Engine install question

[cfriedman67]

Over the weekend I semi installed my engine into my MK4. It is a 1997 mustang cobra with a TKO500 transmission. The engine and transmission are in the car but not tightened up to the frame. The issues/ questions I having are;

1. I am having a hard time getting the engine to sit correctly in the frame. It's seems that there is to much space between the frame mount and the engine mount. I am assuming when mounted correctly there should be no space between the engine mount and frame when torqued?
2. With at TKO500 it seems to me that there needs to be spacer used with the transmission bracket. If not the engine seems to lean towards the back of the car. Also, without a spacer the drive shaft yoke does not have enough space to turn with out hitting the frame. Does this make sense?
3. The driver side manifold touches the steering shaft. I understand my engine is not in correctly but once in correct are these two points soppose to be so close?

If anyone has experience with this combo any help would be appreciated.

[boat737]

1 On the motor mount (The Energy Suspension ones anyway) there is a pin that needs to drop in an alignment slot. Then the motor mount will sit flush in the frame mount.

2 I used a 7/8" shim. I started with a 3/4, which was in the ballpark, and had my driveshaft angles just within limits, but the 7/8" got the angles much closer to ideal. My thread on it: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?23171-TKO-transmission-shim and my thread on driveshaft angles http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?23179-What-is-the-consensus-for-a-pinion-angle-on-a-3-link

[cfriedman67]

1 On the motor mount (The Energy Suspension ones anyway) there is a pin that needs to drop in an alignment slot. Then the motor mount will sit flush in the frame mount.

2 I used a 7/8" shim. I started with a 3/4, which was in the ballpark, and had my driveshaft angles just within limits, but the 7/8" got the angles much closer to ideal. My thread on it: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?23171-TKO-transmission-shim and my thread on driveshaft angles http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?23179-What-is-the-consensus-for-a-pinion-angle-on-a-3-link

Thanks that helpful. Considering I am not setting the ride height or pinion angle for awhile does it make sense to just shim it to get the engine all set and adjust the shim size later? I am using the factory five energy suspension mounts and am aware of the guide pins. It just seems like ther is stil a lot of space. Hopefully with the shim it will fall into place. Silly question but do you know if there is a difference between a 1997 cobra and 97 mustang energy suspension mount? Thanks for the the links to your thread they are very halpful.

[boat737]

Sorry, I don't. But when Jeff K., or CraigS, or NAZ, or any number of really smart and experienced guys chime in, they'll know. But those mounts should sit flush on the frame mount for sure. It took a bit of finagling and prying for me to get the mounts to fall in and sit flush when I did the engine install, and after they were in, there was no room for adjustments. Some people here "rock" the motor left or right to get it to sit level, or adjust their exhaust up or down. I didn't have that option, unless I wanted to pull the motor and make the slots bigger for the pin to move some more. Decided it wasn't worth the trouble. Motor sit pretty straight as is. In addition, I just put the body on today, and it looks like 1/4 to 3/8 inch cut in the body exhaust cutouts, and it will be just fine.

[CraigS]

Yes shim the trans mount w/ a stack of washers for now. These will also allow you to adjust thickness easily when it comes time to measure angles. On the engine mounts, I have often needed to grab a 2x2 or 2x4, line it up on the bottom steel plate part of the mount that should be in contact w/ the frame and hit it w/ a large hammer. The stud on the bottom of the mount is obvious but there is also a short nub about 1 1/4 inch from the stud. See the nub here;
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-6038A-K/1983-93-Mustang-Convertible-Style-Motor-Mount-Kit?year=1993&mkwid=saIGlwsI1_dc&pcrid=90293949164&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=CMuhybG5-9ECFQmHswodxncAeA
The goal is to get the nub on the bottom of the plate to drop into it's hole in the frame piece. Some times it needs to go forward or backward a bit as well as down toward the center of the car. Don't worry about the engine being level side to side as they usually are not. Quite often they need to be jacked one way or the other to help align the headers/pipes w/ the body.

[edwardb]

To add to what others have said, my experience as well is that it sometimes take a little rocking back and forth to get the engine mounts to drop into place in the frame. One hint, if you aren't already doing it, is to back off the bolts on the mounts into the engine. Not a lot, but enough that the mount can move around a bit. That sometimes will help it find the right spot and drop in. Then tighten everything up. Also sometimes moving the transmission tail piece back and forth a bit while rocking the engine will help it drop it. On my first build, we thought it was never going to go in, and then all of a sudden it did. All this assuming the engine mounts you have are compatible with the engine and chassis. I'm betting they are, but I don't have specific knowledge about your engine.

Also agree you will require a spacer under the transmission if it's hitting the frame. As suggested, put something temporary under there (washers, block of wood, whatever) so there's no interference. Then figure out the right spacer thickness once you have the diff installed and can check for the proper angles.

[cfriedman67]

Thanks everyone for the advice. I am checking to see if the motor mounts are correct and will get back at it next week.

[PeteH]

Just an fyi, I had issues with the outside corner of a Lakewood bell housing hitting the diagonal brace where the starter hole is. This was holding up the drivers side mount from dropping into place. I had to use a cutoff wheel to zip off about 1/4" on a 45deg angle of the back edge of the bell housing to allow clearance where the diagonal brace is. Then the drivers side was able to come down on the mount, and there is about 1/4" clearance between the edge of the bell housing and diagonal brace.