Control arms, etc - anyone paint?

[RoadRacer]

Getting my kit 4 weeks from now, and after watching The_Compound's videos was thinking about the control arms and other unfinished pieces. After an hour down the rabbit hole I can't find a thread that talks about when to finish them, and in what.

For the first build (and shakedown year) I'm hoping to find a suitable paint rather than powder coating/chroming straight away. Who's found a paint that works well enough. I'd expect powder/chrome to be more durable, but also significantly more expensive (am I wrong?). Goes without saying, but I'm on a tight budget and will improve over time, not going for final fit and finish.

Anyone tested rattle can products to keep the rust away, or enamel products like hammerite?

Oh, and when to do this? trial assembly first, or can I paint, then final assemble? (i.e. are there any instances where there is "tweaking reqd")

[GoDadGo]

RoadRacer,

I used Duplicolor Rattle Can Paint on all of my aluminum pieces just to keep them from oxidizing and since you won't see this stuff I figured why not.
I roughed up the pans with my D/A and cleaned them with acetone before spraying with self-etching primer, then gloss black and finally cleared over the rivets.
My chassis was powder coated at Factory Five; however, I did have to touch up the powder coating where I whacked the original motor mounts and to cover the new ones that I added.
It worked out fine with a little sanding, painting, blending & clearing.
Anyway, shown below is what the car looks like today, except the radiator has now been installed:

https://youtu.be/_wnHDNgnNqs

Good Luck & Have A Great Build!

Steve

[myjones]

For the first build (and shakedown year) I'm hoping to find a suitable paint rather than powder coating/chroming straight away. Who's found a paint that works well enough.
Oh, and when to do this? trial assembly first, or can I paint, then final assemble?

I painted mine with rattle cans and am happy with the look. I can't think of a reason they would need to be removed again so paint it and forget it.
HTH
Dale B

[NAZ]

I used Eastwood Chassis Black over their chassis primer. The top coat is a two-part system that you mix and shoot with a gun or comes in a rattle can like I used. And yes the rattle can version is also two-part with the hardener contained in an inner chamber you have to activate before spraying. Once activated it has a pot life like any two-part mixed paint. This stuff is a very durable paint system that resists rock chips and doesn't fade from UV like so many of the other rattle can paints you get in a hardware store. The color and gloss sheen match the FFR powder coating perfectly.

[RoadRacer]

Thanks all - yes Naz that Eastwood two-part looks like good stuff. I'll try that. So far looks like Eastwood itself is the cheapest source

[DarthTedious]

Seconded for the chassis black and chassis primer, using the two part system is worth it and if you end up scratching any parts, touch up is easy. Certainly less durable than powdercoating, but does the job.

[myjones]

Seconded for the chassis black and chassis primer, Certainly less durable than powdercoating, but does the job.

That would be true if the chassis was smooth before the powdercoat but the FF's have so many welds and so many sharp little points of weld spatter that
paint may actually be better long term. Powdercoat doesn't like sharp points and flat plates so it's likely an equal chance that good paint lasts better here.

I spent 2 days with the chassis on a rotisserie cleaning/smoothing every weld and removing every spatter I could find, I still find the odd barb here and there.
DB

[racephotoman]

Which rattle can black from Eastwood matches the powder coating: Satin or Gloss. Thanks for all the info - just starting my build!
Walter

[RoadRacer]

Gloss. I did end up using it and add my recommendation!

[AJT '33]

I used a commercial grade rattle can paint from Chromax Pro and was canned by my paint supplier using the Spray Max system of rattle cans. I used ProForm Self Etching Primer which is best for aluminum and steel parts (aluminum was the key as I used the same system on my aluminum engine block). I then base coated with a water based base coat (which covers amazingly!!) 80917 then once dried Clear coated it with the Spray Max Acrylic Clear with three coats. I painted over powder coated parts as well as all the unpainted parts, both worked very well. The final results were excellent!
80920 80921 80922 80923

[TxMike64]

I've heard great things about Eastwood's rattlecan chassis black: 2k aerospray ceramic chassis black (https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-2k-aerospraytm-ceramic-chassis-black.html)


80923

It's interesting how many builds I see where the front lower control arm (radius arm?) isn't painted/coated. Why?

Way off topic: what alternator is that? Nice and small! But blow that thing apart and paint the case!

[RoadRacer]

It's interesting how many builds I see where the front lower control arm (radius arm?) isn't painted/coated. Why?


Because it's anodized or something? I left that and only painted the bare metal parts..

[DaveS53]

The lower arms are just zinc plated and chromate dipped that gives them the odd color. It's not a very durable finish and easily removed with a little muriatic acid. Ordinary steel nuts and bolts have zinc plating, but they are usually bright dipped that retains the silver color.

[RoadRacer]

The lower arms are just zinc plated and chromate dipped that gives them the odd color. It's not a very durable finish and easily removed with a little muriatic acid. Ordinary steel nuts and bolts have zinc plating, but they are usually bright dipped that retains the silver color.

Well, muriatic acid I have plenty of, for my pool. I guess I have another thing to paint..

[AJT '33]

I've heard great things about Eastwood's rattlecan chassis black: 2k aerospray ceramic chassis black (https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-2k-aerospraytm-ceramic-chassis-black.html)



It's interesting how many builds I see where the front lower control arm (radius arm?) isn't painted/coated. Why?

Way off topic: what alternator is that? Nice and small! But blow that thing apart and paint the case!

Its the recommended alternator from FFR Honda 2003 HONDA CIVIC 1.7L L4 , POWER SELECT 13893N Alternator / Generator (8511.50.0000)
Will most likely paint it next year as i want to get through the 1 year warranty before i mess with it. If I can figure out how to do it without tearing it apart I will. Got it from RockAuto for $126CDN

[DarthTedious]

I just took some sandpaper to the front lower control arm and then used Eastwoods' system (gloss). Seems to have held up pretty well so far, we will see in the long run.

[RoadRacer]

I keep thinking of this chromate finish.. it's not only on front LCA, but the 3 link control arms too. I hadn't even thought that this was a temp finish before. And "the interwebs" don't seem to have a consensus of course. Some say it's very durable "if done correctly", others say you can wipe it off with your thumb.

Are people painting the 3 link parts too?

[TDSapp]

One reason for leaving the front LCA and the 3 Link parts unpainted is because they are the adjustable parts of the front end and rear end. That means the front end \ rear end alignment guys are going to be putting their tools on them and you know they don't care about what the paint on the parts look like.


Tim