View Full Version : overheating
My car has overheated a couple of times this past week. Granted it has been very hot in the Baltimore area, but should I worry?
what could be causing that? what can I do to prevent it?
I've topped off the anti freeze.
I drive at very low RPM, (basically idle at high gear)
I don't drive long distances...
etc..
the anti freeze comes out of the reservoir.
what do you guys think?
Mustang Man
06-11-2011, 07:55 PM
Rome, bud, we need some details here to help...
Engine type/size, water pump and front dress setup, size/type of radiator, cooling hose routing/setup, type of fan, etc. A good photo of the engine bay showing the hoses, rad, pump, etc. might tip us off too...
HTH...
Mark
sorry MM,.. I have a crate engine from the engine Factory. a 351 Windsor with 400 HP. everything else, including the radiator and fan are from the Mark III complete kit. Here is a pic of the engine bay as requested.
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m207/rome_011/IMG_4343.jpg
Jeff Kleiner
06-12-2011, 06:49 AM
For starters, your filler needs to be at the highest point or you'll have air trapped. From the looks of things in the photo you have it on the downhill side of the hose.
Jeff
Mustang Man
06-12-2011, 10:24 AM
Ok, now we know the specs/details. For a base 351 build like that the stock complete kit rad/fan should handle things...
The filler location is not ideal, but shouldn't cause a major overheating issue unless you haven't fully "burped" the system of all air. If you have more of that chrome coolant hose stuff you might want to route it over the top of the alternator and then curve it forward towards the radiator, like this:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v374/Carman_Weddle/My%20FFR/DSCF5747Small.jpg
Then the cap will be level and the highest point. Not my engine bay BTW...
The other thing to double check is your fan direction. I've seen lots of these fans wired backwards and they blow towards the rad instead of pull air through it. Not a major issue standing still, but going down the road the air coming in cancels out the fan, causing dead air and no cooling. How is the fan wired? Temp switch, manual switch, etc?
Mark
Jack FFR1846
06-12-2011, 03:00 PM
Do you have an overflow tank that will allow fluid/air to purge from the cap into it.....and then refull the system from the bottom?
Also, what's going on with the radiator itself. You can either put a higher pressure cap on it and plug the overflow or fully plug it. You can't really leave the overflow open or it'll suck air in. I've got a T and run both the radiator and in line overflow lines into the overflow tank. 16# on the in line and 22# (mercedes) on the radiator. I have had no issues in 10 years on the road.
Ok, now we know the specs/details. For a base 351 build like that the stock complete kit rad/fan should handle things...
The filler location is not ideal, but shouldn't cause a major overheating issue unless you haven't fully "burped" the system of all air. If you have more of that chrome coolant hose stuff you might want to route it over the top of the alternator and then curve it forward towards the radiator, like this:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v374/Carman_Weddle/My%20FFR/DSCF5747Small.jpg
Then the cap will be level and the highest point. Not my engine bay BTW...
The other thing to double check is your fan direction. I've seen lots of these fans wired backwards and they blow towards the rad instead of pull air through it. Not a major issue standing still, but going down the road the air coming in cancels out the fan, causing dead air and no cooling. How is the fan wired? Temp switch, manual switch, etc?
Mark
Those are great suggestions and remarks. You are certainly an awesome resource on this forum. Thank you. and Thanks to everyone who helps and answers questions.
I will double check the fan direction, and see what I can do about making sure the cap is at the apex of things. I will also "burp" the radiator.
Do you have an overflow tank that will allow fluid/air to purge from the cap into it.....and then refull the system from the bottom?
Also, what's going on with the radiator itself. You can either put a higher pressure cap on it and plug the overflow or fully plug it. You can't really leave the overflow open or it'll suck air in. I've got a T and run both the radiator and in line overflow lines into the overflow tank. 16# on the in line and 22# (mercedes) on the radiator. I have had no issues in 10 years on the road.
I do, in fact that is where the pressure releases and the anti freeze comes spilling out. I will update you guys on the suggestions. Thanks again
Someday I Suppose
06-13-2011, 09:14 AM
Rome, my guess is air in the system.
When it is 'over heating' how hot are you reading on the temp gauge? What happens a lot with these cars is that you have air in the system which allows the coolant to boil, which creates pressure and the purge of fluid. That's my bet!
-Scott
Rome, my guess is air in the system.
When it is 'over heating' how hot are you reading on the temp gauge? What happens a lot with these cars is that you have air in the system which allows the coolant to boil, which creates pressure and the purge of fluid. That's my bet!
-Scott
That sound like a good theory. I am guessing burping the radiator should fix that. I have done so. Will let you know if the overheating continues.
oh and btw, the fan blows in the proper direction.
RoyBoy
06-14-2011, 03:26 PM
I have the same motor only difference is MKIV complete kit. To Prevent cooling issues I agree with the previous post about highest point I also added shroud kit and the reservoir that came with the complete kit was 23oz and was too small for the 351 I replace with a 35oz and all cooling issues are gone
patpur
06-14-2011, 04:33 PM
I had a similar issue a few Saturday's ago. I got zero documentation with my car when I bought it so I am figuring out stuff as I go. I was in Rockville, not far from Rome and got stuck a more than a few lights. The temp crept up almost into the red zone. A lot higher than usual which is at the halfway point on the gauge. Since then I've run with the fan on all the time when its hot out and it stays cool, no problem, below the halfway mark.
efnfast
06-14-2011, 11:59 PM
- level the remote fill neck
- burp the radiator
- make certain you check the tightness of the clamps - usually they need to be tightened several heat cycles before they're fully seated (don't use a screwdriver - use a nut driver + socket to really get them to clamp down .... this won't fix your problem, but it's always good to remember to re-tighten them a few cycles or bad things might happen down the road)
BigLeo69
06-15-2011, 09:06 AM
maybe adjust to a 185* t-stat make sure she isn't sticking i have a temp sensor on the block side and the radiator side u can actually see engine temp go up and watch the other gauge move when the t-stat opens
and check the radiator cap, mine failed
do you have a bypass hose?
and as others said air in the system as you have the filler neck at a bad location, i like to raise the front of the car and i open the petcock on the top of the radiator driverside stick a hose on it and make it higher than the radiator filler. and let it sit overnight.
WAYNES WORLD
06-15-2011, 11:13 AM
Hello Rome,
I'm in Carroll County MD not far from Baltimore. Did you get the overheating issue figured out?
Wayne
Thanks guys,
Unfortunately I have not had the chance to run her lately.
I did burp the radiator, and it took a LOT more anti freeze than I thought it would.
Hopefully that will do it.
I will certainly keep you guys up to date if it happens again.
hey Wayne, Carrol County,... we are not too far from each other. I look forward to meeting everyone in this area. Hopefully we will meet someday soon.
Any events coming up in the area?
Someday I Suppose
06-16-2011, 07:46 AM
Rome, when you run it again keep an eye on the temps for us. If it took a lot of antifreeze then that is likely what was causing it to boil over.
Scott
will do. but it's a tricky thing as it didn't always overheat. I will find an excuse to drive it and keep a close eye. will update...
turbonut48
06-16-2011, 03:40 PM
I d blame it on the Cobra air cleaner lid being on backwards. What do I know???
The Nut
I d blame it on the Cobra air cleaner lid being on backwards. What do I know???
The Nut
ooops,.. youre right. how could I have missed that. Will fix that right away.
wait, now I remember, that's an old picture.
anyway,.. I drove her around today, for the first time since "burping" her,.. stayed just bellow 90. No problems so far. will let you know if that changes.
I have to say though, man is it fun to drive these babies around. I have a 351W in it with 400 hp and she sounds so sweet.
Thank you Dave for allowing me to have such a long time dream come true.
patpur
06-17-2011, 06:26 PM
Every Sunday Morning there is a huge Cruise In at Burtonsville, Md at the NE corner of the intersection of Rt 198 and old Coumbia Rd. (Old Rt 29). It gets going around 8:30 am and runs until 11 or so. 150+ cars on a good Sunday, quite a few Cobras and Ford GT's, tons of other cars. One of the best free cars shows you will ever go to. There is a drive thru Starbucks and a fast food place in the lot.
Bigguy
06-17-2011, 07:09 PM
Rome, my reply is somewhat different from the others and is an issue that I need to address but not one that keeps me from driving. When I built my Mrk II I ditched the donor radiator and bought a replacement from Autozone. The one they sold me would not seal. With a 15# cap on it fluid would just run out the overflow. I replaced the cap and the problem continued. I took the radiator back and they gave me a new one, same problem. I took it back and the said it was my problem. I put a 20# cap on and the problem went away, at least until last year about this time. Now after a number of years on the road the problem has jumped up to bite me on the butt. I now need to either replace the cap, which has lost some of its seal or replace the radiator because the throat is a few thousands too tall. I am going to replace my radiator with a FF5 radiator that doesn't have a cap on it and can handle 400 hp. I don't know what you received with your kit as I have not kept up, but this may give you some direction. Try a 20# cap (I got mine from a Carquest). If the issue goes away then you should be good for a year or two. If not try my route.
thanks Bigguy, I will keep that in mind. So far so good, but you never know if it's fixed permanently or not. I have the MK III complete kit with the no cap radiator (as you can see in the pic). Hopefully I won't have anymore issues with overheating. Good luck with yours.
Every Sunday Morning there is a huge Cruise In at Burtonsville, Md at the NE corner of the intersection of Rt 198 and old Coumbia Rd. (Old Rt 29). It gets going around 8:30 am and runs until 11 or so. 150+ cars on a good Sunday, quite a few Cobras and Ford GT's, tons of other cars. One of the best free cars shows you will ever go to. There is a drive thru Starbucks and a fast food place in the lot.
Sounds pretty awesome. You can bet I will be coming to a few of these.
CraigS
06-18-2011, 07:33 AM
Your pic doesn't show,and I don't remember what type overflow tank you have but that could be an issue. I have this one
http://www.breezeautomotive.com/details.php?prod_id=462&cat_id=17
Notice it's a 2 quart capacity.Mine is about 1/3 full cold and 2/3 full warm. Once you install the rad cap on the T-filler in the hose, all additional coolant should be added at the over flow tank only.Drive it til warm and then let it cool.When fully cold if the level is below 1/4 full add some to get it to 1/4 to 1/3 full.Drive again, etc. HTH
thanks CraigS keeping a close eye on it. so far so good.