Pre-dissassembly tips?

[IowaBen]

I picked up my roadster this week - Yay! Prior to taking off the body and aluminum panels, do you have any suggestions for things I should do e body and panels are still on? I'll try to do a thorough job documenting the location and order of the aluminum panels, and will try to mark whether sides are exposed to weather, open, or carpeted so I can appropriately finish each side at the appropriate time. I had also read somewhere that the seats may need to be positioned after the body is on - should I try to mark them now? Not sure how you would facilitate the go-cart phase if you need to wait for the body.

Anyways - any other suggestions would be appreciated!

Thanks!

[phileas_fogg]

From my build school notes:

Make sure the aluminum panels don’t contact the fiberglass body; this prevents paint chipping and general wear & tear. Before taking off the body, hold a Sharpie flush with the fiberglass body and mark the firewall, back of cockpit in the trunk, and side panels for the trunk to ensure there’s no interference. The distance between the side of the Sharpie (which is flush with the trunk) and the nib will provide adequate clearance for the bulb seal. Take pictures of how panels overlap before removing them so you can refer to them later.

When installing aluminum panels, mark the panels with a Sharpie and the rivet spacing tool, then drill holes in the panels, then clamp the panels against the frame, then mark the frame, then drill holes in the frame, then apply silicone, and finally rivet the panel into place.

In visible areas like the engine bay, mount the aluminum panels such that the flanges are hidden.

Cheers,


John

[edwardb]

Keep in mind the body is installed on the frame with most but not all aluminum panels. Plus there is no bulb seal or cushioning. So while the location of the body is close, it may or may not be exactly where it will be when completed. The aluminum panels as well are close, but may or may not be exactly where they'll be once you start assembling. So my advice is to not make too many decisions about where things are located upon receipt. Take lots of pictures, noting especially how panels are stacked. What's edge is inside, outside, etc. They're pretty precise and that can make a difference when you put it back together. Some go ahead and start drilling after taking the body off. That's OK, just make sure you do so along with all the other aluminum parts that are in the boxes, testing and fitting as you go. Panel assembly is something that IMO is pretty well documented in the manual. Study that carefully as well. I personally wouldn't try to locate the seats now. True you shouldn't do them until the body is on. The clearance at the top outside corner is pretty tight. But I prefer to have the assembly further along before locking down the seats, e.g. steering wheel and pedals installed. That way you can also test for the best driving position in addition to clearing the body. I don't have my seats bolted down for go-kart (safety police alert...) but then I just putt around the neighborhood. Nothing like some of the higher speeds, burnouts, even donuts that I've seen in a few videos.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Number all the panels using the number chart in the instruction book. Draw a line across any panel over laps so you will know which parts edge stays on top when you are reassembling. Marking one side of the panel either inside or outside (weather) is a good plan.

Since I was painting the weather side of all the panels with truck bed liner I did my marking on the inside so the paint prep process did not wash them off. Found it usefull to only clean & paint the few panels I was going to would on at any one time. I drilled my holes before painting them.

So the plan was fit the panel, mark the holes to be drilled, drill, prep it, paint & install. Might seem like a lot but my car was done & ready for painting in about 10 months of 2.5 hour typical work days.

Agree on the seats, the belts will hold you down in a 2AM go cart run. :D Wait till the body is done & on. The seat at the door latch can be an interference point if you put the seat in to soon. Even with a good fit it can be close: I bought leather latch pulls from one of the guys to make it easier to open the door when you are sitting in the car.

[Dave Howard]

My pre-dissassembly in 2012 included tossing a seat in the drivers side and having Mom (age 85) sit in the car. Her warm smile and huge grin were always inspirational. I told her the next time she sits in the car it will be completed and we'd go for a good ride. Unfortunately, she passed away before the car was completed in 2014. Keeping my promise, I strapped her urn in the passenger seat....5 point harness configured as best I could and we had a pleasant drive in the Ottawa Valley. I could hear her laughter as we pulled a few hard gears. RIP Mom. Best co-pilot ever.

[AC Bill]

Already some good advice offered..although.. I wondered about painting the panels after drilling the rivet holes, advice. My thought is the paint would make it more challenging to install the rivets in the holes, due to the paint build up in the holes. If you use a spring punch to act as a guide for the drill bit to start, drilling holes after painting, would be alright. Stick some masking tape along the row to be drilled, if you worry the bit may slip and scratch the paint.

Don't bother marking the seat locations this early in the build..lots of time before you need figure that out.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Was no problem with buildup in the holes. As a matter of course I run an awl into each one when the liner dries. A pointed rasp would also work. Before or after both have advantages disadvantages so its six of one half dozen of the other.