Matt's Gen2 65 Coupe Build Thread

[mtwarog]

I had my build thread on the other site, but now that I'm finished I decided that I'll duplicate the build thread on this site as well. I had posted my photos on photobucket, but now that they've eliminated 3rd party hosting, all the pictures don't show up, so I'm starting to slowly upload my pictures to the gallery here. That way the pictures will be with the site and hopefully will stay together with the build thread. It'll take a while to complete the process, but I figure if I do a little each day soon it will be finished. Bare with me and I apologize if it may seem funny when I write "today" for something that happened in the past, since a lot of this will be cut and paste.

We'll see how it works out and hopefully it will be helpful to people as their build their cars.

Thanks.
-Matt

[mtwarog]

In October 2013, my Dad, his friend and I took the 1.5 hour trip from Hubbardston, MA to Wareham, to take a tour of the Factory Five headquarters. A few weeks later I ordered up the 65 Coupe complete kit with IRS. In the time between when the kit was ordered and when I picked it up, I spent many hours reading this forum, ordering the Russ Thompson turn signal system and windows, mustang pedal box from Mike Everson, and steering rack and IRS and brakes from Mike Forte. Also spent time trying to understand the rules in MA on getting this car registered.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

January 4th, 2014 was the pickup date.

To prepare for the pickup, I modified my Dad's BigTex trailer by screwing in some scrap wooden trusses from our addition we built. Yes, the basement under the new addition will be where the coupe is being built. I added some plywood on the side and some old deck boards on the top that the car will rest on. By using the trusses I was able to build a nice deck for the car to rest on and be above the rails of the trailer.

My Dad came over around 7am and we hitched up the trailer to my truck. It was the coldest morning in a long time as temps were -9F at my house. On the ride down it hit -14F. We arrived at FFR around 9am and waited only a few minutes while they loaded someone in front of me. Got in the truck and backed the trailer into the loading area. It was complete luck that I was able to back it in straight as I couldn't see the trailer as I was backing it in. We got it loaded up and we were on our way home.

As we got close to home it had snowed and the salt and sanding trucks had been out. So even though it had only warmed up to the upper teens, the roads were getting sloppy. You can see by the pictures below the salt that got kicked up onto the body. Backed it in again into my basement and brought in all the boxes.

As we sat with the car on the trailer, we realized with just 2 people we couldn't move it. After thinking about it for a few minutes, we were off to my Dad's house the next town over to pickup the engine lift. We brought the engine lift back and were able to lift the chassis through the front windshield, much like they did at FFR to load it up. A few minutes later it was off the trailer and sitting on the jack stands. Then it was time to go out to dinner.

The first picture is at FFR before the picture. The last 3 are after the sloppy trip back home in my basement.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71265&d=1501339084

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71262&d=1501339080

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71263&d=1501339082

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71264&d=1501339083

-Matt

[mtwarog]

After researching what it will take to get this car on the road in MA, it looks like there were 3 options for the engine:
1. Get a donor car and use engine and associated emissions from that car.
2. Get a pre 1974 car with a V8 that has been registered in the past 5 years and scrap it.
3. Get a pre 1974 engine and rebuild it.

This is all in theory as I haven't finished the car and gone through the process yet.

With that being said, I'm trying to go with option 3. I found a 1971 Ford Mustang at a junk yard in RI with a 302 in it. I called up and inquired about it and the person said the engine turned over when it came to them. It had been sitting outside in their yard for a bunch of years. I told them I'd take it. It was under a bunch of snow, so they said it would take a few days to pull it out. A few days later, I received a call saying that got the engine out, but it wouldn't turn over. He said he'd try soaking the cylinders with oil for a few days and see if that would help. Got a call a few days later saying, "nope, still wouldn't turn over". I figured oh well, it'll be a learning experience. I bought the engine anyways, loaded it up on my truck and took it home.

There was a picture of the car it came out of on the yard's website. The car looked in pretty good condition, which probably wasn't a good thing. I started thinking there are probably two main reasons a car is in a yard.
1. The car is totaled
2. There is something wrong with the engine or tranny.

We'll it wasn't reason 1, so it had to be reason 2. I was just hoping the block wasn't cracked.

Below are two pics of the car it came out of and a few of the engine on my truck.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71276&d=1501340531

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71277&d=1501340532

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71273&d=1501340527

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71274&d=1501340529

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71275&d=1501340530

-Matt

[mtwarog]

I got the engine back home and first thing that I did was to find the block number. After I scraped away all the grime I was able to read the numbers: D1ZM-6015-AA 10L0
Then back to the internet to confirm that it actually is a 302 from a 1971 Mustang. Come to find out it is a 1971 and it's a Mexican block. After reading up about the Mexican block there's a debate as to whether it is made of different material and therefore stronger. I don't know, but I do know the main caps are bulkier than the non-Mexican block. Well at least it is a 1971 block, now just hoping it is all in one piece.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71334&d=1501415682

Now for the fun part. Tear everything apart and see what is left. I had never done this before, so I didn't know what to expect. The good thing was that I didn't need to put it back together, so I could just take apart stuff and not worry about which bolt/part went where. Armed with a can of Kroil, hammers and a bunch of wrenches I had at it. What a mess. Finally got down to the pistons. Sure enough they wouldn't budge. So I soaked them with Kroil and had at it the next day. A couple of these came out fairly easy, but there were a couple that wouldn't budge. I thought to myself, I need a bigger hammer. So I got my maul, took a couple of swings and had all the pistons out.

I took a look at the block and it appeared to be in one piece, but can't be sure until I take it to Forte's and have them check it out.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71332&d=1501415680

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71333&d=1501415681

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71335&d=1501415683

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71331&d=1501415679

-Matt

[mtwarog]

After I tore everything apart and was left with the block, I took it down to Mike Forte's place to have Jesse build it back up for me. The first thing the Jesse did was to bake it and clean it up. Then he was going to magnaflux it and confirm the block was good. After a few days, I received the good news that the block was "A ok!!" and that he was proceeding with the machine work. I was a big relief to know the block was good.

I had asked him to build me up a 347 with about 375hp. Using a RPM air gap intake, AFR 185 Renegade Heads, Holley Terminator EFI and March Performance Sport Track serpentine system.

I finally received the call that the engine was just about ready and he was going to put it on the dyno to check it out. After the dyno run, he came back to me and said everything is running great, but it's putting out a little more HP than what I had asked for. It dyno'd at 422.8HP @5650, 426.5 torque @4800.

Here's a link to the dyno run:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJSLRRLcIro

Here's the graph:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71343&d=1501416684

A few days later my Dad and I took the trip down to Forte's and picked it up along with a Tremec TKO500.

Here are some pictures with it back in my basement:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71337&d=1501416252

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71338&d=1501416253

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71339&d=1501416254

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71340&d=1501416256

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71341&d=1501416257

And to prove it is the same block:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71342&d=1501416258

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Once I got the car off the trailer, I then used the engine hoist to move the car over to the jack stands. Since I didn't want to scratch up the power coat on the frame, I bought some rubber pads for the jack stands. Here's a picture of the car on the stands and where the frame has not moved for the last year and 1/2.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71347&d=1501437072

The next step was to remove the body from the car. Since I didn't have any help at the time, I figured I'd see if I could take the body off with help from the engine hoist. I put a few straps around the roof and hooked it up to the hoist. I slowly lifted the body off and it came off without breaking anything. So that was nice.

I knew the build would take a while and wanted to have more space in the basement, so I build up a body buck out of scrap wood and a ton of deck screws. I ended up putting some left over small roller wheels on the bottom of the wooden buck to be able to move it around easier.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71350&d=1501437076

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71348&d=1501437074

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71349&d=1501437075

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71351&d=1501437077

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Once done I backed up the trailer and was able to lift the buck and body onto the trailer and bring it up to my garage. To have more space in the garage I built some supports hanging from the ceiling to store the buck and body. I put together a little pulley system and was able to pull everything up and land on the feet of the supports that I made. Here is where the body has sat every since.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71352&d=1501437514

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71353&d=1501437515

This has worked out great. And since that time we bought some kayaks and now they live next to the car body as well and keep it company.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71354&d=1501437517

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71355&d=1501437518

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Once the car body was stored away it was time to inventory the boxes and see what was in all the boxes. As I started going through I decided I was going to find all the parts with bare metal and paint them. But, then I quickly realized I didn't know what most of the parts were for and wanted to make sure I was able to put them back in the correct boxes after painting. I ended up taking some of the brown packing paper and laying the parts out and tracing them with a marker and labeling their part number and box. Here's what it ended up looking like:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71363&d=1501438332

With the smaller items, I figured now was a good time to test out my Dad's powder coating machine. He had bought the powder coating about 12 years ago, but never actually used it. So, he made a cabinet and he hooked up the old oven that was sitting in his basement. We read up on how to use it and tried it out. We were both amazed on how nice the parts came out.

Next up was to try to label the aluminum panels, so I'd have some idea how to put them back together once taken apart. Again I took a marker and went around and labeled it the best I could. Here's what the car looked like under the body before I took apart the panels.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71359&d=1501438235

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71361&d=1501438250

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71360&d=1501438243

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71357&d=1501438227

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Now that the aluminum was marked, I took some of the panels off and started going through the manual. First up was the shocks and rear end. It was at this point in the build I stopped taking pictures. I would build a little each night, but didn't really keep track of the day to day progress. So the pictures are when everything is mostly put together.

For this part of the build the manual was pretty good. When it was unclear in the manual, I went right to this forum. Any question that I had, someone else had already asked it and had it answered.

I had bought the rear brakes, knuckles, differential from Forte's, so everything went together pretty well. The rear brake lines also fit in perfectly. The crazy bend kept the lines close to the brakes and out of the way. You can see in the pictures how nice it fit. Once I saw where the lines to the brakes went, I was able to find a spot to mount the other side to the frame. I tried to make sure it wouldn't rub on the wheel and still have enough play during the up and down movement of the wheel.

I did need to get the hubs pressed into the knuckles, so I made a trip to the local Ford dealership and had it done.

You can also see the rear wheel spacers that I added. More on that in the next post.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71491&d=1501462504

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71490&d=1501462503

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71489&d=1501462502

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71488&d=1501462501

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71487&d=1501462500

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71486&d=1501462499

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71485&d=1501462496

-Matt

[mtwarog]

I've always liked black wheels, so I spent a bunch of time trying to find ones I liked. I came across the Ford Racing MUSTANG GT BLACK TRACK PACK WHEEL M-1007-DC199B and thought those were the ones.

They specs are:
19"x9" wide
42mm offset
6.8" backspacing

I knew with that offset and backspacing that to fill up the rear wheel well I'd have to get some wheel spacers. I ended up getting the biggest ones I could find at 50mm. This brought the tire to tire spacing around 71" which is slightly inside the 72" of the body. Hopefully it looks good once I get the body on. I haven't gotten the ones for the front yet as I want to see what will fit best with the hood.

For the tires I got 275/30R-19 Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2 XL on all 4's.

I brought the wheels and tires to get mounted at a local tire shop. They said it would be a few hours before they could get to them, so I dropped them off. My wife was heading back to the area later in the day and I asked if she could pick them up for me. So she comes back with a good story saying it took 4 guys to get them mounted on the rims and it took them until closing to get it done.

Here are some pictures of the wheels/tires and some on the car:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71495&d=1501462820

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71496&d=1501462822

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71494&d=1501462819

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71493&d=1501462818

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71492&d=1501462817

-Matt

[mtwarog]

After installing the gas tank, I noticed a large amount of open space between the top of the gas tank and the bottom on the floor in the truck. Like others have done, I decided to add a storage box above the tank to store tools, clothes, parts, etc.

After taking a bunch of measurements it was decided that 17.5" x 24" x 7" deep would be able to fit. I mocked up the box with cardboard from Cheerios boxes. As I was mocking it up, it looked like there was an extra piece of square metal bracing in the floor that is supposed to be used for the battery. Since I was putting the battery up front, I decided I could remove this piece, since it didn't look like it was providing any structural benefit. This will make it a little easier to install everything. Once I finished the mock up, it looked like there was more space to install a second box. I figured if one box was good, then two boxes would be better, right? :) The second smaller box ended up being 7" x 14" x 7" deep.

I made the boxes of out a sheet of aluminum that my Dad got from his friend. We cut up the pieces with a jig saw and made the bends with a brake. Once all the pieces were cut, I took them home and riveted them together. Also made a hole in the bottom with a cover to get access to the sending unit. Used rivnuts in the aluminum to hold the screws.

Installing the box required some trimming and fitting, but I eventually was able to get them in ok.


http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71499&d=1501463035

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71498&d=1501463034

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71497&d=1501463032

Just enough clearance over the tank......
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71501&d=1501463037

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71500&d=1501463036

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Now on to the parking brake. There were two reasons I didn't really love the stock location of the parking brake. The first was that the cables ran under the 4" round part of the frame and would be rubbing against the frame and didn't seem to route nicely to the stock location. The second was something that I read from someone on the forum a while back. Sorry I don't recall who, but they said once they were strapped into the drivers seat, they couldn't reach the parking brake. So they had to unstrap, release the brake, then put the seat belts back on. I could see that happening to me. After researching more what others have done, I decided to try to mount the brake on the transmission tunnel.

I took the parking brake that came with the kit and rigged it up to fit on the right side of the transmission tunnel. I cut out the cable mounts that were on the frame which were running vertically and made a piece that would put the cable mounts horizontally. This way both cables would be pulling the same. I don't know if it really would matter or not, but figured it wouldn't hurt.

To connect the cables, I bought the Lokar Parking Brake Cable Replacement Connector Block S-8070 and connected that up with a bolt to the clevis. For some reason I never feel confident that small set screws will be able to hold the brake cables, so I also wrapped the cable around the block and cinched it together with a stainless steel hose clamp. Where I mount the handle assembly to the frame, I used some bolts and nuts, so I'll be able to adjust the height of the brake above the transmission tunnel.

Lastly, needed to cut a hole in the transmission tunnel cover for the brake handle.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71505&d=1501464284

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71504&d=1501464283

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71503&d=1501464282

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71502&d=1501464281

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71506&d=1501464285

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Time for the seats. So I open up the manual and the first thing I notice and think to myself is "Hey those aren't the seats that I have." Back to the forum for more searching..... I wanted to have a slider for the driver's seat. After looking around a bunch I purchased the JEGS Performance Products 70220 seat sliders. They were the thinnest I could find to keep the seat as low as possible.

Then I bought 2 sets of Kirkey Universal Seat Brackets 99204 that I would mount to the seats.

After thinking about how to mount the seats, brackets and sliders for a while I settled on a design. I ended up using a bunch of aluminum angle and bolted the thing together.

To mount the slider to the floor, I was able to tap into the frame in two places. The third place I added some aluminum channel to spread the load. I was thinking that 3 places would be good enough. Once I got the seat together I was wrong. The seat was way too wiggly and I needed a stronger 4th mount. I ended up making a piece out of some steel and tapping it into the frame. Now the seat was solid.

For the passenger side, I used the Kirkey seat brackets and hard mounted them to the floor.

Here are the pics:

Slider parallel to transmission tunnel. Seat slightly rotated to point straight to front of the car.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71511&d=1501464705

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71510&d=1501464704

Seat mounts about 1" above the floor. Drilled holes in the seat to adjust tilt.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71509&d=1501464703

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Forward
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71508&d=1501464702

Back
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71507&d=1501464701

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71515&d=1501464793

Front left mount to spread load:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71514&d=1501464708

New bracket for right rear mount: (just noticed that scratch...)
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71513&d=1501464707

Passenger side. Used steel bar to raise seat above carpet and pad.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71512&d=1501464707

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Installing the fuel tank required bending the sides of the tank flat like mentioned in the manual. Also needed to buy longer bolts for the straps that held the tank on. With those done, the tank went up pretty easily.

I purchased Forte's 255 LPH Fuel Pump Kit for the in-tank pump. This came with 3/8in outlet and 1/4in return. I decided I was going to run 6an hose so picked up these to slip on the ends and convert to 6an.

Russell 644123 -6an male to 3/8in female QC
Russell 641303 -6an male to 1/4in female QC

Next I needed the hose and ended up using 811 Stainless Steel Braided PTFE Racing Hose, 6AN. I got these pre-made with the correct length and ends on them. I routed the hose in the transmission tunnel into the engine bay. There I connected to the fuel filter right next to the engine, so I'll be able to get access to it. Used the FUELAB 818 Series Inline Fuel Filters 81801-1 filter and needed to create a mount to keep the filter in place. Also need to create a mount for the regulator which I tied to the frame.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71516&d=1501465231

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71517&d=1501465234

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71520&d=1501465270

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71519&d=1501465268

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71518&d=1501465236

-Matt

[mtwarog]

I decided to mount the battery up front, in front of the engine on the passenger side. I went with the AFCO Racing Steel Battery Boxes 50303.
I cut off the mount on the right side of the box to move the battery closer to the right side of the car. I tapped two bolts into the 4" frame tube and two on the left side of the battery box into the X. These also double to hold the power steering cooler (seen in the pictures below) and overflow coolant tank.
Once the box was fitting correctly, I took it over to my Dad's and we powder coated it black to match the frame.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71522&d=1501465535

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71521&d=1501465521

After powder coating
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71523&d=1501465536

-Matt

[Rodster]

Matt -
Thanks for sharing your pictures and notes. I am way behind in my build, so thanks a ton.

-wayne

[Rodster]

Matt - You have IRS, right? On the battery box location -- does it block the fill and drain plugs in the pumpkin? I initially mounted a battery box there, but noticed it blocked access, so I am moving my battery to the front. My rear end came from a Lincoln, but I think all Gen 2 Coupes have the same unit, if ordered from The Factory.

[mtwarog]

Matt - You have IRS, right? On the battery box location -- does it block the fill and drain plugs in the pumpkin? I initially mounted a battery box there, but noticed it blocked access, so I am moving my battery to the front. My rear end came from a Lincoln, but I think all Gen 2 Coupes have the same unit, if ordered from The Factory.

Hi Wayne,

Yes, I have IRS and I have two storage compartment/boxes in the back that I put together, but the smaller one wasn't meant to hold the battery. I have the battery up in front. Neither box blocks the fill/drain plug for the pumpkin that I have. I know this because I neglected to put oil in the pumpkin and drove my car. Needless to say I had to replace the gears in the pumpkin and I filled it up with oil after I put it back in the car.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Bought the Vintage Air AC/Heater with the kit. There were quite a bit of pieces and wires to the kit. The first thing to do was to find a place to mount it. I wanted to find a place that fit and still would allow me to route all the hoses in some orderly fashion. This looked like a good spot. Actually my first spot was an inch or so closer to the passenger door. You can see the unused drill holes in the cross piece.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71563&d=1501551456

Next up was fitting the hoses. I was able to use 90's for both the AC lines and go directly through the firewall with the hose.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71557&d=1501551449

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71559&d=1501551452

For the heater lines I bought some Vintage Air Bulkhead Fittings 34236-VUG "10an male oring to 5/8in hose barb 90 degree (bulkhead)" and put these in behind the center console. I kept the shut off value on the inside of the car.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71561&d=1501551454

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71560&d=1501551453

The AC hoses came out between the square tubing and the footbox

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71558&d=1501551451

The heater hoses came out here inside the engine bay

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71562&d=1501551455

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Here's a picture with the drain added below the AC hoses. This is connected with 2 - 90's and shoot's straight down inside the start of the transmission tunnel.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71556&d=1501551448

Everything associated with the AC/heater/drain hoses was very tight and just barely fit. Let's hope it actually works....

-Matt

[mtwarog]

For the AC hoses, I borrowed my Dad's Mastercool 71550 Manual AC hose crimper. This worked out great. I was able to put it in my vise, then crank down the bolt and crimp the hoses. Make sure you crimp these down really tight. For the 8AN hose crank down as far as you can, ignore the mark on the tool. If you don't, you'll have a leak. I couldn't imagine trying to mark all the hoses and take them somewhere to crimp. There's no way I would have gotten the length or locations correct since there is a natural bend to the hoses. After crimping one side, I would then screw it in and double check the other side again before crimping. For the connections to the compressor, I needed Vintage Air Beadlock O-Ring Fittings 8AN - 135 degrees (35842-VUG) and 10AN - 135 degrees (35843-VUG). This brought the hoses at the angle that I wanted. Put the access ports in this section.

I ran the hoses out of the firewall along the square tubing and are currently just temporarily held on by tie wraps.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71570&d=1501551934

It looks almost like a pretzel.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71568&d=1501551931

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71569&d=1501551933

For the drier, I make a bracket out of 2" aluminum angle that I tapped into the frame and held the drier on with steel clamps.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71567&d=1501551930

Then ran the hoses to the condenser and attached to that with a couple of 90's.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71566&d=1501551929

I mounted the condenser to the radiator using some aluminum pieces and bolts. It was positioned so the 90's would just clear the radiator.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71565&d=1501551928

The routing of the hoses came out better than I expected. Like I said the last post, hopefully it works.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

When I installed the steering shaft it wasn't really centered in the hole in the dash. I then put on the steering wheel to see what that looked like. I noticed the wheel seemed a little high and also totally blocked the gauges. I decided to lower the wheel and center it a little better, so off with the old mount. Then I notched into the frame some to lower the shaft and wheel.

This is not the best picture, but you can see the notch in the frame to lower the wheel
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71573&d=1501552451

Then I needed to create a new way to mount the pillow bearing. Ended up making some crazy mount, but it seems to work. Then you can see the Russ Thompson turn signal mount into the new piece.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71572&d=1501552449

Now the shaft was a little lower and better centered.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Like others have done, I decided to go with the two piece dash. I don't know how I could have done all the wiring, heater, etc. with a single piece. After I cut the piece, I put in in the car and saw how the dash pointed straight down. I ended up bending the dash up to be perpendicular with the steering shaft. I thought this will make it easier to see the gauges and it also provided more room behind the dash for the AC/heater.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71597&d=1501580968

I then added 3 pieces of aluminum from the frame to the bottom of the dash for support. One on each end and one in the middle
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71596&d=1501580967

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71595&d=1501580966

See middle mount under rats nest of wires
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71594&d=1501580965

Passenger side
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71593&d=1501580964

-Matt

[mtwarog]

I decided that I was going to cover the dash with 3M Di-noc Carbon Fiber Vinyl. Here are the before, during and after pictures.

Before
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71638&d=1501667032

Spread out dash on back of vinyl
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71639&d=1501667037

After cutting
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71640&d=1501667042

Started trimming out around holes
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71641&d=1501667043

[mtwarog]

Installed with some gauges
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71642&d=1501667045

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71643&d=1501667046

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71644&d=1501667047

With wheel
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71645&d=1501667048

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71646&d=1501667050

View from head height in seat. Can see most of the tach and speedo.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71647&d=1501667051

-Matt

[mtwarog]

For the pedals I bought a 94+ Mustang Pedal box from Mike at replicaparts. When it came in the mail, it was perfect and looked better than new with everything freshly powder coated. I was planning on using hydroboost for power brakes. To mount the pedal box, there are 4 bolts which go through the firewall/metal and hold it tight. To mount the hydroboost, I had to take off the plate and use some of the spacers to space it properly. On one of the spacers my Dad welded a small tab to fit in the notch of the hydroboost to keep it from spinning. This spacer is held on with the hydroboost nut, then another spacer before the firewall and bolts through and sandwich the pedal box.

The hydroboost unit came from a 2004 Mustang. When I received the unit, the low pressure return fitting was broken off, with the thread part of it still in the aluminum block which bolts onto the hydroboost. I tried to remove what was still in the aluminum, but couldn't get it out. So over to my Dad's who has some bolt extractor bits. When we tried that, it wouldn't budge and would just strip the bit that was still in. Finally, we decided we would drill it out. As soon as we put the drill in, the piece came right out. It was a left hand thread! I couldn't imagine why they would use a left hand thread. Oh well, the piece was out. Next was trying to find a replacement, but I couldn't find any.

After much searching on the internet, I came across this post on the sn95 forum:
"*****Important note, there are differences in the Hydroboost units that you buy, so try to get them from the same car. On the 96-98 the 3 lines for the fluid all go into the unit, but on the 99-04 they have a separate aluminum block that bolts to the side of the hydroboost unit for one of the high pressure lines, and the low pressure return. ALSO I WOULD RECOMMEND NOT BUYING A UNIT FROM 2004, in 99-03 they aluminum block I just mentioned is perfect and can be changed to AN Hose easily, but on all Hydroboost units from the 2004 year they have a LEFT Handed fitting and you have to be careful not to strip it out. My unit was from a 2004, so I have mine machined to use right handed thread fitting adapters."

Once I found that post I decided to buy a -6AN to 1/2-20 o-ring fitting and drilled and tapped the aluminum piece for that.

The other two fittings I found adapters for -6AN.

For the brake master cylinder I got a Cardone Select 13-2937 Brake Master Cylinder.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71738&d=1501753818

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71737&d=1501753813

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71740&d=1501753822

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71741&d=1501753825

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71739&d=1501753819

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71736&d=1501753810

-Matt

[mtwarog]

I ended up using the gas pedal that came with the kit, but only after a few modifications. I trimmed the edges of the pedal to make it a rectangle instead of a parallelogram to fit in the foot box better. I put a bolt through the pedal to keep it from pivoting on the spring where the pedal mounts to the arm. I also created a piece out of aluminum to mount it and double as a pedal stop. Lastly, I had read a few posts about this pedal breaking off from the mount at the spot weld points. I ended up taking the metal that was supposed to be used for the AC drier mount and wrapped it around the pivot point and mount. I then JB welded it and drilled holes in it to match the mount, then painted it over. Seems like that should hold now.

I didn't like the throttle cable/mount that came with the kit, so I ended up getting the Lokar TC-1000U48 48" Universal Throttle Cable. This gives plenty of length to have gentle bends in the engine and also doesn't use a pivot ball to mount to the pedal. It goes right through the hole in the pedal and makes it easier to mount the pedal straight up and down instead of at some strange angle to meet the hole in the firewall.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71783&d=1501840218

You can see how the Lokar cable attaches to the upper arm. Used the middle hole in the upper arm to desensitize the pedal a little and put the pedal at the height I wanted.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71780&d=1501840215

You can see the screw keeping the pedal from pivoting where the pedal mounts to the arm.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71781&d=1501840216

Pedal to the metal.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71782&d=1501840217

If you look close, you can see the piece I put around to strengthen up the welds.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71784&d=1501840219

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Going with power steering. Not sure if I need it or not, but thought it would be easier to put in while building, rather than try to add in later. This did complicate the build a bit going with hydroboost and power steering. Bought the rack from Forte's, then when I got the rack found out about the rack extension as well. Called up Factory Five and ordered those as well. Next was the connections, got the adapters to -6AN from Breeze. Then of course more reading on this forum and more spending money, had to have a cooler as well. Got the Derale -13310 cooler. The rack was fairly straight forward to put in, but required a bunch of tweaking to center it and the steering wheel. Once I got that all set, then I need to cut the tie rods a bit as they were too long.

Next was the power steering reservoir. For that I got the PSC 8.25" Pro Touring P.S. Remote Reservoir w/ Filter For Hydro Boost Brakes Brushed Aluminum. It just kept getting more complex and expensive. I was in too deep to turn back now, just need to figure out how to mount and connect all of this together. I made a few more pieces from aluminum and mounted the reservoir right above the pump and it just fit.

So I started drawing some diagrams and figuring out the adapters and hoses that I needed. I'd spend a little time every night refining it, "if I use a 90 here, then I'll need a straight here", "if I route this hose here, then this one will go here", etc. Ok, enough planning, time for some "doing". I ordered up the hose got 10' Russell 632640 -6AN power flex hose, 8 - 90's and 2 - straight ends. Then I started making hoses. Read a little on the internet how to make them and it wasn't too bad. Well I haven't tested them out yet, so I can't say for sure if I did them correctly. Slowly it started to come together. I got lucky that the 90's just fit on the rack and between the X of the frame and still could get a wrench on them. Looped around to the cooler which I mounted to the X frame, then to the pump.

Reservoir
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71826&d=1501933354

Reservoir also doubles as coil mount.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71820&d=1501933347

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71824&d=1501933352

cooler mounted
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71821&d=1501933348

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71819&d=1501933345

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71823&d=1501933351

90's just fit.....
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71822&d=1501933349

[mtwarog]

Once that was all in, the last thing was the connection from the reservoir to the pump. Need to head back the Breeze website for these. Got 1 foot of -10AN Braided Stainless Steel Hose and 1 -10AN 120 Degree Swivel Hose End. This worked out pretty well. It's tough to see in the picture, but if you look close you can see the big -10AN hose going down to the pump.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71825&d=1501933353

Looking up a reservoir
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71828&d=1501933357

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71827&d=1501933355

Looking down from top. Bottom of the picture is pointed towards the front of the car. I tried to show the mount, but it is really hard to get a good picture of it.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71829&d=1501933358

-Matt

[mtwarog]

My goal with the brake lines was to use as many of the lines that came with the kit without having to cut them. First thing was to come up with a plan. I started with the front brakes. I knew I wanted to mount the battery box to the X, so I didn't want to run the brake lines there, so I decided to run it along the bottom frame. Before I started bending lines, I cut a piece of thick aluminum wire to the same length as the brake line I was going to use. I then bend this piece via trial and error to come up with the bends that I wanted. Once I had this piece with all the bends, I then took the real brake lines and mimicked the aluminum wire.

Here's the front brake line. I drew some lines in red so you can see how it was routed.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71872&d=1501974834

For the flexible connections to the brakes, I ended up mounting the hard line on inside of the square tube and then ran the flexible line down, then up. It looks like it should clear the aluminum shield (yet to be put in) and still provide slack to turn the wheels.

Here's the passenger side:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71867&d=1501974829

Here's the driver's side with the wheels turning left
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71868&d=1501974830

Here's the driver's side with the wheels turning right:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71869&d=1501974831

From the brake master cylinder, you can see the lines going to the front and to the rear:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71866&d=1501974828

The rear went down along the frame:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71865&d=1501974825

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71996&d=1502272339

[mtwarog]

Then up to the T. Check out the little short piece that I used. My Dad laughs at that one, but hey, they gave it to me in the kit so why not use it... :)
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71870&d=1501974832

Here's the one to the rear passenger side
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71995&d=1502272208

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71871&d=1501974833

All in all I got pretty lucky. I think I only messed up one line and only had to flare one line (The one from under the car to the back T). All the others I was able to use from the kit. I added fluid and bled the brakes the other day and haven't seen any leaks. At least not yet....

-Matt

[mtwarog]

I thought I should try to use a shroud for the fan as I assumed that would help the cooling through the AC condenser and the radiator. For the shroud I ended up making in by using some 3/4" by 1/2" aluminum C channel on the top and bottom. To hold the fan (see previous post on fan) I used a piece of sheet aluminum. I (with the help from my Dad) cut out the circle where the fan would go. With a brake we bent the ends to go over the C channel that I tapered on the ends. I riveted the aluminum to the C channel, then bolted the fan to the aluminum. Then I took the whole thing and could bolt the C channel to the radiator at the top and bottom.

I should have taken some pictures when I built it, but unfortunately didn't.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72034&d=1502323505

Looking down from the top. You can see I started piecing together the aluminum behind it.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72033&d=1502323504

I used the radiator from the kit and put it in place according to the directions. I cut some hose and put it around the mount, then put the radiator in. I put some foam strip on the top where the top mount goes. I painted the top mount and then bolted it on. The mount bends down and holds the radiator tight.

I mounted the condenser with some aluminum about 1/2" from the radiator. I used some aluminum bars 1"x1/4" to space it away and mount it.
Not the best picture here, but you can see the condenser mounted. Also, in this picture you can see the mount on top of the radiator and the gap between the frame and the mount. When you put the bolts in, this mount will bend down and touch the frame as you tighten the bolts up.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72032&d=1502323503

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72031&d=1502323502

-Matt

[mtwarog]

For the coolant lines, I used the flexible metal ones that came with the kit. From the top of the engine, I bought from Breeze the coolant fill T kit BREEZE #70586. This gave me a 90 that went right to the cast aluminum T. From there I used the flexible metal line right to the radiator.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72046&d=1502323948

In the middle to tie down the hose to the chassis, I cut some of the unused rubber from the ends, wrapped it around the hose and just used a steel clamp to hold it down. So, the metal line is just one section, that clamp just holds it from flopping around.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72045&d=1502323946

The lower hose was a little trickier. I was trying to figure out how to route the lower hose and got lucky that I was able to fit it through the X in the front along with the power steering hoses. The flexible hose was great as it allowed me to snake it around the crazy bends.

You can see it go up and over the steering bellows
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72047&d=1502323949

Then down under the cooler.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72044&d=1502323945

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72051&d=1502323954

You can see that I mounted the hose to the frame here and also added a drain. I got a 1-3/4" x 6" Be Cool Radiators 72014 drain.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72049&d=1502323951

From there back to the pump. Note, it was really hard to get the rubber ends on to the pump and needed to break out the heat gun to give me a fighting chance.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72048&d=1502323950

[mtwarog]

Now zooming back out.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72050&d=1502323953

-Matt

[mtwarog]

For the coolant recovery tank, I bought the Canton Racing Products 80-201 2 Quart Aluminum Recovery Tank. I mounted this to the left of the battery and over the power steering cooler.

I made some metal mounts out of aluminum angle and shared some of the mounting points with the cooler and battery box.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72061&d=1502324355

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72059&d=1502324317

-Matt

[mtwarog]

The electric. At first I thought it would be hard with all the sensors, wires, etc. Then I thought it would be easy since I have the wiring harness with the complete kit and it should just be plug and play. Well, my first thought was correct. It's not that it is that hard, just very time consuming. I spent a lot of time looking over the schematics and trying to draw up my own. I really wanted to understand where all the wires went and not just plug it in and hoped it all worked.

The first thing I did was to mount the fuse box. This I did in the recommended spot under the steering shaft.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72158&d=1502494812

Then once it was mounted I tried to trace all the wires going to the fuse box and see where they got their power. I wanted to know whether it was powered from the battery feed, ignition feed or the accessory feed. The schematic in the manual didn't show that detail. Below is a picture that I drew up with the location of the fuses and the wiring to each fuse.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72161&d=1502494814

Once I had that information, I could start drawing up the full schematic of how I would connect everything to the fuse box. I redrew the fuse box and added in some additional labels.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72159&d=1502494813

Then I put together this sheet with how I would wire in the power to the fuse box. I also show how I wired up the battery, alternator, key switch going to a 12V distribution point.
At the bottom of the page I have the head light switch.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72160&d=1502494813

That's about it for the basic wiring diagrams. I'll add in more later showing the turn signal, hazard lights, backup lights, cameras and fog lights.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Before I installed the engine, I wanted to put some heat shielding along the foot boxes and the firewall. I bought some Zero Clearance Aluminum/Fiberglass/PSA Insulation from Breeze Automotive. First I made some templates with brown packing paper, then when I was happy with that, I started cutting up some pieces. I mainly uses scissors to cut it, but it wasn't easy to cut. I then peeled off the backing and stuck the pieces on. In some cases also added rivets with washers on them to make sure the pieces stayed on.

Here you can see where I added it. I also ran it down the inside of the transmission tunnel a bit.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72163&d=1502495060

You can also see some of the wiring that I talked about in the last post between the passenger motor mount and foot box. I ran a + and - from the battery to the starter, then a + and - to the fuse box.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72162&d=1502495058

I still plan to put a piece on the top of the passenger foot box and the driver side once I get those panels installed.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Today's the day (9/13/2015) to attempt the first start, but let's jump back to last week for a moment. Last week we added in the power steering fluid. We disconnected the fuel pump and coil wire and I attempted to turn the engine over to spin the power steering pump. I put the key in, turned the key and the gauges came on, then I turned the key some more and the engine turned over. A lot had to go right for that to happen. After that, my Dad and I took a trip to the gas station to pickup a 5 gallon container of gas. We were going to add the coolant in and then start it up. To make a long story short, we had some coolant leaks, so I fixed them during the week.

So back to today. My parent's came over and my wife and kids were all ready. We pushed the car outside and gave it a quick look over.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72166&d=1502495349

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72168&d=1502495496

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72167&d=1502495495

I jumped in, turned the key to on, listened to the fuel pump fire up and make funny sounds while the air purged from the lines. Then turned it to crank and fired it up.

Here are the videos for proof:
First start:

https://youtu.be/watch?v=cCPiOF0ZMkA

P U - It stinks
https://youtu.be/Mlwt8Vd_00U

Burn Rubber:
https://youtu.be/ooY9nF15Vjg

Jesse's turn:
https://youtu.be/NI_iKy5n7S0

One last spin:
https://youtu.be/xmfUF1hsVuw

-Matt

[mtwarog]

When I first received the kit I took out the side pipes and figured I'd better paint them before they got rusty. I didn't know how long it would be before I'd have a chance to use them. I brought them to my Dad's house and bead blasted them clean. I then used some high heat primer on them. Then followed that up with a couple of coats of Rust-Oleum High Heat Ultra "Semi-Gloss" black paint. I don't know how well it will last, but figured I could easily touch it up later if I had to. Also wanted to go with black to match the black wheels.

I wanted to get the pipes on for the first start to see how loud it will be with these. I thought it might be tight fitting them on. I went to put the driver's side on and try to slide them on the header. Nope, wouldn't go. I jammed wood shims in the headers and a clamp on the muffler to bring the two pipes closer so they would fit. Nope. Ok, let me try one of the two pipes onto one of the header pipes. Nope, not even close. Time to start grinding, sanding, filing, dremeling, etc. At this point I didn't care about scratching anything, I just wanted to be able to slide the pipes on. Finally after a few hours of taking a little bit off at a time of both the outside of the header and the inside of the mufflers, I was able to slide the driver's side on. Put on the clamps and called it a night. The passenger side would wait until the next night.

Time for the passenger side. Looking at the two pipes of the muffler for the passenger side, I could see that the metal at the end was much thinner on one of the two pipes. That side would easily slide over the header. The other one was the same thickness as both of the driver side pipes. This needed grinding to fit on, but at least I was prepared for it this time. I ground away and was able to get this side on much easier. Put the clamps on and went to bed.

Back to the drivers side, the header was slightly touching the corner of the driver's foot box. To gain more clearance, I cut the footbox and bent it in. I still need to make the outside piece fit, and will get to this soon.

Here you can see the cut in the footbox that I needed to make (as well as the grass still on the tires from my first go kart) to provide clearance for the header. Since my foot could never get in that corner, it shouldn't really impact the room in the footbox.:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72175&d=1502496967

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72176&d=1502496968

Here are a couple of pics of the passenger side of the car showing the black pipes and how the car sits now:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72173&d=1502496965

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72174&d=1502496966

I didn't install the hangers yet and will wait to do this after the body is on.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Back to the electric and the hazard switch and turn signals. For the hazard switch, I used the ON-ON double pole switch from the kit. For the turn signal, I was using the Russ Thompson turn signal. It took a bunch of research to figure out how I wanted to connect it up. Eventually I settled upon the following schematic:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72177&d=1502497211

Normally, the hazard switch will be in the down position (connecting left to middle in the above picture), which connects the turn signal path. The middle connection of the hazard switch goes to the dash LED and front/rear lights for each side. Then the turn signal will function.

With the hazard switch in the up position (connecting right to middle in the above picture), the turn signal will be bypassed and since the hazard flasher connects to both the left and the right side of the switch, both sides will flash.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Here are a few more pictures of the car outside after the first start:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72185&d=1502497446

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72184&d=1502497444

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72183&d=1502497443

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72181&d=1502497441

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72180&d=1502497439

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72179&d=1502497438

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72178&d=1502497437

-Matt

[mtwarog]

I wanted to have a backup camera on the car since I figured it would probably be difficult to see out the back. Then I decided, why not a front one as well? I spent a bunch of time trying to research different ones as well as how to display the pictures.

I decided that I wanted to use the rear view mirror to display the cameras. I ended up getting the CrimeStopper SecurView SV-9156.CT. This has a 4.3" LCD Screen, Compass and Thermometer and has 2 inputs.

For the cameras I got 2 PyleView PLCM38FRV cameras which can be used as a forward or a reverse camera (ie. flip image). There are 3 wires on the camera that can be tied together to reverse the image and show distance lines. For now I have the distance lines off and the rear camera reversed.

Now for the fun part, hooking them up. Again back to the pencil and paper to map out the connections. I wanted the backup camera to turn on when in reverse, so I needed to use the reverse switch on the TKO500. To connect to that I bought the Ron Francis Wiring Transmission Backup Light Connector Pigtails PG-055. I also added in a manual override switch to turn on the backup camera when I wanted, while not in reverse. So I can see who's tailgating me. :) I didn't want to turn on the backup lights when using this manual override switch, so I can use it while driving and not have the backup lights turn on. This required me to connect it via the schematic below.
The front camera will be powered all the time and the display can be turned on/off by a button on the mirror. So when the ACC is on, the front will display. If in reverse or I override it, the back will display.
There's a green wire on the mirror that when at +12V will display the backup camera, so this had to be wired in.

For the backup lights, I bought 2 Marker Lights - L488-Clear from Finish Line Accessories which match the Factory Five tail lights.

Here's the schematic:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72191&d=1502497943

Backup camera (not the final mount):
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72190&d=1502497943

Front camera (not the final mount):
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72189&d=1502497941

TKO pigtail. Hard to see.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72186&d=1502497936

Override switch under the dash. The switch on the left is the backup camera override. Next to that is the radiator fan override switch, the dash dimmer, clock set button and AC temp knob.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72187&d=1502497938

Here's a picture of the mirror showing the front camera. Also has the direction and the temperature.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72188&d=1502497940

Lastly, I had to make a video to show it in action. Enjoy. :)

https://youtu.be/watch?v=8XRq61epCvc

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Time for another hand drawn schematic. I had bought the Russ Thompson turn signal system and at the end of the turn signal is a small button. Like many others I wanted to use this for the high beam switch. Also this button can be used as a "flash to pass" button. With that the headlight switch doesn't need to be on to flash them.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72194&d=1502498436

Back to the documents and the forum to figure out how to wire this thing up. Also shown is that I wired up the fog lights to the low beam output signal. The thought is that when you put on the high beams, the fog lights will shut off. For the Relay Switch I used a Standard LR-35. Here's what I ended up with:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72195&d=1502498437

Here you can see the headlight switch with the fog light switch under it.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72192&d=1502498434

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72193&d=1502498435

-Matt

[Rodster]

Thanks Matt!

[GoDadGo]

So Totally Cool!

Congratulations On This HUGE Milestone!

[mtwarog]

For the rear lights, I used the 4 Red lights that came with the kit and I bought 2 White lights of the same style (L488-Clear from Finish Line Accessories) to use as the backup lights. For the red lights, they have a high and low brightness. I plan on using all 4 low brightness as the tail/running lights. The upper 2 high brightness will be my brake lights and the lower 2 low brightness will be my turn signal lights. I also plan on wiring in a 3rd brake light that I'm thinking will go in the rear spoiler, but haven't connected that up yet.

I took apart the lights and I tested with a 12V battery and then I ohm'd out the connections and determined the low brightness were about 2.3ohms and the high brightness were around 0.7ohms. I then stuck the wire in the connectors on the lights and closed it up a bit with pliers, then soldered the wires together.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73005&d=1504140757

After soldering, I slide the rubber cover back on the lights and crimped on some weatherpack connectors. I had bought this tool (CRIMPING TOOL DELPHI SERIES WEATHERPACK 12014254 Item #: 440) a while back and there is no way I'd be able to make the connections without it.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73009&d=1504140761

In order to make the connection between the lights and the connector on the harness, I needed to make up a harness. Also used weatherpack connectors for these since I still had a bunch left.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73006&d=1504140758

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73008&d=1504140760

Then I connected them all up and tested them out.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73007&d=1504140759

Fortunately it all seemed to work.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

My Dad helped me take the body down out of my garage where it has been hanging for almost 2 years and bring it into the basement. From reading others posts we knew we'd have to trim around the gas tank to get it to fit. After unscrewing it from the body buck we gave it a test fit. It looked like the body would fit fine around the sides of the tank, but no way was it going to fit at the back of the tank. I decided to take 2" off the back. Nope, not enough, still hitting the tank. Then tried taking some more off around the corners of the tank where it was really hitting. Nope, not enough. Then I decided to follow the contour of the back and leave about a 1 5/8" lip on the bottom of the body.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73018&d=1504141282

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73017&d=1504141281

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73016&d=1504141279

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73015&d=1504141278

[mtwarog]

Got it on and it doesn't hit. Showing the tank sticking out the bottom
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73010&d=1504141273

Driver's side
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73013&d=1504141276

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73012&d=1504141275

Passenger side
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73011&d=1504141274

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73019&d=1504141298

Here's a shot from the side with the body on:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73014&d=1504141277

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Before the body went on, I added some weather strip to the trunk area like they mention in the manual. I wasn't 100% sure where to add it, but just put in on the sides of the trunk. Not sure if I need it on the back part.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73025&d=1504142090

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73024&d=1504142089

Then added the bulb seal to the top of the firewall piece. Since I added the insulation, I had to spread out the ends to slip it over that and the aluminum. It seems to hold on there pretty well.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73023&d=1504142087

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73022&d=1504142085

With the body back on, it seems to fit over around the back.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73021&d=1504142084

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73020&d=1504142083

[mtwarog]

Now for the how the rest of the body lines up. This falls into the things you don't realize until the body is on category. The height of the exhaust headers and how they line up with the body cutouts.

The good news: The drivers side lines up perfectly
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73029&d=1504142094

The bad news: The passenger side isn't even close
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73028&d=1504142093

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73027&d=1504142092

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73026&d=1504142091

I never realized before how different they were. The passenger side is 2" lower than the driver's side. If I were to cut the fiberglass, I think I'd have to cut all the way through it. Looks like there is some header cutting and welding in my future......

-Matt

[mtwarog]

I took a few more measurements.
First to check how level the engine is. My floor and engine may not be completely level, but it is pretty close:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73030&d=1504142749

Header at engine - passenger side ~call it 20 1/2"
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73031&d=1504142750

Header at engine - driver side ~hard to tell, but say 20 1/4". So the driver's side may even be a little lower than the passenger side at the engine.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73032&d=1504142751

Now looking at the other end - driver side ~ bottom lower around 9", top upper around 13"
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73033&d=1504142752

Now at the passenger side ~ bottom lower around 7", top upper around 10 3/4".
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73034&d=1504142753

The passenger side is obviously lower.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73035&d=1504142755

I don't know, maybe when the header was welded, the last piece was twisted and angled down.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

I decided to cut the passenger side header.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73045&d=1504143246

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73036&d=1504143216

I then fit the side pipe to where I wanted it to go and riveted the hanger mount into the 2" frame and hung the pipes in position. I held up the front of the pipe with a jack to fine tune the exact position up and down and in and out.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73044&d=1504143227

The next step was to figure out how to connect the header to the pipes. The more I thought about it, the less I wanted to try to slip on the header and use the clamps that came with the kit. After consulting with my Dad and looking around I decided to buy 4 sets of Patriot Collector Flange Kits H7257. These had a 2" hole and two bolt holes on each piece. This would hopefully allow easier removal of the pipes.

So I cut and ground (and ground and ground) down the pieces of the header that I cut off and fit them to match the header and pipe angle
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73037&d=1504143217

Once I was done grinding this piece to fit we tacked it in place. Then tacked on a flange to the piece of pipe that slid into the exhaust pipes. Then we bolted the two flanges together and tacked up the lower passenger side pipe.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73038&d=1504143219

[mtwarog]

Then with the lower pipe done it was onto the upper pipe. More grinding and fitting, but we were actually making progress. The next thing I knew both passenger side pipes were done
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73041&d=1504143223

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73040&d=1504143222

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73042&d=1504143225

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73043&d=1504143226

Here's an action shot of my Dad welding showing the pipes on the car.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73039&d=1504143220

With the passenger side in place, it was quitting time.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Now on to the driver's side. I was thinking that since the header was coming out in the correct spot for the body, that I was just going to trim the header back a bit and weld on the flanges. As I cut the header back, I realized that the top tube wasn't going to line up where the end of the pipes was going to be. So I cut the top header where 2 goes into 1.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73317&d=1504691345

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73311&d=1504691328

I then slide in the bottom pipe into the bottom header and realized the pipes were too high in the front and were sticking out too far from the body in the front.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73310&d=1504691326

Riveted in the driver's side hanger and hung the pipe.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73309&d=1504691325

I trimmed 2" off the muffler to match the passenger side. Then I lined up the muffler to where I wanted it to go. You can now see the bottom header wasn't going to be lined up either.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73312&d=1504691329

[mtwarog]

So off with the bottom one as well. Ground that one to line up with the bottom pipe of the muffler and tacked that one in place and started fitting the upper pipe.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73313&d=1504691330

Got that pretty well lined up.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73314&d=1504691331

Tacked that one up too.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73315&d=1504691332

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73316&d=1504691333

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73318&d=1504691589

Since the driver side header is very difficult to take off, my Dad graciously agreed to weld the rest of the driver side header while on the car. We took off the passenger side header and the two pipes and he brought them back to his house to finish the welding. It took a while, but I'm happy with how they came out. Hopefully this will make taking the pipes on an off a bit easier than using the clamps.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

A few weeks back, I made an attempt to roughly align my car. I set the ride height. I drew some lines on the floor parallel to the frame, then some more near the wheels. I spent many hours over a few nights to get it close. With the IRS, it's a pain to make the adjustments.
I decided that before I go further with the trunk aluminum panels and the body, that I'd take it in and get it aligned. I've been trying to read up of various alignment threads and settings. Trying to figure out the toe in, caster and camber settings to use. Since I was running power steering, I settled on 7degrees caster. For both the front and rear, I would use 1/16th in toe and -0.5degrees camber. I saw some posts regarding the number of thread engagement for the front, so before I brought it in, I took a few pictures to see.

The threaded sleeve is 4"
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73370&d=1504777478

The rods have 2.5" of thread
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73371&d=1504777479

With those lengths, it doesn't appear as if I'll have an issue with too little thread engagement.

My Dad and I loaded it up on the trailer and were ready to go.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73369&d=1504777477

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73368&d=1504777475

We got to the shop and I drove off the trailer and into the bay and up on the lift. The guy put the sensors on all the wheels and he had at it. We started with the back and I had done a pretty good job. He didn't touch the left rear wheel and just needed to tweak the right rear. At first he did one complete turn of the front adjustment. It was too much, so he went back 1/2 turn. 1/2 turn results in 3/32" toe in change. The back was set.
Then on to the front. When trying to get the caster at 7degrees, we quickly found out that with 4" sleeves, the most we could get on the passenger side was ~4degrees. To get more, I'd have to get a smaller sleeve on the rear or cut the ones I have. I figured 4 was good enough for me for now. If I want to change it later I could. He then matched the driver's side and adjusted the toe. Seemed like it was good enough for now. I'll probably take it back in after a year on the road. Drove it out and back on the trailer and back home.

Results. Here's how we ended up.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73371&d=1504777479

Passenger side final. You can see rear part is as small as it can be.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73367&d=1504777474

Driver side final
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73366&d=1504777472

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Now that the rear end is aligned, I'm trying to finish up the trunk aluminum. I need to cut two big holes in the floor for the boxes I installed and one for the fuel pump. Also planning on cutting a hole on each side of the side panels to get access to the tail lights.

But before all that, I think I figured out a way to fairly easily remove and install the big aluminum panel for the trunk floor.

Removal
Step 1:
Bow the floor and pull back on the driver's side until round frame tube goes into the cutout for the shock tower (not on IRS)
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73373&d=1504777881

Step 2:
Repeat this for the passenger's side.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73374&d=1504777883

Step 3:
Go back to the driver's side and pull back until the floor completely clears the round frame tube
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73375&d=1504777884

Step 4:
It pops right out
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73376&d=1504777886

Installation
Step 1:
Bend the floor and put the passenger side in first, making sure you are tucked under the "X" behind the passenger seat. Put the round frame tube in the passenger side shock mount hole in the floor. Then bend and put the driver's side in.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73377&d=1504777888

Step 2:
Bend up the passenger side and pull forward allowing the floor cutout for the round frame rail to fall into place.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73378&d=1504777890

Step 3:
Go back to the driver's side, bend up and pull forward.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73379&d=1504777891

-Matt

[mtwarog]

I started cutting all the holes in the trunk floor for the storage compartments and the sides for access panels for the rear lights.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73484&d=1505045017

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73485&d=1505045018

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73486&d=1505045019

[mtwarog]

I cut up and used the big piece that I cut from the floor and made the panel covers. I added riv-nuts to the side pieces.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73487&d=1505045020

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73488&d=1505045021

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73489&d=1505045022

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73490&d=1505045023

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73491&d=1505045024

Since the aluminum is pretty thin, I didn't want the riv-nuts spinning in the future, so I mixed up some JB Weld and put that around the riv-nuts.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73492&d=1505045025

Now I feel like that will hold. Hopefully.....
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73493&d=1505045026

-Matt

[mtwarog]

With the sides done, next up was the floor. After making the initial rough cut so I would have aluminum for the access panels, it was time to match it to the boxes in the floor.

Rough cut
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73494&d=1505045456

After a few cuts it was starting to take shape.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73495&d=1505045457

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73496&d=1505045458

Next up was the hole for the fuel pump access. The floor is becoming much lighter and flexible.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73497&d=1505045459

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73498&d=1505045460

Then I cut the covers for the storage boxes and for the fuel pump out of a sheet of aluminum that I used to make the storage boxes. It is a little thicker than the floor and side aluminum.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73499&d=1505045461

I bought some aluminum piano hinge (Aluminum 5052-H32 Continuous Hinge without holes, Unfinished, 0.04" Leaf Thickness, 1-1/2" Open Width, 5/64" Pin Diameter, 1/2" Knuckle Length, 6' Long) that I'll use for the hinges. You can see them in the above picture.

I haven't done the final install yet as I wanted to fit the gas filler pipe and rear lights with the body on before I rivet in the trunk aluminum.

-Matt

[Jacob McCrea]

Looks great. Re-welding the headers seems to be a rite of passage for Gen 1 and 2 coupe builders, from what I can tell. Carry on!

[mtwarog]

Before I finish up the aluminum in the trunk, I wanted to work out how the gas cap/fuel filler was going to fit. Looking at the crazy shape of the filler pipe and where it ended up, no way was the straight section of rubber fuel hose was going to fit.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73552&d=1505209372

After playing around with it for a while, it looks like a 45 degree piece would fit.
I bought a Gates 24712 piece and started having at it. Trim a little here, little there and see if it would work. See below for proof.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73561&d=1505209381

As you can see in the above picture I also trimmed to top of the metal pipe. I cut about 1" off, but probably didn't need to cut that much. I did cut off the bead, which does make it much easier to install on the pipe. I think with a couple clamps it should hold as I ended up with about 2" overlap.

Here's the pipe sticking up with the top cut off.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73559&d=1505209379

Here's all that is left of the Gates hose after my trimming.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73560&d=1505209380

All together.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73556&d=1505209376

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73557&d=1505209377

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73558&d=1505209378

[mtwarog]

Looking in from outside you can see the metal pipe. I'm wondering if the gas pump nozzle will reach all the way in there....
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73553&d=1505209373

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73554&d=1505209374

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73555&d=1505209375

It took a while and it looks so simple when it's done. Who knows how many hours I spent thinking about and trimming this little piece, but I'm pretty happy with the end result.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

I wanted to have a radio and speakers in the car. Will I be able to hear them while driving? Who knows?
Anyways, I bought some 6"x9" speakers for the rear and 5-1/4" for the front, which I'm planning on putting in the doors.
For the rear speakers, I settled upon putting them in the side aluminum.

Cut the holes and slide on the clips.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73648&d=1505382223

With the speaker mounted
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73649&d=1505382224

Looking from behind
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73650&d=1505382225

Since the back will be in the wheel well, I starting mocking up how I would enclose them.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73651&d=1505382226

Just enough room. Hopefully.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73652&d=1505382227

Tracing out sides on scrap aluminum
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73653&d=1505382228

Sides bend up
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73654&d=1505382229

[mtwarog]

Making a porcupine
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73655&d=1505382230

It seems to fit
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73656&d=1505382231

Is it going to fit? Not with all the quills
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73658&d=1505382547

Here's where it's going to go.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73657&d=1505382546

Both done and seam sealed
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73659&d=1505382548

Inside
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73660&d=1505382549

And since I can't stop making access panels I'll probably never use, I made one more in the back. This should give me access to the license plate light, backup camera and third brake light.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73661&d=1505382550

Before I finish putting in all the trunk panels, I want to get the rear lights, camera working, so no "final" pictures yet.

-Matt

[WIS89]

Matt-

She's coming along, or should I say she has come along...

Nice updates on your past progress.

Regards,

Steve

[mtwarog]

Thanks Steve,

Yeah, like almost everything with the building of the car, it's taking me longer than expected to post all of this. I'm about 1/3 done updating these posts.
It is fun going back and re-reading all of this and remembering what it used to look like.

Thanks.
-Matt

[mtwarog]

The windshield wipers. I bought the windshield wiper kit from Factory Five and was determined to make them work. The first step was to figure out where to mount the wiper motor, then figure out how to mount it. A quick test fit looks like there was enough room to the right of the heater right on the firewall.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73690&d=1505469174

Next up was how to mount it. Decided to use a piece of aluminum angle with a couple steel clamps. I drilled and dremeled out a few slots for the clamps.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73687&d=1505469171

Shown holding the motor.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73688&d=1505469172

Ground down the aluminum a bit some the clamps will sit flush when the bracket gets mounted to the firewall.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73689&d=1505469173

Riveted the mount to the firewall.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73694&d=1505469179

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73693&d=1505469178

[mtwarog]

With the motor mounted.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73691&d=1505469175

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73692&d=1505469176

With the motor in position and mounted, it was time to mount the wiper and wiper boxes.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

With the motor mounted, it was on to the wiper boxes. It seems like the kit was setup for a mount/windshield at a different angle with the chrome piece and rubber sleeves cut at an angle. The mounts on the coupe body are already perpendicular to the windshield, so I need the boxes to mount straight in.

After drilling the holes in the body, I cut up a piece of PVC pipe to 1-3/8", then ground down the sides a bit to fit flush against the body. I slid these over the wiper boxes. I also took some rubber washers and cut the inside to fit over the threads. I decided not to use the chrome piece and just have the nut and rubber washer. This way, the wipers wouldn't stick up as much.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73722&d=1505560815

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73723&d=1505560816

I only wanted it sticking up enough so with the rubber washer, the nut would be fully threaded.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73724&d=1505560817

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73725&d=1505560818

[mtwarog]

I wasn't sure how tight the fit on the wipers sliding on the top of the box would be, so I drilled and tapped a set screw in the end.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73719&d=1505560811

Here's with the wiper mounted.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73721&d=1505560814

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73720&d=1505560813

Now for the really fun part (not really). Trying to get the 5/16" brake lines to mount on the wiper boxes. Getting the correct length and getting them lined up was a challenge. This took a bunch of time to cut and flare the tubes and then get the inner cable to not bind, but not be too loose. It took a mixture of a hammer, vise and dremel tool, but finally got it working ok.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73726&d=1505560819

Added some tie wraps for the wipers to test out the box.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73727&d=1505560820

After all of that I had to take a video of them in action
https://youtu.be/_5fyfS_q0h0

When I'm ready to mount the body for the last time, I'll grease up the cable and mount it back in the car.

Lastly, here's my rendition of the wiper schematic.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73729&d=1505560921

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Here are some pictures of how the car looked two years after taking the trip down to Factory Five to pickup the kit.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73730&d=1505561348

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73731&d=1505561349

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73732&d=1505561351

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73733&d=1505561352

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73734&d=1505561353

And here's a couple of what is left to do
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73735&d=1505561354

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73736&d=1505561355

-Matt

[mtwarog]

After reading up on other people's posts about mounting the hood, I decided I was ready to give it a shot for myself. After a quick test fit holding the front up on jacks and trying to gauge where the hinge brackets would go, it did look like I'd have to elongate the holes to get the hood to line up with the body pontoons. Rather than take a little off at a time, I just decided to do it in one big chunk. So I drilled a hole 3/4" from the edge of the current slot. Then took a dremel to cut between the slot and the new hole.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73741&d=1505604948

After dremeling and filing, then a quick paint touch up, the slot was now 2 1/2" long, which should be more than enough. It looked like there was still enough meat left on the bracket. This picture reminds me that I need to glue my ruler back together after accidentally stepping on it the other day.....
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73742&d=1505604949

Put the washers and spacers in and put the rod ends fully threaded up.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73743&d=1505604950

With the jam nuts on and fully threaded, I put the hood back on the car. After a few days tweaking/measuring making sure it was fairly well centered, overhang on the wheels even, lining up with the pontoons, checking the gap to the pontoons, the hood looked pretty close the correct height with the jam nut on and only a couple threads showing. I still wanted to give myself a little more room for adjustment up and down if necessary, since the hood still needed to be trimmed, so I'm not exactly sure how it will sit (ie. gap between hood and pontoon) once this was done. So I cut the jam nut in two which gave me a little more room. Time will tell if I needed to do this or not. Then gave them a quick shot of paint as well.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73744&d=1505604952

I put the hood back on the jacks and positioned where I wanted one last time. Next was to drill the holes through the fog mounts and mount the fog light bracket and also an additional bolt on the top of it with a big washer.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73749&d=1505604957

Got both on
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73750&d=1505604958

[mtwarog]

Bent up the tabs on the inside and drilled holes and put the bolts in. Now this was mounted pretty solid.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73747&d=1505604955

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73748&d=1505604956

I then opened the hood for the first time and everything stayed together.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73745&d=1505604953

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73746&d=1505604954

-Matt

[mtwarog]

I've started working on getting the doors on the car. First thing was to press in the bushings and see how it all fits together.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73751&d=1505605309

Ok, it looks like it'll all fit together, so now let's see how it mounts to the car. The cutouts from the factory were obviously too small, but did allow me to see where I would need to enlarge them.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73754&d=1505605313

Got the passenger side done. Well at least done enough to fit the door frames on.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73753&d=1505605312

I went to mount the doors to the frame and noticed one of the square head bolts just kept spinning. The welded on stop was too far away. You can see the edge doesn't catch.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73752&d=1505605310

I cut a strip of metal and JB Welded it to the welded on tab. Now the bolt hits this and I'll be able to tighten it from the other side.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73755&d=1505605314

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Now that the door frames were assembled, next up was to see how they'd fit into the doors. Since I was planning on having speakers in the door, I test fit where these were going to go. The 5-1/4" round speakers just fit inside the recessed area in the door.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73756&d=1505605473

Got the holes cut. What I found to work really well to make the cuts was a dremel tool with a 1-1/2" EZ lock round cutter. It would cut really straight and I could also use this to cut the round holes. I'd use the shop vac at the same time and there was almost no dust.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73757&d=1505605475

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73758&d=1505605476

[mtwarog]

Next was to cut the hole in the side to be able to insert the frame into the door. With the hole about 2-5/8" x 9-1/2", I was able to shimmy the frame into the door.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73761&d=1505605479

For the driver's side, I could see where others have said the frame hits the fiberglass. In this picture it is below the green tape.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73759&d=1505605477

The paint rubbed off to the right of the green tape and that is where I trimmed the metal on the door.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73760&d=1505605478

I cut off a little triangle and the door seemed to fit flat. I may have to trim more later, but won't know until I get the doors mounted and see where everything will line up.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73762&d=1505605481

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73763&d=1505605483

Both doors done.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73764&d=1505605484

-Matt

[mtwarog]

I purchased the Spal Shaved 40 Door kit a while back and now that I'm working on the doors, it was time to get them installed. They come with 40lb solenoids to pull the door latches open via remote control. That way I won't have to reach inside the window to open the door.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73765&d=1505605812

First thing was to find a spot for these and then figure out how to mount them. It looks like there was enough room right under the latch and I could mount the solenoid to pull straight down. There was already a mount welded to the body of the solenoid and it looked like it may work. I created a couple of mounts out of aluminum angle and riveted it to the door frame.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73767&d=1505605814

Here's with one side of the mount. I set the aluminum mounts in 1/4" on the 1" frame, so with the thickness of the solenoid mount and the head of the bolt it would be flush with the door frame when assembled.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73766&d=1505605813

With the second side on this was very sturdy.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73768&d=1505605815

Then the same for the other door.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73769&d=1505605816

[mtwarog]

The last thing was to extend the solenoid, wrap the cable around and crimp it tight.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73770&d=1505605817

Once that was done, I mounted the inside door handle to the top position of the latch. Instead of the clevis, I used a couple of throttle cable mounts which raised up the height of the cable to be inline with the bracket that holds the cable. Plus, since the solenoids were going to be pulling, I didn't want the ball on the end of the cable to pop out of the clevis. I'm hoping this will hold better and not fall off.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73772&d=1505605819

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73771&d=1505605818

Both doors done.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73773&d=1505605820

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73774&d=1505605821

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Time to catch up on some miscellaneous progress on the car. With the body still on, I wanted to see how the trunk glass would fit.

Got the brackets together.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73775&d=1505606105

Put them on the car
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73776&d=1505606106

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73777&d=1505606108

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73778&d=1505606108

With the glass on, it seems like it fits pretty well. Final adjustment and sealing will be done later.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73779&d=1505606109

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73780&d=1505606111

Since I need to take the body off again, I didn't put the hatch struts on yet. I was pretty happy with how it fit and took the glass back off to store for a while.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Also with the body on, I starting fitting the doors. I took out my belt sander and started grinding away. This was very dusty and took some patience. I didn't want to grind out too much, so I just took a little bit at a time until the door fit in tight.

Eventually I got the driver's side door to fit pretty well.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73781&d=1505606439

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73782&d=1505606441

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73783&d=1505606442

Once the driver's side was done, I repeated the same on the passenger side and that went much quicker. Looks like I didn't take any pictures of it though.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Next up with the body on, I wanted to drill the holes for the tail lights. I decided on the default positions for the brake and turn lights. I also bought a set of matching clear lights from ********** (Marker Light - L488) to be used as the reverse lights.
I decided I was going to put these below the other two like this:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73788&d=1505606625

Holes drilled.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73789&d=1505606626

The upper holes just lined up with the plates in the back.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73790&d=1505606627

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73791&d=1505606628

Since there was a small gap between the plate and the fiberglass, I plan on adding some spacers here.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73792&d=1505606629

[mtwarog]

The bottom hole was just under the plate in the back and required a little trimming of the metal plate and 3/4" square tubing to fit.
Passenger side:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73784&d=1505606620

Driver side:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73785&d=1505606622

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73786&d=1505606623

Lastly, since every time I took the body off, it would get hung up on the gas tank flange, I decided it was time to chop some of that off. I'm not sure why it stuck out there and what the hole was for. Hopefully it isn't needed....
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73787&d=1505606624

-Matt

[mtwarog]

After drilling the tail light holes, I took the body off again. Now, it was time to finish up the trunk aluminum.

First was to see of the bump outs I made for the speaker actually fit inside the frame. Very close, but good.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73795&d=1505606960

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73796&d=1505606961

Ran the speaker wires as well.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73798&d=1505606963

[mtwarog]

Now to finish up the riveting and the tops for the storage compartments.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73797&d=1505606962

Used a piano hinge for both.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73799&d=1505606964

Little one open:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73800&d=1505606965

Big one open:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73801&d=1505606967

Just barely clears the side as I open it. Better to be lucky than good...
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73802&d=1505606968

Cleaned up a bit.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73793&d=1505606957

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73794&d=1505606959

I'm happy how it came out. The plan is that this will all be covered up with a rug that I'll roll up when I need access to these boxes. We'll see how it comes out.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

With the body off, it was time to finish up the driver's side foot box. I had left this open for a long time to make sure I was able to get all the wires in and the pedals were working. I had to cut the aluminum a bit and bend it in so the headers and side pipes wouldn't hit the corner of the box.

I cut the side piece and bent it up.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73894&d=1505900568

Test fit it in.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73900&d=1505900574

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73899&d=1505900573

Made a new piece to cover up this hole in the front as the one supplied with the kit was a little too small.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73898&d=1505900572

Next was to make up some pieces above and below the cuts. First was to mock it up with cardboard.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73895&d=1505900569

Then cut it and bend it up.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73897&d=1505900571

Fits well.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73896&d=1505900570

[mtwarog]

On the inside I added some insulation. I used Quadmat 4 Layer Dampening System plus Thermal Insulation/Cushioning that I purchased from Breeze Automotive.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73901&d=1505900575

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73902&d=1505900577

Now added some aluminum tape on the outside to finish it off.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73903&d=1505900578

-Matt

[mtwarog]

After placing the rear spoiler on the back and seeing how it fit, I decided that I wanted to fiberglass it onto the car. The curve of the spoiler didn't really match the curve of the body that well. I would have to force it down quite a bit to sit flush. Since the fiberglass on the spoiler was pretty thin, I figured trying to screw or rivet it on would crack it.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73905&d=1505900993

I decided that I was going to cut out a section in the back and set the spoiler down into it. I first started by trimming the edge of the spoiler, but leaving about 1/2" of the lip. Put a piece of tape on it and took my dremel tool and cut it off.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73904&d=1505900992

Then after cutting, I centered the spoiler with the edges of the rear window. (Here was my first mistake, but didn't realize it yet, more on this in a bit....). And then traced on the back where I would cut out. I drilled holes on the corners.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73906&d=1505900994

Then cut it out.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73907&d=1505900995

Next was to fit it in and support it. I used some scrap pieces of aluminum and washers to set the depth.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73908&d=1505900996

Then put the spoiler in and started taking some measurements.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73909&d=1505900997

So I continued to make adjustments keeping the height of the top of spoiler constant across the back. In order to make this happen, I had to lower the driver's side much more than the passenger side. It still didn't hit me yet why I needed to do this, so I just kept going lower and lower.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73910&d=1505900998

[mtwarog]

So then when finally the top of the spoiler was the same height as the back, I fiberglassed in part of it. This was my first time fiberglassing, but it seemed to be going ok. My Dad was helping me put down the glass and I would add the goop.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73911&d=1505900999

Once that section was done, it was quitting time. A little while later, I went back downstairs to check on it and it finally hit me. Why did we have to lower one side so much? I measured the spoiler from the top to the lip and it was pretty consistent the whole way. If the spoiler is the same height the whole way, why does it need to be set in on one side to be level? Then I stepped back again and took a look.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73912&d=1505901000

Wait a minute, the spoiler isn't centered left and right on the car. Looking at the holes for the tail lights you can see it is shifted towards the passenger side. And now that the driver's side is set in more, the angle where it comes out of the body won't be the same on both sides. Since I'm planning on having stripes, I think it would become more obvious how not centered it is once those were painted on.

What I realized is that the corners for the rear hatch glass weren't centered in the car, therefore when I centered the spoiler to the rear hatch everything was shifted to the passenger side.

After sleeping on it, I didn't like it and I decided to cut out what I did and center it left/right with the tail lights.

So, I took out the dremel and cut out what I did the previous day. I moved the spoiler over to the driver's side and low and behold, it is now centered with the back and the correct height across the top and down about the same depth on both sides.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73913&d=1505901001

Now that it was in a position that I liked, it was time to fiberglass it back in. More on how that went tomorrow.....
-Matt

[mtwarog]

Now that the spoiler was in a place that I liked, it was time to glass it in (again).

You can see where I cut out the previously glassed in section.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73944&d=1505987334

You can see how far I moved it over
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73945&d=1505987342

Duct taped the under side
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73943&d=1505987302

Glassed in the sections between the mounts.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73946&d=1505987370

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73947&d=1505987381

After that dried, then next day I took off the mounts and the spoiler didn't move at all. I was all prepped and ready to go to fill in the rest.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73948&d=1505987393

[mtwarog]

When the top was dried, flipped the body over and prepped the bottom to get glassed in.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73949&d=1505987403

I cut two pieces of plastic pipe to strengthen it up a bit and glassed those as well.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73950&d=1505987416

Finished product.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73951&d=1505987426

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73952&d=1505987434

Hopefully it will hold. Now it'll be up to the painter to make it nice.
-Matt

[mtwarog]

I finished putting in the dynamat in the trunk. It took a lot of cutting and measuring and it took a while.

I also lined the inside of the storage boxes.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73988&d=1506072997

I covered the top of the box lids
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73989&d=1506073008

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73990&d=1506073022

Added some tape around the box edges.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73992&d=1506073044

All done.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73991&d=1506073031

The trunk area ended up taking a whole box of the Dynamat 10455 Xtreme Bulk Pack.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

I've been finishing up putting the insulation around the foot boxes and floor.

Here are some pictures of the driver's side footbox with the rest of the insulation on:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73995&d=1506074058

With the cover's on:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74000&d=1506074066

Passenger side:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73996&d=1506074060

Passenger footbox with quadmat
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73993&d=1506074055

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73994&d=1506074057

[mtwarog]

Getting the dynamat on the floor
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73998&d=1506074062

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73997&d=1506074061

Done
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73999&d=1506074064

-Matt

[mtwarog]

I decided that I wanted to coat the underside of the body while the body was off the car. I didn't want the red from the body showing through and thought putting bed liner on would work well. I looked around and ended up buying some Dupli-Color Bed Armor. It is water based and was not too stinky putting on. I lightly sanded the underside, then vacuumed up the dust and wiped it down with PRE paint cleaner.

Taped up the edges:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74159&d=1506419003

On the roof, I put down two sheets of dynamat. I'm hoping this will hold and not fall on me while driving. Time will tell if this was a good decision or not.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74160&d=1506419023

Then I starting putting on the bed liner. The kit that I bought comes with a roller and a brush. I'd say the roller didn't really work that well with all the curves of the body. So it took a little longer with the brush, but it came out ok.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74161&d=1506419042

First coat on:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74162&d=1506419050

Applied the second coat and it looks a little better.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74163&d=1506419069

With help from my son, we pulled off all the tape. I'm pretty happy with how it came out. Tomorrow we'll put the body back on the car and see how everything fits. The hood will be another day once I finish trimming it to fit the body.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74164&d=1506419080

-Matt

[SingleMaltWSKY]

Looking really nice!

Great minds think alike, we also plan to integrate the wing like you have.

Question on the reverse lights, I like the location - are the Marker Lights - L488 going to be white lenses? If so, can you let me know where you got them?

Awesome build!

[mtwarog]

Thanks Jonas.

Yeah for the reverse lights I purchased them from: http://www.**********accessories.com/c-58-lights.aspx
Under "color", select "clear".

-Matt

[mtwarog]

With help from my Dad, we flipped the body over and put it back on the car. Every time we try to put the body back on, it seems as if it's not going to fit. Then after a few minutes of struggling, it pops right into place. This time I was more nervous putting it back on since I added all the trunk aluminum, dynamat etc. I figured this time it wouldn't fit, but I was wrong. The usual few minutes of struggle, then magically it's on.

I finally can see how those "wings" on the side trunk aluminum pieces will fit in. I always assumed they were meant to sit to the frame, but see now they will fit against the body and I'll tie them in later to seal between the inside and the outside.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74208&d=1506505159

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74209&d=1506505160

There's a little bit of a gap between the front mount and the body that I'll have to shim up.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74210&d=1506505161

The back mount is just about touching
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74211&d=1506505162

Zoomed out it looks pretty good
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74207&d=1506505158

Little bit of a gap on the driver's side between the door sill and the frame
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74212&d=1506505163

The passenger's side has a slightly bigger gap
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74213&d=1506505164

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Since the wheels I bought had a 6.8" backspace vs. the 6" backspace of the FFR 17" x 9" Vintage Halibrand Replica Wheels, I knew I'd need some spacers to bring out the tires a bit.

With the nose on the car, I got around to getting some front wheel spacers.
After a few quick measurements, I decided 1" would put them where I wanted. The edge of the tires are set in about 3/4" at the top of the wheel arch.
I bought a set of: 25mm (1") 5x4.5 to 5x4.5 Black Hubcentric Wheel Spacers for Ford Mustang by Precision European Motorwerks

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74214&d=1506505466

Now the front wheels fill out the nose a little better.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74216&d=1506505469

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74217&d=1506505470

Looking from the back:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74215&d=1506505468


-Matt

[mtwarog]

Catching up on some miscellaneous pictures as I finished the wiper installation, the firewall insulation and painted the seats.

First the wiper installation. I posted a while back and getting them ready to install, but never finished it. I was hoping the tubes would be the correct length because it was time consuming to get them setup correctly. I unconnected the nut holding the tube to the motor and the cable slide right out. Greased it up and put it back in. I wasn't sure how much to put on and didn't use a ton, but hopefully enough around the cable to prevent it from binding or rusting (Sorry, no pics). We lifted the front of the body up enough to fit in and then slowly lowered the body, but the hole/notch that I cut in the body mount wasn't big enough. So got the dremel and made it bigger. Then it fell right into place.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74219&d=1506505761

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74220&d=1506505762

After the test fit, picked the body back up and finished the insulation on the firewall. Used some more of the quadmat for this.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74221&d=1506505763

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74222&d=1506505764

Now with the body back on.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74223&d=1506505765

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74224&d=1506505766

Zoomed out it looks pretty good. I hope they don't break anytime soon after the body/windshield is on as it will be really difficult to service.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74225&d=1506505767

[mtwarog]

Finished up the insulation around the footbox and front of the transmission tunnel. Also finished snaking the rear speaker wires through the transmission tunnel and into the inside of the car.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74226&d=1506505768

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74227&d=1506505769

Painted the seats and the slider.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74218&d=1506505759

-Matt

[Automan]

Hi, Get breakdown on your build. Fascinating. Fantastic job. Are you going to continue on with the remainder of your build here?

thanks
Nelson

[mtwarog]

Thanks Nelson.

Yeah, I'm going to continue to update the remainder of my build here. It just takes time to find the correct pictures to upload and replace the links. I try to get a couple updates posted every few days.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

It was time to get back to working on the doors. I setup the frame to open and close without the door on. I tried to adjust the door frame to be roughly parallel and still open and close. I wasn't exactly sure where the frame would line up inside the door, but figured I had to start somewhere.

First was to clamp the door to the frame to see where I need to cut for the latch now that the door shell was sitting in the correct position with the body.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74316&d=1506723005

Used my dremel to cut out the hole for the inside handle and shop-vac to keep the dust down.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74318&d=1506723007

Once the hole was made, then needed to fish the handle through from the inside.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74317&d=1506723006

Then I could close the door and mark where I needed to cut for the latch and made the cut.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74319&d=1506723008

Now the door could close and latch. Next was to loosen the bolts from the frame to the chassis and play around for a long time. Going back and forth between getting the door to latch, have the door frame sit flush against the door and getting the door to fit and open and close without rubbing against the body. This took a while.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74320&d=1506723009

Now repeat for the passenger side and started drilling and mounting the door to the frame
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74321&d=1506723010

All 4 bolts in.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74322&d=1506723011

[mtwarog]

For the striker posts, I made a spacer so the large washer on the post would sit over the body. You can see for the driver's side, I cut out a really large hole in the body. I originally thought that the large washer would be inside the body and therefore needed a large hole in the fiberglass. What I realized is that I only needed a small hole in the body, just enough to fit the bolt and spacer. The post needs to stick out pretty much all the way to latch on the door.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74323&d=1506723012

So, I re-fiberglassed in this hole so I wouldn't have the body cutout extend past the large washer on the striker post.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74324&d=1506723014

Then re-drilled a smaller hole and now the washer will cover the hole.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74325&d=1506723015

Looking at the above pictures makes it seem like the whole process went quick and easy. It was far from it. :) The fitting of the doors took a long time and a lot of small adjustments of the frame and sanding of the door.
In the end, it came out pretty well. Any fine adjustments will have to be done by my painter.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

With the doors on, it was time to move on to the hood. I had fit it on a while back lining it up with the front wheel well, but hadn't done any trimming where it meets the body.

To get the initial marking of where to trim, I put down a piece of tape on the body with the edge of the tape on the edge where the hood would go:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74326&d=1506723477

Now closing the hood I could see how much I would need to trim.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74327&d=1506723555

Next was to put a piece of tape on the hood lining it up with the tape on the body.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74328&d=1506723603

Then have at it with my dremel, cutting off the piece of the hood with the tape.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74329&d=1506723605

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74330&d=1506723606

I put a small spacer in the middle of the hood to line up flush with the body and closed the hood to see how the fit was. You can see the hood was higher than the body by about 3/16" or so. I considered myself lucky after seeing the gaps on other red body coupes that were much larger.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74331&d=1506723607

[mtwarog]

Passenger side about the same.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74332&d=1506723607

Since the gap wasn't too big, I decided that I'd just add more fiberglass to the lip and then grind off the bottom of the lip until the top of the hood fit flush.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74333&d=1506723608

After a bunch of grinding with my belt sander, the fit ended up pretty decent. What a dust storm though. Dust everywhere.....
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74334&d=1506723609

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74335&d=1506723610

-Matt

[mtwarog]

I put together the hood latches by riveting on the plate that I'd previously powder coated. I only had the longer rivets left, so I made a little spacer out of aluminum to give the rivet something to grab onto.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74336&d=1506724188

After filing away a bunch of fiberglass, the latch fit pretty well, so I clamped it on and started drilling the holes.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74337&d=1506724189

For some reason the bottom piece isn't flush with the top part of the latch, so I made some more spacers to space the latches in the same amount.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74338&d=1506724190

Got it put on.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74340&d=1506724192

I thought about bending the top tabs flat on not putting spacers, but I kind of like how the latch is recessed in the hood. Also, if I bent the top tabs, I'd have to make sure the holes were the same width as the lower mount, otherwise the bolts from the outside wouldn't look even. Anyways, just left them as is.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74339&d=1506724191

Then repeat on the passenger side
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74341&d=1506724193

[mtwarog]

Now on to the hood struts. I didn't like the way the hood strut bracket on the front only attached with two bolts into the fiberglass. Figured that would just rip out at some point. So, I made up some aluminum pieces and sandwiched those around the fiberglass.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74342&d=1506724194

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74343&d=1506724195

Driver's side.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74344&d=1506724196

Then attached the other mount to the frame and installed the struts.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74345&d=1506724197

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Since the hood is hard to open with one person without getting caught up on the latch and hard to close without getting the end of the hood caught on the body, I bought some hood rollers. I got these from Whitby Motorcars.

I sent the bracket off to my Dad's to powder coat them. They were pretty straight forward to install. Got the passenger side done and adjusted them so when the latch is closed the bottom wheel holds the hood out to the correct position. I installed them lower than the directions say so the bottom wheel would be closer to the bottom of the hood.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74346&d=1506724495

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74347&d=1506724497

On the driver's side, even with the wheel out as far as it could go, I couldn't get the wheel to touch the body when closed. I'm not sure if it's due to how I adjusted the body when doing the doors or not. Maybe I'll look into tweaking it a little and re-adjust the driver's door, but for now just made up a couple spacers out of aluminum to push the whole bracket out a bit. Now it works perfectly.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74348&d=1506724498

Thanks.
-Matt

[mtwarog]

I had put together the rear hatch hinge and hardware on the hatch glass a while back, but didn't mount the strut brackets and struts. Now that I had the body back on I wanted to get this done.

Ok, the first thing was to position the bracket and then drill the holes making sure all three screws would go through the 1" square tube. With the dynamat on and the body, it was tough to see if where the drill bit would end up on the tube. Just had to go for it and drill.

Ended up getting lucky on the passenger side and all three holes made it.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74351&d=1506724673

One thing I did notice was that the 1" supplied screws weren't going to be long enough, so needed to buy some 1.5" ones.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74350&d=1506724672

Got lucky on the driver's side as well
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74353&d=1506724676

Still need another coat of bedliner on the aluminum.......
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74354&d=1506724677

Driver's mount on.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74355&d=1506724678

Passenger mount on.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74356&d=1506724679

Not bad.... It actually now opens and closes.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74352&d=1506724675

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Finally finished wiring up my shaved door kit openers and tested them out. These are the Spal Shaved-40 Door kit. I wrote about mounting them a while back, but never tested to see if they worked.

First for a few pictures:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74357&d=1506724907

Snaked wires through the door hinges.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74358&d=1506724908

Passenger side done.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74359&d=1506724909

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74360&d=1506724911

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74361&d=1506724912

Now for a cheesy video to show them in action......
https://youtu.be/K16CC6bpnMk

Hopefully they still work when I put the fiberglass doors on.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

I haven't really been looking forward to putting in the windows, but now was the time. I started with the passenger side. First was to see how the frame would fit to the door.
I could see that I'd need to trim a bunch off the top of the door so the window frame would fit flush with the door. Took my best guess on how much I needed to cut on the front and the back. Then put a pieced of tape on the door where I would cut.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74362&d=1506725173

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74363&d=1506725174

Once the cut was made I started drilling holes in the door to mount the window frame. The bottom hole hit some metal of the door frame, so I tapped that into the frame. The top two holes were just into the fiberglass of the door, so I used the supplied lock nuts.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74364&d=1506725175

The same for the rear, with the lower screw hitting the metal frame.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74365&d=1506725176

Frame removed, can see the 3 holes on the front and back of the door.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74366&d=1506725177

Frame in.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74367&d=1506725178

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74368&d=1506725179

The passenger side went in pretty well. Next up the driver's side. Figured that would be a piece of cake. Wrong. Will post more on that later.......

-Matt

[mtwarog]

After having pretty good success on the passenger side's window, I moved on to the driver's side. Made the estimate of how much I needed to trim, then put the tape down and made the cut.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74498&d=1506937806

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74499&d=1506937807

Next was to drill the hole for the window frame. The front went ok and I hit the frame for the lower hole and tapped that. Then came the back of the frame. As I drilled through the fiberglass for the bottom hole, the drill bit then hit some metal and shifted to the side. I took the door skin off and put a piece of tape about where the hole was to see exactly where I was. I was right below the 1" square tube hitting the weld between the tube and the back plate. Couldn't tap it, couldn't drill it and couldn't get a nut on it. See little black dot on the tape where the hole in the door is:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74500&d=1506937808

So I took my dremel and notched out that metal in the frame.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74501&d=1506937809

I then took another small piece of scrap metal that I had and JB Welded it into position. Then put the door skin back on and drilled and tapped this new piece.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74504&d=1506937812

[mtwarog]

Next was to put the window frame back on and line things up. Then I noticed that the frame wouldn't side flush on the door, so I started grinding away some of the fiberglass. Yup, I needed to grind away a lot and created a big hole in the process.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74502&d=1506937810

Had to then patch that up.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74503&d=1506937811

And grind it back down.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74505&d=1506937817

Now put the frame back on and things fit ok. Couldn't get the allen wrench on the top back hole of the frame. Will have to get a hex head screw to fit. Also, needed to put some washers on the frame to make it sit better in the body opening. Then I tried to close the door and found the window frame hitting the body. A little trim of the frame and now the door closes. After all that, I still didn't have the actual windows in the frame. I still wasn't quite sure how the actual window and bottom will fit in the frame, so next up the windows.....

-Matt

[mtwarog]

I unpacked the windows and found the rubber edge trim that goes around it. Worked my way around with the edge trim and trimmed the corners and edges with some cutters.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74506&d=1506938137

The window was able to slide in from the bottom and fit pretty snug. Then to get the bottom piece to line up I need to re-bend the tabs to fit correctly.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74507&d=1506938138

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74508&d=1506938139

Got the passenger side in as well and this required some trimming and re-bending the tabs in the bottom piece, but eventually got it to fit pretty well. With the window frame flush to the door, then top of the window framed lined up about perfect.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74509&d=1506938140

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74510&d=1506938141

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74511&d=1506938142

[mtwarog]

I eventually went back to the driver's side and made some spacers and used washers to better fit the window frame with the body. Without the spacers the window frame was sticking out too far from the body. After many hours of work it finally came out decent.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74512&d=1506938143

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74513&d=1506938145

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74514&d=1506938146

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Since I was planning on painting on bed liner to the underside of my hood, I wanted to make the necessary cuts in the fiberglass for the headlights. First was to figure out how the lights went together.

Got the headlights and buckets assembled.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74527&d=1507023532

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74529&d=1507023534

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74530&d=1507023535

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74528&d=1507023533

Now with the headlight assembled, let's see how it fits. I made a template based on the dimensions from the manual and put it over the pre-cut hole. Looks like I'll need to do some trimming.... In fact the pre-drilled holes didn't even line up.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74531&d=1507023536

Same with the other side
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74532&d=1507023537

So I enlarged the hole for the bucket and then took a drill and enlarged the two little holes to line up. After doing so, I then had a slot instead of a hole, so I glassed those back in and re-drilled in the correct position.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74533&d=1507023538

Now the bucket fit in and lined up with the holes.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

The wheel well aluminum was one of those tasks I wasn't really looking forward to doing. It looked like it would be hard to get both halves of the aluminum to line up properly when on the hood and frame. I also didn't really like the way it was supposed to mount to the hood with rivets on either end and nothing in the middle. I thought some supports to the hood would work better.

First up was figuring out how it was going to fit. Starting with the passenger side, I took a couple pieces of scrap wood and sandwiched the aluminum between the two to set the gap. I left about 1" gap thinking I was have the bulb sealer on both sides to fill the gap.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74534&d=1507023802

I clamped the edge and went to see how it would line up. Basically, I was trying to get the lower section mounted to the frame in the correct location.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74535&d=1507023803

You can see the flexible brake line on the inside of the 1" tube worked out well. The line looped right under the aluminum.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74537&d=1507023805

Once I was fairly happy with the location, I drilled the lower part and attached to the frame. I cut about 3" off the front of the lower part so it would sit flush on the 1" tube. Also, had the top of the piece sit above the 1" frame which now protects the AC hoses.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74538&d=1507023807

After this piece was in, I put the wood back on and marked on the hood where the top piece lined up.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74536&d=1507023804

Now the same with the driver side.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74539&d=1507023808

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74540&d=1507023809

Marked the hood where the driver's side fit as well.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

I probably should have put this picture in the previous post, but I knew it would take me a few posts to document it all. Here are the markings on the hood where I was planning on putting the mounts.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74541&d=1507024118

I took the hood off and was trying to decide where and how many mounts to put. I first thought 4 on each side in the positions below. You can kind of see them in black marker:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74542&d=1507024119

I made up my 8 mounts out of 1-1/2" aluminum angle. I drilled some large holes in the middle so the fiberglass would have a little more to bite.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74543&d=1507024120

With the hood flat, I glassed in the mounts that gravity could help hold in place. You can see I changed my mind from the previous markings so the mounts would be on 2 of the 3 sides of the aluminum. I was thinking if I tried to put a mount on all 3 sides and didn't get it perfect, it would be harder to adjust when fitting the aluminum. With just 2 sides, I'll have more leeway to make the adjustments.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74544&d=1507024121

Then flipped it on the side and got the ones on the sides of the hood. It helps to have gravity working for you instead of against you......
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74545&d=1507024122

I also put some tabs around the vent area to hold the mesh and (you'll like this one Chris, thanks for the idea) maybe an exhaust fan at some point to vent the heat under the hood.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74546&d=1507024123

[mtwarog]

All the mounts in.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74547&d=1507024124

With all that done it was time to tape it off and paint on the bed liner.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74548&d=1507024125

After two coats.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74549&d=1507024126

All done and tape removed.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74550&d=1507024127

Looks like it'll take me another post to get to installing the aluminum.....

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Ok, this should be the last post on the front wheel wells.....

I put the aluminum back in and lined up the bottom the best I could with a gap for the bulb seal. Then started drilling the holes and cleco'd it on.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74586&d=1507080081

The bottom fit together pretty well. I ended up using the side bulb seal on the bottom.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74587&d=1507080082

Next I traced a constant gap of about <3/4" inch where the edge of the aluminum meets the hood.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74588&d=1507080083

Then trimmed the excess off and put the bulb seal around the top.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74589&d=1507080084

Showing the bottom with the side bulb seal.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74590&d=1507080086

[mtwarog]

Repeat for the driver's side.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74591&d=1507080086

The driver's side aluminum had larger >3/4" gaps in places, but still trimmed the rest that was <3/4".
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74592&d=1507080088

With the bulb seal on there was a little gap in some places, oh well. I could probably not push the bulb seal fully on in those places or someday get some thicker seal.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74594&d=1507080090

Both on
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74593&d=1507080089

Still need to paint them with bed liner before I finally mount them with rivets.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

With the hood back on and in the final position, I could finally fit the aluminum behind the radiator.

First was to tape it in place. Ignore my blue tape where I'm trying to figure out how wide I want my stripes....
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74595&d=1507080429

Then marked the side where the "wings" would go.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74596&d=1507080431

I ended up putting a second small piece of aluminum on the side where it attaches to the frame to stiffen it up a bit and better hold everything in place. Added the bulb seal.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74597&d=1507080433

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74598&d=1507080434

Passenger side
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74599&d=1507080435

On the bottom I tied it to the frame with some aluminum angle and rivets.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74601&d=1507080437

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74600&d=1507080436

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Mounted the front horns and finished up the wiring up in front.

I made a little bracket out of aluminum and put the horns up front.
Passenger side:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74608&d=1507080713

Driver side:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74607&d=1507080712

Here's the wiring for the front headlights
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74602&d=1507080706

I drilled a hole through the fiberglass and threaded the wires through the hole.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74603&d=1507080707

Driver's side, before the wire conduit
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74604&d=1507080709

It worked!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74606&d=1507080711

It doesn't look like much work when finished, but the floor tells a different story.........
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74605&d=1507080710

-Matt

[mtwarog]

For the past month or two, I kept meaning on putting the nose side locator brackets on the hood. The problem was, I couldn't find them. Then last week when I was testing out the fog lights, I finally found them in the box with the fog lights. I must have put them there many months back when first putting the hood on.

Since I added fiberglass to the lip, it wasn't flat on the top side of the lip. Fortunately, the pontoon was not flat as well where it meets the hood.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74611&d=1507080970

I ground off some of the fiberglass so the plat would sit flat on the lip.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74609&d=1507080967

Now the bracket fits flat and at about the same angle as the pontoon.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74610&d=1507080969

Drilled the center hole.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74612&d=1507080971

Counter sunk the screws in the fiberglass.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74614&d=1507080973

Added the acorn nut on the pontoon.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74613&d=1507080972

It works.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74615&d=1507080974

-Matt

[mtwarog]

I bought Russ Thompson's rear quarter windows kit a few years back, even before I picked up the kit from FFR. I was finally at the stage in the build to put them on.

Starting with the passenger side, the first thing was to mount the bracket. I lined it up with the side window to have the least amount of bracket showing from the outside.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74616&d=1507081175

It went together pretty quickly with the exception of trying to drill the holes into the stainless steel bracket. Once that was done I could mount them on.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74617&d=1507081176

Here's a view from the inside.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74618&d=1507081177

Opened:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74619&d=1507081178

Repeat for the driver's side
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74620&d=1507081180

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74621&d=1507081182

I'm in process of powder coating the bracket black to match the window frame. Once the car painting is done, I'll remove the protective cover on the lexan and add some bulb seal around the edges.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

I used the side mirror that came with the kit for the driver's side and bought another one for the passenger side. Had to put the seat back in my car and see what I could see. I started with the passenger side and angled the whole mirror instead of keeping the base straight and moving the mirror part in the cup. Tried my best to position it to where I could see part of the fender. The mirrors are pretty small and may not be able to see anything when driving.

I wanted to drill the holes before paint in case I really screwed something up.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74649&d=1507163305

Mounted
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74650&d=1507163307

Driver's side. Screwed up the first time as I didn't have it positioned correctly and had to drill a second hole. What I should have done the first time was to drill the first hole, then mount it, then swivel it to when I want it. Then trace the bottom and drill the second hole.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74652&d=1507163309

Side
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74653&d=1507163310

From back.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74654&d=1507163311

Both on. Looking from the front you can see the passenger side is angled in more, but in my opinion this looks better than having the mirror part (which adjusts) not in the center of the cup. I really need to decide on the stripe/width spacing soon and get ride of that blue tape on the hood....
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74651&d=1507163308

-Matt

[mtwarog]

When I first started the build and up until a few month ago, it was never clear to me exactly where the body mounted to the frame. I knew the tail lights served as a mounting point, but not sure of all the other places. Now that I've made it this far in the build, I'll post the other spots where I put mounts.

Rear tail lights:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74659&d=1507163788

Made a spacer out of spare fiberglass:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74655&d=1507163571

Bottom sides behind the mufflers:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74656&d=1507163573

Struts for rear glass hatch:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74350&d=1506724672

Made a piece of aluminum for a spacer on the bottom of the windshield:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74660&d=1507164025

Bolted it through:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74661&d=1507164026

Door strikers
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74662&d=1507164027

[mtwarog]

Top of windshield. Again had to make a spacer.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74657&d=1507163574

From inside:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74663&d=1507164159

Top of rear hatch:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74658&d=1507163575

There you have it. Those are all the points where the body attaches to the frame on my car.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Next up on the list was the rear wheel well aluminum splash guard. I was hoping that these would be easier than the front. These pieces required just a little trimming to fit properly with the bulb seal.

Drilled the holes into the frame and it lined up really well.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74664&d=1507164362

I left about 1/2" gap with the aluminum to the body. Then added the bulb seal to fill it up.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74665&d=1507164363

Instead of riveting through the body to attach the bottom of the guard to the body, I decided to add a mount. Here I ground the bed liner off:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74666&d=1507164364

Made up some more aluminum mount pieces from some angle
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74667&d=1507164365

Then glassed them in
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74668&d=1507164366

I left about 1/2" gap and coated them with bed liner
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74669&d=1507164367

[mtwarog]

Cleaned up and coated the aluminum panels with bed liner as well. Had to make some notches in the aluminum for my rear speaker wires.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74670&d=1507164368

Added the bulb seal
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74671&d=1507164369

Test fit them again.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74672&d=1507164370

From under the car.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74673&d=1507164371

Once the car is back from paint, I'll permanently install them.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Have a few miscellaneous pictures of things that I've done.

First is that I trimmed the body fiberglass on the inside of the window frames so the fiberglass wouldn't show from the outside.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74674&d=1507164718

You can see what I needed to trim.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74675&d=1507164719

I also fit the aluminum on the inside under the doors. I decided to cut it into two pieces. That why I can carpet over the bottom piece of aluminum. Then have the top piece fit over it and hide the edge of the carpet. We'll see if it works out that way when I get to the carpet.
Showing where I made the cut:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74680&d=1507164725

Installing the bottom piece:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74681&d=1507164726

Repeat for the driver's side:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74682&d=1507164727

Showing where the top piece will sit after paint and carpet:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74683&d=1507164729

[mtwarog]

Playing around a bit more with the stripes. Here's 7.5" wide with 1.25" space at the front going to 8" wide
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74678&d=1507164723

Here's 8" wide with 1.25" space at the front going to 8.5" wide.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74679&d=1507164724

Here's 8.5" wide with 1.25" space at the front going to 9" wide
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74677&d=1507164722

Finally a picture outside with the body on.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74676&d=1507164721

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Today was the day to send the car off to paint. Got up and hitched the trailer to the truck and then it started to rain. After waiting a couple of hours and checking the radar, the rain cleared. With the help of my Dad and two oldest nephews, we loaded it up. I had driven the car up on the trailer before, but this was the first time with the body on. Just lined everything up and gave it a shot. I quickly found out with wet tires and wet ramps, you need to go for it. No going slow up the ramp. Got the car up and we strapped it down.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74689&d=1507165018

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74690&d=1507165019

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74691&d=1507165021

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74692&d=1507165022

Off we went. After the 1.5 hour drive we arrived. Backed the car off and parked it in the lot.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74693&d=1507165023

Now it's waiting time.......

-Matt

[mtwarog]

My Dad and I took a trip down to the painter's shop to check out the progress. I was very happy to see the progress. Since I didn't do any of the work, I can't say whether it was hard or not and I can't complain about the dust or heat. Here are the pictures to show how it sits today:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74701&d=1507165464

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74700&d=1507165463

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74702&d=1507165465

The rear spoiler came out great.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74704&d=1507165467

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74703&d=1507165466

[mtwarog]

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74705&d=1507165468

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74699&d=1507165462

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74698&d=1507165461

Here's a sneak peek at the color. It's Rallye Green from a 1969 Camaro. I can't wait to see it on the car.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74706&d=1507165469

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Got a text from my painter...........

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74707&d=1507165736

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74708&d=1507165736

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74710&d=1507165737

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74709&d=1507165737

-Matt

[mtwarog]

My Dad and I hitched up the trailer and we drove out to Western MA to pickup the car. The weather was perfect and everything went well. I'm really happy with the color and how everything turned out.

Here are the pictures to prove it:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74711&d=1507165961

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74712&d=1507165963

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74713&d=1507165964

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74714&d=1507165965

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74715&d=1507165966

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74716&d=1507165967

[mtwarog]

Made it home:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74717&d=1507165969

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74718&d=1507165970

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74719&d=1507165971

For the white stripes, the painter said he used the same stripe color that would have been on the 1969 rallye green camero. It came out great.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Well after 2 months off from working on the coupe while getting painted, I'm back at it. It's a little strange installing things for the last time. It seems like the previous 6 months were test fitting something, then taking it off and putting it back in a box (ex. gas cap, mirrors, head/tail/fog lights, splash guards, etc.). I also was reminded how long it takes to do the simplest thing.

Here are the pictures of the final gas cap install. I had done all the fitting a long time back.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74722&d=1507196502

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74723&d=1507196503

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74721&d=1507196500

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74720&d=1507196498

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Continuing on this the final installation of things, next up was the front headlights. Since I'd done all the trial fitting before paint, these went in fairly quickly. I just needed to file a bit of the paint away as I made the holes tight before paint. The only thing I didn't do was to put the screw to hold the trim ring for the headlight. There was no room to easily do this, so I'm just skipping this as the trim ring snapped in and seems to be pretty tight. We'll see if it ever pops off while driving.

Once the headlights were in, the running/directional lights went in quick as well. I had already pre-made the connections for those, so just needed to put some flex tubing around them and route the wires.

Next up were the fog lights. These were a little trickier to install and tighten up, but I was able to finally get a wrench in there to make it tight.

Lastly, I installed the front camera, temp sensor for the review mirror and routed the wires for those and the fog lights. I had previously glassed in some tabs and used them to hold the wires from flopping around.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74724&d=1507196718

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74725&d=1507196719

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74729&d=1507196723

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74726&d=1507196720

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74727&d=1507196721

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74728&d=1507196722

[mtwarog]

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74730&d=1507196724

Camera and temp sensor close up.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74733&d=1507196727

View from the mirror. Better watch out for the jack....
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74731&d=1507196725

Lights work!!!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74732&d=1507196726

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Installed the tail lights. Top are the brake (high)/running (low) lights, middle are the turn signals (high)/running (low) lights and bottom are the reverse lights.

My fingers are in pain from getting the lenses and the trim rings on the back lights. The lense goes on first and that sets in the rubber, then the trim ring goes on over and that sets in the rubber. It reminded me of putting a tire on a bicycle. You have to work your way around and then at some point its all on. I didn't want to use any tools and scratch things up, so my thumbs paid the price trying to peal the rubber around the glass and trim.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74734&d=1507197021

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74735&d=1507197022

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74736&d=1507197023

-Matt

[mtwarog]

I noticed my door latches seemed to be kind of hard to open. I thought that some of it could be related to the cable from the latch to the handle. I never liked that the cable housing was too long and really bowed up inside the door. So I took off the door skin and went about shortening the cable. I found that if I put a set of vise grips on the plastic end near the handle, I could unscrew it from the cable housing. Then I pulled out the cable and ended up cutting off about 3". This made a much better fit inside the door when on.
The latches were still kind of hard to open even manually moving it. I realized they were dry and I hadn't put any grease on them. I used a bunch of white lithium grease and worked that in all the moving parts of the latch. Now everything was much smoother and so easy to open.

Here's a picture showing the plastic end that I unscrewed from the cable before cutting the housing.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74797&d=1507339539

With the doors back on and working much better, I had a chance to put the mirrors back on.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74798&d=1507339541

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74799&d=1507339542

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74800&d=1507339543

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74801&d=1507339544

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74802&d=1507339545

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Since I'm going with a 2 piece removable dash, I was always concerned on how I was going to attach the defrost vents to the top piece and still be able to install/remove the top dash. Fortunately, I didn't trim any of the fiberglass on the bottom near where the windshield was going to go. If I mount the vents to the fiberglass, then they can be permanently mounted and the top dash can theoretically be installed/removed without being connected to the vent hoses.

I marked up the locations and drilled/dremeled the holes and slots.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74803&d=1507339778

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74804&d=1507339780

Next I started laying out the hoses and the room quickly disappears.....
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74805&d=1507339781

To cover up the slots and provide a more finished look, I purchased a set of covers. These are the Vintage Air VTA-49161-LHA defrost louvers. I spray painted the screws black to match and installed them.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74806&d=1507339782

[mtwarog]

For the AC, I previously installed two vents in the dash, one on the driver's side and one on the passenger's side. I connected these up to two of the 3 oval connections on the unit. For the two heat connections (closest to the firewall), I needed to make some mounts. I was going to install them under the dash and be able to shoot the heat towards the floor. Made these out of aluminum.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74807&d=1507339783

Installed the passenger side under the AC vent here:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74808&d=1507339784

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74810&d=1507339786

And the driver's side to the right of the steering wheel here:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74809&d=1507339785

I taped up the unused middle oval AC output and connected everything up.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74811&d=1507339787

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74812&d=1507339789

I sure hope the heater/AC works, because I never tested it before installing it.....

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Installed the third brake light on the back of the rear spoiler. I bought a Partsam Red 15" Waterproof 11 LED Light (Model #132286) with Dimensions:15.5" x 1.25" x 0.5" It was the thinnest one I could find at only 0.5" thick.

I had previously purchased a different one a year or two back. When I went to look at it again, it seemed really big, had some scrapes on it and the plastic housing didn't look great. You can see the new one on the TOP below:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74813&d=1507340135

Always a little nerve racking drilling holes in the finished body.....
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74814&d=1507340135

Installed.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74815&d=1507340136

And it works.....
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74816&d=1507340137

Also installed the backup camera. It's hard to even notice it and sits nicely under the lip of the body.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74817&d=1507340138

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Put the rear wheel well aluminum on for the final time. I had test fit and painted these with bedliner before sending the car off to paint.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74818&d=1507340351

One rivet in the bottom to tie in the body.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74819&d=1507340352

Driver's side before:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74820&d=1507340353

After
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74821&d=1507340355

[mtwarog]

Also finished putting on the front
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74822&d=1507340356

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74823&d=1507340357

Added a small strip of seal on the hood where it meets the pontoon.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74824&d=1507340358

Closed:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74825&d=1507340359

A couple shots of the whole car as it stands now:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74826&d=1507340359

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74827&d=1507340360

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Next up was putting on the door straps to keep the doors from opening too wide. First I dyed the straps with Fiebings Leather Dye Black.

Here is the before picture:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74840&d=1507376922

Here is the after picture. Also dyed the seat belts.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74841&d=1507376923

I then drilled and tapped into the frame putting it as high as possible on the frame and about 1/2" from the outside. I installed it high to keep it in the middle of the door and away from bumping into ones knees when close. Then opened the door to see where to mount on the door. I ended up putting the holes a little over an inch from the corner of the door.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74842&d=1507376924

On the inside of the door I cut a piece of aluminum about 3"x7" to spread the load on the door skin.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74843&d=1507376925

Then installed it shown with door open.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74844&d=1507376926

Here is shown with door closed.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74845&d=1507376927

[mtwarog]

Repeat for driver's side. Shown open:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74847&d=1507376929

Driver's side closed.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74846&d=1507376928

I also installed the seal around the rear glass hatch. I used one side of the double D seal that came with the kit.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74848&d=1507376931

I tightened up the latch a little so the glass will close tight.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74849&d=1507376932

Note: I later changed out this seal with something thicker as the window would rattle when going over a bump.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

I'm still making progress on finishing up a bunch of things.
First up is the radio in the center console. I had cut up and made this piece a long time back and finally have gotten to the point where I can install it. It's very tight with the radio, heater controls along with the heater hoses and control valve, but it looks like everything will just fit.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74850&d=1507377357

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74851&d=1507377358

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74852&d=1507377359

With the aluminum cover on:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74853&d=1507377360

[mtwarog]

I cut up the tunnel cover so I can remove it if necessary. I added insulation to both sides.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74854&d=1507377361

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74855&d=1507377362

I drilled and tapped for screws to hold it on.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74856&d=1507377364

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74857&d=1507377365

Covered the cover with the carbon fiber wrap to match the dash.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74857&d=1507377365

-Matt

[mtwarog]

I haven't permanently installed the front speakers yet, but did drill the holes and do a test fit. I was pretty lucky as the speakers just exactly fit in the door indentation. These are Infinity Reference 5002ix 5-1/4" speakers.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74860&d=1507377690

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74861&d=1507377691

I also drilled the holes for the rear license plate. I decided to center it vertically between the brake and backup lights. Used some tape as a guide.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74859&d=1507377689

For the license plate light, I decided to use Miniature LED License Plate Bolts. I purchased MAL-S-WW2: Warm White with Silver Housing from superbrightleds. Here's with the plate installed and led mounting lights on.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74862&d=1507377692

Hopefully the question marks will become a real plate someday.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

I had cut the dash a long time ago and made a two piece dash. This has been great as I could install all the gauges, switches, etc. and could still work on everything behind it. Since I cut it, I needed to come up with a new piece for the top of the dash and find a way to attach it. I decided to us a piece of wood from the back of my TV console that I cut up years ago. It's 3/16" thick and can easily be cut and sanded into shape. I mocked up the size with cardboard and then cut the wood.

I fit it under the fiberglass up front and cut some notches to go around the defrost vents. Like I mentioned previously, I was happy that I could fit the defrost vents in the fiberglass. That way I could permanently connect them and not have to worry about how to attach them to the top of the dash.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74965&d=1507459337

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74966&d=1507459338

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74967&d=1507459340

Next up was to cover the dash with vinyl. I had picked up two marine vinyl sheets off the internet as it was hard to tell what it looked like on the computer. I figured I'd then pick which one I liked the best. Fortunately, I did like one better than the other. One was thin and glossy and the other thicker and matte. Since this is for the dash and I didn't want reflections, I went with the thicker matte vinyl.

Now it was time for arts and crafts. :) Traced it and cut it out.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74968&d=1507459341

Then I used some Permatex Body Shop Heavy Duty Headliner & Carpet Adhesive Part Number: 27828, that I bought to attach my headliner. I hoped this would work. We'll see how well it holds. I took my heat gun and lightly heated the vinyl to get rid of any wrinkles. Sprayed on the adhesive with a couple of coats, waited until it became tacky and then pressed it to the wood.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74969&d=1507459341

[mtwarog]

Then test fit it in the car. I was going back and forth about how to attach it, but decided it fits tight enough that I'm just going to put Velcro where it meets the bottom dash to hold it in place.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74970&d=1507459343

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74971&d=1507459344

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74972&d=1507459345

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Shoulda, Coulda, Woulda..... I think it would have been easier to install the headliner when I had the body upside down, but I didn't. I think it was because I didn't want it to get dirty during body prep. If I didn't install it, I probably should have traced it out. But I didn't, so here's how I installed the headliner. I bought some black headliner instead of the light color that came with the kit.

I put the headliner on top of the car and traced where I needed to cut. I wanted to get the front curve correct. I taped it upside down and marked it up.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74974&d=1507459644

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74975&d=1507459646

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74976&d=1507459647

I then cut it out and went to test fit it to the roof. The roll bar helped hold it up some.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74977&d=1507459648

I taped the front section, then sprayed a bunch of headliner adhesive to the roof and headliner. I waited a few minutes then started smoothing it on.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74978&d=1507459648

It went on pretty well. The difficult part was the edges that were above the roll bars. It started sticking and bunching up a bit. I just kept pulling (ripping) it apart and then smoothing it out. For the most part it came out pretty well. The part you can see looks good. The parts near the roll bars not so much. It's one of those things that if you aren't looking for it, you won't see it. I'm happy to be done with this step.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74979&d=1507459649

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74980&d=1507459650

-Matt

[mtwarog]

I bought the pre-cut carpet from FFR when I ordered my kit. After reading some posts and learning that the kit didn't have a piece to cover the sides of the trunk, I ordered an additional 2 yards of carpet from FFR. I needed up needing it all. Between the sides of the trunk, the inside of the doors, and various mistakes (ie. tracing wrong side of carpet, not sticking in the right spot and having to rip up, cutting too much) I used it all.

Before starting the carpet, I needed to rivet the trunk aluminum sides to the body. This closes the gap between the outside and the inside. You can see the rivets to the left of the round tube. Also needed to patch up the holes between the body and the frame behind the seats.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74984&d=1507459862

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74983&d=1507459861

I bent up some aluminum and riveted it in.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74981&d=1507459858

Then built up the inside with dynamat to make it flush with the rest of the dynamat
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74982&d=1507459860

I did this on both sides.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74985&d=1507459863

[mtwarog]

Now for the carpet on the floor of the trunk. The piece from FFR fit very well. I just needed to trim some off the sides to fit. I then sprayed part of the backside with adhesive. The plan was the rest would just sit flat so I could have access to the boxes in the floor,
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74986&d=1507459865

I sprayed more adhesive on the trunk floor and stuck that down. Then sprayed more on the parts that go down behind the seats.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74987&d=1507459866

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74988&d=1507459867

With that done it was on to the sides. Made a template with brown paper and cut and trimmed to fit. The section near the back was done with velcro to provide access to the access holes for the tail lights.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74989&d=1507459868

I wrapped the carpet around above the wheel wells and stuck to the body. This covered up the edges of the trunk aluminum sides.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74990&d=1507459869

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Here are the rest of the carpet pictures.

I had made the top piece of aluminum removable for the transmission tunnel, so I only glued the carpet to the top of the tunnel. I let the sides hang down and used velco to hold them.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74991&d=1507460141

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74992&d=1507460142

To finish off near the door openings, I decided to run carpet up the square 2" tube. This would hide the insulation on the outside of the footbox and close up the gap between the body and that tube. I marked in tape the location of the holes for the door straps, so I'd know where to punch the holes in the carpet once installed. Here's the before picture.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74993&d=1507460143

After:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74994&d=1507460145

[mtwarog]

Just a zoomed out shot showing carpet and templates everywhere....
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74995&d=1507460146

Trying to show the front, but hard to see everything with the black carpet. The only dynamat you still see is in the doors and where the rear speakers will go.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74996&d=1507460147

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74997&d=1507460149

Put some carpet in the doors.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74998&d=1507460150

Carpet in the back. Again, I just glued the top section and can lift up the carpet to get to the rear access panel.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74999&d=1507460151

To get access in the back, just roll up the floor carpet.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75000&d=1507460152

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75001&d=1507460153

There you have it. Done with carpet.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Here are some carpet install tips:

It's a balancing act between not having to cut a piece a million times to get the correct fit and cutting off too much. Using the brown packing paper that came with the kit in all the boxes worked out great. So anyone starting a new build should save those off when going through the boxes. I've used a ton of them for insulation templates, carpet templates, painting, under the car etc.

Two things that I found during the install:

1. Once you stick the carpet down and then try to pull it back up, the carpet fibers will pull out from the sheet and stay stuck to the adhesive. Then you are left with places in the carpet without "carpet". So if you have to pull it up, you'll probably have to cut and use a new piece.

2. If you wait the allotted time after spraying the adhesive, then it becomes really sticky and you only get one shot to position it. If you spray it on, then position the piece (within a minute or so) you can move it around and get it where you want it. Then with only a bit of the piece sticking, wait for the rest to become tacky. Then press the rest of the piece down. Or you can not spray part of the piece, then position that part first, press down the part you did spray. Then lift up and spray the other part.

Obviously test fit all the pieces first before spraying as they all need to be trimmed some amount.

[10LCobra]

That's looking great!

[mtwarog]

Installed the seats and the seat belts.

Not a lot to write here, just that it took some patience getting the bolts in the seats near the transmission tunnel. Just enough room to get my fingers in to start the nuts....

For the shoulder seat belts, you just undo and slide/take off the mount that comes on the belt and loop around the roll cage bar behind the seats. Do one at a time so you remember how the belt loops around the metal holder.

Passenger side in:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75039&d=1507542748

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75040&d=1507542750

Driver's side in:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75041&d=1507542751

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75042&d=1507542752

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Installed the shifter and boot. I have the mid-shift option on the Tremec TKO-500 transmission and bought a Hurst 538-7201 shifter stick. When I bought the transmission, there was an offer for a free shifter knob from Tremec, so that's what I used.

The shifter stick had mounting holes in it that are much bigger than the bolts used in the mid-shift. I also wasn't happy with the height and angle of the stick, so I drilled two new holes the correct diameter which lowered the stick and angled back some more.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75043&d=1507542913

With that on, drilled the holes for the trim ring and it was on.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75044&d=1507542915

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75045&d=1507542916

-Matt

[mtwarog]

The last big thing before trying to get the car titled, registered, inspected etc. was to get in the windshield. I did some research and thanks to the forum bought the following:
Flexline Windshield Auto Glass Universal Molding Flexible Trim Rubber 19mm 15 FT UM1913BR
3M 08682 Single Step Primer - 30 ml
3M 08693 Auto Glass Urethane Windshield Adhesive Cartridge - 10.5 fl. oz.

I had forgotten to test fit the windshield before paint, so I wasn't sure how it was going to fit into the opening. I temporarily taped in some rubber spacers to keep the glass flush with the body. I cut a couple little pieces of the trim off and used it to test fit the glass. Put a piece on the top and bottom:

Top:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75147&d=1507683864

Bottom: Uh-oh. There's not enough opening to get the glass with the trim into the opening.......
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75148&d=1507683865

Ok, so it doesn't really fit. Maybe need 1/8" or so more for the opening. Thinking to myself, why didn't I test fit this before paint? Oh well, can do anything about it now. I have the body mounted solid at the top and bottom and the hood fits well, so I don't want to change that. Seem like the only things left to do would be to grind the glass down or file the fiberglass to make the opening bigger. After sleeping on it a day, I decided I've never tried to grind glass before and didn't want to start now. So I went the route of filing down the fiberglass. It killed me to do this to my brand new paint, but kept telling myself the trim around the windshield will cover this up.

It's hard to see, but if you look closely at the top and bottom openings, you'll now see red instead of green or white. Fortunately, I didn't have to take a ton off, and split the different on the top and bottom. Now the glass would fit in with the trim on.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75149&d=1507683866

Using the blue tape on the outside of the window as a guide, I flipped the window over and masked off the inside where I would apply the black primer. It was about 1" on the top and sides and about 1-1/4" inches on the bottom.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75150&d=1507683867

Borrowed one of the kid's paint brushes and painted on the primer. The stuff is really thin and I went around twice to get even coverage. Painted a little spot where the rear view mirror would mount as well. A little bit bled under the tape, but this cleaned up easily with a razor.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75151&d=1507683868

I permanently mounted the rubber spacers with screws and trimmed some of them near the edge of the opening so the glass with trim would fit. Also stuck on some foam to hide the urethane that holds on the glass.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75152&d=1507683869

I worked the trim all around the glass. This wasn't easy to do as the opening in the trim that goes around the glass would close together as you are trying to get it on the glass. Would have to stick my fingers in to pry it open as I worked it around. There's also a bead of black sealant already on the trim which helps hold it to the glass, but as you stick your fingers in to open it, it starts to stick to your fingers and get everywhere...... Anyways, eventually got it done. Also glued on the button for the mirror.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75153&d=1507683870

[mtwarog]

Time to install it. Put the urethane in a jug of hot water for about 10-15 minutes to warm it up some. Cut a V shape in the nozzle, opened up the tube and started going around the window opening. One thing I forgot to mention, was that the glass didn't lay totally flat in the opening. The sides were up maybe an 1". There seemed to be enough flex in the windshield and didn't take much force to make it lay flat. So knowing that the urethane on the sides would have to hold the glass in, I applied a little more on the sides and less in the middle. I ended up using almost all of one tube.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75154&d=1507683871

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75155&d=1507683872

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75156&d=1507683874

-Matt

[mtwarog]

With the help of my Dad, we put it into place and then taped and strapped it down. I used pieces of wood rolled up inside a towel and jacket to spread the load pushing down.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75157&d=1507684170

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75158&d=1507684171

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75159&d=1507684172

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75160&d=1507684173

After letting it sit for a few days, I removed the strap and tape and think it came out pretty well.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75161&d=1507684174

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75162&d=1507684175

Shown inside with the rear view mirror.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75163&d=1507684176

There's a little bit of ripple on the trim in a few spots. I've tried heating up a little and it flattened out some. If it doesn't flatten out, I'll probably just lift it up and put a small amount of adhesive to keep it flat down to the body. The windshield hasn't popped up yet, so that's good. Like a lot of things with the build, time will tell how it holds up.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

I bought the Universal E-Brake Boot Bezel from Mike at replicaparts.com since now I have the parking brake up on top of the transmission tunnel. It's a very nice piece and matches the ring for the shifter. The boot required some trimming. I first drilled and mounted the trim ring, two of which I needed to tap into the 1" square tube of the transmission tunnel. I then removed the front to screws and put on the boot. Then I could mark the holes in the boot with the trim ring in the correct spot. Then I put the front two screws in and did the same with the back two.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75173&d=1507763182

Once this was done, I took an erasable marker and traced around the trim ring to see where I needed to trim the boot. Then I trimmed and installed it.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75175&d=1507763184

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75174&d=1507763183

With that done, it was on to the speakers. For the front speakers I bought a boom mat speaker baffle to go behind the speakers in the door.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75176&d=1507763185

Passenger side done:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75177&d=1507763186

Driver side done:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75179&d=1507763188

Put in the rears as well.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75178&d=1507763187

[mtwarog]

Lastly, got the wiper arms/blades installed:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75180&d=1507763189

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75181&d=1507763190

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Cut up a winter rubber floor mat from my Focus and put it in the driver's side:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75182&d=1507763464

It fits in pretty nice and doesn't slide around.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75183&d=1507763466

To finish up between the carpet and the door sill, I drilled and tapped some flat head screws to hold the sill to the frame.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75184&d=1507763469

I painted the side aluminum pieces that I cut up sometime back.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75185&d=1507763470

Then I sprayed more of that spray on adhesive and stuck them on.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75187&d=1507763473

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75186&d=1507763472

-Matt

[mtwarog]

I painted the mesh that covers the hole in the hood black. I then used some of the windshield urethane that I had left over to attach them to the hood.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75190&d=1507763673

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75191&d=1507763674

Also finished blocking up the holes between the foot boxes and the body.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75188&d=1507763670

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75189&d=1507763672

[mtwarog]

Lastly finished up installing the Russ Thompson 1/4 windows. I ended up using a thicker rubber seal on them and the latch was now too short. I decided that I'd probably never open the windows, so I just put a long screw in and have them permanently closed. Also added some pipe insulation around the roll cage.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75192&d=1507763675

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75193&d=1507763676

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75194&d=1507763677

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75196&d=1507763679

And one final picture of how it sits today:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75195&d=1507763678

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Here's the saga of trying to get a VIN number assigned to my car in MA. The procedure is that I'm supposed to go to the registry of motor vehicles and fill out an application for getting an assigned VIN number. I did this on October 20th. I just walk into the registry with the form, explain to the person at the desk what I'm doing and how it works, pay the $50 and get a receipt for this application. I was in and out in about 15 minutes. Then I can call up and try to schedule an appointment for the VIN assignment with the state police at a salvage title inspection center. There are 5 centers around the state and you can go to any of them. I chose the Bridgewater site because I heard horror stories about the officer at the Northboro site, so I wanted to avoid any hassle. The Bridgewater site is about 1.5 hours from my house vs. about 50 minutes to the closest site in Northboro, so just a little bit further, but hopefully worth the extra driving.

So on Nov. 7th, I call up and I get a recording saying that if I'm calling for a VIN assignment, leave a message with my name and number and someone will get back to me. So I leave a voicemail saying I want to make an appointment with my name and number. I don't hear back after 10 days, so I call again and leave another message on Nov. 17th. Again, I don't hear back. So on Dec. 9th I call again and actually talk with a person this time. I again leave my name, number, etc. and the guy says he'll forward my information on to the Bridgewater site. Again, no calls, nothing. So I took Thursday Dec. 23rd off from work and since I hadn't heard anything back from the state police, my Dad and I took a trip down to Bridgewater to try and talk with someone about trying to get a VIN number assigned to my car. The place opens at 8am and it is first come first serve for salvage inspections. We get there at about 8:50. We are the 8th car in line on a road outside this building which houses equipment for the Mass highway department. There wasn't really a place to walk in and we didn't want to bother anyone, so we figured we'd wait our turn and then try to talk with someone. Around 9am, 2 cars pull out and the first 2 cars now in line pull in. We are now 6th in line and see that it takes a little under 1 hour for the office to inspect 2 vehicles for the salvage title. At this rate we figure we'll be seen a little before noon. At 9:50, I get a phone call on my cell phone and as I pull out my phone it says "restricted number". Since I didn't know what that was and figured it was just a telemarketer, I don't answer. A few seconds later, it says I have a voicemail. I listen to it and there's a guy that says: "Hi Matt, this is the officer from the state police salvage title center and I'm calling to schedule an appointment to get a VIN assigned to your car. I'll try back later."

Unbelievable. After all that time waiting, the guy calls as I'm waiting in line at the site!!!! I couldn't believe it and of course start laughing and kicking myself for not answering. Oh well, at this point we are 4th in line and probably have only another hour or so to wait.

At 11:15 or so, it was our turn. We drive into the parking lot and the officer comes out. He's looking funny at my Dad's car because we have valid plates, whereas everyone else for the salvage title has the car either on a trailer or with dealer plates. I say who I am and that I'm trying to schedule and appointment to get a VIN assigned and ask him if he could review my paperwork to make sure I had everything I needed. He then says, with a puzzled look, "I just called you." He then says a comment about my Dad's car with regular plates and that he hopes that car wasn't there for a salvage title. He said, oh you didn't have to wait in line, you could have just walked up and talked to me. We said we didn't know and didn't want to hassle him. He takes my paperwork and goes inside. We wait for about 10 minutes, then he comes back and says it all looks good. I just need to bring two copies of it and a copy of my license to the appointment. He then says, how about next Thursday at 10am. I said perfect. Then he asked if I came to Bridgewater because of the trooper in Northboro. I said yeah and laughed. He said next Thursday, I can just pull in with it on the trailer and not have to wait in line. I asked what about if it snows next Thursday and he gave me a number to call just in case. He was really polite and professional.

On Sunday, I look at the 5 day forecast. Sunday - Sunny, Monday - Sunny, Tuesday - Cloudy, Wednesday - Sunny, Thursday - Snow, Friday - Sunny. Thursday snow? Are you kidding me? Maybe the forecast will be wrong as it still is a few days out. Tuesday rolls around, nope, still snow for Thursday. I call the officer and am able to change my appointment to Wednesday at 10am. Wednesday morning we load up the car on the trailer and head back down to Bridgewater, get there around 9:30 and unload the car. The officer comes out around 9:50 and I drive into one of the bays on the building. I hand him my paperwork, he checks everything out and assigns me a VIN. I had to cut away a little bit of carpet on the frame near the chassis number and clean up the glue and he lets me stick on the number. The other officer there had never seen a FFR coupe before and took a few pictures. We loaded back up and were out of there by 10:30.

Blue sticker is the VIN next to the chassis number.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75201&d=1507764158

This morning, I get all my paperwork ready to bring to the RMV to get a title and registration. After calling up and getting insurance yesterday, I had my RMV-1 Form, application for VIN signed and stamped with the assigned VIN, Certificate of origin and the invoice for the kit.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75197&d=1507764104

I get to the registry about 10 minutes before it opens and there is a small line. The door opens at 9, I get a number and seconds after I sit down, I'm called. I say that I'm here to title and register a 2016 Replica vehicle. The person had never done one before and asks a few questions, then asks a co-worker and supervisor, calls on the phone etc. This goes on for about 20 minutes, then I write him a check, he hands me the plates and a registration and I'm out of there at 9:30.

I can now legally drive my car (for a little bit). I have 7 days to get a sticker and was going to do that today if the snow held off, but by the time I got home it was snowing. After 3 years, I now have a car I can legally drive, but it's December in New England and snowing out so I can't. Hopefully tomorrow or Saturday the roads will be clear and I can take the car for a ride. Then I can start the next part of the process in MA. Get a failed emissions sticker, schedule an appointment at a MAC and hopefully get emissions exempt, then go back and get a valid sticker.

Here's the front license plate mount I made:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75198&d=1507764155

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75199&d=1507764156

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75200&d=1507764157

With plates!!!!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75202&d=1507764159

You can see the snow outside.....
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75203&d=1507764160

There you have it.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

I was hoping my next post was going to be of me driving my car for the first time. Unfortunately with the recent snow storms that isn't the case. It's supposed to warm and dry up next week, so hopefully soon...

In the meantime I never really like how the oval air filter didn't fit straight due to hit hitting the body/firewall. I bought a K&N air filter (E-1963) which is 3" high. In order to get this to fit I'd need to find a way to move the filter forward and and raise the front to clear the distributor.

I bought Trans-Dapt aluminum air filter riser (TRD-2011) and modified that to fit. Ending up cutting it on an angle and grinding it down.
For the piece that will fit over the riser, I cut up the piece of metal for the battery holder that came with the kit and cut a circle in that.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75205&d=1507769921

Next was to cut out the existing air filter base. You can see the riser ground down on an angle.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75206&d=1507769922

Painted it up and drilled for the rivets
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75207&d=1507769923

Riveted it on
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75208&d=1507769924

Set on the car. Also bought piece of threaded rod and bent that in a way to use the same hole in the top of the air filter.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75209&d=1507769926

[mtwarog]

On.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75210&d=1507769927

The filter is just below the hood lip now.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75211&d=1507769928

And here's a picture looking from the inside showing it just clears the hood. Now the bump in the hood is actually needed and not just for show.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75212&d=1507769929

Will hopefully fire it up soon and take it for a drive.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Well, I'll title this post: The Good, The Bad & The Ugly.
And it's in that order too.

The Good:
Last Friday the weather and roads finally cleared up enough to take the car out for the initial inspection. I've only done a few quick trips in my back yard and in my neighbor's driveway before that. My Dad came over and I was going to follow him to the inspection station about 10 miles away. Since I haven't calibrated my speedometer yet, I was going to follow him and he was going to drive exactly the speed limit so I could see what my car was displaying. We started out and in the 30MPH zone I was reading about 34MPH and in the 45MPH zone I was reading about 51MPH. Ok, at least that gives me some idea. The car took a little bit to get used to. I could see out the front great and out of the rear view mirror. The side mirrors not so much. We got to the inspection station and waited our turn. When it was our turn the attendant walked up and says "you drive that in, I'm not getting in that". He said he'd done a bunch of FFR and other kits before. He did the safety inspection and gave me my failed emissions sticker and the number for the MAC that I needed to call for an appointment. We headed back home and stopped to get some gas for the first time, got some looks but no one said anything. After getting gas, the car had a little trouble starting and I had to blip the pedal to get it to start. Also when driving and I put in the clutch the engine almost stalls out and then recovers. I've been reading up on the EFI and think I need to make a few tweaks to smooth that out. It started up and I went on my way back home.

The Bad:
Driving home I got about 2 miles from my house and the rear end started making a lot of noise. It had always made a small amount of noise but wasn't really sure what it was supposed to sound like. But now was different, it was making noises I'm sure it wasn't supposed to make. It wasn't coming from the transmission, but the rear end. When I let off the gas a little it was worse, when accelerating it wasn't as bad. As I was hearing this I thought of 2 things:
1. Crap, I never put any oil in the rear.
2. I need to make it home.
We'll I got about 1/2 mile and my rear wheels locked up and I came to a stop. My dad who was following me was wondering what I was doing testing out the brakes like that. I got out of the car and sure enough the rear was really hot and the wheels were locked up. We couldn't push the car, so I took my dad's car home, got some wheel dollies, a jack and my truck. Jacked up my car put the dollies under the rear wheels and slowly towed it home.

The Ugly:
I took apart the back and took out the rear pumpkin and brought it to Mike Forte's. He took it apart and here's what it looked like:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75213&d=1507770213
Mike says it needs a new ring & pinion kit, complete bearing kit and a thorough cleaning. So it's currently in process of getting fixed.
I'll make sure to put oil in it this time. :)

-Matt

[mtwarog]

I picked up my new rebuilt pumpkin on Monday. Super fast turn around by Forte's, thanks Mike. Finished putting it back together on Thursday night and this time added the oil. Put the wheels on today and took it for a spin. Much better, no noises coming from the rear. Took the 3 boys for a ride, too bad it's only a two seater as it forced me to give 3 separate rides. It idles much better now and doesn't dip down like it's going to stall.
I'll see if I can get a few pictures and maybe a little video tomorrow.

Now I'm ready to call up the MAC on Monday to make an appointment to try to get emissions except and get rid of the "R" sticker. Almost there.....

-Matt

[mtwarog]

So after the test rides last Saturday, I was going to take a drive on Sunday and make sure everything was still ok, but unfortunately for me it was raining off an on. Thus no pictures or video.

Monday morning I call up the MAC (Motorist Assistance Center) to schedule an appointment for my car. I was expecting a similar delay in scheduling that I encountered with getting a VIN number assigned. I was shocked when they said they had an appointment for Tuesday (as in tomorrow) at 8am. I said yes, then started having some regrets as I looked at the forecast and saw rain for Monday night/Tuesday morning. Also I called up my dad to see if he wanted to ride with me, but he couldn't go Tuesday. The forecast for Wednesday looked clear, so I called back and easily switched the appointment to Wednesday at 8am.

Wednesday morning comes around and the weather is perfect, sunny and in the 50's. My dad hops in the passenger seat, well not exactly hops, but he's able to get in and buckled up. We drive off. The MAC center is a little over 20 miles away and I decide to take back roads there instead of the highway. As we get into the city where the MAC center is located, there's a little bit of traffic and construction, but not too much. I'm happy to say even in the stop and go traffic, the engine idled well and wasn't close to stalling. The car is pretty loud even with ear plugs in. Not piercing loud, but kind of a low drowning sound that ear plugs don't really block out. We get to the MAC center right at 8AM.

We meet with the inspector who was very friendly. I told him I have a block from a 1971 Mustang. He starts asking if I bought the whole car or not and that he didn't think I could just use the engine. He said what people did was to buy an old vehicle, have it crushed and then they could use any engine. At that point I brought out the email that I had with the head of the Mass DEP from 2014 where he wrote that I could use a block from a pre-1974 engine. I also show him my reciept for the engine from the salvage yard and a letter saying the VIN of the car the engine came from. He took copies of these and said he'd have to talk with someone. Then he had me pull the car into the bay where he took pictures of the car, VIN, engine etc. He asked my about the transmission and the rear end. I told him it was a 5 speed Tremec and a Ford with with 3.55 gears. He tried calling someone else, but that person was not available as they are in meetings in Boston on Wednesday mornings. He said he had all the information he needed, but couldn't remove the flag for emissions at this time, and he'd call me and let me know. My dad and I got back in the car and drove home. I was expecting a "yes" or a "no", but hadn't thought I'd get a maybe. I was disappointed that I didn't have an answer, but at least it wasn't a "no".

The rest of the day I wait for a phone call, but don't hear anything. Then a little after 5pm, I see that I have a message on my phone from the inspector. He says that he couldn't get a hold of the person who he needed to talk with, but was sure he'd hear back in the morning and then call me back. Thursday goes by and I don't hear anything.

On Friday, I decided that if I didn't hear back by 11am, I'd give him a call. I call him a little after 11am and am able to speak with him. He said he's had some correspondence with someone, but was still waiting to hear back about something. He mentions something about a 1971 Mustang didn't have the option for a 3.55 rear end. Then he said they did offer a 3.91 and that he's waiting on clarification. He was a little vague and I'm trying to stay calm. But in my mind, I'm saying, are you kidding me? My engine is good to go, but I'm going to get rejected because of the rear end ratio? Why did I say what gears I had in there? I just had the rear end replaced last week (from my lack of oil mishap), if I have to switch gears now....... etc.
He said he'll definitely call me back today as soon as he hears more.

Finally around 3:30pm, I get a call back and hear the words I've been waiting to hear for almost 4 years. "You're all set!" Whoo-hooo! "You just need to go back to the inspection station, then they'll scan your rejection sticker, see that they car is emissions except and give you a valid sticker". I thank him for his help and say goodbye.

So I'm 99.9% there. I still have to go back to my local inspection site, but barring any mishap with the computer I should be good to go. I'm not going to say I'm officially done until I get that sticker, but crossing my fingers, things look good. Again it is supposed to rain for the next few days, so not sure when I can make it official.

There you have it.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

It's official. Drove back to the local inspection station this morning. The inspector scanned my old "R" sticker and the machine printed out a new valid sticker. He said I was one of the faster people to come back from the MAC. When I left the previous time he said "see you in 6 months". I think he was only half joking......

As I was driving home it sprinkled a little and I thought to myself, good thing I have a coupe to keep me dry!

Now I just need to take some pictures and a video so I can officially graduate.

Thanks to everyone who's posted and helped me out along the way.
See you at the open house.

Thanks.
-Matt

[mtwarog]

Now that I took my mom for a ride in my coupe, I can officially say that I'm finished. Here are some pictures of the exterior.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71249&d=1501287190

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71250&d=1501287192

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71251&d=1501287193

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71252&d=1501287194

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71253&d=1501287195

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71254&d=1501287196

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71255&d=1501287198

[mtwarog]

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71256&d=1501287199

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71241&d=1501286961

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71242&d=1501286962

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71243&d=1501286963

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71244&d=1501286964

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71245&d=1501286965

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71246&d=1501286966

[mtwarog]

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71247&d=1501286967

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71248&d=1501286968

-Matt

[mtwarog]

I'd been looking at the weather forecast for the past week to see what it was going to be like on Saturday. No rain, sunny and warm. Perfect. My Dad came over and we left the house around 7pm. Since I only had a little over 200 miles on the car, he was a little nervous about making the almost 2 hour trip. He suggested maybe him following me in his car, but I said "hop in, we'll go together. If something happens we'll just get towed." The weather was around 60 degrees to start and the car was running well. About 45 minutes into the trip we see traffic and a sign that says left 2 lanes closed. Needless to say 3 lanes going into 1 is going to result into a backup even at 7:45AM on a Saturday. We probably lost about 10-15 minutes, but it did give time for some people to waive and take pictures as we were slowly merging into one lane.
Once we got past that it was smooth sailing for a while. The outside temperature was getting warming as well as the inside temperature and my engine temperature. With all the rain and busy nights, I haven't gotten a chance to charge up my AC, so we were just going to have to stay warm. It wasn't too bad driving down.
As for my engine temp it started creeping north of 100C and hit close to about 105C. At that point I just stayed in the slow lane and cruised along. I think what was happening is that the front license plate I put on was blocking all the air to the radiator. The fan was able to keep the temps from rising too much, but I wasn't able to take advantage of the air coming in while at speed.
We made it to Factory Five a little after 9AM. The lot was pretty full with cars and we parked in the "coupe" area. It felt good to get out and walk around. I was able to meet a few people from the forum, including Chris, John, Garry and Greg. It was nice to put a face to the names.
We checked out all the cars and put down a few hot dogs.
At noon they had the awards and was excited to hear Dave Smith call my name for winning the Best Coupe award. That was pretty cool.
After that we took a couple pictures and climbed back into the car for the ride home.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71239&d=1501286342

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71238&d=1501286019

At this point the temps were in the mid to upper 80's and knew the engine temp was going to get warmer than the ride in. On the way back it got up to almost 110C. The inside cabin temp on my rear view mirror read about a steady 106F on the way home. Fortunately the humidity was low so it wasn't unbearable. What was really tough was the resonance that the muffler produces at around 2000 RPM which happens to be the highway cruising speed. Even with ear plugs it was tough. I purchased a set of the flowmaster mufflers and while back and those are definitely in the plans.

So all in all it was a successful day. Just need to tweak 3 things:
1. Charge AC
2. Change front license plate design to get more air in and divert air to the radiator
3. Change the mufflers

Hopefully that will make driving it a little more comfortable.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Since I had the cooling issue on the trip down to the Factory Five open house, I've made a couple of modifications.

The first was to fill up the gap above the radiator so air can't flow over it. Cut up a piece of aluminum and added some bulb seal.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73804&d=1505608214

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73805&d=1505608215

Here's a picture with the hood closed
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73803&d=1505608212

The second thing I did was to make the license plate swing down when driving. I made a mount so the license plate can pivot on it. I added a counter weight on the bottom, so while the car is stopped the plate is up. As I go faster, the wind pushes the plate down and let's air into the opening.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73806&d=1505608216

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73807&d=1505608217

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73808&d=1505608218

[mtwarog]

Mounted:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73809&d=1505608219

Partially open around 10-35MPH:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73811&d=1505608221

Full open >35MPH:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73810&d=1505608220

Here you can see the bulb seal to provide a "soft landing" and keep it from banging. It also props the plate up a bit to make it easier to see. If you look close you can see the weight that I added in the form of a steel bar that the plate screws bolt through.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73812&d=1505608222

I took and mounted my front camera down toward the plate, so I could actually see the plate moving as I drive. I haven't had a really hot day to prove I don't have any more cooling issues, but so far so good.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Here's what I ended up doing for a hood prop. This is something I should have done a long time ago, but kept putting it off as I wasn't sure what to do. Thank goodness I have the hood rollers because I've had my hood slam down twice on me. The struts are strong enough to hold the hood up as long as there isn't any wind or isn't bumped into. Both times I was fortunate it slammed down right in place and didn't hang up or damage anything.

I bought the Lisle 45900 Hood Prop. It telescopes from about 18" to 46". It's a really nice piece and heavy duty. I was pleasantly surprised how solid it feels even when fully extended.

I drilled a hole through the largest section near the end and drilled a hole in the 1" square tube right behind the front right splash guard. I also screwed on a piece of rubber to the end to hold the prop from moving while driving. You can see this on the left.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73865&d=1505867940

In order for the prop to rest flush with the tube when not in use and angle optimally against the hood when in use, I needed to drill the 1" tube at an angle. I used some nylon lock nuts, some grease and some washers to allow the prop to swing.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73864&d=1505867939

The prop stays against the hood fine, but I was a little afraid it could get bumped as well. I riveted a rubber section that was left over from the coolant hose connections to the splash guard and I put the prop through this as I telescope it out.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73866&d=1505867941

Voila
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73867&d=1505867943

-Matt

[mtwarog]

One of my complaints with the car was the mufflers and the resonance at around 2000 RPM. I had bought a set of Flowmaster 30" Slimline mufflers when they were on sale about a year or two back. After the trip down to Factory Five for the open house, I decided it was time to try to fit these on the car.

I bought a few sections that I though would be needed to make the connections.
Some more 2" flanges
2.5" to 2" reducers that I didn't end up using
Flowmaster Y-250350 - one 3.5" to two 2.5" Y
Patriot Side Tube Turnouts H3817 - 3.5" exhaust turndowns

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74195&d=1506474310

Now the question was, how to make the connections. After a lot of thought, cutting, trial and error my Dad and I eventually made it work.

We ended up cutting down the Y piece quite a bit. Also, welded on just some 2" pipe to the flanges. Then we bend down the 2.5" Y to go over the 2" pipe. Then welded that together.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74196&d=1506474513

Eventually it ended up like this:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74198&d=1506474622

You can see the hanger piece that I made that we welded on.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74197&d=1506474606

Everything was repeated for the other side:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74203&d=1506474698

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74202&d=1506474675

[mtwarog]

Both done almost ready for paint.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74199&d=1506474632

All painted up and on the car.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74200&d=1506474646

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74201&d=1506474655

So they look nice, but how do they sound?

Well, they are a bit quieter, but they aren't quiet. But most importantly the resonance is almost completely gone. There's still a little bit, but no where near as bad.

Thanks to my Dad for his welding and grinding all the welds down smooth. It really came out nice.

-Matt

[mtwarog]

I'm finally all caught up with the pictures and my build. Hopefully people find it helpful.
If anyone has any questions or would like to see additional pictures let me know.

Thanks.
-Matt

[Jacob McCrea]

I appreciate you taking time to create this thread, which, beyond sharing the eye candy and great work, is better than the build manual in many respects.

[ricobrafan]

Hey Matt,
Thanks so much for updating the pictures and posting the update to the side exhaust. Now great out and drive the heck out of it! Since my car is not done...I am sure that I will have a few more writing questions. Thanks again
Chris

[mtwarog]

Thanks guys.

Yeah, it's been fun driving.
Chris, you'll be on the road in no time. Keep plugging away.

-Matt

[GoDadGo]

Love The Car & Love The Flipping Licence Plate Idea.

Now, If You Can Get The Rear To Do The Same Then All Will Be Right With The World!

[Matt K.]

Matt- Thanks for sharing, and great documentation of your Coupe build - especially the "warts" portions. Who would have thought that the windshield wouldn't fit? I certainly wouldn't have. I guess "never assume anything" is the operating mantra with these kind of projects. Hope to use yours and other builder's experiences to help guide me through a Gen 3 Coupe build sometime in the next few years. Thanks again for the detailed documentation!

Matt

[mtwarog]

You're welcome Matt.
Yeah with the windshield, I'm sure it did fit at some point, but when I mounted the body to the frame it moved a bit and closed it in just enough. There are lots of little things that pop up with the build that add to the fun. :)
Good luck.
-Matt

[mtwarog]

It's been a while since I've posted, so I figured I'd update a few things I've added. First is that I went to LED lights for the headlights and replaced all the bulbs with LED lights as well.

Bought these:
LX-LIGHT : LX-JHFCB
Dot Approved 7inch Jeep LED Headlights with White DRL/Amber Turn Signal + 4 inch LED Fog Lights with White DRL Halo Ring for Jeep Wrangler 97-2017

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77268&d=1512007033

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77269&d=1512007035

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77270&d=1512007036

For the tail lights:
4 1157-R27-T: Red
2 1157-CW27-T: Cool White

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77271&d=1512007037

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77272&d=1512007038

For the front turn signals:
4 BA9S-AHP5: Amber

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77275&d=1512007041

You can see the difference: Regular light left (passenger), LED light right (driver's side)
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77274&d=1512007040

-Matt

[mtwarog]

Also added some front mud flaps. Without them, sand and dirt kept getting kicked up and made a mess.

Bought some Install Bay 89-00-9031 ABS Plastic 12 X 12 X 1/8-Inch cut them to fit:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113767&d=1567646639

You can see the dirt on the flaps the would have been on the paint and/or side pipes
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113768&d=1567646650

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113769&d=1567646671


Lastly, installed an amp for the stereo up in the footbox. Hard to see from the picture, but it is up and to the left of the clutch pedal. I'm able to get access to it from the removable cover I added to the top of the footbox. It just barely fit.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113772&d=1567646705

-Matt