Mk4 Coyote 5.0 - new clutch

[Jester]

I have ~10k miles on my roadster and my clutch is slipping. I am replacing the clutch with the recommended FRPP (M-7560-T46) Clutch kit – new clutch arrived yesterday. I am not sure if the pressure plate is defective or if the clutch disk is worn out. I presume the clutch disk is the problem possibly due to improper clutch brake in.

I understand clutch life can be reduced significantly by improper break-in (recommended first 500mi easy mileage only – heavy clutch loads during break-in etc., can result in clutch disk overheating and glazing of the clutch disk which will dramatically reduce clutch life).

Once I have replaced the clutch, I will baby the car for the first 500mi. I plan to replace over the next few weeks.

[wareaglescott]

Just curious, do you plan to pull the motor to replace the clutch or can you get it out with the motor in position?
Also please report when you get the old one out what you think the problem was.

[ProJoe]

10k miles is really quick to kill a clutch. are you sure there isn't another problem with the system?


clutch break in is one of those things that if you ask 100 people about, you will get 100 different answers.

personally I don't subscribe to the 500 mile break-in nonsense. an organic disc clutch isn't going to magically last longer because you were more gentle on it for a month.

Here is a great post on what AP Racing recommends for their break-in procedure
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/2005-2010-mustang-gt-tech/307195-clutch-bedding-break-procedure.html

Honestly, for me its 50 miles of city driving with multiple cooldown cycles then you are about as bedded in as it is going to get.

[Railroad]

Clutch cable or hydraulic?

[Dave Howard]

10k on a new clutch is premature, but then not hard to wear out a clutch depending on how the clutch is adjusted and how you actually drive your car.

I agree that clutch break in is malarkey. Just drive it.

I've got 30,000 kilometers on the FFR recommended Centerforce clutch. Still a good grab on every hard pull. If It worked for Dave Smith on his Coyote /MkIV, why would I think I could re-engineer a better set up?

[edwardb]

Ford Racing M-7560-T46 listed by Factory Five in the Coyote installation instructions = dual friction Centerforce clutch. Someone told me that before I bought it. When it arrived it was confirmed. Centerforce box with Ford labels. Seemed like a quality part and I have it installed in my not yet driven Mk4 build. So far is working normally.

I also agree 10K is less than it should last, but highly dependent on how it's used and how it's adjusted. I wouldn't be dropping the clutch at high RPM the first time out. But shouldn't require anything really special for break-in. I will be interested to hear what you find when you get it apart. May not be the clutch itself causing the slipping.

[Jester]

Thanks for the comments and questions. I will update this once I have the clutch out. My plan is to remove the clutch from below while the car is on jack stands. I do not plan to remove the motor. My setup is a cable (not hydraulic). Not much to adjustment when in the installation is complete - firewall cable adjustment for pedal through. The reason for this post is to help others avoid similar issues. At this point I attribute the issue to either a defective pressure plate or improper brake-in. I don't think I overly abused the clutch (typical city/highway driving) however I may have dumped the clutch one or two times. I will update

[Norm B]

Is the cable tight? If it is, before you take everything apart, try turning the adjuster in. As the clutch wears the cable has to be loosened.

Good Luck

Norm

[GoDadGo]

Is the cable tight? If it is, before you take everything apart, try turning the adjuster in. As the clutch wears the cable has to be loosened.

Good Luck

Norm

I'm with Norm B in that you likely have a slipping clutch because the cable isn't letting the clutch completely out.
Also, in cars as low weight as these the tires usually slip before the clutch does so I'm thinking something isn't right in the linkage.
Good Luck & Hope You Have It Fixed Soon!

[Jester]

Norm / GoDad - Thx, I have adjusted the cable with no impact. It would be great if this were the cause - Cable is not tight and there is play in the pedal before the clutch begins to engage but I will double check.

[GoDadGo]

Norm / GoDad - Thx, I have adjusted the cable with no impact. It would be great if this were the cause - Cable is not tight and there is play in the pedal before the clutch begins to engage but I will double check.

Wow, I was sure it was slipping because the cable wasn't letting the clutch completely seat.

GOOD LUCK!

[scottiec]

If you have a rear main seal that is leaking, that can wet a clutch enough to cause slippage. However, you would probably notice fluid on the ground.

[Norm B]

Jester check that the clutch fork is not jammed against the bell housing opening. Do you have an adjustable pivot ball on the other end of the clutch fork? Maybe it's too high. I find it hard to believe that a clutch wore out in 10k miles unless the car has been driven extremely hard.

Good Luck

Norm

[Jester]

Thx Norm - I do not believe the pivot ball on the clutch fork is adjustable - but I will check.