Dash wiring

[ricobrafan]

As I prepare to begin the dash wiring, I found what I thought was a simple approach posted by Jeff k back in 2012 but I am not clear about the dimmer module. I am using the FFR gps gauges and the FR harness Here is where i am so far.
Red/black/white daisy chain - red wire to RF brown gauge feed
Red/black/white daisy chain - Black to RF ground feed
Red/black/white daisy chain - white to RF dash lights feed

Now what to do with the white and black wire from the dimmer module? What the Jeff k post said was "white harness dash lights wire connects to the input of the dimmer, black ground connects to the black harness ground. From there the dimmers output snaps in the connectors for th lighter gauge wire?
What?
Any input would be helpful.

[edwardb]

White from the dimmer wire also goes to the RF dash lights feed. Black goes to ground. So you end up with both gauge lighting wires on the RF dash light feed wire. One powers the needles. The other powers the backlighting through the dimmer.

[ricobrafan]

There are three dash light feeds in the RF harness. Which one(s) should I use. Can you put the two white wires on one connector or should they be separate? Same with the ground
While I have your attention dwarfs, I was looking at your post about the use of the blue sea systems bar. You appear to use this as a replacement for the selonoid or wiring to the starter...correct. This keeps everything inside the dash with shorter runs? Sorry for The basic question but the wiring is my real weakness. Thanks

[ricobrafan]

I like the spell check change from Edward B to dwarfs. Sorry for that!

[edwardb]

I like the spell check change from Edward B to dwarfs. Sorry for that!

Dwarfs here... I've been called worse. ;) Those multiple white dash light wires in the RF harness are all tied to the same source. Do whatever is easiest. You can tie both Speedhut white wires to one. Or one Speedhut wire on two dash light wires. Same difference. Same with the ground. There are multiple ground wires, but they all go to the same place. Just make sure to clip off any you don't use.

For your other question, you're right, I haven't used a firewall solenoid on any of my builds. The solenoid function isn't needed. But some still use it as a gathering point for the main power wires. For the last two, I used the master disconnect combined with the bus bar to accomplish that. Main battery feed one switch post. Then on the other switch post, one feed back to the starter and another to the bus bar where I attach the multiple RF power leads. Pretty simple.

[CraigS]

You can also use something like this.
https://www.delcity.net/store/Junction-Blocks/p_801581.h_793465.r_IF1003?mkwid=s7zz6C0Zu&crid=38094426869&mp_kw=&mp_mt=&gclid=CMHq_d781dICFY2LswodV8YLaA
or this
https://www.delcity.net/store/PowerPost-Plus-Cable-Connectors/p_807999.h_807991
The problem is that you need to connect at minimum; battery, starter, alternator, power to the fuse block. The stud on the starter is too short and you don't have room as your wires end up looking like the petals on a flower. So, if you mount one of the above somewhere on the firewall above the passenger footbox, you have plenty of room. A friend put his battery in front of the engine and is also using electric power steering which needs a large supply wire so he mounted his stud on the vertical plate between the engine mount and the main frame tube.