Idea for hidden switches

[Svtfreak]

Ok. I will have ac and power windows. I want my dash as clean as pisssible. Gauges and light switch. That's it.

I will need window switches and ac controls but I don't want them plainly visible. I don't want my console to tie up into dash.

That's said, I'm thinking about a door with shock to hide everything under. Say, in console.

However, now in thinking about a bench seat so the door might be under a kiddo sitting in center (long story there lol). Do you guys have any trick ideas of where to hide stuff? Need window switches, ac/heat controls and a iPhone plug (will go to amp for music instead of installing a radio) and maybe a couple other things.

So, any of you guys got any trick ideas for hiding all that stuff out of sight to get as clean an interior as possible?

[DarthTedious]

I have embedded my window switches and door lock switch on the bottom flange of the dash facing downward as suggested in the manual which seems to work pretty well for those. A/C controls might be a bit more tricky since they are larger so I located them on the dash... good luck with those, no help here.

[myjones]

Ok.
However, now in thinking about a bench seat so the door might be under a kiddo sitting in center (long story there lol).
So, any of you guys got any trick ideas for hiding all that stuff out of sight to get as clean an interior as possible?

There has been one 33 built already with a bench seat, it looked very nice. IIRC that car was sold and the new owner changed
it back to buckets. Anyone else remember the details so SVT can go look at the build thread ??
Dale
7 Liter Hemi 33

[Svtfreak]

I have embedded my window switches and door lock switch on the bottom flange of the dash facing downward as suggested in the manual which seems to work pretty well for those. A/C controls might be a bit more tricky since they are larger so I located them on the dash... good luck with those, no help here.
I did that on my roadster, and while it works, I think I want to do it differently on this one. But that is an option. I hid the speedo and clock buttons, heater control and line lock that way on it. Also have a master ignition switch, can override and wide hand gauge and it's button Duden in the other. While it does hide it, it's kind of a pain also.


There has been one 33 built already with a bench seat, it looked very nice. IIRC that car was sold and the new owner changed
it back to buckets. Anyone else remember the details so SVT can go look at the build thread ??
Dale
7 Liter Hemi 33

I remember seeing that thread. Actually it's where I got the idea. Just can't seem to find it again. Yes please. Any help on that thread would be appreciated. Thanks!

[DaveS53]

The AC control would be tough, since there is a capillary tube that runs from the evaporator coil to the control. You also need to be able so read what's printed on the rotary knobs unless you memorize the positions for each notch on the knobs. The control is also hard to install - you need good access to the back side.

http://www.vintageair.com/Instructions2013/904912-RUA.pdf

Things like the ignition switch, wiper control and headlight switch can all be mounted under the dash with the knobs and key pointing down. Putting a key into a slot you can't see would get old, quickly.

https://get.google.com/albumarchive/104898847835936248126/album/AF1QipPhodipMKZq3GbK2gONl_Cm93jaURkn2NxRNtQu/AF1QipOmSan1MFFiHjMV5ENdZNkMnhT-tZJI1ocrQgas

[erlihemi]

I lost track of your build configuration, but if its an automatic you may have a spot left of the steering wheel to hide the A/C Controls. I had a thought of running a harness in the tunnel (or frame) to the rear and through the back of the doors for the windows. This takes a lot of work and planning, but would be a luxurious addition to a car with automatic and cruise control?? Keep in mind that some guys cant reach the dash with seat belts on... I'm not saying you have alligator arms and giraffe legs, but, with a bench seat you probably won't have Simpsons Harness, so I'm thinking window controls on the drivers door and A/C in the left corner of the dash. That way you have control over the passenger's environment and an excuse for a really cool armrest. The other thought is mounting something on the column assuming you aren't putting a 5" tach there.

Enjoy:)

[erlihemi]

I haven't seen anyone go the airplane route and put controls above the window on a hard top? If the top is staying on you can fish wires through the pillar. I'll be doing this for the old style wipers since I'm giving up on swapping between roadster and coupe.

[DaveS53]

Good point about not being able to reach the controls with a shoulder harness on. I won't build a car without a dual shoulder harness, but it doesn't have to be a full race model. I started with a 3-point that has dual shoulder straps. I couldn't reach the dash and also couldn't lean forward far enough to see cars coming from the right side, on curved intersections exceeding 90 degrees. I switched to a Corbeau model that comes with a belt retractor for the shoulder strap. The problem with really tight interiors is there is no room for the V-shape straps behind the seat. I have enough room for them to work, but removed the quick release buckle behind the seat to make the setup more compact.

If you can't reach the dash with the shoulder straps on, it would be major inconvenience. I lived with it for awhile, but eventually had to fix the problem.

http://corbeau.com/other/harness-belts/3-point-retractable-harness-belt.html

[Svtfreak]

Well, capillary tubing def changes things there. Might have to settle for ac controls in dash.

Ignition I want on column. Along with wiper and turn signal controls. Somehow.

That leaves window switches which should be easy to camouflage.

Erlihemi, why did you give up on swapping the roadster to coupe? That's my plan also. I intend to put the wipers in the body but they probably won't work on roadster windshield due to angle. But gotta have them for title. And I'll want them to work on the hard top. Dunno if I can but I can try. But curious why you gave up on that idea?

[erlihemi]

Don't let me defeat the roof plan, but proceed with eyes and ears open. get some input from the guys that have really done it successfully, are happy with it, and made it functional. My primary mistake was following what was put out in the build school and reading the instructions. This body flexes and you must have body position finalized, and locked in, before attempting door and roof fit up. I swear my roof is tweaked diagonally. The roadster windshield and the roof would not share mounting holes at the front without me using a porta power to install the roof!! I could still swap around, but then I raised the roll bar and changed how I wanted the car to look. Since I live in upstate NY not Arizona I decided to just stick with the hard top which I am happy with. Now I am running wiring harness up to the roof for dome lights, windshield wipers, tweeters, and the ghost busters siren. not much need for windshield wipers in the roadster, but, states may require it. Look at the MKIV forum for suggestions there. all that said and I have had less problems than some with door fitment and trunk lid. Go figure :confused:

[erlihemi]

I would start with the hard top and get the body lines first, then do the roadster windshield second, based on hardtop position. Hopefully the build school has stopped putting it on the other way around. The door lines wouldn't work for me on the hardtop using the manual guidelines for measuring from cowl to waterfall and then to the windshield frame.

[Svtfreak]

Thanks, hemi. I sure am glad you told me that. I'll do exactly that. Hard top first then roadster frame.

[Arrowhead]

I have a swing down panel under dash that houses relays and switches. It keeps everything accessible and stays hardwired to the chassis if the body comes off. (retrofit of new EFI and digital dash under construction)

[myjones]

I have a swing down panel under dash that houses relays and switches. It keeps everything accessible and stays hardwired to the chassis if the body comes off. (retrofit of new EFI and digital dash under construction)
Arrowhead
I noticed the extra layer of metal on the lower firewall in pic 1 how much can you move that in before it affects pedal travel etc.
Did that to mine on the PS-plenty of room, to hide the AC hoses and working on the DS- gas pedal mount etc. to make it as wide
as the bellhousing will allow.
DB
Sorry for the thread jack but it does "clean up the interior"

[vince]

Ok. I will have ac and power windows. I want my dash as clean as pisssible. Gauges and light switch. That's it.

I will need window switches and ac controls but I don't want them plainly visible. I don't want my console to tie up into dash.

That's said, I'm thinking about a door with shock to hide everything under. Say, in console.

However, now in thinking about a bench seat so the door might be under a kiddo sitting in center (long story there lol). Do you guys have any trick ideas of where to hide stuff? Need window switches, ac/heat controls and a iPhone plug (will go to amp for music instead of installing a radio) and maybe a couple other things.

So, any of you guys got any trick ideas for hiding all that stuff out of sight to get as clean an interior as possible?

I did this on my roadster build to hide my stereo: https://goo.gl/photos/xp3UiydgTKbQZZ4Q7

I used an actuator i found online and rigged up a frame and some hinges. Worked out pretty nice... and everything stays hidden!

[Arrowhead]

Arrowhead
I noticed the extra layer of metal on the lower firewall in pic 1 how much can you move that in before it affects pedal travel etc.
Did that to mine on the PS-plenty of room, to hide the AC hoses and working on the DS- gas pedal mount etc. to make it as wide
as the bellhousing will allow.
DB
Sorry for the thread jack but it does "clean up the interior"

Actually it's just a secondary firewall panel I made. it's only at the top.

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