Wheels and tires for the track

[lahrs37]

I have a Mk4 with the 2015 IRS. I am looking for a dedicated wheel and tire set up for track days - not autocross. Ideally I would like to run a square stance so I can rotate the tires. I dig Enkei RPF1s, but I am not super picky. What size wheels and tires do y'all recomend? And what offset should I be looking at? Thanks!

[Duke]

Hoosier R7's in 245/45/R17 and 315/35/R17 on FFR 17" wheels. End of year they usually do some type of 50% off sale on wheels so I scored them for cheap. They should hold up fine to track use. I would go a little narrower on the front as the 245's required 2 rack limiters on each side to prevent rubbing and really limited the turning radius. I instead opted for F-panel rubbing and 1 rack limiter per side.

I really won't run them square IMO. You'll want more tire coming out of the apex so you can lay down more power without it coming around on you. Tires are a huge part of track performance and are consumables. Use them and dump them for another set. R7's you should be able to get 3-4 track days (12-15 heat cycles) on them. After about 7-10 cycles they get a little greasy, depending on the track.

PS - Good brake fluid should be at the top of your list and changed frequently for track days. I'm running Motul 660 both on the street & track.

[lahrs37]

Hoosier R7's in 245/45/R17 and 315/35/R17 on FFR 17" wheels. End of year they usually do some type of 50% off sale on wheels so I scored them for cheap. They should hold up fine to track use. I would go a little narrower on the front as the 245's required 2 rack limiters on each side to prevent rubbing and really limited the turning radius. I instead opted for F-panel rubbing and 1 rack limiter per side.

I really won't run them square IMO. You'll want more tire coming out of the apex so you can lay down more power without it coming around on you. Tires are a huge part of track performance and are consumables. Use them and dump them for another set. R7's you should be able to get 3-4 track days (12-15 heat cycles) on them. After about 7-10 cycles they get a little greasy, depending on the track.

PS - Good brake fluid should be at the top of your list and changed frequently for track days. I'm running Motul 660 both on the street & track.

Cool. That is super helpful. I will keep an eye out for that deal.

[CraigS]

I agree on not a square setup but would go to 275s up front. Front = 9 in w/ 6 in BS either 17 or 18. Rear = 10.5x17 or 10x 18. w/ 6.9-7.0 BS. American Muscle has the best deals on wheels. I run these;
http://www.americanmuscle.com/buwh1-9404.html
http://www.americanmuscle.com/dedibuwh.html
There are quite a few different styles and colors available inexpensive. BTW the 17s clear the stock 2015 mustang brakes on the IRS but you need to be careful on stick-on weight position. BTW2. Yes the tires slow after heat cycles but, unless you are really trying for lap times, just run them until they run out of tread. Also traction compound can help older tires.

[lahrs37]

Thanks Craig - those wheels look like a good option. I am a track virgin so I imagine that it might be a while until I am really shooting for the best lap times. :)

[Melb-Mike]

If you don't mind black wheels, and you want to save some money, look at Summit Racing for their BLACK ROCK race wheels in 17" diameter at a price under $100/wheel. Also, no doubt about it, Hoosier R7 race tires are the best bet. You can get them from Tire Rack or Appalachian Race Tire. I've been using these tires for the last 10 years and I tried the Goodyear and Michelin (take offs) and the Hoosiers (new) are incredible. When you start doing track events, you're going to be a little slow so you might get 5 to 6 track days out of a set. As you get quicker, and depending on the track (Sebring being the worst) you'll get down to 2-1/2 or 3 days out of a set.

As Duke said, you better get some high temp brake fluid like Motul or Castrol RBF. If not, YOUR BRAKES WILL FAIL. Don't make the mistake of having more power than brakes. Improve your brakes FIRST.

[Avalanche325]

Not tire related, but some guys are unaware of this item. Get and wear arm restraints.

I personally know a Cobra owner that spent 3 years in physical therapy because he didn't;t know they existed.

[Melb-Mike]

Not tire related, but some guys are unaware of this item. Get and wear arm restraints.

I personally know a Cobra owner that spent 3 years in physical therapy because he didn't;t know they existed.

If it's a SCCA event, arm restraints are mandatory. Some HPDE events also require them.

[Jim1855]

The American wheels look great and sure are a good deal. In the world of $4-600/wheel, these are a bargain. Thanks for the link.

Any idea on what they weigh?

I'm planning on street and track tires. Is it possible to fit 335/35-17s?

Jim

[CraigS]

The American wheels look great and sure are a good deal. In the world of $4-600/wheel, these are a bargain. Thanks for the link.

Any idea on what they weigh?

I'm planning on street and track tires. Is it possible to fit 335/35-17s?

Jim

335s are tough. I have given up on them. Really they need minimum 11 in wheel and 12 would be best. Unfortunately once you go beyond 10.5x17 they get expensive. this is the best option I could find but they require going to 18s. I was ready for the one time expense for the wheels.
http://www.racinglab.com/ROTA-P45R3-Wheel-18x12-p/rota-p45r3-1812-5114_20-73.htm
I got real close to ordering these and then checked the price of A7s. 335x17s are only about $10 > 315s. But 335x18s are >$60 more than 315x17s. that's when I gave up.

[Joee]

To answer you question probably 9" wide and 275 width. Personally race tires aren't needed at this point in your driving career. You will need to put in some time and $$$ (about $300 an event) to work up to running solo for time. At our local tracks you will start out doing progressive paced laps, pretty much follow the leader, for a few events. Then when you are comfortable with that you can move onto instructor laps, few more events. Then move onto solo when you are comfortable with your skills and are also confident you wont do something on track to endanger other drivers. Some guys try to go out a say they are skilled but you will be black flagged and pulled from event.

Yes there are track events where you can show up and just drive however once you observe the other non skilled drivers out there, not the type of session I want to be part of. I have worked up to solo driving with my street tires and even in solo event didn't need more tire our cars are well setup compared to the other cars at these learning events. I have not been pushing to run a track day lately bc the solo event was particularly hard on the car. It was a hot day and the car got hot, coolant and oil temps +240 deg, tires also were showing signs of melting. So just go out and try it then make the decision about upgrades. BTW do you have 2 roll bars?

I had no idea this guy was following me, had I known I wouldn't have signaled him by.
Track Night in America NJMP 8/10/16 Session 2 - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n8hwNaBcWuc)