289 USRRC - vspeeds - #9180 Build Thread

[Vspeeds]

I don’t know what I just got myself into, but I have a 289 USRRC kit coming!

Several years ago I committed to a Superformance roadster, bought the roller and ordered an engine. Unfortunately, the law offices of Mr. Murphy showed up and I unexpectedly got demoted at work (budget cuts) and lost a lot of money in salary. Sadly I cancelled my car but the engine was already in production. So for the last several years I’ve had a Roush 427SR sitting in my garage.

Now today things are a little better. I’ve always known about FFR but never considered building a cobra until now. I have a good assortment of tools and I’ve wrenched on a few cars in the past, but as many people on this forum, I have had no previous experience in building a car. So last month in July I went to the “Build School” near Detroit. After the class I felt confident and said to myself I could totally build this thing. When I got back home I did a little more research and ordered my kit on July 25, 2017; just in time to take advantage of the summer sale. The FFR completion date is August 19, 2017 and I’ll have Stewart Transport to haul it over to California.

So now that I’m committed to the FFR 289, Mr. Murphy shows up again…my commuter car died and I was forced to buy a new commuter car, a Toyota Prius. I know…but my commute from the Sacramento area to San Francisco is over 100 miles. Thats over a 200 mile roundtrip commute and the Prius just makes sense. So the budget I had saved for the build is pretty much gone. However, I’ll just take my time and just buy the additional parts needed as I save my pennies…or, if I get too anxious I just might take out a loan.

Here is what I ordered:

289 Complete Kit
12189 - powder coated chassis
15759 - body cutouts (minus roll bar and fuel cap)
13939 - original style vinyl seats
16004 - vintage FFR gauges MPH GPS
15774 - 289 USRRC style trunk with no bumps
34113 - 2 extra brake reservoir components
12049 - wind wings
12042 - sun visors
15549 - vintage wiper kit
16116 - front swaybar
13673 - oil cooler kit
15154 - floor mats
11194 - blank dash
11195 - remote battery terminals
15659 - assembled side louver set
12012 - over-rider bumper kit
16204 - Moser 8.8 - 3 link rear end
16285 - rear brake kit - 11.65” rotors

I’m planning on using a Quicktime Bell housing with Tilton Hydraulic throwout bearing and Tilton clutch cylinder on a Tremec TKO600. McLeod clutch. I already have a Roush 427SR engine.

I’m attempting to have a look similar to the original AC cars. So I’m also planning:

15” Dayton wire wheels ( I realize there’s a lot of HP going to those wire wheels but I already have the engine)
Custom under car exhaust but exiting on the sides in front of the rear wheels
no roll bar
over rider bumpers
Change the 289 race gauge layout to the SC dash layout
rear luggage rack
maybe a custom tonneau cover but the car will have the lift a dots

Also I’m gonna purchase several build items from some of the vendors.

So thats my plan. Like I said earlier, I don’t know what I got myself into but I’ll take it one step at a time. I’m looking forward to experience this journey.

[scottiec]

Congrats and welcome! And trust me, you will make it work. I made a budget and am forcing myself to stick to it. Through advice of the forum members and some elbow grease, you can save some money. Best of luck.

[chuckster]

Always glad to see another 289 being built,. This Saturday should be like Chrismas!

[japollon]

Welcome and as well, good luck. My 289 build is progressing nicely albeit a little slow due to nothing more that time constraints and too many other interests and hobbies!!! Budget? What's a budget? I am in the north bay area somewhat close to you. Would love to see your car when it arrives.

[CobraboyDR]

I don’t know what I just got myself into, but I have a 289 USRRC kit coming!

Several years ago I committed to a Superformance roadster, bought the roller and ordered an engine. Unfortunately, the law offices of Mr. Murphy showed up and I unexpectedly got demoted at work (budget cuts) and lost a lot of money in salary. Sadly I cancelled my car but the engine was already in production. So for the last several years I’ve had a Roush 427SR sitting in my garage.

Now today things are a little better. I’ve always known about FFR but never considered building a cobra until now. I have a good assortment of tools and I’ve wrenched on a few cars in the past, but as many people on this forum, I have had no previous experience in building a car. So last month in July I went to the “Build School” near Detroit. After the class I felt confident and said to myself I could totally build this thing. When I got back home I did a little more research and ordered my kit on July 25, 2017; just in time to take advantage of the summer sale. The FFR completion date is August 19, 2017 and I’ll have Stewart Transport to haul it over to California.

So now that I’m committed to the FFR 289, Mr. Murphy shows up again…my commuter car died and I was forced to buy a new commuter car, a Toyota Prius. I know…but my commute from the Sacramento area to San Francisco is over 100 miles. Thats over a 200 mile roundtrip commute and the Prius just makes sense. So the budget I had saved for the build is pretty much gone. However, I’ll just take my time and just buy the additional parts needed as I save my pennies…or, if I get too anxious I just might take out a loan.

Here is what I ordered:

289 Complete Kit
12189 - powder coated chassis
15759 - body cutouts (minus roll bar and fuel cap)
13939 - original style vinyl seats
16004 - vintage FFR gauges MPH GPS
15774 - 289 USRRC style trunk with no bumps
34113 - 2 extra brake reservoir components
12049 - wind wings
12042 - sun visors
15549 - vintage wiper kit
16116 - front swaybar
13673 - oil cooler kit
15154 - floor mats
11194 - blank dash
11195 - remote battery terminals
15659 - assembled side louver set
12012 - over-rider bumper kit
16204 - Moser 8.8 - 3 link rear end
16285 - rear brake kit - 11.65” rotors

I’m planning on using a Quicktime Bell housing with Tilton Hydraulic throwout bearing and Tilton clutch cylinder on a Tremec TKO600. McLeod clutch. I already have a Roush 427SR engine.

I’m attempting to have a look similar to the original AC cars. So I’m also planning:

15” Dayton wire wheels ( I realize there’s a lot of HP going to those wire wheels but I already have the engine)
Custom under car exhaust but exiting on the sides in front of the rear wheels
no roll bar
over rider bumpers
Change the 289 race gauge layout to the SC dash layout
rear luggage rack
maybe a custom tonneau cover but the car will have the lift a dots

Also I’m gonna purchase several build items from some of the vendors.

So thats my plan. Like I said earlier, I don’t know what I got myself into but I’ll take it one step at a time. I’m looking forward to experience this journey.That is very much what I'm aiming for, but with a SBF & IRS. I also want an eggcrate grill.

I look forward to your build!

This is an ERA version of what I'd like:

http://www.erareplicas.com/cars/1048/lfront.jpg

Seems AC built a few street cars on the FIA platform.

[David Hodgkins]

Congratulations on pulling the trigger on a new USRRC build!

If it turns out anything like the ERA above you'll have quite a beautiful car when done!

I bought parts as I went rather than purchasing everything in advance. Easier on the wallet that way.

I don't have any experience with the Tilton Hyraulic TB. Is it internal or external? I had an internal one and to adjust it I had to tear the whole tranny out. I switched it out to the Fortes external HTB. Easy to adjust and super smooth...

If the McCloud clutch is like mine (I went with a McCloud clutch and aluminum flywheel) you MIGHT want to rethink that for a street car. Especially with wire wheels. I'd think a race clutch with a 427 behind it might rip those wheels apart. No experience in that department, but if it was my setup I'd worry about it. Again, I switched out to a Spec and reattached the original steel flywheel. A smooth clutch and heavier flywheel will help you modulate power delivery. IMHO.

Again, congrats. You are about to embark on an epic journey!

:)

[CobraboyDR]

Congratulations on pulling the trigger on a new USRRC build!

If it turns out anything like the ERA above you'll have quite a beautiful car when done!

I bought parts as I went rather than purchasing everything in advance. Easier on the wallet that way.

I don't have any experience with the Tilton Hyraulic TB. Is it internal or external? I had an internal one and to adjust it I had to tear the whole tranny out. I switched it out to the Fortes external HTB. Easy to adjust and super smooth...

If the McCloud clutch is like mine (I went with a McCloud clutch and aluminum flywheel) you MIGHT want to rethink that for a street car. Especially with wire wheels. I'd think a race clutch with a 427 behind it might rip those wheels apart. No experience in that department, but if it was my setup I'd worry about it. Again, I switched out to a Spec and reattached the original steel flywheel. A smooth clutch and heavier flywheel will help you modulate power delivery. IMHO.

Again, congrats. You are about to embark on an epic journey!

:)I agree about the wire wheels with a grabby clutch an a big hp engine.

Wire wheels are mega-cool, but not for a big torque race car. I'd consider the FIA pin drive wheels for that set-up.

[Vspeeds]

Yes, that ERA photo is exactly what I wanna accomplish. I considered the pin drive wheels but I already made the decision and bought the regular width axles to accommodate the wire wheels. If those wire wheels don't hold up I'll go with the FFR bolt on wheels or something similar.

The Tilton HRB is internal and I'm debating on getting the Fortes external one for ease of adjustability. For the clutch and flywheel, I still have to figure that out combo out.

Thanks for the input guys.

[Vspeeds]

CobraboyDR
I considered the IRS but the system wouldn't work with 15" wheels. I know there is a workaround but I didn't want to have to deviate and deal with that level of added complexity.

[PeteH]

Congrats, yes! another 289! . I'm filling/block sanding mine as we speak. I went with a Wilwood external slave for the clutch, I didn't want to have to pull the trans for any issues. Works great from the little I've driven it. If driven hard, the splines on those wire wheels and the spline hub themselves will wear to a knife edge, and can shear. If driven normally, they'll be ok.
Enjoy the build!

[Vspeeds]

If driven normally! Thats going to test my discipline. It'll be a challenge!
Congrats, yes! another 289! . I'm filling/block sanding mine as we speak. I went with a Wilwood external slave for the clutch, I didn't want to have to pull the trans for any issues. Works great from the little I've driven it. If driven hard, the splines on those wire wheels and the spline hub themselves will wear to a knife edge, and can shear. If driven normally, they'll be ok.
Enjoy the build!

[PeteH]

I know what you mean, we all still have some juvenile tendencies now and then, regardless of age! I've had new Dayton wire wheels & splines on a big Healey for 18 years, and even though I drive it "spiritedly", they're holding up well. But that is taking all of 167 ft lbs of torque. Cleaning them thoroughly takes patience.
But there is no better look to my taste, they're beautiful and classy.

[Vspeeds]

This is a test to see if I uploaded pictures correctly.

This guy arrived yesterday. The first piece of my puzzle.


http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72469&d=1502995177
(DSLR photo resized 1024x768)


This is my workspace
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72470&d=1502995203
(DSLR photo resized 1024x768)


And all those boxes on the back wall will go to my storage shed which I just built this year in preparation for a "possible" Cobra build.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72468&d=1502979240
(old photo taken from iPhone resized to 1024x768)

[CobraboyDR]

CobraboyDR
I considered the IRS but the system wouldn't work with 15" wheels. I know there is a workaround but I didn't want to have to deviate and deal with that level of added complexity.I understand Levy has a fairly simple bolt-on solution. The issue, as I understand, is rear brake clearance. Not sure about the front.

[CobraboyDR]

Yes, that ERA photo is exactly what I wanna accomplish. I considered the pin drive wheels but I already made the decision and bought the regular width axles to accommodate the wire wheels. If those wire wheels don't hold up I'll go with the FFR bolt on wheels or something similar.

The Tilton HRB is internal and I'm debating on getting the Fortes external one for ease of adjustability. For the clutch and flywheel, I still have to figure that out combo out.

Thanks for the input guys.Are the wire wheels bolt on? Which model?

(GReat minds, and all that. I can't get the look of that ERA out of my head...)

[Vspeeds]

This engine has been sitting in my garage for the last several years

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72471&d=1502996573
(old photo from computer resized)

I'm thinking I might change out the Holly carb and installing a bolt on FiTech EFI.

[Vspeeds]

Are the wire wheels bolt on? Which model?

(GReat minds, and all that. I can't get the look of that ERA out of my head...)

They are 72 spoke cross lace knock offs
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72472&d=1502997108

[ehansen007]

This looks awesome. A true sports touring build. The chrome will look great on this car. Best of luck.

[fact5racer]

Especially without a roll bar!



If driven normally! Thats going to test my discipline. It'll be a challenge!

[cnutting]

my commute from the Sacramento area to San Francisco is over 100 miles. Thats over a 200 mile roundtrip commute

Dear. God.

I've heard California is home to some epic commutes. Can't imagine that.

Welcome to the 289 club. When I picked mine up there weren't many sold, that seems to have changed quite a bit in the last 18 months...

[2FAST4U]

Welcome to the madness! Your build plan sounds great!

I'm moving to Redding in a few months. You're welcome to come see my custom 289 FIA, have some lunch, and talk cars

[CobraboyDR]

They are 72 spoke cross lace knock offs
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72472&d=1502997108What sizes?

I LOVE your build...

Do you have a color in mind?

[Vspeeds]

CobraboyDR
The standard wheel sizes Im looking at are 15x7 and 15x8. The wheels are pretty pricey so Ill most likely stick with standard sizes rather than custom sizes with custom backspace/offsets.

Color is going to be dark. Im thinking either black or really dark blue. There is a Ferrari blue that ive always liked. I think ehanson007 did his in the Ferrari blue I like.

[Vspeeds]

My kit was ready on August 19th. I'm still waiting for the phone call from Stewart transport. I built this chassis dolly in the mean time. I got the dimensions and design from threads on this forum. Although, I modified them a bit.

Hopefully I'll get the call from the transport driver soon.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73000&d=1504120623

[Vspeeds]

Earlier today I received a call from driver Don from Stewart Transport. He said my kit is on his truck and he's on his way. He said I should expect delivery around September 12 or 13, 2017. Now I'm really getting excited.

[Vspeeds]

My kit arrived today! It was a smooth process. Don, the driver from Stewart Transport was awesome. He kept me informed and was right on schedule.

After delivery I was real busy at home. Didn't even get a chance to really go over it, however I did start the inventory this evening.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73642&d=1505365276

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73643&d=1505365291

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73644&d=1505365322

[japollon]

And now the fun begins! Good for you! I am about four months ahead of you regarding the progress of my 289. Are there others in California working on 289 builds? I'm in Sacramento often for work. Maybe we can connect!

[PeteH]

Congratulations! Seeing the fresh body with the order sticker on it brings fond memories of the trip to FF to pick mine up. As Joel says, the fun now begins! I'm ready for first prime, and have shared many pics with Joel for the dips waves and fitment issues. send your email in a pm and I'll be glad to forward. One of these days I'll have to retrain this old dog the new trick of uploading pictures directly.

[cnutting]

Not just the fresh body, the clean garage brings back memories...

Congrats and make sure you have the latest documentation.

[Vspeeds]

Congratulations! Seeing the fresh body with the order sticker on it brings fond memories of the trip to FF to pick mine up. As Joel says, the fun now begins! I'm ready for first prime, and have shared many pics with Joel for the dips waves and fitment issues. send your email in a pm and I'll be glad to forward. One of these days I'll have to retrain this old dog the new trick of uploading pictures directly.

Pete
I sent you a PM. Thanks

[Vspeeds]

PeteH
I received your email photos. Thanks for including me in the loop

[Vspeeds]

Japollon
If ever your in the Sacramento area, please feel free to call me. I'm in Elk Grove. I sent you a pm awhile back with my phone number.

[Mark Eaton]

This engine has been sitting in my garage for the last several years

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72471&d=1502996573
(old photo from computer resized)

I'm thinking I might change out the Holly carb and installing a bolt on FiTech EFI.

Hey Eddie,

Now that is a beautiful engine!

Mark

[Vspeeds]

I finally found some time today to start working on the kit. I began by running a sharpie pen along the inside body and marked the aluminum panels for trimming to get a more uniform gap between the body and aluminum panels ( it's late and I hope that made sense.)
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74585&d=1507076169
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74581&d=1507076110
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74637&d=1507094170

I also made the body buck. I placed a plywood board on top of the body and made sure it was level. Then I made this little contraption to trace out the rough shape of the body onto the board. I cut the plywood a little smaller to compensate for the difference between the upper and interior body. I then mounted the cut and shaped plywood onto an OSB board and finished the rest of the body buck. I then removed both doors, the hood, and the trunk. I removed the body, placed it on the buck, and called it a day.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74580&d=1507076090
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74582&d=1507076122
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74583&d=1507076131

[Vspeeds]

Today I started on removing the aluminum panels. In an attempt to not lose the rivet spacing tool, I painted it so it would stick out amongst the other aluminum pieces. I painted it halfway across so it also helps me easily determine the proper side to use.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74686&d=1507164874

My plan is to mark, remove, drill, and fit the panels before removing them for the build. Then once removed, I'll send them off to be powder coated.

Here is the F-panel. With the advise of a fellow FFR owner, I moved the panel aft about an inch. On the roadster it helps with wheel clearance and better geometry to fiddle with the elephant ears when its time to install it. On the 289 with the body still on, I played around with the elephant ears and by moving it back I think it made them fit better...we'll see when the time comes to install them.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74688&d=1507164896

Here is the driver side footbox. There sure are a lot of rivets. I hope they all align together when I re-assemble them.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74684&d=1507164853

That's all I accomplished today...2 F-panels and the driver footbox.

[Vspeeds]

My build is starting off a lot slower than I anticipated. I've been really busy lately with work and family and extended family. I have a few friends who lost their homes in the Napa Valley/Santa Rosa fires. I also have a few more friends still hoping and praying the fire would miss them. This past week I've devoted my time with them.

This week I've been receiving boxes of my backordered parts: LCA's, radiator, some hose fittings, lower body mount, and some other small items. Still waiting for the windshield and door lock mechanisms.

I'm still in the process of removing the aluminum panels. I'm too tired to do the panels tonight, but I did work on my car for about 20 minutes. I used my dremel tool to cut grooves into the bushings of the lower control arms. This was a tip I learned at the build school.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75317&d=1507955514

[CobraboyDR]

My build is starting off a lot slower than I anticipated. I've been really busy lately with work and family and extended family. I have a few friends who lost their homes in the Napa Valley/Santa Rosa fires. I also have a few more friends still hoping and praying the fire would miss them. This past week I've devoted my time with them.

This week I've been receiving boxes of my backordered parts: LCA's, radiator, some hose fittings, lower body mount, and some other small items. Still waiting for the windshield and door lock mechanisms.

I'm still in the process of removing the aluminum panels. I'm too tired to do the panels tonight, but I did work on my car for about 20 minutes. I used my dremel tool to cut grooves into the bushings of the lower control arms. This was a tip I learned at the build school.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75317&d=1507955514Why the grooves?

[Vspeeds]

CobraboyDR
The grooves are to prevent the bushings from annoyingly squeeking against the steel. It allows for the grease to enter the grooves to help lubricate. The upper arms already have them from the factory.

[Vspeeds]

Finishing up the aluminum panels. I still have to cut the trunk for the FFMetal battery box which is coming in the mail tomorrow. I also want to get the Russ Thompson drop trunk but I haven't sourced that yet. That should almost complete the aluminum panels, then off to powder coat. I'm also going to get a fan shroud but I don't think I'll powder coat that.

I'm going to put a footbox vent in but haven't decided if I'll have a gated shutoff.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75384&d=1508117713

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75385&d=1508117713

[Vspeeds]

I started on the front suspension. I made sure the F panels could be attached at a later time. I started with the LCA's. It was a little tight for the bolts because of the powder coating. Instead of just hammering the bolts in, I used a little file to clear the powder coat from the opening.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75389&d=1508117713

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75390&d=1508117713

One upper ball joint went into the assembly easily while the other I had to use the vise just like in the instructions.

After I torqued both hubs onto the spindles I thought I stripped the spindle threads. Then I realized they both look the same. Hopefully this is normally how they look and hopefully I didn't screw up.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75387&d=1508117713

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75388&d=1508117713

If I didn't screw up, I have to borrow a torque wrench and torque the bolt down and place the cap on. Then on went the shocks. I temporarily installed the front brakes and called it a day.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75383&d=1508117713

[Vspeeds]

I think I may have a problem with the Dayton wire wheels I want to put on. Dayton Wheels said to make sure the caliper does not hang over the mounting surface for brake caliper clearance. The caliper hangs over!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75386&d=1508117713

[Vspeeds]

For the caliper clearance...I'll just put a wheel spacer on.

I haven't been working much on the car lately as Id like to... but in the last couple of months I did purchase a few items which included the Russ Thompson self cancelling turn signal, drop trunk, accelerator pedal, and dead pedal. I also bought and installed the FF Metal trunk battery holder. I also bought a handle for the dash ( like in EdwardB's thread), a Longacre brand battery cut-off switch, and some "Lift the Dots" for the body as well as a USB power port that I'm thinking about hiding in an ashtray.

Since my last post I installed the rear end onto the chassis. I was originally going to powder coat the aluminum panels, but after recently seeing some vintage cars like Ferrari's, Porsches, and the like, I decided to just give the panels a brushed look and sealed them with Sharkhide protectant. I'm not building a show car and this saved me a few hundred dollars. I also mocked up the dashboard to see how I like the layout.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77837&d=1513409929

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77838&d=1513409939

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77836&d=1513409919

[Vspeeds]

Another photo of the mock dash

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77839&d=1513411354

[Vspeeds]

another photo of the mock dash

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77839&d=1513411354

[Vspeeds]

Sometime last month in November I installed the rear end.

After watching the FFR build videos and after attending the July Motts College build school, as well as reading the manual, I was anticipating having to remove the differential cover and removing the axle shafts in order to install the brake caliper brackets. Since I had to remove the differential cover, I decided to replace the stock Moser differential cover with an aluminum one (Moser part# 7106, 8.8" performance cover). After looking at the supplied brake caliper brackets, I realized the brackets can be installed without having to remove the axle. So I just installed the new aluminum cover and moved forward.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77971&d=1513789178

I had an issue with the brake caliper not aligning properly with the caliper bracket. A call to FFR revealed I had the wrong size upper bracket which was too small ( the painted black one). A few days later I received the correct sized one.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77972&d=1513789190

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77973&d=1513789200

With the new brackets, everything lined up. I then had another little issue. With the brake pads installed into the caliper, I could not put the caliper onto the brake rotor. With another call to FFR, a simple fix was recommended. I used long nose pliers and pushed in and twisted the caliper piston approximately 1 mm and that solved the issue.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77974&d=1513789707

With the brackets, calipers, rotors, new diff. cover, and vent hose installed, I raised the rear end in place with no problems...and I did it with myself and my 16 year old daughter and 12 year old son. I then installed the panhard bracket and bar. This was all pretty straight forward.

[CobraboyDR]

I was originally going to powder coat the aluminum panels, but after recently seeing some vintage cars like Ferrari's, Porsches, and the like, I decided to just give the panels a brushed look and sealed them with Sharkhide protectant. I'm not building a show car and this saved me a few hundred dollars.Nice progress!

I agree about the brushed aluminum look, definitely vintage, as well as the Sharkhide.

Can you go into more details about your process for the appearance of the aluminum panels?

[CobraboyDR]

For the caliper clearance...I'll just put a wheel spacer on.This is my favorite build thread.

Have you test fitted the wire wheels with a spacer yet? How thick a spacer will you use? Any idea how that will affect tire clearance?

[CobraboyDR]

Here is a drool-worthy 289FIA from Unique:

https://imageshack.com/a/img924/5981/GgrAdz.jpg

https://imageshack.com/a/img924/8506/L4qIsN.jpg

https://imageshack.com/a/img924/4066/DO6n8i.jpg

I like wires, but I also like these FIA wheels.

I'd delete the roll bar and rear bumper, opting for just overrriders, but I suspect registration required it. IMO, it's mounted wat too far off the body.

The color? Cosmic, and the tan interior is excellent!

[Vspeeds]

This is my favorite build thread.

Have you test fitted the wire wheels with a spacer yet? How thick a spacer will you use? Any idea how that will affect tire clearance?

I haven't purchased the wheels yet. That is the main reason my build is going slow. I mentioned in my earlier posts that the $$ set aside for the build ended up spent on my new commuter car. With the standard offsets from Dayton, the wheel will get pushed out a bit...can't remember how much compared to the FFR wheels.

[Vspeeds]

Nice progress!

I agree about the brushed aluminum look, definitely vintage, as well as the Sharkhide.

Can you go into more details about your process for the appearance of the aluminum panels?

First, the aluminum was cleaned with lacquer thinner. Then, If the panel was scratched, i used 220 sand paper and brushed the panel in one direction only as straight and as long as possible. Then went over the panel the same way with the "red" colored scotchbrite pad ( from Amazon.com). I've seen some people use WD40 on the scotch pad while they brushed the aluminum. I didn't though. Then clean the panel again with the lacquer thinner. Then I used a cloth diaper ( we have many left over as rags from when the kids were young) and applied the Sharkhide. There are shark hide youtube videos showing the application process. There is also threads on this forum about the brushed and other finishes for the aluminum panels. Make sure you wear gloves so your skin oil doesn't contaminate the clean panel.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77989&d=1513810423

[Vspeeds]

CobraboyDr

That FIA car does look sweet. I agree the rear bumper looks a little too long.

Where are you located? When do you plan on buying the kit?

[Zots]

I am very interested in your progress with the Dayton wire wheels. I am considering that route also. Keep us informed!

I really wanted the pin-drive FIA rims but also the IRS, so I opted for the IRS with 15" Halibrands with the brake kit from Levy Racing....but the wire wheel option is tugging...

[CobraboyDR]

CobraboyDr

That FIA car does look sweet. I agree the rear bumper looks a little too long.

Where are you located? When do you plan on buying the kit?Sorry I'm late responding. We're in the middle of our motorcycle tour season here in the DR.

I'm not sure when. I'm looking for options because I want both IRS as well as pin-drive wheels. I think wheels are a HUGE part of the Cobra look, and I personally stuggle with the bolt-ons with bolt covers, like noticing a hair growing out of a mole on the face of a pretty woman. I know opinions and beauty vary, and I have no problem with that.

One reason I like the FIA is that it was originally a small block car. I also struggle with a SBF instead of an FE in a 427s/c car. a SBF in an FIA is "correct."

Solid axle cars here in the DR would beat you to death.

[Vspeeds]

I am very interested in your progress with the Dayton wire wheels. I am considering that route also. Keep us informed!

I really wanted the pin-drive FIA rims but also the IRS, so I opted for the IRS with 15" Halibrands with the brake kit from Levy Racing....but the wire wheel option is tugging...

I still have to figure the Daytons out as I ordered the standard width axles. With brake caliper clearance issues I will have to use wheel spacers in the front...i havnt yet figured out how far they would stick out. Ill give an update when I do.

[Vspeeds]

CobraboyDR
“Hair growing out of a mole on the face of a pretty woman” thats a pretty funny description.

[CobraboyDR]

I still have to figure the Daytons out as I ordered the standard width axles. With brake caliper clearance issues I will have to use wheel spacers in the front...i havnt yet figured out how far they would stick out. Ill give an update when I do.Why not swap axles for a shortened one? Or have yours shortened.

IMO, the wheels on a Cobra are critical. Spending a little more for the look you want would be worth it.

Aren't there narrow FFR front axles/spindles for pin-drive front wheels?

[Vspeeds]

Finally have a few days off and was planning on working on the Cobra's brake lines...but I've been having more bad luck. Slipped and fell down a flight of stairs yesterday and I'm pretty sore and very uncomfortable in certain positions. So I found something to do while standing. Instead of fabricating my own butterfly valves for the foot boxes, I just purchased these from **********. I'm planning on placing the control knobs somewhere under the dash. So today I made a couple of brackets from aluminum for the control knobs. Im gonna POR15 them and I still have to mark the final locations as to not interfere with other systems.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82970&d=1521771044

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82967&d=1521770345

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82966&d=1521770345

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82968&d=1521770345

[Vspeeds]

For the driver side footbox vent knob I ended up putting it above the cross bar to avoid the electrical fuse box.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83077&d=1522037983

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83078&d=1522037997

And here is the passenger side

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83080&d=1522038095

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83079&d=1522038095

I also positioned the Russ Thompson dead pedal

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83076&d=1522037963

[Vspeeds]

Added pedal stops
For the accelerator I used bolt size 1/4-20 x 2 inches and screwed it into one of the existing holes in the foot box.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84346&d=1524104268

I am using a hydraulic clutch and added a pedal stop for that also. I'd like to have welded a steel bracket but do not have a welder. So instead I cut a piece of angled aluminum (1-1/2 in x 1/8 in) and formed a bracket. I'm pretty confident it will be strong enough. Then bolted it to the square tube frame.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84347&d=1524104280

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84348&d=1524104296

The bolts are in place but of course not yet adjusted.

[TheBabyBadger]

Looks like a blast! I'm in Vacaville building a coupe. Supposed to be here Thursday! Will be in touch once it's road ready!

[Vspeeds]

I haven't worked much on the car this summer but I have been buying parts. Went to Hot August Nights in Reno and bought a Fitech EFI and Fuel pump and used their 10 percent off show special. I was so unsure how the Dayton wire wheels would fit as I would base the measurements off of the Halibrands that I have never seen on a USRRC car. I ended up just buying the 15" Halibrands from Factory Five. I mounted 235/60-15 on the front and 275/60-15 on the rear. The rear tires seemed too large and would rub on the body. I swapped them out for 255/60-15 which I think look a lot better in the wheel well. The fronts stick out a little but still look good. However, if I get the wire wheels I would need a wheel spacer fro caliper clearance which would push the wheel out further out from the fender. I will have to consult with Dayton to see what wheel offsets I could play around with. Or depending on how much the cost, I could swap out for the narrow width front axle.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=91852&d=1535163985

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=91853&d=1535163996

[Mark Eaton]

Looking good Eddie!

Mark

[BB767]

Hi Eddie, glad to see you are getting some time to work on the car. Did you have those mounted up when I was there? I see what you mean now. I would like to see the front tire wheel well placement more in line with (same in/out as) the rear. I think I would check into the narrower axles. May be a little more investment but seems like a nice clean answer if the wire wheels are even further extended than those. And/Or possibly get wheels with the offset you need for caliper clearance and avoid the spacers as well. Just my opinion. I agree with you on the rears, they look good. Buy the way, is that darn close to the final body position and is the clearance (tire to wheel lip) the same on both sides? Brien

[Jimtmich]

Have you set the camber etc up yet?

[Vspeeds]

Have you set the camber etc up yet?
I just did a rough alignment with a level and yardstick. The wheels are straight with no camber.

[Vspeeds]

Hi Eddie, glad to see you are getting some time to work on the car. Did you have those mounted up when I was there? I see what you mean now. I would like to see the front tire wheel well placement more in line with (same in/out as) the rear. I think I would check into the narrower axles. May be a little more investment but seems like a nice clean answer if the wire wheels are even further extended than those. And/Or possibly get wheels with the offset you need for caliper clearance and avoid the spacers as well. Just my opinion. I agree with you on the rears, they look good. Buy the way, is that darn close to the final body position and is the clearance (tire to wheel lip) the same on both sides? Brien

Brien
I had the wheels but the tires were not in stock at the tire place and were on the way from Cooper Tires.

The calipers overhang 3/4” and i will definitely need wheel spacers. I think there is not that much wiggle room to play with with the Wire wheel offsets to tuck them back in the fender. Ill look into the narrow pin drive lower control arms.

I think the body position is pretty close based on the bumper bolts going throgh the original body holes. However i didnt put on the weatherstrip bulbs yet.

[CobraboyDR]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=91852&d=1535163985What would be the road clearance with the side pipes? Don't they mount below the body as opposed to along the body in the s/c?

[Vspeeds]

I don't know what the height will be with the side pipes...and I want to go with under car exhaust too! Still gotta figure that out, but I like the stance in the picture.

[Vspeeds]

Just spent the last day and a half working on the brake lines. Bending them in the right spot was a lot harder than I thought it would be. I just couldn't seem to get it right. When I bent a right corner I bent it too short and the corners ended up having different angled radius to make up for the bend. Overall I think its acceptable just not as clean as what I strived for. I used nicop line which is easy to work with. I wouldn't have been able to do it with a harder line. The Eastood flaring tool his awesome. No problems there.

Here are the tools I worked with. Also I used two 1" sockets on a bench vice to make the loops.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=93071&d=1536728638

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=93072&d=1536728646

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=93069&d=1536728631

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=93070&d=1536728634

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=93073&d=1536728685

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=93066&d=1536728581

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=93078&d=1536728807

[Vspeeds]

More photos of brake lines

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=93067&d=1536728619

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=93068&d=1536728625

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=93080&d=1536728842

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=93081&d=1536728852

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=93081&d=1536728852

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=93081&d=1536728852

[Vspeeds]

After completing the brake lines, I pulled my engine out of the corner of the garage. Since I'll be replacing the Holly Carb with a Fitech EFI, I removed the mechanical fuel pump.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=93085&d=1536728908

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=93084&d=1536728900

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=93086&d=1536728918

[Vspeeds]

One more pic of the rear brake line under the car.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=93083&d=1536728888

[chuckster]

9309593095On my 289 USRRC the height of the sidepipes off the ground is about 2”. Haven’t had them hi the ground yet. (288 mi.)

[Vspeeds]

Chuckster

Thanks for the info on the height of the pipes. What is the clearance from the ground to the bottom of your round frame tubes?

[CobraboyDR]

9309593095On my 289 USRRC the height of the sidepipes off the ground is about 2”. Haven’t had them hi the ground yet. (288 mi.)Thanks for the info. The ground is a real problem for me because we have a lot of 2-3" speedbumps in this country.

That is the case for under car exhaust for my build.

[Vspeeds]

Installed the FiTech in tank fuel pump. The original factory fuel pickup line would be in a small basin bowl within the tank. I opted to enlarge the original opening for the FiTech assembly. This put the new fuel pump assembly outside of the basin. I didn't have to but I bent a portion of the basin wall for better clearance of the parts. Its not the ideal location for the fuel pickup, but it hopefully should work nonetheless.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=93671&d=1537148496

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=93670&d=1537148485

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=93673&d=1537148562

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=93674&d=1537148577

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=93676&d=1537148611

[Vspeeds]

The other day I checked the bell housing runout and was just outside of the needed tolerance. I had to take off the original dowel pins. Worked on one for about half an hour. I had a small punch but that was not working. Then I used vice grips and shredded the end. What a pain in the you know what that was...until I borrowed a large punch tool and I hammered them out in less than a minute. Its nice to have the right tools. I then installed the adjustable dowel pins (.007 in). The bell housing now lines up within the tolerance of .005

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94306&d=1538117744

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94307&d=1538117754

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94308&d=1538117765

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94309&d=1538117793

[Vspeeds]

This evening I installed the Mcleod RST dual clutch. I was on the fence with this model as I heard they can chatter a lot. But while at Reno Hot August Nights the Mcleod booth had a demo of this clutch and it was a really light clutch and I really liked it. I hope it works out for me. After the clutch installation, on went the bell housing.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94302&d=1538117386

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94304&d=1538117405

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94305&d=1538117413

[BB767]

Looking good Eddie! Have you made a decision on the transmission yet?

[Vspeeds]

Looking good Eddie! Have you made a decision on the transmission yet?

Hi Brien

This has been the hardest decision to make so far. Ive been analyzing my driving habits and noting the speeds at which i usually travel. I keep going back and forth on which gears to get. After talking to Mike Forte, I think I'll stick with my original plan with the TKO600 with .64 fifth gear. Forte does not have any in stock right now so I'll spend the rest of the week to ponder until he gets them in stock. As of now I'm pretty certain it will be the .64.

[BB767]

Hi Brien

This has been the hardest decision to make so far. Ive been analyzing my driving habits and noting the speeds at which i usually travel. I keep going back and forth on which gears to get. After talking to Mike Forte, I think I'll stick with my original plan with the TKO600 with .64 fifth gear. Forte does not have any in stock right now so I'll spend the rest of the week to ponder until he gets them in stock. As of now I'm pretty certain it will be the .64.

If you have thought that hard about it I am sure it will be the right decision. I have been thinking more about it as well, every engine has slightly different power and torque bands, this will make a big difference in how well it works with your engine also. Unfortunately you will not know for sure if you made the right decision until they they are mated up, in the car, and driving. In the end either one will work fine, but hopefully you chose the one that is the best fit for you.

[Vspeeds]

This afternoon I installed the starter motor. Here is a video of testing it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HnSqjdc6stA

[Vspeeds]

I wanted be able to adjust both seats so I purchased a Sparco brand seat track. I have never been able to tap a hole correctly so I decided to mount the tracks by bolting them to the steel plate under the seat. The two fronts are bolted to the plate and I used rivnuts to bolt the two rear ones to the square tube chassis. By doing this I had to narrow the width of the joining handle bar. Then I mocked up a wood plate on top of the tracks and mounted the seat to the plate. Once everything was lined up, I replaced the wood with 3/16 aluminum by 12"x13". The seat is not directly above the tracks but it seems pretty strong and stable. The only thing is I mounted the seat a little crooked to make sure I had door clearance and to make sure the seat still slides forward. In this position, the seat is more perpendicular to the steering wheel. In the last photo you could see how far the seat slides forward.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94628&d=1538621703

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94627&d=1538621683

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94630&d=1538621724

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94629&d=1538621712

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94642&d=1538622021

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94641&d=1538622016

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94640&d=1538622014

[Vspeeds]

Since my last update: I have bled the brakes using the harbor freight pneumatic bleeder. That thing works pretty good. I tried the manual way but the brakes seemed spongy. After using the pneumatic one, the brake pedal seems to feel good and firm.

I ran the battery cables and alternator cablers to a master switch. I also hung the rear electrical harness.

I ran the fuel lines. All of this is temporarily hung with clamps and clecos.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96607&d=1540881039

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96606&d=1540881027

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96605&d=1540881016

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96604&d=1540881007

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96603&d=1540880999

[Vspeeds]

I received the TKO 600. I removed the tab from the bottom using a reciprocating saw.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96600&d=1540880935

I changed out the shifter with a Pro 5.0 short shifter

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96602&d=1540880958

I installed the Tilton Hydraulic Release Bearing and then mounted the tranny assembly onto the bell housing.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96609&d=1540881070

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96611&d=1540881088

[Vspeeds]

I then mounted the BBK shortie headers using Reflex gaskets and Nord-Lock washers. The washers are sometimes used in aviation. The gasket is pretty thick but crushes down to 1/8 inch. I hope I'll have enough clearance from the header to the driver side footbox. I know it is a tight fit...but well see.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96612&d=1540881097

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96613&d=1540881116

[japollon]

All very, very nice. I used the same exhaust header gaskets and they seem to work fine regarding the driver's side foot box on the 289 FIA. Great to see your progress. Mine goes off to paint a week from tomorrow. Joel

[Vspeeds]

Thanks Joel. Hopefully I’ll drop the engine in the next few days.

Off to paint...awesome. I cant wait to see it when paint is done.

[Vspeeds]

Did some last minute things before my engine install. Put the e-brake pulleys on and added sound/heat barriers under the car. I have 2 layers for areas under the car seats. Both layers are thermo tec products. The first layer is the "Cool It" stuff with the tar type adhesive. This will also be on top of the aluminum panels in the cockpit as well. The 2nd layer under the car is the aluminum and fiberglass sheet. Hopefully all these layers will provide heat barrier as I'm planning to have a muffler under the seats.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96896&d=1541393081

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96895&d=1541393068

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96894&d=1541393056

[Vspeeds]

With the help of a fellow FFR owner (#3099) Steve, we were able to get the engine/transmission installed. It took about 10 minutes. It could've been faster but we had a few minor issues. First I did a miscalculation. Before Steve came over I prepped the chassis outside in my driveway. I wanted to position the chassis so that when the hoist was moved into position the hoists wheels would not go over the concretes expansion joints. Well when I made my mental calculation, I had the hoist in the stored position with the folded legs up and only four wheels on the ground...I never took into consideration it really has 6 wheels. Needless to say when we positioned the engine over the chassis, the wheels hit the expansion joint. and we were just about an inch away from perfect. So we had to rock it a few times to get the wheels out of the joints. That and the fact that I did not have an engine hoist leveler made things a little tricky. All in all it was pretty straight forward.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96901&d=1541393159

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96900&d=1541393147

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96902&d=1541393169

[Vspeeds]

I mounted the expansion tank before the engine installation. I made my measurements based off of other Factory Five cars and pictures with similar setups to mine. The measurements were made based off the F-panel. Well one of the first things I did when I started this project was I mounted the F-panel about an inch aft to give me better wheel clearance. Not remembering this modification placed my tank a little too close to the alternator. I'll just have to move it for better clearance.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96908&d=1541393339

[Vspeeds]

I made a bracket to hold a double male AN bulkhead fitting to attach my hydraulic throwout bearing to the master cylinder line.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96903&d=1541393182

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96907&d=1541393329

[Vspeeds]

I also made my first AN fitting. This is part of the EFI fuel line. Having used the vice holder while screwing in the fitting; this was easier than I thought it would be.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96909&d=1541393351

[japollon]

E, All very nice work! You are making great progress. I found that after I got the motor and transmission is, things went faster!!! It won't be long before you and I have our first 289 FIA rally in CA!!!

[Vspeeds]

After reading several threads with guys with similar engine, tranny, rear end setups as mine, I anticipated the pinion angle to be off a little. I picked up a total of 3/4" spacers from Mike Forte to raise the transmission up to get a better angle to match the rear end (which is limited to how much it can be adjusted). The rear end is a 3 link with the Moser banana bracket pre-welded on to the shaft. I put the spacers on prior to installing the engine and transmission. With the car on the ground set with a 4.5 inch front and 5" rear ride height and with the 3/4' of spacers, the pinion angle is within limits. I made several measurements both mechanically and with the Tremec app on my iophone. Although the iPhone app measurements were not exactly the same, they all were within limits. I took measurements from the phone at different angles (upright, side, and different locations). The measurements were made on the ground at ride height and raised on jack stands. All were within limits. Now that the engine is in place, I may have a hood / air cleaner problem. We'll have to deal with that later if it comes up.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=97305&d=1542036825

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=97304&d=1542036818

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=97306&d=1542036832

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=97303&d=1542036811

[Vspeeds]

I'm still doing little things here and there. I noticed the outer panel of the driver side footbox was bowing in a little so I straightened it by riveting an aluminum angle bar( 1/16"x1/2"x3/4"). This straightened out the panel and allowed more room for my foot to stretch out between the dead pedal and clutch pedal.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=98458&d=1543682149

I also started the electrical work. The 289 kit has the rectangle taillights with only 3 wires. Since I have to adjust the wiring from the harness (dieting?) I decided to remove the ( I think ugly looking) plastic wire loom and replaced it with a product called "Flexo F6 Quiet" braided sleeving.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=98457&d=1543682138

The chassis was towed to a local muffler shop late Friday to have my Spintech undercar exhaust installed. While the chassis is still there over the weekend, I decided to mock up the front grill. I used 1 1/2" cardboard strips used for drywall shims. I like the look. Now I just have to figure out how to fabricate an outer shroud and be able to attach it to the body.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=98459&d=1543682157

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=98460&d=1543682166

[Jimtmich]

Any idea if the Hawk 289 grill fits? Your mach up looks great.
I look forward to seeing the under car exhaust.

[Vspeeds]

Any idea if the Hawk 289 grill fits? Your mach up looks great.
I look forward to seeing the under car exhaust.

Jimtmich
Thanks for reminding me about Hawk Cars in the UK. I totally forgot about them and I will look into that grill. Funny because my other hobby of making scale RC tug boats; a majority of my parts come from the UK and the Netherlands. Hopefully it fits. Even though the grill is a pretty simple part, i do not have the proper tools to cut and bend the aluminum cleanly.
Im out of town and wont be able to pick up the chassis until 3 more days (12/4/18). Im looking forward to seeing the undercar exhaust also. I should be able to start it in a few days/week after.

[Mark Eaton]

Eddie,
The build looks great! I love that Roush engine and that Tilton throw out bearing.

Mark

[cnutting]

Looks great Eddie!

[Vspeeds]

Thanks Mark. I like your mods on your build.

Thanks Chris. I,m just hoping my car turns out at least half as good of what your car is.

[japollon]

Eddie, great work on the mock up of the grill. I also am anxious to see your under car exhaust set up. I have seen that particular style of egg crate grill used before on the 289. Seems to me it is available from one of the other replicar vendors. Maybe ERA? Unique? I could be wrong about that. Joel

[Vspeeds]

Thanks Joel. I’ll check those companys as well for the grill. I’m heading down to Newport Beach CA next week and will talk to Lance from Superformance in Irvine about the grill also.

[CobraboyDR]

Thanks Joel. I’ll check those companys as well for the grill. I’m heading down to Newport Beach CA next week and will talk to Lance from Superformance in Irvine about the grill also.The folks at ERA and Unique may also help with grills.

[Vspeeds]

The foils at ERA and Unique may also help with grills.

Ill check them out too. Hope all is well in the DR

[Vspeeds]

A couple of weeks ago I had a local muffler shop put on my under car exhaust with Spintech mufflers. I have 2.5" round pipes at the collector to 3" oval under the car. Now I can't wait to fire this thing up. Hopefully I will in the next few days/weeks.

I should've had the body on when they installed it. When I set the body on Ill go back to the shop for an adjustment and to cut the tips.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=99190&d=1545120517

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=99186&d=1545120473

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=99192&d=1545120610

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=99187&d=1545120483

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=99191&d=1545120600

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=99194&d=1545121599

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=99195&d=1545121607

[japollon]

Very impressive! Thank you for posting the pictures. Joel

[CobraboyDR]

I look forward to the sound. I like what you've done with the exhaust.

Loud pipes are fun for a while, but they can get "exhausting."

[Jimtmich]

Looks very period correct. Thanks for the pictures. What kind of ground clearance do you have this way? What heat materials did you use?

[cnutting]

Very nice! Can't wait to hear the sound.

[Vspeeds]

Looks very period correct. Thanks for the pictures. What kind of ground clearance do you have this way? What heat materials did you use?

The sheets of heat materials is Thermo Tec brand. I used two different kinds in layers. Photos of the stuff is in Post #89. I also used Vibrant Performance brand fiberglass shields for the rear brake line on the driver side and the fuel lines on the passenger side. 1/2" size and 3/4" size. Later on down the road I plan to ceramic coat the pipes and muffler and that might help shielding some heat.


With the ride height set from the ground to the bottom of the main frame rails it is 4.5" front and 5" back. Now with the mufflers on the lowest point gives 3" clearance where the tube transitions from round to oval. At the muffler it is 3.75" and at the tip it is 4". That is the height for both the driver and passenger sides.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=99227&d=1545155086

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=91852&d=1535163985

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=99223&d=1545154941

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=99224&d=1545154954

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=99225&d=1545154963

[PeteH]

That is a really creative approach for exhaust, very neat!
PeteH

[Vspeeds]

When I picked up the car from the muffler shop they pointed out that my FF Metals battery box was hitting my upgraded Moser differential cover. I was so excited when the pinion angles lined right up when I dropped the engine/tranny that I neglected to check the clearance. I had several recommendations like changing the cover back to stock to shortening the wheelbase! I decided to shorten the bottom of the box by over 2.5 inches. However, the battery now sits above the trunk floor...but I could live with that. I'll build a removable shroud around the top section of the battery so that I can remove the battery in the trunk. I will monitor the vertical travel of the diff with a camera during go-karting. Hopefully 2.5 inches will suffice. I could easily raise the battery box up more if needed. The FF Metals is an excellent box. However, If I did a little more research before building, I would have probably put the battery in the engine compartment.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=98851&d=1544486221

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=99193&d=1545120618

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=99222&d=1545154065

[Vspeeds]

On December 22, 2018 I fired her up for the first time. I'm a little behind on the forum updates but I posted a video on the first start on a separate thread yesterday (12/26/18). I also took it out on my first go-kart yesterday! I'll post a video later. Here is the first start video:

https://youtu.be/j-thGMcANhI

[jolsen42]

Any idea if the Hawk 289 grill fits? Your mach up looks great.
I look forward to seeing the under car exhaust.

Yes it does, perhaps with a little modifying. I purchased mine about 8 yrs ago. It's a work of art.

John O

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v668/jolsen42/003_zps2mc6rpj1.jpg

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v668/jolsen42/005_zpsfdm4p1rd.jpg

[Vspeeds]

Here is a video of my first go-kart around my neighborhood. I don't think I went any faster than 30 mph. The steering wheel was loose and for the 2nd ride i had put on the Russ Thompson turn signal. Everything seems fine so far; engine, clutch, brakes, all good and no leaks.



https://youtu.be/pgS7AL52VXU

[GoDadGo]

Congratulations On Achieving This Major Milestone!

[Straversi]

Congratulations. Looks and sounds great. I love the under car exhaust. Nice work.
-Steve

[BB767]

Nice job Eddie! Makes me anxious for some warmer, or at least dryer, weather.

[Vspeeds]

Thanks guys. I am really happy with the way it drives. I'm glad the clutch feels good and is not grabby. I haven't yet went any faster than 60 mph.

[Vspeeds]

With the dash board in place, and with the bracket on the Russ Thompson turn signal, you cannot mount the turn signal through the dashboard. it requires you to place the turn signal assembly onto the dashboard as you are mounting the dashboard. During fitment, I managed to really scuff up the main tube of the turn signal as it was rubbing against the dashboard. The scuff marks are under the blue tape but you can see a little of it. The best way I've found to install was to remove the 2 rivets supporting the bracket, mount the dashboard then slide the turn signal down the steering shaft, then re-attach the bracket. So to make life a little easier, I have replaced the rivets with 10-24 rivnuts. As you can see in the picture, both rivnuts will clear the steering shaft. Then I milled out the spacers just a bit so the base of the rivnut would fit inside the spacer. Then I used a weatherpack connector to tie into the wiring harness. The pushbutton on the end of the turn signal arm is used for the speedometer/odometer reset button. For that I bought an extra plug/button switch from Speedhut and cut off the button and soldered the wires to the other end of the weatherpack connector. Now I'll have to touch up the scuff marks before permanent assembly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100523&d=1547261211

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100525&d=1547261233

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100524&d=1547261222

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100954&d=1547966749

[Vspeeds]

Here is a build update. I have about 50 plus miles in go-kart stage. Everything seemed fine except I was getting a little grind when going into reverse in the TKO600. I did the "put in forward gear, then reverse" trick and it seemed to help. However, I decided to bleed the hydraulic throwout bearing one last time. In doing so, I forgot to secure and make sure the bleed hose line would not rub against the rotating clutch. Well it did and it caused the line to fail. This happened a few days before I was scheduled to bring the car to the paint shop. So the vehicle is now at the body/paint shop getting the doors, hood, and trunk hung and aligned. Then the body will be removed and next week, Feb. 12, 2019, I'll be able to tow the chassis back home to fix the hydraulic throwout bearing. The bleed hose line is permanently attached to the bearing and does not have a removable union at the bearing end. The only way to fix it is to remove the transmission! Since my install is not that complicated, I think it will be easiest to remove the engine and transmission altogether. So for time constraints I decided to replace the bearing with a new one rather than trying to repair the old one. I'm glad it is still in go kart stage as I'm not sure if I would want to remove the engine while the body is on. While the chassis is back home I'll also put most of the carpet in and finish the interior and dashboard. Then we'll tow the car back to the shop and hopefully in March/April, I'll have a completed and painted car.

Here are a few pics of the damaged bleed line as well as my practice dashboard setup. For the dashboard I'm copying EdwardB's build using 1/8" Volara sculpting foam and the DAP Weldwood contact cement. I also purchased faux leather "Symphony Classic-black" all from YourAutoTrim.com.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=100953&d=1547966731

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101757&d=1549311731

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101756&d=1549311720

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101758&d=1549311738

[Vspeeds]

I drained the coolant and transmission oil and removed the engine and transmission on 2/22/19 and replaced the HRB. The following day on the 23rd, we installed it back onto the chassis. It wasn't difficult but just time consuming. I was gone all week and was able to work on the car again today. Added transmission oil and coolant. I can't believe the price for the coolant $16 a gallon. That little mistake of not properly securing the HRB bleed line sure was a costly mistake. Today I started her up and took a ride around the neighborhood. Everything seems fine. No leaks or funny noises. Here is a photo of the ruptured bleed line.

Also a photo of the body at Ken Pikes.

Next is to complete the dashboard and install the carpet.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103009&d=1551482285

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103008&d=1551482267

[Vspeeds]

I put another 4 gallons of fuel in and drove the go-kart. What a blast!

Last week I put on temporary turn signals and brake lights and drove around the neighborhood. I originally ditched the supplied trailer harness as I understand they do not work with the rear LED lights. So I originally wired in the diodes that were suggested. The diodes worked fine. However, the drawback is that they do not allow the flasher to flash when the rear brakes are applied. So I ended up purchasing a powered trailer converter and removed the diodes. It was pretty simple wiring conversion. I used the same connectors as the diodes and added a power wire and ground. The extra wires on the converter were just cut and capped. Now with the converter wired in, the turn signals and hazards flash when the brakes are applied.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103967&d=1552890089

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103966&d=1552889692

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103971&d=1552890754

[Vspeeds]

Here are some photos of my dashboard. I don't know how some guys really tidy up the wiring behind the dash and make it look clean. I suppose I could cut, splice, solder, re-size everything. But that is too much for me to handle...and I skimped on the wire ties as I want to be able to access the gauges with the dashboard still on.

The dashboard was a blank that I drilled openings for. The supplies I got from wareaglescotts thread: yourautotrim.com. The covering is 1/8" thick volara foam and Symphony Classic Black faux leather. The glue I used was sprayed with Weldwood contact cement [by the way this is the stuff movie makers use when they burn people in cinema (with fireproof clothing of course)].

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103974&d=1552891529

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103973&d=1552891519

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103972&d=1552891507

[EZ$]

Eddie, I wish that I had kept up with your build thread better. Just caught up, and the situation that you had with the Russ Thompson turn signal unit was the same thing I was running into. I decided to call Russ to see if I was doing something wrong. Turns out, there's a small screw on the side with the turn signal arm, just below it actually. If you loosen it you can remove the large collar portion of the unit, leaving just the column. You can install the column, and the dash slides right over it, and just put the collar back on after the dash is on.
As far as the wires behind the dash, I'm with you, too much to handle to clean it up!

Rick

[Vspeeds]

Eddie, I wish that I had kept up with your build thread better. Just caught up, and the situation that you had with the Russ Thompson turn signal unit was the same thing I was running into. I decided to call Russ to see if I was doing something wrong. Turns out, there's a small screw on the side with the turn signal arm, just below it actually. If you loosen it you can remove the large collar portion of the unit, leaving just the column. You can install the column, and the dash slides right over it, and just put the collar back on after the dash is on.
As far as the wires behind the dash, I'm with you, too much to handle to clean it up!

Rick

Ez$
I saw that screw. I was too scared to remove it. I was thinking about calling Russ but I never did. Good to know that the assembly can be taken apart. Thanks

[Vspeeds]

I started on the carpet installation. I decided to put carpet edging on the seams using the left-over faux leather from the dashboard. I wasn't too happy with the results, but I'm going to have to live with it for now. Actually the straight runs are good its just the radii and right angles that are all kinked up. However, the floor mats cover all that up. The trans tunnel cover is removable just aft of the center dash supports.I still have to figure out how i'm going to make the carpet transition from the tunnel to the fixed portion. Again that's because of the right angles and curves needed. I also made a shift boot cover with the left overs. That I'm happy with. Stitching the faux leather was pretty simple but the thick carpet was a lot harder than I anticipated. I also made aluminum panels to protect the carpet near the accelerator pedal and clutch area pedal foot rest. That was made with the cut out piece from the drop trunk mod.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103958&d=1552887094

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103959&d=1552887103

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104836&d=1554083911

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104833&d=1554083893

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104835&d=1554083910

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104837&d=1554083912

[Mark Eaton]

Looks good Eddie, I can't believe you sewed your own shift lever boot. Can I put in an order for one? LOL.

[Vspeeds]

Looks good Eddie, I can't believe you sewed your own shift lever boot. Can I put in an order for one? LOL.

Mark
Let me know and I'll make you a shift boot.

Here is the e-brake boot I made by taking the original apart and using that as a pattern. In the picture you could see where I don't like the carpet transition from the removable Trans tunnel to the fixed portion under the center dash supports. I'm going to have to practice some more stitching and figure out how I'm going to make that look better.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104953&d=1554246829

[Vspeeds]

I originally used the hydraulic reservoir supplied with the complete kit (plus 2 purchased ones). I heard they leak but I went ahead and used them anyways. They leak at the area where the neck and the body meet. I figured if I don't fill the reservoirs up to the neck I'd be OK. Well they do leak and I didn't like that. Since the body is not on yet, I replaced the supplied reservoirs with the Wilwood ones. The drawback with the Wilwwods is the price. Also they have a weird thread size that you can't get fittings for. It has a -3AN fitting and I had to get a -3AN to -4AN fitting then a -4AN elbow to a 1/4"hose barb fitting to be able to use the existing hoses.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96902&d=1541393169

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104950&d=1554246803

[Vspeeds]

In California I'll need the closed PCV system in order to pass the BAR. I replaced the breather with this Trickflow brand unit. Then drilled out a hole in the bottom plate of the air cleaner and attached a bulkhead fitting. Then attached a PCV hose with an elbow. Hopefully this will pass inspection. I was originally just going to use this setup for inspection then remove it. But I like the Trickflow oil filler tube so I might just make this permanent. If so, Ill replace the hose clamps with better ones.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104951&d=1554246812

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104954&d=1554246847

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104955&d=1554246857

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104956&d=1554246869

[Vspeeds]

My body is still at the shop awaiting paint. I have over 450 go kart miles on the odometer. Here is a quick video of starting it up and idling.

https://youtu.be/7A8o8L5d5XI

[Mark Eaton]

Awesome! I love that Roush engine. Your build looks really clean Eddie.

[Straversi]

Looks and sounds great. Love that under car exhaust. Nice work.
-Steve

[CobraboyDR]

This engine has been sitting in my garage for the last several years

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72471&d=1502996573
(old photo from computer resized)

I'm thinking I might change out the Holly carb and installing a bolt on FiTech EFI.I'm looking through this thread again.

I have to say that is the coolest steerable engine stand I've ever seen.

[Vspeeds]

Thanks Mark and Steve. I cant wait to drive this thing when the body is finished.

CobraboyDR: that stand is cool. Unfortunately its not mine. It was made by the guys at Roush to show the engine. And Those are gocart wheels

[Vspeeds]

While I've been waiting for the body to get painted, I've gotten a little braver in go-carting. During normal driving everything seemed ok. However, lately Ive been driving a little more aggressive. I noticed when I make a sharp right turn carrying a little speed, the engine would stutter. When I was deciding on an in tank fuel pump. I heard the stock hanger with its 1/4" return line was too restrictive and with its outlet set up high in the hanger, the return fuel would aerate the fuel. I opted to not use the stack hanger. Instead I bought a fuel pump system which I had to drill a larger hole in the tank and dropped the assembly into the tank. The pickup was outside of the baffle. I was told that as long as the pickup sock touches fuel id be OK. Well without the baffle the fuel just sloshed which caused the stutter. Thanks to Brien (BB767) he showed me this improved hanger which has a 3/8" return line with a longer outlet which returns the fuel towards the bottom and within the fuel level itself which eliminates the aeration. It also has -6AN fuel fittings. This assembly would fit on the stock opening and would pickup the fuel in the stock tank baffle. The company website has a cool video to show the aeration caused by the stock hanger.

To fix the issue, I had to buy a new tank and the new hanger and I re-used the old pump. The old fuel lines just screwed into the -6AN fittings. Everything is now installed. I put another 20 miles on the car with no stutter at all. I wish I would have known about this product before as it would have saved me some $$$

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=107426&d=1558135436

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=107427&d=1558135444

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=107428&d=1558135454

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=107429&d=1558135462


Thanks Brien for showing me that hanger.

[BB767]

No problem Eddie! Can't wait to see you on the road!

[Vspeeds]

The body was painted last Friday. Here are a few pics.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108738&d=1560364276

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108730&d=1560363755

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108731&d=1560363777

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108732&d=1560363778

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108733&d=1560363779

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108734&d=1560363903

[cnutting]

Looks great Eddie!

[BB767]

And you thought it would never get done! Look at it now.

[japollon]

Looks stunning E! When will you get it back home? J

[Straversi]

The contours and body lines look great in that color. Great choice.
-Steve

[Jimtmich]

Can’t wait to see it all back together. Silver is a great choice.

[Vspeeds]

Here are a few more photos. The painted body is on the chassis. Ken did an exceptional job and I couldn't be happier with the way it turned out. We picked up the car and brought it back home on July 2. Unfortunately, i had to work on the 2nd. We brought the car back, drove around the block a few times and I parked it in the garage and I left for my 110 mile commute to work. I haven't been home yet. I'll be home tomorrow afternoon (July 6). I can't wait to start putting the cobra back together when i get home tomorrow.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110151&d=1562359124

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110152&d=1562359159

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110154&d=1562359160

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110153&d=1562359160

[chuckster]

Looks Like we’re on parallel tracks my friend. Mine came home from the paint shop on 28 June and it just rolled out the door of my garage all put back together this morning. My son and I went for a ride this afternoon but only for about a half hour because with 90 degree outside temperatures It’s about 120 in the cockpit.

[cnutting]

Looks like the home stretch Eddie. Ken did a great job.

[CobraboyDR]

I am intrigued by your exhaust system. Did you post some pics of it somewhere?

[Jimtmich]

Beautiful silver paint!

[Vspeeds]

Looks Like we’re on parallel tracks my friend. Mine came home from the paint shop on 28 June and it just rolled out the door of my garage all put back together this morning. My son and I went for a ride this afternoon but only for about a half hour because with 90 degree outside temperatures It’s about 120 in the cockpit.

Yes we are on a parallel track and my number is only 8 ahead of yours (9180). These cars do get a little hot and uncomfortable but i look forward to be able to drive it this summer.

[Vspeeds]

Beautiful silver paint!


Thanks. The color is called Aston Martin Skyfall Silver

[Vspeeds]

I am intrigued by your exhaust system. Did you post some pics of it somewhere?

There are some pics posted in this thread. Post#106

[Vspeeds]

I got home from work on July 6th and started to put the car back together. The next day on July 7th I was able to drive it for the first time with the body on. Here are a couple of pictures of when I set the headlights and aimed them. Then I went for an evening drive. I still have to reinstall the oil cooler and a little more jewelry.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110447&d=1562739327

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110446&d=1562739318

[Vspeeds]

My driver door got stuck today. I was able to open it with a little finesse. Further examination revealed the chrome latch handle came off of its center access rotating thingy. The picture shows it better than my explanation. Apparently this is a common issue and awhile back I saved the forum threads that fixed the problem. I didn't anticipate having to do this early as I only opened and closed the door less than 100 times. Just like the threads said; I used a 5/16 carriage bolt by 3/4" length, a washer, and a lock nut. The square part of the bolt fits perfectly in the rotating hinge. I did have to grind down a little material in the hinge so the washer would lay flush. I used lithium grease and put it all back together. Probably a ten minute fix for each latch.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110443&d=1562738901

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110438&d=1562738901

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110442&d=1562738901

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110441&d=1562738901

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110440&d=1562738901

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110439&d=1562738901

[Raceral]

I like your narrow rear tire.

[Raceral]

Great looking build.. Job well done

[Vspeeds]

I decided to make my own door panels. I used this Celtec brand expanded pvc stuff I had already at home. Its size is 1/8" thickness (not the thickness shown in the photo). I use this stuff for model making and I love it. The faux leather is left-overs from my dashboard. I bought elastic from Joanns Fabrics. This pocket on the driver side perfectly holds my ear plugs, gloves, and sunglass case, and there's room for more. I still have to complete the aluminum around the door threshold.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110745&d=1563198682

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110742&d=1563198492

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110741&d=1563198492

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110737&d=1563198492

[Vspeeds]

Here are a few more pics. I still have to put the front grill on and some aluminum panels. I passed my Brake and Lamp inspection last week and I go to CHP on July 29 for VIN assignment.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110837&d=1563427217

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110836&d=1563427207

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110835&d=1563427199

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110834&d=1563427190

[cnutting]

Almost there Eddie! Nice clean look!

[Vspeeds]

Heres an update. Im still in the process of getting the car registered. I had my CHP appointment and they assigned my VIN. Then i immediately went to DMV and they issued me my SB100 sequence number and a temporary operating permit. Now i have to wait for the physical certificate in the mail from DMV. When i receive that certificate i could go to the CARB referee for an inspection and that should finalize my CA DMV registration process.

I have about 1300 miles on it now. Unfortunatelly last week while driving on the freeway, my engine just died. I had to get the car towed home. Turns out my MSD ignition box went out and i have to replace/repair it.

[Vspeeds]

My apologies to my relatives that have been bugging me asking for an update. Well here it is. Back in August 17, 2019, I had a bad coil and I replaced it. Everything ran fine until later that day when a backfire occurred and the engine stopped running. I couldn't start the car. Had it towed home, again. Turns out the camshaft gear stripped! AND IT WAS 2 DAYS PRIOR TO MY APPOINTMENT AT THE CALIFORNIA BAR! So I had to pull the engine , again, and sent it to TEM Machine Shop in Napa, CA. Rich at TEM's tore the engine apart and for the most part there was minimal damage to the engine and components. The camshaft which was a proprietary cam from Roush did not have an over the counter replacement with the same specs. Since I liked the cam when it was running, we decided to have Schneider Racing Cams out of San Diego duplicate a billet cam for me. So I got the engine back and installed it back in the car on January 17, 2020. Everything seems fine. So I'm back into the CA registration process. I have an appointment to the CA BAR on January 22, 2020. Hopefully everything passes and I'm planning on going to DMV immediately after the inspection to finally get this car registered. I'm so close and I can't wait!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=112868&d=1566600906

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=112867&d=1566600866

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120896&d=1579495906

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https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120899&d=1579495942

[Mark Eaton]

Holy crap Eddie! You've got to be kidding me! First your throw out bearing thing and now this?! All I can say is "Hang in there Brother" !!

Mark

[Vspeeds]

Holy crap Eddie! You've got to be kidding me! First your throw out bearing thing and now this?! All I can say is "Hang in there Brother" !!

Mark

Mark
The hydraulic release bearing failure was 100% my mistake. I let the bleed line rub up against the rotating clutch. This camshaft from Roush is a mystery. Roush did admit back in the era my engine was built (2009) there was a bad batch of Twisted Wedge cams. However, since I installed the engine 9 years after it was built, it was no longer under warranty. I had the engine repaired locally and its all good now.

[Vspeeds]

FINALLY GOT MY LICENSE PLATES AND THE CAR IS LEGAL TO DRIVE! Went to DMV on January 23, 2020 and now its fully registered under CA SB100, smog exemption!

[cnutting]

congratulations Eddie!

[Vspeeds]

I've been practicing social distancing by commuting to work and taking the backroads. I have over 3500 miles on it so far. Besides having to still fine tune the Fitech EFI (after start rough idle for 10 seconds), everything. is running great. I love driving this car! I added a luggage rack and plan to use it this summer when this whole Covid-19 craziness dies down. I also added a quick release removable steering wheel. If anybody wants to add a quick release removable steering wheel and are using the Russ Thompson turn signal, here is a great thread:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?34975-Quick-Release-Russ-Thompson-turn-signal

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125186&d=1585462711

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124418&d=1584726664

[Mark Eaton]

Eddie, good job on the social distancing and it is awesome that you are using your 289 for your long commute! I too am loving driving my MK4. I've got 500 miles on it so far.

[Yolo]

How did the build go. I am new to this and appreciated your words. Considering the 289 also. Thanks Rich

[Vspeeds]

How did the build go. I am new to this and appreciated your words. Considering the 289 also. Thanks Rich

Rich
The build was fun. I sent you a private message.

[OttawaFFRer]

Here is a drool-worthy 289FIA from Unique:

https://imageshack.com/a/img924/5981/GgrAdz.jpg

https://imageshack.com/a/img924/8506/L4qIsN.jpg

https://imageshack.com/a/img924/4066/DO6n8i.jpg

I like wires, but I also like these FIA wheels.

I'd delete the roll bar and rear bumper, opting for just overrriders, but I suspect registration required it. IMO, it's mounted wat too far off the body.

The color? Cosmic, and the tan interior is excellent!

This is the first car I've noticed the drivers side dash is cut higher than the passenger. I wonder if it's unique to unique cars.
Currently working on the dash so pouring through the build threads yet again.

[Vspeeds]

Thats a sweet car.

[Vspeeds]

Here is a YouTube video that Travis D made of my car:

https://youtu.be/UYypZiWWUJQ

[edtbjon]

Excellent build thread, with a lot of "nitty gritty detail" things to learn. Thank you for all the updates and your hard work!!!

[jolsen42]

I see that you didn't finish the grill, Any reason? or do you just like the look without?

John O

[Vspeeds]

I see that you didn't finish the grill, Any reason? or do you just like the look without?

John O

I drive the car a lot and the grill would be a pain to clean. I can barely keep the brake dust off the wheels.