Yama-Bro's MK4 Build Thread - #9158 (Index in Post #1)

[Papa]

Frank,

Another thing not in the manual that I think is better is to run your license plate wiring between the inner and outer panel and pull the harness through a grommet near the top of the inside panel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=90826&d=1533604305

Dave

[Yama-Bro]

Frank,

Another thing not in the manual that I think is better is to run your license plate wiring between the inner and outer panel and pull the harness through a grommet near the top of the inside panel.

Dave

Oh yeah, that looks pretty good. Thanks for the tip. I have plenty of time to implement that. If you didn't do what you show in the picture would you run it on top the tube that's at the top of the inner trunk panel?

[BB767]

Frank and everyone else at this stage. When I got my car back from paint a few weeks ago, I needed to install the upper rear body bolts, the paint shop had only installed the lowers. I did not read anywhere, nor have I seen it mentioned, the fuel tank must be loosened and dropped a few inches to get those bolts in there! I ended up going with threaded rod to make it a little easier but it was still a MAJOR pain-in-the-you know what to do this after the car was mostly complete! Depending on what you are using (quick jacks, over riders, or bumpers) I would HIGHLY suggest you install what you are going to put there BEFORE you do the final install on the fuel tank, I certainly wish I would have!

[Yama-Bro]

Frank and everyone else at this stage. When I got my car back from paint a few weeks ago, I needed to install the upper rear body bolts, the paint shop had only installed the lowers. I did not read anywhere, nor have I seen it mentioned, the fuel tank must be loosened and dropped a few inches to get those bolts in there! I ended up going with threaded rod to make it a little easier but it was still a MAJOR pain-in-the-you know what to do this after the car was mostly complete! Depending on what you are using (quick jacks, over riders, or bumpers) I would HIGHLY suggest you install what you are going to put there BEFORE you do the final install on the fuel tank, I certainly wish I would have!

Hey BB767, Thanks for the advice, but isn't this the purpose of the Kliener mod that a lot of people do? I did it in post #211. Correct me if I'm wrong.

[BB767]

Hey BB767, Thanks for the advice, but isn't this the purpose of the Kliener mod that a lot of people do? I did it in post #211. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Dooooooh, I missed that one. Sure wish I didn't. You are on top of it! For every one else, GET IT NOW!

[Yama-Bro]

I worked on the the Russ Thompson drop trunk box modification this last week. I finished it up Friday morning. This basically gives you more room for junk in the trunk, and who doesn't like room for that? It ships flat and you have to assemble it. It's well made, mine shipped promptly, came with good instructions, and fit together great. Oh, and Russ is a nice guy that responded to my questions quickly. I'd recommend it!
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1887/42305195550_c932b4a8cd_b.jpg

I used the FFR rivet spacer to mark the rivets. I used 2" spacing per Russ' instructions. It came out perfect. If you are doing this, just remember to space the rivets far enough from edges of the box so that you can still get the rivet gun/tool in the area.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1811/44065416612_2c847ab0d8_b.jpg

The box roughly clamped together. The panels of the box are made of .060" thick aluminum...so about .020" thicker that the FFR panels. You can tell it has a little more girth to it.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1879/42305206720_181e6c090a_b.jpg

More drilling and riveting...will this ever end? =) I silicone caulked all the edges so there won't be any squeaks, creaks, or leaks when it's on the road...
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1844/42305221890_effec7a3a4_b.jpg

Wyatt doing some riveting. The boys have pretty much lost interest in drilling panels at this point.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1870/43395723944_7182a43ebc_b.jpg

The assembled trunk box. I don't know about you, but I think that's a lot of storage space that I can use later on.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1877/43395729974_8264556ba1_b.jpg

[Yama-Bro]

Drop trunk mod continued...

I placed mine 1.125" from the driver's side tube and 1.125" from the rear tube. This centered the fuel level sending unit directly under the hole in the box and put a nice overlap between the front side of the panel and the front edge of the lower trunk floor.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1817/44114588811_f4179cee22_b.jpg

After figuring out where I wanted to place it in the chassis, I had to cut notches to clear the frame. These were close to what Russ marked, but just a bit off, so make sure to measure and mark yours.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1817/44114588811_f4179cee22_b.jpg

And here's where it's going to sit. Again, despite not having a quad any more, the ATV lift proves it's worth.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1867/30246470398_07d3874e0f_b.jpg

Cutting the hole in the trunk floor. I started small, then marked the opening from underneath using the edge of the box as a template. Then did the final cut. It worked good.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1868/44065501012_1d22f74c2b_b.jpg

And here it is, all held in place with Clecos. I'm not sure how you could build one of these cars without Clecos. They make it so much easier.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1845/44114681741_698afd2973_b.jpg

Another view. Russ' kit comes with an access panel to cover the hole for the fuel sender. I know some guys cut the frame and remove the angled tubes, which may be fine, but that didn't seem like a good idea to me, so I left them in. I'm guessing FFR put them in there for a reason, whether for frame rigidity, or for safety. Having the tubes does cut down on the usefulness of the extra trunk area slightly, but I think the gains are still big. This modification probably makes it possible to put a cooler in the trunk...I mean, that's a pretty big deal.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1865/44114679511_03577e8cf0_b.jpg

This picture kinda reminds me of a kitchen sink. HAHA.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1890/44114677331_6543bd1b8d_b.jpg

[Jazzman]

Nicely done, Bro! You're going to be glad you did that!!

[Higgybulin]

Cobra?.....Check! Cooler?.....Check! Lets go!!!!
Higgy

[Yama-Bro]

Nicely done, Bro! You're going to be glad you did that!!

I think you are right. This upgrade was a must for me.


Cobra?.....Check! Cooler?.....Check! Lets go!!!!
Higgy

:D

[cv2065]

Looking great YB!! I had the same small overlap on that vertical trans tunnel piece. It was minor so I didn't trim it, so seems like a common deal.

[Yama-Bro]

Looking great YB!! I had the same small overlap on that vertical trans tunnel piece. It was minor so I didn't trim it, so seems like a common deal.

Thanks cv!

[Yama-Bro]

Next up...battery box install. This piece is designed and sold by FFmetals. It's a nice well made part. This box mounts the battery under the floor of the trunk, giving you more trunk space and lowering the center of gravity (bonus). The other option to get more trunk space was moving the battery to the engine compartment, which is a pretty good solution, but I don't like the weight transfer or the visual aspects of that solution as much.

Here's everything you get with the box...
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1895/44114689371_c6a1cee61c_b.jpg

The first step was to assemble the box to the brace and put it in place. It fit so good that I decided just to drill and rivet it in permanently. While I was in the process of locking it in place I was thinking how much it would suck to have to remove it. That's when I realized that I overlooked installing all the small rivets that hold the box together...oh crap!!. Before taking the walk of shame and drilling out all the rivets that I just put in, I attempted the contortionist act of putting the small rivets into the box while it was installed in the frame. I was over, under, around, and thru the box in every angle possible...all while using two different rivet tools. Despite the lack of space, I managed to get all the small rivets into the box...plus got a yoga workout in the process. I got Lucky!
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1818/43207559615_0643fc9451_b.jpg

The installed battery box...
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1854/30246584658_43a314437a_b.jpg

Similar to cutting the hole for the drop trunk modification, I also had to cut a hole for the battery box. Also like the drop trunk mod, I started small and worked my way up.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1849/43207584625_90dfff1a6f_b.jpg

Here's the upper trunk floor cleco'ed in place. I made some larger holes to clear the screw heads that hold the battery box brace. In this picture, they are the two silver screws to the sides of the box, directly under the arched tube...
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1849/43207604495_06f87a0b06_b.jpg

The cover for the battery box in place...
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1874/29176751267_d62259f1fe_b.jpg

And there it is. I made it thru drilling and fitting the aluminum panels. Whew. There are a few more to do later in the build, but I'm calling it good on these for now and ready to move to the next step. I'll point out that I will carpet the whole trunk later on in the project.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1863/43207613035_21b6fd57b4_b.jpg

[shark92651]

The trunk is looking great! I spent way more time on the trunk then I thought I would, but I think it is definitely worth the effort.

[Yama-Bro]

The trunk is looking great! I spent way more time on the trunk then I thought I would, but I think it is definitely worth the effort.

I agree, We'll probably never regret adding trunk space.:cool:

[Yama-Bro]

When I ordered my kit I didn't see the front sway bar on the order form (this was before they overhauled the site), but a few months back I saw some one putting one on their roadster, so I called FF and got one on order. My son and I put it on this weekend. It was a fairly straight forward upgrade. It was easy to put on.

Here are all the parts that come with the sway bar...
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1865/44302727161_06ec44bfd9_b.jpg

The first step is to shorten the male and female rod ends so they have about 1/2" of threads remaining. I used my electric band saw to remove the extra material.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1869/43585677474_19e362e4ee_b.jpg

I cleaned my cut up with the grinder and then taped off the cut edges and gave the cut edges of the parts a coating of silver paint to keep them from rusting...
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1886/44302725601_f81196da02_b.jpg

We loosely assembled the sway bar. I noticed the brackets slightly interfered with the welds on the frame. We ground a little material off each bracket to take care of that problem
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1862/43396908985_7c4d27bee2_b.jpg

Per the instructions we attached the sway bar to the lower shock mount...
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1899/42495111570_8010f467d6_b.jpg

Here's a close up looking from underneath...
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1851/42495096680_aa0a35e04f_b.jpg

The spacer and bolt look a little chintzy to me, but I'm no suspension engineer and there are a lot of these on the track and street, so I'm going to go with it.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1845/42495108020_2356049550_b.jpg

[broku518]

You will be very happy that you did the trunk mod!
It is just enough for the weekly groceries. if you want to go the Costco, you may need to do couple trips ;)

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1765/42610024084_38db226ca2_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/27VivDE)

[Yama-Bro]

:D haha!!

[Yama-Bro]

I accomplished a little on the car this weekend; not as much as I hoped (I'll show you why, later). I installed the front flexible brake lines.

Here are all the parts for this portion of the build. Most of these came with the brake kit I purchased from Gordon Levy Racing...
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1853/44477784881_94c5ddd803_b.jpg

Here's the brake line mounting tab riveted to the frame with 3/16 rivets. I searched for two hours thru boxes and bags for another pair of these for the back. It seems as though FFR doesn't supply these. I'll have to get another pair.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1870/43742796924_8ac5494273_b.jpg

This is what it looks like assembled. The brake lines seem kind of long to me. These are 18". I'm thinking of switching them out for some 16 inchers. What do you guys think? It seems like no matter which way I point them, they will rub on another component, whether it's the wheel, spring, or a-arm. I've also considered getting some sort of clamp to fasten the line to the a-arms. We used to have stuff like that back in my ATV riding days. That would keep the line from jiggling around.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1874/42651723840_70efba2285_b.jpg

[Yama-Bro]

And here's the reason we didn't get much done...the boys wanted to put the body on the car. Since it was the year anniversary of the delivery (on Labor day last year), it sounded like a good idea to me too.

We dropped in the seats, steering wheel, doors, lowered it to the ground. We even had the shifter out for awhile.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1896/30591062878_103f35e050_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1890/43551231465_27ee58cd8c_b.jpg

Here they are testing the acceleration. We spent several hours making car noises and admiring it. :cool:
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1862/43551232835_bce7979127_b.jpg

I had to get a shot of it next to my son's rat rod motor bike...
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1848/44460620361_ed19769a7d_b.jpg

He's been mowing yards all summer to pay for parts to build this. I think it turned out really cool.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1843/29522827347_48599ce77e_b.jpg

[Straversi]

How cool is that? The boys will always remember days like that. Love the bike but even more that he worked for it
-Steve

[Mark Eaton]

Looking good Yama-Bro! Putting the body and wheels on DEFINITELY gets you that much closer. My swaybars looked like yours and I didn't like the angle so I trimmed the spacers.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80781&d=1518407991

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80783&d=1518408040

I don't know if it matters but I thought it looked better that way. Looking at it now though I realize I need to remove them again and powder coat them...

[Yama-Bro]

How cool is that? The boys will always remember days like that. Love the bike but even more that he worked for it
-Steve

Thanks Steve! I'll let him know you like it. I'm proud of him for building it as well as working for it. I helped him with a few things, but he's done most of it himself. The principal at his middle school asked if they could display it at the high school to give the kids at the high school inspiration to build things. That's cool.:cool:

[Yama-Bro]

Looking good Yama-Bro! Putting the body and wheels on DEFINITELY gets you that much closer. My swaybars looked like yours and I didn't like the angle so I trimmed the spacers.

I don't know if it matters but I thought it looked better that way. Looking at it now though I realize I need to remove them again and powder coat them...

That looks a lot better. It looks more sturdy as well. Does that change the sway bar geometry enough to effect anything?

[Mark Eaton]

That looks a lot better. It looks more sturdy as well. Does that change the sway bar geometry enough to effect anything?

I have no idea, lol.

[Yama-Bro]

I have no idea, lol.

;) I can't see it making much difference. The rod ends appear to be lined up with the shock center line before you shortened the spacer. Maybe that's the design intent? But I doubt they'd stay perfectly aligned with the centerline of the shock thru all of the suspension travel. I think you'll be ok.

[BluePrintEngines]

Coming right along! that trunk mod is awesome.

[Higgybulin]

And here's the reason we didn't get much done...the boys wanted to put the body on the car. Since it was the year anniversary of the delivery (on Labor day last year), it sounded like a good idea to me too.

We dropped in the seats, steering wheel, doors, lowered it to the ground. We even had the shifter out for awhile.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1896/30591062878_103f35e050_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1890/43551231465_27ee58cd8c_b.jpg

Here they are testing the acceleration. We spent several hours making car noises and admiring it. :cool:
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1862/43551232835_bce7979127_b.jpg

I had to get a shot of it next to my son's rat rod motor bike...
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1848/44460620361_ed19769a7d_b.jpg

He's been mowing yards all summer to pay for parts to build this. I think it turned out really cool.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1843/29522827347_48599ce77e_b.jpg
Tell your boy his bike is BITC*IN!!!! I'm 50 and would tool around the neighborhood on that!!
Higgy

[edwardb]

This is what it looks like assembled. The brake lines seem kind of long to me. These are 18". I'm thinking of switching them out for some 16 inchers. What do you guys think? It seems like no matter which way I point them, they will rub on another component, whether it's the wheel, spring, or a-arm. I've also considered getting some sort of clamp to fasten the line to the a-arms. We used to have stuff like that back in my ATV riding days. That would keep the line from jiggling around.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1874/42651723840_70efba2285_b.jpg

Your flex line length is fine. Don't shorten it. Keep in mind (1) you're at the bottom of the suspension travel, and (2) those wheels have to turn lock-to-lock. Check and make sure it's clearing everything when pushed up at ride height at turning the wheel both ways. You may need to re-orient the angled fitting on the caliper slightly. But it should work fine with that length. I'd recommend against attaching it to the control arms. Just not needed and maybe create issues.

FWIW, how #8674 is routed and zero issues with a bunch of miles on it now:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/th_IMG_3699_zps3hl6618o.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3699_zps3hl6618o.jpg.html)


Looking good Yama-Bro! Putting the body and wheels on DEFINITELY gets you that much closer. My swaybars looked like yours and I didn't like the angle so I trimmed the spacers.

I don't know if it matters but I thought it looked better that way. Looking at it now though I realize I need to remove them again and powder coat them...

Same comment as above. Check the alignment at ride height. You will find the angle changes and the original length spacer may be closer than you think. Basically, you want it roughly straight at ride height, and then whatever angle it takes at up and down limits should be handled by the Heim joints.

[Vspeeds]

Here's the brake line mounting tab riveted to the frame with 3/16 rivets. I searched for two hours thru boxes and bags for another pair of these for the back. It seems as though FFR doesn't supply these. I'll have to get another pair.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1870/43742796924_8ac5494273_b.jpg

Looking good Yama-Bro

My kit only came with one pair also. I called FFR and they sent me another set

[Mark Reynolds]

Base kit does not come with brake hose to frame brackets because it assumes a donor rear end and brakes. Complete kit rear brakes adds the bracket. BTW the bracket is better installed horizontally, (rivet to the top surface of the 3/4" tube), so the brake hose enters from below and forms a "U" shape. This allows the hose to roll more and twist less like it likes to do as the suspension goes up and down as the spindle turns. Also keeps the hose from pointing at the tire and wheel. I recommend changing the orientation before you do the hard line plumbing.

[Yama-Bro]

Base kit does not come with brake hose to frame brackets because it assumes a donor rear end and brakes. Complete kit rear brakes adds the bracket. BTW the bracket is better installed horizontally, (rivet to the top surface of the 3/4" tube), so the brake hose enters from below and forms a "U" shape. This allows the hose to roll more and twist less like it likes to do as the suspension goes up and down as the spindle turns. Also keeps the hose from pointing at the tire and wheel. I recommend changing the orientation before you do the hard line plumbing.

Mark, that's some good advice. Since I already attached the front brackets, I may leave it as is, but I can get what you are saying to work in the back. So I'll use your advice back there for sure. Thanks!

[Yama-Bro]

Last weekend I had another distraction that took me away from the build. It was Factory Five related and in my garage, so I figure it's worth a post in my build thread. The company hot rod spent the weekend in my garage so I could put BPE tire stickers on it. They turned out good. The BPE stickers are probably more difficult to apply then typical tire stickers because each letter/line that is a different color is an individual piece of rubber. That and these stickers are a little shorter font then the ones on my car, which made it even more challenging. As you may have guessed, those pieces don't always like to stay where they are meant to be, so there is some wrangling to get them in the correct location. I'm getting better at these the more I do them and I had a friend aiding with alignment on these, which really helped.

As a bonus, I got to cruise around in the hot rod a bit. It was nice to see what driving a FFR hot rod is like. So far I've driven two FFR roadsters and a hot rod. I'm feeling blessed. The two roadsters were 3 link and the hot rod is IRS. The hot rod definitely rides smoother. It gets a lot of looks, thumbs up and waves, just like everyone reports when driving a roadster.

I always dreamed my garage would have this many cool rides sitting in it at once...
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1859/43756492995_c0b2cd72d0_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1879/42855710190_791c9dae83_b.jpg

This is a steel bodied hotrod. We are still in the planning stages on the paint color...
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1892/43756511125_7cc2ac4777_b.jpg

The powerplant in the hotrod is the BPE 306 with the Holly Sniper fuel injection and the TKO-600 transmission. This one is setup with AC. It doesn't have power steering.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1842/43756513825_6d9b9e1b3e_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1899/43756503595_a07637f233_b.jpg

[Yama-Bro]

Flexible brake lines...done...

Here are the rear brake flexible lines. Factory Five sent me a a second pair of brackets for the rear. I used a 45 degree adapter on the calipers and 18" lines. I deviated from the suggested frame mount location by putting the bracket on the bottom side of the angled tube. Doing it this way doesn't require the line to flex and twist as much when the suspension goes thru its paces (like Mark suggested above. Thanks Mark!). Plus the line completely clears the suspension and wheels. I feel like I achieved elegance on this one.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1928/30977190288_70784cd137_b.jpg

A view looking down from the top...
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1957/29913231267_b3af50871f_b.jpg

A view from the back...
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1941/29913232717_0a5fc50d75_b.jpg

I reworked the front brake lines. I wasn't happy with my previous attempt. I ended up buying some 14" lines and used straight adapters (vs the 18" lines and 45 degree adapters that were included with the brakes). These have decent clearance when the wheels are turned without having excessive brake line. This view is looking from behind the passenger side front.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1842/44849353991_4949792354_b.jpg

From the top looking down...
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1890/29913237687_66ec587976_b.jpg

This is the passenger side with the wheel turned fully to the left. I may have got by with couple inches less.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1924/44849355631_702b078da4_b.jpg

This is looking down from above with the wheel turned fully to the right. The line is close, but has clearance. It looks worse in this pic than it really is.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1952/29913236827_a51284bc77_b.jpg

PS, I used loc-tite blue on the adapter threads going into the calipers and nothing on the 3AN brake line threads.

[BluePrintEngines]

Last weekend I had another distraction that took me away from the build. It was Factory Five related and in my garage, so I figure it's worth a post in my build thread. The company hot rod spent the weekend in my garage so I could put BPE tire stickers on it. They turned out good. The BPE stickers are probably more difficult to apply then typical tire stickers because each letter/line that is a different color is an individual piece of rubber. That and these stickers are a little shorter font then the ones on my car, which made it even more challenging. As you may have guessed, those pieces don't always like to stay where they are meant to be, so there is some wrangling to get them in the correct location. I'm getting better at these the more I do them and I had a friend aiding with alignment on these, which really helped.

As a bonus, I got to cruise around in the hot rod a bit. It was nice to see what driving a FFR hot rod is like. So far I've driven two FFR roadsters and a hot rod. I'm feeling blessed. The two roadsters were 3 link and the hot rod is IRS. The hot rod definitely rides smoother. It gets a lot of looks, thumbs up and waves, just like everyone reports when driving a roadster.

I always dreamed my garage would have this many cool rides sitting in it at once...
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1859/43756492995_c0b2cd72d0_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1879/42855710190_791c9dae83_b.jpg

This is a steel bodied hotrod. We are still in the planning stages on the paint color...
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1892/43756511125_7cc2ac4777_b.jpg

The powerplant in the hotrod is the BPE 306 with the Holly Sniper fuel injection and the TKO-600 transmission. This one is setup with AC. It doesn't have power steering.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1842/43756513825_6d9b9e1b3e_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1899/43756503595_a07637f233_b.jpg

You'll have to post all those pictures over on this one!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?29525-New-BluePrint-Engines-33-Hotrod!&highlight=blueprint

[Yama-Bro]

I was pretty excited to get these parts in the mail. I ordered a pair of Girling reproduction brake reservoirs for an Austin Healey from Moss Motors in England. Since I'm going for a vintage vibe, I thought these would be perfect. There is a US version of Moss motors that carries the same part, but they had these on back order for several months. I bought the reservoir assemblies and the mounting clamps from Moss. I ordered a pair of 90° 4-AN to 1/4" barbed adaptors (p/n: 3488-04-90) from Pegasus Automotive in the states so I could connect the reservoirs to the hose that FFR supplies.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1976/43364842480_63e905e229_b.jpg

I had to make a bracket to hold the reservoirs to the frame. I started by making a prototype out of cardboard. This felt a little awkward, as it's the first time in years that I've created something that I didn't design with CAD beforehand. HAHA. I've used SolidWorks for all kinds of home projects, from furniture, to sheds, to ATV parts. I considered using CAD on this, but for some reason decided to just wing it the "old fashioned" way. Maybe I wanted to show my kids how to do it the manual way? I don't know, but we had good results.

Design notes based on others' posts on this forum: I measured back from the frame's radiator support tube 20", and then gave myself an extra 1" to have clearance for the hood support. I setup the reservoirs so the caps are a minimum of .25" under the top of the 3/4" frame tube. The edge of the caps are about 1" from the tube to avoid running into the body that overhangs the tube.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1926/45129796412_3f4c3288c2_b.jpg

I transferred the design onto a .125" thick sheet of aluminum. My son did the cutting and drilling.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1912/44267770635_6567f247c3_b.jpg

Here's the cut plate. We also made a support piece out of 1.50" x 1.50" x .125" thick alum angle. We cut one of the angle piece's legs down to be .75" long so it doesn't overhang the frame tube.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1956/44267789585_898b84a384_b.jpg

We threw a coat of paint on them, so they match the frame.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1913/44456483324_1cf6467db9_b.jpg

Here are a couple views of the mounting plate attached to the frame. We used 3/16 rivets to secure the parts...
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1930/43364921590_23843bc3aa_b.jpg
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1901/44268024385_bd3a4d3e5e_b.jpg

[cv2065]

Those will look awesome!!

[Yama-Bro]

After the mounting brackets were attached, we assembled the brake reservoirs and attached them...
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1958/43365050610_c888d53682_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1906/45178983551_0f3db42ea3_b.jpg

Backside of the bracket...
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1965/45178993001_941613d2b4_b.jpg

[cgundermann]

Looks outstanding!

Chris

[Straversi]

Nicely done x 2. Love the look of those vintage cans. Also love to see a kid with a jig saw and not a game controller in his hand.
-Steve

[cv2065]

Which fittings did you use for the bottom of those cans?

[Yama-Bro]

Which fittings did you use for the bottom of those cans?

They are 3488-04-90, SKU: 55579

[Yama-Bro]

Those will look awesome!!


Looks outstanding!

Chris


Nicely done x 2. Love the look of those vintage cans. Also love to see a kid with a jig saw and not a game controller in his hand.
-Steve

Thanks guys!

[Dagwoods]

Build looking great. You mentioned that you positioned your bracket for the brake reservoirs 20" back from radiator support bar. Is that from the front edge of your bracket? I am looking to hang my reservoirs this weekend and would appreciate any advice.

Thanks,

Andrew

[Yama-Bro]

Build looking great. You mentioned that you positioned your bracket for the brake reservoirs 20" back from radiator support bar. Is that from the front edge of your bracket? I am looking to hang my reservoirs this weekend and would appreciate any advice.

Thanks,

Andrew

Hi Andrew! My measurement was taken from the backside of the radiator support tube. I also added approx 1" just to be safe, so it is more like 21" from the back of the support tube.

[Yama-Bro]

I connected the brake hoses to the reservoirs this week. We also got a good start on the hard brake lines, but you don't get to see pictures of those yet. :p

I started by drilling two holes in the front of the foot box for the hoses to pass thru. The 3/16" thick steel on the other side of the aluminum made it more difficult than it needed to be.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1904/45251623032_f9ec8f758f_h.jpg

I added grommets to the holes. I got the grommets from McMaster Carr. I had to order 50 for $17 shipped, so if anyone needs some, let me know. If you send me a few dollars to cover shipping, I'll send some grommets to you. They are .50" ID for a .25" thick panel. They are made to fit in a .81" hole. I had a hard time finding a .81 hole saw or drill bit, so I ended up drilling a .75" hole and enlarging it a bit with the die grinder.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1923/43485640510_881e757d68_h.jpg

Then I added the hoses to the grommets. I considered getting some black braided hose, because I don't like the way the red hoses look, but I figured these won't be super visible and I really should use some of the parts that came with the kit that I already paid for. :D
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1952/44388584025_97f84fa4c4_h.jpg

An overview of the connections. I tried to line up all the fasteners so they are accessible once the car is finished.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1919/43485641280_6c86f9aee8_h.jpg

[Scubasommer]

Looks awesome
Super clean with the grommets brother!!!!

[GoDadGo]

Yama-Yo-Bro,

If having a super cool, super bad Factory Five Hot Rod sitting as a stablemate to your build doesn't motivate you, then nothing will.

You're Getting There Brother So Wrench On, Wrench On!

Go-Dad / aka: Steve

[Yama-Bro]

Looks awesome
Super clean with the grommets brother!!!!


Yama-Yo-Bro,

If having a super cool, super bad Factory Five Hot Rod sitting as a stablemate to your build doesn't motivate you, then nothing will.

You're Getting There Brother So Wrench On, Wrench On!

Go-Dad / aka: Steve

HAHA, Thanks DUDES!

[Pat427]

Really like those old school looking cans.

[Yama-Bro]

He we go; the brake lines. This is one of the parts of the build I wasn't really looking forward to. I ended up enjoying it. Thanks to my friend, Nathan, for the help (and refreshments). We now have the hard brake lines, bent, flared, and installed. Neither one of us had bent brake lines in the past, so it was a fun learning experience. Nathan convinced me to cut and flare the lines to the proper length, instead of making the pre flared lines work. I'm glad he did, because I think the final product turned out better looking because of it. Our only hiccup was that we accidentally did single flares instead of double flares the first time around. Whoops. It was a relatively easy fix. The real test will come when we bleed the brakes and check for leaks. We used my Dad's old school flaring tool and tube benders. I also used several pieces of wire to plan the routing before bending any of the actual tubes. I went back and forth between ni-copp and steel tube. I settled on steel, mostly because I figured I had better use some of the parts I already paid for that came with the kit. That, and I think it'll work just fine. Actually, I anticipated screwing up a few times and figured I'd have to buy some extra lines anyways. Surprisingly, that didn't happen. We managed to make due using only the tubes supplied with the kit.

The boys trying out the tubing cutter. I didn't get a lot of help from the boys on this stage of the build. There was a lot of going back and forth and measuring and remeasuring. Not the type of thing that keeps kids interested. At least they got to mess around with the tools and some scrap tube.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1933/43791574450_591f7a3b9f_h.jpg
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1934/45558648642_17177565f3_h.jpg

Here's the tube that goes between the front left and the front right.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1922/45558649022_26b94f0619_h.jpg

This is showing the tubes coming from the master cylinders, inside the foot box. The master cylinder that is closest is for the front.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1923/31736958148_041bb9d6b9_h.jpg

Here's a shot of the tube just forward of the foot box running down to the front brake tee.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1910/45558651672_7d2123ca65_h.jpg

The tube for the rear brakes on it's way out of the foot box. (Edit: Check out the heat shield I built for this on Post #456)
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1946/45558651822_c8994cf692_h.jpg

The bend in the tube at the bottom of the foot box as it heads to the rear brakes. I cleco'ed all these in this section because I still need to be able to remove the floor pan.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1924/43791578950_bf15907e60_h.jpg

[Yama-Bro]

Hard brake lines continued...

The run for the rear brakes going along the bottom of the car. We had one connection in this run to join together the two long pieces of tubing.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1935/45609203261_8b3a92a88c_h.jpg

The rear brake line coming up from the frame and going to the rear tee.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1975/44884642294_833fd12123_h.jpg

The tee connection for the rear brakes (looking down thru the trunk floor).
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1978/44884643194_7458aa4942_h.jpg

The line going from the left rear to the right rear...
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1925/45558656382_db56126cd1_h.jpg

Overview of the line between the rear brakes. The line is attached to the frame in two places under the 45 degree angled tubes.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1939/44884644974_6ecdb60832_h.jpg

[BadAsp427]

All of your bends look really great! The only thing I would possibly reconsider is your rear brake line that you have going down in the front of the foot box. You’re going to have headers literally 1 inch away from that line. I actually did the same thing and just relocated my line to the inside of the foot box this last weekend. Might want to consider doing the same. But I really like your Bends you did a fantastic job on those... nice work

[Yama-Bro]

All of your bends look really great! The only thing I would possibly reconsider is your rear brake line that you have going down in the front of the foot box. You’re going to have headers literally 1 inch away from that line. I actually did the same thing and just relocated my line to the inside of the foot box this last weekend. Might want to consider doing the same. But I really like your Bends you did a fantastic job on those... nice work

Hmmm, yeah. I know what you are saying. I'm a little worried about the heat. The manual shows it routed on the outside, so I figured it would be ok (but maybe not?). I originally planned to run the line thru the footbox, but I couldn't figure out a good way to get it thru (at least where I wanted to run it). I even went as far as drilling a hole in the floor for the tube to pass thru. Do you have any pictures of how you routed yours around the accelerator pedal bracket and then up to the master cylinders?

[BadAsp427]

Basically I came out of the top of the MC and routed the hard line over the front inside corner of the footbox. Then straight down the wall past the go peddle and through a hole that is right in the corner of the 4" and 1.5" frame tubing. You can see in these two photos if you look close what I'm talking about... as it went down the wall past the gas peddle I had to bend it out and follow the shape of the 4" tube to keep it nice and tight. It does not look like I'll have any interference with the use of the gas peddle as it is actually behind (in front of) the peddle when I'm at full throttle. The Red arrows are pointing at the rear line from the MC out... Hope this gives you an idea. Also, the photo shows where the headers fall in relations to the foot box.

96675 96676 96677 96678

[Fixit]

X2 on above.

Here's a link to my (similar) solution (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27544-The-40-Watt-Garage-9365&p=334481&viewfull=1#post334481)

[broku518]

Hi Yama-bro. I ran my lines inside the first time. I felt like it would look cleaner, and when I bled my brake I had 3 leaks, one in DS area. It was a mess to clean up.
I also try to imagine the car fully assembled, that would drive my connection position and orientation. For easy access once the car is done. I am 1000 miles plus now, and it as a b*** to work on this thing! ;)

I have it just like yours now.

Now, every time I park in garage I look underneath the car for leaks. It would be easy to spot outside leak vs. interior leak, IMO.

But either way you run those make sure they don't leak :)

[Yama-Bro]

Thanks for the input guys. I'm trying to decide if I should change it or leave it.

Broku, Do you have an infrared temp gun? I'd be interested to know what the temp is on the brake line after a drive. Or possibly worse yet, let it sit and idle up to operating temp.

[broku518]

Thanks for the input guys. I'm trying to decide if I should change it or leave it.

Broku, Do you have an infrared temp gun? I'd be interested to know what the temp is on the brake line after a drive.

I don't. I ended up putting some heat shield tape in that area to cover the line.

[BadAsp427]

Hi Yama-bro. I ran my lines inside the first time. I felt like it would look cleaner, and when I bled my brake I had 3 leaks, one in DS area. It was a mess to clean up.
I also try to imagine the car fully assembled, that would drive my connection position and orientation. For easy access once the car is done. I am 1000 miles plus now, and it as a b*** to work on this thing! ;)

I have it just like yours now.

Now, every time I park in garage I look underneath the car for leaks. It would be easy to spot outside leak vs. interior leak, IMO.

But either way you run those make sure they don't leak :)

I agree, you would not want a leak anywhere, but especially on the inside.... But running it like this, the only place you could have a leak on the inside is the same place, at the MC. Short of cutting or braking the line on the inside, but then again it is actually protected more inside than outside.... I guess it really comes down to personal preference and the actual amount of heat they get from being an inch or so away from the exhaust... while your moving it may not be bad if there is air flow there. I can not tell you how much air flow would be there as I have no idea from any sort of personal experience at this point...

[cv2065]

I agree, you would not want a leak anywhere, but especially on the inside.... But running it like this, the only place you could have a leak on the inside is the same place, at the MC. Short of cutting or braking the line on the inside, but then again it is actually protected more inside than outside.... I guess it really comes down to personal preference and the actual amount of heat they get from being an inch or so away from the exhaust... while your moving it may not be bad if there is air flow there. I can not tell you how much air flow would be there as I have no idea from any sort of personal experience at this point...

Agree with Carl. I have mine run on the inside. If you run a straight line from the MC down through the panel and then down the 4" tube, you can have a union right there. That way any leaks that happen would typically happen outside the footbox, unless you have a breach in the line somehow, but that would be on the inside both ways.

[JoeAIII]

Boiling your brake fluid sucks. Do whatever you can to limit the heat the brake lines see.

[Yama-Bro]

I asked FFR about this. Since they have a lot of experience building these cars and driving them I thought I'd get their advice. Their rule of thumb is brake lines should be a minimum of 1.5" from coated/insulated headers and a minimum of 3.0" from uninsulated exhaust. The ceramic coated headers fall into the insulated category.

[BadAsp427]

Oh, I totally forgot to put this on here from the other day... after my 1st run, i put the laser on the front foot box cover and after only the 10-12 minutes of running at idle, the foot box was 250* at the point where I had my line originally running down that area and yours is at just about the same place. The header there is about 1.5-2" away...

Remember, this was sitting still, now air flow going past it... again, not sure how much you would get in that area behind the splash shield anyway...

[Yama-Bro]

Oh, I totally forgot to put this on here from the other day... after my 1st run, i put the laser on the front foot box cover and after only the 10-12 minutes of running at idle, the foot box was 250* at the point where I had my line originally running down that area and yours is at just about the same place. The header there is about 1.5-2" away...

Remember, this was sitting still, now air flow going past it... again, not sure how much you would get in that area behind the splash shield anyway...

Thanks! Excellent data!

[Yama-Bro]

I worked on the fuel system today. I installed the fuel pump and bent all the fuel lines. After a bunch of research, I determined that the fuel delivery system that came with the kit may not be adequate for the engine I'm planning to stuff between the frame rails (BPE 347, about 415 hp). So...time for an upgrade. I bought a Pro-M Racing fuel hanger, an Aeromotive Stealth 340 in tank pump, and moved up to 3/8 fuel line. This combo should be good for 600hp, which is way more than I plan to have.

The Pro-M racing hanger has a 3/8 inlet and outlet, unlike the 5/16" outlet and dinky 1/4" return on the kit supplied part. Because of the bigger tubes, you have to enlarge the opening in the tank to get the hanger in. I used a die grinder to do do the cutting. I cleaned the tank out with a magnet and vacuum after the grinding was finished. Make sure not to cut into the groove for the o-ring.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4892/45969993932_75da5bd217_h.jpg

Here are all the parts I used. Pro-M Racing supplied everything to the left of the yellow butt connectors and Aeromotive supplied everything to the right. The butt connectors are water and fuel resistant. They came from Delcity.com, part number 922229. The tech guy from Aeromotive suggested using these ...Click Here (https://www.amazon.com/Sopoby-Connectors-Electrical-Waterproof-Automotive/dp/B01DPS8DPM/ref=pd_sbs_328_2/134-1239330-2827460?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01DPS8DPM&pd_rd_r=cf43192e-e76e-11e8-a7f6-2b84c669aa9c&pd_rd_w=mhlh2&pd_rd_wg=Btpa7&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=7d5d9c3c-5e01-44ac-97fd-261afd40b865&pf_rd_r=J9TTWKX3JRFQC9BMFECK&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=J9TTWKX3JRFQC9BMFECK) . I had already ordered the delcity connectors, otherwise I may have ordered the Amazon ones instead. I'm sure it wouldv'e been cheaper. The tech guy said that's all he uses now-a-days. The Pro-M hanger came with a offset pickup screen, I used that instead of the centered screen that came with the pump. It seemed to line up with the box shaped baffle that's welded inside the tank. I really liked the connectors on the Aeromotive pump, but they are just so huge I didn't think they'd fit in the hanger, so I cut them off and put the butt connectors on the wires. The whole electrical wiring in a fuel tank thing makes me a little nervous. We'll find out if I did it right during the first start.:eek:
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4830/45295603234_73f2c4e049_h.jpg

The assembled hanger...
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4824/45969991672_16ac436138_h.jpg

The whole assemble in the tank. Don't forget to mark the in and out! A part I used, but it's not shown in the pictures above is the o-ring. The Pro-M hanger came with two orings with a rectangular cross section. I opted to use the standard round cross section o-ring that came with the kit. The rectangular o-rings go against everything I know about sealing. It's like putting a square peg in a round hole. :D
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4814/45295601334_7af3d63564_h.jpg

[Yama-Bro]

I took advantage of the nice weather today and rolled the body out of the garage so I could get under the frame and work on the fuel lines. I did some bending and tweaking to the lines that I had started bending a few weeks ago. Before it got cold again, I managed to get them mostly attached them to the frame.

Here are the supply and return lines in the engine compartment. I went with Poly Armour 3/8 steel lines. I used four 40" pieces, part number PA-640
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4890/46297865822_4ede64da44_h.jpg

The two lines running under the passenger side along the main frame rail. This is a picture from the back wheel looking forward. I didn't really want to, but I put a union in both lines down here. Hopefully it doesn't come back to haunt me later in the form of leaks. If it does, at least it's easy to get to. The unions are generic 5/8-18 inverted flare to 5/8-18 inverted flare that I picked up at my local Napa.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7849/32857855748_f5a0805ccd_h.jpg

Here are the lines as they reach the wheel well and go over the axle.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7884/32857855248_4172dd6352_h.jpg

A view of the ends of the lines looking from the rear axle forward. From here I'll connect flexible lines to the filter and the tank.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7906/46008260694_371365cd73_h.jpg

[Papa]

Very nicely done, Frank.

[Fixit]

2x... Very nice & clean install!

[PeteMeindl]

Man, looks good, Yama-Bro! Great pictures, as always - makes it easy to follow what's going on!

[cv2065]

Looks good! I wouldn't hassle over the unions..you're good to go!

[Yama-Bro]

Thanks guys!


Very nicely done, Frank.


2x... Very nice & clean install!


Looks good! I wouldn't hassle over the unions..you're good to go!


Man, looks good, Yama-Bro! Great pictures, as always - makes it easy to follow what's going on!

Pete, I noticed the big clear pictures from multiple angles is really handy when I look at other peoples' build threads, so I'm hoping mine will help someone out as well.

[PeteMeindl]

Thanks guys!

Pete, I noticed the big clear pictures from multiple angles is really handy when I look at other peoples' build threads, so I'm hoping mine will help someone out as well.

Yeah, they help me out a TON! I can tell you that i have the factory five manual open AND your thread open whenever we work on the car. Thank you!

[BluePrintEngines]

Lookin good!!!!!!

[Yama-Bro]

Yeah, they help me out a TON! I can tell you that i have the factory five manual open AND your thread open whenever we work on the car. Thank you!

Thanks man! That's awesome! I'm really glad to give back to the forum!

[Yama-Bro]

Here's my fuel filter install. I shamelessly copied Papa's solution, because it's damn near perfect. Thanks Papa ;). I bought a larger OD filter than Papa, so I bought a bigger sized roll bar bracket (same brand). I'm using a billet Summit 10 micron filter, part number SUM-230123B, ...click here (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-230123b) and a GS Power 1.75" roll bar bracket from Amazon...click here (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015P169E4/ref=twister_B015R3QDEQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1). The filter fits in this bracket like it was made for it. It has a nice (vinyl?) sleeve inside the bracket that holds the filter secure.

I drilled three holes for 3/16" rivets in the bracket for mounting to the frame...
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4875/44531345340_33bb2880dd_h.jpg

Here's the bracket attached to the frame with the filter in it. Great fit. Don't forget to orient the filter for the proper direction of flow. This is a view looking down from the top. It's tough to tell in this picture, but I have the bracket mounted to the frame so that the filter sits as high in the frame as possible. Basically the flat side of the bracket that you'd normally mount to your object is facing down and the opposite side (the surface that has the words, in the pic above) is up against the frame with the round part of the bracket overhanging the side of the frame tubing. This allows the filter to be up and out of the way, but I still have easy access to the bolt and to remove the filter when needed.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4886/32476246368_514b9ffce9_h.jpg

[Papa]

Looks great, Frank. There's no shame in using anything shared on this forum. That's what it's all about!

Dave

[Joe390]

Looking Good..!!

[Yama-Bro]

And the fuel lines are finally done. I completed the install of the flexible lines last night...

When I read the description of the Fragola push lock hose and fittings I got the impression you can simply assemble them by hand. Well, I must be weak because it wasn't happening for me. Of course, there's a $300 tool you can buy to put them together, but I didn't think it was justifiable for a few little hoses, so I decided to figure out another way to do it. I went through about three variations of homemade fixtures before I ended up with this setup. I also used a spray lube, some heat, and my hydraulic press and they went together without a complaint.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4878/32857875748_bd752657b8_h.jpg

Here are the completed hoses and the stuff I used to assemble them. I used an extra adaptor fitting that I had laying around to keep from scratching the one that was going on the hose.
The parts I used are:
Fragola hose (15ft, plenty for the front too), p/n: 815006
Fragola straight push lock fittings (6): 200106-BL
Russell 6AN to inverted flare adaptor fitting: 640610

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7826/46732941081_1e0a083f53_h.jpg

Here are the hoses going to the tank...
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4912/32857850628_580e64fc60_h.jpg

This is a shot of the hoses on their way to the filter and the hard lines. I attached a p-clamp to the filter bracket to route the return line thru.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7859/32857850218_297a11cff5_h.jpg

The connections to the filter and to the hard lines...
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4872/32857849688_c5c59e8cbb_h.jpg

Connections to the hard lines...
I used Russell adaptors (p/n: 640610) Click Here (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-640610) to go from the AN-6 on the flexible lines to the hard lines. I bought the wrong ones the first time, hence the reason I had an extra adaptors laying around.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7859/32857850218_297a11cff5_h.jpg

A lot of guys on here have mentioned it's two steps forward one step back a lot of times with these builds...well, that's just what I had with this portion of the build. I originally attached the hard lines to the frame with vinyl coated p-clamps. On a couple of the clamps the vinyl peeled off before I had them riveted to the frame. I wasn't thrilled about that, so I removed all the clamps and replaced them with p clamps with rubber sleeves. They turned out a lot nicer. I'm pretty happy with them now. I updated my pictures above to show the new rubber line p-clamps.

[SSNK4US]

Looks really good! Came out very nice and professional looking.

Kurt

[Higgybulin]

Where's the updates?!!!

[Yama-Bro]

Hey hey. Thanks for checking on me. ;) I don't have any updates. LOL. I've been slacking for the last month and a half. It's been really cold here in Nebraska. My little garage heater can get the air temp down to a comfortable level after running for a few hours, but everything else is still cold (tools, floor, etc.). I just don't enjoy going out there when it's cold, so I decided to wait until it warms up. I guess I'm a fair weather builder. I'm sure it's not as bad as what you are used to LOL. I had plans to build my engine during February and March at work, but I've had a change in direction concerning the engine. It's going to delay my build quite a bit, but I think it'll be well worth it. To keep myself busy I've been remodeling my wife's kitchen, which is kinda payment for letting me get the car in the first place (time to pay the piper). I also got a screaming deal on a high end 1/24 scale slot car set, so the boys and I have been having fun with that. With all that being said, I am jonesin to get out and work on the car.

[Higgybulin]

"My wife's kitchen" !!! Lol, I love it! My shop definitly has a big heater and lots of installation! I also took the leap and my completion date at FF is March 30th. I'll be picking it up myself and then working on catching you!!! Probably good your giving the child labour a break anyways, sounds like good times!

[SSNK4US]

Did somebody say slot cars? Lol They’ve come a long way from my 60’s and 70’s as a kid...,

Kurt

https://youtu.be/GtwkRd6zHwg

[Yama-Bro]

Did somebody say slot cars? Lol They’ve come a long way from my 60’s and 70’s as a kid...,

Kurt

https://youtu.be/GtwkRd6zHwg

You aren't joking about them coming a long ways! When I was a kid, I remember playing with the analog set my Dad still had from when he was a kid. It was pretty basic and got boring after awhile. The one we got is a Carrera Digital 124 set. It has lane changing, big cars, wireless controllers, pit stops, adjustable brakes/throttle/fuel levels, allows several cars per track (even on the same lane), ghost cars, and lap timing. I even have an app that controls the whole thing from my phone. You can setup races and even simulate weather with it. LOL. I cast that from my phone to my projector and show the current race standings on the wall. It's really fun. I had a guys night at my house a few weeks back. Basically, a bunch of friends came over for adult beverages. When I told them about it, they were a little apprehensive about "playing" with slot cars at first, but once I showed them a lap with my vette drifting around corners and the lap tracking software, they were hooked. We raced for 3 hours. LOL. A couple of those guys are looking to get their own tracks. I'm planning to build my own custom slot car with a Cobra body next.

[Yama-Bro]

"My wife's kitchen" !!! Lol, I love it! My shop definitly has a big heater and lots of installation! I also took the leap and my completion date at FF is March 30th. I'll be picking it up myself and then working on catching you!!! Probably good your giving the child labour a break anyways, sounds like good times!

Yeah, insulation really helps. LOL The the exterior walls and ceiling of my garage aren't insulated. So that doesn't make it any better. I need to do that someday too. Congrats on your order! I'll be taking hints from your build thread before I know it. Haha!

[Yama-Bro]

Woohoo, I finally got back to working on the Cobra this weekend. It felt great to make some progress. I took a break because it was bone chilling cold here in Nebraska and we were giving the kitchen a facelift...and I may have been racing slot cars inside where it was warm :rolleyes:. Well, the weather finally turned and the kitchen is almost done, so we're back at it.

I recruited Cody for some brake bleeding. First we bench bled the master cylinders in the car. Next we bled the rear brakes then the front. Here's Cody doing the pumping. We had a sizable leak where the blue paper towel is, right above the steering linkage. I loosened and re tightened the fitting once and got the leak down to a minuscule seep. I'll work on this more in the coming days. Worst case, we'll need to redo the flare or possibly the whole tube.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7899/40494813963_d73d058d56_h.jpg

I decided to use Dot 3&4 brake fluid. We tried using the harbor freight pneumatic bleeder, unfortunately, it doesn't seem to work. We went thru several cycles of my air compressor refilling before I gave up on it. Bummer. So we defaulted to the old school pumping of the brakes, which worked great. I used this little tool that I had from my ATV days (see the small silver cylinder in the picture). It attaches to the bleeder valve with clear hoses and only allows the fluid and air to flow one direction. It really helps keep the air out.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7844/40494813873_3caf8918ed_h.jpg

After we did a couple stops in the garage, we sent it down the driveway for a brake check. They work! Click the picture to see the video.
https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/40494815653_aceb08d277_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/24GovSM)

[broku518]

Hello sir, your braking skills are impressive!

I am thinking about checking my brakes again, it feels bit spongy. Can you please elaborate on...."I used this little tool that I had from my ATV days (see the small silver cylinder in the picture). It attaches to the bleeder valve with clear hoses and only allows the fluid and air to flow one direction. It really helps keep the air out."

I will be pumping them as well, just not sure that little thingamagic is :)

[Boydster]

Its a 1-way check valve. Thats how I bleed brakes by myself.

[broku518]

Its a 1-way check valve. Thats how I bleed brakes by myself.

Oh, got it! I used some empty bottles filled with dot fluid. The house would be submerged, so I can see the air bubbles. It was kinda redneck style bleeding, but I will invest in this gadget to make it more professional :)

[Yama-Bro]

Hello sir, your braking skills are impressive!

I am thinking about checking my brakes again, it feels bit spongy. Can you please elaborate on...."I used this little tool that I had from my ATV days (see the small silver cylinder in the picture). It attaches to the bleeder valve with clear hoses and only allows the fluid and air to flow one direction. It really helps keep the air out."

I will be pumping them as well, just not sure that little thingamagic is :)

Thanks! I haven't done brake bleeding on a car for a long long time.

After I went back and read my post I realized my description of the tool was pretty vague. Sorry about that. LOL. Thanks for covering for me Boyd!



Oh, got it! I used some empty bottles filled with dot fluid. The house would be submerged, so I can see the air bubbles. It was kinda redneck style bleeding, but I will invest in this gadget to make it more professional :)

This is the one I have...
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/tusk-hydraulic-brake-bleeder-p

I think this is something similar from Summit for less money...
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-w170c?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-performance-tool&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI58_J7_Wd4QIVRNbACh1rkQE4EAQYBCAB EgKVqPD_BwE

[Yama-Bro]

I conquered my leak. I tried loosening and re-tightening several times. It didn't help. So I took off the whole line, cut off the leaky flare, and then re-flared the end. I put it back together. This weekend my friend Clint was over so I had him help me bleed them. There were no leaks.:cool: I guess that's the hazards of using a cheap flaring tool. In my mind, one leaky flare out of all of them we did isn't bad at all. Next up...wiring harness. If everything goes as planned I'll have most of the day Friday to work on it.

[WIS89]

Frank-

Your brakes looked good in the video. I have to say though, your engine is crazy quiet!! Is it a hybrid? ;-o)

Good luck on the electrical. That part has slowed me down quite a bit. Let us know how it goes.

Regards,

Steve

[Yama-Bro]

Frank-

Your brakes looked good in the video. I have to say though, your engine is crazy quiet!! Is it a hybrid? ;-o)

Good luck on the electrical. That part has slowed me down quite a bit. Let us know how it goes.

Regards,

Steve

Haha, it's just a stealth exhaust system ;).

I did record another video where the kids were pushing while I was sitting in the car steering it down our street. I thought it would be funny to add some engine sounds to that one. Unfortunately, there wasn't enough daylight and the video quality didn't come out good. Maybe next time.

[Papa]

Looking good, Frank! I sent you a PM.

Dave

[Yama-Bro]

Good Friday was a beautiful day and I spent almost all of it out in the garage. We focused on loosely installing the wiring harness. I'll have to go back and put p-clamps on the frame to secure the harness, but we got the whole thing in place and temporarily held on by wire ties.

We drilled 1.25" holes in the fire wall per the instructions. I was a little confused by the instructions. I wasn't sure if I need two or three holes. I have a feeling I'm going to need to go back and drill a third.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/40703384723_1eaab5512c_h.jpg

Wyatt helped me assemble The fuse panel...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/46945666994_236e6df5d2_h.jpg

We got it into the frame and realized that FFR forgot to bend the tab on the fuse panel bracket that attaches to the 2 x 2" frame tube. Not a biggie. We stuck it in the vice and used a 2 x 4 to bend the part. The fuse panel bracket is pretty flimsy once attached to the frame. I've seen others make brackets that attach it to the frame on the unsupported end. I think I'll be doing the same on mine. You can also see where we attached the ground, just to the right of the fuse panel in this picture. I figured it would be easy access here if I ever need to do some cleaning or maintenance to it.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/46754044105_fd827c82fc_h.jpg

About the time Wyatt was loosing interest, my friend Lance came over and gave me a hand. We laid out the main harness...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/46945721264_31d0eee7db_h.jpg

And connected that to the front harness, which takes care of connections to the lights, turn signals, horn, and radiator fan...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/46754113935_9412eb35f3_h.jpg

The main harness comes around behind the dash for all kinds of connections, like the heater, windshield wipers, gages, controls, etc...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/46754092805_af13a8d12d_h.jpg

[Yama-Bro]

We plugged the rear harness into the main harness and ran it thru the transmission tunnel to the back of the car...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/33792302678_8fdd417091_h.jpg

And here is the rear harness into the rear. It goes to the taillights, fuel tank and license plate lights. I was pleasantly surprised to see the harness plug right into my Pro-M fuel pump hanger.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/40703405033_822e782364_h.jpg

After that I decided to get permanent on the fire wall, so we gave it the brushed effect and a coat of shark hide and slapped it in place.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/46754122715_5c85cf8b37_h.jpg

Wyatt jumped right on rivet duty...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/40703553063_693852d9bf_h.jpg

Here's the brushed panel attached to the frame...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/33792365018_048b7e02c7_h.jpg

I was really impressed with this harness. It's very well labeled and thought out. It went in easy. No complaints at all.

[Yama-Bro]

This weekend I planned to start on my dash, but I realized I can't figure out my glove box until the heater is in place. So I installed the heater. While I was at it, I decided to permanently attach the passenger side foot box and upper forward transmission cover to the frame...

Here's the heater in the firewall. I'm putting a couple extra pictures up for this because, before I ordered my kit, this was something I couldn't wrap my head around how it went to together. So I hope this will help someone...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47679765982_0449bf7558_h.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47679765922_35c730429c_h.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/32789475387_48bb7f2064_h.jpg

Here's a shot from the side. The tube directly behind the heater is what the dash mounts to. The FFR heater and glove box don't play well together, because they share the same space. I'm planning to do like some others have done and make a shallow glove box that'll work with the heater.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47732907871_8d005f6c8e_h.jpg

Here are my brushed passenger footbox panels. They are looking pretty good, if I do so so myself.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/46816297145_16cbd7064d_h.jpg

I didn't permanently install my outer panel, so I have access for carpet and anything else I may need to get in there for.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47732908731_cc7a59beac_h.jpg

[Yama-Bro]

Dash time! I took Friday off and spent the whole day laying out the dash. I didn't get anything attached to the car permanently, but it answered a lot of burning questions I had about the dash and all the things going on with it. I spent a lot of time just thinking about how this is going to function when I'm driving it and also trying to get the look just right.

I took the hard road for the dash. Rather than going with Factory Five's premade dash, I wanted to replicate a competition style gauge layout from an original car, so I'm starting with a blank dash. Here, I'm laying out the gauges, switches, knobs, and glove box where I think they should be. You can see I have some inspiration and some dimensions to start with. I'm planning to design my own glove box and door to go along with this dash. All the measuring and drawing with rulers took me back to my early board drafting roots. Pretty fun. When's the last time you used a drafting compass?
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/32878554307_909d45de87_h.jpg

After I got everything marked up, I placed the dash in the car. I'm checking for line of sight and access to everything. I want it to look like a vintage lay out, but also want it to be intuitive. I made a few personal changes.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/32878554237_595c2acace_h.jpg

I put the seat in with spacers to simulate the seat sliders I'm going to add later...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/40855923763_7b09ef32cd_h.jpg

Here's basically what it will look like from the driver's seat for me. I'm pretty happy with this. Do you guys see any issues in the layout?
-I'm going to put the turn signal switch to the left of the steering wheel under the water temp gauge. You can just see it's markings thru the spoke of the steering wheel. I'm going to mount it horizontally so the switch goes left or right to coincide with the direction I want to turn.
-The key switch will be to the left of the high beam switch, which is left of the speedo.
-The horn will be directly above the key switch. It will be easy and quick to reach from the steering wheel.
-Right of the speedo, bottom row, is head light pull, and heater pull
-Right of the speedo, top row, is hazard switch and the wiper switch. I'm hoping to find a easy replacement to make the wiper switch a vintage looking knob.
-Above the high beam switch is the manual fan override switch.
-I'm planning on having at least one indicator light for the fan. Otherwise I'm going to rely on the LEDs in the speedo for turn and bright indicators.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47822348841_d05cc2dbaf_h.jpg

This is what I am trying to duplicate. This technically this isn't an original Cobra, but it's got the look I'm after...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47768728762_263cee9b07_h.jpg

[Fixit]

Deja-Vu... (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27544-The-40-Watt-Garage-9365-Backup-Reverse-Lamp&p=344109&viewfull=1#post344109)

(PM me if you want a dimensioned pdf of my dash... it'd be interesting to compare)

[Yama-Bro]

Fixit, We are definitely heading down the same path as far as the dash and glove box are concerned. I sent you a PM.

Here's the layout that I started with. I found this in a folder on my computer. I've been downloading build stuff for over a decade, otherwise I would've been scouring the net like you.:D. I have no idea where this file originated, so if anyone knows who made it originally, post up and give them some credit. Thanks!
The changes I made were mostly around the steering wheel:
-Moved the speedo to the left .75" and down about .375"
-Moved the oil pressure gauge to the left .375" (centered above the wheel)
-Moved the fan light to the left .1875"
-I moved hole for the keyswitch to the right and made it the hole for the turn signal switch.
-The rest of the changes were just rearranging switches and controls in the locations. They should all be explained above.
Also, just a warning to anyone using this...I haven't verified any of the hole sizes, so proceed with caution if you use the layout.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47832371811_3987bb3367_o.jpg

[Fixit]

The dimensioned (2nd pic) drawing is also one that I'd found, and was a base for starting from...

107079

The dimensions didn't convert too well from pdf to png, but they're readable.

[Yama-Bro]

Mail call!...special delivery from across the pond...reproductions of the Lucas knobs that were in some of the original Cobras. I've found that "working on the car" doesn't always mean I'll be turning a wrench in the garage. Sometimes "working on the car" is in the form of scouring the internet for hard to find parts. I had to do some digging to find these. I'm excited that I got them! I think they are going to make my dash look just the way I want it.

I remember reading a post once talking about how to keep the build moving along a a good steady pace. I think it was EdwardB . The post said something along the order of; to keep the build moving along at a decent pace you have to be one step ahead on parts ordering/sourcing so that when you get done with your current task, you already have the parts to start the next one. Definitely wise words. Well, I'm not doing good with that advice. HAHA. It seems like I've been thin on time since I started this project, but that's ok, I just keep reminding my self it's not a race. I keep inching forward. I'll worry about going fast when I'm done and driving the car.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47923949123_d7650984d6_h.jpg

[CobraTroy]

I have almost the same photo of my son riviting inside the engine bay! It's great seeing kids working along side on these projects.

[Yama-Bro]

I have almost the same photo of my son riviting inside the engine bay! It's great seeing kids working along side on these projects.

I agree. I love it when they are out there helping. Sometimes they loose interest or get distracted, but I'm just glad when they are there.

[Radman73]

Mail call!...special delivery from across the pond...reproductions of the Lucas knobs that were in some of the original Cobras. I've found that "working on the car" doesn't always mean I'll be turning a wrench in the garage. Sometimes "working on the car" is in the form of scouring the internet for hard to find parts. I had to do some digging to find these. I'm excited that I got them! I think they are going to make my dash look just the way I want it.

I remember reading a post once talking about how to keep the build moving along a a good steady pace. I think it was EdwardB . The post said something along the order of; to keep the build moving along at a decent pace you have to be one step ahead on parts ordering/sourcing so that when you get done with your current task, you already have the parts to start the next one. Definitely wise words. Well, I'm not doing good with that advice. HAHA. It seems like I've been thin on time since I started this project, but that's ok, I just keep reminding my self it's not a race. I keep inching forward. I'll worry about going fast when I'm done and driving the car.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47923949123_d7650984d6_h.jpg

Source for these please?

[Yama-Bro]

Yeah, no problem. The short version of the story...I got them from Ashley Hinton in the UK via US eBay... https://www.mg-cars.org.uk/ah/

The long version of the story...I originally found them on the UK eBay site (not the US version). They were under three separate listings. I didn't think I could log onto eBay UK with my eBay US account, so I read the listing closely and noticed the sellers contact info in the description. I tried contacting them thru their email and thru eBay UK, but got no response. Determined to get the knobs, I tried logging onto the UK eBay site using my eBay US log in info. Surprise! It worked. I added the knobs to the cart, but decided to wait a couple days to see if I would get a response to the previously sent messages. I never did get a response, but the next time I was on the US eBay site, I noticed those items in my recently browsed history. Weird. I clicked on them and noticed those 3 listings were now on eBay US. I don't know if Ashley Hinton added them on the US site because of my messages or eBay did it automatically. I didn't really need to know. I bought them on eBay US and had them in my hands in about 4 days. The only reason I'm posting the long version is because you may have to go thru similar steps to get the knobs as I did and the backstory may help.

They cost me about $165 with shipping. A little steep, but I really wanted them to complete the look of my dash.

On a side note. Ashley Hinton also has the original style foot box vent butterflies for about 70 British pounds. Even with the conversion rate that's about a third of the cost of the ones on Cobra restorers.

[Yama-Bro]

I cut some holes in the dash this weekend...

I picked up one of the General Tools circle cutters off Amazon. It worked great for cutting the bigger holes. To get it set to the correct diameter, I measured from the outside edge of the cutter to the outside edge of the drill bit with my digital calipers. I made that distance equal to the radius (half the diameter)+ .125" (half the drill bit). Like others have posted elsewhere on this site, make sure to put a flat chunk of wood underneath to make the panel stay flat and cut evenly. It would also help to clamp the panel to that board for the same reason. And...definitely make some test cuts to get familiar with it. I did find it a bit unnerving cutting into my new dash on the first "real" cut.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48043078103_467ff6ad70_h.jpg

This is something I haven't seen anyone else on this site do, so I thought I post it up. Most everyone hides the light dimmer knob/switch out of sight. Since I found the vintage knobs, one of which is a dimmer, I decided to put it right out there on the dash for the whole world to see. I just drilled a hole for the switch and another to allow the clocking tab to pass thru the panel and keep the switch from rotating.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48043138627_529c3a5938_h.jpg

Yes, I know the small hole for the locating tab will show up under the vinyl dash covering, but I figure it'll be in an inconspicuous location and will be barely noticeable. I may put a slightly over sized washer under the nut to cover this up.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48043078588_3f29f09c4f_h.jpg

And here it is with knob sitting in place. I need to get some hex material to fill the hole in the knob in and then machine it so the knob fits the switch and is functional.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48043050021_d73c1f61c1_h.jpg

Wyatt helped populate the dash with components...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48043141467_ea1ce10172_h.jpg

The dash in the car. I still need to do the hole for the keyswitch, heater controls, and windshield wiper switch. If anyone has suggestions on how they did the holes for the "D" shaped shaft controls, I'd be interested in hearing them.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48043051911_133112ea97_h.jpg

[Papa]

Great work, Frank! Nice to see your son still interested, too.

[Yama-Bro]

I managed to get a few hours in the garage this weekend to work on the Cobra. I figured out the general location for dash mounting screws and put three more holes in the dash panel; keyswitch, headlight switch, and heater control knob. All of these are holes that are either D shaped or have a keyway. I drilled the holes out with drill bits or a hole saw, then used needle files to finish out the details. Now I have a bunch stuff to order before I can go much farther on the dash...

Keyswitch hole. You can see the small keyway on the top of the hole. Just enough to keep the switch from rotating in the hole when you turn the key. I filed that out with needle files.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48117592656_43ac9ceb29_h.jpg

Head light hole. It has a key way similar to the key switch hole. I had to trim the tab on the head light switch so it sits flush with the face of the dash once it's inserted thru the dash. I used the Moto tool for that.
Heater hole. I drilled a undersized hole that was the same size as the radius of the flat on the heater control switch. I hogged out the rest of the hole with the Moto tool. Then finished it off with the needle files.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48117592596_33a7527c67_h.jpg

[Fixit]

Lookin' Good!!

[Yama-Bro]

I put quite a bit of thought into the fresh air pulls this weekend. I hope I didn't overlook something. I'm pretty happy with them so far...

I bought two cheap Dorman Choke cables from Summit for $5.99 each, p/n: 55196...Here (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-55196) I asked the Summit techs if they had any choke cables that have replaceable knobs. They said "no". So, I took a chance on these cheap cables, hoping there's a way to get my vintage knob on the shaft of the pull. After I got the cable I realized the knob is part of the rod that's attached to the cable, so I cut off the knob. It didn't affect the cable motion or it's attachment to the shaft, so I think It's going to work. I haven't attached my knob to the shaft yet, but I don't think it will be an issue...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48170593132_0ff8bf34f5_h.jpg

I took the other cable and came up with a place on the dash that'll work for the pull and knob. I tried to make sure they would clear the doors, not get caught by people getting in and out of the car (on either side) and make sure that it wouldn't interfere with the turn signal switch on the driver's side. The location I found is tight, but I think it'll meet all my criteria. The mock up positions of the dash and doors should be showing me a worst case scenario (I believe the dash to be too high and the doors are hanging to low), so hopefully once I's done I'll have this much clearance or more.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48170517981_fc2e9f1a30_h.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48170594027_0b20369a80_h.jpg

Here's the passenger side looking down from the top. The cables were 6 feet long. They were very tough to actuate when I took them out of the package. After straightening them out and cutting off 2-3', they operate very smoothly. I'm happy with these cheap cables.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48170597832_453a285c25_h.jpg

Here's the knob temporarily sitting on the shaft. This is the look I'm after...:cool:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48170523516_6b44089eb3_h.jpg

[Ducky2009]

I put quite a bit of thought into the fresh air pulls this weekend....

What are you using for the fresh air doors? Are you going to use fans too? I don't have air vents at this time, thinking about adding. Would like to find a Pull/fan switch combination.

[Ducky2009]

Fixit, We are definitely heading down the same path as far as the dash and glove box are concerned. I sent you a PM.

Here's the layout that I started with. I found this in a folder on my computer. I've been downloading build stuff for over a decade, otherwise I would've been scouring the net like you.:D. I have no idea where this file originated, so if anyone knows who made it originally, post up and give them some credit. Thanks!
The changes I made were mostly around the steering wheel:
-Moved the speedo to the left .75" and down about .375"
-Moved the oil pressure gauge to the left .375" (centered above the wheel)
-Moved the fan light to the left .1875"
-I moved hole for the keyswitch to the right and made it the hole for the turn signal switch.
-The rest of the changes were just rearranging switches and controls in the locations. They should all be explained above.
Also, just a warning to anyone using this...I haven't verified any of the hole sizes, so proceed with caution if you use the layout.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47832371811_3987bb3367_o.jpg

FFR says you can't have a heater and a glove box... occupies the same space. I pushed the heater 2 1/4" into the engine compartment and make my own glove box.
See my post #39. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?23523-Ducky2009-MK4-Build-9035&p=276292&viewfull=1#post276292

If you don't, the box will be only an inch or two deep. Just a suggestion.

[Yama-Bro]

What are you using for the fresh air doors? Are you going to use fans too? I don't have air vents at this time, thinking about adding. Would like to find a Pull/fan switch combination.

Looks like your PS pull is close to where your wiper motor will be mounted.

The place in the UK that I bought the knobs from, Ashley Hinton, also has reproduction vents. They are about $70 a piece. That's pretty reasonable compared to the $250 or so on CobraRestorers.com or **********. I am leaning towards going with those. If I don't, I'll make something. Originally I wasn't going to have fans, but I have been reading on the forum and I'm beginning to change my mind (kinda reminds me of how a few other unplanned upgrades took place LOL). I like the switch and the pull combined idea.

Thanks for the heads up on the wiper motor. I was thinking that the wiper would be located on the big panel of the firewall next to the heater, but I'll have to look at other's pictures again. Not a big deal either way, as the cables is flexible enough to snake where ever it needs to go. I just have it temporarily routed thru that area in the picture.

[Yama-Bro]

FFR says you can't have a heater and a glove box... occupies the same space. I pushed the heater 2 1/4" into the engine compartment and make my own glove box.
See my post #39. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?23523-Ducky2009-MK4-Build-9035&p=276292&viewfull=1#post276292

If you don't, the box will be only an inch or two deep. Just a suggestion.

Thanks, I was actually reading your build thread earlier today. =) I'm planning to make a shallow glove box to get away from the heater interference issue.

[Ducky2009]

The place in the UK that I bought the knobs from, Ashley Hinton, also has reproduction vents.....

Thanks for the heads up on the wiper motor. I was thinking that the wiper would be located on the big panel of the firewall next to the heater, but I'll have to look at other's pictures again. Not a big deal either way, as the cables is flexible enough to snake where ever it needs to go. I just have it temporarily routed thru that area in the picture.

Thanks for the vent info. I'll look them up.

OK, after looking, maybe my wiper motor is closer to the heater then I was remembering. (not as far to the PS as I thought).
109927

[Yama-Bro]

Thanks for the vent info. I'll look them up.

OK, after looking, maybe my wiper motor is closer to the heater then I was remembering. (not as far to the PS as I thought).
109927

I found the vendor on eBay UK and added their stuff to my cart. The next time I visited the eBay US site the same items were in my cart there as well, but in dollars instead of pounds. I tried messaging them and emailing them, but never got a response, however when I purchased the knobs, they were shipped promptly.

Good picture of the wiper and heater relationship. I should be able to run my cable to the left of the wiper motor in your picture.

[Yama-Bro]

I did a little more cutting on the dash yesterday. I saved the trickiest hole for last...the glove box opening. Thanks to my friend Lance for helping me with the big radius. I cut the radii with the circle cutter, cut between them with the jigsaw, then smoothed it all out with my DA sander. It turned out pretty nice. There a several small mounting holes left to drill, but I'll add those later as I figure out where they go. Now onto the glove box and door.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48204587506_48128da78d_h.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48204587531_3a74877d0c_h.jpg

[Ducky2009]

Frank, Just a suggestion for your GB door. Hopefully this will give you some ideas and you'll come up with something that suits you.

I made a door a hair smaller than the opening and one 1/8" per side larger (both from 3/32" alum). I used the larger one as the actual door, but with no padding. I made the "dash" padding around the opening the same size as the larger door, 1/8" larger that the opening. After wrapping the door in leather, I used the smaller/inner door to hold the leather in place. This design make my door stand out--- off the dash surface a little bit.

I c'sank the outer door hinge holes so the flat head bolts were flush with the face and used JB weld to secure them. Had to c'sink the inner door a little for the bolts too. Also added RTV to fill the allen wrench holes. Used JB weld to hold the doors together, besides the hinge bolts and latch. Polished the inside and sprayed with clear.

110128 110131 110132

[Yama-Bro]

Thanks for the ideas. I may end up doing the same thing. I like the idea of having the door sitting past the dash. It should add some depth to the dash.

[MSumners]

I did a little more cutting on the dash yesterday. I saved the trickiest hole for last...the glove box opening. Thanks to my friend Lance for helping me with the big radius. I cut the radii with the circle cutter, cut between them with the jigsaw, then smoothed it all out with my DA sander. It turned out pretty nice. There a several small mounting holes left to drill, but I'll add those later as I figure out where they go. Now onto the glove box and door.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48204587506_48128da78d_h.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48204587531_3a74877d0c_h.jpg

Nice work on the layout! I’ll be planning the dash work soon and following along.

[Yama-Bro]

I got a start on the 3D model of the glove box. I'm waiting for my hinges to figure out where they'll go, but here's a sneak peak...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48343514487_bdd061b803_b.jpg

[J Bell]

Fixit, We are definitely heading down the same path as far as the dash and glove box are concerned. I sent you a PM.

Here's the layout that I started with. I found this in a folder on my computer. I've been downloading build stuff for over a decade, otherwise I would've been scouring the net like you.:D. I have no idea where this file originated, so if anyone knows who made it originally, post up and give them some credit. Thanks!
The changes I made were mostly around the steering wheel:
-Moved the speedo to the left .75" and down about .375"
-Moved the oil pressure gauge to the left .375" (centered above the wheel)
-Moved the fan light to the left .1875"
-I moved hole for the keyswitch to the right and made it the hole for the turn signal switch.
-The rest of the changes were just rearranging switches and controls in the locations. They should all be explained above.
Also, just a warning to anyone using this...I haven't verified any of the hole sizes, so proceed with caution if you use the layout.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47832371811_3987bb3367_o.jpg

Yama Bro,

Could I get this cad file emailed to me so I cna play around with how I want my gauges? I have cad 2013 if you could save it in that format. jbellis300@yahoo.com

I'm digging your detail in work sir!

[Yama-Bro]

Hi J Bell, That particular picture is someone else's layout I found online a long time ago. I don't have the dash completely done in CAD yet, although I'm working on it.

[Yama-Bro]

I spent the day designing and 3D modeling the glove box. This ended up taking a lot more time than I expected. My goal was to have it ready for 3D printing by the end of the day and I made it. As everyone says...there's not much room for a glove box, when you have the heater in it's intended location. I stole ideas from a lot of other build threads, so if you recognize something...thanks! Check out the pictures and let me know what you think...

Here's a shot with the door closed. I intended to use the VW latch. Unfortunately, it's too deep to work, so I switched to a shallower cam latch. I'll get one of the stainless cabinet pulls to go in this. If any one wants the VW latch, let me know, we can work out a deal...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48441463187_e34eb890bf_b.jpg

Here's with the door open. I plan to put a small cable or wire to keep the door from opening past 90 degrees. The hole on the inside left side of the glove box is for the attachment of that feature.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48441463182_760f83cceb_b.jpg

Here's the glove box by itself. The notches in the bottom are clearance for the hinges. The pockets around the mounting holes will be clearance for the nuts that lock the screws that go thru the dash panel itself. The large cut out on the top left, is for clearance to my dash mounting brackets.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48441311661_12738b91d6_b.jpg

Here's a picture from the back of the glove box. You can see the groove in the top. That's where the pawl of the lock will travel thru. I'll have an adjustable metal strike plate screwed to the plastic that is accessible from the inside.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48441311651_76612a7f64_b.jpg

This is a section view showing the depth of the box and how close it is to the heater. My glove box ended up being about .75" deep at the top and 1.25" deep at the bottom. It's so small I was really questioning if I should have just made a faux glove box door and called it good. LOL
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48441463132_35ab7de4f6_z.jpg

[Straversi]

I'm still amazed by 3-D printing. Part science, part voodoo.

Very cool work Yama. Look forward to seeing the completed assembly.

-Steve

[BadAsp427]

That is just about exactly what I have... Just deep enough to hold your insurance and registration papers... Here is my Glove Box Mod (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?29472-Carl-s-20th-Anniversary-8690-Gel-Coat-Driver-7000-miles-and-having-a-blast&p=340157&viewfull=1#post340157)

[Fixit]

Very cool!!
Not to stir the pot, but the last 3 or so inches of the area toward the PS garners some depth. I put a USB charger socket here... you may want to consider.
111767 111768

[Yama-Bro]

I'm still amazed by 3-D printing. Part science, part voodoo.

Very cool work Yama. Look forward to seeing the completed assembly.

-Steve

Thanks Steve! I've been working around 3D printing for a long time and it was magical for me as well for quite a while. There were two events that made it loose it's magic for me. One was when I had to spend a whole day repairing a 3D printer that had a major failure. I really got to understand the inner workings of it. The second event was when my son bought his own printer and we had to build the whole thing from a box of parts with horrible instructions. LOL. I still think 3D printing is super cool and it's an extremely handy tool for prototyping and manufacturing parts. I'll try to get a video of the glove box printing in my son's printer and post it on here. It's a open air printer, so it's easy to see what is going on with it.


That is just about exactly what I have... Just deep enough to hold your insurance and registration papers... Here is my Glove Box Mod (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?29472-Carl-s-20th-Anniversary-8690-Gel-Coat-Driver-7000-miles-and-having-a-blast&p=340157&viewfull=1#post340157)

Yep, I looked at your build thread several times while coming up with ideas for mine. Thanks! In fact I studied and talked to so many people about the glove box and related parts that I've gotten confused on who did what. haha.


Very cool!!
Not to stir the pot, but the last 3 or so inches of the area toward the PS garners some depth. I put a USB charger socket here... you may want to consider.
111767 111768

Thanks Fix it! I studied your build thread as well when I was coming up with ideas. I considered doing the bump out like you did, but thought I'd keep it simple for my son's 3D printer. I really like what you did though. Do you show what you did with your glove box door in your build thread? It seems like I couldn't find that in yours.

[Yama-Bro]

Here's a video of the 3D printer in action, printing the first half of the glovebox. Click on the picture to play the video. Let me know if you have any questions about 3D printing.

https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/48484638542_56dbed7ba5_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2gSqrRQ)

[BadAsp427]

Pretty cool.... :-)

[Yama-Bro]

I got the glove box assembled this weekend. It turned out nice. It's ready to be fit into the dash.

Here are the two halves of the glove box after coming off the 3D printer. My son, Cody, manually broke off all the support that he could. This is the side that didn't need the support...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48513988702_ae823ba6c7_h.jpg

Here's the backside of one of the parts. The waffle shaped stuff is the support material. There's quite a bit to sand off.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48513806936_ab6b290bd3_h.jpg

The part on the left is after one round of sanding. The dual action sander made quick work of the support...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48514076202_58daf78559_h.jpg

Here are both parts sanded and ready for gluing.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48514076232_7e17ef8a4b_h.jpg

I glued the parts together with super glue and then did more sanding by hand to blend them together perfectly. This is the business side of the box.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48513806711_e3a4dd77b4_h.jpg

And here's the back side, the side no one will ever see. I plan on hitting the whole glove box with a coat of paint before the final assembly to the dash.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48513989377_8593cc6ded_h.jpg

[Cruzzz]

Very nice! I’m sure there are a lot of people that would be interested in something like that.

[Boydster]

Very cool that you made your own glovebox. Nice work.

[Papa]

Nice work on the glove box. Pretty cool stuff!

Dave

[Fixit]

How many hours to print??

[Yama-Bro]

How many hours to print??

Each piece was about 20 hours.

[Yama-Bro]

Very nice! I’m sure there are a lot of people that would be interested in something like that.


Very cool that you made your own glovebox. Nice work.


Nice work on the glove box. Pretty cool stuff!

Dave

Thanks Guys!

[Yama-Bro]

Between running my oldest son around to activities and appointments, I managed to get some work done on my glove box door yesterday.

I transferred my design from CAD to the aluminum with 1 to 1 scale prints. The door is made up of two pieces. One slightly smaller than the opening and one slightly bigger.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48528421176_8fdacf9602_h.jpg

I drilled the holes into the hinges, then transferred those holes to the inner door and the dash. I used the location of the hinges that I came up with in CAD (also transferred over by the 1 to 1 prints).
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48528401996_79405ccf3b_h.jpg

We lined the glove box up with the opening in the dash and transferred the hole locations to the dash. Wyatt helped me install some temporary screws to put it all together.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48528562012_ba6ecd2ee3_h.jpg

The outer door will go over the top of this inner door and cover up the gap between the dash and the glove box door. All the screws will be flat heads and countersunk, so you won't see them from the outside when the door is closed. The dash and the outer door will be wrapped with black vinyl.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48528420386_31e945dd10_h.jpg

Here's the door opened and the glove box installed.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48528423641_fc9679fdab_h.jpg

[Yama-Bro]

I didn't have a lot of time to work on the FFR this weekend. I was busy doing yard work, fixing a dryer (fun) and a treadmill (double fun), and then spending some time with my wife's family. But...I received the rest of my hardware and managed to sneak out to the garage for a few hours. I replaced the round headed screws in the pics above with the 100° flat head screws that I am planning to use in the final assembly. I used my 100° countersink to cut the seat for the flat head screws in the dash and inner glove box door. I'm following the basic steps that EdwardB did for his glove box attachment. I'll fill the heads and countersinks with JB weld and sand smooth so it doesn't show thru in the vinyl. I also added the cam lock (McMaster Carr p/n: ), finger pull (got from Amazon), and the outer glove box door.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48593584686_4dff21c2d2_h.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48593726357_220e8ee75d_h.jpg

[Yama-Bro]

Last weekend I had some friends over to drop the body on the frame so I could determine the final mounting location for the dash. I followed the advice of fellow forum members in this post...Click here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?33165-Questions-on-body-fitment-to-determine-dash-and-seat-locations) & Here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?33261-Another-dash-to-body-fitment-question)

To locate the body properly, we added the bulb seal to the trunk side aluminum panels, the firewall, and the rear cockpit wall. We covered it with tape to avoid tearing it up.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48671497321_b8d868edbe_h.jpg

Then we lowered the body on and installed the bolts for the front and rear quick jacks.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48671497266_198e76f3cf_h.jpg

We wiggled the dash into place. This works a lot better if you take the upper steering shaft out...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48671156688_cf31a2e6fc_h.jpg

Here's where it ended up. I traced the bottom of the rolled edge onto the dash so I can locate the screws and brackets that mount the dash. I'm planning on having my screws visible on the dash. I also took measurements from the cockpit floor up to the bottom of the dash so I can confirm my location, once we took the body back off. I made sure that we centered the dash on the steering shaft.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48671520686_de2e1b3176_h.jpg

[Yama-Bro]

This weekend I located the dash using my measurements from last week. I marked the back of the dash where the tube overlaps the dash similar to what I did with the front with the body roll. I trimmed and bent the dash ends, and drilled some temporary mounting holes to hold the dash in place while I fabricate my dash mounting brackets.

This is after the body was taken back off. I drilled a hole on each end and added a cleco to hold the dash in place while I fabricate the dash brackets. You can see the pencil mark from the previous step just under the upper edge of the dash. That's how much the body hangs over the dash.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48671694247_567333caf0_h.jpg

Here's the passenger side of the dash after I bent it. I used a coffee can to get the radius. I didn't bend it a full 90 degrees because I want it to tuck under the body and hide the hinges as opposed to bending back farther and attaching to the frame. Most guys just tuck it back like this. I also trimmed off 2.5 inches from this end of the dash for a better fit.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48671522821_a23653d718_h.jpg

Here's the driver's side. Same deal as the passenger side, but I only trimmed an inch off this side.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48671184488_5ce2af024c_h.jpg

Here it is from the cockpit with the bends...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48671697292_b33b719b05_h.jpg

[edwardb]

Good progress. Two comments. (1) I guess I get you're trying to partially hide the hinges with the end of the dash. Not sure how effective or what difference that really makes since IMO they're not obvious at all back under the dash with the doors and body installed. Where you're covering really isn't all that visible. Not the best picture below, but gives an idea. I (like most) just tuck them behind the hinges. But mainly just make sure wherever you put them that the ends aren't touching the underside of the body. If they are, you'll interfere with the body to door fit. Doesn't take much. (2) There's no bulb seal on the rear cockpit wall between the trunk sides. That area should be left plain. With the carpet attached, tucks up under the body roll. The only bulb seal is from the trunk sides down to the door latch area on each side.

https://oi867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/th_IMG_4482_cropped_zpsav8hlzpc.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_4482_cropped_zpsav8hlzpc.jpg.html)

[Jeff Kleiner]

Yama,
No bulb seal across the top of the rear bulkhead:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79011&d=1515679869

Cheers,
Jeff

[Yama-Bro]

Good progress. Two comments. (1) I guess I get you're trying to partially hide the hinges with the end of the dash. Not sure how effective or what difference that really makes since IMO they're not obvious at all back under the dash with the doors and body installed. Where you're covering really isn't all that visible. Not the best picture below, but gives an idea. I (like most) just tuck them behind the hinges. But mainly just make sure wherever you put them that the ends aren't touching the underside of the body. If they are, you'll interfere with the body to door fit. Doesn't take much. (2) There's no bulb seal on the rear cockpit wall between the trunk sides. That area should be left plain. With the carpet attached, tucks up under the body roll. The only bulb seal is from the trunk sides down to the door latch area on each side.



Yama,
No bulb seal across the top of the rear bulkhead:

Cheers,
Jeff

Point taken! Thanks for checking in on me and steering me in the right direction! I appreciate it!

[Yama-Bro]

I fabricated some dash mounting brackets yesterday. As most of you know, the kit is designed so that the dash is screwed directly to the frame and then the screws are covered up by the body. This works fine, but if you ever need to remove the dash, you have to remove the body first, which is not easy. With these brackets, the screws are lowered so that you can access them from the front of the dash and easily remove the dash with the body in place. The screws will be visible now, but I am fine with that, being that I've seen pictures of original cars this way and that's the look I am going for.

A close up of one of the brackets on the driver's side. I made the brackets from 1.5 x 1.5 x .125 thick angle iron. They'll be attached to the frame with rivets. I painted these after this pic, but unfortunately due to the high Nebraska humidity, drying has been slooow. I decided to use pal-nuts to thread the screws into. These allow for some adjustment and are easy to replace if stripped or damaged.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48702629756_feec13fe95_h.jpg

The same location with the dash in place. I sourced #10 stainless round head screws and flanged finishing washers from Mcmaster Carr for a decorative effect once it's done.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48702797747_9109a41674_h.jpg

Overview of the dash with the brackets, screws and washers installed.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48702709101_3e25c918af_h.jpg

Here's a back view of the dash bracket near the glove box. When I designed the glove box, I had a general idea where my mounts would be, so I cut a clearance notch in the glove box. Here's how it ended up. Looks like I guesstimated fairly well. The other tight area was the screw on the driver's side closest to the door. I had to get one of the gauges out and double check there was no interference with the bracket.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48702300013_c83d5997c6_h.jpg

[BadAsp427]

Very nice... really like the way you mounted the dash... Cool....

[cv2065]

Looks good Yama Bro...I did roughly the same thing and it came out great.

[Yama-Bro]

Very nice... really like the way you mounted the dash... Cool....


Looks good Yama Bro...I did roughly the same thing and it came out great.

Thanks guys!

[Yama-Bro]

I worked on two of the under-dash support brackets today. They came out pretty good. This is one of the things you'll never see unless you are laying under the dash...so consider yourself lucky if you are reading this post. ;)

These Factory Five supplied aluminum brackets had a square hole in them to hold some mustang parts that I'm not using, so I re-purposed them to house the foot box heater vents. The driver's side will also have the switch for the driver's seat heater. I installed nut-serts into them so they can be easily removed for behind the dash access and removal of the dash.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48818198278_82e9798a31_k.jpg

Here's the bracket installed. This picture is looking up at the underside of the dash on the passenger side. Notice the heater in the background. It's a short run for the heater duct to this vent. I also put the nut-serts in the frame.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48818198048_33b5738376_k.jpg

Here's looking down from the top. I had a lot of the #10 decorative screws and finish washers left over from attaching the dash to the frame. I figured they'd look good fastening these brackets too. I'll probably shorten the screws later.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48818710382_c8d7ff773c_k.jpg

Here's a view of the driver's side from underneath. Adding these brackets really stiffened up the dash.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48818710622_dcafe9fd25_k.jpg

This is a picture from two weekends ago that I never posted. I added a hole for the push button that controls the speedometer on the bottom lip of the dash under the high beam switch. This lets you control the GPS functions (like 1/4 mile times) and reset the trip-meter.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48818557656_920e1d9dc7_k.jpg

I put the button that controls the clock on the opposite side...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48818557416_8fe43735f2_k.jpg

[BB767]

Hi Frank,

Still following your progress, looks like really nice work! I've been on the road now about a year, love my BluePrint engine! Hey, if I'm not mistaken you have the fuel pump safety switch mounted upside down. I was told to mount it with the button down but I am sure someone more knowledgeable will chime in with either confirmation or correction. Keep up the great work!

Your (almost) sister car, #9160
(Brien)

[Yama-Bro]

Hi Frank,

Still following your progress, looks like really nice work! I've been on the road now about a year, love my BluePrint engine! Hey, if I'm not mistaken you have the fuel pump safety switch mounted upside down. I was told to mount it with the button down but I am sure someone more knowledgeable will chime in with either confirmation or correction. Keep up the great work!

Your (almost) sister car, #9160
(Brien)

Hi! I'm glad you are liking your BPE engine! Thanks for pointing out my fuel pump switch. I thought I put this in the way the manual calls out, but maybe I was looking at the manual upside down. LOL. The wiring for it would be a lot nicer the other way around. I did a search to see if I could find any other posts about it, but I couldn't find much. If no one replies, I'll post it in the main roadster section and get the straight poop on it.

[Ducky2009]

...... fuel pump switch.

Frank, If you turn the switch over and hit a hard bump in the road, it will kick out and shut off the engine. You have it installed correctly.

Nice way to install your heater vents!

[Yama-Bro]

Frank, If you turn the switch over and hit a hard bump in the road, it will kick out and shut off the engine. You have it installed correctly.

Nice way to install your heater vents!

And there we have it. Love this forum. Thanks Ducky!

[BB767]

And there we have it. Love this forum. Thanks Ducky!

Totally agree, I stand corrected!

[Yama-Bro]

Totally agree, I stand corrected!

No prob. You had better flip yours over. Thanks for bringing up the concern though. It never hurts to double check.

[PrestonT23]

Great job on the glove box! Keep up the good work!

[Yama-Bro]

I had a couple hours to spare this weekend and installed the "dash support" in the car. This piece mimics the look of the visible frame members in the original cars. This was an upgrade option that I had to have. I suspect Factory Five designed this part for thier FIA Cobra replica. I put it in the location as described in the FFR instructions, but I'm assuming there's something different between the two cars, because it didn't line up to the dash at all. I almost scrapped the idea of using it and considered using the space for some inset cup holders instead, but after a quick review of my Cobra books, I came to realize all the originals had these tubes and mine should too. So, I fab'ed a simple bracket to extend the dash support's flange to reach the bottom of the dash. It's in there now, is solid, and looks great.

The extension bracket...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48935358846_932f6d43cb_k.jpg

The dash support with bracket in place...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48934813563_4221c62c1c_k.jpg

Here's the support with the dash in place. I also took the opportunity to move the buttons for the speedometer and clock more towards the center and under their respective gages. You can see them in this picture. Where they were at before I was worried they would easily get bumped by people's knees.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48934814318_41b1e04e52_k.jpg

[Yama-Bro]

This weekend I fabricated the last under dash bracket. This one isn't so much for dash support, but to hold the passenger side seat heater switch and the 12volt receptacle for charging phones and powering other electronic devices. In a previous career I held the role of an industrial designer. Industrial designers not only have the job of making the companies' products look good, but also laying out ergonomic and intuitive controls. I've tried to keep most of my controls on the dash and visible because that's the way I'm programmed :p. But I did want to hide the modern controls under the dash and only have the vintage looking stuff visible up top. So with that, I'll have the two seat heater switches, the two gauge control buttons and the 12VDC receptacle under the dash.

I had a little help from the Red Baron to do some prototyping...:D
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49010432558_bb9ecc1086_k.jpg

Here's the finished bracket under the dash...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49010967656_85fd39c1e4_k.jpg

[Davkel]

Steve,are you the cobra I've been seeing runnibg around HWY 190. Sure like to talk to you as I am retiring soon and planning on ordering complete it shortly....

[Yama-Bro]

I lied in my last post about the doing the last under dash bracket. My friend, Lance and I did a final fit of the body to the frame with the dash to check for any issues and to mark where the body needs to be trimmed. During that process I discovered that I didn't like the way the passenger side end of the dash sat under the body. So we made a little bracket to attach that end to the frame. Here it is. I'm pretty sure if I would've just bent the end of the dash where there are the small notches I could've done without the bracket...sigh...hindsight is 20/20....

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49154864637_258c646199_k.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49154864712_290ece8e80_k.jpg[/url]

[Yama-Bro]

Next up, I did some customizing to my vintage style knobs so they'd mount on the dash controls...

The knobs came with a .25 hex for mounting to the controls. Unfortunately, that doesn't work, because all my controls are smaller round shafts. I purchased a bar of .25 hex alum fro McMaster Carr to fill the holes in the knobs. I cut them into lengths just long enough to fill the knob without sticking out the end...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49154172758_f43f59cfe0_k.jpg

Next, I chucked the cut pieces of hex into my Dad's lathe and drilled perfectly centered holes thru the hex filler pieces...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49154672416_255d617057_k.jpg

I inserted the filler pieces into the knobs, then drilled and tapped holes for set screws. I put #8-32 threads thru both the knob material and the alum hex material. I also filed a flat on the shaft of the controls, if they didn't have one already. It seems to work great. Here are the two fresh air pulls...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49154672501_4ddeac21be_k.jpg

The one odd ball I had was the dash dimmer control. The shaft was to big for the hex alum and the hole in the knob was to big for the shaft of the dimmer control. I decided to fill the hole in the knob with JB weld and drill out to the desired size...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49154672821_9bae7cf48a_k.jpg

And here it is. The dimmer control actually has a press fit for the knob, so I just sized the hole in the new knob to match the one I'm replacing...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49154883397_cd504b3f3b_k.jpg

A perfect press fit...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49154883192_65a28d0010_k.jpg

And here they are, ready to go in the dash, once it's covered, which is coming soon...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49154673501_4576d91c44_k.jpg

[Yama-Bro]

Before covering the dash, the holes for screw heads need to be filled in, so they don't show thru the vinyl. Like several others have done, I placed my glove box and hinge screws in the dash, red loctited the screws/nuts in place and then filled the recess of the heads with JB weld. I sanded the JB weld filler down to be flush with the front of the dash.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49154671551_d9a121755d_k.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49154881377_19342eafb4_k.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49154881537_e531e2097d_k.jpg

[Yama-Bro]

Over the last few weekends, My friend and I have been covering the dash. The kit includes a roll of vinyl with foam backing material for covering the dash. I reviewed pictures of original Cobras and didn't see many with padded dashes, so I separated the foam from the vinyl. The two materials came apart surprisingly easy. So much so that I really question how it stays together once it's on the car. We used 3M Super Trim adhesive to bond the vinyl to the aluminum dash. Its like a contact cement, in that you apply it to both sides, let it setup a little, then put them together and apply pressure. Its very sticky stuff. It was suggested to me by a local upholstery shop over the DAP Landau Top product. His reasoning was mostly due to it being in a spray form vs the DAP being brush or roll on and that it doesn't dry up while sitting on the shelf. He thought performance was equal between the two products. We applied the vinyl in stages. We let each stage cure for several days before moving onto the next. I've read many horror stories of the vinyl coming loose after installation, so I took many precautions to avoid that happening; such as surface prep, application temp, curing temp, and curing time & pressure.

Step 1...this was the easiest part...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49154881952_6b254a1c21_k.jpg

The glove box door...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49191397932_e1a27990e6_k.jpg

Lance manned the heat gun to help keep the parts in the ideal zone for adhesion, since it's getting a little chilly in the garage this time of year...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49191201766_11d4c1d307_k.jpg

Step 2.5. We cut reliefs in the vinyl, so it wouldn't bunch up when folded over in the curves...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49191201651_e803d4b019_k.jpg

The final step. This one was pretty involved. We did the ends and everything in the middle all at once.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49191202211_e35c66b067_k.jpg

The weight applied during the final step. I think we used everything we could find LOL...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49190702268_0acfeec5e1_k.jpg

[Yama-Bro]

This weekend I also did a few finishing touches on the glove box.

I spray painted the inside of the glove box with textured paint. I was hoping to cover up the 3d print layer marks, but it didn't really work, despite the sanding before hand. It has a nice solid color now, though. I guess I won't leave the glove box open in car shows. :D
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49191398922_979e068b25_k.jpg

Since the back of the glove box is in close proximity to the heater, I thought it would be worth putting some heat reflective material on the back of the box...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49191202986_4d2132dcb1_k.jpg

[Papa]

Great work, Frank. This is like watching a movie and getting the dreaded "To be continued" right when it's about to reveal the mystery!

Dave

[Yama-Bro]

Great work, Frank. This is like watching a movie and getting the dreaded "To be continued" right when it's about to reveal the mystery!

Dave

HAHAHAA...That's a good one, and I totally see where you are coming from.

[Yama-Bro]

And now for the exciting season finale!!!! :D

I feel like we hit a milestone last night. My friend, Lance, and I assembled the dash and put it in the car. I've been working on the dash since the end of April. Some guys build their whole car in that time. Haha. I knew exactly what I wanted and went for it. It turned out really good. There are still a few small tweaks I want to do to it, but I'm satisfied with it at this point. I wanted to invoke the feeling of sitting in an original Cobra before you even fire it up. I think the dash plays a major part in that.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49219408618_1d18d412f5_k.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49219891251_27cfcb4e16_k.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49219891311_8372ef1944_k.jpg

[Papa]

That looks fabulous, Frank!

Dave

[D02G]

Dash looks great!

[cv2065]

Looks awesome Frank. Nice work!

[Straversi]

Congrats. Really well done.
-Steve

[Yama-Bro]

Thanks Guys!

[Daddy O]

Awesome build thread so far. Sent you a PM.

[Yama-Bro]

Nathan and I made some progress on something that isn't the dash...we installed the radiator and fan. I've read quite a bit of criticism on the forum concerning this area of the kit, so I had to do some upgrades. :p I bought a Breeze Automotive upper (70558) and lower (70551) radiator support and one of their nice shrouds (70772).

To put the hinged upper support on, you need to remove the two short pieces of tubing that are welded on the upper radiator support tube by Factory Five. I ground off the welds and my friend took the rest off with a hammer and a chisel.
You can also see the sub assembly of the shround and radiator on the floor in the background. The upper support kit mostly consists of a large stainless piano hinge, that rivets to the radiator's flange which in turn, gets screwed to the radiator support tube of the frame.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49404384091_8cea165562_k.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49404384251_f2dd917c29_k.jpg

We used my ever-handy ATV jack to hold up the radiator assembly, while we lined it up to the frame and set the angle.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49403907143_df285c8780_k.jpg

Once you have the assembly lined up where you want it, drill and tap holes to attach the hinge to the upper radiator support tube.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49403907013_1d10cb37d5_k.jpg

The lower radiator support kit consists of a tube with rubber hose for isolating the radiator. And some nice laser cut brackets that bolt to the frame and allow some adjustment of the radiator angle.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49403907048_841c51b655_k.jpg

We completed it on a Friday night with enough time leftover to kick back and enjoy our handy work while enjoying a cool beverage.

Overall I thought the Breeze kit was a nice kit. Great instructions...very clear. It all went together without an issue. I'm very happy with it. Excluding the shroud, I think the support kits are something I could've of made myself to save a little money, but after recently finishing up the dash (which was fairly customized), I was ready for a quick bolt in project...and this fit the bill nicely.

[Yama-Bro]

Sometimes instead of moving forward, you take a couple steps backwards. That's what I've been doing lately. After installing the radiator, we discovered the tape that I put on to protect the frame from scratches is stuck like 100 year old wall paper. The blue tape came of much better than the green tape. Major bummer. With the help of WD-40 and a heat gun, I've peeled off quite a bit, but still have the really difficult areas left. Not fun at all. I think I'll do the rest on another day, my knees and fingernails need a break. It seems to be stuck worse in the front. I suspect it's that way because it may have got some brake cleaner spray on it when I was bleeding the brakes.

And then to top it off, I noticed one of my Girling Brake reservoirs is leaking around the bottom seam...darn it!

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49487008393_c6b3ddb162_k.jpg

[GoDadGo]

Brother Bro,

While you are dealing with some issues know that we all have set backs so don't let this stuff get you down.
Even if the powder coat peels in some spots you can touch it up with some rattle can black with some rattle can clear.
You've got this brother, because we've all been there so hang in there.

Steve

Maybe these little videos will give you a little pick me up.

https://youtu.be/IGYtX-3p7xk
https://youtu.be/Vhbftk4AP4k
https://youtu.be/-nVDzIjSjh8

[TMartinLVNV]

Sometimes instead of moving forward, you take a couple steps backwards. That's what I've been doing lately. After installing the radiator, we discovered the tape that I put on to protect the frame from scratches is stuck like 100 year old wall paper. The blue tape came of much better than the green tape. Major bummer. With the help of WD-40 and a heat gun, I've peeled off quite a bit, but still have the really difficult areas left. Not fun at all. I think I'll do the rest on another day, my knees and fingernails need a break. It seems to be stuck worse in the front. I suspect it's that way because it may have got some brake cleaner spray on it when I was bleeding the brakes.

And then to top it off, I noticed one of my Girling Brake reservoirs is leaking around the bottom seam...darn it!

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49487008393_c6b3ddb162_k.jpg

That stinks. I used the blue tape in certain areas but not nearly as much as you did. For the most part, it came off easily. But it never came off leaving little pieces everywhere like your green tape did.

I'm really digging the way you brushed the aluminum and left it visible. I used spray on bedliner aerosol cans and am unhappy with how easy it is to scratch off of the aluminum. If I could do another car, I think I would prepare the aluminum the way you did.

[John Ibele]

Hey Frank,

Still following your build as I inch my way forward on my own, and also take a few steps back along with gradual forward progress. My latest was making a rookie mistake as I made my access panel into the DS footbox to get to the upper pedal box / master cylinder area (older MK4 kit) ... looks great on the outside, Rivnuts too close to the opening without the hatch in place. Will bug me until I fix it. Yup, we've all been there!

For some encouragement, just cover up the bottom 1/2 of your photo with the 'problem' - everything you've done looks top notch. You have a right to be proud of your work!

Hang in there!

Cheers,

-- John

[Yama-Bro]

Thanks for the words of encouragement guys! I ended up getting an excellent suggestion from a friend at work. He loaned me an Astro smart eraser tool, that is designed to remove pin-striping. It worked great. It made a heck of a mess and smelled like burnt rubber, but it saved me a ton of time. It didn't leave any marks in the powder coating either. This picture was taken after I wiped some the eraser dust off the frame, so it was a lot dirtier.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49522507456_2a46f51cc9_k.jpg

If you ever run into a similar situation, I recommend one of the these tools...
https://www.astrotools.com/smart-eraser-pad-for-pinstripe-removal-tool-made-in-usa.html

[John Ibele]

Nice! Glad it worked out. There's a tool everyone wants to know about, and no one wants to use :rolleyes:

Onward!

Cheers,

-- John

[Yama-Bro]

I got all my tape off the frame and my leaky break reservoir replaced so now I'm back to forward progress. :cool: ...Putting together the emergency brake lever. I thought this was a fun little sub assembly project.

I remember reading on the forum that the ratcheting teeth tend to wear down if used frequently. I decided to dig into that a bit. I measured the hardness of these two parts and analyzed the material. It's no surprise they wear out. The material is a low carbon steel and the hardness is 75 HRB, which is pretty soft. To remedy this, I had the parts carburized, which is a process that case hardens the parts by basically infusing carbon from the atmosphere into the heated steel. This brought the outer skin (approx .030") of the part up to 60 HRC, which is much harder. The hard outside surface will reduce wear greatly and the softer inside of the part will still allow it to flex slightly. I think it'll be the perfect solution for these pieces.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49632423853_31f327ec7e_k.jpg

Here's the complete emergency brake assembly. I will tear this back apart to paint it.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49632423818_8ef7fc50ae_k.jpg

Installed in the car. It's a tight fit, but it all went in. There is a little interference with the aluminum tranny tunnel panel. I may have to trim that slightly (see the black marker marks forward of the lever). Has anyone else ran into this?
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49632946281_04322a09bd_k.jpg

[edwardb]

Nice improvement on those teeth. I haven't seen mine wear after three driving seasons. I do us the e-brake some. But probably not enough to cause wear like some apparently do. Yes, it's common to have to tweak things a bit to swing the handle away from the transmission tunnel side. Like most you'll probably have insulation and carpet under there too. So it needs to move out. Grind or file a little material from the slots in the mounting brackets on the handle and the chassis so it can move. Out at the front and in a bit in the back. Easy fix.

[MSumners]

Installed in the car. It's a tight fit, but it all went in. There is a little interference with the aluminum tranny tunnel panel. I may have to trim that slightly (see the black marker marks forward of the lever). Has anyone else ran into this?

I actually just went through the process of trying to re-fit the E-brake last evening, now with insulation and panels final riveted. Definitely more interference than I recall. Looks like an easy fix with adjusting the mounting brackets a bit though. The other thing I noticed is that I can’t really reach the handle from the seat, and I anticipate may be impossible to when harnessed in. I hadn’t noticed it before so thought I would mention it.

[Yama-Bro]

Nice improvement on those teeth. I haven't seen mine wear after three driving seasons. I do us the e-brake some. But probably not enough to cause wear like some apparently do. Yes, it's common to have to tweak things a bit to swing the handle away from the transmission tunnel side. Like most you'll probably have insulation and carpet under there too. So it needs to move out. Grind or file a little material from the slots in the mounting brackets on the handle and the chassis so it can move. Out at the front and in a bit in the back. Easy fix.

Thanks Paul, I was going to cut some out of the aluminum, but I'll do what you are saying and open up the holes in the brackets. Good insight.


Installed in the car. It's a tight fit, but it all went in. There is a little interference with the aluminum tranny tunnel panel. I may have to trim that slightly (see the black marker marks forward of the lever). Has anyone else ran into this?

I actually just went through the process of trying to re-fit the E-brake last evening, now with insulation and panels final riveted. Definitely more interference than I recall. Looks like an easy fix with adjusting the mounting brackets a bit though. The other thing I noticed is that I can’t really reach the handle from the seat, and I anticipate may be impossible to when harnessed in. I hadn’t noticed it before so thought I would mention it.

I have read that it is difficult, if not impossible, to reach the emergency brake lever when strapped in. For the sake of making progress, I decided to leave it as designed by FFR. I was considering making a different handle housing that angles the handle up more towards vertical. I don't know if that would be enough to make it within reach though. I'll have a better idea, once I get my seats in. I've seen some pictures on the forum where the handle is sticking up way past the top of the tranny cover. Those look a lot more accessible. Not sure what they are doing to get that to work.

[Yama-Bro]

I wasn't completely happy with my glove box door, so I made some changes to it....the way it was it seemed to blend in with the dash. I wanted it to be a little more noticeable / three dimensional, without going overboard.

I went down to my local upholstery shop, Huerta's Upholstery, the owner Tim, knocked out a nice strip of welting to wrap around the outside of the glove box door.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49653684361_114a6fee67_k.jpg

I was told the pretty side of the vinyl wouldn't stick down with the vinyl top adhesive that I was using, so I decided to try the silicone caulking we use on the aluminum panels of the car. It seems to stick to everything. LOL. What you see in the pic will be sandwiched between the front glove box panel and the rear, so you won't see any of the triangular cuts, even with the door open.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49653147288_0f1638e3a9_k.jpg

Here it is with the welting attached. This was more the look I was after in the first place. I'm happy with this for now. If the silicone caulking gives me troubles later on, the whole door system may get a redesign after the car is on the road.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49653146778_96eeec9c7d_k.jpg

[Yama-Bro]

I've been working on the seats for a few weekends. I decided instead of taking the easy route of bolting them directly to the floor, I would install seat sliders, because it seems like a nice feature to have in a car. Most race tracks require dual locking sliders, so I opted to not get the FFR sliders (which are single locking) and picked up two sets of dual locking universal sliders from Summit Racing. A lot people post that this is upgrade is not worth the effort. Now that I've done it, I can definitely see where they are coming from. If you are thinking of putting them in your car, seriously consider bolting your seats directly to the floor before spending the time and money on this upgrade. If you still decide to do it, check out my pictures and dimensions below and use them as a guide, but be sure to double check everything in your own car, because I can't guarantee it will be the same.

I'll start off by saying, the Summit sliders that I used are very similar to the FFR set. That fact they are similar made the FFR instructions useful as reference during assembly. The sliders I used are part number SUM-G1153. They are about half the price of the FFR sliders. Here's one set of the sliders. They had pressed in and crimped studs, that required me to hack saw, grind and press them out (which is also required on the FFR set).
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49799321698_220116b69c_k.jpg

Here's the driver's side bolted to the floor. Even though the floor is flat, there aren't a lot of options for solid mounting on the bottom side of the aluminum floor panel. I did a lot of laying out to get the sliders bolted down solid.
I modified the sliders so that the locking lever is in the center. It was designed to be on the outer left side. To get this to work, I fab'ed up the cross bar that goes between the two sides out of .125" thick steel strip.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49800176667_81166d90b2_k.jpg

Here's the layout and dims for the holes. I didn't find to much info on this when I was searching, so I thought I'd share mine. Please double check all your measurements before cutting any metal. The images below are for the driver's side. The passenger side is mirrored.
Hole A is drilled directly into the 4" tube and the 2" square tube and then tapped for 5/16-18
Hole B is drilled thru the panel. Make sure to watch out for brake or fuel lines on the under side.
Hole C is drilled all the way thru the 2" square tube. Make sure this doesn't run into the 3 link mounting brackets on the underside.
Hole D is drilled thru the panel.
I used 5/16 hardware for mounting. I used stainless socket head cap screws to hold the sliders to the floor. Carriage bolts could also work for three of these if the sides of heads of the bolts were ground down to fit between the slides rails. There are stainless nyloc nuts on the underside of the 3 that go thru. I used carriage bolts up thru the sliders into the seats, with nuts on top.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49799499493_4eec732966_b.jpg

This shows the drilling in the seat. Please note this doesn't show the first tube in the very front of the seat. The one you drill is the 2nd tube. The passenger side ended up being 2.38" vs 2.50". Also, I noticed I left off an important dimension...the distance between the holes in the seat from front to back. That dim is 10.70".
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49799499518_2bba2dcbb5_b.jpg

Here's a video of the slider in action. Note that I also bent the lever to miss the opposite side slider. Sorry for the shakiness. At each bolt, I used the spacers (that came with the sliders) and two 5/16" washers to space the seat up above the the locking mechanism.
https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/49800178047_14f3582b2f_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iSEVVr)

Both seats in the car. The sliders have about 6" to 7" of travel. Unfortunately, due to the limited options for mounting locations, they don't go as far back as I had hoped. The farthest back position is about perfect for me (I'm 5'7"), but anyone taller would want it back farther. Each seat could go about 2" to 3" farther back. They are going to work for now, but I'm pondering an adapter/bracket that will allow the seats to go all the way to the back of the cockpit. It will allow it to fit taller people, plus make it easier to get in and out of for us short people. Stay tuned for part two.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49799322273_d611ad17e7_k.jpg

Here's a top down view. I got the seats angled slightly outwards, like the originals.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49800177627_642a31468c_k.jpg

[Railroad]

Put your door latch strikers on and make sure they clear the seats. It looks like they will. I used F5 sliders, a lot of work and my drivers seat just touches the striker. It was worse, but I had a little wiggle room after loosening the seats and retightening. Nice work!

[Yama-Bro]

Put your door latch strikers on and make sure they clear the seats. It looks like they will. I used F5 sliders, a lot of work and my drivers seat just touches the striker. It was worse, but I had a little wiggle room after loosening the seats and retightening. Nice work!

Dang, Thanks for the heads up. I'll check that. Do I need to check the latch part that is on the door, or just the striker that is attached to the frame? I came up with my side to side location by centering my seats between the seat belt brackets.

[Railroad]

Just the striker, IMO. Also, the striker shims out from the mount anywhere from 3/8 to 1/2". I think 5/16" washers? Maybe 3/8" for the spacing.

[Yama-Bro]

Seat sliders continued... I made some ugly little adapters to move the seats back two inches. This gets the seats all the way to the back of the cockpit for tall people and makes getting in/out easier for everyone. The seats still come forward 6 to 7" to cover a range of shorter people, like myself.

Like I said, they are a little ugly. I started with some channel and cut notches to clear the sliding mechanism with a saws-all and an assortment of grinders. I drilled holes to line up with the slider and seat mounting holes. This basically cantilevers the seat off the back of the sliders roughly 2". These two adapters are for the passenger side. I threw a coat of paint on them to keep them from rusting after the picture was taken. A really neat feature for the passenger side is that you can flip the adapters around backwards and make the seat slide all the way to the dash instead of the back of the cockpit. That wasn't by design, that was because I marked them backwards...whoops. Lol. At least I was able to salvage them by enlarging the notches.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49999517401_866b281cca_k.jpg

Here are the adapters mounted to the sliders before the seat is bolted on. This is on the passenger side.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49998997468_12df10067b_k.jpg

Here's the seat all the way to the back.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49999771177_398564aedc_k.jpg

Here it is all the way to the front. Having the seat sliders makes it easier to clean out behind the seat or to get access to that 10mm socket that rolled down the tranny tunnel and behind the seat.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49999517646_f00540de15_k.jpg

[Yama-Bro]

This week I went thru the manual and made a list of things that I can complete before installing the engine and transmission and before doing any work on the body or body accessories. Well, it turns out the list is pretty short, only 24 items. A few are time consuming and some are easy. I had a little time this weekend so I knocked out a couple of the easy ones. I installed the clutch cable and the fuel tank vent tube.

Fuel tank vent tube. Super easy. I know some guys put a carbon canister on here to stop fuel vapors from filling the garage, others claim they've never smelled any vapors. I've had a lot of machines with engines and fuel tanks in my garage over the years and I've never smelled fuel vapors, except maybe with my son's motor bicycle, so I'm skipping the carbon canister for now. I can always add it later if it gets stinky. I'll let you know if I make any changes. For the hose routing, I simply zip tied it to the fuel lines and then ran it down the vertical tube that holds the fuel tank. I cut it off just above the bottom of the tank so you won't see it hanging out the bottom of the car.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50057330738_c571bcdc27_k.jpg

The clutch cable. Also really easy. I spent more time trying to find the screw that attaches it to the front of the foot box. I never did find the one that the manual says is included, so I ran to the hardware store and pickup up a #08 x .50" socket head cap screw. I drilled and tapped the front of the foot box to accept the screw.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50057330798_500508b13b_k.jpg[/url]

[GTBradley]

Looking good! I wish that I could move the seat like that. I was afraid I wouldn't like the additional height of the seat, especially coupled with the Breeze seat brackets I used.

I don't know what others are experiencing, but I recently went back into the seats to modify the cushions and was surprised to see that seat frame was rusting already, probably from some water I got in the floorboard. Probably not a big deal, but it would be nice if they powder coated that seat frame before assembling those seats. I can tell what region you are in just by the surface rust on the oxide bolts on the outside of the footbox. Those oxide coated bolts don't get the surface rust here in Denver, but I know what the humidity in the Midwest is like since I'm from KC.

[Yama-Bro]

Looking good! I wish that I could move the seat like that. I was afraid I wouldn't like the additional height of the seat, especially coupled with the Breeze seat brackets I used.

I don't know what others are experiencing, but I recently went back into the seats to modify the cushions and was surprised to see that seat frame was rusting already, probably from some water I got in the floorboard. Probably not a big deal, but it would be nice if they powder coated that seat frame before assembling those seats. I can tell what region you are in just by the surface rust on the oxide bolts on the outside of the footbox. Those oxide coated bolts don't get the surface rust here in Denver, but I know what the humidity in the Midwest is like since I'm from KC.

I tried to keep the seat as low as possible. I honestly, don't think you could get it any lower than what I did. For a tall person it might still be too much. That's ok though, because I'm short. I've always said I like being short because tall guys don't fit well in Ferraris (meaning any small car). :D

I know what you are saying about the rust on the black oxide bolts. they may get replaced at some point. I am worried about the seat frame too. I am from Nebraska, it gets humid but not as bad as some places.

[Yama-Bro]

I'm in the stage of making modifications before I've even driven the car. Haha. I've heard a lot of good things about this gas pedal made by Russ Thompson. I didn't really like the Factory Five pedal, so I thought I'd give this one a try. It's more adjustable, doesn't rub on the foot box wall, it has less moving parts, and it matches the Wilwood clutch and brake pedals better. I mounted it temporarily. I also ordered a mechanical throttle linkage from Forte's Parts Connection, so once I have that and an engine I'll be able to setup this pedal properly.

Here's what came in the box, not shown are instructions. I actually purchased the pedal from Breeze Automotive. It looks like the instructions are made by Breeze.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50085810723_567262b95b_k.jpg

The spacing of these pedals is perfect. Really happy with this. If I do anything, I'll scoot the clutch pedal over to the left, but I'm gonna try this like it is first. I may need to drill a couple more holes in the gas pedal to make it match even closer.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50086393576_0a73702e39_k.jpg

[GoDadGo]

Remember to fit and drill your roll bars, assuming you plan to run them, before you attach the cockpit and trunk aluminum.

It makes fitting and drilling a lot easier.

[Yama-Bro]

Remember to fit and drill your roll bars, assuming you plan to run them, before you attach the cockpit and trunk aluminum.

It makes fitting and drilling a lot easier.

Yep, Thanks for the reminder! I have that on my hit list of things to do.

[Yama-Bro]

I fabricated this nifty little bracket to stiffen the firewall. It turned out pretty good.

This was my chance to try out my new Harbor Freight sheet metal brake. It works good for thin metals like this.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50106976492_9e6ecf62c3_k.jpg

The finished piece
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50106976537_8adb74e178_k.jpg

Here it is assembled in place. This really adds support to the firewall. I put the holes in it to run wires thru. There's also room for wires to go above and below. I'll use some grommets or trim to prevent the wires from chaffing. The defroster duct will go between the stiffener and the dash.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50106976577_7c71a4a602_k.jpg

[Papa]

Nice bracket, Frank. Let the guys at BPE know that my 347 is running great after some fine tuning on the Sniper. I've got about 1300 miles on it now and she fires up, idles, and runs great at any RPM.

Dave

[Yama-Bro]

Nice bracket, Frank. Let the guys at BPE know that my 347 is running great after some fine tuning on the Sniper. I've got about 1300 miles on it now and she fires up, idles, and runs great at any RPM.

Dave

Thanks Papa! And good to hear your engine is still going strong. I see one of those in my near future. =)

[SSNK4US]

Plus one more on the bracket. Great idea and nicely done Frank!

[Yama-Bro]

Plus one more on the bracket. Great idea and nicely done Frank!

Thanks! I can't take credit for the bracket though. I saw something similar quite awhile ago on someone else's build thread. No idea whose though.

[460.465USMC]

While I was at it, I decided to permanently attach the passenger side foot box and upper forward transmission cover to the frame...

Here are my brushed passenger footbox panels. They are looking pretty good, if I do so so myself.

Hi Yama-Bro. I'm enjoying your build thread. Great documentation, and appreciate all of the pictures! The brushed/Sharkhide look is really growing on me...not to mention I can save a few shekels v. applying PC. Pretty sure I'll have no issue spending too much on other areas once I start my build. Thanks again for the details and tips.

[Yama-Bro]

Pretty sure I'll have no issue spending too much on other areas once I start my build.

I'm sure that won't be an issue. LOL My plan going into this was to do a to-the-book build, with a few selected mods. Now that I've been at it for awhile, I think I've done something outside the realm of the manual for just about every step. LOL. And they all add a little to the cost.

[Yama-Bro]

We made a heat shield for the brake lines. It accomplishes a few things. It's main purpose to is protect the brake line from exhaust header heat, but it also has a tab bent on the bottom that protects the area where the brake line bends under the cockpit from rocks coming off the tires. Thirdly, it provides another layer of heat insulation for the driver's foot box. We used to use simple sheet metal heat shields like this, on generators at a previous place of employment. They were highly effective. Its mostly due to the layer of air between the hot item and the item you are trying to protect. Not really the heat shield itself.

Cody doing some cutting. After cutting we formed the part with our sheet metal brake.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50158993072_b0a82fe2d1_k.jpg

1" standoffs mounted to the front of the driver's side footbox. These are to space the heat shield out away from the footbox.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50158742351_cc316d78b3_k.jpg

I covered the heat shield with a layer of Thermo Tec's Cool It reflective heat barrier. It reflects up to 2000 degrees of radiant heat. Should do the job.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50158205053_5bf1e8064e_k.jpg

Final product mounted in place. The exhaust header will go directly in front of this shield, within and inch or two. If needed I can shorten the standoffs.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50158756526_4c573457a2_k.jpg

[460.465USMC]

I like it! Looks like an effective solution. Added to my growing catalog of tips/tricks once mine gets underway. Thanks!

[JB in NOVA]

I can tell what region you are in just by the surface rust on the oxide bolts on the outside of the footbox. Those oxide coated bolts don't get the surface rust here in Denver, but I know what the humidity in the Midwest is like since I'm from KC.

Yama-Bro, great thread! Really appreciate all the detail. I got a chuckle out of this comment from GTBradley. I've only had my kit for about 4 months, and I'm already seeing rust on certain pieces, especially the black-oxide-coated bolts. I live in the Washington, DC area, and the heat and humidity have been awful this summer. I've been replacing all those black-oxide-coated bolts with stainless steel whenever I can:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129614&d=1591565446

A few bucks here and there to avoid future headaches trying to get a hex wrench into a rusted socket cap screw. Well worth it, in my opinion. (Or we could all move to Colorado.)

[GTBradley]

Even with single digit humidity I’m seeing it too, just not much yet. I do appreciate not sweating while doing absolutely nothing in the shade anymore. Come on out, you’ll see for yourself what sweat is supposed to do for you.

[Yama-Bro]

Baby steps. Horns installed....

The mounting brackets seem a little chintzy, but they must work becuase I've seen a lot of others doing it this way. I'm not changing anything on this step. Easy one.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50158204813_45d597a61c_k.jpg

[Yama-Bro]

I took the day off and spent some quality time with my roadster. I fabricated panels to box in the upper sides of the trunk for easier and cleaner looking carpeting.

I started the panels by making a template, the yellow cardstock in the upper left. I trimmed it until it fit, then I copied that shape over to the aluminum. I had to do the odd shaped cut outs to clear the roll bar mounting tubes that are welded to the frame.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50299663641_0cfff2c8af_k.jpg

Here's the driver's side panel attached to the frame with cleco's. Having these panels will give me flat surfaces to attach the trunk carpet to...as opposed to conforming to all the angled frame members that the panels covers up. Just an FYI...there's another panel that goes on the outside side of the frame (not shown in picture), so when this is all done you won't be able to see thru those gaps into the wheel well. It will be water tight, for the most part.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50299665581_9bd12de07a_k.jpg

Here's the trunk starting to take shape. There's going to be lots of room in there for luggage and camping gear. Just kidding. LOL.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50299819747_c7ce230dd1_k.jpg

[egchewy79]

I took the day off and spent some quality time with my roadster. I fabricated panels to box in the upper sides of the trunk for easier and cleaner looking carpeting.

I started the panels by making a template, the yellow cardstock in the upper left. I trimmed it until it fit, then I copied that shape over to the aluminum. I had to do the odd shaped cut outs to clear the roll bar mounting tubes that are welded to the frame.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50299663641_0cfff2c8af_k.jpg

Here's the driver's side panel attached to the frame with cleco's. Having these panels will give me flat surfaces to attach the trunk carpet to...as opposed to conforming to all the angled frame members that the panels covers up. Just an FYI...there's another panel that goes on the outside side of the frame (not shown in picture), so when this is all done you won't be able to see thru those gaps into the wheel well. It will be water tight, for the most part.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50299665581_9bd12de07a_k.jpg

Here's the trunk starting to take shape. There's going to be lots of room in there for luggage and camping gear. Just kidding. LOL.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50299819747_c7ce230dd1_k.jpg

looking good. I like the trunk side panels you made. just a suggestion before you rivet down the trunk aluminum... for the access hole to your fuel pump/pickup, I found the precut opening too small to reach the fuel and return lines on the hanger. I ended up cutting a larger hole and making a larger blockoff plate using the aluminum I removed from the trunk floor for by drop trunk box. Then I used rivnuts to secure the panels (for both the fuel sender and the pump hanger) for easy access down the road. I figure if I ever needed to replace the pump/hanger, I would at least have access to the connectors without having to drop the tank.

[BadAsp427]

Looking good, you did a nice job on those side panels. I see that you did not leave the small triangle area open in the drop trunk. I have to tell you, I use that little area a lot. It holds my large yeti water bottle or can of spray glass cleaner, etc.

[GTBradley]

I’ll second that on the small triangle area. I didn’t think it would be useful for anything, but I use for the exact same things.

[Yama-Bro]

Looking good, you did a nice job on those side panels. I see that you did not leave the small triangle area open in the drop trunk. I have to tell you, I use that little area a lot. It holds my large yeti water bottle or can of spray glass cleaner, etc.


I’ll second that on the small triangle area. I didn’t think it would be useful for anything, but I use for the exact same things.

Hmmm...I didn't even think of that, but I can see what you are saying. Thanks for the tip!

[Yama-Bro]

Quick little task...I drilled and cleco'ed the firewall extension to the frame. I lost the original one and had to get a replacement from Factory five. I looked all over for the original, but couldn't find it. I'm sure the it will turn up in a box of parts when I'm almost done with the car.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50299819902_a0dfd59461_k.jpg

[Yama-Bro]

Last night was a beautiful night for working on a project car. My friend Lance and I dove into installing the roll bars. I'm going to have two, but the passenger side will be removable. I've read some horror stories on here about these being difficult to install, but these went in perfect...well, besides the part when we realized I have two driver's side roll bars instead of a driver's side and a passenger side. Time to call FFR for a replacement. :p The only bummer was we had to take the roll bar off to get the body buck to roll over the top of the car for storage. I drilled the two front bolts front to back with the car. It seemed like the easiest way to remove the bolts when the body is in place. Not shown in the pics is the back bolt. It goes in at an angle for easy access to the head and also the nut on the front side.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50391629503_8f1fac9ae2_k.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50391629473_7ad324d037_k.jpg

[Yama-Bro]

The second roll bar is in! We received the replacement from FFR Thursday. Unfortunately, this one didn't slip right on like the others, but it was still easily installed with a little muscles. Again, I'm planning to make this removable.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50409811123_669f2f3866_k.jpg

[Yama-Bro]

I added foot box vents to the build today. They are opened and closed by a cable pulls on the dash. These vents are reproductions of the vents used in the MGs and Austin Healeys (and ACs). I ordered the vents straight from the England manufacturer, Ashley Hinton.

This is the driver's side. This side was a little tricky as there are a lot of things going on in this small space, but I got it to work. I need to add a rubber grommet where the cable passes thru the aluminum panel of the footbox...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50577829361_09e95c8573_k.jpg

This is the passenger side. After I installed this, I realized this is going to be tough to get to and adjust once the body is installed. I'm going to have to figure out a way to reverse the mounting features so I can get to the fasteners from the engine side. It would have been better if there was a left and right side version.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50577963577_a0fa502c1c_k.jpg

[John Ibele]

Good progress, Frank. I'll look forward to an update on how the vents work out when you have them done. I haven't committed to a direction here yet.

[copythat]

We made a heat shield for the brake lines. It accomplishes a few things. It's main purpose to is protect the brake line from exhaust header heat, but it also has a tab bent on the bottom that protects the area where the brake line bends under the cockpit from rocks coming off the tires. Thirdly, it provides another layer of heat insulation for the driver's foot box. We used to use simple sheet metal heat shields like this, on generators at a previous place of employment. They were highly effective. Its mostly due to the layer of air between the hot item and the item you are trying to protect. Not really the heat shield itself.

Cody doing some cutting. After cutting we formed the part with our sheet metal brake.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50158993072_b0a82fe2d1_k.jpg

1" standoffs mounted to the front of the driver's side footbox. These are to space the heat shield out away from the footbox.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50158742351_cc316d78b3_k.jpg

I covered the heat shield with a layer of Thermo Tec's Cool It reflective heat barrier. It reflects up to 2000 degrees of radiant heat. Should do the job.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50158205053_5bf1e8064e_k.jpg

Final product mounted in place. The exhaust header will go directly in front of this shield, within and inch or two. If needed I can shorten the standoffs.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50158756526_4c573457a2_k.jpg

This is great. It does not interfere with anything?

[Yama-Bro]

Good progress, Frank. I'll look forward to an update on how the vents work out when you have them done. I haven't committed to a direction here yet.

Thanks! I'll let you know how they work out.

[Yama-Bro]

This is great. It does not interfere with anything?

So far, no. I haven't installed the engine with the headers yet to confirm that, but according to measurements that I received from other builders, I should have enough space. If it would hit or if it is to close for comfort, I can get shorter standoffs and bring the heatshield closer to the footbox.

[tmlint]

I added foot box vents to the build today. They are opened and closed by a cable pulls on the dash. These vents are reproductions of the vents used in the MGs and Austin Healeys (and ACs). I ordered the vents straight from the England manufacturer, Ashley Hinton.

This is the driver's side. This side was a little tricky as there are a lot of things going on in this small space, but I got it to work. I need to add a rubber grommet where the cable passes thru the aluminum panel of the footbox...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50577829361_09e95c8573_k.jpg

This is the passenger side. After I installed this, I realized this is going to be tough to get to and adjust once the body is installed. I'm going to have to figure out a way to reverse the mounting features so I can get to the fasteners from the engine side. It would have been better if there was a left and right side version.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50577963577_a0fa502c1c_k.jpg

Are the Ashley Hinton dampers 3" in diameter?

[Yama-Bro]

Are the Ashley Hinton dampers 3" in diameter?

Yes, or at least very close. I believe the inside diameter is right around 3 3/16" when measured with a tape measure. I can get a more precise measurement with a pair of calipers, if you would like.

[Yama-Bro]

I added heat shielding to the firewall. It probably would have been easier to do before everything was attached to the frame, but I managed to get it installed by adhering it to the wall in smaller sections vs one big piece. I bought the heat barrier insulation from Summit. It is Thermo-Tec 13585. It has adhesive on one side, a thin layer of silica insulating mat and the reflective foil on the top. It isn't as heavy or thick as some of the barriers out there, but I think it offers a good balance between heat reflection and weight. I plan to use this for a the cockpit too. For best adhesion, you have to run a roller over it.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50601401026_7e2dee9d83_k.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50601401016_62456381c5_k.jpg

[tmlint]

Yes, or at least very close. I believe the inside diameter is right around 3 3/16" when measured with a tape measure. I can get a more precise measurement with a pair of calipers, if you would like.

No need to put calipers on it. 3 3/16" is close enough. I went ahead and purchased a pair. Thanks

[Yama-Bro]

I completed another small task. I made a little bracket that goes behind the dash that solves two problems. One of the problems is that I made the hole in the dash for the key switch just a wee bit oversized, so the switch will rotate when you turn the key. The other problem is when you press the horn button the dash flexes. I've noticed this on other Factory Fives, it's due to the thin dash material. The flexing drives me nuts. If I ever redo the dash it will be made of thicker material. This bracket has a tight hole that is keyed to capture the switch, then another hole to capture the horn button. This locks the key switch in place so it can't rotate. The bracket also has a 90 degree bend, that once sandwiched between the dash and switch /horn button, it adds stiffness to that area of the dash. Problems solved. :o

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50694105912_32f050b17f_k.jpg

[GTBradley]

I added heat shielding to the firewall. It probably would have been easier to do before everything was attached to the frame, but I managed to get it installed by adhering it to the wall in smaller sections vs one big piece. I bought the heat barrier insulation from Summit. It is Thermo-Tec 13585. It has adhesive on one side, a thin layer of silica insulating mat and the reflective foil on the top. It isn't as heavy or thick as some of the barriers out there, but I think it offers a good balance between heat reflection and weight. I plan to use this for a the cockpit too. For best adhesion, you have to run a roller over it.


Nice find on the Thermo-Tec 13585, I would have used that if I'd known about it. The Thermo-Tec I used added 40 pounds total to the car and I would have been interested in cutting that down. Better yet, the lack of the annoying branding printed all over the mat. I know most of it it gets covered up, but it still gets me how they insist on plastering their name all over our cars. Yours looks nice and clean.

[shark92651]

I completed another small task. I made a little bracket that goes behind the dash that solves two problems. One of the problems is that I made the hole in the dash for the key switch just a wee bit oversized, so the switch will rotate when you turn the key. The other problem is when you press the horn button the dash flexes. I've noticed this on other Factory Fives, it's due to the thin dash material. The flexing drives me nuts. If I ever redo the dash it will be made of thicker material. This bracket has a tight hole that is keyed to capture the switch, then another hole to capture the horn button. This locks the key switch in place so it can't rotate. The bracket also has a 90 degree bend, that once sandwiched between the dash and switch /horn button, it adds stiffness to that area of the dash. Problems solved. :o


Nice simple solution. My ignition switch rotates and I want to find a way to fix that, but my car is complete. I'm going to see if I can find an appropriate sized lock washer to slip in behind it.

[Yama-Bro]

Nice find on the Thermo-Tec 13585, I would have used that if I'd known about it. The Thermo-Tec I used added 40 pounds total to the car and I would have been interested in cutting that down. Better yet, the lack of the annoying branding printed all over the mat. I know most of it it gets covered up, but it still gets me how they insist on plastering their name all over our cars. Yours looks nice and clean.

I never really thought of the branding part of it, but I do like how this is plain. You could have it exposed and it wouldn't look out of place.

[Yama-Bro]

Nice simple solution. My ignition switch rotates and I want to find a way to fix that, but my car is complete. I'm going to see if I can find an appropriate sized lock washer to slip in behind it.

Depending on how closed in the bottom of your dash is and what other features are in the proximity of the key switch, I think what I did could easily be added to a finished car. Then again a oversized lock washer might be a lot easier. :D

[Yama-Bro]

I have the next part of my drivetrain in my garage...the transmission! I picked up this bad boy Tremec TKO-600 from BluePrint Engines. This tranny is good for 600ftlb of torque and has three different locations the shifter can be mounted. Mine is mounted in the rear position to replicate the original car's shifter location. All Tremec TKOs are 5 speeds, but they have different options for the 5th gear ratio. I went with the .82 ratio 5th gear, which makes the transmission more of a close ratio vs an over drive. This works better for road course racing, but not as good for cruising down the interstate. If you need an engine and tranny combo, give BluePrint a call. BluePrint Engines sells these mated to an engine of your choice. We will be transitioning from the TKO to the new TKX soon. Just contact our sales team at 800-483-4263 to get hooked up. Or check out the link below for more info...
https://factoryfiveengines.com/?fbclid=IwAR3PpGxk7WVdCopEp1hk0mog1cC0rhdxaF7XMisg nAVW9RbFgCV8Eg7ZU5o


After bringing mine home l decided to have some upgrades done to it, so I sent it to Liberty's Gears in Michigan. They specialize in hot-rodding transmissions. They have several tricks up their sleeves to make the TKO even better than it already is. I called them and discussed my plans for my car and they gave me their suggestions on what would work best for my situation. TKOs are known to be notchy when shifting and under hard acceleration can be difficult to get into 3rd and 4th gear. Of course, Liberty has a fix for that too. Here's what they did to mine:
-Carbon Fiber blocking Rings
-Bronze shift fork pads
-Top cover linkage upgrade
-Main shift finger upgrade
-Shot peened the gear set
-Surface enhanced the gear set

And now I'm waiting for the engine...which is coming soon. It's been a long wait, but I promise you a story to go along with it that only a few people in the world could ever tell.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50776943348_e8bb91251c_k.jpg

[460.465USMC]

Congrats, Yama-Bro! I recently received my TKO600, but from Forte. I'm swapping the rear shift cover 180 deg., and adding a "bent" shift handle (also from Forte) that moves it forward another couple inches, making it pretty close to the mid-shift position.

Looking forward to hearing your engine story! You've been waiting a long time for it. Still following your build. Thanks!

[Yama-Bro]

Congrats, Yama-Bro! I recently received my TKO600, but from Forte. I'm swapping the rear shift cover 180 deg., and adding a "bent" shift handle (also from Forte) that moves it forward another couple inches, making it pretty close to the mid-shift position.


Nice! I have one of the shift shafts that bend forward that has the mock brake lockout. I should've dug out for the picture.

[Yama-Bro]

This was a nice Christmas gift from my parents. Its a billet aluminum bezel to finish off the hole in the dash for the steering shaft. This came from Michael Everson at replicaparts.com. This pressed right into the hole and stays in place. It's a nice fit with the vinyl sandwiched between the dash and the bezel. Easiest upgrade yet.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50776943303_bf38bb0621_k.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50776943358_033fb3cbdd_k.jpg

[Yama-Bro]

Back in the saddle again...Connected the dash wiring harness to the dash.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51125486900_796d1effe0_k.jpg

It was starting to look like a rats nest about halfway thru. I opted to solder all the butt connection joints vs the crimp on connectors.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51124589828_6db627b4df_k.jpg

The end product. It doesn't look as clean as some of them I've seen on here, but it's not the worst either. I think it'll work. ;)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51125485335_4831d519f5_k.jpg

[John Ibele]

Hey, great to see you back at it, Frank. Your dash wiring looks nice and neat. I just got done with my first round of dash wiring and got to hook it up to to the main harness and see the dash lights go on over the weekend. Very rewarding. I'll need to do a second pass to clean things up as well as yours.

[BadAsp427]

That dash looks really nice. Just a tip that I found needed to be done. Try to leave enough wire that you can reach up behind the dash, unscrew the gauge ring and pull the gauge out, disconnect it at the connection plugs and then put it back in. This way, when it goes bad, you can send it back to speed hut and replace it easily. If you do this, you will never have a gauge go bad and never have to use it. But, if you don't, you will be replacing them all the time and cutting wire ties blind is not fun. ;)

[Blitzboy54]

That dash looks really nice. Just a tip that I found needed to be done. Try to leave enough wire that you can reach up behind the dash, unscrew the gauge ring and pull the gauge out, disconnect it at the connection plugs and then put it back in. This way, when it goes bad, you can send it back to speed hut and replace it easily. If you do this, you will never have a gauge go bad and never have to use it. But, if you don't, you will be replacing them all the time and cutting wire ties blind is not fun. ;)

This made me chuckle

[Yama-Bro]

This made me chuckle

Haha, Me too, but he's probably 100% right. ;)

[Yama-Bro]

A little behind on my posts. I've been working on some tedious tasks on my car. Just gotta muscle thru these. I planned out and routed the heater controls thru the firewall, routed and installed the defrost and heat ducts and mounted the switches for the seat heaters. All l know is I've installed and uninstalled this dash so many times, you'd think I'd get faster at it at some point. :p I also got a start on the emergency brake cables.

Passenger side ducting...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51224376537_68b272ae36_k.jpg

Driver's side ducting. It's really starting to get tight behind the dash...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51225296013_cb2d1b745c_k.jpg

Seat heater switches. I had holes for these already, unfortunately the holes were too small, so I had to enlarge them.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51225295943_cfb80d6903_k.jpg

[Mark Eaton]

Looking good Frank, hang in there !

[Yama-Bro]

The cobra now has a working parking brake system! There was a lot of customization to this step. To start, since I used Wilwood rear brakes, I had to come up with a cable system since the OEM Ford stuff doesn't work with it. I went for the Wilwood universal e-brake cables. Those cables perfectly attach to the drum style ebrakes of my Wilwoods. Another bit of customizing was with the cable routing. Factory Five routes the cable under the frame. I didn't like that because it leaves the cables exposed to damage from road debris, or maybe even speed bumps. I followed along with the popular modification to change the routing to go over the frame using some pulleys from McMaster Carr. Finally, my braking lever mechanism was rubbing on the mounting hardware, so I extended the arm to avoid that.

Here's the cable attached to the Wilwoods. The Wilwood brakes are discs, but they utilize an internal drum parking brake.
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The non painted straps of steel are my extensions of the brake lever. I just used some fasteners I had to prove the design. I will tear it back apart and replace the fasteners with proper parts and paint the extensions.
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These are the McMaster Carr pulleys and fasteners I used to get the cable routed over the frame. It took some careful placement to miss the passenger side floor, but it works perfect once in place.
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The is looking up from underneath the car into the tranny tunnel, towards the passenger side of the car. You can see the bottom of the brake lever, pulley, cables, where the cables attach to the frame and enter the sleeving. Note how the bottom of the lever is still tucked up nicely above the bottom of the frame, even with the extension. Also, note how the cable connection points (gold parts) clear the fastening hardware for the lever, that is directly above them. I know some builders let these parts rub without issues, but I just felt better making sure they didn't touch. It may have worked fine, but with my luck I'd be the first person that had a nasty vibration related noise from letting the rub. :D
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[460.465USMC]

Good idea on the extension of the brake lever. I see it provides nice clearance. Looking good.

[Yama-Bro]

This post has been in the making for a long time, and I am thrilled to finally get to share it. I promised a one-of-a-kind engine story awhile back, so I hope this delivers…


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The story began a few years back at BluePrint Engines. It was becoming a challenge to obtain a steady supply of quality seasoned OEM Ford 302 blocks. The source of decent used blocks was drying up and we were experiencing shortages. This is not a big deal as an individual or a small shop building one or two engines, but when you build as many engines per day as BluePrint does, you need a constant resource to keep up with the demand. We looked at sourcing blocks from reputable performance block manufacturers, like Ford Performance, Dart Machinery, and World. While they all make decent products, it was cost prohibitive for us to go that route. The best way to keep our costs low is to design and source our own components, so we decided to do just that and create our own version of the small block Ford block, just like we have already done with the small and big block Chevy blocks. This, as you can imagine, was no small undertaking. It would require an investment of close to $1 million dollars in tooling and would take over a year of time to develop. If you do not already know, I am one of the design engineers at BluePrint Engines. Being that I was in process of building my own Factory Five Roadster, I was more than willing to take on this project. As the project was ramping up, Norris, the owner of BluePrint, stuck his head in my office and made me an offer that really stepped up the game…he told me that I could have the very first of the new blocks to put in my car. How cool is that? If there is a better way to challenge an engineer to get it right the first time, I have yet to hear it!

So, the design process began. We wanted our block to have everything that the OEM Ford block has, plus a ton of upgrades to make it stronger, more robust, and more feature laden than anything else out there. We started by 3D scanning and probing every nook and cranny of an OEM ford block using our Faro arm. This gave us a starting point for locations of features such as mounting holes, machined faces, cast bosses, oil galleries, clearance notches, etc. We wanted to make sure all the mounting points are where they are supposed to be for compatibility with OEM and aftermarket parts.

Scanning the OEM Ford 302...
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Complete 3D scanned block...
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We looked at Ford aftermarket blocks and modern production blocks from other vehicles to determine what enhancements would be useful to our customers. Along with common block improvements, we also devised several original changes of our own to make our block the best of them all. Some of the changes include…
-Greatly increased main webbing
-Thicker deck
-General increase in cast wall thickness to handle over 500hp
-Extra ribs to strengthen bell housing area
-Option for Siamese and wet water jackets
-Large max bore of 4.20” in the Siamese block
-Splayed bolt inner main caps
-Upsized main cap bolts
-Clearance for stroker cranks
-Ability to machine for ½” head bolts
-Blind head bolt holes
-Provisions to machine for LS style piston oilers if we would desire to add this in the future
-Head bolts bosses tie in with superstructure of block (much like GM’s LS design). With this we can, if desired, machine for long “anchored” head bolts (also like the LS and many modern blocks)
-Clearance for aftermarket motor mounts (does not require grinding block or mounts to fit properly)
-Machined to accept double roller timing chains

[Yama-Bro]

After doing a bunch of research and solidifying our design criteria, I got to work creating a 3D model using our 3D design software, SolidWorks. Using the data we gathered from the 3D scanned and probed block files, I was able to recreate all OEM features along with all of our improvements. This process was spread out over a period of several months. The following screen shots capture the progress....

The humble beginnings of the block model. Starting with the crank centerline, cylinder bores, and water jacket...
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Adding lifter bosses, pan rails, and more structure...
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Added the timing face area, bellhousing, and oil filter feature...
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Added lots of little details here...
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All machined features added to the model (colored orange)...
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Section view of finished model thru center of block...
Check out that beefy main webbing! This won't be cracking in half like an OEM Ford does with over 500 HP!
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Section view of finished model water jacket...
Notice the head bolt bosses run all the way thru the water jackets down to the main webs of the block, much like an LS block
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[nucjd19]

What an amazing story!!!!! I am sort of sad my BPE 347 stroker is pre BPE engine block. I have followed your build before my rig was even delivered and has always been informative and fun. Thank you for sharing and I can't wait to here it fire up!

[Yama-Bro]

What an amazing story!!!!! I am sort of sad my BPE 347 stroker is pre BPE engine block. I have followed your build before my rig was even delivered and has always been informative and fun. Thank you for sharing and I can't wait to here it fire up!

Thanks! You'll hear it running soon, I have a bunch more to post up on this story, so stay tuned!

[Yama-Bro]

Once the 3D modeling wrapped up, it was time to prove that it was accurate. The best way to do this is with a physical prototype, and the most cost-effective way is with our in-house 3D printer. The only problem is our 3D printer is not big enough to do the whole block at once. To overcome this, we split the block CAD model into four separate pieces before sending the files to the printer. The 3D printing process took a total of 21 days (24 hours a day) for all four parts. Once completed, we doweled and epoxied the quadrants to make the block a solid unit. To finish it off, we tapped all the holes by hand.

A portion of the block in the 3D Printer...
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The 3D printed quadrants...
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Clamping and epoxy 3/4...
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Clamping and epoxy full block...
Disregard the greenish colored quadrant. I let it sit in the solvent tank over the weekend, which was a little too long. :eek:
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