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View Full Version : Drilling a hole in my roll bar?



Kcon
07-09-2017, 03:49 PM
I was about to drill the upper hole to connect the two roll bar pieces together when i decided there must be a better way. Does anybody know about the tangent kits? Do they work or is there another way? Thanks..Kyle

edwardb
07-09-2017, 03:59 PM
Tangent kits work great. I've used them for both the 1-1/2 inch Mk4 bar and the early 2 inch bars. They offer both sizes. Just follow the directions when installing.

Jeff Kleiner
07-09-2017, 05:10 PM
They work well. The first time an owner sent me a set to use on a build I expected the worst and was pleasantly surprised when it all went together without any issues!

Jeff

Kcon
07-09-2017, 05:26 PM
Awesome! thanks, Kyle

JRL16
07-10-2017, 02:41 AM
They're easy to install and work very well. Just be careful screwing the support bar into the hoop to not over tighten it and chip your chrome off the roll bar.

Bobby Doug
07-10-2017, 02:50 AM
I was about to drill the upper hole to connect the two roll bar pieces together when i decided there must be a better way. Does anybody know about the tangent kits? Do they work or is there another way? Thanks..Kyle
X? on the Tangent connectors. As previously mentioned just follow the instructions.

Mark_M
07-12-2017, 10:06 PM
Just reading through the posts and it is awesome running across tidbits like this for things that you wondered about but never thought to ask.

AC Bill
07-12-2017, 10:44 PM
If, God forbid..the roll bar ever had to be used for it's intended purpose, do you worry about the Tangent device failing, and the 3rd leg pulling away from the hoop?

CDXXVII
07-12-2017, 11:28 PM
If, God forbid..the roll bar ever had to be used for it's intended purpose, do you worry about the Tangent device failing, and the 3rd leg pulling away from the hoop?

i installed the Tangent kit. Great design and I don't doubt it's strength. Pretty sure a race track inspector will not accept it though but then again, I'm not racing.

This is from their website:

The resulting joint is extremely strong and gives no visual clues as to how the attachment is made. The remaining bolts supplied by FFR are then used to attach the lower portion of the tube to the chassis below the body line. Since the kit requires no welding, it is safe to use on painted, powder coated or chromed roll bar sets. It is demountable at all times and reinstallation of bars is no problem. The wedge-lock is designed to grip tighter as the force to remove it increases. Tested to 20 tons of pressure without moving. A simple and strong solution to the Frankenstein through bolts. If nothing else, your Roadster is certainly worth this small upgrade. Good luck with your build! Don

Bobby Doug
07-13-2017, 03:58 AM
If, God forbid..the roll bar ever had to be used for it's intended purpose, do you worry about the Tangent device failing, and the 3rd leg pulling away from the hoop?

I think that if you are in a situation where the Tangent connector would fail due to the extreme force exerted on it, it's failure would be the least of your problems.

KDubU
07-13-2017, 06:21 AM
I personally like the franken bolt through the rollbar. It just looks right somehow.

Mountain-Metalworks
07-13-2017, 07:41 AM
I've been email chatting with Eric at Tangent all this week. He's currently out of stock but getting another set cut, hopefully by the end of July. He's been great to deal with and extremely responsive.

-TJ

rich grsc
07-13-2017, 08:14 AM
I personally like the franken bolt through the rollbar. It just looks right somehow.
My feelings as well. Also if you remove you bars, how will you re-align the the Target mount so the lower bolt is in the same position?

edwardb
07-13-2017, 09:28 AM
My feelings as well. Also if you remove you bars, how will you re-align the the Target mount so the lower bolt is in the same position?

Once installed and tightened, the inserts in both the roll bar and the third leg don't come out. (trust me...) The two are connected by a piece of threaded rod. Once installed, the location is fixed and repeatable. Just spin the third leg into place. It stops at the same place every time. No worries to re-align.

JIMOCO
07-13-2017, 09:51 AM
Can someone post an internet link to the Tangent supplier and part?

rich grsc
07-13-2017, 09:58 AM
Once installed and tightened, the inserts in both the roll bar and the third leg don't come out. (trust me...) The two are connected by a piece of threaded rod. Once installed, the location is fixed and repeatable. Just spin the third leg into place. It stops at the same place every time. No worries to re-align.
Thanks, that was the part I didnt understand.

edwardb
07-13-2017, 10:14 AM
Can someone post an internet link to the Tangent supplier and part?

http://tangentkits.com/Roll_Bar_Kits.php.

Google is your friend. :o

JIMOCO
07-14-2017, 01:21 PM
edwardb, thanks for the link. I greatly appreciate it. I am aware of the benefits of google. I find it safer to get the link from someone familiar with the site than to trust that I have found the correct location using google.

Derald Rice
07-14-2017, 06:41 PM
My feelings as well. Also if you remove you bars, how will you re-align the the Target mount so the lower bolt is in the same position?

I asked Don tangent, the very same question last January when I sent my bar out for chrome plating. To make sure the parts for the connector were not lost at the chromer, I completely removed the tangent parts.

Here is his answer........

Hey, Derald. In all these years I have not had anyone that couldn't overcome the indexing issue. The long 3/8x16 means that 1 turn is 1/16" of an inch, so the most you'd have is 1/2 turn (1/32 of an inch) to makeup, I made the all -thread 5" long for that reason, to have a little tension/stretch. And like you allowed, worst case, a thin shim under one or the other coupling nut should finalize things if you don't get that lucky. Thanks for being a customer and let me know how it works out. All the best, Don

And it really did go back together just fine, with no shims , no problems.

smithbks
07-17-2017, 06:57 AM
I like the frankenstein bolt too, but I am intrigued by the tangent. At the point I had to drill the hole I was pretty sure I would screw everything up and the bit would slip or go in at an angle. Through a lot of care and preparation (and squeezing my cheeks really tight) I got it done! But if I had an option to not do it, I might have chosen the tangent. One of the things I love about these cars is that there are not any two exactly alike out there.