting "go" parts on, finally. The LCAs went in pretty well, but the instructions said to use the donor mounting hardware. I have the donor bolts for the silver part, but no nuts. I double checked, and the Subaru nuts were welded to the donor. Unless I missed something, I need to buy some nuts.

Also, I got the upper A arms in. That was a struggle, because they didn't fit. The holes were perfectly aligned, but the gap was too small to allow the A arms into their welded bracket. I used some grease, some force and some tools to get them in.

Apparently a car is built 10 minutes at a time. At least this one is.

[phil1734]

The nuts come from one of the strut bolts previously at the top of the knuckle. Doesn't really matter which, they're all the same.

[turbomacncheese]

I think I pried my brackets apart there ever-so-slightly, and then tightened the bolts to squeeze them back down.

10 minutes at a time sounds about right. Just wait until you get the engine/trans in. Then it's some REALLY slow going.

[Ipassgas]

Todays update had me going back, to go forward (again).

I skipped the "take apart the front CV axles" because it was a messy, messy job. And like many others, I was having a hell of a time with them. The instructions say to tap the outer piece off the axle. I clamped the axle in a vise, and tapped. And tapped. And tapped. As it happens, I have a pair of spare axles, so I figured if I wreck something, I have a spare. I kept the axle in the vise, took a 4" section of 2x4 and set it on the final drive segment. Using a 24 oz framing hammer, I wailed on the 2x4. After 3 whacks, I saw some splines emerge, as there was movement. 3 whacks later, it was off. The other axle was undone in the same way, but with 2 whacks.

The ball bearings and races did not want to come out, but with some screwdriver persuasion, I managed to remove the balls and races, the cleaned out the grease.

While this was happening, I painted the spindles (axle bearing carrier, in Subaru parlance).

[Ipassgas]

This update contains purchase of tires (Falken Azensis 215/40/17 front, 265/35/18 rear) as recommended by Phil1734 in the wheel and tire thread.

My Exedy KSB03 clutch and a 12 lb Chromoloy flywheel came, along with a Gates timing belt kit.

The front end is coming together, as I've now installed the axle bearing carrier and shocks. The shock collar didn't want to go over the cylinder smoothly, but half a shot of WD-40 solved that without complication.

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[phil1734]

Great to see someone taking my advice! For what it's worth, at a very wet and sloppy Auto-X this past weekend the regular guys (who know roughly where they should finish in their class) running the Falkens were much closer than typical to the guys running Bridgestones and Michelins.

Also if you didn't, adjust the front spring perch so it's about 2.5-2.75 inches up from the bottom of the threaded sleeve, 3.75" on the rears. They're a pain in the *** to adjust later with the spanner so you want to save that for the fine-tuning of ride height. And don't forget to tighten/loosen the set screw in the perch as required.

[Ipassgas]

I fell way behind on this page, but the blue Saabaru has been moving forward.

First off, the front end is done. The steering rack is depowered.

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The timing belt and water pump was replaced. I had a helper for this stage.

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I got the engine in. I thought I could get it in with the oil filter and headers on the block. I couldn't. :confused:

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I put the flywheel on and clutch (since I'm switching the auto to a 5MT).

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I put the rear end together.

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I put the pedal box in.

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I also put in my brake booster. Like TurboMacnCheese, I'm trying to get weak power brakes, since it sounds like there is an issue with the stock booster (too touchy), and the manual brakes (too hard). I settled on the Geo Metro booster. It bolts straight up. No modification. None. The rod is bit short, but the auto brake rod has a longer clevis, that I put on it. I have no idea if it'll work, or how well. I'll tell you in many months.

[Ipassgas]

More booster pictures.

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I also put the steering wheel in.

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And the drive by wire accelerator pedal.

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And here we are.
If you guys want more explanation or pics, let me know. I'll do a better job of staying up to date.

[turbomacncheese]

I can't wait to see how that booster goes. The master is all wrapped up and I forget...was that from the geo, too?

[Ipassgas]

The master is from the Geo. But I think I'm going to change it. The Geo has tiny wheel cylinders, and I'm concerned about the amount of fluid the master cylinder pushes. I'll probably see if I can put the Subaru master on the Geo booster. Probably. I'll start a brake thread at some point, and link it here.

[Ipassgas]

So some more progress pics:

I put the Holly Hydramat into the tank. Unfortunately, it didn't fit. I cut the hanger for the pump and now, it fits! I riveted the hanger back together with a piece of metal from . . . something Subaru. :p

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I moved onto the ABS system. I had no great idea for how to attach the ABS module to the car. So, I modified the stock bracket. I cut a bit out the bracket, and bent it into a more useful shape.

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But now, where to put it. Hmm.
So, the best I could come up with: bolt it to the firewall, below the clutch slave. (I also ran the brake lines.)

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At this point, I decided I need hydraulics to work. So, I filled and bled both systems. Brakes went perfect. Got the air out, calipers bite, soft pedal though. I won't hazard a guess as to how the Geo booster/master cylinder will work. (I'm a little worried.)
Anyway, the clutch hydraulic system didn't go well. I realized I was missing parts, and got them from Exedy and my friendly neighborhood Subie dealer. So then, I bled the system, and nothing happened at the slave. Nothing. So I asked my neighbor mechanic for his ideas. That turned into 2 neighbor mechanics. Neither of which were familiar with the 2002 WRX 5MT and the pull type transmission in general. We ended up removing the transmission, and one insisted I had the wrong parts, because the pull type clutch can't exist.
Anyway, out of better ideas, I got a new clutch master cylinder. I put it on, flushed it, and it did the same thing; nothing. I then take a deep breath, and re-evaluate. I lengthened the rod for the master to pedal connection. Now, the slave does something. Not much. But something. So I lengthen the rod. And now it mostly works. With a bit more fiddling, I got it right. :)

[Ipassgas]

Moving to the transmission: I followed the directions, and remembered to remove the bearing race.

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And that brings us to today. Wiring. Wiring, is a dirty, tedious job. But I can now read a wiring diagram. So win?
Seriously, I didn't do this right. K3LAG (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12055-The-Savage-build-thread/page3) starting with post 90 outlines how to do this. I labeled every connector by what it did and/or where it was. Subaru sort of did that too. But they put it in a big 150 pg organized document. It's called a wiring diagram. So now I'm mostly going back to my labels, and using a sharpie to label them like Subaru did. I would have saved a bunch of time in aggregate, if I'd used the diagram from the beginning. I didn't, because I didn't know better, and I didn't know how to read a wiring diagram.

I'm moving forward.


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[aquillen]

You have to develop the skill to just look at one wire at a time. Take in the whole mess and you get overloaded. Like not eating a plate of spaghetti in one bite... :)

[turbomacncheese]

Man, picking up the wiring diagram sounds like it was good advice. Kudos to whoever convinced you ;)

[Ipassgas]

I'm still plugging away on the wiring. It's getting close. Real close. And I think I FUBARed the EEPROM I was trying to reset to 0 miles. But there is a plan to solve it.

Since I was looking for a satisfying win, I started on the cooling system. Running the pipes didn't take a ton of time, but were a solid win.
Also, I finished the rear firewall. The manual says to rivet the center panel, but that would mean moving every wire through the hole to remove rear firewall. I figured I didn't want that. My original plan was rivnuts, but Turbomacncheese pointed out that the metal is pretty thick, and not under stress. So I just tapped the steel. It worked like a charm.


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[lsfourwheeler]

I don't know if you've already adjusted them, but the front end of the cooling pipes have to be almost inside the corner section of the cabin so they don't hit the wheels at full lock. I'm hoping I can get my ABS module and brakes plumbed and working soon as well. How's the pedal feel on your setup?

[turbomacncheese]

... but Turbomacncheese pointed out that the metal is pretty thick, and not under stress. So I just tapped the steel. It worked like a charm.


Really glad that worked out. I was just thinking out loud, but I guess it has to be on my plan, now.

[Ipassgas]

LSfourwheeler- Thank you. I am hitting the tubes at less than full lock. I pulled them back, so I'm OK now. better to do it now than later.

I can't really speak to the pedal feel yet. I haven't hooked up any vacuum, nor put a seat in. Soon though. Hopefully by the end of March. Maybe even by the end of next week?
HA HA HA HA HA!

Maybe by the end of the month. Maybe.

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[Ipassgas]

So the wiring has been stuffed under the proverbial bed (out of sight out of mind?)

The car got 3 feet longer, since the radiator bracket was added.

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The radiator was installed. I lost the lower radiator rubber bushings, somehow. So I ordered new ones. I'm still amazed at how cheap factory Subaru parts are. Then, of course, I found them. So I have 2 sets. I put the new ones in, and plumbed the cooling system.

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I did the VCP cooling system mod, and haven't quite decided how to plumb it. The donor overflow tank has since been painted black, and I'm not sure where to mount it. It'll happen soon.

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I also realized that the interior tins that cover the cooling tubes never got installed (thanks for pointing it out, Sgarrett/Mass build!). So that happened on the right, and I realized I bent some of the left aluminum. I haven't dealt with that yet.

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And I put the donor air filter on. It looks super classy. It has a distinct flavor of Autozone Rice.

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So the transmission tunnel doesn't fit on the passenger side. The root problem is that the gas tank isn't square. Either the baffles are too big, or it warped when being welded. So now the tunnel doesn't fit.

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I trimmed the end off and now it fits.

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[AZPete]

I wish I had cut the top of the transmission tunnel so I could remove the top later for repairs & upgrades. Think about doing that while you can.
You proved that the best way to find something, like your radiator spacers, is to buy a new one. Works every time. :mad:
And, the blue frame looks bewtaful.

[Ipassgas]

Thanks, Pete.
I do plan to section the tunnel into 3 pieces. Turbomacandcheese and I already discussed it. I'm hoping to do it this week.

There is a lot of hope happening in this build.

[sgarrett]

There is a lot of hope happening in this build.

Wow! That sounds familiar. Your car is looking good! I am jealous that you have been able to move on from the wiring.

I try to peck away at it every week....one wire at a time.

[turbomacncheese]

Wow! That sounds familiar. Your car is looking good! I am jealous that you have been able to move on from the wiring.

I try to peck away at it every week....one wire at a time.

Same here. I'm happy if I get 10 or 15 minutes a night to knock out a wire or two. Ipassgass introduced himself by informing me that we were racing, and now he's winning!!!

[Ipassgas]

It is a "race" car we're building. And I'm not sure I'm winning. The race is long, and things happen. But I'm holding my own! :cool:
As a consolation, you're slaughtering me in build thread views here, 3:1.


So, I haven't sectioned the tunnel yet. It's in the works.

Other progress though:

I started on the seats. I got some Kirkey's with the mounting brackets from a roadster guy on this forum. Unfortunately, they sit too low when placed on the x bars. It's hard to see, but the lateral to floor brace is hitting the thigh.

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So to fix this, I decided to elevate the brackets, thus putting peoples legs over the bar. I wasn't sure how high it needed to be.

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2x4s showed me it was right about 2.5". I couldn't figure out how to make the FFR stock seat brackets work.
I know a guy and managed to get a free section of 3" x 3" x 1/4" angle iron. It's thicker than I would have wanted, and 4" might have been better, but I can't beat free. So I started making brackets.

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I also learned when using an angle grinder, with flammable clothing, you should be careful where the sparks are aimed.

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[Ipassgas]

The brackets turned out well enough, and provided enough elevation to avoid the bar.
I bolted up the brackets and I can't wiggle them, at all. They are almost certainly the strongest thing on the car. 1/4" steel is no joke.

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So the brackets are bolted in, laterally. I'm running 5 point harnesses and I bolted the lower belts in as well.

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Also, I got a fancy new-to-me 5 speed dash with 1 mile on it! Thanks for the assist, Art Quillen!

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Some time was wasted when my bees swarmed, and I decided I needed to capture them and build them a new home. To do this, I modified one of my too many shop vacs into a bee vac. I put a plastic bag over the cage to limit the flow. I only lost a few.

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This one felt so attached she rode my leg into the house

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It hasn't been all fun and games around here though. People got hurt. 3 High school kids. Hummer H2 vs VW sedan. They should all recover fully, eventually.

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Then in the same week, a high school freshman committed suicide. To those with kids out there, make sure they know they're loved, and wanted. And that the bad times will probably pass.


Have fun motoring, because that's what this whole hobby is about.

[Ipassgas]

Although there has been no progress on the thread in 5 months, there has been real life progress.

I got the harness bar installed. What I thought were spacers were really bushings. They fit inside the bar ends, with another spacer/stand off against the frame.

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When I put the seats in, I can just barely buckle the 5 point harness. I may need longer shoulder straps, or extensions. But that's a problem for another day.

I got the shifter installed, per the manual, and while it works, it is VERY sloppy. And here I thought all of the people working on their own shifter solutions were just over achievers. Now I realize, everyone is trying to solve a real problem. Except AQuillen - he's just an overachiever!

I don't have any interesting pics of my "interesting" solution.

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So the only things that should keep me from running are the parking brake, and main fuse panel. I was hoping to put the fuse panel behind the passenger seat, but couldn't get it to reach. At some point, I'll need to readdress it, but for now it's stuffed into the console, under the parking brake lever.

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The parking brake went OK. nothing interesting to report, and I may move it. I don't currently have an opinion about where it's located, but I may after driving some.
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Speaking of driving, the first start was 5/20/19. There were coolant leaks, and oil leaks, and noise, since it's "no piped". The brakes are soft without the vacuum, and I got some more air out of the lines. I need to give them a lot more attention, as if this is as good as they get, the Metro experiment will be a failure. The alignment is terrible, and needs to be addressed. The tach doesn't work. The speedo isn't hooked to anything. But it starts, stops, runs and drives, and has (some) gears!

[aquillen]

Except for that tach you seemed to have "achieved" quite a lot... :)

[Ipassgas]

After working the parking brake a few times, I noticed the cable was abrading against the cover. I used a bit of the push on trim to cushion it.

At this point, I've moved on to the body. Cutting the hole for the fuel filler was uneventful, but I had some trouble figuring the exact center for the tail lights. When installing the fuel filler, don't forget to attach the grounding strap. A spark with gasoline vapor could ruin your day.
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Next is headlights.Grinding the tabs off of the Hellas was pretty straightforward. Mounting them into the buckets was less so. The adjustment posts have balls on one end that sit in plastic buckets that snap into the holes with tabs, on the headlight buckets. For whatever reason, the holes in the headlight bucket didn't quite align with the adjustment bolts. Whenever I'd insert them, they'd pop out seconds to minutes later. Also, the retention tabs wouldn't engage, because the bucket plastic was too thick, by a tiny amount. Eventually, I carefully ground the plastic down to make it thinner, massaged it together and gave it a generous helping of JB Weld, making sure not to impair the adjustment bolts movement.
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[Ipassgas]

I ran out of allotted pics. More headlights.
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Mounting them was an experience. The buckets and the fenders didn't want to play nice. The hole didn't quite align with the buckets, and the contours were off a bit. Finally, with some fiberglass removal, they fit OK. I screwed them in and moved on to the lenses. The lenses didn't fit well, at all. I ground some of the plexiglass away, and used a heat gun to massage them into better shape. The plexiglass becomes flexible when it becomes opaque, but like steel, it retains some memory. To change the curve, you need to overshoot where you're going with it. Also, be very careful not to bend the center the opposite way. Imagine trying to flatten a bowl. Thumbs on the ridge, fingers on the bottom, applying opposing force. Be careful. Instead of flattening the bowl, you may just dent the bottom. Ask how I know . . . .
Next, I outlined where I wanted my black trim to be, and masked it off. Careful cleaning and some flat black rattle can gave me a good look.
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I then used the best double sided tape Home Depot had to tape the lenses on. Final result is down right respectable.

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[sgarrett]

Looks like the two of us are at the same point in our builds! I am going to spend a little time fitting all of the aluminum around the nose before tackling the body panels.

And I had the same issue with the e-brake. I ended up cutting away the interfering metal and will need to go back and make a cover for it.

[Ipassgas]

And I thought I was only racing Turbomacncheese.
If you drop a gauntlet like that, I have to pick it up . . .

[sgarrett]

Oh boy....definitely not a race on my end. I seem to only be able to work on it these days when I pretend that it takes a really long time to take the trash out to the garage. :)

[Ipassgas]

Where does the time go? 6 months between updates? I should be ashamed. Rest easy fellow soldiers; though the pace has slackened, our resolve has never been stronger! (Ok, not really. I'll admit to letting some other stuff get in the way. Family obligations, video games, global pandemics . . .) I have been making ever more progress. To try to get the thread closer to real time:

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While the gelcoat was sold as a "no paint solution" I heard no body work. As you can see, between the seams on various panels, the voids in this quarter, the hump in the bumper, there is a lot of body work needed to make this look good. Not a complaint, per se, but I really was hoping when I placed my order, that this wouldn't be in my future.

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Bending the struts for the fender mounting bracket went well. I followed the books instructions and succeeding in twisting the bars, and not wrecking the powder coat. Win.

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The brackets mounted up nicely.

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The fenders went as well as could be expected. There is a lot of adjust-ability in the brackets, and I'm glad it's there. I got them level and thought I was in good shape.

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Resting the hood in place, made me sigh again. The hood lip is long. Very long. On the left, the hood is 1/4" proud of the fender. I can raise the fender some. It may be OK. On the right, it's proud by 1/2". I can't raise the fenders nearly that much. I'm going to have to grind off the lip. Not the worst of fates, but something to tackle in the future. Also, I'm supposed to cut out the holes in the hood, apply the mesh, and use the trim pieces to fix the cosmetics. I, for the life of me, can't find those darned trim rings. I don't see them on the packing list either. I called FFR. They told me to look again. I've been looking for a couple of months. I still can't find them. I'll either need to go with the zero decibel solution or order new ones.

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And I put vacuum on the Metro booster. I still had no brakes. :(

[Ajzride]

If the PO included the trim rings in the stuff he gave me you can have mine. Do you have a picture of what I’ll be looking for?

[DSR-3]

Before you cut the hood- I have a set of new 0dB small hood louvers that I'll send you for $25 shipped- I'll throw in the stock trim rings too if you want them (not needed)!

[idf]

I also have a set of trim rings and grills powder coated black that you can have. Keep in mind that the reason I have them is I decided I wanted to get more hot air from behind the radiator and went to the larger 0dB louvers.

[Ipassgas]

Hello all. I'd like to beg your indulgence. This page has not been a priority lately. I'll get it up to date, eventually. I got the Zero dB louvers from DSR-3 and cut the hood holes. Then I got distracted.
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I bought her with a known blown head gasket, and replaced it, with all manner of other parts, "since I'm in here . . ." It isn't as cheap as I first envisioned. And as of today, it still doesn't run.

Then, last week, lightning struck and I committed to being very distracted for the forseeable future.

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It doesn't run either. :p

Then, my wife said I don't want to finish the 818. Which of course was taken as a challenge (like she intended). So. I have 3 cars to juggle now. The 818 isn't abandoned. I swear.

[Ajzride]

If you decided 3 is too much you can drop the AM off here.

[Ipassgas]

Your generous offer is noted! :cool:

[Hobby Racer]

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Even if it never runs, you can just wax it and look at it all day . . . its sooooo pretty.

[aquillen]

Maybe I should send you my latest t-shirt, grandkids gave me... it says "just one more car, I promise"

[Ipassgas]

The WRX has been working great for a year now. The Aston Martin damage has all been repaired (I omitted those pics. It ran over a parking stop and a lot of stuff was mangled underneath. It now has a computer problem and I put it on a flat bed to the nearest dealer, 200 miles away. It sits there still, undiagnosed, and having never moved under it's own power in my ownership.)

I planned to be done 18 months ago. I'm defiantly not done. In fact, yesterday is the first time I've worked on it in a year. I did the hinges for the hatch. It isn't much, but it's progress. All progress is good progress.
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[turbomacncheese]

Man, fitting up the body already..... You just might win this yet!

[Ipassgas]

This page is wicked behind. But not as behind as I'd like. Life got in the way and I've finished 4 other cars, in addition to the '05 WRX and Aston since the last update, in addition to starting/ finishing flight school.

Getting up to speed is unlikely with this page, so we'll jump ahead to present day.

A solid reason I let this drag so long is the doors. I am addition in so many ways with the shell fitment.
Right side isn't terrible. It's close between the B pillar and door.
The left, has a finger size gap that I've improved from a 2 finger gap.

I'm open to any help people can offer!

Somehow, my picture got filled upside down!