Aluminum panel trimming question

[boat737]

Now that I've had the body on, and off, I need to trim the trunk side panels and the lower rear edge of the trunk floor. I figure I'll need to trim up to 1/4 inch or so in the majority of places, and at least 1/8 inch others. Since the panels are already installed on the car, what is the best method to trim those aluminum panels?

The four methods I've used in bare, uninstalled aluminum, so far are a saber saw, hand saw, sanding drum, and shears (then a file for most cuts). (I've used a band saw a lot, but that's obviously out of the question.) All four have big disadvantages and limitations on the installed panels.

So, how do you all trim those panels?

Also, what is the consensus on how much of a gap to leave between the aluminum edge and the body mold line? (for the bulb seal)

[Avalanche325]

I didn't have to trim those at all. Are you sure you need to?

[srobinsonx2]

I used a die grinder with a sanding disc. I probably used 36 grit. Marked what i needed to remove and just ground away until I got to the line. May not be the most elegant but didnt take very long. I also used a polishing pad (scotch brite type material) to smooth the aluminum so I wouldnt cut myself.

FYI I think I removed small amounts on mine. What you listed sounds about right.

[2FAST4U]

Shouldn't have to trim any of the supplied panels.

[PeteH]

On a 289, I had to trim only the rear trunk floor lip, about 1/4" for the majority of the center, and a little more where the body sweeps in near the ends if I remember correctly. I used tin snips, a flapper wheel on a grinder, and filed any flash off. The trim covers it so wasn't worried about a perfectly clean edge. I think I had about 1/4"-3/8" gap that the bulb seal fills. I could not move the body far enough forward to get the rear roll to slide over the rear bulkhead carpeting before trimming the aluminum trunk floor lip. I also had to trim about 1/8" off the rear cowl roll, and front cowl roll in center also.

[Feen]

I didnt trim any of those panels. But after discussing with Jeff K, it would have made the body install a little easier and given some wiggle room if I had. So you might be better off trimming as you have planned to do, even if the body does go on without doing so. To answer your question, I'd probably do shears or grinder..

[CraigS]

Shears. Way to long cuts to be either grinding it down or using a cutoff wheel. All the aluminum dust-ugh.

[initiator]

Nibbler?

[Duke66]

I trimmed mine with shears. Worked just fine.
And as others have previously stated I had to trim front and rear rolls of cockpit as well.

[RoadRacer]

Shears. Way to long cuts to be either grinding it down or using a cutoff wheel. All the aluminum dust-ugh.

Shears, for sure. Much cleaner and more accurate cut.

[j.miller]

I'm with the shear group....but I cheat, I have electric...da Bat

[Jeff Kleiner]

None of that high falutin' electric stuff for me just good ol' manual shears grasped with my carpal tunnel and tendonitis afflicted mitts (hmmm, reckon that's somehow related?).

And yes, it actually is often necessary to trim back the aluminum along the rearmost trunk floor lip as well as the round over and vertical portion of the trunk sides. The bulb seal is very forgiving if your cuts get a little erratic.

Jeff

[boat737]

Thank you very much, all. As it sits now, the body is touching/riding on those panels in numerous spots, with no room for the bulb seal, so I'll need to trim for sure. Sounds like I need 1/4 inch gap for the rubber seal, so that's what I'll shoot for.

Copy that on the cockpit rear roll contacting the rear bulkhead (and in my case, the front roll on the dash as well.) Right now it's wedged in pretty snug, so I be relieving both the front and rear roll a tad befor the body goes back on for final shake down and road testing.

Then Bat is going to get the car and do his magic later this year and finish it off perfectly. (I hope I get the 'shop car' as a loaner.)

[AC Bill]

Initially trim the high points that are currently touching the body first, then you can see how far down it drops, then mark other areas still needed trimming. I know it means taking the body on and off, but it could make a big difference on how door, trunk etc, fit later.

[R Thomas]

At the Build School we were told to take a sharpie and hold it against the body while tracing on the aluminum BEFORE removing the body. Then cutting to the marking will give about 3/16" clearance for the bulb seal. BTW anyone considering building and not sure you can do it, the Build School is a great eye opener and doesn't cost more than any other weekend trip. Plus you get to hang out with guys that have assembled lots of cars and they will save you headaches. Basically anything your not sure about, like say flaring brake lines can be a hands on experience. And yes there are some sub assemblies put together, but they go from kit as delivered to a running car in three days.

[CraigS]

Sorry I am a little late but, these are the greatest style shears ever.
http://www.stanleytools.com/en-us/products/hand-tools/cutting-tools/snips/fatmax-offset-right-aviation-snip/fmht73560
http://www.stanleytools.com/en-us/products/hand-tools/cutting-tools/snips/fatmax-offset-left-aviation-snip/fmht73559
Yes you need a left and a right but now you can cut a curve heading off to the right which is dang near impossible w/ regular shears. Maybe the best thing about these is that, due to the angle of the grips, your hand isn't getting cut by the raw edge of the aluminum.

[edwardb]

I would just echo what a couple have said -- mark the high points with no bulb seal, trim those, and check the fit with the body and bulb seal. It may take several times to get it optimal. Also check the fit of the trunk lid. That's where the rearmost trunk floor lip can be an issue. All these responses about tools makes me a bit nervous. There have been a couple threads over the years where guys got a little too aggressive. Ended up with gaps and no need for that. Easier to take a little more off than put it back. :o

I haven't had to do wholesale trimming on my builds. Just a little here and there.

[boat737]

Again thanks. The high/excessive spots on the panels are not that bad, just enough to be barely touching the body in spots, mostly the trunk floor lip, and both side panels at about the most upper rearward curves. I have marked back 3/8 inch from the inner body in all spots, but after the comments above, It looks like half that ought to be about right, eh? (3/16 inch ?)

On a related, but totally opposite problem, there are some areas on the top side panels that have way too much gap, over 1/2 inch. (3/4 inch even). Is there a fix or mod to close up that gap? Since it's up and out of sight, I wasn't too worried about it, but if there is a fix, now is the time. I suppose a 1 or 2 inch strip of .040 aluminum riveted along the top would do. That may be a lot of work for a non problem though.

[edwardb]

On a related, but totally opposite problem, there are some areas on the top side panels that have way too much gap, over 1/2 inch. (3/4 inch even). Is there a fix or mod to close up that gap? Since it's up and out of sight, I wasn't too worried about it, but if there is a fix, now is the time. I suppose a 1 or 2 inch strip of .040 aluminum riveted along the top would do. That may be a lot of work for a non problem though.

Can you be more specific about the location? There is a gap between the body and frame in the front side of the rear wheel wells. Many including me make a strip to fill that gap. If nothing is done basically the carpet is the only thing sealing into the cockpit at that location. But that doesn't sound like what you're describing.

[boat737]

Can you be more specific about the location? There is a gap between the body and frame in the front side of the rear wheel wells. Many including me make a strip to fill that gap. If nothing is done basically the carpet is the only thing sealing into the cockpit at that location. But that doesn't sound like what you're describing.

The area I'm talking about is along the top of the side panels in the trunk area, generally around and rearward of the frame bow (that the MK4 trunk hinge sits on). Seem to be more of a gap than just the bulb seal can fill. I didn't try to put any bulb seal on that area when the body was on, I was just eye-balling it. It looks like it would take a bigger bulb seal to fill the gap.

I did see your panels that you made for the area between the door and rear wheel on your build threads. A good solution that once again I was going to steal from you.

[edwardb]

The area I'm talking about is along the top of the side panels in the trunk area, generally around and rearward of the frame bow (that the MK4 trunk hinge sits on). Seem to be more of a gap than just the bulb seal can fill. I didn't try to put any bulb seal on that area when the body was on, I was just eye-balling it. It looks like it would take a bigger bulb seal to fill the gap.

I did see your panels that you made for the area between the door and rear wheel on your build threads. A good solution that once again I was going to steal from you.

As designed the trunk sides are in the highest point of the body fender area. They can be bent in a little to hit the body at a lower point. That's what I've done and that got things closed with the provided bulb seal. If still won't seal, could be an indication the body isn't quite down all the way.

No problem borrowing the fill panels for the rear wheel well. I borrowed the idea myself from another build thread early on. A forum vendor (I think Dark Water Customs?) used to sell those. But that was a while ago plus they're super easy to make.

[boat737]

As designed the trunk sides are in the highest point of the body fender area. They can be bent in a little to hit the body at a lower point. That's what I've done and that got things closed with the provided bulb seal. If still won't seal, could be an indication the body isn't quite down all the way.

Thanks Paul. I'm pretty certain the body is down all the way. It's all the way down on the rear cockpit bulkhead, the quick jack bolts line up (I have to lift the back end up a bit), the rear wheels are about an inch+ of the edge of the wheel well outer lip, the trunk lid seems to fit very well, forward trunk lip opening is about on the frame bow. Just about everything says it's about where it should be, except those side panels. Next time the body goes on, I'll check to see if bending them in a tad will mate better with the body inner mold line, an maybe close that gap.

I'll check Dark Water Customs for those panels. I don't mind doing my part to keep all the vendors in business.

BTW. I'm doing the "single man body install/removal technique" with the ceiling hangars. Another stolen idea I got from you. (Only difference I do, is I run a 2x4 with eye rings to attach my rope hooks. The 2x4's sit nicely in the hood and trunk openings. Seems to distribute the weight more to my liking.) I also have an adjustable tube like a shower curtain rod, that I wedge between the lower rear door areas to spread the body out as well. It's worked good once on and once off so far.

[boat737]

One more thing... I just check Amazon for electric snips. (Thanks Bat). Down right cheap. For $40 I may just give that a try. What could go wrong?

[edwardb]

BTW. I'm doing the "single man body install/removal technique" with the ceiling hangars. Another stolen idea I got from you. (Only difference I do, is I run a 2x4 with eye rings to attach my rope hooks. The 2x4's sit nicely in the hood and trunk openings. Seems to distribute the weight more to my liking.) I also have an adjustable tube like a shower curtain rod, that I wedge between the lower rear door areas to spread the body out as well. It's worked good once on and once off so far.

Nice. That's a good idea using the 2x4's in the hood and trunk openings.