Coyote Wiring

[Railroad]

Will I be OK, dropping the engine and trans in and then doing the engine harness? I do not have a lot of helping hands and putting the engine in and taking out will be time consuming.

[Straversi]

Once the engine is in, there is very little room to work, so it depends on how you want to route the wiring and how you want to mount the power distribution box, etc. EduardB installed the motor, marked out locations for everything, pulled the motor, wired it up and then dropped the motor and trans back in. I didn't have the help or desire to do it twice so I shamelessly copied his locations and hoped I could get it pre wired and drop the motor in once. I pulled it off but that engine fits in so tight, there is very little wiggle room. Getting a drill motor, rivenut tool or even a wrench back in there to add or move items can be tough.
68397
I have a rear mounted battery and I installed the battery cut off switch centered and just above the trans tunnel. This would be tough if not impossible to do after the motor is in. After I installed my motor I found out my local speed shot sold me the wrong braided fuel lines. They replaced them but getting to those fittings midway up the PS footbox was a no go. I had to drill out the riveted clips securing my hard fuel lines so I could drop them enough to get to a wrench on them.

I'd get as much of the work done in advance as possible.

-Steve

[Railroad]

Thanks Steve. I guess I can use your photo and try to scale the wiring holes and box mounts. I do not think it is super critical?
I might try to get the firewall stuff done, just do not want to have unused holes.

[Straversi]

I probably over analyzed it. Looking at it again, after the engine is in, yes you could cut the holes and mount the PDB after the engine is in. Might look a little different and require a different drill motor but yes it can be done. If you don't have a master cut off or mount that in the rear bulkhead as many do, that changes things as well. I'm tall with a back issues so I try to get everything done when there is plenty of room to work.
-Steve

[edwardb]

Steve's picture covers all the bases. Tons more pictures in my build thread if you want. Link in my sig line below.

Yes, I did put the engine in twice, but with a couple caveats. The only sheet metal I had permanently installed the first time was the firewall and the F-panels. All the footbox pieces had been fitted and drilled, but I had them out for the first time in with the engine. Plus I didn't have the transmission on the engine. So it was real easy to put the bare engine into the wide open bay. Did it myself and it wasn't that hard. Worked great to get everything mocked up and measured. The footbox pieces could be slid in and out to check and locate things as needed. Then out with the engine and finalized everything. Relatively easy with everything wide open. The complete engine and trans went back in the second (and final) time once everything was buttoned up, sheet metal installed, etc. I had a helper for that one and was installed in less than an hour. I recommend this approach and would do it the same way again. That Coyote is a tight fit, and it's not easy to work around the edges of it once it's in.

Note I didn't install a space heater. Don't see one in Steve's picture either. That's another variable to sort out and another good reason to mock up the engine first.

[Railroad]

Thanks for the info. I really needed some encouragement to proceed with this step. I may try dropping the engine in without the trans. I should be able to handle that with just one assistant.

[Railroad]

I do not see those bulkhead grommets in the kit. Where do you get them, and if you have a part number, even better.
thanks,

[wareaglescott]

I do not see those bulkhead grommets in the kit. Where do you get them, and if you have a part number, even better.
thanks,

The grommet on the coyote harness comes already on the harness.

[edwardb]

The grommet on the coyote harness comes already on the harness.

As I recall, weren't there also one or two loose in the controls pack bag of parts? Bottom line though if the question is about the Coyote harness grommets those were included with the parts from Ford. Not in the kit. I didn't have to buy any additional grommets.

[Railroad]

Mine being the 11-14 control pack, may be the reason I do not have them. I stopped by Lowe's but nothing there large enough. I might check with my source and see what he can find. I made the new bracket for fuel press reg. I allowed 1" stand off like edwardb. I received the Moroso plug for the oil level sensor. It is not used on my harness and at this time I will not sub in a temp sensor. An update on my Anniversary gauges. I sent the C temp gauge back for change over to F. Speedhut said they would be able to put the number on the gauge. I also sent the speedo back for turn signals and high beam indicators. Same deal on the speedo and anniversary markings.

[edwardb]

Mine being the 11-14 control pack, may be the reason I do not have them.

Oops. Need to remember that. Changes a lot of things. Usually with that vintage the PDB is put behind the dash and the wiring changes accordingly. Don't know how much the pictures discussed before of the 2015+ wiring applies. Good news about your gauges. Obviously Speedhut changed their tune from a couple years ago with the anniversary gauges. Good for you.