Cowells Fitting to Dash and Rear Panel

[ThickCobra]

I hope this item helps others. With the body on, for the umpteenth time, I am finding both the front and rear cowells to be tight against the front dash face and the rear cockpit panel. As I trim material off of the underside lips of both cowells I get some relief. Is this normal to have to do some trimming here? Then, when the front cowell can be easily lifted away from the dash without risk of marring the dash face, I see that the dash, though covered by the Cowell, is not tight up against the body. So, in effect, the body may float above the dash. Is this Ok?

[ThickCobra]

I apologize as I see I posted this to build threads in error.

[ThickCobra]

But, I'm still hoping for feedback.

[cgundermann]

Yes, experienced builders/painters have posted info concerning this and certainly will better qualify this. I just removed maybe 1/4 inch or more in areas for both the front and rear dash and bulkhead body interface (less material as the body bends away). I made a carbon fiber dash and was also worried about body rub/marring. You will also need room for carpeting (soundproofing if used) at the rear bulkhead/body lapping.

[ThickCobra]

Yes, experienced builders/painters have posted info concerning this and certainly will better qualify this. I just removed maybe 1/4 inch or more in areas for both the front and rear dash and bulkhead body interface (less material as the body bends away). I made a carbon fiber dash and was also worried about body rub/marring. You will also need room for carpeting (soundproofing if used) at the rear bulkhead/body lapping.

Will do, thanks. I bet the carbon fiber dash looks awesome.

Jay

[Jeff Kleiner]

Yes, I trim back and clean up the underside edge of the front and rear rolls. Back bulkhead can be muscled rearward as well. Note that if you put dash attaching screws directly into the arched square tube they will be either fully or partially inaccessable when the body is in place. I generally recommend making some tabs to place the mounting screws about an inch down.

Jeff

[GoDadGo]

Yes, I trim back and clean up the underside edge of the front and rear rolls. Back bulkhead can be muscled rearward as well. Note that if you put dash attaching screws directly into the arched square tube they will be either fully or partially inaccessable when the body is in place. I generally recommend making some tabs to place the mounting screws about an inch down.

Jeff

This is exactly what I did and it fits fine.
Just take your time and be careful to not remove too much of the material on the underside lip that contacts the dash and rear panel areas.

[ThickCobra]

Yes, I trim back and clean up the underside edge of the front and rear rolls. Back bulkhead can be muscled rearward as well. Note that if you put dash attaching screws directly into the arched square tube they will be either fully or partially inaccessable when the body is in place. I generally recommend making some tabs to place the mounting screws about an inch down.

Jeff

Jeff,

I did choose to attach the dash to the hoop, added brackets and placed the screws well below the front roll. I know others found ways to avoid face screws but that's a lot, at least for me, to take on with my first build.

Jay

[GoDadGo]

Jeff,

I did choose to attach the dash to the hoop, added brackets and placed the screws well below the front roll. I know others found ways to avoid face screws but that's a lot, at least for me, to take on with my first build.

Jay

Jay,

I did the same thing, creating tabs or brackets that hang down and used Stainless #10 Allen heads on my dash, trans tunnel top, slave cylinder and other access panels.
Yes, I Love My Rivet Nut Tool!
Good Luck!

Steve

[cgundermann]

Also made some drop down brackets out of angled aluminum and it clears perfectly. The black visible bolt heads give my carbon fiber dash some texture. My car is off to "Da Bat" in a week or so...packing up her field trip kit...