Bike Fenders

[Brave Salmon]

I am looking at mounting the front and read bike fenders.
First, On the rear I can position the fender into the well and rotate it until the gap is as small as possible. That leaves me with the tail end of the fender about 2" below the rolled rear of the body. It seems to be where it wants to live. The instructions call for using riv-nuts up through the fender into the body instead of horizontally through the inside flange of the fender into the side of the body. I guess that will work but I wanted insight into the small gap that will exist after installing the fender. Has anyone tried using fender welting to close this gap? Or will using the riv-nuts allow the fender to pull up enough to close the gap?

Second, on the front fenders, they call for the bolts to go through the fender mounts and then through the fender with nuts on the inside. I am considering drilling out and tapping the mounts so that I can bolt the fenders on from the inside using stainless socket head bolts in 5/16. Once installed, the bolts could be cut to length if the stick out to far. Has this been tried and does it work out ok? Thanks

[NAZ]

Brave Salmon, when using rivet nuts in fiberglass (or thin gauge metal) consider using the ones designed for plastic. They look something like drywall anchors where as you tighten the screw the body forms pedals that expand and provide more surface area to resist pulling out of soft materials. McMaster-Carr caries them. Attached is a photo of these installed with back up washers holding my firewall on.
61398

[amasciarelli21]

Hey Brave Salmon, its normal for fenders to hang past body, actually i found that in order to get mine to sit level w/ body i had to push them back pretty far.
The riv nuts work fine, i mounted through top and rear flange. As far as the gap goes you could slightly fill gap at body w/ fiberglass or filler. I had wondered if you could use fender welting as used on the original cars of the era i know speedway motors has it.

Ang

[Brave Salmon]

Brave Salmon, when using rivet nuts in fiberglass (or thin gauge metal) consider using the ones designed for plastic. They look something like drywall anchors where as you tighten the screw the body forms pedals that expand and provide more surface area to resist pulling out of soft materials. McMaster-Carr caries them. Attached is a photo of these installed with back up washers holding my firewall on.
61398

Thanks, Naz,
I used them where I had no access on the firewall as well. I wonder if they are avail in stainless? As pricey as they are they should be made if gold! Thanks

[Olli]

I used welting...

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d101/ollijo/HRassembly017_zps805b0222.jpg

[amasciarelli21]

Hi Oli, welting looks good i've seen many pictures of your 33 and never noticed it. Did you get the welting from speedway? and how did you attach it

Ang

[NAZ]

The welting looks great! Very finished look Olli. BTW, what color silver is that?

[Olli]

The silver is House of Kolor, Orion Silver BC-02. The welting came from here, http://dennis-carpenter.com/fender-welt/p/48-16070/

Olli

[NAZ]

Thanks Olli.