Engine Dropping Preference

[JOP33]

I'd like to get some opinions from those that had a lift and jack stands available to them at the time they installed their engine, what was the preference on installation? Installing on jack stands or installing on the lift? What were the pros or cons?

Thanks

[NAZ]

I have a four-post lift and have used it along with my cherry picker to install and remove the engine / trans in my 33HR three times now. Next week when I reinstall the combo for the last time (fingers crossed) I will use the lift and cherry picker again. It's the easiest way short of having someone else install your engine. The lift gets the car high enough the cherry picker roll under the chassis easily but it's not too high to be comfortable working on it. If I had to use jack stands my back and knees would be complaining (too many back and knee injuries when I was young and dumb). The real trick no matter what you use to lift the engine with is the attachment device you bolt to the engine to lift with. I use one that bolts to the carb mounting point on the intake manifold. It has an articulating arm about 8" or 10" in length and an acme threaded adjuster so you can change the lifting center and thus the angle of the engine / trans combo while installing or removing to work around shocks and other obstacles. Using this device I can install and remove the engine / trans by myself but it is easier to have a spotter help.

[GoDadGo]

1. I don't have an engine hoist, nor do I have a lift.
2. My easy "Swamp Land Method" is to simply raise the rear of the car and roll it under the drive line.
3. It's a simple method and works with just about any car, as long as you can roll it under your engine.
4. Wheel Dollys on the rear increase maneuverability and stability over a floor jack, especially with our very light Factory Fives.
5. 15 minutes is all it took.

https://youtu.be/3f1Q4aS5SG4

https://youtu.be/jiwelvNHUrk

https://youtu.be/UJwM5godh88

[CVOBill]

With the Coyote engine it was easier for me to raise the rear of the car and have the engine and trans on less of an angle. Once it was close I put a jack under the transmission and raised it to get the mounts to line up.

[wrp]

I just pulled and replaced my motor. I left the transmission in place when I pulled it. Really wasn't a bad problem at all. Of course I was not fooling around with adjusting mounting brackets etc. I used the jack stands and a very skinny high school kid to pretty good effect.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ClffREDI4IM&t=66s

[wrp]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CPIoIGhVT-k

[DarthTedious]

I had the car (SBC, TKO 500) up a bit on my lift and used an engine lift, however, 2 things nearly made it not happen:

1. The angle required to get it in maxed out my leveler and required some manual pushing then lifting of the transmission to get it in
2. The suspension, grill, radiator on the front meant that my engine lift's reach was not long enough without some manual pulling as well.

I did it before I had much panels in place, so access wasn't a big issue.

[NAZ]

The engine is much easier to install through the front without the grill / radiator assembly. For those just building you 33HR, consider using wire connectors on the lights, fan, and temp sensor (and anything else on that assembly) to facilitate easy removal of the grill / radiator assembly. I know, you don't ever plan to pull the engine once its in there but it's only a bit more upfront work and you'll be happy you did it if you ever do have to pull the engine & trans.

My plan all along is to make servicing easy and my Plan-B is a BBC or Powerglide or both if I want to go quicker or decide to ditch the faceplated TKO 600. So I used Weather Pack connectors on all the electrical making it easy to remove the grill / radiator assembly. Using an articulating lifting adapter makes engine install / removal and one-man operation with no radiator in the way. I also was careful routing my wiring and fuel lines to make plenty of room for pulling the engine. Something to consider in your build plan.

[Brave Salmon]

I am going to pull the stock 351w/AOD combo and replace if with a bit more hp and stronger transfer sticking with the aod. Now that the car is painted, I will be doing this project without removing the grill/radiator assy to save the hassle of getting it lined up again. And yeah, I know about klecos and alignment holes. Been there and done that.
Question is, with the car on stands with rear as high as possible and the proper lifting rig, can this be done with limited risk to the car and powertrain? I would prefer to remove both motor and transfer at one time. If you've done this please respond with your thoughts. Many thanks..tom

[TDSapp]

I am going to pull the stock 351w/AOD combo and replace if with a bit more hp and stronger transfer sticking with the aod. Now that the car is painted, I will be doing this project without removing the grill/radiator assy to save the hassle of getting it lined up again. And yeah, I know about klecos and alignment holes. Been there and done that.
Question is, with the car on stands with rear as high as possible and the proper lifting rig, can this be done with limited risk to the car and powertrain? I would prefer to remove both motor and transfer at one time. If you've done this please respond with your thoughts. Many thanks..tom



I have done this using just jack stands and I will say that you really want to remove the grill\radiator. Doing with the grill in place makes you have to lift the engine super high. Then you have to really have an extreme angle on the engine and transmission when putting it in. It was really not worth the effort to do it around the grill.


Tim

[NAZ]

I'm on my second engine now and have R&R'd the engine / trans several times. I won't even entertain the idea of pulling the engine with the radiator in place -- way too much work for an old guy like me.

[Brave Salmon]

Hey Naz, I sent you a pm week ago of so. Check if out when you can, thanks, tom