Windshield Fitting

[ThickCobra]

Planning to start the windshield fitting and realize access to the DS frame support is almost impossible. The PS frame support is tight but reachable. Ideas welcome.

[Feen]

No ideas....that location is crappy

[canuck1]

It's a tight squeeze but we've all managed to find a way somehow. I know a ratcheting box end wrench is the best tool I have when it comes to snugging up the bolts in that tight spot.

Sean

[edwardb]

It's tight on the DS, but as long as you don't block the opening behind the dash, you can reach back in there. One tip that makes installing the windshield a whole bunch easier that I also mentioned in my last build thread. Probably one of the best tips I’ve tried in a long time. Saw it somewhere on one of the forums and tried it for the first time. Instead of just drilling out the 1/2-inch holes in the windshield side bars, drill them 27/64-inch and cut threads with a 1/2-inch x 13 tap. Easy to cut threads in the brass. That way you only have to put in a bolt from one side in each of the holes when mounting and aligning the windshield. Way easier than bolt + nut + wrench on each side while chasing around a moving windshield. When tightened, they're nice and strong. Put a nut and washer on each bolt during final assembly, but before then they hold the windshield solidly during the build.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/th_IMG_0489_zps6yzw6t6u.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0489_zps6yzw6t6u.jpg.html)

[Dave Howard]

If you're doing a father son build, now's the time to get Jr. involved again with those small hands to get at those DS windshield fasteners. Seriously, it's a tight fit but quite achievable. There are no tricks. No easy way.

Remember to make the openings in the fibreglass body large enough so the windshield posts do no touch the body when the windshield is in the proper position. The openings from the factory are a guide and will require some enlarging.

If you're planning on purchasing a premium top at some point, the angle of the windshield is specific. It's determined by a specific measurement between the top most screw on the windshield frame post and the back edge of the top of the door opening.

[edwardb]

If you're planning on purchasing a premium top at some point, the angle of the windshield is specific. It's determined by a specific measurement between the top most screw on the windshield frame post and the back edge of the top of the door opening.

From corner of rear door opening to center of top windshield mounting screw = 27 inches for the premium top. I use this measurement even though I don't plan to install a top. It seems to be about the right angle and everything fits up well.

No one has mentioned it, but I'm hoping you've read all the threads about matching the spacing of the side bars to the chassis mounts. It's pretty common for the side bars to be a bit wider than the mounts. Use washers or some kind of spacer to fill before tightening. If you try to close the gap by tightening the mounting bolts only bad things happen. At the very least, the windshield will bow and not fit properly onto the body. That happened with a buddy of mine. But much worse, many think this is the reason windshields break. Don't be one of those guys.

[mcwho]

I was gonna call Dan Gulub at FFR and see if he could do a build video on the Windshield install.

[rich grsc]

Almost impossible? Its the second easiest to do. I've done over a half dozen, its not a big deal.

[wareaglescott]

Almost impossible? Its the second easiest to do. I've done over a half dozen, its not a big deal.

Well to most it seems like a stumbling block. Most of us don't get the opportunity to do 6 of them. I for one appreciate all the constructive tips in this thread.

[boat737]

Almost impossible? Its the second easiest to do. I've done over a half dozen, its not a big deal.

Wow. What's the first easiest?

[rich grsc]

Wow. What's the first easiest?
Why, the passenger side. :cool:

[Gumball]

Jay - Driver's side is a tough reach, but once you get it started, an assortment of long extensions and a universal joint - or two - make it possible. If I could do it with my ham fists, anyone can.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Driver's side like Chris said; long extension, universal joint socket and combination wrench in conjunction with some creative swearing. Passenger side is a piece of cake if you have the RF wheel and splash panel off and just work in the wheelwell. Other option there if the splash panel is installed is to lay over the fender and work from the engine compartment. As has already been mentioned shim as necessary to be sure that the windshield remains totally relaxed when the arms are tightened to the chassis. Glass don't like to bend :(

Jeff

[ThickCobra]

Thanks everyone for all the feedback...very much appreciated. I will employ a combination of them all.

Jay

[Gumball]

Jay,

You may also want to check out my windshield fitting thread, as I show how I installed it without the body on first so that there was no stress to the glass - as mentioned by Jeff, stress is a bad thing where glass is concerned. Key is to be able to remove the frame from the uprights without any change in the upright position - basically just a smooth fit without any bending in or out on the uprights.

[boat737]

Jay,

You may also want to check out my windshield fitting thread, as I show how I installed it without the body on first so that there was no stress to the glass - as mentioned by Jeff, stress is a bad thing where glass is concerned. Key is to be able to remove the frame from the uprights without any change in the upright position - basically just a smooth fit without any bending in or out on the uprights.

This one? http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?11445-Windshield-reasemmbly-and-fitting-to-chassis-hoping-to-avoid-cracks

[CraigS]

My contribution is to throw away any type of locking nuts and get a double set of plain nuts. This way you can run the nuts on finger tight pretty easily. Adjust, shim, adjust, shim etc. Once it is right, tighten the first nut and run another one on to act as a jam nut. This way you only need a wrench for a few turns on each nut.

[j.miller]

Ok, DS. 1, drop fuse block, 2. have a shot of rum, C. use a pair hemostats to reach in with the upper nut, D. have a shot of rum and stretch the cramp out of your left leg....another shot of rum for good messure. (BTW Hemostats is , well, ,,,,ok, we used them for roach clips in high school....remember , we stole them from biology class?) and have a shot of rum.. On costomer cars I fight it out with nylocks, on my car I do more like Craig (and have a shot of rum)said only I use "WIZNUTS" yep, you heard me WIZNUTS !(no , I'm not calling you wiznuts) They are serrated flange nuts that just love to lock into brass after they have a shot of rum...ba Dat......SOOOOOOO! you have options. You can ignore the "have a shot of rum's" and spend a couple hours swearing......ORRRRR! you can ignore the "advise" and spend a couple hours swearing,,,,,BUT IN A GOOD WAY!...talking all pirate , making the kids swab the deck, the wife polish the missing mast.....OH! my fave, blindefold the cat and make him walk the plank.....Your call.

[ThickCobra]

Jay,

You may also want to check out my windshield fitting thread, as I show how I installed it without the body on first so that there was no stress to the glass - as mentioned by Jeff, stress is a bad thing where glass is concerned. Key is to be able to remove the frame from the uprights without any change in the upright position - basically just a smooth fit without any bending in or out on the uprights.

Chris,

I just read your thread and plan to reread it. No doubt very thorough. When initially marking the 2 side brace holes on each side for drilling, I take it these need to be marked body on??

Jay

[ThickCobra]

Ok, DS. 1, drop fuse block, 2. have a shot of rum, C. use a pair hemostats to reach in with the upper nut, D. have a shot of rum and stretch the cramp out of your left leg....another shot of rum for good messure. (BTW Hemostats is , well, ,,,,ok, we used them for roach clips in high school....remember , we stole them from biology class?) and have a shot of rum.. On costomer cars I fight it out with nylocks, on my car I do more like Craig (and have a shot of rum)said only I use "WIZNUTS" yep, you heard me WIZNUTS !(no , I'm not calling you wiznuts) They are serrated flange nuts that just love to lock into brass after they have a shot of rum...ba Dat......SOOOOOOO! you have options. You can ignore the "have a shot of rum's" and spend a couple hours swearing......ORRRRR! you can ignore the "advise" and spend a couple hours swearing,,,,,BUT IN A GOOD WAY!...talking all pirate , making the kids swab the deck, the wife polish the missing mast.....OH! my fave, blindefold the cat and make him walk the plank.....Your call.

I don't know whether I have that much Rum in the house. I wish I did as I spent , sorry , enjoyed, the last few days trying to assemble the passenger side brace to the frame with little success. No need to go into detail but a major waste of time that has just slowed the build. I am now stepping back and will revisit things Monday. Glad I am as I wouldnt want a cracked windshield on my hands. I'll reread all available posts and confident it will all work out.

I appreciate the humor injected.

Jay

[Mountain-Metalworks]

I don't know whether I have that much Rum in the house. I wish I did as I spent , sorry , enjoyed, the last few days trying to assemble the passenger side brace to the frame with little success. No need to go into detail but a major waste of time that has just slowed the build. I am now stepping back and will revisit things Monday. Glad I am as I wouldnt want a cracked windshield on my hands. I'll reread all available posts and confident it will all work out.

I appreciate the humor injected.

Jay

Let me know if you're still working on it Jay, I'm long on rum at the moment and can help out in a pinch... :D

-TJ

[j.miller]

Harrr! There be a mate ta be givin ye a hand....full sail ahead ! MORE RUM !!!.....here kitty kitty kitty !

[ThickCobra]

Harrr! There be a mate ta be givin ye a hand....full sail ahead ! MORE RUM !!!.....here kitty kitty kitty !

Man, you are in rare form today. Somebody is obviously in a good mood.

[boat737]

Man, you are in rare form today. Somebody is obviously in a good mood.

Bat's gettin' ready for my car later this Summer. Windshield and hood fitting issues and all. I'm sure I'll be his new favorite problem customer... that's the plan anyway.

[ThickCobra]

Well, I couldn't wait till Monday to get back to the windshield. And, while I was at it, I thought I may as well see how the screws for the sun visors fit and whether they bottomed out. I was surprised to discover that the small counter sunk screws do not fit the tiny pre-drilled holes in the window frame. I thought I read someone mentioning this before. Has anyone else found this to be the case? I removed the frame from the glass with the plan of sanding down any screws that bottomed out. Thanks for the suggestion Chris.

[edwardb]

Well, I couldn't wait till Monday to get back to the windshield. And, while I was at it, I thought I may as well see how the screws for the sun visors fit and whether they bottomed out. I was surprised to discover that the small counter sunk screws do not fit the tiny pre-drilled holes in the window frame. I thought I read someone mentioning this before. Has anyone else found this to be the case? I removed the frame from the glass with the plan of sanding down any screws that bottomed out. Thanks for the suggestion Chris.

The last two windshields I did had metric mounting holes. The screws FF provides in the visor kit are 6-32 flat head mounting screws. I've found M3 x 0.5 mm go in perfectly. My local Ace had some M3 x 6mm long SS screws. But I found a better choice at McMaster. 90258A173 are 5mm long and a nicer looking oval head. I adjusted each one to not go any further than just inside the frame. Just a touch on the disk sander for the 5mm long ones.

[ThickCobra]

The last two windshields I did had metric mounting holes. The screws FF provides in the visor kit are 6-32 flat head mounting screws. I've found M3 x 0.5 mm go in perfectly. My local Ace had some M3 x 6mm long SS screws. But I found a better choice at McMaster. 90258A173 are 5mm long and a nicer looking oval head. I adjusted each one to not go any further than just inside the frame. Just a touch on the disk sander for the 5mm long ones.

This is it. I knew I has seen something on this. Thanks.

[GoDadGo]

Guys,

Is it the wiring harness & fuse box that is causing the big issue with regards to accessing the driver's side windshield bolts?
Could you simply drop the fuse block down to get to the windshield bolts and then reinstall the fuse block later?
I have plenty of room on my car, but I think it is because I moved the fuse block to the passenger side of the car.

Steve

65891

[Gumball]

Jay,

Sounds like you're on the right track. I may be in your neck of the woods this Friday afternoon, so let me know if you'd like me to drop by and put eyes on anything.

Also, I have that cap decal for you, too... been riding around with me in my truck for the past few weeks.

[ThickCobra]

Jay,

Sounds like you're on the right track. I may be in your neck of the woods this Friday afternoon, so let me know if you'd like me to drop by and put eyes on anything.

Also, I have that cap decal for you, too... been riding around with me in my truck for the past few weeks.

Come ahead. I always like to have a list of things for you to look at and provide your thoughts.

See you then.

[ThickCobra]

It's tight on the DS, but as long as you don't block the opening behind the dash, you can reach back in there. One tip that makes installing the windshield a whole bunch easier that I also mentioned in my last build thread. Probably one of the best tips I’ve tried in a long time. Saw it somewhere on one of the forums and tried it for the first time. Instead of just drilling out the 1/2-inch holes in the windshield side bars, drill them 27/64-inch and cut threads with a 1/2-inch x 13 tap. Easy to cut threads in the brass. That way you only have to put in a bolt from one side in each of the holes when mounting and aligning the windshield. Way easier than bolt + nut + wrench on each side while chasing around a moving windshield. When tightened, they're nice and strong. Put a nut and washer on each bolt during final assembly, but before then they hold the windshield solidly during the build.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/th_IMG_0489_zps6yzw6t6u.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0489_zps6yzw6t6u.jpg.html)

Paul,

Did you grind the chrome off the leg in this pic?

[mcwho]

OK, I am gonna make I have enough of that Island Rum, then I'll look at it again. Not sure if I can drop the Fuse Panel or not. The body is on for final panel fitting before paint. Hope the Black Seal holds out.

[ThickCobra]

OK, I am gonna make I have enough of that Island Rum, then I'll look at it again. Not sure if I can drop the Fuse Panel or not. The body is on for final panel fitting before paint. Hope the Black Seal holds out.

I gotta ask. Are we havin' fun now?

[Gumball]

I gotta ask. Are we havin' fun now?

Think you're havin' fun now, just wait until you're looking through that windshield...... gotta drag out this old pic yet again......

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/1%20Prairie%20Road%20Sundown_zpsjbo8zucd.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/1%20Prairie%20Road%20Sundown_zpsjbo8zucd.jpg.html)

[mcwho]

OK, I looked at the windshield brackets and frame parts again.

Am I missing something?

Wouldn't it be easier to drill those large holes with the body removed, Did I miss something and shoulda woulda coulda drilled them before I put the body on to fit the rest of the panels.

Hmm

I can see that maybe marking where the holes should maybe make sense, but is there that much deviation in each build ?

[edwardb]

OK, I looked at the windshield brackets and frame parts again.

Am I missing something?

Wouldn't it be easier to drill those large holes with the body removed, Did I miss something and shoulda woulda coulda drilled them before I put the body on to fit the rest of the panels.

Hmm

I can see that maybe marking where the holes should maybe make sense, but is there that much deviation in each build ?

Getting the right fit to the body is important to the windshield installation. You need the body in place to set the final height, front/back location, and angle of the windshield. Yes there is some room for adjustment since the holes in the frame are larger than the bolts. But I wouldn't take a chance it would provide enough adjustment. And yes I believe there is enough variation between builds that each needs to be drilled to match.

[rich grsc]

Say what? How would you locate the correct position to mark the arms to drill the holes?? You don't drill the holes with the windshield setting on the car, you pull it off the body then drill.

[mcwho]

OK, we are taking about 2 sets of holes, 1 set on the brackets and the other which is part of the car frame. Its the frame holes I am talking about, not the holes on the brackets. I can easily drill the holes on the frame brackets that's not an issue.

No one has mentioned if I drill the frame brackets first or the frame holes first. I would have thought the bracket holes should be in a standard location.

perhaps not !

The only place I ever saw the angle of the windshield was in the instructions for the premium soft top which someone also quoted here as 27".

[mcwho]

OK, we are taking about 2 sets of holes, 1 set on the brackets and the other which is part of the car frame. Its the frame holes I am talking about, not the holes on the brackets. I can easily drill the holes on the frame brackets that's not an issue.

No one has mentioned if I drill the frame brackets first or the frame holes first. I would have thought the bracket holes should be in a standard location.

It seems that everyone else on this thread is talking about how to get the bolts in place, that's NOT what I am talking about, guess its time for a new thread.

perhaps not !

[edwardb]

OK, we are taking about 2 sets of holes, 1 set on the brackets and the other which is part of the car frame. Its the frame holes I am talking about, not the holes on the brackets. I can easily drill the holes on the frame brackets that's not an issue.

No one has mentioned if I drill the frame brackets first or the frame holes first. I would have thought the bracket holes should be in a standard location.

It seems that everyone else on this thread is talking about how to get the bolts in place, that's NOT what I am talking about, guess its time for a new thread.

perhaps not !

The frame holes are pre-drilled from the factory. You only need to drill the arms.

[mcwho]

OK I see that now, They are much further forward than I thought they would be. Its kinda like a horse and cart, you need to know where they aree gonna line up before you can get them in the slots for them, and they are way too long. I have to drill out the slots on the body a bit for them to sit at that angle, that's part of what was confusing me.

I am old and have a hard time contorting to the positions I need to see under there.

Thanks !

[Dave Howard]

Darn near impossible to mount the windshield before mounting the body. And mount the body with all the sealing material in place. Then you know "That's where the body will sit". And, with the body on, you can determine how much of the windshield mounting arms to cut off. They come a little on the long side. A hacksaw and a file for the sharp edges. No customization required. NO one will ever see it. I would think twice about tapping the holes you drill into the windshield supports. NO added benefit. NO added strength. It would make starting the bolts on the drivers side a huge pain in the 'Trump'.

[edwardb]

I would think twice about tapping the holes you drill into the windshield supports. NO added benefit. NO added strength. It would make starting the bolts on the drivers side a huge pain in the 'Trump'.

I really don't care one way or the other what the OP does. I've done it both ways, and both work. But rather than just having an opinion I actually tried the tapped holes idea (read about it from other builders on the other forum) and it works very well so passed it along. The tapped holes are intended strictly as an assembly aid. Nothing more. Once you have the holes lined up, you can hand start the bolts and get them snug by hand. Slight turn with a wrench and the windshield is held in place. No chasing another bolt, two wrenches, etc. There's no issue with the DS. It's no problem to start the bolts on either side. The tapped holes easily hold the windshield in place throughout the build process and the inevitable multiple times on and off. Add the washers and lock nuts at final assembly.

[skullandbones]

I've only built one MKIII but I can tell you from the post build experience with this car that the frame screw mod is the best one I ever did. Thanks to whoever came up with it originally. I read about it a lot before initiating it. What I found was the 3/4 SAE fine hex bolt worked best. I tapped the frames after shortening both sides a little and at an angle. When you test fit the frames before assembly you can see how you will have to cut a little off. The holes in the chassis brackets were a little tight on the passenger side so I remember reaming the holes so I could start the screws with one hand. My hands don't fit well in a lot of those small spaces so my concern was will I be able to remove the screws as easily as they say. I also did a mod to make the dash fold down. That helps on the DS so much. The PS is easy without doing anything even with big hands. I did use some blue lock tight but other than that, it's screws only in the frame. I check all bolts periodically anyway so I'm not worried about them coming loose. I mentioned the post build experience. I have had the wind screen off multiple times for different reasons. I can have it off from 5 to 10 minutes (15 on an uncoordinated day). There is no worry about how hard or "impossible" it might be. In my case, it's remove the steering wheel (quick change), steering shaft forward, drop dash, and bolts out. Putting it back together requires a little more time but not much. Along with the Lucas door latch mods that keep them from falling apart after six months, this is the best mod you can do if you ever decide the wind screen needs to come off.

Good luck,

WEK.

[32J]

As an aside, anyone with "E.T." fingers can probably make a killing helping people with these cars...

;)