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View Full Version : Coyote Pedal and 05+ 3650 Tranmission....



ClemsonS197
06-26-2011, 05:34 PM
So I probably have about 12 hours worth of thinking, measuring, cutting, and trial & error in this pedal set. Got everything mounted up today. Hopefully it will work.

Parts:
Coyote drive-by-wire pedal
SN95 Pedal Box
2005-2009 Pedal Box
3/16" steel plate

I know there is already a Coyote pedal solution but it involves cutting the pedal down which changes the range of motion, plus increases effort. I wanted a solution that keeps the pedal as is.

Here's the Coyote Pedal from Ford:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/FinlayZJ/Factory%20Five%20Roadster/DSC_0457.jpg

Obviously the flanges need to be cut off so the inner sheet metal wont interfere. I then decided to build a bracket that would mount to the pedal bracket provided on the Factory Five chassis (right).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/FinlayZJ/Factory%20Five%20Roadster/DSC_0197.jpg

The coyote pedal mounts to the upper portion, and the lower portion mounts to the frame. The upper left hand corner is notched for steering shaft clearance.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/FinlayZJ/Factory%20Five%20Roadster/DSC_0198.jpg

Here's the bracket mocked up in the chassis.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/FinlayZJ/Factory%20Five%20Roadster/DSC_0201.jpg

Next, I bolted the pedal in. The pedal bolts to the chassis in numerous places.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/FinlayZJ/Factory%20Five%20Roadster/DSC_0204.jpg

To strengthen it, I used aluminum spacers to add mounting points to the 'firewall' where the pedal box attaches. You can also see the notch for the steering shaft. I had to inboard the bearing for the Whitby booster kit. Even with the spacers, it didn't clear.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/FinlayZJ/Factory%20Five%20Roadster/DSC_0206.jpg

So that's how I mounted my Coyote pedal. On to the Brake/Clutch...

ClemsonS197
06-26-2011, 05:45 PM
I started with a SN95 box and built two custom brackets (center top and top left) for the hydraulic clutch actuator from the 05+ box (top). The silver spring on the left side of the box is off the 05+ pedal box. It's the return for the clutch. To get the spring to fit, I cut 1/4" off the bolt on the right hand side, and put it on the left.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/FinlayZJ/Factory%20Five%20Roadster/DSC_0193.jpg

Next, the two new brackets get bolted to the SN95 box. The pointed bracket bolts to the outside of the clutch pedal, and the other to the SN95 box. The clutch pedal now compresses the hydraulic actuator when you push the pedal in.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/FinlayZJ/Factory%20Five%20Roadster/DSC_0194.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/FinlayZJ/Factory%20Five%20Roadster/DSC_0195.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/FinlayZJ/Factory%20Five%20Roadster/DSC_0196.jpg

The hydraulic actuator is the same distance and travel as the 05+ box. I just flipped it around due to space constraints. The 05+ transmissions use the master cylinder and brake fluid as their working fluid. I plan on adding a 3rd Wilwood reservoir for the clutch.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/FinlayZJ/Factory%20Five%20Roadster/DSC_0211.jpg

Everything together with bent pedals. I'll add a dead pedal bump out and should have a decent space for my size 13's.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/FinlayZJ/Factory%20Five%20Roadster/DSC_0209.jpg

JGPierce
06-26-2011, 07:51 PM
Looking great with a clean set up. Lots of work you put in there. There's one thing that I had a tough time with was the distance between the inner part of the gas pedal and the footbox. Make sure there's enough room to add insulation and carpet so the pedal doesn't rub.


John