License Plate Light mounting

[ThickCobra]

I have read various threads on getting the license plate to clear the trunk handle, including notching the plate, running a hole in the plate or notching the light cover to allow the plate to slide up into the cover. All good ideas. I went with notching the light cover but the plate is still too close to the trunk handle base. Maybe plate heights vary, but in Wisconsin my measures 6 1/16" tall. If I move the plate light mount a bit higher on the trunk it will work but I'm above the ridge on the trunk boss. Has anyone encountered this and built up the ridge by filling in the gap with HSRF during body work? Or is this a bad idea?

I hope I've described it properly.

Also, I find the trunk lock handle pre-drilled holes to be slightly off center. Curious whether others have found this.

[edwardb]

Pretty sure 6-inch height for U.S. license plates is standard. My Michigan one is just over 6-inches as well. For the times I've done the mod you've described, I still had to put a small notch in the plate to get it just high enough to clear the handle at the bottom. The notch is about 1/8-inch and completely inside the light fixture. If you're not painted yet, it would be easy enough to raise the fixture slightly and feather it in when doing the body work. That would work too.

Yes, I've also noticed things can be a bit off center at the back. Between the holes for the fixture, the pad for the fixture, the trunk handle hole, and the hole for the trunk latch rod, it can be interesting. Before paint is the time to get that all sorted out. If you're doing stripes, they will need to match wherever things end up.

[ThickCobra]

Pretty sure 6-inch height for U.S. license plates is standard. My Michigan one is just over 6-inches as well. For the times I've done the mod you've described, I still had to put a small notch in the plate to get it just high enough to clear the handle at the bottom. The notch is about 1/8-inch and completely inside the light fixture. If you're not painted yet, it would be easy enough to raise the fixture slightly and feather it in when doing the body work. That would work too.

Yes, I've also noticed things can be a bit off center at the back. Between the holes for the fixture, the pad for the fixture, the trunk handle hole, and the hole for the trunk latch rod, it can be interesting. Before paint is the time to get that all sorted out. If you're doing stripes, they will need to match wherever things end up.

Thanks for the response as I want to keep moving on assembly and don't want to get too hung up on things easily addressed. I will try notching the plate hidden by the light cover to minimize and body feathering. I will also reposition the trunk latch and rod as no body work nor painting is done yet.

[boat737]

See my posts #8 and 23 in this thread. This is what I'm doing, which sounds like what you are proposing. Body work won't happen for a few more months, but I'm pretty sure it will all work out. http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?24497-Rear-License-Plate