adjusting ride height

[chopthebass]

My shock absorbers didn't come with a C-spanner and I was wondering where I can buy one? Its for a MK4.
If someone knows where I can buy a universal one please let me know!

[boat737]

Breeze has one. http://breezeautomotive.com/details.php?prod_id=739

[RoadRacer]

https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/spanner-wrenches?sortby=Default&sortorder=Ascending&keyword=spanner%20wrench&kr=spanner%20wrench

[edwardb]

Take the weight off with a floor jack and use your hands. Easy.

[cgundermann]

And by using your hands, you won't leave tooling marks from the spanner wrench...

[GoDadGo]

Take the weight off with a floor jack and use your hands. Easy.

That's how I did it, but if you want a spanner wrench, here are a couple for you:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Coil-Over-Spanner-Wrench,2681.html

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/AFCO-20110-Coilover-Spanner-Wrench,24621.html

Good Luck & Happy Leveling!

Steve

[chopthebass]

But with the chassis on jack stands I can only take up the slack by hand, then I need to compress the spring a little. That's what I can't do.

[edwardb]

But with the chassis on jack stands I can only take up the slack by hand, then I need to compress the spring a little. That's what I can't do.

Really? Interesting. I've never had one that needed to be adjusted against the spring when the suspension is hanging. The recommended practice is to start with the adjusters barely snug against the springs, again with the suspension hanging. Then put it on the ground, roll back and forth a bit to settle the suspension, and check ride height. At that point, ride height for me has always been high. Typically an inch or more. Then the adjustment starts, a turn or two at a time, again with the suspension loose, and always turning the front and rear pair exactly the same amount. At that point, the springs start to get pretty loose when the suspension is hanging. That's why the instructions to use tie wraps on the shock hat to keep the springs seated in the hat. This process seems to work pretty well. I've been cautioned to not turn individual adjusters unless using corner scales. Always in front and rear pairs.

Do you have something other than the stock springs or coilovers? Maybe that's the difference.

[DaveS53]

It's not common to be able to fully adjust ride height without a spanner wrench. The softer the spring chosen, the greater the preload needed to achieve a particular height. It might require 1-2 inches of preload on some springs and you're not going to do that by hand.

Also, some brands have a lock ring, so that requires two wrenches. My ride tech coil-overs have a pinch bolt to lock the adjuster ring, but the wrench is still needed.

[chopthebass]

Ed, I have the standard suspension parts that came with the kit. I will try again.

[Duke]

But with the chassis on jack stands I can only take up the slack by hand, then I need to compress the spring a little. That's what I can't do.

Why are you raising the ride height/compressing the spring? To lower it, increase the gap between the spring and the spring perch. You shouldn't have the spring compressed when the shock/spring combo isn't under the weight of the car.

[chopthebass]

All I can tell you is with the car on jack stands, and the perch wound up so its touching the spring, the ride height is too low. What do I do to raise the ride height? I thought I need to raise the perch more.

[GSides9]

My coupe worked out just like Paul described. When the distance between the frame rails and ground was the recommended 4 inches, there was a gap between the spring and its perch when jacked up on the frame. I raised mine up to 5 inches to get some oil pan clearance. That required a wrench. Now I need a different oil pan so I can put it back down where it belongs.

HTH, Glen

[mcwho]

DO NOT get the MOROSO Brand spanner. MY alignment guy tried it and the end piece that's supposed to fit into the hole was too big, he tried to grind it down and it still did not work. He ended up using a center punch.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchResultsPageCmd?Ntt=moroso+spanner&requestYear=&storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1&year=&make=&model=&submodel=&engine=&Nrpp=&No=&persistYmm=false

[Duke]

Here's the wrench that works with the FFR Koni adjustment holes (round).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CC5A0U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[CraigS]

Do you have a set screw in the collar? If so remove it and trash it. After removing it, check the threads which may have been damaged by the screw. Also note that sometimes the threaded collar wants to rotate along w/ the collar so you get no adjustment even as the collar rotates.

[rich grsc]

What ride height are you trying? Mine is 4" F, 4 3/4" R, and I have over 1/2" free play between spring and collar, both front and rear.

[mcwho]

Because I live on a non evenly paved road with some dirt sections, I had my ride height set at 4 3/4 front and 5 1/4 rear.

[Boydster]

All I can tell you is with the car on jack stands, and the perch wound up so its touching the spring, the ride height is too low. What do I do to raise the ride height? I thought I need to raise the perch more.

Hey Chop, did you ever discover anything wrong with your setup? Mine is doing the exact same thing... frame is too low with the collar barely on the spring. Had to screw it down another 3/4" to get good ride height. Been posting about it in my build thread... when I have the ride height set and jack the front end, my springs never come loose... always compressed.

[rich grsc]

Do you have the correct length shock? It sounds like it's too short?

[Boydster]

Do you have the correct length shock? It sounds like it's too short?

Yeah, my front shocks are a bit over 15" extended, as called out in the manual.

Thanks...

[SteveHsr]

If the spring is seated properly, maybe you need a shorter spring.

[Boydster]

If the spring is seated properly, maybe you need a shorter spring.

Well, the adjustment is coming in, that is, I can set the frame height. But its odd that I have to lower the collar to compress the spring to raise the frame to get the correct height... my frame starts out low. Whereas others have had to raise the collar, let the spring loose in order to drop the frame to their desired ride height. Some folks start out hi, some start out low.

I'm going to rework the ride heights tomorrow, it seems I've set them higher that they need to be. I'll see where it ends up.

I really dont think anything is wrong with my car... 351/427 engine, TKO600, no big changes or add-ons to make it heavier.

[Gromit]

perhaps we have a clarification problem going on here... Collar up or down would be different depending on how you mount the KONI shock right? if you put the shock body on the bottom or top, then the direction you move the collar is reversed, for example shock body down then if you lower the collar = lower ride height, and conversely shock body UP, then lowering the collar = taller ride height.

I don't think anybody above has suggested which way they mounted the shocks and I think that would matter in this conversation.

Chris AKA Gromit.

[Boydster]

perhaps we have a clarification problem going on here... Collar up or down would be different depending on how you mount the KONI shock right? if you put the shock body on the bottom or top, then the direction you move the collar is reversed, for example shock body down then if you lower the collar = lower ride height, and conversely shock body UP, then lowering the collar = taller ride height.

I don't think anybody above has suggested which way they mounted the shocks and I think that would matter in this conversation.

Chris AKA Gromit.

You're very correct, Chris. My shocks are all shock body up, spring down. The collar is on top of the spring.

[sbhunter]

Manual shows mounting the rear shocks with the spring up which is opposite the front pair. I don’t know if it matters either way but I’m guessing yours are upside down compared to most others which explains the confusion and different results. Maybe someone can clarify why the manual has them set up this way?

[edwardb]

Red Koni shocks can be mounted either body up or body down. Doesn't change how the shock works. As long as it and the coilover clears everything. Typically fronts are mounted body up and rears body down for the Red Konis. Silver double adjustable shocks can only be mounted body down in all four places.

My references to adjusting ride height (back on topic) was always tightening (raising ride height) or loosening (lowering ride height) the coilover. Whether that's up or down with the collar.

[jwebb]

Do you have the shock mounted in the lower hole on the shock tower? This picture shows incorrect mounting location I first used..82851

[Boydster]

Do you have the shock mounted in the lower hole on the shock tower? This picture shows incorrect mounting location I first used..82851

I only have 1 hole... no choice.

Front shocks are spring down, collar on top. Rear shocks are spring up, collar underneath. Did it that way on the front for convenience, on the rear to clear stuff.

Today I set the rear shocks at 1-1/2" from collar to lip of threaded tube, both sides equal, spring is drop-away loose when jacked. On the ground, frame height is L 4-1/4, R 4-1/8. I cannot go any lower because the shock collar will be into the lower shock bracket. Shocks are spaced as far aft as possible on the lower bracket.

Today I set the front shocks at 3.0" from the lip of the threaded tube, both sides equal, spring is still compressed when jacked. On the ground, frame height at the front suspension upright is L 4-1/16, R 4-1/4, best I can measure. Springs dont rebound exactly the same every time.

This is where I'm going to do everything else. I dont know why mine is different from so many others... most everyone has a car that sits high and loose front springs when jacked... I do not. I tried setting the front collars just on the springs (maybe hand tight) and the frame was about 3" off the ground.

[rich grsc]

Pictures!!

[Itchief]

What is the spring rate of the front springs? 550 lb

Rick

[MPTech]

I used a rubber strap wrench, like this:
82894

[Boydster]

What is the spring rate of the front springs? 550 lb

Rick

500 is printed on the spring.

[Itchief]

My only guess would be that you have a set of 300 lb springs that are labeled 500 measure the spring compression to get a estimated spring rate

I have a set of 550 lb springs that you can have for the cost of shipping it you want to try them

Good luck

Rick

[CraigS]

Boydster do you have the DA Konis? They may be a little different configuration than the usual red Konis. Also Koni makes different length eyes if you get to where you can't get the height you want. OTOH 4 to 4 1/4 inch is a very common height at the front so you may be done.

[Gromit]

Pictures!!

Pictures are worth a thousand words, agreed. or we could just keep typing

Chris AKA Gromit

[Boydster]

Boydster do you have the DA Konis? They may be a little different configuration than the usual red Konis. Also Koni makes different length eyes if you get to where you can't get the height you want. OTOH 4 to 4 1/4 inch is a very common height at the front so you may be done.

Hey Craig. No, just the regular red Konis that come stock with a complete kit.

Maybe it's because my iron block 351/427 weighs about 550 lbs. The coyote looks like about 445 and a 5.0 about 411. More weight means you start out lower on the springs and have to crank down to get the frame up.

[Boydster]

Pictures are worth a thousand words, agreed. or we could just keep typing

Chris AKA Gromit

Here's a bunch of words.

I think I have it set pretty well now, so not going to undo it all for pics. Mostly just really wondering why my frame height starts out quite a bit lower than most others... Much as the OP of this thread. I've come to the conclusion that its all in engine weight.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82928&d=1521674025
This 3" on the LF equals 4-1/16" on the frame height measured at the upright.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82926&d=1521673689

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82925&d=1521673671

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82924&d=1521673662

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82923&d=1521673631

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82922&d=1521673622

[boat737]

Hi Boyd.

If it means anything, my setup is very similar to yours. 500# front spring, 350# rear spring. 427 iron Dart. At full droop, my rear spring is off the collar nearly an inch, for a rear ride height of 4.25. On the front, at full droop, the spring is still compressed to where it needs a spanner to adjust it, at a ride height of 3.9 inches. My measurement from top of collar to top of threaded housing (per your picture) is 3.05 driver side, 2.9 pass side. It did seem weird to me to have slack in the rear spring, and compression on the front, but I figured as long as I have plenty of adjustment room on the threaded housing (and I do), I'm good with it.

Pet the dog.

[Itchief]

Boyd

I have a 390FE with iron heads that weights about 650 lbs I could not get the ride height set with the 500 lb FFR springs no matter how much I preloaded the coil overs the ride height would settle down to about 3.5 inches after a few hundred miles

To get the correct ride height I had to install 9 inch 550 lb springs on the front coil overs and still had to preload the coil overs about 3/4 of an inch 6 turns

My weight is about 2700 lbs with about 1700 lbs front and 1000 lbs rear. The reduced weight on the rear springs made the ride very harsh and I replaced the 350 lb springs with 250 lb 9 inch springs which helped the ride but hurt the handling

To help correct the handling I installed anti sway bars front and rear now I am happy with the ride height and the handling

I’m sure that it doesn’t handle as well as one with a 50/50 weight balance but you have to do the best you can with what you have


Rick

[Boydster]

Hi Boyd.

If it means anything, my setup is very similar to yours. 500# front spring, 350# rear spring. 427 iron Dart. At full droop, my rear spring is off the collar nearly an inch, for a rear ride height of 4.25. On the front, at full droop, the spring is still compressed to where it needs a spanner to adjust it, at a ride height of 3.9 inches. My measurement from top of collar to top of threaded housing (per your picture) is 3.05 driver side, 2.9 pass side. It did seem weird to me to have slack in the rear spring, and compression on the front, but I figured as long as I have plenty of adjustment room on the threaded housing (and I do), I'm good with it.

Pet the dog.

Bingo. Exactly what I needed to hear. My rear springs do the same as yours and it sounds like the fronts are very, very close with mine maybe still needing to settle some.

Dogs are awesome.

[Boydster]

Boyd

I have a 390FE with iron heads that weights about 650 lbs I could not get the ride height set with the 500 lb FFR springs no matter how much I preloaded the coil overs the ride height would settle down to about 3.5 inches after a few hundred miles

To get the correct ride height I had to install 9 inch 550 lb springs on the front coil overs and still had to preload the coil overs about 3/4 of an inch 6 turns

My weight is about 2700 lbs with about 1700 lbs front and 1000 lbs rear. The reduced weight on the rear springs made the ride very harsh and I replaced the 350 lb springs with 250 lb 9 inch springs which helped the ride but hurt the handling

To help correct the handling I installed anti sway bars front and rear now I am happy with the ride height and the handling

I’m sure that it doesn’t handle as well as one with a 50/50 weight balance but you have to do the best you can with what you have


Rick

Thanks for the response Rick. With your post, I'm thinking these front springs, although pretty stiff, are quite responsive to the different weights we place in the front of these cars. Some need to raise collars to lower the frame, others need to lower collars to raise the frame and yet others have to replace the springs completely. Simple as 100 lbs can make quite a difference.

Nice work on your car, getting yourself satisfied.

[CraigS]

Boat and anyone else reading here, a word of caution. Your spring collars should be the same height left and right. Unless you have the equipment to do corner weights, the best process is to make the car geometrically the same on both sides and trust that FFR welded the frame together correctly (which I do). think of it this way. Take a 4 leg table sitting on a flat surface. Each leg is pushing on the floor w/ the same weight. Now think of replacing those legs w/ adjustable springs that are all set to the same length. Again, each leg/spring is pushing on the floor w/ the same weight. Now take the LF spring and make it 1/8 inch shorter and adjust the RF spring and make it 1/8 inch longer. The table will still be sitting exactly the same, not leaning either way. But the RF spring will be pushing on the floor w/ more weight than the LF. So the LF will be more likely to lock up under hard braking.

[boat737]

Boat and anyone else reading here, a word of caution. Your spring collars should be the same height left and right. Unless you have the equipment to do corner weights, the best process is to make the car geometrically the same on both sides and trust that FFR welded the frame together correctly (which I do). think of it this way. Take a 4 leg table sitting on a flat surface. Each leg is pushing on the floor w/ the same weight. Now think of replacing those legs w/ adjustable springs that are all set to the same length. Again, each leg/spring is pushing on the floor w/ the same weight. Now take the LF spring and make it 1/8 inch shorter and adjust the RF spring and make it 1/8 inch longer. The table will still be sitting exactly the same, not leaning either way. But the RF spring will be pushing on the floor w/ more weight than the LF. So the LF will be more likely to lock up under hard braking.

Good point, thanks Craig. When I started the process, they were equal (side to side), but after going up and down a few times, I must have missed a turn on one side, that would be about my .15 inch (3.05 vs 2.90) difference I have. I'll even them up. It took me a couple tries to figure out that because of the mechanical advantage on the shock on the A-arm, a movement of .1 inch on the shock gets me .2 inch or more on the ride height change. (The rears are easier with a near 1 for 1 change.) I haven't measured the rear shock collars lately, but I'll check and even them up as well.

[Boydster]

Boat and anyone else reading here, a word of caution. Your spring collars should be the same height left and right. Unless you have the equipment to do corner weights, the best process is to make the car geometrically the same on both sides and trust that FFR welded the frame together correctly (which I do). think of it this way. Take a 4 leg table sitting on a flat surface. Each leg is pushing on the floor w/ the same weight. Now think of replacing those legs w/ adjustable springs that are all set to the same length. Again, each leg/spring is pushing on the floor w/ the same weight. Now take the LF spring and make it 1/8 inch shorter and adjust the RF spring and make it 1/8 inch longer. The table will still be sitting exactly the same, not leaning either way. But the RF spring will be pushing on the floor w/ more weight than the LF. So the LF will be more likely to lock up under hard braking.

Thanks Craig.

[SteveHsr]

Are pictures taken at ride height? The upper A arm angles ( downward to the outside) indicate higher than normal ride height or very short tire. They should be flat or tilting slightly up at the spindle. I don't know if my perception of the photos is correct but looks to me like chassis is set too high.

[Boydster]

Are pictures taken at ride height? The upper A arm angles ( downward to the outside) indicate higher than normal ride height or very short tire. They should be flat or tilting slightly up at the spindle. I don't know if my perception of the photos is correct but looks to me like chassis is set too high.

They are angled down slightly, thats with a 4" frame height. I figure it will settle some? Tires are 255/40-17 Nitto NT05 on 17x9 AR wheels.
Thanks for the input. I can drop the front height some, but I fear enough to get the arms straight would be drastic low.

[SteveHsr]

I should have said A arm angles ideally are flat to tilting upward. My car has fabricated spindles and relocated Upper and lower arms. Factory A arm mount locations may result in different range of angles for given ride height.
Picture of driver side actually looks pretty close to flat.

[Al_C]

It's always fun to restart an old thread, so here we go. Setting ride height was this afternoon's activity. I thought I had a pretty good idea how I was going to go about it, but found this thread. Quite useful, actually. But... a question: the front is equally set right/left at 4 1/2 inches. I was hoping to get it around 5, but I can't turn the collars any more (by hand). The rear, without touching it, turned out to be about 5 1/2 on both sides at the frame. (The round part of the frame, in front of the welded pieces that are just a bit lower at the very rear of the frame tubes) It appears (from some of the above posts) that it's not uncommon to have the rear a little higher. What about an inch higher? Too much? The solution would be to get one of the above listed spanners (oh boy! a new tool!). I like GoDad's option at 6.95 vs. the Amazon wrench at 30+ bucks, but I'm not convinced it would fit. So - raise front or leave it alone? GoDad wrench or Duke wrench? Thanks!

[GoDadGo]

Al_C,

I've used a Rubber Strap Wrench too.
That option is an easy one to come by too.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-2-Piece-Household-Tool-Set/50029434

Steve

[Jeff Kleiner]

It's always fun to restart an old thread, so here we go. Setting ride height was this afternoon's activity. I thought I had a pretty good idea how I was going to go about it, but found this thread. Quite useful, actually. But... a question: the front is equally set right/left at 4 1/2 inches. I was hoping to get it around 5, but I can't turn the collars any more (by hand). The rear, without touching it, turned out to be about 5 1/2 on both sides at the frame. (The round part of the frame, in front of the welded pieces that are just a bit lower at the very rear of the frame tubes) It appears (from some of the above posts) that it's not uncommon to have the rear a little higher. What about an inch higher? Too much? The solution would be to get one of the above listed spanners (oh boy! a new tool!). I like GoDad's option at 6.95 vs. the Amazon wrench at 30+ bucks, but I'm not convinced it would fit. So - raise front or leave it alone? GoDad wrench or Duke wrench? Thanks!

You're actually kinda' high Al. I like 4" front and 4 1/2" to 4 3/4" rear. No tools would be necessary to accomplish this because you'd be loosening the collar away from the spring, not compressing it.

Jeff

[GoDadGo]

You're actually kinda' high Al. I like 4" front and 4 1/2" to 4 3/4" rear. No tools would be necessary to accomplish this because you'd be loosening the collar away from the spring, not compressing it.

Jeff

If you are a Chevy Guy and a 1st time builder then you 4.5" for the front and 5.0" for the rear will suit you fine; however, if you are a True Blue Ford Guy, then 4.5" for the front and 4.75" for the rear as Sir Jeffski recommended.

[SteveHsr]

Tire Diameter is a consideration, if you have short front tires compared to others. Are photos of car on the ground? Picture of right front looks like A arm angled down.

[SteveHsr]

Forgot my older post, senior moment.

[Al_C]

OK, I'll lower the rear and leave the front alone. Jeff, you're welcome to tweak it when we get the car to Bloomington! :)