MK4 steering set up

[srobinsonx2]

I know you experts are probably tired of the steering set up questions but I am stilled a little unclear as to the steps I need to take to center the rack.

Some info that might help. I am using a complete kit with a power steering rack (2 1/2 turns lock to lock) from FFR and installed with the supplied rubber bushings.

I have read through quite a few steering threads and I understand the moving portion of the rack needs to be centered in the suspension. Below are some pictures that illustrate the reference points I used and the measurements I got. Feel free to correct me if I am headed down the wrong path.

Essentially I used the inside of the frame and measured to the inside of the spacer on the inside of the ball joints on the end of the power steering rack. I chose the frame because I thought that would be the same on both sides in relationship to the upper control arm mount. The measurements were made with the steering wheel in the middle, between the lock on both sides. The driver side measured 9/16" while the passenger side measured 1/8". Also, at lock the wheels contact the F panels. At lock the measurement is still about a 1/2" longer on the driver side. So my confusion is how to properly fix both the driver side bias on the steering rack and the F panel contact. I am sure it has been explained but I don't fully understand

1. Do I need to use a different reference point?
2. Do I simply put spacers on the both sides to prevent the wheels from contacting the F panels? If so, then should I put more on the passenger side to compensate for the approximately 1/2" additional space on the drivers side?
3. I read about some using Breeze bushings that have appeared to help. Is that the correct solution for centering the rack? I assume I would still need some spacers to prevent the F panel contact.
4. I am planning on using the car on the street. I understand the affects of bump steer but do not know how to solve it or if I should even care about it. Per others bump steer has been solved in the MK4 so I assume once I solve the two problems above I should not have to worry about bump steer. Is that correct.

Driver side
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61474&d=1480385213
Passenger side
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61475&d=1480385216

Again sorry for all the stupid questions.

[wareaglescott]

I'm sure someone will provide a better answer but..
Could you center the rack up so the measurements are equal and then adjust the steering wheel so it is centered up based on that? Adjust the shaft on the rack accordingly. My wheel is removable so it made it really easy for me.

I also used the breeze offset rack mounting kit. Don't have the directions handy right now but I believe the centering process was turning the wheel full lock one direction and taking a measurement then going full lock the other way and taking a measurement and figuring the difference to center it. I can find the directions tomorrow if you still need them.

I used some of the breeze spacers to keep my wheels off the F panels. Prior to putting the motor in and the car on jacks they were hitting even with the spacers. After the motor was in and the weight was sitting on the front end the problem was much less. I wouldn't be to concerned about the F panel rub at this point. Just ensure the rack is centered for now.

Don't worry about asking dumb questions. I have posed about 1000 of those and always got great help and learned a lot at the same time.

[srobinsonx2]

wareaglescott,

Thanks bud. That makes sense. So just turn the steering wheel until the rack is centered (same measurement on each side to the frame) and then reinstall the tie rod ends for the correct toe in? I can do that. The only question I have is when I go to lock. The passenger side hits lock and is barely touching the F panel. I think at the correct ride height the rubbing may be corrected on this side (just as you pointed out). On the driver side the tire is hard against the F panel at lock. As a matter of fact, I think the F panel is stopping the rack and not the spacer. It appears to be close to lock on the rack but I am not sure. Either way there is definitely more contact with the F panel on the drivers side. That is why I think the 1/2" difference might need to be corrected. If I could move the rack over a 1/4" then I would have the rack centered and should essentially have the same amount of F panel contact on each side. I could then see what happens at ride height and install spacers if needed.

Does any of that make sense? Sorry for rambling and thanks for the quick response.

FYI i have enjoyed your build thread. It keeps me motivated.

[karlos]

This may help. http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?19175-Steering-Rack-Install-Setup-Procedure

[JRL16]

Once you get your rack centered you can worry about the steering limiters ( guess that's what they're called ). I had to put in three on each side to keep the wheels from hitting the f panels and the brake tubes. Got them from Breeze. They make a nice kit for mounting the rack. It keeps the drivers side boot from hitting the upright on the frame. Is yours hitting? You can also cut the flange off of the FFR supplied bushing on the front only and slip the disc shaped flange behind the rear installed bushing. Works great and doesn't cost anything.

[wareaglescott]

wareaglescott,

Thanks bud. That makes sense. So just turn the steering wheel until the rack is centered (same measurement on each side to the frame) and then reinstall the tie rod ends for the correct toe in? I can do that. The only question I have is when I go to lock. The passenger side hits lock and is barely touching the F panel. I think at the correct ride height the rubbing may be corrected on this side (just as you pointed out). On the driver side the tire is hard against the F panel at lock. As a matter of fact, I think the F panel is stopping the rack and not the spacer. It appears to be close to lock on the rack but I am not sure. Either way there is definitely more contact with the F panel on the drivers side. That is why I think the 1/2" difference might need to be corrected. If I could move the rack over a 1/4" then I would have the rack centered and should essentially have the same amount of F panel contact on each side. I could then see what happens at ride height and install spacers if needed.

Does any of that make sense? Sorry for rambling and thanks for the quick response.

FYI i have enjoyed your build thread. It keeps me motivated.

Setting toe in is a completely different function. You can adjust the tie rods ends down the road when you do the alignment by loosening the nuts and tightening/loosening the rod to the desired setting. Toe is going to be affected by camber and caster adjustments also so trying to set that at this point is not going to accomplish much. Also the alignment and ride height adjustments will affect how much the tire contacts the F panel. Definitely don't worry about the F panel rub problem as your primary concern right now. For now you just need to make sure the rack is centered. So in regards to one F panel hitting worse than the other yes fix that but don't be concerned if there is an equal rub on both sides after you take care of that.
I do want to give the disclaimer that I have done this once only on my car so I am no expert. Just trying to share what worked for me.

The key is you need the rack truly centered as your starting point. If it is not you will have a different turning radius in one direction than the other.

The breeze instructions for the 70634 solid offset (centering) rack mounting kit say the following for centering. (Now keep in mind that rack allows some adjustment for centering by rotating the bushings but the centering process should still apply):

"To center the rack to the frame: manually turn the rack to the right hand locked position. Level the outer tie rod end and use a framers square to measure the distance from the tip of the right outer tie rod end to a reference point on the right hand 2" x 3" vertical chassis member. Record the measurement.
Then, manually turn the rack to the left hand locked position and take a similar measurement from the tip of the left hand tie rod end to the left hand 2" x 3" chassis member. Compare the measurements. Find the difference and divide by two. This is the distance you will need to move the rack.
Your goal is to position the rack so the measurements are the same on both sides effectively centering the range of rack travel in the chassis"

The breeze kit was a nice option for me. If you are interested in that I think you will like it. I don't think out is absolutely necessary by any means though. Main thing is just make sure the rack is centered and the wheel is straight when it is centered at this point.

[CraigS]

A few thoughts for you. 1- I don't think that measuring your steering wheel rotation and then halving it is too accurate. At least it isn't for me. Close, but to use that, and then make the measurements you illustrate, I think is asking too much. If you now turn you wheel maybe an inch, your measurements might be equal. 2- OTOH, although it may be camera angle, it looks to me like the end of you rack housing compared to that same frame piece is a little off from side to side. It looks to me like, if you used Breeze offset mounts, so you could move the entire rack to the passenger side, then the measurements you have illustrated would even out. 3- Once you get the rack centered and the wheel centered, your ride heights set and your alignment completed, then you can work on f panel contact. If it is still a bit different side to side don't worry, it is not uncommon to have one more spacer on one side or the other. 4- The one MkIV that I have checked bump steer on was nearly perfect as is. We had gotten 6.5 deg positive caster which helps w/ bump steer.