new install manual

[F1 coyote]

Any idea when FF will have the new installation manual for the 2015-2017 coyote crate engine?

[edwardb]

Any idea when FF will have the new installation manual for the 2015-2017 coyote crate engine?

It's been out for a while, and recently had another update. http://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/Coyote-Fitment-Roadster.pdf

[F1 coyote]

I noticed the new manual calls for removing the cooler plates form the filter assembly, do you now need to run a remote oil cooler?

[Vette1972]

Edwardb, In your opinion would these instructions be similar for a Coupe install? I know the Gen 3 is new but seems a good question to ask. Thanks, Len


It's been out for a while, and recently had another update. http://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/Coyote-Fitment-Roadster.pdf

[edwardb]

I noticed the new manual calls for removing the cooler plates form the filter assembly, do you now need to run a remote oil cooler?

That oil cooler was new for the 2015-2016 models. The previous model Coyote didn't have one, and guys have been running them for some years without. I didn't replace it in my build. Some would argue Ford put it there for a reason (which I'm sure they did...) but for our builds the oil temp isn't a problem for regular street cruising.

[edwardb]

Edwardb, In your opinion would these instructions be similar for a Coupe install? I know the Gen 3 is new but seems a good question to ask. Thanks, Len

I have no first hand knowledge of the Coupe (Gen 3 or otherwise) so I can't give a very definitive answer. I would think things like the fuel system and electrical would be similar if not the same. Mechanical aspects, like the motor mounts, intake, exhaust, etc. I don't know. From the pictures I've seen of the Gen 3 with the engine FF installed (supercharged Coyote I believe) plus the live video stream of a Gen 3 build this past weekend (also a Coyote) looks like the chassis has plenty of room. That's good. In addition to the FF instructions, best thing you can do if you haven't already is to download the Controls Pack instructions from the Ford Performance website. Study/memorize that thing back to back. It has details that aren't included in the FF instructions, plus it really helps IMO to know how they show it being installed.

[F1 coyote]

I think I'll just put the cooler plates on the remote unit. The question now is how to plumb it.

[edwardb]

I think I'll just put the cooler plates on the remote unit. The question now is how to plumb it.

For the record (and perhaps clarification) the oil heat exchanger that's installed on the 2015-2016 Coyote doesn't route engine oil. It's designed to have engine coolant go through it. Oil coolers that are typically installed in our builds typically route engine oil through a cooler in the front of the body. An oil filter relocation kit is used and then a loop through the cooler if used. Some discussion about both here: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?7816-Coyote-Oil-Filter-Relocation-Kit

Not to go too far off topic, but it's not clear really whether the heat exchanger on the 2015-2016 Coyote is an oil cooler or oil heater. This was discussed at some length in another thread on the other forum some months ago. Since oil temp typically lags behind coolant temp, especially in colder weather, some suggest what's on the Coyote is intended to get the oil to a higher operating temperature more quickly. This would only apply to a street driven car though. Track use oil temp typically goes way higher.

[F1 coyote]

Interesting, I never thought of that way. I knew it ran coolant through it but, I didn't think it would be used for heating the oil. I contacted ford today, they sent me a diagram explaining the coolant flow, like others I'm not sure if it's really neccecery, not sure what I'll do.

[F1 coyote]

Looking at the diagram I got from ford, the bottom stock rad. hose has a feed port coming off the left bottom side of the hose that feeds cooled coolant to the back side of the oil cooler then returns back through the front port on the cooler to a different port on the bottom hose just behind the feed port. I'm not sure how I would pull this off. I tell ya ford makes things challenging. Any ideas how to splice two ports off a rad. hose to accomadate for the feed and return to supply coolant to the oil cooler?

[edwardb]

Looking at the diagram I got from ford, the bottom stock rad. hose has a feed port coming off the left bottom side of the hose that feeds cooled coolant to the back side of the oil cooler then returns back through the front port on the cooler to a different port on the bottom hose just behind the feed port. I'm not sure how I would pull this off. I tell ya ford makes things challenging. Any ideas how to splice two ports off a rad. hose to accomadate for the feed and return to supply coolant to the oil cooler?

None of the Factory Five models have room for the 2015-2016 Coyote oil heat exchanger, so standard practice is to remove it. I don't think you're going to get much help here on how to plumb it.

[Dave Howard]

Remove the oil cooler. And while you're at it, remove the gaudy vacuum motors at the rear of the engine. Also, replace the the PCV hoses with a couple of K&N filters. That will clean up the appearance of the engine. Otherwise, it looks like every other Coyote in all the Mustang GTs out there.

[F1 coyote]

I appreciate all the advise guys, it's just that I heard that the coyote heads get pretty warm especially around the number eight cylinder. I believe the newer engine has larger valves, which I would think could add to the heat. I think at the very least I should run an oil cooler in front of the radiator just to keep things manageable and reliable. I hope to take many trips in this classic.

[edwardb]

And while you're at it, remove the gaudy vacuum motors at the rear of the engine.

Those vacuum motors were added to the 2015-2016 Coyote (called Gen 2 by Ford) and are for the CMCV (charge motion control valves) that were added. According to their literature they are for emissions and low speed idle quality. The motors can be removed and the runners locked full open (aftermarket parts available, not very expensive) but pretty sure you'll need a custom tune to tell the PCM they're always open and to suppress related DTC's. At least that was the case with the former mod motors where it was pretty routine to lock them open.

BTW, this is in interesting document. Explains all the differences between the Gen 1 and Gen 2 Coyote in some detail. https://performanceparts.ford.com/download/PDFS/FPP_Gen_2_Coyote_Technical_Reference_2-16.pdf. Just noticed they do call the oil heat exchanger an "Oil Cooler."

[2bking]

I appreciate all the advise guys, it's just that I heard that the coyote heads get pretty warm especially around the number eight cylinder. I believe the newer engine has larger valves, which I would think could add to the heat. I think at the very least I should run an oil cooler in front of the radiator just to keep things manageable and reliable. I hope to take many trips in this classic.
I'm running a 2013 Coyote, street only, and don't have a remote cooler or oil filter. The oil temperature gauge is somewhat useless even here in Texas where the daily summer temperatures get over 100 F. With the AC "on" the oil temperature gauge never gets off the peg except for sitting in traffic. The highest oil temperature I've noticed is 240F but quickly goes back to the peg once the car is moving. With the air temps below 80F the coolant temp reported on the dash gauge sits around 160F and doesn't rise until stopped in traffic. The radiator fan comes on about 190F and goes off when the car is moving again. The aluminum block expels heat much more than the iron ones and transmits the heat into the transmission.