Rear License Plate

[Dave Schwaab]

I remember when the Mk 4 was introduced, there was an issue with the space for the rear license plate. The standard size state license plate would not fit between the license plate light and the trunk handle. Several different solutions were suggested. Some people notched the plate, which most states frown upon. Some people notched the license plate light, which makes me uncomfortable about water and wiring issues. Some did a little of both. Others suggested using a Mk III trunk lid, which I never really objected to the "stinger" anyway. One even suggested using a remote, or electronic, trunk release.

Has this issue been resolved by Factory Five, or is there now an accepted way to deal with it among the builders?

[michael everson]

The issue still exists. I would notch the bottom of the plate where it interferes with the handle.
Mike

[JIMOCO]

I cut a hole in my license and no one has noticed. PADOT rules require that the state name and number be clearly visible. I spoke with my state inspector and with a State Trooper and both agreed that the hole at the bottom was legal. Your DOT should be able to tell you their rules. I added back up lights to a chrome frame around the plate. So far so good. 67904

[conger]

67905

Here's my solution. I turned the whole mechanism upside down. Not period correct but it works for me.

[edwardb]

Agreed the issue still exists. Nothing has changed since the Mk4 was introduced. This is discussed a lot. I wouldn't say there's an accepted solution. There are many and you can decide which works best for you. I personally wouldn't consider a Mk3 trunk lid as a solution. The profile of the Mk4 looks a lot better IMO. But beyond that the hinges are completely different. The Mk3 uses external hinges. The Mk4 uses internal and much improved hinges. Pretty big price to pay to fit a license plate.

I've personally done the license plate notch twice. Known around here as the "Kleiner mod." Wiring or light issues aren't a big concern in my experience. My first Mk4 I left the supplied incandescent bulbs and it always worked fine. My second, recently completed, I switched the incandescent bulbs for LED bulbs. A really nice mod copied from another forum member. MAL-S-WW2 Warm White with Silver Housing, LED license plate bolt lights from superbrightleds.com. Not only do they provide better light, longer life, and lower current draw, they are sealed and water is not an issue. The lights need to modded anyway, so it's really easy just to replace them with the LED's. These are pics from my build. Also requires the different mounting bracket shown, an easy fab from a piece of aluminum.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/th_IMG_4171_zpse7gi9hu2.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4171_zpse7gi9hu2.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/th_IMG_4172_zps1gsxpayl.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4172_zps1gsxpayl.jpg.html)

[mcwho]

67905

Here's my solution. I turned the whole mechanism upside down. Not period correct but it works for me.

Conger,

That's an interesting solution, I have still not solved this issue, I am not a big fan of cutting the plate. Would the handle interfere with the rear bumper if mounted?

[Wylie Coyote]

Knotch the plate. Locate where the centre of the handle would be and use a step drill for a nice clean hole. Two short cuts and a few seconds with a file and you"re in business. Quick and clean. Although frowned upon by State officials, I've never heard of anyone being ticketed for doing it.

[boat737]

I did the Kleiner Mod as well. Added LED's too, looks like the same one's as EdwardB's from SuperbrightLED's. I have mounted the light assembly as high up, and a bit to the right to center it, as needed for the plate. That puts the light housing a tad above the pad on the trunk lid. I'll have that area built up to match and mate with the light housing when the body work starts.

[JIMOCO]

I like the Kleiner mod but I was told by the PA state trooper that he would not stop me just for obscuring the state name but, if he stopped me on another violation, he would add a fine for the license plate. He does that for the people with darkened plexiglass covers as well. He also said it would be an issue if you were photographed from behind by a traffic camera and the state name was not clear. I chose the route of least resistance.

[conger]

I'm not sure if it would or not. So far I'm hoping the govt people won't force us to add bumpers like everything else. 2016 was a big crack down year for Alberta transportation and builders in future years have more hoops to jump through. As you can see they have a real hard-on about lighting. Back up lights, side marker, high brake and daytime running lights all mandatory now.

[CraigS]

Per JIMOCO's picture the name of the state is at the top of the plate. Just some 'visit....' stuff at the bottom. Drill a hole or cut a notch. Where is the state name on your plate?

[edwardb]

Michigan has the name at the top and bottom of the plate. The top is slightly covered by the notched light, but still visible and discernible. I don't expect any issues with local LEO's for the plate as it's installed.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Graduation/th_IMG_1319_zpsbtbghqpe.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Graduation/IMG_1319_zpsbtbghqpe.jpg.html)

[Avalanche325]

I don't worry about modifying the light and rain. I live in Florida. When it rains, it does it big time. No problems with mine.

[AC Bill]

Could you get away with using a different light assembly? This one is smaller, but has a similar look.
https://www.etrailer.com/static/images/pics/L/P/LPL31CB_500.jpg

[Dave Schwaab]

Thank you all for your responses. I know I'm being ridiculous but this is the kind of thing that is off and would just annoy the hell out of me every time I saw it!

I think conger might be on to something. His solution is more acceptable to me than notching the bottom of the plate.

BTW, haven't been able to edit my profile yet so it shows I'm from Mickleton, New Jersey. The name is at the top of the plate so notching the light also creates the visibility issue.

A lot of guys with the Mk III's modified the trunk lid to remove the "stinger" and round it off to a more original look. I may have to do something similar to create proper space for the plate myself. Either that, or always approach my car from the front so that I don't see the plate! It is that annoying to me. (Yeah, I'm a Leo, and I can be that anal sometimes.)

[edwardb]

A lot of guys with the Mk III's modified the trunk lid to remove the "stinger" and round it off to a more original look. I may have to do something similar to create proper space for the plate myself. Either that, or always approach my car from the front so that I don't see the plate! It is that annoying to me. (Yeah, I'm a Leo, and I can be that anal sometimes.)

If that bothers you so much, wait till you try to use the Mk4 internal trunk hinges on the Mk3 lid as I mentioned. Unless you use the external ones like the Mk3 and prior. But that's a huge compromise IMO. The very shape of the Mk3 trunk is why there is so much space for the license plate. Put the two side-by-side and you'll see just how much the difference is. It's not just a matter rounding it off. After having both a Mk3 and a Mk4, looking at a Mk3 trunk vs a Mk4 trunk would bother me way more than the license plate. I guess we're all just anal about different things.

If you don't want to modify the plate or the light, and you want to keep the same light/license plate fixture (and use the Mk4 trunk lid you already have...) boat737's solution is probably the best. Place the light fixture up slightly to fit the plate and re-shape/blend the pad to match it. Very elegant solution. I like it.

[Norm B]

I notched the plate, used some 1/4 outside diameter clear tubing cut along one side as grommet, and don't even notice it anymore. I get lots of comments about the plate. Planning to drive to B.C. this weekend and might have to take one of my guns along for the ride. Some real tree hugging bunny lovers where I'am headed.

Norm

[Norm B]

If notching the plate irritates your OCD wait until you instal the tail lights for the first time. I couldn't handle the pad on the body being too small for the base of the lights. I had to make the pads bigger.

Good Luck

Norm

[Avalanche325]

If you mod the light, you don't have to notch the plate at all. It looks completely fine. This seems to be the most "accepted" way of dealing with it. As long as you don't plan on driving upside down and backwards in the rain, it is a great solution. If you are worried that much about rain, you could easily waterproof it with some lexan and silicone.

A notched plate would bother me.
A MKIII trunk would REALLY bother me.

[CraigS]

If you are seriously considering a MkIII lid, it may not be too bad. I have an old MkII that I did the drop butt mod to. I don't know how exactly that compares to a MkIV body, but the lowered rear makes the pointy trunk lid a LOT less objectionable.

[Avalanche325]

A MKIII trunk would REALLY bother me.

I didn't mean that quite how it looks. I just mean that it would be knocking one of the improvements off of the car that everyone complained about for years. If you like that profile better, go for it.

[Dave Howard]

After getting the licence plate in Alberta in 2014 for my MkIV, I went home and took great care to cut the bottom of the plate to fit around the T handle. I secured it in place and shortly after received a call from the Registry Office. "Mr. Howard, I'm very sorry but we gave you the wrong plate". YIKES. I had to bring it back and get another. It was a fast in and out, and no looking back.

[boat737]

Three more comments.

As for notching or putting a hole in the plate, I don't really care what the state thinks. I just hate ruining a personalized plate, that may just end up on my garage wall in 30 or 40 years (that would make me 100 by then, yeah, that'll work.)

For the California crowd, both the black 60's plate, and the white (current) plate fit in the Kleiner mod without covering up the state name. (mostly, see below.)

And finally....




If you don't want to modify the plate or the light, and you want to keep the same light/license plate fixture (and use the Mk4 trunk lid you already have...) boat737's solution is probably the best. Place the light fixture up slightly to fit the plate and re-shape/blend the pad to match it. Very elegant solution. I like it.

EdwardB just made my day (or year). I am So-o-o-o honored. More than I can convey. Thanks Paul.

[mcwho]

Unfortunately, my State FLORIDA has the words "MYFLORIDA.com" in an arc at the top of the plate, see my avatar

<-----------------------

The Center of the FLORIDA is only about 3/8 inch from the top of the plate.

I think for me a combination of a small notch on the bottom and a Kleiner mod on the top should work. ALso in the county I live in "Volusia" the sheriff is all over tail lights, brake lights, and license plate lights out, which means they really scrutinize rear lights and such here.

[Dave Schwaab]

Whoa, folks. I'm not really serious about using a Mk III trunk, although many were mounted using internal hinges.

I will have to make a decision sometime in the future, probably after I actually have the kit in my garage and have a chance to see how much I would have to notch the light and/or the plate. I like conger's idea with the handle moved to the body below the trunk, if the notching is going to be too drastic.

I may still play with the idea of reshaping the trunk lid, perhaps a little more than what boat737 is doing, just as a thought. Might be fun to see what it would take to truly fix this issue.

[edwardb]

I'm not really serious about using a Mk III trunk, although many were mounted using internal hinges.

Mark at Breeze does sell an internal hinge setup for the Mk3 and earlier. For $139 plus the price of the Mk3 lid you can get what comes standard with the Mk4. Not to mention the extra work and then it looks like a Mk3. Hmmm...


I will have to make a decision sometime in the future, probably after I actually have the kit in my garage and have a chance to see how much I would have to notch the light and/or the plate. I like conger's idea with the handle moved to the body below the trunk, if the notching is going to be too drastic. I may still play with the idea of reshaping the trunk lid, perhaps a little more than what boat737 is doing, just as a thought. Might be fun to see what it would take to truly fix this issue.

So you don't have your kit yet? I'm guessing when all is said and done you'll find plenty of other things that take your attention and energy way more than fitting the license plate. Good luck with your build. :)

[chopthebass]

I cut a hole in my license and no one has noticed. 67904

Hey Jimoco, where did you get the chrome surround? Looks nice.

[Gumball]

Whoa, folks. I'm not really serious about using a Mk III trunk, although many were mounted using internal hinges.

I will have to make a decision sometime in the future, probably after I actually have the kit in my garage and have a chance to see how much I would have to notch the light and/or the plate. I like conger's idea with the handle moved to the body below the trunk, if the notching is going to be too drastic.

I may still play with the idea of reshaping the trunk lid, perhaps a little more than what boat737 is doing, just as a thought. Might be fun to see what it would take to truly fix this issue.

Lots of things to nitpick at on any FFR... but, the company has done a great job of eliminating many of those with the Mk4. We don't see many builders these days talking about doing the drop-butt mod, rolling cockpit edges, straightening crooked scoops, or trying to figure out how to make durable hidden body mounts anymore. Sure, there will always be things that you can improve to your taste and there will likely be things that aren't quite "right" compared to the original cars or other replica brands - say for example, a Kirkham, but most are easy for the builder to tweak to make it just the way they want and probably more builders than not don't even sweat those.

My Mk3.1 has tons of body mods, mainly because I did my own bodywork and also because I was shooting for the most accurate car to the original I could build using a base kit from FFR as a starting point. As for the trunk, I chucked the lid from FFR and went with a third-party supplied part (Karl Gess version - but there are others out there that are still available) to solve that issue.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/IMG_20141025_113701413_HDR_zps2b335bf6.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/IMG_20141025_113701413_HDR_zps2b335bf6.jpg.html)

[JIMOCO]

Thanks, I got it and the LEDs at Pep Boys.

[Dave Schwaab]

Yeah, there are always a lot of things you can do to your kit to build it your way. I know that. I had a Mk III before, which I sold unstarted because my son decided he wanted to go back and finish college. Now he's doing well and I'm retired, so I'm back to planning my build.

A lot of the issues I had with the Mk III have been resolved in the Mk 4. The space for the license plate on the new trunk is really the biggest problem I can see facing, at least without actually starting my build. I will check into a third party trunk lid, when I'm there, and see if that is feasible. Then I will have to see if notching the light and/or plate, raising the light and building up the trunk lid slightly (a la boat737), moving the handle to the body (a la conger) or some combination of them is the way I will finally go.

Thanks again for all your responses. You've really given me food for thought on the solution.

[Olli]

Dave, I have a Mark IV. I ended up doing the Kliener mod. If it would help you at all in deciding what to do, you are more than welcome to come see it.

Olli

[Kpt112]

Agreed the issue still exists. Nothing has changed since the Mk4 was introduced. This is discussed a lot. I wouldn't say there's an accepted solution. There are many and you can decide which works best for you. I personally wouldn't consider a Mk3 trunk lid as a solution. The profile of the Mk4 looks a lot better IMO. But beyond that the hinges are completely different. The Mk3 uses external hinges. The Mk4 uses internal and much improved hinges. Pretty big price to pay to fit a license plate.

I've personally done the license plate notch twice. Known around here as the "Kleiner mod." Wiring or light issues aren't a big concern in my experience. My first Mk4 I left the supplied incandescent bulbs and it always worked fine. My second, recently completed, I switched the incandescent bulbs for LED bulbs. A really nice mod copied from another forum member. MAL-S-WW2 Warm White with Silver Housing, LED license plate bolt lights from superbrightleds.com. Not only do they provide better light, longer life, and lower current draw, they are sealed and water is not an issue. The lights need to modded anyway, so it's really easy just to replace them with the LED's. These are pics from my build. Also requires the different mounting bracket shown, an easy fab from a piece of aluminum.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/th_IMG_4171_zpse7gi9hu2.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4171_zpse7gi9hu2.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/th_IMG_4172_zps1gsxpayl.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4172_zps1gsxpayl.jpg.html)


Ed, can you hook this up to the 12 volt power supply directly?

Thanks
Kevin

[boat737]

I did the Kleiner Mod as well. Added LED's too, looks like the same one's as EdwardB's from SuperbrightLED's. I have mounted the light assembly as high up, and a bit to the right to center it, as needed for the plate. That puts the light housing a tad above the pad on the trunk lid. I'll have that area built up to match and mate with the light housing when the body work starts.

67983




Ed, can you hook this up to the 12 volt power supply directly?

Thanks
Kevin

I did, that is, wired through the headlight switch on the Ron Francis harness (parking light position). No resistors needed.

[edwardb]

Ed, can you hook this up to the 12 volt power supply directly?

Thanks
Kevin

As already stated, yes. It hooks right to the supplied 12 volt RF harness license plate wire. Turns on with the headlight switch per normal. My 20th Anniversary Roadster build is 100% LED lighting. Other than changing the flashers to solid state versions, all of the RF harness was used exactly as is. No special voltage or wiring required.

[Kpt112]

As already stated, yes. It hooks right to the supplied 12 volt RF harness license plate wire. Turns on with the headlight switch per normal. My 20th Anniversary Roadster build is 100% LED lighting. Other than changing the flashers to solid state versions, all of the RF harness was used exactly as is. No special voltage or wiring required.

Thank a bunch, just placed my order. I used crappy led lights I bought from Pep Boys. They look flimsy and flop all over the place. This is a much more elegant solution.

Kevin

[mcwho]

I have finally decided, after years of contemplating the options, the Jeff Kleiner mod is the way I am going. I have started with the mod, turned the bracket around and awaiting delivery of the LEDS to see if I want to use them. Right now I can still use the incandescent bulbs. I am cutting the clear plastic piece today.

[mcwho]

Has anyone actually tried the plate frame that ********** sells ?

They list the frame and the light separately. Just Wonderin !

http://www.**********accessories.com/p-22-license-plate-bracket-rear.aspx

http://www.**********accessories.com/p-281-license-plate-light-l467.aspx

[DaleG]

Or, you can ditch the trunk handle entirely and install an electric latch from a mustang; hit a switch in the cockpit and the trunk opens (with struts, of course). Plate covers the hole in the lid for the latch; dead battery?, a screwdriver thru the whole will key the latch open. More work, but fun.

[JRL16]

I have the ********** bracket and light and it causes more interference with the handle than the FFR parts. I did the Kleiner mod on the FFR parts with led license plate bolts inside. It is the best solution.

[Melb-Mike]

I labored over this for a while. I bought some accessory tube brackets made of billet aluminum from Speedway and made an aluminum tag backing plate that holds a new LED tag light. I mounted the assembly on the rear chrome bumper away from the trunk lid and the trunk latch handle. The hardest thing was running a wire to the light in as much a concealed way as possible. The trunk is very easy to open now and the tag is displayed clearly which keeps Johnny Law off my tail. I polished the billet aluminum brackets so they look like they're chromed as well. However, certainly not like any original Cobra. If anybody is interested, I'll take a picture tomorrow to illustrate. Just let me know.

[Melb-Mike]

68131

Here is a picture of my relocation of the license plate.

[mcwho]

Melb-Mike,
Id like to see, but I have already mostly completed the J Kleiner mod. I labored over this for about a year, and I have the solenoid but decided to not use it.

I also added the LED's and with the original bracket was simple.

Now I just have to fit the bottom and put a hole in the plate and frame.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

I did not bother to flip the light package. I cut the slot in the plastic lenses then notched the plate enough to just miss contacting the lighting unit. A small strip of door edge guard for insulation & some silicone to reseal the light. About 20 minutes work.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazine.com-vbulletin/850x566/80-mkiv_plate_mod_39d92727044075785f867bedebb286bbc04 af174.jpg

A nibbler works very well in shaping the cut on the plate. No problem seeing "North Carolina"

[Dave Schwaab]

Gumball said he used a trunk lid from Karl Gess on his Mk III. I heard of another guy who got one from Sankuer Composites.

Are there third party suppliers who can provide an alternative trunk lid for the Mk 4?

[grluisi150]

Or you can take my approach and get rid of the handle and have a remote trunk release. Trunk release from a 95 mustang, Thanks Rex.

Gary

68169 68170

[Papa]

Or you can take my approach and get rid of the handle and have a remote trunk release. Trunk release from a 95 mustang, Thanks Rex.

Gary

68169 68170

I'll be looking at this option down the road. Do you have any notes on what you had to do to get it to fit? I'm assuming you have relocated your battery to the engine compartment?

[Dave Schwaab]

While the idea of an electric or remote cable release sounds interesting, I think I prefer conger's idea of simply inverting the system and putting the handle in the body just below the trunk lid. No problem with dead batteries, broken cables or wire faults of any kind.

[grluisi150]

Battery is in a drop box in the trunk. Under the plate is a backup keyed cylinder, mechanical override if the battery dies. I had to epoxy a steel bar inside the trunk lid to bolt the trunk release to.

Gary

[Dave Schwaab]

grluisi150, so you have a standard flat key opening hidden under the plate? Just move the plate out of the way and open the trunk with the key? Sounds like a simple and effective backup plan. Maybe I will have to consider that.

[grluisi150]

Yes, and I had a locksmith key it with the same as the hood locks.
Gary

[Dave Schwaab]

68169

So the silver piece on the right of the latch is the new key mechanism. Just loosen one screw and swing the plate out of the way to get access for the key, if it should become necessary. Looking like a pretty good option. Thanks.

[edwardb]

For those who are removing or relocating the handle, how are you lifting the trunk lid once it's released? The handles also serves this purpose, and without it, not sure what you'd grab to lift the lid. Once it's finished, the trunk lid is surprisingly heavy, plus it's hinged from the opposite edge. So you have to lift nearly the entire weight when opening. Gas assist struts are possible, but the ones normally used barely hold the lid when open, let alone provide all that much lift assist. It would be possible to use stronger struts, but even in using the standard ones I've found it challenging to get the hinges aligned and the lid closed/flush with the body. The struts pushing against the hinges even while closed doesn't play nice in my experience. I didn't use struts on my last build. Bottom line, very common for changes to affect something else. You almost never can make one change in isolation. The pluses and minuses must be considered.

To the OP, my only comment after following this thread is wait until you get into the build. If this bothers you, I'm wondering how you're going to react to the DS door alignment (or should I say lack of...), the asymmetrical body, radiator mounting, windshield mounting, instrument panel mounting, wiring, side pipe alignment, the list could go on. There are challenges with these build. This isn't one of the big ones IMO. :o

[Jeff Kleiner]

Sorry if it offends anyone I can't watch without comment any longer. This is a 20 minute fix and then you can move on to real challenges. Some of you guys are making it much harder than it needs to be. Good luck with whatever route you take.

Jeff

[Dave Schwaab]

Jeff, I meant no offense when I started this thread, and I take no offense from your comments. Your solution IS simple and quick. I can readily understand why so many builders have chosen to follow your example. In fact, I may end up joining the group, since I have found and saved your thread on the other forum.

I was just hoping that I could find a way to mount the plate without drawing the ire of any LEO's for "altering" it with notches or "hiding" it under the light. And I'm doing this all before I have even ordered my kit, just so I have it in my build plan. Truth is, until I actually have a kit and try to fit a plate, I won't know exactly how I am going to do it. But I do appreciate everyone's help and suggestions.

Thanks.

[edwardb]

Sorry if it offends anyone I can't watch without comment any longer. This is a 20 minute fix and then you can move on to real challenges. Some of you guys are making it much harder than it needs to be. Good luck with whatever route you take.

Jeff

Hey Jeff. I assume you saw my post at about the same time as yours. I was feeling the same way, so you weren't the only one. Just took me more words to say it.

Imagine that. :D

[Jeff Kleiner]

Imagine that. :D

;)

Jeff

PS: Did that "Paid by the word" check ever arrive? See ya' at LCS!

[grluisi150]

For those who are removing or relocating the handle, how are you lifting the trunk lid once it's released? The handles also serves this purpose, and without it, not sure what you'd grab to lift the lid. Once it's finished, the trunk lid is surprisingly heavy, plus it's hinged from the opposite edge. So you have to lift nearly the entire weight when opening. Gas assist struts are possible, but the ones normally used barely hold the lid when open, let alone provide all that much lift assist. It would be possible to use stronger struts, but even in using the standard ones I've found it challenging to get the hinges aligned and the lid closed/flush with the body. The struts pushing against the hinges even while closed doesn't play nice in my experience. I didn't use struts on my last build. Bottom line, very common for changes to affect something else. You almost never can make one change in isolation. The pluses and minuses must be considered.

To the OP, my only comment after following this thread is wait until you get into the build. If this bothers you, I'm wondering how you're going to react to the DS door alignment (or should I say lack of...), the asymmetrical body, radiator mounting, windshield mounting, instrument panel mounting, wiring, side pipe alignment, the list could go on. There are challenges with these build. This isn't one of the big ones IMO. :o


Not a problem, I used gas struts. I went with 40 pound struts They lift the trunk 3/4 way by themselves and their very little weight to use the light fixture to raise the trunk lid all the way. The gas struts make it simple to install a switch on for internal trunk lights. 40 pound struts have minimal effect on the lid shape.

Gary

[edwardb]

Not a problem, I used gas struts. I went with 40 pound struts They lift the trunk 3/4 way by themselves and their very little weight to use the light fixture to raise the trunk lid all the way. The gas struts make it simple to install a switch on for internal trunk lights. 40 pound struts have minimal effect on the lid shape.

Gary

Sounds like you have it sorted out and a good setup. Great. Quick clarification. My point about the gas struts had nothing to do with the lid shape. My experience with the Mk4 style struts that push on the hinges, assuming that's what you have, is they make it hard to align the hinges. Maybe I'm the only one that had this issue. But for #7750, I never was able to get the hinges adjusted to keep the struts from pushing the edge of the trunk lid above the body opening. It's pretty subtle, but something that always bothered me. Enough that I didn't use struts on my last build.

[JIMOCO]

I had the same problem with gas struts. Either they were two week to hold the lid open or so strong that they pushed the lid up and the lines were no longer smooth. With the stronger struts, If I did not lock the trunk, the vibration would work it open and the struts would open the trunk lid. No fun on a busy highway.

[Jeff Kleiner]

...My experience with the Mk4 style struts that push on the hinges, assuming that's what you have, is they make it hard to align the hinges. Maybe I'm the only one that had this issue...

You are not alone my friend. I've encountered it on a few cars and in fact just heard from an owner who added them to a car I did for him a couple of years ago---same thing; when the struts are off the lid aligns perfectly but with them on the hinge arm is loaded in such a way that the forward lip goes up. I told him that I'll work on adjusting it at LCS.

Jeff

[Dave Schwaab]

Sounds like you have it sorted out and a good setup. Great. Quick clarification. My point about the gas struts had nothing to do with the lid shape. My experience with the Mk4 style struts that push on the hinges, assuming that's what you have, is they make it hard to align the hinges. Maybe I'm the only one that had this issue. But for #7750, I never was able to get the hinges adjusted to keep the struts from pushing the edge of the trunk lid above the body opening. It's pretty subtle, but something that always bothered me. Enough that I didn't use struts on my last build.

So. It was subtle. And yet, it always bothered you. You DO get it! That's exactly the way the plate issue has always bothered me.

Again, I apologize for any feathers I have ruffled in starting this thread, but I am just trying to find the best solution to incorporate into my build plan.

I understand that in the original design, the "T" handle was used to lift the trunk lid. But when you use a remote release, you don't really need the struts to be so strong as to lift the lid all the way, or even most of the way, up. All you really need is sufficient lift to get your fingers under the edge of the trunk lid so you can lift it just as if you were using the handle. Seems to me, that kind of strength should not make the set up adjustments that difficult. Anybody have a different solution to getting that initial lift of the lid?

[DaleG]

Not a problem, I used gas struts. I went with 40 pound struts They lift the trunk 3/4 way by themselves and their very little weight to use the light fixture to raise the trunk lid all the way. The gas struts make it simple to install a switch on for internal trunk lights. 40 pound struts have minimal effect on the lid shape.

Gary

Same here with the struts.

As to the 20 minute job, some of us just like to mess with stuff because it may be neat , especially if it takes more time;) and takes some figuring-out.

[canuck1]

Anyone having concerns about using gas struts attached to the MK IV trunk hinges should consider Mike Everson's earlier design trunk strut kit. While more visible attached to the underside of the trunk lid, they don't have the alignment issues the later design (attaching to interior hinges) has caused for some. I have used them on both MK III and MK IV trunk lids (both fit with hidden trunk hinges) without any issues. They also free up storage space in the front trunk area.

Sean

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Found that if you just snug them up enough to hold their position you can close the lid then push down on it to get it aligned. The open it just enough to get your hand & a wench on the nuts. Tighten as much as you van then open it further to finish tightening them.

Don't remember how many pounds the struts are but they are just strong enough to hold the lid up in a breeze & will not lift the lid from its closed position.

[boat737]

How did we get from Rear License Plate to trunk hinges?

That said, concerning the gas struts on the MK4 hinge, the whole weight of the trunk lid (and plate and light) is articulated on those 4 little 1/4 inch bolts that attach the hinge to the trunk lid. I don't know how much the fiberglass structure is beefed up and strengthened at that mounting point, but it better be substantial. That's probably why in the closed position, the struts and hinge are pushing and deforming the mounting point. Strengthen that mounting pad, and alignment problem should diminish or go away.

[Dave Howard]

Hey Jeff. I assume you saw my post at about the same time as yours. I was feeling the same way, so you weren't the only one. Just took me more words to say it.

Imagine that. :D

Hahaha. But can't let it go.

[edwardb]

Hahaha. But can't let it go.

Reported. Enough already.

[rezell3d]

Solution. Put the trunk on a electric solenoid and do away with the trunk handle.

[Buzzweasel]

Agreed the issue still exists. Nothing has changed since the Mk4 was introduced. This is discussed a lot. I wouldn't say there's an accepted solution. There are many and you can decide which works best for you. I personally wouldn't consider a Mk3 trunk lid as a solution. The profile of the Mk4 looks a lot better IMO. But beyond that the hinges are completely different. The Mk3 uses external hinges. The Mk4 uses internal and much improved hinges. Pretty big price to pay to fit a license plate.

I've personally done the license plate notch twice. Known around here as the "Kleiner mod." Wiring or light issues aren't a big concern in my experience. My first Mk4 I left the supplied incandescent bulbs and it always worked fine. My second, recently completed, I switched the incandescent bulbs for LED bulbs. A really nice mod copied from another forum member. MAL-S-WW2 Warm White with Silver Housing, LED license plate bolt lights from superbrightleds.com. Not only do they provide better light, longer life, and lower current draw, they are sealed and water is not an issue. The lights need to modded anyway, so it's really easy just to replace them with the LED's. These are pics from my build. Also requires the different mounting bracket shown, an easy fab from a piece of aluminum.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/th_IMG_4171_zpse7gi9hu2.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4171_zpse7gi9hu2.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/th_IMG_4172_zps1gsxpayl.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4172_zps1gsxpayl.jpg.html)

Hey, I know this thread is old but thanks for the info and pix. Did you need to do anything to regulate the power to the LEDs?

[edwardb]

Hey, I know this thread is old but thanks for the info and pix. Did you need to do anything to regulate the power to the LEDs?

Nope. They work just fine on the +12V chassis wiring.