Possible HAAT Fused distribution block in trunk: Thoughts?

[DadofThree]

I recently purchased a Fuse Block that I plan to use for some accessories:

Photo of unit - comes with cover (Not my installation)
https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5774/30893739862_b38812a0c4.jpg


Example:
1.Courtesy lights in cubby, trunk, cabin
2. A couple of 12V supplies and a USB charger
3. Possible HAAT distribution
(I'm tired, can't think of my other items right now)

I was trying to find a good spot on the firewall, but cannot really come up with a spot that I'll be able to reach the fuses well. After recently mounting some courtesy lights in the trunk/cubby hole, I was thinking that I may be able to put this fuse block in the trunk area. My battery is in the rear and I'll be able to see/reach the fuses. I'd also be able to run straight to the fuse block from the battery without involving the disconnect. I'm thinking to mount it on the wall for the cubby, with the fuses facing the trunk space.

The RF fuse panel which runs the car will still be mounted in the front on the drivers side. And all other vehicle wiring will still be done behind the dash. This fuse block is only for the "extras" in the system that the RF doesn't support. One smaller gauge that will come from the battery and power this fuse panel. I'll still have the Heavier gauge wire going to the starter/rf fuse panel etc.

I think it would make it simpler than mounting behind the dash.

Has anyone done something like this? Any reason why it wouldn't be a good idea?

Thanks,
Dave

[CraigS]

I haven't seen that exactly in an FFR but some of the ISIS/Infinity system have essentially the same thing in the trunk area. I have seen fuse and relay boxes in the trunk on several daily drivers over the years so the concept makes sense.

[JIMOCO]

61756

How many accessories are you adding? I kept mine simple. I have the hot to my FFR fuse box attached to my battery cutoff switch. Everything shuts down except for some accessories. I have a constant hot wired to a six position terminal block with an inline 15 amp fuse. I have my clock, radio memory, under hood and courtesy lights (leds), and cigarette lighter (phone charger and USB) connected to the remaining positions (diagram attached). My 900 watt amplifier is connected directly to the battery with two inline 30 amp fuses.

[boat737]

I managed to get two fuse blocks in the DS foot box, along with two heater vents. It all fit pretty well, considering the lack of space in these cars. The powered block has unswitched power to keyless/push-start/alarm system and parking brake warning (electric parking brake actuator). The unpowered/in-line block has low voltage warning, emergency lights (alarm activated), heater servo valve, and clock. The original builder added a Painless switched/unswitched fuse block on the far starboard firewall. That has hot circuits for accessory plugs, trunk and engine LEDs, and electric parking brake actuator. The switched circuits have turn signal (Russ Thompson setup) and reverse light, fresh air blowers, seat heaters, and a switched power for the keyless/push-start system. The clock is the only thing on the car that isn't run through the 100 amp circuit breaker/master cutoff, but it does have it's own on/off switch if needed. The standard stuff like the heater blower, lights, radio, radio memory, etc are all standard Ron Francis wired through the RF fuse block.