Custom Headers

[Mountain-Metalworks]

I've done lots of fabrication and custom parts on previous projects(mainly Jeeps) but building my MKIV has definitely created a bunch of "first time I've ever done that" moments. I have built exhaust systems in the past but always used off-the-shelf headers as a starting point. That wasn't an option for me based on engine choice this time so I decided to tackle building custom headers.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69145&d=1497804449

Buying the ICE Engine Works "lego" builder kit would have been nice but ouch on the pocket book. Instead I just started with a bunch of Schoenfeld Headers j-bends in 1-7/8" 16 gauge mild steel and I created a custom chart with all the common angles I might use. I cut a little tool to help scribe lines around the tubes and just started with a few chop saw cuts to see what angles might work. It really hasn't been difficult, just tedious. In the end, I'll most likely use a total of 9 j-bends to complete both sides, but as of now the driver's side is done using four and a half tubes.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69144&d=1497804447

I used a 1/2" header flange to resist heat warping and also tried some other tricks to keep things flat. The 4 port side pipe flange is from Factory Five and a local muffler shop stretched the ends of my 1-7/8" tube out to the 2" holes in that flange. You can also see the aluminum jig I created to hold the sidepipe and flange in the correct place while I was working.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69143&d=1497804446

I'm pretty happy with how they turned out considering it's a first attempt. The passenger side should go quicker and also look nicer. I'm planning to paint then wrap the headers instead of ceramic coat. Wrap has way better temperature control but definitely doesn't look as nice. I also know they'll rust out faster but one of my Jeeps has had wrapped headers for 10+ years with no issues and they were cheapo 18 gauge headers. Once I have an issue with these I'll just make another set and hopefully be even better at it a second time....

On to the passenger side!

-TJ

[Geoff H]

Hey TJ, I am always amazed and completely impressed with the craftsmen we have on this forum. Yours is another example - very nicely done!

Geoff

[2FAST4U]

Very nicely done. I'm contemplating making my headers as well

[NAZ]

Good job jeepurz! That looks like a very difficult set to make. I'm impressed and when I say that please consider that this complement is coming from a guy who spent a years in welding school and a couple of decades as a pipe-fitter / welder and have also made many sets of headers from scratch. This was an excellent fist attempt to build from scratch -- they look as good as store-bought, perhaps better.

[Dave Howard]

Now that's innovative workmanship. Hats off to you

[CraigS]

That is nice work. How will you keep the slip fits from leaking?

[Mountain-Metalworks]

Thank you for the compliments, it's always nice when a plan really works and you get to learn something along the way.


Very nicely done. I'm contemplating making my headers as well

I was extremely tentative to start this and wasn't sure I made the right decision. But all you need are relatively basic tools and a boat load of patience, so I'd highly recommend giving it a shot. My main tools have been a regular chop saw with a thin kerf abrasive wheel(3/32"), a die grinder with sanding drum to clean up the internal slag from cutting(a dremel would work just as good...), and a disc sander for the outside slag. Having a cold saw and other tools would be nice but I found not necessary at all. If you enjoy fabrication like I do, it's a very enlightening and educational project. I'll have less than $150 in supplies to complete BOTH headers, so it's a pretty good cost to effort ratio as well. Heck I blew more than that on a few other options that I'm now regretting....


That is nice work. How will you keep the slip fits from leaking?
Craig, there actually aren't any slip joints on the headers. If you're talking about near the sidepipe flange, that's where I had a muffler shop take my 1-7/8" tube and stretch it with a hydraulic stretcher to get out to the 2" diameter of the flange. The stretched tubes are then welded both internally and externally to the flange.

-TJ

[Jim1855]

Looks great.

I'll need to build a custom set as well so I'm looking at examples. I am also starting with an existing set of sidepipes, the headers will be shorter than FFR's.

Thank you for the excellent documentation and photos.

Jim

[mosh1999]

Look professional. Good job.

[GoDadGo]

Way Better Than I Could Produce In My Wildest Dreams!

Very Nice & Super Neat!

[Mountain-Metalworks]

Whew, finally done! This has definitely been an interesting and patience-laden part of the build. I'm certainly glad I built these by hand for a number or reason, notably 1) for the challenge of building headers for the first time, 2) cost savings, and 3) pure necessity based on engine choice. I will surely say I'm glad they're done though. The passenger side front cylinder consumed every bit of my sanity trying to get the angles correct.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69544&d=1498707702

I think what really caused the most frustration was my own focus on making sure the four pipes were as parallel and tightly fit to each other as possible for the long travel down to the side pipe. On further inspection of "factory" or mass-produced headers, the pipes often diverge quite a bit the closer they get to the cylinder head. Had I been less concerned with this, I would have used significantly fewer choice words not to be repeated at a family event.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69546&d=1498707710

I still need to paint the inside and outside with VHT or Eastwood high-temp paint, then wrap with DEI header wrap. For the time being, I plan to just run them to burn the residue from manufacturing off before treating/coating.

I'll stick by my earlier comment, it really isn't as hard building these as you might imagine. Relatively basic tools, LOTS of patience, and a TON of pride once done.

-TJ

[GoDadGo]

TON of pride once done.
-TJ


As It Should Be!
Very Nice Work!
Great Job!

[CraigS]

VERY well done!

[scottiec]

Wow!

[Straversi]

How cool is that? Nice work. Build a 33 next just so you can ditch the side panels and show off that craftsmanship.
-Steve

[Mountain-Metalworks]

How cool is that? Nice work. Build a 33 next just so you can ditch the side panels and show off that craftsmanship.
-Steve

Ironically enough, a 33 is on my short list of future garage projects. I follow quite a few build threads on the 33's, and I'm kinda waiting for at least another generation of the car with FFR upgrades. I do think the steel body is nice, though a bit pricey. After the MKIV is done I'm planning to do an early to mid 60's Willy's pickup though. It's going to be a tow vehicle for the Roadster for getting to track days. I learned in the Jeeping world to tow when you're going to a place with the high potential for breakage. Anyhow, a '65 model year would be really cool, towing a '65(replica) with another '65 would be pretty unique.

-TJ