12V Power socket wiring

[RickP]

I have installed a Power Socket under the dash and was wondering how someone else has wired their unit up. I bought the socket from DelCity

https://www.delcity.net/store/Auxiliary-12-Volt-Power-Socket/p_801417.h_801418.t_1

but it has no amp rating so I'm a little confused on wire gauge and fuse size. My original thought was to run a 14 gauge wire from battery to it with a 10amp fuse in between but I would have to run another wire through the firewall and hoping to "tap" into something handy. Like say for instance the RF radio memory wire.

Any guidance is much appreciated.

[wareaglescott]

I have installed a Power Socket under the dash and was wondering how someone else has wired their unit up. I bought the socket from DelCity

https://www.delcity.net/store/Auxiliary-12-Volt-Power-Socket/p_801417.h_801418.t_1

but it has no amp rating so I'm a little confused on wire gauge and fuse size. My original thought was to run a 14 gauge wire from battery to it with a 10amp fuse in between but I would have to run another wire through the firewall and hoping to "tap" into something handy. Like say for instance the RF radio memory wire.

Any guidance is much appreciated.

I used the heater wire from the RF harness as I dont have a heater. Then just ran the ground to the frame. Radio wire would work just the same.
Mine was a USB plug for charging my phone so I wasn't to concerned about amp draw or fuses. Figured the fuse in the fuse box for the heater would be fine.

[RickP]

I used the heater wire from the RF harness as I dont have a heater. Then just ran the ground to the frame. Radio wire would work just the same.
Mine was a USB plug for charging my phone so I wasn't to concerned about amp draw or fuses. Figured the fuse in the fuse box for the heater would be fine.

sounds like I have some options. I'm not running a heater or radio

[Bob Cowan]

Lots of options, depending on what wiring harness you used. Which circuit to tap in to depends on whether you want it switched or not switched. The radio memory wire is usually pretty low amperage. Some things can draw a lot of amps, like a good air compressor. If you have an A/C circuit, that would be a good one.

I put a plug in the trunk and under the dash. The one in the trunk was not switched, but the one in the dash was.

[edwardb]

What are you planning to use it for? That's the first question. Do you want it switched or unswitched, as Bob mentioned? I've put a couple under the dash of my builds, and figured they might be used for heavier things like heated blanket or jackets maybe, so tended to go a little heavier on the current. But never used them for that. Mainly I use them for my GPS. (Still like the dedicated Garmin one better than my smart phone...) Between what you're planning on using it for and what circuits you might have on the RF panel not being used, I bet you can find something. Agreed though radio memory might be a little light plus it's an unswitched circuit. On my current build I used the cooling fan circuit since the Coyote has its own cooling fan circuit. Other candidates might be the heater, choke, fuel pump, all depending on your build. If nothing available, not that hard to add another circuit with a circuit breaker.

[RickP]

What are you planning to use it for? That's the first question. Do you want it switched or unswitched, as Bob mentioned? I've put a couple under the dash of my builds, and figured they might be used for heavier things like heated blanket or jackets maybe, so tended to go a little heavier on the current. But never used them for that. Mainly I use them for my GPS. (Still like the dedicated Garmin one better than my smart phone...) Between what you're planning on using it for and what circuits you might have on the RF panel not being used, I bet you can find something. Agreed though battery memory might be a little light plus it's an unswitched circuit. On my current build I used the cooling fan circuit since the Coyote has its own cooling fan circuit. Other candidates might be the heater, choke, fuel pump, all depending on your build. If nothing available, not that hard to add another circuit with a circuit breaker.

'Hi Paul,

I'm thinking my GPS would be the sole culprit. To be honest, I don't really know what it will be used for but figured I might as well install it now instead of trying to retrofit it after the body goes on.

I don't have a heater, choke, or radio. I would prefer to have it always hot but if for ease of installation, a switched source will work as well. I do like the option Bob has where another plug is in the trunk.

Since I'm EFI, the choke is looking like a good candidate.

[edwardb]

Hi Paul, I'm thinking my GPS would be the sole culprit. To be honest, I don't really know what it will be used for but figured I might as well install it now instead of trying to retrofit it after the body goes on.

I don't have a heater, choke, or radio. I would prefer to have it always hot but if for ease of installation, a switched source will work as well. I do like the option Bob has where another plug is in the trunk.

Since I'm EFI, the choke is looking like a good candidate.

Choke wire with the stock 10 amp fuse is a good candidate. It's long enough you could strip it out of the harness and get it right to the center dash and hook to your outlet directly.

Since you don't have a heater, that also is a good candidate and slightly more current available at 20 amps. Wire is also plenty long to reach the center dash. It's also in the ACC section of the RF panel, so would be on with your key in the ACC position. If that's any value to you.

Personally, I prefer a switched outlet. Saves surprises if you leave something plugged in that's still drawing current. I managed to strand myself a few years ago leaving my GPS plugged into a rental car overnight not realizing it was an unswitched outlet. Major pain.

[RickP]

Choke wire with the stock 10 amp fuse is a good candidate. It's long enough you could strip it out of the harness and get it right to the center dash and hook to your outlet directly.

Since you don't have a heater, that also is a good candidate and slightly more current available at 20 amps. Wire is also plenty long to reach the center dash. It's also in the ACC section of the RF panel, so would be on with your key in the ACC position. If that's any value to you.

Personally, I prefer a switched outlet. Saves surprises if you leave something plugged in that's still drawing current. I managed to strand myself a few years ago leaving my GPS plugged into a rental car overnight not realizing it was an unswitched outlet. Major pain.

I think the heater wire is it then. I already tapped into the courtesy light wiring and the heater wire is in the very same wire loom AND I already have a distribution block hanging in that location/ Perfect. I second the "switched" circuit as I am notorious for leaving power snagging accessories plugged in for long periods of time unattended.

Thank you everyone for the input. I have a clear path in my head on what to do.

[Dave Howard]

I have a battery disconnect switch mounted on the cockpit back wall between the seats. I mounted a fused 12V power socket under the switch and wired it directly to the terminals on the switch. Simple wiring. Kept the dash area free of clutter, especially with a device plugged in. The device and power cord can be placed between the seats and the power cord won't hang around the shifter.