front upper a arm

[kobra01]

Hi,

I took over a build on a MK4 srl# F5R1008548RD and cannot get any negative camber in the front suspension. The upper a arms are attached to the vertical holes on the side of the 2x3 as described in assembly manual dated 6/2014. The assembly manual dated 9/2014 says attach to the horizontal holes on the top. I'm guessing the holes on the top could solve my problem. Any advise.

On a side note the previous owner has done an outstanding job of getting the car to it's current state. Most every little detail is perfect. I'm sooooo lucky to have found this car for sale.

Thanks,

Ken

[GoDadGo]

My MK4 is Chassis #8,515 and the arms are mounted on the side holes, not the top.

You can see where mine are mounted on the attached video: https://youtu.be/_wnHDNgnNqs

I think the upper holes are used when you have the Mustang Spindle Adapters.

You may want to post pics and ask one of the Expert Builders or call Factory Five's Tech Team.

[edwardb]

To quote my friend Jeff K from the other forum -- Whether to use the top horizontal mounts or the vertical side mounts is dictated by which spindles are used. Fox and SN95 spindles without a SAI correction mount into the the top set and FFR proprietary spindles or SN95s with SAI mod use the sides.

So we need to know which spindles you have to give proper advice. Pictures are always good.

[kobra01]

It looks like I have 1987-2004 spindle adapter bracket and my guess is the 94-04 spindles 5 lugs. I know for sure I don't have the MK4 complete kit spindles #14850.

[Jeff Kleiner]

It looks like I have 1987-2004 spindle adapter bracket and my guess is the 94-04 spindles 5 lugs. I know for sure I don't have the MK4 complete kit spindles #14850.

Then you need to use the top mount location, not the side.

Jeff

[kobra01]

Okay I will move to the top mount location. Should solve the problem.

The next issue I noticed is the clearance between the front 6 piston wilwood brake caliper and the inside of the 17" halibrand replica wheel. Not the top of the caliper, the face where it says wilwood. I can't get a feeler blade in that space to measure so I tried to slide a zip tie in that space and it won't fit, so the clearance is no more than like 1/24". Is that enough clearance or do I need to run a thin spacer.

Thanks,
Ken

[kobra01]

I moved the A arms and that fixed it. Thanks for the help guys.

Ken

[vnmsss]

Adding a thin spacer for a bit more clearance will certainly not hurt, and may save your caliper from surface damage due to small rocks which can become lodged between the caliper and the wheel.......The offset on the Halibrand replicas makes them a very close fit (and sometimes too close) on the bigger calipers. I'm running Wilwoods on my new Coupe, and am having to add a 3/4" spacer to accommodate the 18" Halibrands. I've run spacers on my Coupes and Challenge cars for years, and as long as the wheel studs are long enough (and of good quality), they've always worked fine. I use ARP wheel studs on the race cars, but the stock ones are fine for normal street use. Best of luck with your build!

Karen

Okay I will move to the top mount location. Should solve the problem.

The next issue I noticed is the clearance between the front 6 piston wilwood brake caliper and the inside of the 17" halibrand replica wheel. Not the top of the caliper, the face where it says wilwood. I can't get a feeler blade in that space to measure so I tried to slide a zip tie in that space and it won't fit, so the clearance is no more than like 1/24". Is that enough clearance or do I need to run a thin spacer.

Thanks,
Ken