Engine installed - hopefully last time

[ThickCobra]

Saturday I installed my engine with the assistance of my 3 sons. I will cherish that day. Though it took several tries adjusting the boom, repositioning jack stands, and getting the engine mounts to cooperate, it was well worth it. And, high fives all around when it finally dropped in place. I believe they were more excited than their old man...if that's possible.

I will attempt to chronicle my progress and challenges at least on this area and maybe it will be helpful to others. For those that aren't familar with my set up,

351w, Quick Fuel carb 780 cfm
Pertronix ignition
Mechanical fuel pump
Cobra air cleaner
TKO 600 transmission
Wilwood hydraulic clutch

1. Two immediate observations after the installation. Engine and transmission were tilted down in the rear and the rear of the Canton oil pan was exposed below the 4" frame tubes. If I lift the rear of the transmission it solved a little of the oil pan issue. But, I also discovered the rear of the trans was resting on the 4" frame tube. After some searching on the forum I read that it wasn't uncommon to need spacers to raise the transmission. I now have that addressed as someone recommended adding aluminum bar stock from McMaster. But, I haven't solved my oil pan issue.

2. I found the Pro 5 mid shifter would not fit as it wouldn't clear the 1" cross member of the transmission tunnel. It appears it may fit if I moved the engine, and therefore, the transmission forward slightly. This may also solve my oil pan clearance issue. I'm not certain what to do as I don't want to start adjusting engine mounts. I should note that the drive shaft went in smoothly and has maybe 1/4"exposure. Also, the mounts came with the complete kit and are for the 351.

3. Air cleaner sits rather high so...may have the lack-of-clearance issue others have.

Ideas, thoughts?

Jay

[edwardb]

My thoughts:

1. I'd solve the transmission spacer situation first. You'll want to raise it the proper amount to get your pinion angle where it needs to be. Then assess the oil pan. How much is it below then? If a lot, maybe you have the wrong pan? If it's only a little (like fractions of an inch) I probably wouldn't worry about it. Your setup isn't unusual, so it can be solved.

2. I'd move or even remove the cross pieces in the transmission tunnel long before I'd think about moving the engine. That has all kinds of consequences, like driveshaft you mentioned, engine mounts, side pipe/header alignment with the body cutouts, etc. I wouldn't go there. Very common for guys to adjust the transmission tunnel pieces based on their shifter choice.

3. A common problem with the 351 block due to the higher deck height. What intake? Some are higher than others. You'll probably need to go to another air cleaner, with a dropped base.

[ThickCobra]

My thoughts:

1. I'd solve the transmission spacer situation first. You'll want to raise it the proper amount to get your pinion angle where it needs to be. Then assess the oil pan. How much is it below then? If a lot, maybe you have the wrong pan? If it's only a little (like fractions of an inch) I probably wouldn't worry about it. Your setup isn't unusual, so it can be solved.

2. I'd move or even remove the cross pieces in the transmission tunnel long before I'd think about moving the engine. That has all kinds of consequences, like driveshaft you mentioned, engine mounts, side pipe/header alignment with the body cutouts, etc. I wouldn't go there. Very common for guys to adjust the transmission tunnel pieces based on their shifter choice.

3. A common problem with the 351 block due to the higher deck height. What intake? Some are higher than others. You'll probably need to go to another air cleaner, with a dropped base.

1. I am adding a 1" aluminum stock spacer to lift the transmission. The transmission and drive shaft will line up very well. And this raises the Canton oil pan enough where the rear of the pan just peaks out below the 4" tube. Yes, fractions of an inch. I assumed any amount below the frame was risky. It sounds like I needn't worry.

2. I'll need to give the mid shifter fitment some thought.

3. I have an Edelbrock intake and its not stout.

[Alig2]

For comparison:

351w, Energy Suspension mounts, Edelbrock RPM performer intake (not air gap), quick fuel 750, Summit 14" dia air cleaner (3 in filter, 1 in drop base)
Nut and trimmed stud clear bottom of hood by 1/2"
But I will be trying to fit an oval one, will probably need the base modified for sure with some soft of drop and perhaps a slight tilt.

Good luck

[karlos]

We're using different mid-shifters but I would think they're somewhat similar. You may be able to get it to work without having to do anything more than finding the right compromise between pinion angle and clearance to the crossmember. I had lots of shifter clearance prior to shimming up the back of the transmission as required to get the pinion angle where I wanted it. Couldn't use more than roughly a 3/4" thick spacer under the transmission mount or the shifter would contact the crossmember. Would have liked to run about a 1" thick spacer, but this got me close enough and still left adequate clearance to the shifter.



http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55088&d=1466045969

[skullandbones]

Hi Jay,

I remember how interesting it was placing the engine/trans combo in the engine bay and how moving one side or the trans just a very little bit affected everything else. This was especially true with the way the engine sat on the motor mount brackets. I don't know if it is true for yours but if there is a R and L version make sure they are on the correct side. I wouldn't get excited until you get the engine and trans spacing just the way you want it. If you can get the trans spacer large enough it may solve the oil pan clearing the frame rails. I love the 351W but it really is challenging with that extra deck height.

Good luck,

WEK.

[CraigS]

I use this filter on my 351 w/ Performer RPM intake
Spectre Performance ExtraFlow Air Cleaners 47622
RE; trans spacer. You don't mention your rear suspension type so can't help much there other than to say a spacer is common. Pls create a signature line w/ some car specs. that is really helpful

[ThickCobra]

I tried to post 2 pics from my photo bucket, 1 of the oil pan below the frame and 1 of the Pro 5 shifter not cooperating. If anyone can do it for me, have at it. They are in my profile photo bucket.

[Gumball]

Jay,

Not uncommon for larger capacity oil pans to hang a small amount below the 4" cross tube. I have a Canton 7 qt pan on my car and it is about 1/4" or so below the cross tube and hasn't posed a problem at all. I am careful, though, to avoid things in the road - often more prudent to just swerve around small obstructions.

[JIMOCO]

TREMEC has a free smart phone app that allows you to use your phone to measure the angle between transmission, drive shaft and pinion. I found it helpful.

[RR20AC]

Hi Jay, I have same setup as you but also have the Holley EFI. The drop base filter would not work with this. My spacer is 3/4 of an inch. Made it out of 6 pieces of 1 inch by 1/8 inch steel, 4.5 inches long. This lined up my side pipes well. Drive shaft is almost straight on. Very little space between the TKO 600 and the end of the drive shaft. It is a dust cover on the end of the tranny and the actual seal is inside about 3/4 of an inch. Factory Five uses the tremec mid sifter and no mods needed. Pro sifter is what I have and I cut the center brace. Not happy about it, but done.

[ThickCobra]

Thanks all and here's an update. I added a 1" tall by 2" wide by 7" long spacer of aluminum stock from McMaster-Carr. After a call to Mike, I will also need to cut the 1" crossbar to allow the mid shifter to fit. As for the air cleaner, I think I'll wait till the body is on to worry about that. Next, I'll install the headers and exhaust and check fitment.