Tampa33Build

[Tampa33Build]

Been slacking on starting my build thread, thought I would get it up to date

23 July 2017
#1013 Rainy delivery day
Inventory completed. IRS center section and spindles, gauge clusters, sound insulation kit, and front suspension parts back ordered
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18 August 2017
Frame back from powder coating
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27 August 2017
Floor panels, fire wall, driveshaft tunnel, lower waterfall drilled.
Glove box cutout and fitted.
Wanted to thank kraftee again for finding the mold and having the glove box made for me.
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[wallace18]

Frame looks amazing!

[Tampa33Build]

Thanks,
Pro Coat Performance Coating of Tampa did a great job. The day I dropped it off their compressor went down and it took an extra week to complete it, but the wait was worth it.

[kraftee]

The red frame looks way cool! And you're most welcome for the glovebox. When you get closer to that point, glad to send pics of how I installed mine. Looking forward to following your build!

ERIC

[Tampa33Build]

It has been sometime since I had a chance to work on the 33. Grandkids, Daughters, and work always seem to have precedence.

I finished installing the IRS and it does not appear correctly mounted to the front IRS mounts. I installed the 31/16" sleeves in the front IRS mounting polyurethane bushings per the manual page 82. These sleeves appear to be too long. With the bolts torqued to 100ft lbs the sleeves cause a gap between the IRS mounts and the bushing. Shouldn’t the IRS mounts be tight against the polyurethane bushings or is this normal? To have them tight against the bushings would require shorter sleeves, this might add additional stress on the IRS mounting brackets.
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[Tampa33Build]

Received the correct RS bushings from FFR. Have to say they have been great at sending items that were missing or incorrect. Completed the break lines as much as I can while waiting on the Whitby power brake kit. Used one of the 20 inch FFR lines to get the correct bends as a model and then transferred to a brake line to be installed. Straightened the 20 inch section back out and repeated for the next section.

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[AJT '33]

And i thought i was going to town in getting my stuff painted!! Looks amazing!

[Dodgeman]

AJT,
What type of fasteners are you using to hold the brake tubing to frame?

Thanks, Bob

[Tampa33Build]

Thanks,
Procoat of Tampa did an amazing job on the frame. I purchased a powder coat system and did the smaller parts that fit in a toaster oven. Made a makeshift coating box out of PVC pipe and cardboard. Still learning, but not as hard as I thought.

[Tampa33Build]

Dodgeman,

I used the FFR fasteners supplied with the build.

Neil

[AJT '33]

AJT,
What type of fasteners are you using to hold the brake tubing to frame?

Thanks, Bob

I will be using the fasteners from FFR as well.

Andreas

[Mick Scarborough]

You're in Lutz? I'm in Northdale. I'd love to see your build.

[Tampa33Build]

Mick

No problem, just finished fitting the doors. Trunk an Hood are next.

Neil

[Tampa33Build]

Completed the body, door, hood and trunk fitment.
Removed the body this week and installed Whitby's power brake kit

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[Tampa33Build]

Engine and transmission installed today
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One setback today the Sanderson headers CC17-SEC I installed will not work. The right side is too close to the firewall. Sanderson is going to mount a CC16 to an engine Monday to see if the dimensions I gave them will work with my Blueprint SBC 400 Vortec engine. The manual states to use Summit Racing SUM-G9005 or Flowtech 11102 however they are not available in ceramic.

Hindsight would have been to install the headers after installing the engine.
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[RoadRacer]

looks great! fyi, the first two engine images don't seem to be working..

[Mick Scarborough]

So what tranny did you go with? We are trying to decide between the AOD, AODE and the 4R70W. AN older thread I read said the 4R70W did not fit and our car is an early kit. Something about the electronics pack. Not sure if there is a dimensional difference between the AODE and the 4R70W. Whichever we get must handle 600 hp.

[Mick Scarborough]

Oops never mind. You are using a GM motor.

[Tampa33Build]

Went with a 700R4, did not want a standard.

[wrp]

Red really pops, looking great :)

[TDSapp]

The manual states to use Summit Racing SUM-G9005 or Flowtech 11102 however they are not available in ceramic.


May not have mattered any way. If you read their fine print they will not warranty the powder coated headers when using them to break in a new motor. Yours looks new so it might get the PC too hot during the first run and when getting the timing set.

I bought the Summit painted headers for $119 to use during my break in and am just planning on getting them powder coated at a later time.

[TxMike64]

Completed the body, door, hood and trunk fitment.
Removed the body this week and installed Whitby's power brake kit

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Nice! That's the same setup and install method I'm considering: Whitby Power Brake kit and use braided lines from the MC down to the hard lines.

[Tampa33Build]

Added spacer to the motor mounts to move the Blueprint 400 SBC back 1/2" to clear the steering rack. 87262 87264

I did not like the FFR provided round spacers for the 700R4 transmission mount, so I milled out a new mount from an aluminum bar to raise the transmission the same spacing with mounting bolts to the transmission mount and transmission bracket.
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FFR shipped the wrong driveshaft with the kit, contacted Dan and had the correct driveshaft for the IRS in two days. Great service!

[wallace18]

Looking Good!

[Tampa33Build]

Had to take a few weekends off from the 33 and paint the outside of the house before the HOA issued a violation. It has been 12 years since the house was built and it needed it.

Exhaust installed for the second time. I moved it from the between the V frame and the shock to inside the IRS V frame.

[OnlyAndy]

Nice job, very nice. My 33' kit is on order but I have a 1000 questions running around in my head and your pic's offer some answers. I also have SBC going in and same general configuration as you. I want to run a Taller air cleaner like yours ( not the little skinny 2" ) and am concerned about hood clearance. Looks like there will be. THEN FF5 tells me I will have to run a short water pump for steer clearance but you seem to have enough room even with a ribbed belt. Then,,, I have the same Mental header issue you are having. I really don't want a painted version that will look like crap down the road.. I still have time to ponder all this. Thx from Yucaipa CA.

[Tampa33Build]

Vintage AC and hoses installed

[JimLev]

Nice job Tamps33. I'm getting ready to install the AC and heater lines. Is there enough room between the frame and body to run the 4 lines outside of the frame?
Are you going to insulate the exhaust pipes before and after the muffler?

[Tampa33Build]

OnlyAndy,

Thanks, I had to move the Blueprint 400 SBC back 1/2" to clear the electric steering. I tried Sanderson headers after sending them the measurements. They were extremely helpful however the passengers side did not fit. They recommended changing it out however I decided to go with Summit headers and sent them to Jet Hot for coating. The people on this forum are great, review all the builds you can while you are waiting on delivery.

Neil

[Tampa33Build]

JimLev,

I took the chance that there is enough clearance for the 4 lines. If not I may have a re-do, been there before. I did not plan on insulating the exhaust. May add with a second layer of Dynamat and Dynaliner with the FFR heat/sound shield.

Neil

[Indigo808]

Nice looking SBC build. Good to have some other builders close. I sent you a PM with my contact info. I am building a SBC 383. Good to know about the headers

[peterh226]

I'm looking at the Blueprint 383 with EFI. Wondering about headers as well. Also, what are you doing for the fuel pump? FFR EFI option or something based on the Botd tank?

[Tampa33Build]

I currently have the FFR tank with the in tank EFI pump. I have been looking at the Boyd and new FFR tank, just have not convinced myself it is worth the extra money. Also as pointed out by Indigo88 an in tank fuel pump requires removing the body to replace it. The Blueprint engine comes with a holly sniper EFI and an external fuel pump, so I already have an external EFI fuel pump. I'm very happy with the Summit headers coated by Jethot.

[Tampa33Build]

Wiring has taken longer than I planned. Gauges installed for go-carting. Waiting on wheel and tire delivery for first start. Ordered them the end of October, they are scheduled for delivery on 29 Dec.
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Installed charcoal canister, closed off all ports except one going to a vapor canister purge valve. This should keep any fumes out when parked in the garage. Currently purge valve is open when ignition is on, I may add a switch once body is on to allow fueling without the ignition on.
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Kill switch installed in glove box
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E-Stopp installed, works great and frees up passenger space.
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[60's Kid]

Where did you get the glove box?

[Tampa33Build]

60's Kid,

"Kraftee" dug his mold he created for his 33 out and made one for me, you can PM Eric and see if he still has the mold.

I know he had his 33 up for sale and may not be on the forum any longer.

[Tampa33Build]

First start today - with new external fuel pump. I started it two weeks ago, however after about 10 minutes it stalled and would not restart. Internal FFR EFI fuel pump ran and pumped gas however no pressure reading on the fuel pressure gauge. I removed the in FFR tank fuel pump and added the external fuel pump that came with the Holly Sniper EFI.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dvLFkuouS_SZnaHL9X7Mr1BdUcGAseVz/view?usp=sharing

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[JOP33]

First start today - with new external fuel pump. I started it two weeks ago, however after about 10 minutes it stalled and would not restart. Internal FFR EFI fuel pump ran and pumped gas however no pressure reading on the fuel pressure gauge. I removed the in FFR tank fuel pump and added the external fuel pump that came with the Holly Sniper EFI.


https://www.facebook.com/neil.wheaton.71/videos/pcb.1143419399170007/1143418859170061/?type=3&theater
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Beautiful build! Congratulations.

[FF33rod]

Looks fantastic. Love the chassis colour and the wheels are great!
The facebook link didn't work for me, maybe you need to change the video permissions to "public".

[Tampa33Build]

Thank you, Could not have done it without this forum and all the great FFR members

Please try this link
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dvLFkuouS_SZnaHL9X7Mr1BdUcGAseVz/view?usp=sharing

[FF33rod]

The google link worked, sounds amazing. Makes me want to sit down and blip the throttle a few times!

Really like the steel braided hoses you used for heater and A/C, would you mind passing along the source?

thx, Steve

[Tampa33Build]

Steve,

I used "SSL0.75SV - Flexo SS XC - High Coverage Stainless Steel Expandable Sleeving - 3/4"" and "SSL0.38SV - Flexo SS XC - High Coverage Stainless Steel Expandable Sleeving - 3/8"" from WireCare.com. I sealed each end with Dual-Wall 3:1 Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Tubing.

Neil

[Mrallsport32]

Neil, very nice build. I’m building chassis #1121 right now. I was wondering if you could tell me what water pump you have. Short or long? I see you spaced the engine back 1/2”. I want to place my alternator low in front of the head like you did. I’m also using a sbc 400 with 700R 4.
Thanks.
And again your attention to the details in your build look fantastic.

[Tampa33Build]

Mrallsport32,

Thank you,
It came installed on the BluePrint 400 SBC engine. It is a March performance P112 short, reverse rotation water pump. The complete package is a March performance 21100.

[DS9941]

Looks great

[colsen23153]

Added spacer to the motor mounts to move the Blueprint 400 SBC back 1/2" to clear the steering rack. 87262 87264

I did not like the FFR provided round spacers for the 700R4 transmission mount, so I milled out a new mount from an aluminum bar to raise the transmission the same spacing with mounting bolts to the transmission mount and transmission bracket.
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FFR shipped the wrong driveshaft with the kit, contacted Dan and had the correct driveshaft for the IRS in two days. Great service!

I am getting the 383 from BluePrint and I didn't ask at build school what size spacer I should use. Thanks for the info. Looks good.
Cliff

[Tampa33Build]

Completed drivers door power windows today utilized T Collins frame instructions/drawings. Modified the top slightly.

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Installed side vents

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Split Engine side cover to allow removal leaving headlights attached. Fiber-glassed aluminum angles with riv-nuts into the cut line. Reinforced the headlight section with additional fiberglass. Installed brass bushings to mount the headlights, the headlights are bolted in with original hardware and two split washers on the back side. This allows removal with connector attached. Loosen the headlight bolt, slip washers off wires, remove headlight, bushings and wires with connector.

[Tampa33Build]

Have not posted for a while, researching and looking for reputable body shop and an operation. Decided to go with "The Rod Shop" and been waiting for spot to open. Will be picked up Tuesday.

Since I had some time I ditch the RF wiring mess and installed the Infinity Box with InReserve, great decision what a clean solution to the RF mess. Have to add that Infinity Box's support has been outstanding. Would have been much easier to have gone this route, removing RF wiring and adding the Infinity Box with the body installed did create some challenges and add additional time. I drew out the complete wiring schematic in OrCAD for the system and can provide it in PDF format to anyone interested. It covers the Holley Sniper, Vintage AC, Lights, and Ignition system.

Should note I have the Whitby master cylinder and modified the FFR brake cylinder brackets for the install

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[cob427sc]

Not really understanding the whole electrical stuff (yea, I know its just like pipes with water - heard that alot), it is the weakest of my abilities. Just what does the Infinity system do and why is it superior to a standard wiring harness?

[FF33rod]

Not really understanding the whole electrical stuff (yea, I know its just like pipes with water - heard that alot), it is the weakest of my abilities. Just what does the Infinity system do and why is it superior to a standard wiring harness?

It's a totally different approach to wiring, more computer like with a communication system between "cells". Cells have different functionality from basic inputs (switches go to these) and output (these drive what the switches or relays normally would) to fancy stuff like alarms, remote locks, etc.... Take a look at their web site, the explanations are pretty straight forward at a high level. They have a decent fan club for sure and if I were to start a car from scratch with no wire harness it's probably the way I'd go. IMO though, unless you're adding to or wanting to modify a lot of the RF harness, it's easier to stick with it. But as I said, it's just my opinion ;)

Steve

[Salty Chief 35]

I really like your build. Looks like everything is coming along. I’m just up the road in Brooksville. I hope to do a 33 or 35 truck some day (still couple years away). I do have the motor already though. Let me know if you need a extra hand.
Respectfully,
Jeremie

[Tampa33Build]

Jeremie,

Thank you, it is scheduled to go to the body shop Tuesday. Hopefully when it is done the virus will have subsided.

[Tampa33Build]

Almost ready for paint.
Have to finish the side window frame pillars first. Designing a frame around them as a one piece with rails. CAD being done today, then have inside and outside water jetted from 1/4" steel. The two pieces will be welded together for the channel felt. If all goes as planned it will be chromed and a great improvement, :o if not back to drawing board. :(

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[Tampa33Build]

Dynamat in trunk

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Side window frames completed, hopefully get then test fitted over the next couple days then take them back out to be chrome plated

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[Tampa33Build]

Door window frames almost completed. Frame is removable
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Made the inside panel removable for easy access to chrome felt strips
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[RoadRacer]

Door window frames almost completed. Frame is removable
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Made the inside panel removable for easy access to chrome felt strips
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Dang, that looks great. Nice work.

[1932]

I like that!

[Tampa33Build]

Dash almost completed

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Starting on center console

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Door gaps even

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[FF33rod]

Dash looks fantastic!

Steve

[Tampa33Build]

Looking for suggestions on the best way to seal the gap between hinged top side of door and hardtop (shown with red box)?

Maybe halfmoon rubber like used on the trunk, not sure if it will hold up to the sideways motion of opening and closing the door.

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[Tampa33Build]

Steve,
Thanks,
Still need to decide where to put the e-steer LED, light switch, ignition switch, and E-Stopp Button

Neil

[RoadRacer]

Steve,
Thanks,
Still need to decide where to put the e-steer LED, light switch, ignition switch, and E-Stopp Button

Neil

Looks amazing! I'm putting my light switch to left side of wheel, but your dash is way too pretty. Perhaps up and under the lip?

[FF33rod]

I don't think there is any reason to have the e-steer LED out in the open, it's more of a diagnostics thing. I've mounted it on the fuse panel (facing downward obviously) so I only need to glance up under the dash to see if it's on or has a fault or whatever...
E-Stopp button I'd look for a place on the console...

Steve

[TxMike64]

Dash almost completed
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That dash is AWESOME! Did you form it yourself or start with a pre-formed piece? I was thinking of trying something along these lines, starting with a fiberglass dash from Speedway: speedwaymotors.com/1933-34-Ford-Roadster-Dash (https://www.speedwaymotors.com/1933-34-Ford-Roadster-Dash,1463.html)

[Tampa33Build]

Mike,

Started with the speedway dash in your link and fabricated. Five screws hold it in. Extended the steering wheel column down about an inch, was undecided on making a half moon in dash or extending it. Also had to mold the AC vents in to angle them towards the driver/passenger. Liked the placement in the vertical vs. horizontal.
If all goes well it will flow into the Camaro center console.
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Neil

[JOP33]

Awesome job on the dash mods! :cool:

[sread]

some guys have all the talent - looks great!

[TxMike64]

Mike,

Started with the speedway dash in your link and fabricated. Five screws hold it in. Extended the steering wheel column down about an inch, was undecided on making a half moon in dash or extending it. Also had to mold the AC vents in to angle them towards the driver/passenger. Liked the placement in the vertical vs. horizontal.
If all goes well it will flow into the Camaro center console.
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Neil

Looks great! Was it the correct width?

[Tampa33Build]

TxMike64

Not really a good fit, just a starting point
Wish I could take all the credit. I'm very fortunate to have a high end hot rod shop close by that the owner allows me use of his shop and tools to work on the 33. He has several great 2nd/3rd generation body/paint specialists one that previously restored antiques for a museum. Great bunch of guys, enjoy working with them. He normally has 5-8 projects going and is rapidly building a reputation. Nothing leaves his shop without his approval. My 33 has been there since March and is getting close to the paint stage. Granted it sat several several months waiting on parts to be chromed.

Today I hope to cut the Corvette C6 seats in half, remove 2 inches and put them back together.

Neil

[Tampa33Build]

Corvette C6 power seats cut down the center, 2 inches removed, top lowered, and welded/epoxied back together.
Need to drop them off at an upholstery shop to finish once I decide on interior carpet and leather colors.
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[Tampa33Build]

Getting closer to painting.
Found more cavities when blocking the fenders. This has been a common issue throughout the body preparation.
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Fender lip edges were different, one was wide, one ridge was narrow and wide. They now match and slick sand complete. Next is final blocking and K36 primer.
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[Tampa33Build]

Final Assembly prior to painting. Discovered passengers side between door and hood is at a different angle than the drivers side. Hood was glassed and made symmetrical. The molding lined up with the doors when they were on last, so will have to take some glass off the left side and make it match the driver's side angle.
Need some additional work around the grill also. First time with grill has been on since it was polished.
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Last week noticed the round molding came to a round end on the front of the passenger side hood and the drivers side went all the way to the end. The passengers side now matches the drivers side.
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[Tampa33Build]

Inside of doors and faux wood completed on door panels. Dash still needs a couple more coats of clear.
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Fiber glassed metal inserts for hood left and right hood latch pins, attached pins and aligned to fit latches.
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Removed the tunnel again for third time and fiber glassed indents for the electric seat rails. Thought there was enough room without modifying the tunnel. First time removing was a pain since I had used silicone sealant to seal it when bolting it down. Not so bad removing using Butyl rubber sealant vs. silicone to seal it.

[FF33rod]

Looking great. Looks like an interesting red, details?
Steve

[Tampa33Build]

Brandywine - the color really pops in the sun. This is color for the interior and top half of car, bottom half will be a brighter red. Bike fenders will be Brandywine.
Do not know what was harder choosing rims or color. I had many different test colors sprayed before making a decision. Fortunately where I have the hotrod they allow me to work on it with his techs or alone. The owner worked with me half a day teaching/practicing how to do the faux paint.
Now that the interior colors are done choosing leather color and carpet color is next. I purchased the FFR carpet kit but decided to go with a better quality carpet.

[Tampa33Build]

Received the hood props back from the machine shop, cut and threaded both ends. End on firewall is a quick disconnect. Wanted prop on each side to ensure setting at shows in Florida sun with hood up did not warp hood. Also did not want wind or to accidently hit prop and have hood come down.
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Cut off ball studs from two 10MM ball mounting brackets, drilled and tapped to 10x32. Added a rivnut for each and attached to hood for storage. I did not like the flimsy clip that came with the kit.
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[HotrodMike]

Dash almost completed

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Starting on center console

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Door gaps even

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Your build looks fantastic, love the powder coated frame. Just one question if I may, where did you get your console? Thanks in advance for your time and consideration regarding this request.

[Tampa33Build]

HotRodMike,

It is a 1968 Camaro center console for a 4 speed manual transmission. It has been modified with a double DIN fiber glassed in.

https://www.oerparts.com/product/all-years/chevrolet/camaro/parts/r316805.html

[Tampa33Build]

Inside of hood and trunk painted to match top half of 33s paint color
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All remaining parts painted on edges, body taped up and ready to edge on Monday. Then assemble everything and paint the two colors as one piece.
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[progmgr1]

Love the color! Is that HOK's Candy Brandywine?
Keith HR #894

[Tampa33Build]

Yes it is HOK Candy Brandywine. Really pops in the sun.

[wallace18]

Looking Great!:cool:

[HotrodMike]

HotRodMike,

It is a 1968 Camaro center console for a 4 speed manual transmission. It has been modified with a double DIN fiber glassed in.

https://www.oerparts.com/product/all-years/chevrolet/camaro/parts/r316805.html

Thanks for the info, I will have to check it out. My kit doesn't arrive until June. Till then reading up and following builds yours is by far the most interesting and stellar one I have seen so far. Keep up the good work!

[Tampa33Build]

Body edged, ready to install trunk, hood, & doors then paint

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[JOP33]

If you haven't already, may want to think about spraying some colorized rock guard all the way along the rocker panels. I have seen it done on another 33 & wished I had done it early on with mine - will definitely add to mine when time allows.

[Tampa33Build]

JOP33,

Followed the build school's advice and sprayed rubberized undercoating on them a while back. The RodShop will most likely respray them to match the inside of the side panels.

[Tampa33Build]

Starting paint process. Gold undercoat photo black spots were on painters lens not on the car.
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Bottom color done, super smooth and straight
Top & bike fenders next week
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[wallace18]

Looking Good!:cool:

[JimLev]

I even like that gold undercoat. I wonder how that would look with just clear sprayed on it.

[Tampa33Build]

JimLev,

The painter made the same comment "The HOK Gold would look great on a car"

[Tampa33Build]

After just over a year it is out of paint booth. 17 coats of base, paint & clear in total. Reassembly and interior next.
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Pin striping done
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Added touch to the glove box
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[FF33rod]

Better than Viagra! ;)

[wallace18]

Wow! Looks fantastic! I really like the colors and pinstripes. :cool:

[Tampa33Build]

Moved battery lower in trunk, cleaned up wiring, and modified luggage boxes to hide amp and wiring. Luggage boxes are held in place with super magnets and have fans for amp air flow. Carpeting is next.

Before
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After
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[jayguy]

Love the look of those boxes. Been thinking that a large old-school trunk in the bed of the truck would be great for a couple carry-on sized bags for a weekend trip.

[Salty Chief 35]

Love the color of the frame!!! Looks like you’ll be hitting the road soon.
Great work!
Jeremie

[Tampa33Build]

Trunk and battery cover carpeted
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Interior carpet completed & center console wrapped. Had two sets of floor mats made with extra carpet.
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Seat upholstery completed, need to dye the plastic to match and paint frame bottoms. Forgot to take pictures when they were in the car. Had to weld on some extensions to the front of the seat so the could bolt to the cross pieces front and back. Door panels, headliner, and waterfall wrapping should be completed this week.
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[FF33rod]

Continued top notch work!!!

Steve

[wallace18]

Super Job!:cool:

[Tampa33Build]

Been a while since I updated the build.

Rear glove box is done, sliding doors painted to match dash and doors
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Replaced FFR rear coilovers with AFCO 12" 250# dual adjustable. With the FFR coilovers maxed I had about 3/4" fender clearance. Curently have it set to 1.5" clearance and there is plenty of adjustment.
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Front and rear windows installed

Interior almost completed, three point seat belts installed, need to install radio, front and rear camera. Also having issue with keeping headliner glued, should have sanded inside of top prior to gluing leather upholstered headline. A day in the sun and parts released. Glued wood slats to top first than glued headliner piece to the wooden slots with Loctite PL3X it stuck to the wood however did not stick to top. Stayed over a month in the shop however once in the sun it release from the fiberglass. Hopefully sanding and regluing will hold.

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Had to remote the power seat electronics and lumbar controls to the center console. After installing carpet there was not enough room between the seat and door sill. Fortunately there was enough leather left to have the seats redone where the controls were.

Performed complete tuning of Holly Snipper today, vacuum checked AC system since it had been sitting for 18 months and all checked out. Did discover that I need to add a control to turn the fan on when AC is on, otherwise the head pressure goes too high and turns the compressor off. May have to add a relay since I have the Holly Snipper and infinity box system controlling the fan.

Bummer it now has to go back to body shop to have area where original rear light pockets were. I filled them in with duraglass three years ago and apparently it causes a temperature difference between body and pocket area. After a few hours in the sun the pocket area is very pronounced. The painting was completed many months ago and did not appear when in the sun after painting. Plan is to grind out area, removing the pockets, add new fiberglass and repaint. The owner of the body shop said he cannot have his name on it with a flaw like that.

[Salty Chief 35]

Wow, very nice!!! Well done
Respectfully
Jeremie

[wallace18]

Super Job!:cool:

[FF33rod]

Beautiful job!
You may know but the Sniper has an input to indicate the AC is on and when active will automatically turn the fan on if it's controlling it.

Steve

[Straversi]

Gorgeous! Great to see this come together.
-Steve

[Tampa33Build]

Steve, thanks, I was looking at Sniper's schematics yesterday.

Snipper and Infinity box both are controlling the fan. I have the Infinity box programmed to run fan for 3 minutes after ignition is off. Would be nice if they provided output/input requirements as well as what signals are inputs/outputs. Infinity box works by grounding controller inputs and requires a inverter (InvertMini) if signals are 12V vs. ground.

Neil

[Tampa33Build]

About three weeks ago pulled into a parking space and misjudged the parking block. Scraped the nose cone right under the grill. Removed the nose cone took it to the body shop to have it fixed and repainted. Also added a flat spot for a front camera. Hopefully last time I will misjudge parking. You have about 6 inches from red lines to camera.
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Also had it aligned, drives much better, electric steering still takes some getting use to.
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Nice day today, went for a ride.
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[RoadRacer]

Dang, it must have felt it was always turning with those old caster measurements. I bet it feels better now!

[Tampa33Build]

Yes, it did.

Have a technical question about the 700R4 transmission that hopefully someone can help with.

Today I discovered that if I’m going about 30MPH I can put the car in neutral and accelerate and the car acts like it is in gear and accelerates. All the gears shift correctly and when setting still in neutral I can rev the engine without it trying to move.
At 2000 RPM the car is going about 60MPH, which is probably about right for a 28000 RPM stall converter. I cannot find any info on what stall converter blueprint installed but I believe it was 2800.

I have about 250 miles on it now and do not want to continue driving it if there is a chance I can damage the transmission.

Any suggestions?

[33fromSD]

Yes, it did.

Have a technical question about the 700R4 transmission that hopefully someone can help with.

Today I discovered that if I’m going about 30MPH I can put the car in neutral and accelerate and the car acts like it is in gear and accelerates. All the gears shift correctly and when setting still in neutral I can rev the engine without it trying to move.
At 2000 RPM the car is going about 60MPH, which is probably about right for a 28000 RPM stall converter. I cannot find any info on what stall converter blueprint installed but I believe it was 2800.

I have about 250 miles on it now and do not want to continue driving it if there is a chance I can damage the transmission.

Any suggestions?

I know you note all the gears shift correctly when sitting still but it could still be a simple linkage tweak. What shifter are running?

I have a Lokar shifter on my 55 F100 with a Ford AOD I'm working on currently and all the gears shift fine but I couldn't get it to start in park due to the neutral safety switch and when I started it in neutral the tranny would engage (I didn't have the drive shaft on but I had a yoke put in on the end of the tranny to see if there was any rotation).

I made a slight tweak to the linkage (minor tweak, like a half turn) and now there no more engagement in neutral at any rpm and it now starts in park.

Just a thought.

Jim

[Tampa33Build]

Jim,

Yes I'm leaning that is the issue. BluePrint technician came back with this interesting statement:

Either a solid linkage or cable operated needs adjusted properly. The slack needs adjusted while in gear NOT in Park or neutral. If you adjusted the slack while it was in P or N then it is too tight and when you are moving down the road and go from D to N while driving it is caught in between gears and not disengaging. When you stop there might not be enough force or “bind” on the linkage so it just slips into N. There should be some slack in the linkage when in P or N. Please confirm the proper adjustment has been made first. Otherwise if you do have some slack in the linkage when it is P o r N and it is tight when in D then there might be something internal in the transmission.

I believe I adjusted it in park and neutral since they had the indent lock on the shifter. I will have to put it on the lift and verify. Hopefully I will not have to pull seats and tunnel!
I have the Lokar CM700EMP - Lokar Case Mount Automatic Transmission Shifter
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[33fromSD]

Jim,

Yes I'm leaning that is the issue. BluePrint technician came back with this interesting statement:

Either a solid linkage or cable operated needs adjusted properly. The slack needs adjusted while in gear NOT in Park or neutral. If you adjusted the slack while it was in P or N then it is too tight and when you are moving down the road and go from D to N while driving it is caught in between gears and not disengaging. When you stop there might not be enough force or “bind” on the linkage so it just slips into N. There should be some slack in the linkage when in P or N. Please confirm the proper adjustment has been made first. Otherwise if you do have some slack in the linkage when it is P o r N and it is tight when in D then there might be something internal in the transmission.

I believe I adjusted it in park and neutral since they had the indent lock on the shifter. I will have to put it on the lift and verify. Hopefully I will not have to pull seats and tunnel!
I have the Lokar CM700EMP - Lokar Case Mount Automatic Transmission Shifter
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Similar shifter as mine, I too didn't realize how sensitive the linkage is. Hope it goes well for you.

Jim

[Tampa33Build]

After waiting two months for an opening to get the hot rod professionally tuned and dynode the shop asked why I had a Holley Sniper setup without EFI controlled timing and suggested I change it to EFI controlled timing prior to tuning. They said one of the main advantages of the EFI system is letting it control timing. So down a rabbit hole I went. After unsuccessfully trying to figure out the wiring changes to allow the Ready to Run distributor control timing, a call to a Holley technician confirmed my research that it is not capable of allowing EFI timing control.

Just upgraded distributor to a Holley Hyperspark distributor from the Blueprint supplied MSD Ready to Run distributor. Engine runs much better than the traditional vacuum advance system. Do not understand why BluePrint Engines supplies an engine ordered with a Holley Sniper EFI with a distributor not capable of supporting EFI timing. If Blueprint supplied a compatible distributor it would have saved me time and money.

Next step reschedule the tuning and dyno.

[Ltngdrvr]

After waiting two months for an opening to get the hot rod professionally tuned and dynode the shop asked why I had a Holley Sniper setup without EFI controlled timing and suggested I change it to EFI controlled timing prior to tuning. They said one of the main advantages of the EFI system is letting it control timing. So down a rabbit hole I went. After unsuccessfully trying to figure out the wiring changes to allow the Ready to Run distributor control timing, a call to a Holley technician confirmed my research that it is not capable of allowing EFI timing control.

Just upgraded distributor to a Holley Hyperspark distributor from the Blueprint supplied MSD Ready to Run distributor. Engine runs much better than the traditional vacuum advance system. Do not understand why BluePrint Engines supplies an engine ordered with a Holley Sniper EFI with a distributor not capable of supporting EFI timing. If Blueprint supplied a compatible distributor it would have saved me time and money.

Next step reschedule the tuning and dyno.

Well, I'm sure they supply it that way for simplicity, as it, as you know, will run with the ready to run distributor without the computer controlled timing.

And, actually, you could have modified the MSD distributor to work with the timing control, but you have to lock out the vacuum and mechanical advance mechanisms, which might have meant you would have to do a little welding to achieve the lock out.

The next thing for you to do is download the Holley tuning software to your laptop and get the interface cable to connect to it.
Then you can do your own tuning, although you can do quite a bit just from the hand held unit that came with the sniper EFI unit.

[Tampa33Build]

I did lock the MSD Ready to Run distributor, there is a kit that you installed to lock it out. No matter what I tried I could not get the Snipper to work with it, timing would always stay at 15 degrees and not advance, hence no timing control. According to the Holley technician the MSD Ready to Run distributor cannot be setup to allow the Sniper to control timing. Should have called them first, it would have saved me a lot of frustration. Installing the HyperSpark was simple and allows a lot of tuning, still playing with it. however very happy so far.
Most likely it is much easier for BluePrint to perform the Dyno test without all the tuning requirements of an EFI controlled timing is why they use the Ready to Run distributor.

[Tampa33Build]

Brought home another trophy Yesterday. They had me move to the entrance to promote a 3 day show in October and ended up under a tree. Drove through a Florida downpour going to show, all the days previous work had to be redone after rains stopped. Other than that it was a great show with over 500 cars.
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[Tampa33Build]

Discovered a some transmission fluid under the hot rod last weekend. Ended up being the TCI TV cable to the 700R4 transmission. Spent the weekend removing seats, center console, stereo, and tunnel to replace it. When I built the hot rod I anticipated having to remove the tunnel so the carpet was installed to allow access to the 1/4x 20 bolts securing the tunnel as well as all electronics all are connector based for easy disassembly. I also used Butyl rubber sealant as a sealer for the tunnel making removal much easier than removing an RTV sealant . Replaced the TCI TV cable with a Lokar, a much better design as you can see from the photos, two O rings and metal hold down bracket.
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Changed the thermostat to a 160 degree Performance/High Flow Thermostat and replaced the coolant with SynMax Water Kooler Racing Coolant. Engine runs much cooler.

Update on changing the distributor to allow EFI controlled timing. Gas mileage went from 8 MPG to 12.6 MPG.

[TxMike64]

What seats are those?

I saw a pic of the dash in another thread - did you install a '33 dash panel?

---

Edit: I just realized I asked you this exact question almost 2 years ago... I'm an idiot... BUT, I am starting my build now, YEARS later.

[Tampa33Build]

Best in Class today at Lakeland Mirror Classics
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[Salty Chief 35]

Congrats! I’m sure they’ll be many more trophys.
Respectfully
Jeremie

[Jeff33Ford]

Fantastic!! Congrats. That looks great. I like the trunk touch. Where did you get those from? They fit perfectly.

[Just 1 More]

Fantastic!! Congrats. That looks great. I like the trunk touch. Where did you get those from? They fit perfectly.

I'd like to know too, thanks.
My friend was at that show with his FFR Cobra

[Tampa33Build]

They are from Hobby Lobby, I cut them down and put them back together to fit. They cover the amp and infinity box
The little one is where I keep matchbox hot rod cars to give to the little ones that take an interest in the car.

[jayguy]

Beautiful! Love the trunk in the trunk, I've been thinking that a large trunk in the bed of the '35 truck would be awesome too.

[Tampa33Build]

Discovered my front passenger wheel had movement side to side. Removed the boot and discovered the rubber bushing that should have been inside the rack housing was no longer seated in the housing. Anyone had their steering rack bushing/seal come out at the rack housing end as shown in the photos.

Only fix appears to be replacing the steering rack. Has anyone found another source for the steering rack other than FFR? I have 800 miles on the FFR supplied steering rack that should have lasted 50K miles.

I read where the 1980 Dodge Omni - Steering Rack (42 in. overall rack length) part number REPD289501 is a drop in replacement and was wondering if anyone can confirm this?
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[Just 1 More]

Discovered my front passenger wheel had movement side to side. Removed the boot and discovered the rubber bushing that should have been inside the rack housing was no longer seated in the housing. Anyone had their steering rack bushing/seal come out at the rack housing end as shown in the photos.

Only fix appears to be replacing the steering rack. Has anyone found another source for the steering rack other than FFR? I have 800 miles on the FFR supplied steering rack that should have lasted 50K miles.

I read where the 1980 Dodge Omni - Steering Rack (42 in. overall rack length) part number REPD289501 is a drop in replacement and was wondering if anyone can confirm this?
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I was told by Brett @ Ridetech "You might contact Woodward, Sweet, or Apple to see about a custom built rack." I'll see if I can make some calls tomorrow and see what I can find out.

[Just 1 More]

Looks like Woodward has some possible options, definitely calling them in the morning..
http://www.woodwardsteering.com/PDF/5.%20Heavy%20Duty%20Manual%20Steering%20Racks,%20t ypes%20JL,%20JLR.pdf

[RoadRacer]

There are mechanical fixes.. search here first. And call FFR (that’s what I did and got a new rack from them).

[Just 1 More]

In spoke with Tony (owner) at Woodward this morning and WOW did we get in to steering geometry way over my head, and pretty sure he could tell I was lost and realized I wasn't comprehending. told me to do a lot of reading of his tech manuals.