Things I would check frequently

[wrp]

Every Drive


Headlights, brake lights, turn signals
Oil
Water
Air in Tires
entire steering shaft, knuckles set screws etc
brake caliper mounting bolts
Hydraulic fluid (Clutch and Brakes)
Visual on control arms and IFS


Monthly:


Torque on calipers, front and rear
Lug nuts
Torque on shocks
Tire wear
Driveshaft to diff bolts
4 link bolts
Control Arms and IFS for tightness


What am I missing?

[NAZ]

Wow, I'm exhausted just reading that list. As a pilot, I've never seen a pre-flight inspection that invasive on any aircraft I've flown. But if you feel better doing all those checks let me give you something that will make it much easier when it comes time to check fasteners.

Use torque stripe on the fasteners and you'll never have to put a wrench on them to make sure they're tight. Torque stripe or sometimes called tamper paint or vibration detection paint, is a thick quick drying lacquer that you dab on fasteners and if they come loose it will crack. Now all you have to do is a quick visual inspection of the torque stripe. Look at the attached photo of a brake caliper nut with torque stripe dabbed across the nut, the washer, and the base material. If the nut moves at all you'll see the torque stripe crack well before the nut comes completely loose. You can get this stuff through many suppliers but I usually get mine from McMaster-Carr. Check out their part number 1476T615 for an example.

7089270893

[GoDadGo]

Are You Planning On Racing It?

Just do the basics as like I do on my motorcycle and you should be fine.
I check my lights, brakes, tire pressure, oil, coolant before every ride.
The daily driver, well tire pressure once a week when I check my oil.

Steve

[wareaglescott]

That does seem a little excessive but if that is your thing go for it. Better safe than sorry.
Just curious do you check these items on your daily driver every drive? For example the steering shaft, why do you feel it needs checking so often? Do you check it every time on your daily driver? What is the difference?

[Ray]

Here is my yearly list. And what your doing pre-drive is a great idea.

Drive Line
□ Radiator hose’s - squeeze lower - checking for softness
□ Fan blades - look for cracks
□ Transmission fluid
□ Clutch cable - open cover and check end of cable - it tends to break at the lower end of the cable
(also check where cable leaves engine compartment that it's well away from exhaust!)
□ Check the 2 bolts for the shifter handle (on the T5 transmission)
□ Clutch inspection cover to have a look at the clutch disk
□ Check under side of side exhaust pipes where rear bracket welds to the side exhaust for cracks
□ Driveshaft Bolts (Grease)
□ Header Bolts, Exhaust System
□ Belt(s)/Pulleys or replace them every 70,000 miles
□ EFI, Clean out the Idle solenoid on side of throttle body/Carb’ed check-replace fuel filter(s)
□ Rear end fluid level
□ Change Oil
□ Coolant Level / Condition
□ Fuel Lines
□ Engine / Transmission Mounts
Suspension / Brakes / Steering
□ Clean and repack wheel bearings (replace them at 100,000 miles)
□ Brake fluid - flush and replace at 100,000 miles - or not a bad idea after hard day at open track event!
□ Inspect brake flex hose for rubbing on shocks and that plate you attached to the frame is still tight
□ Look closely at rear flexible brake hose - ends to be sure it's not been stretched
□ E-Brake cables that "slide" under the frame pipe - look for wear
Check the short e-brake cable
□ U joints for wear - move up/down side to side - there should not be any movement in the joint
□ Tie rod ends & ball joints (Grease)
□ A-Arms (Grease)
□ Rear Control Arms (Grease)
□ Ride Height (in case of sagging) = 3.75F, 4.25R
□ Steering Rack (Grease ball joints)
□ Shocks (ride height torque = 55 max
□ Brakes pads and/or shoes
□ Calipers
□ Brake Lines
□ Steering Linkage (all fasteners)
□ 3-Link Mounts (Grease) large = 120 max, smaller = 85 max
Other
□ Battery mounts - check bolts make sure they are tight!
□ Wire connectors, all you can reach
□ Seat bolts/nuts
□ Seat Belts
□ Fire Extinguisher
□ Body Mounts
□ Bumper Mounts
□ Wind Wings / Visor mounts
□ Light Bulbs
□ Tire Pressure _____F, _____R
□ Lug Nuts Torque = 85max
□ Fuel Filler
□ Door Latches
□ Mirrors
□ License Plate Mount
 

Torque Specs according to FFR Build School at Mott Community College hand out material and documents
Front suspension
Upper control Arms adjustment bolts 60
Upper control Arms mounting bolts 100
Bracket (Spindle) 70
Shock (bottom) 70
LCA 110-150
Shock Bracket (Lower Arm) 55-70
Ball Joint (upper) 80-120
Ball Joint (lower) 80-120
Rear Suspension
Upper control Arm to axle 70-100
Upper control Arm to frame 80-105
Lower Control Arm to axle bracket 70-100
Lower Control Arm to frame 80-105
Lower Control Arm Bracket to axle 90
Shock Bracket, Lower 55-70
Shock, Top 25-30
Shock bottom 45-60
Quad Shock bracket to frame 56-70
Quad Shock to bracket 56-70
Quad shock to axle 56-70
Rear Suspension (3-Link)
Pan hard Bar 250
Upper frame mount 90
Rear Suspension (IRS)
Rear Axle nut 250
Shock (upper/lower) 70
Spindle attachment 100
Driveshaft to center section 70-95
Steering Rack/Shaft
Steering Rack Bolts 30-40
Tie Rod Ends 25-35
Pillow blocks 20
Exhaust
Straight Pipe 35
Engine/Transmission
Transmission Mounts (Tranny to mount) 25-35
Transmission mount (Mount to frame) 25-35
Engine mount (Engine to mount) 35-60
Engine mount (Mount to frame) 50-105
Driveshaft bolts 70-95
Lights/ Trim accessories
Windshield 90
Quick Jacks 60
Body Bolts 20
Miscellaneous
Wheel lug nuts 80-105
Pedal box (front plate upper) 35
Pedal box (Frame down tube) 10

[wrp]

That does seem a little excessive but if that is your thing go for it. Better safe than sorry. Just curious do you check these items on your daily driver every drive? For example the steering shaft, why do you feel it needs checking so often? Do you check it every time on your daily driver? What is the difference?

Thanks Ray, your list is a good teaching point. For me, I look at the manual and it says double check this and double check that. Much of the stuff I have never done before lacks the experience many of you guys have in judging what is right or wrong. I have had a steering linkage failure (broke a right front lower control arm), brake caliper failure, worn out a tire, accelerator pedal failure, and an accelerator cable failure thus far. I guess it is more to get a confidence factor in the car and the work I have done guys, I'll probably back off on the frequency as my confidence grows. All the failures were my fault for not following through and ensuring I had things done right. These were things I assumed I did right but didn't.The purpose of the checks was to make sure that what I did was right before I get it up to speed.

[Ray]

Every Drive

[LIST=1]
Headlights, brake lights, turn signals
Oil
Water
Air in Tires


I check these before every drive (and all but the water before I head out on the bike.)

If you want to save yourself some time, once you get things torqued to spec, put a stripe of paint from the nut/bolt to the surrounding area. That way you can tell by a quick glance if the bolt, nut etc. has moved since you last checked.

Ray

[wrp]

Got you. I guess what I suggested seems a little overboard. Having owned a couple of performance cars recently I have come to be suspicious of the metallurgy in addition to the engineering design work. Lots of lamenting cheap Chinese stuff on here and that just puts a hole in my confidence interval. Checking the torque frankly was too literal. I do try to check it now and again but imagine my real concern is to ensure the bolts are at least tighter than my fingers and that the underlying structure, i.e. threads are in tact. I have had head bolt threads crumble when torqued to spec. I have broken torqued bolts and threads with finger tight checks. Tape striping the bolts is a great idea and one of the best reasons to do it is that if gives you a visible reminder that you have checked something. My steering failure was due to a misplaced lock nut on the allen headed lock in the knuckle at the firewall. The user manual clearly states that a shorter flush lock is required and use of the locking nut is not correct. However, it did not jump out to me until I was repairing the damage loss of steering caused. I am pretty confident in my steering gear now after checking it before every drive for nearly a year. I still worry about the fit of the last knuckle to the pivot arm on the rack. Frankly, the failure scared the **** out of me.

One of the things I did when I reassembled the steering gear was post detailed pictures and asked for you guy's assistance/review. Learned a lot from that. So at least we started a conversation.

[Brave Salmon]

Outstanding list. If a moderator is reading, this should be a STICKY and FFRS should make it an appendix to the manual for future builders

[SerpantFL]

Agree with Brave Salmon, out to be a sticky with asterisks.
Re: thread #8. I have not begun a build yet, though I wonder how much different in cost is good quality SS hardware as opposed to cheap imported junk?
Especially on critical bits such as suspension, steering, clutch, etc. I would figure that in and may enquire of FF to see is they could option in the ordering of stainless when the kit is ordered.
Thread #1 was a basic pre ride checklist on my HD 1600cc.

[JimLev]

When I lived in MA I'd get my hardware from Bolt Depot. Call or order on line in the morning and drive over in the afternoon to pick it up. They do ship. Great prices on the larger quantities. SAE or metric.
https://www.boltdepot.com/Catalog.aspx

One thing with stainless, a little too much torque and you'll gall the threads.

[edwardb]

Agree with Brave Salmon, out to be a sticky with asterisks.
Re: thread #8. I have not begun a build yet, though I wonder how much different in cost is good quality SS hardware as opposed to cheap imported junk?
Especially on critical bits such as suspension, steering, clutch, etc. I would figure that in and may enquire of FF to see is they could option in the ordering of stainless when the kit is ordered.
Thread #1 was a basic pre ride checklist on my HD 1600cc.

I wouldn't characterize the hardware supplied in the kits as cheap imported junk, or that SS hardware throughout is necessarily desirable. Especially for the various suspension and high stress bolts, many are somewhat specialized (e.g. hardened, large diameter, long length, flange heads, metric in some cases, etc.) and acceptable SS replacements wouldn't be easy or inexpensive to find. Generally available SS hardware is not as strong as carbon steel. There are companies that can provide very high strength SS. But is it worth it, when typical grade 8 carbon steel (and the equivalent metric grades) is adequate? For some of the more garden variety fastening needs in the build, I'm finding that SS bolts are provided quite a bit in the Gen 3 Coupe kit. Where I want to make changes, for whatever reason, I do find my local Ace Hardware has a good variety of hardware. All from Hilman, which seems to be a cut above what's at Home Depot/Lowes. What I can't find there, I usually can find at McMaster. Also seems good quality and the parts are always marked with country of origin.

As already mentioned, if you do use SS hardware, be very careful to always use anti-seize. When it galls (which it will do...) nearly impossible to get apart without destroying. Been there done that, more than I want to admit.

[NAZ]

Just want to echo what edwardb stated above -- he's right on point with everything stated. High strength fasteners are made from carbon steel and are much stronger than stainless steel. Typically, SS is not a good choice for critical components where strength and durability are required. Stainless steel is hard to work with, easily galls (sometimes even with anti-seize), and a real PITA to extract when they break or weld themselves into place.

There are applications where SS fasteners are the best choice but the list is short. They look cool and I use them in many areas that are not critical but always with anti-seize or some other lubricant. Be very careful substituting fasteners as you can set yourself up for failure if you choose wrong.