View Full Version : 818S Seatbelts
capt. bill
08-08-2017, 04:49 PM
Has anyone else had an issue with figuring-out how to mount/route the stock 2006 WRX donor car seat belts/shoulder straps; into the kit? Capt. Bill
autostang
08-09-2017, 12:05 AM
Are they the wagon or sedan belts? I've had enough issues with the sedan belts locking up on me that i will be switching to 4 point harnesses. When the belt locks up it requires the removal of the shoulder mounting point to unlock.
aquillen
08-09-2017, 11:32 AM
I'm not positive but pretty sure you can expect that the seat-belt spool, regardless of Subaru or other brand, must be installed as level as possible. If it has a tilt on it, there is every chance it will be more sensitive to locking up. I believe they are typically designed to (1) lock at sudden extension and (2) lock in a tip/rollover. I think a combination of the two increases the sensitivity, so mounting off-level makes them even more likely to lock during each extension event. I tested two Subie and two Lexus units, different designs, but both acted this way.
SnyderJD
08-09-2017, 01:36 PM
you can pop the case off and remove the orange box with the weight.. this will at least fix the lockup issue... there are 3 plastic pins you push out of the cover clips and then it pops off easily. it will still lock at sudden extension.
AZPete
08-09-2017, 04:10 PM
Seatbeltsplus.com
A pair of these are working well for me, plus you can pick your color.
SnyderJD
08-15-2017, 10:33 AM
Pete,
where did you end up mounting your outboard points on the 3 point? I am running a 3 point for daily and 6 point for track days. I am struggling with the idea of drilling through the frame side rail for the outboard mounting point.
fastzrex
08-15-2017, 11:56 AM
Pete,
where did you end up mounting your outboard points on the 3 point? I am running a 3 point for daily and 6 point for track days. I am struggling with the idea of drilling through the frame side rail for the outboard mounting point.
Drill that side frame rail concerned me also. Long in my past, I worked tubular aircraft frames for old tail dragger aircraft. When there was a modification to a tube for whatever reason, one of several correct methods was to drill the hole oversize, insert and weld a tube of the proper ID (for the bolt) into large tube. This method results in a stronger than original design as you have added more structure to this area and will not let the tube collapse when compression is applied (such as when tightening the bolt). I used a mild steel tube of .625 OD and about .440" ID which will allow a 7/16 bolt to secure the seatbelt to the frame. Your local Lowes, Ace Hardware, or Home Depot may have appropriate mild steel tube. I ordered from Online Metals so I could get very close to ID and OD to fit into the square frame tube of the chassis.
I am sure Pete will reply, as he has ample real experience in an on road car (as I am still building). But I am using the wgon belts as they seem to be better located than the sedan belts (available on eBay).