Crimping tool what are you using?

[Chef818]

Good afternoon, just wanted to see what everyone was using as their crimping tool, thank you

[phil1734]

I bought a run-of-the-mill ratcheting one for about $30 from an autoparts store thinking it was pretty slick and be good enough for a weekend warrior such as myself. Did about 20 or 30 splices and then had one fall off in my hand. Went back and pulled the rest of them apart with minimal effort. Sad.

Went back to the ~$5 generic one that came with a kit of assorted connectors and haven't been able to pull one apart, though you really have to reef on it and it kills your hands after just a few.

I haven't seen a whole lot of options between the $30 one and the $100+ ones (that still look identical to the $30 one to me) but there has to be something out there.

[UnhipPopano]

Most good crimping tools make an assumption that the "Right" wire is going to be used. Unfortunately, too much wire that is out there is undersized. The Ultimate crimp applies enough force to remove the space between the wire strands and would prevent oxidation from increasing the resistance of the circuit. In reality, most crimps are just tight enough to keep the wire from falling out, and that is based on the user not using the inexpensive undersized wire.

[Mountain-Metalworks]

I've had good luck with this one from Astro Tools here on Amazon. (https://www.amazon.com/Astro-9477-Professional-Interchangeable-Tool/dp/B0045CUMLQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501899706&sr=8-2&keywords=astro+tools+crimper)

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81lY8qYofOL._SY355_.jpg

It has different dies for insulated and uninsulated, all the open barrel stuff used in Delphi, Bosch, and other weather pack connectors, etc... I even got an extra die set for doing spark plug wires after my cheap plug crimper failed me. Not cheap but not crazy expensive and the only poor crimps were user error on my part.

-TJ

[wirelessnut]

X2 on what jeepurz said. This is a good crimp set. You must use the correct size die for the wire size you are crimping. Wire Size does matter here.
I crimp hundreds of wires each week. (dont let the screen name fool you). I just work in the wireless world.
I have crimp sets that cost $100s ,but this set I use most.

P.s. Use a high quality heat shrink over you crimps. Most crimps fail due to moisture getting into the wire.

Wes

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Here is a thread abut my wire dissection

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?19795-Michael-s-and-Bob-s-Second-818-build-(red-frame)&p=225246&viewfull=1#post225246

A good fried of mine gave me this crimper 22 years ago as a Christmas present.
http://www.toolup.com/Ideal-30-429-Multi-Crimp-Tool
I owe him for life.

I only use quality brazed seamed non-insulated connector with adhesive lined heat shrink.
Bob

[Big Blocker]

T & B the kind that "roll" the outer shell of the terminal "tube" in on itself - NOT a flat crush.

Ask almost any electrician what they use for "control work", you'll get the same answer . . . T & B

X2 (or 3) on the shrink tubing after and the NON-insulated type.

Doc

[alv69]

another t&b crimper user, a retired electrician that used this all the time in my work.

[i.e.427]

Follow the link to our page. There is an instructional thread on how to properly crimp solderless terminals. We too use the T&B crimper. The tool is over 30 years old and still make perfect terminations. https://www.facebook.com/pg/IE427-891650054204648/photos/?tab=album&album_id=936571779712475 It's amazing how often the solderless terminals are crimped the WRONG way.

[frankc5r]

Another vote for the Thomas and Betts crimper. I cut the wire cutter off at front so I could get close in to crimp in tight situations. Don't like the crimper that just squeeze both sides. The T&B puts a
deep dimple in back side of terminal. I use seamless or brazed terminals with Raychem heatshrink. If I use brazed, I put dimple on backside opposite the brazed joint so I don't crack the brazed joint.

My background was in both Ford and GM factory race programs. Cars I have done have survived Lemans and 24 hrs of Daytona and won.

[first time builder]

Solder and shrink tube NO CRIMPS. I even solder the Weatherpacks after crimping.
Kenny

[Wayne Presley]

Soldering is great for things that don't move or vibrate but not so great for automotive wiring. Proper crimps are the way to go. And I use the Thomas and Betts style of crimper

[UnhipPopano]

Wayne is correct that those who do not know how to properly solder and do not have the correct equipment, a crimped connection will be the better choice.

[iWire]

In general I would say a good crimp and a good solder joint are essentially equal and bad joint is a bad joint. The problem tends to be that people don't use good crimps or have the right tools so many times a solder joint is more likely to make a good connection that will last but certainly it depends on the individual and their skill and tool set.

For iWire builds of any kind, we use a mix of crimps and solder depending on the wire gauge, how many wires coming together, and where they are located in the car. Generally single to single small gauge joints in the cabin would be a solder joint with good quality shrink tube to keep the bundle size down especially in harness merges where a number of joints are going to be in a relatively small space without any bends. In contrast multiple wires coming in together or a large gauge would get a non insulated crimp and shrink tube (generally adhesive). In the engine bay we crimp almost everything due to things more likely being less secure causing more vibration, more places where the harness is bending around corners, and the environment is harsher

[Chef818]

What brands / types would you say are "good" heat shrink tubing?

[Wayne Presley]

In general I would say a good crimp and a good solder joint are essentially equal and bad joint is a bad joint. The problem tends to be that people don't use good crimps or have the right tools so many times a solder joint is more likely to make a good connection that will last but certainly it depends on the individual and their skill and tool set.

For iWire builds of any kind, we use a mix of crimps and solder depending on the wire gauge, how many wires coming together, and where they are located in the car. Generally single to single small gauge joints in the cabin would be a solder joint with good quality shrink tube to keep the bundle size down especially in harness merges where a number of joints are going to be in a relatively small space without any bends. In contrast multiple wires coming in together or a large gauge would get a non insulated crimp and shrink tube (generally adhesive). In the engine bay we crimp almost everything due to things more likely being less secure causing more vibration, more places where the harness is bending around corners, and the environment is harsher


What he said, if you solder anything, make sure you do it well and support the ends for strain relief.

[iWire]

What brands / types would you say are "good" heat shrink tubing?

We use 3M for most of our shrink tube.

[Kyle @ Forma]

Good afternoon, just wanted to see what everyone was using as their crimping tool, thank you

I do all of the harness work on our builds, so threads like this make me finally feel useful :cool:

My best advice is to pick the series of connectors/splices that you'll be using, then purchasing the proper crimp tool for them. For example, if you plan to use Metri-pack connectors, get a crimp tool designed for the Metri-Pack. Now get a different crimp tool to use with your splices, since they will not be Metri-Pack. Take it a step further and make sure your tools are ratcheting. These application-specific crimpers will give you more consistent results than a "universal" type crimp tool, and the ratchet will ensure you get a complete crimp every time. Yes it'll probably cost more this way, but it's worth it to avoid possible electrical gremlins down the line.

As for heat shrink, use adhesive lined heat-shrink on any non-insulated splices or soldered joints. 3:1 doesn't cost much more, and will make your life easier. 3/16" OD 3:1 is my most commonly used size, since it'll fit over my splices but also shrink down on a single 18AWG wire.

You could also save yourself a step and get splices that already have adhesive heat-shrink insulation on them. I've had great experience with the Molex Perma-Seal series. They have splices as well as various connectors, all of which are insulated.
18-22 Splice: https://www.waytekwire.com/item/30980/Molex-19164-0013-Perma-Seal-Butt-Connector-/
Tool: https://www.waytekwire.com/item/479/Molex-64016-0041-Perma-Seal-Hand-Crimping-Tool-/

If you saw the arsenal of crimp tools I use, you'd think I've been shocked one time too many.

[Chef818]

How about for these connectors?
73932

[Wayne Presley]

How about for these connectors?
73932

Those are Deutsch connectors and are very good.

[iWire]

How about for these connectors?
73932

Actually these are OEM connectors for the CAM/Crank/Knock. You can use a basic tool like this - https://www.amazon.com/SARGENT-Tools-1028-CT-Contact/dp/B00CIRFSEG/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1506010970&sr=8-6&keywords=sargent+crimp+tool

If anyone needs one we sell them. ;)
https://www.iwireservices.com/product-page/cam-crank-knock-receptacle