Pulleys

[first time builder]

I built wasthaulers FFR MK 3 over 8 years ago and cant remember what pulley system we used. The car has probably 10K miles on it. The engine is a Tall deck 351 /427 with Roush heads. WE only have a water pump (standard rotation) and an alternator. We elected to use a v belt system. The problem we have is, this is the third time the Alternator mounting bolt, the long bottom one that goes into the head , has snapped. This engine is kind of "Nasty". Has approx 500 Hp. Vibrates quite a bit. We are trying to find another system that would work and now would be willing to think about a serpentine belt system.

Help Anybody have any ideas?

Kenny

[Railroad]

A second supporting brace under the head of the same bolt should do the trick. A turn buckle style will be more adaptable. If it would be easier, you might incorporate a spring loaded idler pulley. The spring idler will move, instead of flexing the long alt bolt. A pic would help.
Second thought, the second brace benefit will increase with the difference in angle to the attachment from the first brace. Hope that makes some kind of sense.

[first time builder]

Railroad, I thought of what you say but there is no place to secure the other end of the brace. I was thinking of replacing the aluminum space behind the alt at the head with a steel bushing and weld a bracket to it to secure to the other hole in the head that will help to secure the long bolt ?

I found a replacement bolt at McMaster Carr that they say is stronger than grade 8 ? I'll try to find a picture and post it.
Thanks, Kenny

[first time builder]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/March-Performance-Ford-351W-Alternator-Bracket-/112205211801?hash=item1a1ff3a899:g:fQcAAOSwZVlXkXl w&vxp=mtr


This is what we have.
Kenny

[Avalanche325]

CFR is good for a serpentine setup that won't break the bank. Not sure about standard rotation on that one.

There are other ones out there like Joes Racing, etc that may have a more supportive bracket.

[Railroad]

Try and visualize some flat stock between the alt and the alum spacer and a location to attach the other end too. You will have to shorten the alum space the thickness of new bracket. There may be a good location on the front of the water pump to tie off the other end.
A second option will be to come off the adjuster at the alt with something like 1/2" angle and tie off to one of the pan bolts. You may have to lap 2 pieces with slots since this end needs to be adjustable also.
I feel confident any additional bracing will eliminate the bolt breakage.
Good luck,

[first time builder]

Avalanche, What or who is CFR ? and Joes doesn't have any Brackets listed on web site.
Thanks
Kenny


EDIT: I found an add for CFR ,they make some type adapter bracket but not 100% sure of wher it goes they dont show photos. I might have to call them. Thanks for your help.

[Boydster]

Jones Racing Products Ford alternator brackets (http://www.jonesracingproducts.com/alt.html#ford)

[first time builder]

Thanks Boydster , I'll call them but looks like the second one works with the very small alt. The first looks similar to the Powermaster one.

Kenny

[Avalanche325]

Jones Racing Products Ford alternator brackets (http://www.jonesracingproducts.com/alt.html#ford)

LOL. I originally typed Jones, then changed it to Joes. Shouldn't have second guessed myself.

[frankb]

Have you considered using an ARP stud instead of a bolt? Studs are stronger than a bolt, and cause less wear in the threaded hole in the head because the stud does not rotate during belt adjustment.

[first time builder]

Frankb, yes I did think about it but the bolt is actually a round allen head that recesses into the bracket. A friend of mine that is quite knowledgeable said I might be better off with a grade 5 bolt as it wont be as brittle as a grade 8. I believe the original bolt (lasted the longest) was a grade 5. then I went to grade 8. and breaking one every year.
I did this time make a spacer to take up the difference in the bracket and use a bolt with a standard head because I could not locally obtain a socket head bolt. That didnt work it broke again. Think I'll try a version of Railroads idea. Make triangle flat steel to match bolt holes in head and weld spacer to it with two gussets at angles. Hopefully that will reduce the stress on the bolt.

Kenny

[Mark Reynolds]

Make sure your 7/16" bolt is not bottoming out in the cylinder head. You may need to trim about 2 threads off the tip to be sure the bolt remains in tension at all times.

[first time builder]

Mark thanks for the tip, I overlooked checking that but the bolt did tighten up. I'll look at the bottom of the old bolt when I take it out. Last time a small pick was all that was needed to remove the broken piece.
Kenny

[first time builder]

67270 UPDATE

I finaly made up the bracket to mount the alternator to the head , I also ordered all new aluminum front brackets. Waiting for the brackets to arrive.
Also the bolt does not bottom out.
Kenny