Motor Looks Good But Doesn't Fit

[dougski]

I tried to install the motor with standard FFR motor mounts shown and it does not quite fit. The motor is a 351W Dart which I am guessing is a bit wider than the mounts were made for. One suggestion was to to with solid motor mounts which I have done I am just not sure I like the idea of no vibration mounting. Any suggestions?

The PS mount is where it should be but the DS mount does not drop in as shown below. Seems only off by a 1/4" or so.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69901&d=1499376686

Here is a picture of the solid motor mount which works but I have vibration concerns.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69904&d=1499376951

Here is a picture of the motor installed with the solid motor mounts. I am just about done with the mechanical linkage.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69900&d=1499376686

[edwardb]

No pictures posted, but it should go in. The DART block is the same dimensions as a Ford block. By standard FFR motor mounts you mean the Energy Suspension ones? It's common with the DART block that there's an extra rib in the block motor mount area that interferes with the mounts. Makes the mounts difficult or even impossible to bolt on correctly. Did you happen to notice that? The usual fix is to notch the Energy Suspension mounts so they clear. Some grind the rib on the DART block, but I don't recommend that.

When you drop the motor in, leave the mounts loose. It's very common even then to have to rock it back and forth, pry on it, swing it back and forth a bit at the transmission end, whatever, and it will eventually drop in. Usually when you least expect it. :p Then tighten all the bolts. I don't think you have to switch to different motor mounts.

[Gordon Levy]

This is a chronic issue especially using the Dart or like block. There is a set of solid lowering engine mounts I run on all my builds and it cures all the fitment issues including the sidepipes not fit in the right positions.

[dougski]

Gordon, thanks for the reply. I was worried about engine vibration with the solid mounts but feel better now that I know you use them on all your builds.

Paul, I see the pictures. I initially tried using Photobucket but did not seem to work like in the past so I attempted to use the Forum Gallery. The mounts are energy suspension. I actually thought about grinding the rib that you are talking about but decided against it. Notching the mounts makes sense.

[Gordon Levy]

Vibration is not an issue. Let me know if you need some.

[dougski]

Hmmm, maybe the photos did not show because I had the album defined as private. Let me know if this works.

The PS mount is where it should be but the DS mount does not drop in as shown below. Seems only off by a 1/4" or so.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69911&d=1499384732

Here is a picture of the solid motor mount which works but I have vibration concerns.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69910&d=1499384732

Here is a picture of the motor installed with the solid motor mounts. I am just about done with the mechanical linkage.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69909&d=1499384732

[awd-turbo]

You had the same issue as me... It fits... I have a 351w stroked to 427.. sorry I am on mobile, but I have a threat about this. Search my history. What I ended up doing was notching the engine mount because it didn't fit fluch w my block. A little off not much. Prob didn't need to notch it. But I did.... I lowered it into place and the long screws just barely fit in the slots. Passenger first. Then driver side.... Once that was in the little notches were off of alignment to the slots. So I put a breaker bar between the mount and the block on the passenger side... I stood on it it.. it is important to know the passenger side was all lined up and looked good. But I did it on that side first. That helped settle the block a little more. Then I went to the driver side and did the same thing... And Bam... It fell right into place.

[awd-turbo]

Also make sure your engine mount screws are loose.. tighten them when it is in place...

[David Hodgkins]

Dougski, I see the photos just fine.

Who did the engine turning? It looks great! How did you get it to radius like that?

:)

[dougski]

You had the same issue as me... It fits... I have a 351w stroked to 427.. sorry I am on mobile, but I have a threat about this. Search my history. What I ended up doing was notching the engine mount because it didn't fit fluch w my block. A little off not much. Prob didn't need to notch it. But I did.... I lowered it into place and the long screws just barely fit in the slots. Passenger first. Then driver side.... Once that was in the little notches were off of alignment to the slots. So I put a breaker bar between the mount and the block on the passenger side... I stood on it it.. it is important to know the passenger side was all lined up and looked good. But I did it on that side first. That helped settle the block a little more. Then I went to the driver side and did the same thing... And Bam... It fell right into place.

Thanks awd-turbo. That is the second mention for notching the mounts. I will work a bit harder at it next time around. Doug

[dougski]

Dougski, I see the photos just fine.

Who did the engine turning? It looks great! How did you get it to radius like that?

:)

Thanks David, odd that Paul could not see them as mentioned in the second post. You are my inspiration for the engine turning. I read your thread several times and I saw your car at the Huntington Beach car show last year. I did the engine turning on a CNC router table which was cheating a bit but it allowed me to produce the radius pattern based on an autocad drawing that I came up with. Doug

[edwardb]

Thanks David, odd that Paul could not see them as mentioned in the second post. You are my inspiration for the engine turning. I read your thread several times and I saw your car at the Huntington Beach car show last year. I did the engine turning on a CNC router table which was cheating a bit but it allowed me to produce the radius pattern based on an autocad drawing that I came up with. Doug

I can see them in the second post, but not in the first. I suspect that's the one David is talking about as well. Except maybe he has super mod powers. :o

[BobCarter]

Dougski- I too fought installation of a 351W. Same issues you are facing. But, it will eventually "drop in " as edwardb said, just takes a fair amount of strong arming with a ply bar and fiddling. As a watch out for- choose your headwrs carefully. The guidance I received pointed me to the use of shorty swap headers. Even using these I had to invade some of the drivers footbox. Grrr
Hope you will be going with a manual trans. My big feet dictated an auto trans for adequate left foot space. Squeezing an auto trans in with a 351W is a BIG job and requires mucho work.

[JRL16]

I had a difficult time getting my motor in also. The Dart blocks of require relief slots in the motor mounts for the reinforcement ribs on the block. I did all that and still mine wouldn't go. Loosened up all the mounts and it finally dropped in after some persuasion. After it was all tightened up I noticed the tab on the mount was at the top of the slot on both sides. Got it to go down about 1/4 inch on both sides with more persuasion. That being said, there was no way my FFR sidepipes brackets would clear the bottom of the body. Gas-n pipes brackets are much more adjustable so had to get those. Also could not do any fitting of the hood till I cut the hood scoop hole. I wonder if FFR's fixture to hold the motor mount steel to the 4 inch tube might have a little play in it. Good luck with your build but be ready for some minor complications down the road with the engine setting higher than most. It also meant the spacer under the trans was rather thick to get the tight pinion angle which meant I lost the clearance for the cup holders. Sheesh! One thing affects another down the road.

[KDubU]

Gorgeous engine!

[CraigS]

.... I wonder if FFR's fixture to hold the motor mount steel to the 4 inch tube might have a little play in it....
I am beginning to think the same thing. The 3 I have helped w/ all took some persuasion to get the nub into it's hole in the frame mount. And once in, there is no play available to move the engine around to help w/ side pipe/body clearance. I wish FFR would redo their mount design as this is getting to be way too common a problem.

[Gordon Levy]

The mark IV frame mounts are higher than the 1 and 2. They did this to fit the mod motors. The solid lower mounts cured all the fitment woes. I have used them in 25-30 cars now with no issues.

[dougski]

Gorgeous engine!

Thanks everyone for the information and the compliments. Glad to know it was not me doing something wrong. The engine is Gordon's work of art. I just get to be the lucky one to show it off! Doug