Engine Bay Wiring Question

[cnutting]

Finishing up the wiring and have a quick question.

My setup is a carbureted 289 with a mechanical fuel pump, using the RF harness. There is an orange EFI/Coil wire coming from the battery feed block on the fuse panel and a blue EFI Crank Power wire from the ignition switch. Do these both get tied to the coil? The instructions and schematic are vague, probably due to the number of permutations I suppose.

Also (yes, I said one question, but...), the schematic shows a remote solenoid for the starter which is apparently no longer a thing with the complete kits. FFR said that it is not needed with the new starters. So, all the red wires that used to go to the remote solenoid per the schematic now get tied to the large lug on the starter solenoid and the blue wire from the ignition goes to the small lug? Just want to double check to avoid releasing the magic smoke.

Thanks!
Chris

[edwardb]

Finishing up the wiring and have a quick question.

My setup is a carbureted 289 with a mechanical fuel pump, using the RF harness. There is an orange EFI/Coil wire coming from the battery feed block on the fuse panel and a blue EFI Crank Power wire from the ignition switch. Do these both get tied to the coil? The instructions and schematic are vague, probably due to the number of permutations I suppose.

Also (yes, I said one question, but...), the schematic shows a remote solenoid for the starter which is apparently no longer a thing with the complete kits. FFR said that it is not needed with the new starters. So, all the red wires that used to go to the remote solenoid per the schematic now get tied to the large lug on the starter solenoid and the blue wire from the ignition goes to the small lug? Just want to double check to avoid releasing the magic smoke.

Thanks!
Chris

Yes the EFI/Coil to the coil. It has +12V at all times when the ignition is on. No for the blue wire. Without a firewall solenoid, and for your setup, you actually won't use the blue EFI-Crank Power. Use the blue NS SW-START SOL coming out of the clutch safety switch and go directly to the small terminal on the starter. It has +12V only when the ignition key is in the start position (and the clutch is down if you wire it with the switch as shown). It's what triggers the starter solenoid to do it's thing to start the engine. No a firewall solenoid isn't required. Yes you can gather all the wires at the large lug on the starter solenoid. But it does get a little crowded plus will the wires really reach there? There are several ways you can gather the wires in a more convenient location without a solenoid. I personally use a master disconnect centered below the dash. Gives the disconnect function plus a gathering point. Or you could use something like this https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rfw-jb47/overview/.

[2FAST4U]

Have you given any thought to putting the original Lucas components on the firewall but making them non-functional? Just for that period correct look?

Bill D

[cnutting]

Thank you sir! Exactly what I was looking for.
Yes, it does get a bit crowded, but everything reaches. I may use another consolidation point to give a bit more space on the starter lug. Thanks for the suggestion on that as well.

[cnutting]

Have you given any thought to putting the original Lucas components on the firewall but making them non-functional? Just for that period correct look?

Bill D

I hadn't thought about that, but could be a possibility.

[steno]

Have you given any thought to putting the original Lucas components on the firewall but making them non-functional? Just for that period correct look?

Bill D
If you used Lucas parts wouldn't they automatically be there for looks anyway?

[2FAST4U]

If you decide to do it, let me know. I can give you the part numbers. Plus, I have pictures of my layout as well as pics of originals to use as a source.

Bill

[CraigS]

Another option to EdwardBs stud is a pass through stud like this.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Allstar+Performance/049/ALL76142/10002/-1?CAWELAID=230006180000859131&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=15769068431&CATCI=pla-208647220151&gclid=COyO9PelwtECFU5XDQodLV4Kmw
A friend did this on his 33 hot rod. He found he needed to connect batt, alt, and starter on the engine compartment side as well as three wires going to the fusebox inside the car. So this pass through worked great.

[cnutting]

Another option to EdwardBs stud is a pass through stud like this.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Allstar+Performance/049/ALL76142/10002/-1?CAWELAID=230006180000859131&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=15769068431&CATCI=pla-208647220151&gclid=COyO9PelwtECFU5XDQodLV4Kmw
A friend did this on his 33 hot rod. He found he needed to connect batt, alt, and starter on the engine compartment side as well as three wires going to the fusebox inside the car. So this pass through worked great.

Thanks for the tip Craig

[boat737]

If you used Lucas parts wouldn't they automatically be there for looks anyway?

Now that's funny.