Footbox flashing and gas pedal stop - Pictures of small projects

[Gumball]

Here are some pictures of recent small projects related to flashing that I made to cover some of the larger gaps in the footboxes, as well as my home-made stop for my Russ Thompson gas pedal.

Driver's side flashing was made using .025 aluminum sheet, bent with a small bench-top brake, then shaped around the 36mm socket I used to tighten the front hubs. The largest part of the gap was covered with a big string of 3M strip caulk, then the flashing was riveted in place using 3M clear seam sealer as a final barrier. Everything will be covered with 3M brushable seam sealer before insulation and carpet are installed, too.

Passenger side flashing (outside the footbox where the chassis tube passes through the front panel was made using the same material. I made a cardboard template first to get the elongated hole as close to the tubing as possible, then cut the hole out of the aluminum piece before bending the lower 1/2" 90* using a bench-top brake. To the outside of the chassis, just past the curved tube, you can see the single cut I made in order to bend the thin bottom edge when opening the piece wide enough to slip over the tube - I then simply bent it back into shape and the rivets hold it closed. This gives a very clean look from outside the car so that it disappears into the background and doesn't draw the eye to the patch. This, too, is sealed using 3M strip caulk from inside the footbox as well as 3M clear seam sealer between the flashing and the footbox front panel.

The gas pedal stop was made using 1/4x20 hardware. It's a 3/8" bolt, connector nut, and a variety of pedal side bolts for adjustability (with a jamb nut to secure it once final adjustment is made.

(UPDATE - the original stop was just a nut / bolt as shown in the first picture, but the one shown in the last pic shows that I changed it to include a rubber stop. Of all things, it's just a hood bumper for a '65 Mustang - available for under 2 bucks from National Parts Depot - NPD.)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/img_4142.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/img_4142.jpg.html)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/img_4145.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/img_4145.jpg.html)

Per a later suggestion, the serrated washer has been changed to one with the serrations on the inside, rather than the outside.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/img_4200.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/img_4200.jpg.html)

[riptide motorsport]

Nice work, should keep you dry.

[Fifty-Two]

It's the attention to detail on the small things that really add up to a quality roadster in the end. Job well done!

- John

[Gumball]

Thanks for the positive words - helps to keep me plodding along. A benefit to the driver's footbox flashing is that it provides some added rigidity to the bottom of that inner panel. Also, I'm using aircraft / racecar rivets that pull really smoothly into a little ball on the back-side of the riveted panels, so they look almost as nicely finished as the heads. In areas like this were I can't get a rivet gun on the other side of the panels, that little touch also adds to the overall build.

[Fifty-Two]

I'm using aircraft / racecar rivets that pull really smoothly into a little ball on the back-side of the riveted panels, so they look almost as nicely finished as the heads. In areas like this were I can't get a rivet gun on the other side of the panels, that little touch also adds to the overall build.


Cherry rivets from Aircraft Spruce (or something equivalent) I assume?

- John

[Gumball]

Close - Avex rivets from Crawford Products:

http://www.crawfordproducts.com/avex.htm

[CobraDreaming]

Nice work.

Where did the foot pad for the accelarator come from. I gave Russ's pedal as well but with my big ole feet that looks like just the ticket.

Or it has been so long it could be shipping like that for all I know :)

[Gumball]

CobraDreaming - I used Russ' pedal, but swapped his pad for one that I fab'd up myself. I used some scrap 1" steel stock that I had laying around and bent a piece of it around the post of my drill-press to get the radius, then tig welded it to a 4" long flat piece, powder coated it, and put on a piece of 3M anti-skid tape. Does a pretty good job of replicating the original style pedal while giving me a bit more room. Some have had the success in making more room by just cutting the stock Russ Thompson pad in half, but I thought that was a bit too small.

Adding a detail pic of the accelerator pedal that I made for the Russ Thompson pedal.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/img_3976.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/img_3976.jpg.html)

[weendoggy]

I would reverse the rivets on the engine side of the footbox so the head is on the engine side. If you use carpet/padding on the interior, it won't matter if the long part of the rivet comes through. However, if you ever do work on the engine side the way it is, you may find the rivet a knuckle ripper.

[Gumball]

Weendoggy - thanks for the idea, but quite a few of the holes are difficult or impossible to get to from the engine bay side (that would have been my preference). However, given the tight pull and nice look of the Avex rivets on that side, knuckle-busting won't be an issue.

[Gumball]

Today's TTT for an old thread. This one covers a few topics, including some additional flashing on the footboxes and modifications to the Russ Thompson accelerator pedal (an already great part - as we can always expect from him!!!).

[CDXXVII]

Very much like the original post. Pedal stop and flashing. Also added a little floor reinforcement.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=53512&d=1462245829