Richey's 33 build by wallace18 Gen-1

[wallace18]

Had a really nice fellow Richey call me a few weeks ago. Seems he bought a 33 kit back in 4/27/16. He has had it in his very large carport since delivery. He met a guy at a car show who gave him my business card. We talked on the phone and he came by to see my MK4, GTM build and shop. He decided to have me build his 33 for him. I had him order all the parts that do not come with the kit, while I get my GTM running in go-cart stage. He now has everything but wheels and tires. He promises to have them shortly. I most likely will go get everything in the next few days, start inventory and the build. Here is what he ordered. Should be a really cool car when done.
From FFR-
33 complete kit
powder coat frame
Hard top with P/W
LS install kit
leather seats
3-link
extra clearance hood
sound insulation kit
chrome tilt column
hot rod A/C kit
Power windows and door handles
front and rear Wilwood brakes
electric P/S
LS manifolds

From other vendors
Connect and cruise LS3 E-rod 495 HP with 6 spd manual
Boyd fuel tank
Vintage air front runner system
Replicaparts fan shroud
XS power battery

[kraftee]

Sounds like a great build, Tom. I'll be coming by soon to check out the GTM! Eric

[Tampa33Build]

Tom,

Looking forward to "Richey's 33 build by wallace18" posts.

Neil

[wallace18]

Went up to Richey's with my friends Art and Jerry. We loaded everything up in about an hour and I have it back to my shop now. Engine went in pick-up bed all the rest in the trailer. Most likely take a few days to inventory everything. Should be a fun build. Stay tuned! LOL.

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[wallace18]

Friday afternoon My buddy Jerry helped me with inventory. We got about 80% done. Some stuff missing, but most is there. Today I unloaded the body and chassis. Also unloaded the LS3. Spent most of the day pressure washing a years worth of residue off the parts that were exposed to the weather. Also did some more inventory work. Here is some photos.

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[wallace18]

This afternoon I did get the chassis on the lift. Unfortunately a year exposed to the elements did not fair well with some parts. Lots of rust also some powder coat came off of the frame. I will touch it all up with rust encapsulator and paint. Other parts will get powder coated black . I did wired brush the Moser rear and paint the rusty stuff, looks better , IMO. Uncrated the LS3 E-Rod. Very cool!

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[RoadRacer]

How long are you expecting the build to take? You experienced guys seem to knock out everything PDQ!

[bakerboerne]

Why did he need the extra clearance hood, for a ls install ?

[wallace18]

I get 180 days in my contract to get car ready for paint. Usually takes less time, unless there is a parts hold up.

Not sure why the hood was ordered. I was not involved in the kit order a year ago.

[bakerboerne]

Interesting that the banana-bar on the rear end looks like it is welded on, instead of bolted ?

[wallace18]

Interesting that the banana-bar on the rear end looks like it is welded on, instead of bolted ?

It is! that is the way he got it. Unfortunately Moser cut off the top ears so I can't install the extra bracket from Vintage Performance Motorcars.

Richey came by today to drop off manual and radiator shroud from Replicaparts.

I sent email to FFR about a few missing parts I found finishing up inventory.

[wallace18]

Spent almost all morning gathering misc. stuff for the build. I did have time this afternoon to get the rust off of 3 control arms, painted them with rust encapsulator and then VHT gloss epoxy black suspension paint. I also got about 85% of the chassis aluminum drilled and clikoed in place. Also mocked up Boyd fuel tank mounting.

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[bakerboerne]

Is there any reason not to bring the boyd tank closer to the front? You have to nip off part of the back ears the way you have it. I don't have my stage 2 yet so not sure how far forward the tank can go without hitting the waterfall.

[bakerboerne]

Speedway sells a nice LS Fuel Filter/Fuel Regulator Kit # 91012800 It uses the AN fitting adaptors with screw on nuts (wanted to keep the 58 psi gas in the hose). I mounted it under the tank to keep the return line short. Then bought a 3/8 inch steel fuel line to go up to fuel rail on the drivers side. Also you will have to replace the lower rad. hose bib ... I got one that rotates to any position. Can't tell from your pict what oil pan you got. Some configurations have the oil filter/sump up front some have them in the back. If up front it comes real close to the round cross member... you should take the filter off when putting the engine in.

[wallace18]

I always trim the ears. I like the tank back as far as I can get it for weight reasons. Thanks for the advice on the fuel stuff.

[wallace18]

Today I finished up refinishing the upper control arms, rear trunk aluminum, installed rivnuts for fuel tank and finished up the rear end and 3-link install. I like the modifications FFR made to this part since my 33 build 4 years ago. 3- link bars are way better IMO.

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[wallace18]

Today I installed the firewall and engine turned it. I also made up the front hubs and installed the front upper control arms. I used 10-32 button head screws for the firewall. Take your time making sure all lines up correct. It is normal to trim all pieces some to make it right. I also installed the Wilwood pedal box. I have to order the clutch master cylinder.

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[Plimpton]

Today I installed the firewall and engine turned it. I also made up the front hubs and installed the front upper control arms. I used 10-32 button head screws for the firewall. Take your time making sure all lines up correct. It is normal to trim all pieces some to make it right. I also installed the Wilwood pedal box. I have to order the clutch master cylinder.

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Wallace818,
I'm thinking about a lift for my shop. Was thinking of a 4 post and noticed you use a 2 post. Which would you recommend?

[wallace18]

For building cars the 2 post is best IMO. For storing and oil changes the 4 post. I have both and that is how I use each one.

[wallace18]

Today I mounted the steering rack, steering column and rear Wilwood brakes. Also mocked up E-brake handle and what I could on lower control arms. Still waiting on FFR parts to come. Should be here tomorrow. I noticed my Wilwood caliper mounted different than most 8.8's. Maybe because it is a Moser?

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[wallace18]

Missing parts from inventory and correct shocks came FedEx today. I coated chassis aluminum with Lizard Skin and mounted a few pieces. I finished up front suspension plus mounted battery. Taking weekend off.

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[wallace18]

Today was brake day. I mounted front brakes, all hard brake lines, flex lines, master cylinders reservoir and hoses. I was able to gravity bleed all calipers. I will have my expert brake bleeder, Marsha help me bleed the rest tomorrow. Also installed E-brake cables.

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[wallace18]

Very busy day today. After taking off the 4th. I decided to ramp things up today some. First I mounted all the Vintage Air Front Runner System. Really nice stuff for sure. I did have to relocate the Evap Solenoid due to A/C compressor too close. Then I mounted the engine mounts. Next I installed the flywheel, clutch and transmission. Finally reinstalled the rear chassis aluminum and fuel tank. I am waiting on the Electric P/S from FFR. Once that is in I can install the power train.

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[RoadRacer]

I get 180 days in my contract to get car ready for paint. Usually takes less time, unless there is a parts hold up.

Not sure why the hood was ordered. I was not involved in the kit order a year ago.

Amazing progress. I don't think you'll be needing the 180 days :p

[wallace18]

Spent most of today mounting A/C evaporator and plumbed to firewall fittings. I like to mount electric heater valve inside. Now I can try to find locations for EFI fuse panel and GM ECU.

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[wallace18]

Did a couple different things today. First I had to separate the engine and trans. It seems the fitting from GM for the throw-out bearing is not supported by the aftermarket. Instead you have to drive out the pin and replace the GM fitting with the Russell unit and a 3-AN hose. It took only 15 minutes to do, LOL. I then mounted the condenser,radiator, shroud and grill together. I would like to pass on some helpful hints on this assembly. Install 1/4-20 rivnuts in the grill. Also install extra clamps in the shroud to hold the A/C lines firmly. I my opinion the Replicaparts 33 radiator shroud is a must to have on this kit. People always ask me, Tom does it get hot in Florida? The answer is yes, it is 100 F in my shop almost everyday. Lucky for me my fans keep me comfortable.

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http://replicaparts.com

[wallace18]

Only had a few hours this morning to work on the 33. I have to drive Church bus today. I did install the sound proof kit from FFR on the firewall today. Very nice stuff, IMO. Also installed Ron Francis fuse panel and LS3 ECU. Still have to figure out the rest of the spaghetti, LOL.

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[wallace18]

Today I plumbed up 98% of the fuel system. I also mounted the TBW gas pedal. I had to modify the pedal box and bracket that came with the connect and cruise. I installed the rear interior aluminum and coated the underside of the trans tunnel with Lizard skin. Also installed engine harness and sending units for temp and O/P. Hope to have Electric P/S tomorrow morning.

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[wallace18]

Today was a really good day. I mounted the electric kill switch, Richey brought over the electric P/S kit and I was able to install the sliders on his seat and get an idea on where it needs to be mounted. I will have to raise it 2" when the time comes. I installed the electric P/S, but did not clock it till the engine was installed. Marsha helped me install the engine. The HF engine installer was worth its weight in gold for this job, IMO, LOL. Everything fell right in place. I did raise the trans mount .33" for good clearance. I will have to have the drive shaft shortened 3.5" due to the T-56 6 speed. The tunnel fits great after a little cut around the shifter. I was able to clock the P/S motor and still have 2 holes to drill. It does stick slightly below the oil pan but only about 3/8". Worth it IMO.

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[wallace18]

Today I finished up the other 2 mounting hole for the P/S, mounted the P/S ECU and wires. I also mounted the Engine EFI fuse panel, started mounting the starter, the water temp sender & oil pressure sender wires. Hooked up the final fuel hose to the engine fuel rail. Mounted the rear drive shaft cover as well.

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[wallace18]

Started with installing a fitting for the steam line in the water pump. Then moved on to wiring up the alternator, oil pressure sensor, EFI fuse panel and starter. Also wired up the fuel sender, fuel pump and installed rear wiring harness. . Installed the trunk fill in parts.

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[bakerboerne]

Hooker makes a nice heat shield for the starter and wires... little expensive but if you are using the recommended exhaust manifolds you don't have mush room.
Hooker Starter Heat Shields 71223007HKR

[wallace18]

Hooker makes a nice heat shield for the starter and wires... little expensive but if you are using the recommended exhaust manifolds you don't have mush room.
Hooker Starter Heat Shields 71223007HKR
Thanks I will look into it.

[wallace18]

Had a good productive day today. I installed the radiator/grill assembly, all coolant hoses, A/C hoses and dryer. Now I can fill up the coolant and start evacuating the A/C unit. I like to use countersink bolts to mount the grill. Waiting on electrical connectors from Summit for the T56. Not sure why the Connect & Cruise gives all the engine wiring but none of the transmission. Go figure? Still waiting on the manifolds and drive shaft as well. I will try to mock up the air intake for the engine this week as well.

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[bakerboerne]

If you are using the Auto Meter gauges Auto Meter sales a "LS Install Kit" #5284 That has the M12 and M16 adaptor tech pullup resistor and the short temp sensor.

[wallace18]

If you are using the Auto Meter gauges Auto Meter sales a "LS Install Kit" #5284 That has the M12 and M16 adaptor tech pullup resistor and the short temp sensor.

Thanks, Already have all that good stuff.

[wallace18]

Another good day. I finished up all coolant lines and reservoir bottle then filled up with coolant. I mounted front harness, wired up fan, horns and A/C compressor to trinary switch. I installed trans tunnel, installed A/C drain hose, installed A/C vent hoses to Evap., hooked up clutch line and bled system. Also wired up speed sensor and B/U switch.

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[wallace18]

Finished up the trans tunnel and installed e-brake handle. Ran all wiring into cockpit and sealed up. Ran front wiring harness and finished it all up. Wired up B/U switch. Richey brought by manifolds and shorten drive shaft. I now have everything to make it run. Hopefully sometime next week.

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[flynntuna]

Geez, your traveling at the speed of Wayne.

[wallace18]

What started out as a good day turned to be a little more difficult. First I installed the shortened drive shaft. That went well. Next I installed the drivers side exhaust manifold, that went Ok. Unfortunately the passenger side manifold was too close to my starter wires and low side A/C hose. I was able to relocate the wires and make a starter heat shield. I did have to change the A/C fitting to the firewall. It took me 6 parts stores and drove 45 miles till I found the straight #10 fitting I needed. Once I got all that sorted I was able to finish up the drivers side exhaust. I will finish up the passenger side tomorrow and start on the intake plumbing.

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[wallace18]

Finished up the passenger side exhaust. I made a heat shield for the e-brk. Started on wiring. Wired up instrument panel, ignition switch and light switch. Also electric P/S and EFI. Still more to debut taking weekend off.

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[wallace18]

Today I finished up air intake and pcv system. I started engine. Runs great! Good oil pressure and fan comes on at 195 as per GM computer. I am going to use RF fan relay for A/C fan circuit. I am adding muffler heat shields also. 32 days from getting kit from Richey the thing runs. I could go-cart if I had wheels and tires. LOL.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EhCSts2SlTg&feature=youtu.be

[WIS89]

You are the man Tom!

Its amazing how quickly you work on these cars, and at such a high quality to boot!!

I really admire your work, well done Sir!

Regards,

Steve

[wallace18]

Finished up the passenger side muffler heat shield. I installed a charcoal canister and plumbed it to the roll over valve. I evacuated and charged the A/C, blows 48 degrees F. I installed the insulation in the cockpit area. Also wire up fan relay so the fan comes on with the A/C.

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[Dodgeman]

Could you show (pictures) how you plumb the heater control valve into the the AC unit.

Thanks,
Bob

[wallace18]

Could you show (pictures) how you plumb the heater control valve into the the AC unit.

Thanks,
Bob

Look at post 25 it is right there.

[wallace18]

Installed the fuel rail covers today, sure makes it look a lot better, IMO. I started on the body and did cut outs for gauges, A/C vents, defrost vents and front access holes. Ran into a weird problem. Every day the fuel line up front near the firewall was wet but smelled like oil not gas. I found out the nipple on the bottom of the clutch fluid reservoir was leaking. Not welded properly. I ended up using JB weld to fix it. Sure through me for a loop for awhile, LOL.

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[JOP33]

I found out the nipple on the bottom of the clutch fluid reservoir was leaking. Not welded properly. I ended up using JB weld to fix it. Sure through me for a loop for awhile, LOL.



I have noticed "seapage" around the top of the reservoirs as well, but no issues with the bottom (yet). I have wiped the top ledges several times only to go back and see fluid sitting around the cap. I now keep the fluid below that level as before I had it all the way to the top.

[DaveS53]

Finished up the passenger side muffler heat shield. I installed a charcoal canister and plumbed it to the roll over valve. I evacuated and charged the A/C, blows 48 degrees F. I installed the insulation in the cockpit area. Also wire up fan relay so the fan comes on with the A/C.


Did you install a trinary switch in the high pressure side of the AC? That's the proper way. The switch will turn the fan on when the pressure gets higher than desired, then shuts the compressor off, it it get too high. The fan should not run all the time, just because the AC is on.

[wallace18]

Did you install a trinary switch in the high pressure side of the AC? That's the proper way. The switch will turn the fan on when the pressure gets higher than desired, then shuts the compressor off, it it get too high. The fan should not run all the time, just because the AC is on.
I beg to differ with you. You are entitled to your opinion for sure, but here in FL they need to run when the A/C is on. I have used the trinary switch and had heat issues in the past. It is much cooler and dryer air there in CO for sure. I have the compressor tied into the trinary but not the fan.

[DaveS53]

At least you have the compressor protected with high pressure shut down. That's the main thing. Vintage air says that you should be able to get 36-46 degree air from the center vent. I have no trouble getting below 40.

[H R Lucky]

Good Job Tom, but could you speed it up a little!:o:)

to get serious, keep up the good work, I'm sure Richey will be pleased with it.

[Marlar]

Where did you get the air cleaner and the rest of the intake setup? I am building basically the same setup. Yours sound great. Keep up the good work.

[wallace18]

Where did you get the air cleaner and the rest of the intake setup? I am building basically the same setup. Yours sound great. Keep up the good work.

Summit, but it was all Spectre parts.

[Marlar]

Do you happen to have the part numbers of the spectre intake system that you have. I went to Summit and try to find a similar setup but they have hundreds from Spectre. Thanks for any info you have.

[wallace18]

Been waiting for Richey to bring me wheels, tires and lug nuts. I met him half way from his home today at 5PM. All 4 are US Mags 18x9.5 with 245/40 ZR18 Michelin Pilot Sport 4S tires. I still need to get lug nuts then I can do alignment and go-cart. I did make the 2" risers for both seats today.

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[wallace18]

Do you happen to have the part numbers of the spectre intake system that you have. I went to Summit and try to find a similar setup but they have hundreds from Spectre. Thanks for any info you have.


spe-9785
spe-9718
spe-8132

[CVOBill]

Tom did you raise the seat 2" front and rear? I was thinking about raising the front 1.5" and the rear 1/4" more of a wedge like I did on my Cobra years ago. If so is that how you did your car when you built it? I'm actually planning on mounting my seats tonight.

Thanks

[wallace18]

Tom did you raise the seat 2" front and rear? I was thinking about raising the front 1.5" and the rear 1/4" more of a wedge like I did on my Cobra years ago. If so is that how you did your car when you built it? I'm actually planning on mounting my seats tonight.

Thanks

2" all around

[wallace18]

Got the lug nuts and did the alignment, go-carted car and calibrated the speedo. All came out great! Car is super fast, but very nice to cruz in. But you can see how quick this car is for sure.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uSMw0eMeloI&feature=youtu.be

[wallace18]

Installed the body using my 12V ceiling winch. Installed 1/4-20 firewall button head bolts, side panel screws using 10-32 drill/tap on sides and 10-32 button head screws with rubber backed washers. I used large S/S fender washers and 5/8 button head bolts for the rear fender mounts. Everything lined up great once I got my measurements all done. I traced out the top hinge cutouts. I am going to use this series of videos to mount doors. I also tried fuel filler hose to fit filler neck.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?5522-Installing-the-Doors-a-5-part-video

This is a very good way to get good results.

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[Dodgeman]

How much of a gap do you have under the body to frame sill plate? its looking good and you are really building this one quick.

bob

[wallace18]

How much of a gap do you have under the body to frame sill plate? its looking good and you are really building this one quick.

bob

around a 1/2" or less.

[wallace18]

Today I did the door hinge cutouts and mounted the door striker. I also installed the brass bushings. Do yourself a favor and glue these in place using the pin for alignment. It will save you a lot of time and headaches, LOL. I use a washer on the top and bottom of the door hinge pin. This will allow you to get a good fit and little to no slop in the hinge assembly. I started to fit the drivers door. Lots of grinding with the belt sander to get a fit that works. Hope to finish up the driver door tomorrow.

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[Marlar]

Thanks for the numbers. It will sure make it easier.

[wallace18]

Today was door day, LOL. I am 90% done with mounting the drivers door. It opens and closes fine. Still needs adjustment and slight trimming. I did mock up the power window motors and brackets for both sides. I also placed the hood in place. I wanted to see how different the extra clearance hood looks vs the normal one. Taking the weekend off and Monday as well.
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The door latches are different than in the manual. You just use the one hole for the pin and mount the clevis on the opposite side to the clevis for the outside door handle. Thanks, Tony!

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[supergas489]

I like the vintage air front runner system because it has A/C compressor and alternator, but are the balancer and water pump necessary for the whole system to work? I thought the LS3 connect and cruise system had balancer and water pump already installed.

[wallace18]

I like the vintage air front runner system because it has A/C compressor and alternator, but are the balancer and water pump necessary for the whole system to work? I thought the LS3 connect and cruise system had balancer and water pump already installed.

Yes they come with the kit. The system uses LS1 pump so the LS3 pump and pulley will not work .

[DaveS53]

The cheapest accessory drive that you can put together uses a Cadillac CTS drive, with an Alan Grove compressor mount. It will work with the LS3 water pump and stock balancer.

You'll have a low mount compressor and alternator. You will have to figure out the belt length.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?24558-LS3-in-a-33-questions&p=283362#post283362

The documents for the GM 19299070 drive list all the parts in the kit, so it is possible to skip the unneeded power steering pump, but buying the other parts separately might actually cost more.

http://paceperformance.com/i-6485404-19299070-cpp-accessory-drive-system-without-a-c-fits-ls1-ls6-engines.html

[wallace18]

Today I finished the passenger door. Went much easier that drivers side, LOL. I started to trim the trunk so I can mount it and get final gap trimming. Also mocked up rear tail lights. Coming along very nice. Had to quit a 2:30 today, 98 degrees in the shop with a 106 heat index. I try to do most of my work in the AM.

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[wallace18]

Finished up the trunk. I use 10-24 screws and install 10-24 rivnuts to the latch bracket instead of using rivets as per the manual. I started on the nose cone. I use 1/4-20 rivnuts to mount the tie pontoons. Then I use 10-32 screws to mount nosecone to grill. Still have some trimming to do.

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[wallace18]

Finished up the nose cone. Installed the hood using 3 quick latches. Next up is the waterfall. I have to remove doors for that, Rats, LOL.

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[wallace18]

Well what I call the waterfall, FFR calls it the rear cockpit cover, LOL. I would like to share a tip on how to get easy hole in the waterfall for your roll bar. Get 2 boards long enough to go from the rear deck to the front dash area. Drill a 1.5" hole over the area of the roll bar bottom on the chassis. Place the roll bar thru the boards and use a hole in the front, I used one of my defrost vent holes and drill another where the top or rear surround cover would be. This puts the boards in the correct position. Now remove the roll bar and install your trimmed and screwed in waterfall (cockpit cover). Place the boards back in position with your holes. I used 3/16 drill bits and 1/4-20 screws up front. Now place the roll bar thru the boards and now you can trace exactly where the roll bar will go thru the waterfall. Remove and drill. You may have to trim slightly but it comes out very nice each time. I hope this is a help to some new builders. I also started on the side panels. My customer want them very open to show off his engine. I still have to trim them up near the grill some.

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[DaveS53]

Good job on the holes for the roll bar. FFR isn't bashful about putting items that may need maintenance (fuel pump and related items) behind a panel that will be a real pain to remove when the car is fully assembled.

I can get to my filter/regulator from below the car and remove access panels in the trunk for the fuel pump in about 5 minutes.

[wallace18]

Normally I do not work on Saturdays. I was so close to finishing up the side panels and hood I had to work some today. I did finish up the sides and hood. I had Marsha, my lovely wife help me set the top on just to see it on the car. Lots of work to do on that for sure. Richey the customer will come by Monday to see car. I am sure he will be blown away. I hope to have car ready to go to paint shop by the end of the month.

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[adubbelde]

Tom, that's amazing. You gave yourself 180 days and you'll be done in half of that!

[wallace18]

Today I set the roll bar height with the top on. Then I drilled the holes for the roll bar pins. I then reinstalled the waterfall. I mounted 2 - 1/8" steel plates for the seats to bolt down to. Richey the customer I am building this car came by and was all smiles. He is very happy with the progress and can't wait to drive it. I took a picture of him sitting in the car. **** Do not make the same mistake I did with the A/C vent locations. I drilled the holes according to the manual instructions with the body off. Unfortunately for me the measurements only work if you have a cable clutch not a Hydraulic one. I will need to drill new holes and use the plugs from them to fill the first ones I made. Hopefully I can save someone else from making the same mistake.

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[flynntuna]

Tom what did you use to attach the steel plates for the seats to the frame?

[wallace18]

Yes to the frame.

[flynntuna]

I'm sorry , my question wasn't clear. Did you weld it , bolt it rivit it, the method of attachment?

[wallace18]

I'm sorry , my question wasn't clear. Did you weld it , bolt it rivit it, the method of attachment?

Rivets and bolts.

[wallace18]

The last 2 days I have been working on the top, P/W and outside door handles. I use painters tape to hold the weather strips in place on the top. I wait till after paint to mount them permanently. I cut out for the P/W and found out I am missing 4 brackets. FFR is shipping them, Thanks Dan! I started of the outside door handles. Boy they are a PITA!!! I really prefer to use remote door openers myself but, Richey wants the handles. I will have to fabricate a better cable deal by the latch. I am at least making some progress, LOL!

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[wallace18]

Spent the morning getting everything working really good on the passenger door. See the photo on how I had to modify the cable setup to the latch. I was able to do all my mods to the drivers side and now have both doors about 90% done.

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[wallace18]

Finished up the drivers window. I started on the side exhaust. Very tight where it passes thru the frame right before going out the body. I had to oval shape the pipe to make it fit and have clearance. Finished up passenger side. Still more work to do on drivers side exhaust.

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[erlihemi]

Spent the morning getting everything working really good on the passenger door. See the photo on how I had to modify the cable setup to the latch. I was able to do all my mods to the drivers side and now have both doors about 90% done.

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That whole door assembly as delivered needs to be re-designed. Mine wasn't quite as far off on the cable to latch as yours looks, but, that hokey handle and spring arrangement FFR supplies is sub par. Are you using the supplied mirrors?

[wallace18]

That whole door assembly as delivered needs to be re-designed. Mine wasn't quite as far off on the cable to latch as yours looks, but, that hokey handle and spring arrangement FFR supplies is sub par. Are you using the supplied mirrors? As far as I know I am. I most likely will use convex mirrors though.

[wallace18]

Last 2 days I installed the front headlights and wired them up. My customer wants to be able to drive the car with the sides and hood off of the car. So I modified the side panels so you can leave the headlights attached. I also mounted the Roadster windshield since my customer requested to be able to go back and forth with the 2 tops. Personally I would stay with the hardtop. If you think you may want to use both do not mount the roadster windshield as in the manual. The holes will not be covered up by the hardtop. Instead mount the hardtop. Trace its outline and install the roadster windshield inside the hardtop outline. Also install the roadster gasket on the windshield frame not on the body. I made holes for the rear speakers and decided to mount tweeters in the holes I made for the A/C vents that I screwed up earlier. I installed and modified the trunk rear bottom aluminum piece and tested the rear lights. Mounted the license plate holder and light as well as the B/U light.
Basically once I do the center console, PWR door switches, radio and a/c controls car will be ready to go out for paint.

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[wallace18]

Today I mocked up the center console. A/C controls at top and radio below. Then in front of shifter the P/W switches. Towards the back the arm rest will pivot up to allow storage and a cup holder in front of it. All will get covered in grained black vinyl. I still have to cut out for P/W switches and wire it all up.

72757727587275972760

[TDSapp]

Today I mocked up the center console. A/C controls at top and radio below. Then in front of shifter the P/W switches. Towards the back the arm rest will pivot up to allow storage and a cup holder in front of it. All will get covered in grained black vinyl. I still have to cut out for P/W switches and wire it all up.

72733727347273572736


I am getting error messages on all of the attachments.

[WIS89]

Tom-

Like Tim said, I too am receiving error messages...

Regards,

Steve




I am getting error messages on all of the attachments.

[Dodgeman]

Tom-

Like Tim said, I too am receiving error messages...

Regards,

Steve

Me too!

[wallace18]

I deleted them and reinstalled them. I can see them now.

[TDSapp]

Wallace,

Nice looking console! I like how it looks. I might have to steal the design for my car. :-)

Only change I would make is somehow getting two drink holders in it. SWMBO will insist on not having to hold her drink.


Are you going to put USB ports in the console for charging phones or an Aux cable to connect a phone to the stereo? SWMBO and I was talking the other day and I think that when I get to that point I am going to not put a radio head unit in the car. The amp and speakers will be wired to either accept Bluetooth or an Aux cable input from a phone or tablet. That way I don't have to worry about wiring up a radio and figuring out where to put it when the dash is already a tight fit.

[Dodgeman]

Last 2 days I installed the front headlights and wired them up. My customer wants to be able to drive the car with the sides and hood off of the car. So I modified the side panels so you can leave the headlights attached. I also mounted the Roadster windshield since my customer requested to be able to go back and forth with the 2 tops. Personally I would stay with the hardtop. If you think you may want to use both do not mount the roadster windshield as in the manual. The holes will not be covered up by the hardtop. Instead mount the hardtop. Trace its outline and install the roadster windshield inside the hardtop outline. Also install the roadster gasket on the windshield frame not on the body. I made holes for the rear speakers and decided to mount tweeters in the holes I made for the A/C vents that I screwed up earlier. I installed and modified the trunk rear bottom aluminum piece and tested the rear lights. Mounted the license plate holder and light as well as the B/U light.
Basically once I do the center console, PWR door switches, radio and a/c controls car will be ready to go out for paint.

726927269372694726957269672697

What size speakers are you going to install in the dash and waterfall.

Bob.

[wallace18]

I have some 2.5" Tweeter speakers from a BMW for the dash and 4.5" 2-way speakers for the waterfall. I found the BMW ones in a local U-Pull-it boneyard. An easy fix for my goof up on A/C vent location.

[adubbelde]

My Cousin's family has an auto recycling facility. They also have a separate U-Pull it section, only because
their business evolved on their farm they call it the "EWE pull it".

[neswes]

Tom I like the aluminum console over the wood one I did that I copied off tiger bill...very clean

[wallace18]

Today I wired up the A/C controls, radio, speakers, courtesy lights, A/C vents and P/W switches. I covered the front of the console with black vinyl and reinstalled the waterfall. Installed the shifter boot also. I am waiting on S/S cupholder to come in mail so I can finish up rear of console. Stereo sounds great!

728197282072821

[Dodgeman]

I have some 2.5" Tweeter speakers from a BMW for the dash and 4.5" 2-way speakers for the waterfall. I found the BMW ones in a local U-Pull-it boneyard. An easy fix for my goof up on A/C vent location.

Thanks for the information.
Bob

[wallace18]

Finished mocking up mirrors, panels and trim so car can go to Huegenics for paint tomorrow. 68 days from when I picked up kit and 44 days of actual working on car. Total hours so far is 220. Hope to take some time off and maybe do some work on GTM.

72957

[wallace18]

Dropped car off at Huegenics today. Richey picked out a really cool candy red for above the cove line and a metallic silver for below. I have a few things to remove from the car for them to get started on bodywork. Here is a few pics at Huegenics
http://www.huegenics.com

7299272993

[erlihemi]

Nice Work!

[CVOBill]

Nice job!!

[WIS89]

Tom-

Nice work as always. Perhaps, a good chance to catch your breath!

The color combo sounds great. Without seeing it, I would be tempted to switch the colors; red on bottom, silver on top. However, I bet it will turn out great.

It's been fun following along, and I look forward to seeing it all wrapped up!

Regards,

Steve

[wallace18]

Made it thru Irma fine. Huegenics had no damage , So 33 is fine as well. While I wait for paint work, I finished up rear console, has magnetic catch for top. Also engine turned sill plates and window inside plates. I use the FFR window seals on the outside and Steele weather strip with felt for the inside on aluminum angle.

739197392073921

[myjones]

Made it thru Irma fine. Huegenics had no damage , So 33 is fine as well. While I wait for paint work, I finished up rear console, has magnetic catch for top. Also engine turned sill plates and window inside plates. I use the FFR window seals on the outside and Steele weather strip with felt for the inside on aluminum angle.

739197392073921

Tom
That's a nice looking console, you may want to make a few more of those ?
Dale

[wallace18]

Stopped by Huegenics Saturday. They are really doing some fine work on the 33. Lots of work making the cutout side panels more stiff. Also getting all the gaps perfect. Still lot more work to do before primer. These guys take the time to do it right!

75440

[wallace18]

While I was at Huegenics today I took more pics and fitted the rear cover for when you go topless, LOL. They are getting closer to primer every day.

7568575686756877568875689

[wallace18]

Went to Huegenics and took the body off the chassis. Brought the chassis home to finish up what I can before putting on the painted body and all the rest.

7683376834

[wallace18]

Spent the last few days cleaning off all the dust from the body work. I also installed 2 hood stops in the rear to support the body better in this area. Fully adjustable.

7726277263

[HVACMAN]

Wallace, if you don't mind me asking, what did you do about the thermostat housing? I looked through the build thread but couldn't tell for sure.

[wallace18]

Wallace, if you don't mind me asking, what did you do about the thermostat housing? I looked through the build thread but couldn't tell for sure. Bought a swivel one from Speedway. Part # 550-2670

[TDSapp]

If you want the Summit Racing number I bought one today... SUM-371101

[HVACMAN]

If you want the Summit Racing number I bought one today... SUM-371101

Thanks for the help guys. This forum is awesome!!

[wallace18]

With the GTM gone to its new owner, I had time for the 33. Marsha helped me rebleed the clutch. Then I installed the carpet and seat belts.

774707747177472

[wallace18]

I had L&S Auto trim do the waterfall in vinyl. I installed the speakers. Body work is all primiered and going to sit for a week to cure. Hope to put on color by the 20th.

7761577616

[HVACMAN]

I have followed this build pretty closely since it is very similar to what I’m doing. I admire your work greatly but need some help. Today I’m working on the electric power steering and once I had the clocking ready to drill the final two holes the distance below the frame rails concerns me. In its current position the ps motor is approximately two inches below the frame rails and the oil pan approximately one inch below the frame rails. 77621
However when I attached a level to the x frame in the center of the car those measurements were cut in half. 7762277623
Does this appear to be about correct?

[DaveS53]

I wouldn't have anything hanging lower than the oil pan sump.

[wallace18]

I have followed this build pretty closely since it is very similar to what I’m doing. I admire your work greatly but need some help. Today I’m working on the electric power steering and once I had the clocking ready to drill the final two holes the distance below the frame rails concerns me. In its current position the ps motor is approximately two inches below the frame rails and the oil pan approximately one inch below the frame rails. 77621
However when I attached a level to the x frame in the center of the car those measurements were cut in half. 7762277623
Does this appear to be about correct?

Yes that is correct. That is what happens with the LS3. It does not happen with the SBF. I clocked Richey's as far up as I could.

[lwkinderknecht]

looking forward to seeing your build of a 33 and then 35 pickup. still waiting on a 33 steel body to be available. haven't gotten past build school, just lurking and looking. with ten and more builds, you are my hero.

[wallace18]

Stopped by Huegenics today to pick up paint for the fellow who bought my MK4 recently. They have the 33 all primiered and are allowing a week to cure. They should be doing color by this time next week, WooHoo!

7770977710

[bellingson]

Today was a really good day. I mounted the electric kill switch, Richey brought over the electric P/S kit and I was able to install the sliders on his seat and get an idea on where it needs to be mounted. I will have to raise it 2" when the time comes. I installed the electric P/S, but did not clock it till the engine was installed. Marsha helped me install the engine. The HF engine installer was worth its weight in gold for this job, IMO, LOL. Everything fell right in place. I did raise the trans mount .33" for good clearance. I will have to have the drive shaft shortened 3.5" due to the T-56 6 speed. The tunnel fits great after a little cut around the shifter. I was able to clock the P/S motor and still have 2 holes to drill. It does stick slightly below the oil pan but only about 3/8". Worth it IMO.

70205702067020770208702097021070211
7021270213

What Front Drive system did you use for the AC, water pump, and alt?

[wallace18]

This one.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vta-175011/overview/make/chevrolet

[wallace18]

I get asked all the time how long does it take to build one of these. There is no real answer. Each build is different. I got this kit and had it go to paint in 69 days. Now it has been at the paint shop for almost 4 months. Which is out of my control. I spend on the average 25 hours a week on the builds. I usually tell folks I can have one ready to go to paint in 90 days or less. Except for a GTM, LOL. After this build I am not taking on any more customer builds till my 35 is ready for paint. Most likely some time in June 2018 give or take a month. I hope to be done with this one by second week of Jan. 2018.

[wallace18]

Went over to Huegenics today to put headliner in roof. First time I got to see paint. Wow! Not even wet sanded or buffed yet. Candy red on top of silver. Hope to install body on Monday. Maybe finish up car by the 20th. Have to take top to Mauldin's Auto-glass for window install on Monday as well.

787457874678747787487874978750

[neswes]

Love that color combo

[wallace18]

Been working at Huegenics last 3 days putting the body back on. Still have to mount roof. Then I will take it home and finish up P/W, doors and Misc.

78977789787897978980

[erlihemi]

Richey's getting a nice Hot Rod!! Looks great!

[CVOBill]

Looks great and getting closer, nice work as always.

[wallace18]

Mounted roof this morning. Customer came by to see car. He is super happy, Yea! I loaded up to take to me shop to finish up car and deliver by Tuesday 1/16/18. Pictures do not do car justice.

7909979100791017910279103

[CVOBill]

Tom,

Did you make the side panels 2 pieces or leave it together? I believe on your last car it was 2 pieces correct?

[wallace18]

It is 2 pieces but the second piece is very small to fill in gap at front of headlights.

[CVOBill]

Can you post some pictures of how you did that please? Is it the same as your car?

Thanks

[Imbugadifino]

Tom, Thanks for the thread and will be used as a reference.
I am about to confirm my 33 kit and using a donor car and need RHD.
Am I able to pick your brains when the time comes as I'm sure I will need some help?
Thanks
Steve

[wallace18]

Tom, Thanks for the thread and will be used as a reference.
I am about to confirm my 33 kit and using a donor car and need RHD.
Am I able to pick your brains when the time comes as I'm sure I will need some help?
Thanks
Steve

I will do what I can for sure.

[wallace18]

Can you post some pictures of how you did that please? Is it the same as your car?

Thanks Here you go.

79244792467924779248

[CVOBill]

Tom,

Thanks for the pictures, this really helps out.

[wallace18]

Finished up Richey's 33 yesterday. Loaded it up today to take back to Huegenics for final detail on Monday and will deliver to Richey on Tuesday. I got to drive it some yesterday. This car is super fast and very loud! I personally would have gone with the rear exhaust. But Richey loves it as is, thats what counts! Paint is awesome in the sun. Thanks to Richey, his wife Therese, Marsha, my Hot Rod buddies, FFR and Huegenics for this great build. This makes #9 for me. Hope to get started on #10, 35-P/U soon. As always I am available for builds. Thanks to all that posted , their help and comments.

7929379294792957929679297

[BN]

Great work tom ��

[flynntuna]

Looks great Tom.
Is that 4th picture an optical illusion, are you actually taller than the car kneeling down?

[wallace18]

Looks great Tom.
Is that 4th picture an optical illusion, are you actually taller than the car kneeling down?

It is that low. LOL.

[neswes]

Really good looking car Tom. Nice work

[CVOBill]

Looks great!!!

[wrp]

Very Nice

[wallace18]

Delivered the 33 to Richey today. He was very happy to say the least. It is always nice to exceed expectations. Unfortunately he has the flu going around. May be some time before he can title and tag it to go enjoy it.
Now it is time for me to clean up the shop and start on my 35.

[RoadRacer]

Today I finished up refinishing the upper control arms, rear trunk aluminum, installed rivnuts for fuel tank and finished up the rear end and 3-link install. I like the modifications FFR made to this part since my 33 build 4 years ago. 3- link bars are way better IMO.

69472

I'm curious about this. My trunk aluminum looks like yours - not surprising I guess, mine is a 2017 kit - but different from many other pics I see, that have an aluminum banana bracket cover sticking into trunk. So, did the 3-link design change that much, prompting new flat aluminum?

[wallace18]

No they redid the trunk aluminum. The top part goes back farther and the bottom is smaller. The 3-link is slightly different in how it clears the diff better also.

[WIS89]

Tom-

You did an awesome job on this car! The color looks great, and the details are terrific, as always.

Customer has an awful lot to be happy with. Well done!

Regards,

Steve

[H R Lucky]

Tom,
Nice Job on the Hot Rod, looks really good.
What is causing the appearance of a split window in the last picture with the car in the trailer.

Nevin

[wallace18]

Tom,
Nice Job on the Hot Rod, looks really good.
What is causing the appearance of a split window in the last picture with the car in the trailer.

Nevin

My guess is the rear view mirror. I installed it on the top instead of the dash. If you install it on the dash all you get is a view of the sky thru the rear window. This way you can really see the road behind you.

[HVACMAN]

Good Morning, I don't mean to high jack the thread but I have a quick question. When you installed the manifold and down pipes on the LS, did you have any clearance issues with the down pipe flange and the frame? As you can see in the pictures,m7976479765y left side fit perfectly but the right side is contacting the frame.

[wallace18]

Good Morning, I don't mean to high jack the thread but I have a quick question. When you installed the manifold and down pipes on the LS, did you have any clearance issues with the down pipe flange and the frame? As you can see in the pictures,m7976479765y left side fit perfectly but the right side is contacting the frame.

No I did not. Did you use the Hooker manifolds from FFR? I used those and had plenty of clearance on both sides. I was a little tight around the starter though.

[HVACMAN]

No I did not. Did you use the Hooker manifolds from FFR? I used those and had plenty of clearance on both sides. I was a little tight around the starter though.

Yes. I did use the Hookers. I talked to Dave at FF and he suggested loosening the motor mount to see if I can shift things slightly left. Thanks for the response.

[Dcc2]

Finished up the passenger side muffler heat shield. I installed a charcoal canister and plumbed it to the roll over valve. I evacuated and charged the A/C, blows 48 degrees F. I installed the insulation in the cockpit area. Also wire up fan relay so the fan comes on with the A/C.

710717107271073

What is your source for the charcoal canister, part # etc.

Thanks

[TDSapp]

What is your source for the charcoal canister, part # etc.

Thanks


Take a look at this thread....

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?19052-Charcoal-canister

It probably answers all your questions.

[wallace18]

What is your source for the charcoal canister, part # etc.

Thanks

I just go to a U-Pull-it junkyard and get one that will work for my build.

[reckerd]

I like your idea of locating the heater solenoid inside the cab. That cleans the engine compartment a little.

[coolair247]

How did you get your firewall to look like it does? Tool used? Thanks

[wallace18]

How did you get your firewall to look like it does? Tool used? Thanks

I used a scuff pad on my drill press. Spray WD40 on the aluminum then just press down for a second or 2. You can buy the pads and arbor at any auto parts store.

[coolair247]

Thanks, looks awesome! May give it a try.

[sturigus83]

Tom great job again. This is the second time I have followed your work and look forward to reading your next one. I hope it will be on your 35 as well. You do good work and just do it right all the time except for the hole in the dash I had to get you on that one. Just human and we all make mistakes I hope you stay safe don't work to hard and take care of yourself. Looking for the next one.

[sturigus83]

Tom once again another great build I don't know how you do it. The 33 turned out wonderful inside and out. I love the candy color it is so sharp in the sun. This is about the fourth build I have followed you on and I really enjoy it and you come up with so good ideas as well even the hole in the dash turned out good. Enjoy your time off and hope you don't have to wait to long on your 35.