FFR master cyl mounting mistake?

[frankc5r]

http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/ae238/frankc5r/IMG_1079.jpg (http://s975.photobucket.com/user/frankc5r/media/IMG_1079.jpg.html)

This is picture of the master cyl mounting area on my new 818C. Page 172 of both rev q and R( the latest) show similar layout. Note the cyl mounting holes which you drill using
the firewall as guide result in master being tilted to inside. However when you try to mount, the bore of the master which protrudes into the inside of car from mounting flange hit
the firewall as you try to rotate in place. FFR has no idea other than to cut firewall. None of this makes sense as there appears to be no reason to not mount the master cyl
horizontal and pictures I see appear to show it horizontal. Horiz also gives better align with pushrod. FFR also saws master interferes with upper outer pedal box mount.. It does not
if you mount it horizontal as common sense says to do. Manual appears to be a "general" guide??

What have other found??
Thanks

[Mechie3]

Replicaparts.com makes (used to?) a piece to fix this. Kinda dumb (the mounting, not replica parts part).

[Hindsight]

Yeah get the mounting kit from Mike. Worth it. Makes it easier to remove the master cylinder as well.

Did you drill a new hole in your brake pedal for the pushrod to be up higher? Hard to tell from that pic but looks like maybe you didn't. If you didn't, it's much easier to do with the pedal off the car. Pulling the Pedal assembly after the car is done is a ROYAL PITA.

[frankc5r]

Thanks for replies. Yes, the pedal has been drilled a 1/2 in higher. I just appears from camara angle that it is not done.
Question- It appears Mike's bracket mounting holes to firewall are vertical and go into the FFR thick welded pedal mount bracket?? Correct??

[phil1734]

Mine is tilted on chassis #399 as you describe, but didn't have any interference with bore and the push rod lined up fine after relocating it as high up the pedal as possible. You will also have to clearance the pedal box for the hardware.

Unfortunately this is one of those blatant no-cost design errors that FFR doesn't seem to care about. Their solution/attitude toward the whole thing seems to be that they'd rather you buy a wilwood box from them so that they can focus on building another car for Snap-On. :mad:

Edit: You didn't forget the spacers did you? There are some that offset so the bore doesn't run into the firewall IIRC.

[frankc5r]

Mine is tilted on chassis #399 as you describe, but didn't have any interference with bore and the push rod lined up fine after relocating it as high up the pedal as possible. You will also have to clearance the pedal box for the hardware.

Unfortunately this is one of those blatant no-cost design errors that FFR doesn't seem to care about. Their solution/attitude toward the whole thing seems to be that they'd rather you buy a wilwood box from them so that they can focus on building another car for Snap-On. :mad:

Edit: You didn't forget the spacers did you? There are some that offset so the bore doesn't run into the firewall IIRC.

FFR did not have anyone that knew why it was like that. Helpful and willing but without a good answer.

I believe the spacers are for the clutch master.
Glad you got the angled master to work.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I didn't have and interference with the bore hitting on the frame. There is some issues with bolts heads or nuts being to close to the bend on the pedal box.
You are the first on I can remember on here with a problem with the bore hitting.
Here is a picture of mine installed. I used 5/16 socket head cap screws from the inside out.
Bob

66058

[frankc5r]

Thanks Bob. Best I can tell, the hole you drilled to the outside is just enough lower to have the bore clear. I find a lot slop in FFR stuff especially aluminum and since they have you use the hole in the
firewall as guide to drill the mount hole, I got unlucky. Mike is out of his brackets to fix this so I may just "fix" myself. Sure it won't be the last "fix".

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Thanks Bob. Best I can tell, the hole you drilled to the outside is just enough lower to have the bore clear. I find a lot slop in FFR stuff especially aluminum and since they have you use the hole in the
firewall as guide to drill the mount hole, I got unlucky. Mike is out of his brackets to fix this so I may just "fix" myself. Sure it won't be the last "fix".

My holes were predrilled in the frame. I may of transferred them to the aluminum.
66082

[frankc5r]

Mike was out of adapters so I attacked the problem from the other side. Since the nuts/bolt heads are too close to pedal assembly and there is plenty of meat on master cyl, I put master in mill and widened the bore spacing so when holes are drilled, there is room for a nut or bolt head. Works fine and the 4th bolt can now be installed.
http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/ae238/frankc5r/IMG_1080.jpg (http://s975.photobucket.com/user/frankc5r/media/IMG_1080.jpg.html)

http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/ae238/frankc5r/IMG_1084.jpg (http://s975.photobucket.com/usehttp://i975.photobucket.com/albums/ae238/frankc5r/IMG_1081.jpg

To keep the clutch pedal in normal up position, I only had to use 1 clutch master spacer to have adjuster not be at end of adjustment.. Other people do similar???

[wallace18]

Frank this is part of building a kit car. making modifications to suit your style and taste. If you do not like how it fits, fix it. All part of the fun, LOL. On the 2 818S's I built using the stock pedals and master cylinder I did not have to make any such mods. On other kits I did. You are doing a fine job. Keep up the good work. TW