Quick, Talk some sense into me!

[turbomacncheese]

https://www.copart.com/lot/34480666/
Cons: looks like it was being abused on a dirt hill when it rolled, probably needs the engine rebuilt.
Pros: most of the important parts look pretty straight, probably could get this to my door for about $1000, which leaves me some room to pick up some of the stuff that might be un-salvageable. Plus it's a pure sale, so done is done.

In other news, I won a bid on an 05 legacy gt for $450 (damage listed as "mechanical" implies impending engine rebuild), waited the weekend for approval, and within an hour of me checking for approval, saw the car was relisted for auction tomorrow starting at $450. Sounds fishy to me.

[carrera1984]

I wished I had paid more for a running car... but there was nothing available in Illinois. I never sold anything off mine. Parts I didn't need were either damaged or already sold before I got the remainder of the car. I did get almost everything from the car I needed though minus trans. This looks worse then mine. Looks like suspension and hubs are okay but you'll want to get new rear suspension, I'm sure anyways. Steering wheel, wiring harness seat belts probably okay. For 1,000 I May, but there's gotta be better out there. You won't recoupe anything from this you don't need. :(

[turbomacncheese]

I thought suspension was part of the 818 kit? I certainly wouldn't go higher than $1000, and most of that is shipping and fees(!). Most of the cars on there right now are going for 2500+(except the ones where the seller rejects the winning bid), so unless the trend changes I should expect 5000, including the budget for a stock engine rebuild. I'm not in a hurry, though.

[carrera1984]

The rear trailing arm is crusty stamped steel and doesn't accommodate wider tires well. It also twists pretty easy in side collisions, so you need to check for straightness. The only suspension included in the kit is the upper linkage in the front. You use the wrx arm in the front for the bottom, the 06 wrx has aluminum arms which is nicer! Take your time to find the right donor. Stock motor is more then enough to have fun. If your planning on upping the hp with a rebuild anyways, you'll want a beefyer trans down the line too... a bunch of failures you can read up about on here. Trans arnt cheap.

[billjr212]

Only the sedan had the aluminum control arms, so won't get them off this one. The regular ones are fine though. There was someone else who sold off a substantial amount on a rolled car, so the parts are there even at $1,000 that this would be "free" pretty easily.

[turbomacncheese]

Bill, you aren't talking me out of this!!! ha ha!
Carrera, thanks for clarifying the suspension for me. I don't intend to build the motor out for high hp. My 86 dodge hatchback was a 12 second car and handled like the steel box it was, so I know what that feels like. Stock engine should be plenty to the 818 there with better handling, so I'll be happy.

[longislandwrx]

car has aftermarket exhaust rally wheels and dirt tires. signs of a hard life.

this thing has probably spent a fair amount of time being thrashed around the desert.

[turbomacncheese]

Right. Looks like it was being thrashed when it rolled. What else would likely be unusable, though?

[longislandwrx]

hard to tell its life from the pictures. did you check the Carfax and see how long ago it was sold to the last owner? That might give you an idea about how long its been getting beat up.

could have:
bent suspension pieces from being jumped and hitting rocks, maybe just from the rollover. most asphalt rollovers have suspension damage. maybe this one got lucky and rolled on a soft desert pillow.
dried out bushings.
sand/dirt in the engine/clutch assy/knuckles/calipers
dried out bellows/cv joints
sand in the bellows/cv joints if the boots are shot
pretty much sand everywhere.

most likely it's fine, but I wouldn't pay too much.

[tmoretta]

If the engine continued to run after the car rolled it could have bearing damage due to oil starvation.

[turbomacncheese]

I would expect the engine to be toast. I agree, that it isn't worth paying very much at all, and my guess is that nobody else would, either. I just watched two legacy GTs go for 2500 (would cost me over $4200 to get them here, and with 180,000+ miles on them, I would still want to rebuild the engine). I'm trying to get a sense for how many parts I could replace new with the difference. Parts that maybe I wouldn't bother replacing if they were just a LITTLE bit nicer.

I know a lot of guys want to get their cars together and run, and I can't wait to drive I promise. But most of this is for me to have a project. So tearing into a few extra pieces to refurb them is a bonus for me. Thanks for weighing in guys. You're helping to keep me sane.

[turbomacncheese]

Would you guys be concerned about a copart listing that didn't show the engine? I suppose it's possible a front end wreck broke some things that prevent them from lifting the hood, and I know they are supposed to mark cars as "stripped" when it is missing something significant (like an engine), but all the same...I want to pass. Fair, or overreacting?

[longislandwrx]

I don't know enough about copart to know what sends up a red flag.

keep this is mind though as far as pricing.

I paid $500 for 4 knuckles/brakes/steering column/pedal box/ebrake assy/axles/master and slave cyls/steering wheel/all suspension pieces/bolts/brackets/fuel pump/cluster/wiper assy/fuse panels etc etc, I sold the wiper assy and rear diff and a few other things for about $100
I paid $200 for an sti steering rack and solid link
I paid $200 for an sti rad/fans/overflow tank

so for around $800 I got everything I needed to build the car minus engine/trans/harness (could have saved some cash using WRX parts)

all rust free Oregon parts already disassembled. just something to think about while bidding.

[Hindsight]

I bought a rollover. Surprisingly it started right up, ran, and drove. Had one bent tie rod. Both rear trailing arms were bent (which is common with any wrecked auction car because they lift them with fork lifts), and I felt like I should replace all four wheel bearings so I did. Aside from that, all other parts needed for the kit were usable, but I did miss out on getting money by selling a number of things that would have been in good shape on a car that hadn't been rolled.... namely bumpers, lights, and body panels.

[RM1SepEx]

I paid 1850 for an 05 roll over with 70,000 miles, sold just over 2100 in parts and could squeeze out a few 100 more tho I gave some away in exchange for goodwill with subaru friends. My rolled over engine developed a slight rod knock noise and I opted for a new shortblock etc... many parts you won't want to use and you want to rebuild almost everything else. I think you could obtain the needed parts for less than $10 grand getting all new or rebuilt. There are so many variables, no wrong way to go! Check my build thread even with all the street CF pieces a new shortblock, quaife, upholstered interior, many of Craig's sweet upgraded hinges and louvers I have only $20K into my S

[turbomacncheese]

Longislandwrx, you rock. If I can find all the odd parts for $1000, like you did, that leaves me a lot more room in my budget for rebuilding a car, so I would really only need to donor for a rebuildable engine, harness, and trans. That means that maybe a rollover isn't such a bad deal anyway.
Hindsight, I wouldn't buy this rollover unless it was cheap enough to make me not feel bad about "losing out" on the sales, so thank you for bringing that up
RM1, I've seen parts of your thread recently, but I'll go back and read it from beginning to end as soon as I catch up on my homework.

Thanks guys!

[turbomacncheese]

I found vehiclehistory.com. Claims the car was first junked (!) a few years ago at around 50,000 miles, went to Minnesota (not sure if rebuilt or what), and had 81000 miles at the last update. The odometer shows 111,000. Still doesn't mean much, if I could get a rebuildable engine and harness out of it for cheap cheap, but there are probably better deals for what I'll have to pay on shipping.

[turbomacncheese]

Figured I'd just keep bumping this thread instead of cluttering up the forum with stupid questions. When I'm looking at the donor spreadsheet, I see legacy/outback. These are two different cars, right? Or is there actually an outback trim level for the legacy?

[Shawn818c]

Figured I'd just keep bumping this thread instead of cluttering up the forum with stupid questions. When I'm looking at the donor spreadsheet, I see legacy/outback. These are two different cars, right? Or is there actually an outback trim level for the legacy?

They were 2 different vehicles, the outback had a taller ride height but engine/trans/wiring should be similar.

[turbomacncheese]

Thanks.

[turbomacncheese]

Man, all of a sudden the turbo subarus with manual transmissions just dried up near me.

[Shawn818c]

be patient, the winter season is coming!

[turbomacncheese]

Took me a second, but you got me to laugh!!

[turbomacncheese]

61580
Is it just me or does the wheel look crooked? What probably broke here? Interestingly, the primary damage is "hail".

[redfogo]

61580
Is it just me or does the wheel look crooked? What probably broke here? Interestingly, the primary damage is "hail".

That's some wild hail!. If it looks good on the bottom I would buy it though!

[turbomacncheese]

Auction site, out of state, so I'll have to take a gamble on it. My guess is that anything that's broken I can probably replace for not-too-much money, and the rest of the car is in decent enough shape to boost the part-out. It's a pure sale, so if the crazy people aren't online when it goes to the block, I might get a good enough deal to make it worth the risk. Low-miles, though, so hard to say.

[AZPete]

Tony, it looks better than the flood car you posted a while ago. :) You said out of AZ but not from the rust belt, eh?

[turbomacncheese]

Colorado.

[longislandwrx]

looks like just a broken wheel (and obviously no tire) causing it to sit like that, It could be damaged strut/knuckle/axle/brakes/control arm/tierod/ either way not too bad.

MAYBE (unlikely) oil pan damage from pancaking it like a low rider.

[turbomacncheese]

Wouldn't have thought about the oil pan. Shouldn't be hard to get one of those either, if the price is right for the car. Thanks!

[Shawn818c]

hope you get it. Nothing that would scare me away

[tmoretta]

I you find you need it - I have a near new STI pan and Moroso oil pickup I could sell you. PM me if interested.

[turbomacncheese]

Thanks. Didn't win. Being a cheapskate until maybe week after next, when things get serious around here and I can clean up the garage. I'll park in the driveway if I win a great deal, but if it is going to be average, I'll save space until I can start wrenching.

[Shawn818c]

what did that one go for?

[turbomacncheese]

I'm not sure. I proxy bid to 1500 and had to work during the auction. I've seen similar go for 2200 to 3000, not counting fees and shipping.

[turbomacncheese]

Well, I finished my last semester. 37 years old, finally got a bachelor of science degree in math, with a 3.98 GPA. So now I have to get serious about a donor. I started with the garage. Pretty good progress with all the kids' stuff. This is where the wife parks, but she's going to switch with me since my hyundai is shorter than the minivan, and I'll have more room in the tandem part of the garage.61909

BUT the tandem part is going to take some work. Since I haven't been out there doing anything since early summer, it's kinda collected a bunch of....stuff.
61910

But the weekend is coming, and I'm motivated.

[turbomacncheese]

Hey, does this look like it's pushed in enough for the timing gear damage I've been warned against?

61923

[frankc5r]

Hey, does this look like it's pushed in enough for the timing gear damage I've been warned against?

61923

I am not an expert but it looks ok to me.. Can u look and see if any scrape marks on cover or any indication that cover has been hit??

[turbomacncheese]

Its in a different state. Insurance auction. Thanks.

[Shawn818c]

Not too bad, looks like the radiator even survived!

[turbomacncheese]

I've been trying to gauge how far the fronts got pushed in by looking at the radiator hoses. This one is a little unique in that it was corner damage. It looks a little too high to hit the timing gears, but the bumper is scraped up right there, too. I'd think the bumper would have to have cracked or broken if it ever went in that far, but I wanted to check. I'll probably bid on this one. Thanks!!

[wleehendrick]

Well, I finished my last semester. 37 years old, finally got a bachelor of science degree in math, with a 3.98 GPA.

Congrats!


This is where the wife parks, but she's going to switch with me since my hyundai is shorter than the minivan, and I'll have more room in the tandem part of the garage.

BUT the tandem part is going to take some work. Since I haven't been out there doing anything since early summer, it's kinda collected a bunch of....stuff.

That could be sort a tight workspace. Speaking from experience, also building in a tight space, I'd recommend having a dolly so you can back your daily driver out, and wheel the donor/kit forward to give you more more to work on it.

[turbomacncheese]

Congrats!

Thanks!



That could be sort a tight workspace. Speaking from experience, also building in a tight space, I'd recommend having a dolly so you can back your daily driver out, and wheel the donor/kit forward to give you more more to work on it.

Kind of a crappy picture. The side I'll be working on is the tandem side. I can fit the minivan and my hyundai over there, front to back, with room to walk around and between them. I do plan on using a dolly though, and parking my sled outside during work hours. Should be enough room to store whatever I'm working on between the two of them overnight. Got another auction bid working tomorrow. Hopefully this will turn into my donor thread soon!

[AZPete]

3.98 I'm very impressed! Good luck on the next auction bid.

[turbomacncheese]

Won it!! 2006 Saab 92x linear, 2.5 turbo. Gotta set up shipping and see what I get. WooHoo!!!!

[AZPete]

The perfect Christmas gift! Or, is it your graduation gift? Either way, you are starting the new year with a 2005 2.5 turbo (the perfect donor, I think) and you'll be able to sell off parts to make it even less expensive, or free. Congrats!

[Brett33]

Hey macncheese, i thought the aero was the only turbo model?
in 2006 was the linear turbo too?

[Hindsight]

Congrats!

[turbomacncheese]

Too jazzed to type straight. It's the aero model, 2.5 turbo. Can't wait to get it in here and see what all is broken.

[Shawn818c]

Awesome!! Can't wait to see some pics. What was the winning bid?

[turbomacncheese]

825 :) I was really hopeful that the WRX was suffering from high prices because of fanboi-ism (I lost about a dozen auctions at over $2000, several went back up for auction because they didn't meet the reserve). After fees and shipping, I expect to be out less than I would have spent for the winning bid on a WRX/Legacy. Once I get my deposit back from my broker, I'll write up my experience. I've seen a lot of questions about the auction process, and I still had a ton of questions.

[turbomacncheese]

62255

My new 220 outlet. Larger compressor and a welder should make this job a little more fun!

[Hindsight]

I did the same thing. Didn't have a welder or air compressor until starting this project. Now have two 220 outlets, one for each. Probably spent as much in tools and lights on this project as I did on the car itself. It's been nice, but I have already outgrown all the large tool cabinets I bought.

[turbomacncheese]

Sweet. We were getting a little close on the panel capacity, so I had to make a choice. I have wire in the wall that will support 30 amps if I want to step up later, but I think I can make do with 20 so the box and breaker were a lot cheaper.

Right now I'm running two portable 8 gallon pumps. The second serves as a reservoir to cut down cycling unless I need more volume. Then I have to run a big fat extension cord to an outlet on a separate circuit. The biggest influence here was that all the 120V welders I can find are either very under powered or stupid expensive. This will open up my options a little.

Spent ALL Saturday in the garage trying to get it cleaned up. Decided to hire a trash guy to come get stuff so I don't have to rotate it out to the curb a little at a time over the next few months.

[turbomacncheese]

62395623966239762398

Well, it's finally here. Exciting day for me!! The giant oil drain pan in the back suggests regular oil changes, and a sticker under the hood says it got a new Gates timing belt about 30,000 miles ago. Alternator, AC Compressor, and Radiator look really clean, so they may be relatively new as well. Bonus: kind of a nice sirius radio, too. However, the STI floormats and shift knob, rear strut bar, racing pedals, and wheel rash suggest it wasn't driven nicely. Also an old radiator cap (new one on the radiator), antifreeze, and power steering fluid suggest it wasn't in the greatest running shape. Also, looks like the timing cover did, in fact, get smacked and is cracked. Clutch pedal feels pretty stiff for a factory car...is that normal or upgrade? Not sure if it's relevant, but the pedal stops about a half inch from the carpet. I can push it all the way down but it definitely feels like a half-inch up is the normal stop.

I had hoped to jump it and see if it would run before ripping it out. Part of me figures any damage done to the engine is already done and I've got nothing to lose. The other part thinks maybe it isn't worth the hassle. Any downside to pulling the Radiator/condenser so I can get to the plastic cover, make sure it turns over by hand, and then trying to fire it up without the radiator installed? Somewhere between 30 seconds and a minute would satisfy me. It would be nice to take it up and down the street to check that the transmission works, but that would only tell me about R,1 and 2. Is there a better way to turn the motor over by hand? Is it overkill at this point?

[turbomacncheese]

Bad news. I pried that cover back, and it looks like the timing belt is shredded. Guess the heads will come off before anything else happens.

[turbomacncheese]

Not enough room to even pull the radiator fans out. Gotta pull the whole apart, it looks like.

[Shawn818c]

timing belt is completely severed? or just torn?

I would take off the front bumper cover, cut the upper radiator core support with a sawzall. take off the timing covers and check the timing, a friend of mine had one that jumped a tooth or two with no internal damage

[turbomacncheese]

The part I can see is split down the middle lengthwise, looks pretty loose.

[turbomacncheese]

Just read a couple of threads (and watched a youtube video) of ej25s that had broken timing belts and suffered 0 catastrophic damage. I'm going to proceed with pulling the front of the car off, then if everything rotates, I'll attempt to build a leakdown tester. A bent valve should be pretty obvious at that point. Wish me luck!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Just read a couple of threads (and watched a youtube video) of ej25s that had broken timing belts and suffered 0 catastrophic damage. I'm going to proceed with pulling the front of the car off, then if everything rotates, I'll attempt to build a leakdown tester. A bent valve should be pretty obvious at that point. Wish me luck!
Bent valve gave me the opportunity to teach Michael how to do a valve job in a $600 copart car. We suspected bad valve before we bid.
Leak down tester at harbor freight is $44.99 (remember you get what you pay for)

62515

62514

[STiPWRD]

You might want to try replacing the timing belt and doing a compression test before you pull the motor. It's easier to crank the motor when it's still in the car. My timing belt in the wrx got shredded a few years ago because I failed to replace the timing pulleys (at 140k miles). One of them seized up, which caused the timing belt to rip and destroy one of the plastic cam pulleys. When I took the heads off, some of the valves were definitely bent. The HF compression tester worked well.

[turbomacncheese]

I definitely want to do this before I pull the motor, but I don't wanna buy a belt before I know I need the rebuild. If the leakdown test is promising, I'm sure somebody here will give me a junk timing belt for the cost of shipping. Just need to get out there.

[turbomacncheese]

Bent valve gave me the opportunity to teach Michael how to do a valve job in a $600 copart car. We suspected bad valve before we bid.
Leak down tester at harbor freight is $44.99 (remember you get what you pay for)

62515

62514

Absolutely love this.

[STiPWRD]

I definitely want to do this before I pull the motor, but I don't wanna buy a belt before I know I need the rebuild. If the leakdown test is promising, I'm sure somebody here will give me a junk timing belt for the cost of shipping. Just need to get out there.
If your belt was shredded then won't you need a new belt eventually anyways?

Also, why do a leakdown test? I would think a compression test would tell you what you really need to know and the results could be compared to factory specs.

[phil1734]

Pretty sure I have a timing belt I could send you, but they're only about $40 new, and much harder to replace once they're used since the marks have worn off.

It'd be very easy to be off a tooth and not notice it right away putting on a used one.

[turbomacncheese]

If your belt was shredded then won't you need a new belt eventually anyways?

Also, why do a leakdown test? I would think a compression test would tell you what you really need to know and the results could be compared to factory specs.

Yeah I will, but I'm trying to put it off until the complete rebuild. I'd like to get it registered with a running engine before building a new one. I prefer to start breaking engines in on the first warmup, which I'd like to make the first start. As for the leakdown test, primarily because I can do it without fixing the timing belt at all. It might be a pain to get the right valves shut at the right time, but we'll see. On top of that, a compression test will only tell me if the compression is good, bad, or zero. A leakdown will tell me if there is a bent valve, a hole in a piston, or both. Plus, I've been putting off the leakdown tester...and I really should have one in my toolbox. This gives me a reason.

QUOTE=phil1734;263072]Pretty sure I have a timing belt I could send you, but they're only about $40 new, and much harder to replace once they're used since the marks have worn off.

It'd be very easy to be off a tooth and not notice it right away putting on a used one.[/QUOTE]

That's a good point. I forgot that these engines use that mark, and that it's important because of the length. I'll revisit this after I learn some more. Here comes the weekend!!

[turbomacncheese]

Confirmed leaky intake valves. Probably bent. Pulled the seats and radio, put the radio in my daily driver. Kinda nice. Certainly better than the one I had.

[AZPete]

. . . , put the radio in my daily driver.
That's one positive already! I can't get much done this weekend because I have my fingers crossed for you. ;)

[turbomacncheese]

62760
Do I need any of this junk from the headlight or can I sell it complete? Also, any idea where to find the plug for the passenger side wires on the hatch? Also, the door strikers...all four look the same...are they? I managed to get one screw out of 3 of them, and no screws out of the fourth. Stopped dead, and broke my screwdriver tip (cheap replaceable ones). Any suggestions there? I'm ok with grinding them off, but replacement screws might be scarce at this rate...

[phil1734]

Attachment isn't working for me.

The Phillips head striker bolts are locktite'd in so hit them with a blow torch before you try to pull them. They are all the same so you only need two.

[fastzrex]

My donor had a 133K mile engine and was fortunate not to have front end damage although most of the left side was hurt with both air bags deployed.

The leak down check showed some low compression but no valve leaks; spraying oil into the cylinders brought the leak down for all cylinders above 85% (71/80) which is pretty good but definitely shows the mileage on the engine. The sparkplugs looked very good (Iridium) with the appropriate color on the porcelain. I have the same feeling as you as I want to have the 818 driving before launching a big rebuild. The last item I want to look at and will do this week is to check valve clearances to make sure there are no tight valve(s).


Yeah I will, but I'm trying to put it off until the complete rebuild. I'd like to get it registered with a running engine before building a new one. I prefer to start breaking engines in on the first warmup, which I'd like to make the first start. As for the leakdown test, primarily because I can do it without fixing the timing belt at all. It might be a pain to get the right valves shut at the right time, but we'll see. On top of that, a compression test will only tell me if the compression is good, bad, or zero. A leakdown will tell me if there is a bent valve, a hole in a piston, or both. Plus, I've been putting off the leakdown tester...and I really should have one in my toolbox. This gives me a reason.

QUOTE=phil1734;263072]Pretty sure I have a timing belt I could send you, but they're only about $40 new, and much harder to replace once they're used since the marks have worn off.

It'd be very easy to be off a tooth and not notice it right away putting on a used one.

That's a good point. I forgot that these engines use that mark, and that it's important because of the length. I'll revisit this after I learn some more. Here comes the weekend!![/QUOTE]

[turbomacncheese]

Attachment isn't working for me.

The Phillips head striker bolts are locktite'd in so hit them with a blow torch before you try to pull them. They are all the same so you only need two.

Fixed the picture, and thanks, I'll try a torch.

[turbomacncheese]

Well, after heating those things a little, I was able to turn them out by hand. Absurd, but I have new respect for locktite. Took out the dashboard today, and disassembled the doors down to shells. Hopefully I can sell that junk locally. So far, I've sold the rear seats, floormats, and passenger seat. Counting spare change in the carpet, I've recouped $162.11 so far. I think I could have got a lot more for the seats, but they take up a lot of room in the garage. Cash in hand is better than parts in the way.

Also realized it has a kartboy short shifter to go along with the adjustable cobb rear sway bar and lightweight cobb crank pulley. STI pitch-stop mount on top of the transmission, so maybe there will be some other goodies, too.

[turbomacncheese]

Also, the disassembly manual says to set the console piece with the shift boot aside. From reading builds, it seems as though I don't need it. Can I sell this?

[turbomacncheese]

Found what looks like a matching cobb sway bar up front today, but couldn't find the part that says "Cobb". I'll be able to see better once I get it apart. Also found an STI muffler, a bit banged up. Probably doesn't have much value, and it's surprisingly heavy! STI springs on all four corners. Lots of bent parts underneath. I think some of this stuff I'm trying to sell is just getting in my way and slowing me down.

[turbomacncheese]

63985

Sweet Lord, no wonder people pay for this...

[turbomacncheese]

6423764238

I'd just like to make a shout-out to.....my air tools. Impact wrenches and air hammers, FTW!!!

In other news, my cheap, Chinese engine lift came with cheap, Chinese bolts. Wouldn't be a big deal except that I put two of the wheels in the wrong places so I had to relocate them. I guess those were single-use bolts :(
$10 at Ace got me fixed up. Good thing it was on sale, even from the Chinese import discount. Still $30 cheaper than I budgeted.

So at that rate, I figure this bucket....
64239
...might be worth as much as $600, lol!!

And what the heck is this thing? Charcoal can? It was connected to the gas filler tube (visible) and the fuel tank.

64240

[phil1734]

Yes, that's the charcoal canister and other evaporative emissions b.s.

If you need to meet emissions in your state you'll probably want to keep it. Otherwise most on here delete it or replace it with a smaller, simpler unit.

[turbomacncheese]

Thanks. I might look into something more reasonable because I want to be eco friendly with as many miles as I'm going to drive this.

[Shawn818c]

did you ever get the engine running? Also, how is the part-out progressing?

[turbomacncheese]

I did the leakdown and discovered a bent valve on the first cylinder I tested (front driver side, not sure of the numbering scheme yet) so I quit there.

The part out has netted me $197.95 in seats, floormats, and gasoline (yes, I drained the tank and used it). I still have a bunch of parts, but no joy. I lowered the price on some of the stuff last night, but the smaller things not getting in the way deserve a little more patience from me. I'm really surprised nobody wants the rear strut bar, but I'll probably have better luck when I move it to ebay.

Frankly, I'm surprised to have not gotten any traction on some of this stuff at NASIOC, but I'll bet my super low post count has something to do with that. Either way, at the price I paid for the wreck I'm still in pretty good shape, overall.

[Shawn818c]

try saab92x.com. apparently, that rear hatch is a hard to find item. Also, the front drivers side is cylinder #2 driver rear #4 pass front #1 and pass rear #3.

[turbomacncheese]

Thanks for the heads up. My harness got stuck in the hatch, so I kinda wrecked it, lol. But the glass is still good!!

[turbomacncheese]

Actually got some stuff sold on the saab forum!! Not getting rich, but helping me stay on budget.

Disassembled all the brakes and they look good, just dirty, so rebuilding them should be CHEAP = good.

Started in on the engine today and got the intake/tgvs off. The intake valves don't look visibly bent, but I hooked up my air hose and only the #1 cylinder is tight. All the rest leak a bit. Forgot to verify that the valves were shut on #1 and it blew a bunch of black crud at me, so the inside isn't in great shape either. Probably ready for a rebuild whether it bent valves or not.

[turbomacncheese]

6565965660

This was the first cylinder I tested with my homebrew leakdown. Funny enough, I could hear the intake valves leaking, but it's the exhaust valves that got marked by the piston.

Pretty clear to see which valves got smacked. And if you look closely at the pistons, you can see those valve reliefs are the cleanest part of any of the pistons. Also a ton of carbon buildup in the intake ports, probably from the leaky valves. I can't believe this engine was possibly running well when the car got wrecked. So I guess it's just as well to tear it down now.

Here are some pictures of the others.
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[Sector]

Carbon buildup is normal with these engines.

[turbomacncheese]

I'll take your word for it because this is my first boxer engine. But I promise you I was SHOCKED.

[turbomacncheese]

Work picked up (how many times have I read that here?) but I finally got around to dropping my heads off at the shop. I was just going to have it surfaced and get the valves/seats cut, but there isn't much of a price difference for them to reassemble it and set the lash, too. So, I'll move on and let them do it. Upside, the guy says he has a valve or two he can pop in since one valve is definitely bent and another one might be. Cool guy, and he has considered building an 818. Hopefully it won't take me 3 years to finish and I can stop back by to show off :)

[Shawn818c]

cool! Can't wait to see it back in one piece

[Sgt.Gator]

I would never let a machine shop set the valve lash unless they are one of a very few Subaru high performance shops. Even then I'd do it myself. A lesson learned many times on the NASIOC and Legacy Forums.

Almost all standard machine shops don't use the Subaru FSM procedure. They will not use the correct buckets. They don't stock them and it takes too long to mess around with them. So their answer is to cut the tops off the valves to get the correct clearance. We have also seen shops that use a reference guide for determining the clearance that is wrong, it is not the same clearance as in the Subaru FSM. You can debate whether "tipping" the valves is bad for them or not. Some people say it's fine, many others are adamant that it ruins the valve in the long run and accelerates wear on the bucket. If you're interested in that debate you can search nasioc, iwsti,or legacy gt forums and see lots more info. I don't know for sure one way or the other. There is no debate that tipping procedure is not the way Subaru does it. Personally I like knowing the valves are exactly as manufactured, so I would never let a shop cut them down.

Also you can be 99% sure that if they are cutting the valve tops that they didn't measure each bucket to see if it is still within spec. Buckets have worn thru and failed. It's a miserable failure when that happens. Cobb no longer re-uses old buckets at all after one very expensive failure they had to cover. If you take your engine to Cobb for a rebuild you get all new buckets.

In the least each old bucket must be measured and documented to be in spec. Then use a permanent pen to mark the "new" thickness on the bucket. If they are used you can be positive they are no longer as thick as the mark inside the bucket says it was when new. Never go by the mark inside the bucket for used buckets, and I even check brand new ones. Although I've never had a new one measure different than Subaru's mark, I still check.

Finally it is documented many times that heads that set their valve clearance on a bench almost always are out of the correct valve clearance when they are torqued down to the block, even if the shop has used swapped/bought new buckets. Some folks claim that you even have to measure after the timing belt is installed.

Note that in the Subaru FSM procedure the heads are on the block and the timing belt is installed. You adjust the valve lash by using the correct thickness bucket for each valve. If your shop is cutting the valve stem I can almost guarantee that when you get everything bolted back together and do your own valve lash measurements 9 out of 10 valves will not be within Subaru spec.

You might want to drop by the shop and ask them what procedure they are using to set your valve clearance. If it's the "tip" the valve method I would tell them you'll just do it yourself.

[turbomacncheese]

Not exactly a race shop, but they have a Subaru guy. I disassembled, cleaned, and inspected the heads, and I'll do the same when I get them back. I already talked to the guy about the service, and they will tip the valves. I'm comfortable with that. I still hadn't decided whether I was going to cut the buckets(not exactly comfortable with that, and relieved that I don't have to make that decision) or build something to tip the valves myself.

I'm not building a 9000 RPM 500hp engine. This is a stock rebuild, and I haven't even convinced myself to look for the bigger injectors and turn up the boost. If the engine can't take a regular rebuild at stock levels, then it's garbage to begin with.

Thanks for the heads up (so to speak) on torquing down the heads and re-checking the lash. I'll be sure to post my experience when I get that far. Might be a while, though. Apparently the only semi-local shop that machines Subaru blocks has a 2 month lead time.

[Shawn818c]

You really can't blame Subaru for the engine skipping timing and bending a valve due to a front end collision, they aren't garbage but the stock tuning leaves a lot to be desired. These engines really respond well to a uppipe, downpipe and a tune with some head room left on the stock fueling. I think that would be ample for most in the 818 but I think the goal should be to get it running first.

[turbomacncheese]

Don't take me wrong. I'm not saying the engine is garbage because it broke. I'm saying if Subaru designed an engine that can't be rebuilt without using brand new parts for everything except the block and head castings (like many at NASIOC insist) THAT makes it garbage. I believe it will be just fine for what I'm doing or I wouldn't spend a dime on it.

[turbomacncheese]

Been a while since I updated. Got my heads back from the shop. Still have to verify the work, but they sure do LOOK good! Update with some blasted/painted parts.
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[phil1734]

Uh... Unless you have some sort of voodoo lowering kit or something your rear lateral links are muy ****arito.

Both those links in your first picture are supposed to be dead-nuts straight.

[turbomacncheese]

All four? Bad news then. I meant to look it up at one point, and just...forgot. Somewhere along the line I just started thinking Subaru did that because the bend was so SMOOTH. Guess I'll be looking for some new ones. And hey, why replace when I can upgrade?

Seriously though, I know diddley squat about suspensions. It's my only real concern about this build. Thanks for the heads up.

[phil1734]

Yeah, all four should be straight. You're far from the first on here to get a donor with bent ones. It typically happens when the guy at co-part (or wherever) picks up the donor with a fork lift.

If it's any consolation yours are probably 2 or 3 times more bent than any others I've ever seen.

[turbomacncheese]

Which makes it all the more embarrassing that I cleaned them, painted them, and posted PICTURES as proof....
I guess we can tell where I'm going to have the most build questions, eh? I mean, my body-work is weak, but not THAT weak.

[fastzrex]

All four? Bad news then. I meant to look it up at one point, and just...forgot. Somewhere along the line I just started thinking Subaru did that because the bend was so SMOOTH. Guess I'll be looking for some new ones. And hey, why replace when I can upgrade?

Seriously though, I know diddley squat about suspensions. It's my only real concern about this build. Thanks for the heads up.

I had two bent for sure, but replaced all four just in case.

[DSR-3]

Mine too were toast...
I see the price has increased since I bought mine, but I think these are still a good deal;
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-45K0189-Professional-Adjustable-Assembly/dp/B0010DPDU8

[turbomacncheese]

I straightened them out on my press just for giggles and grins. Can't believe how easy they bent. I'm not planning on using them, because it seems like they'd bend EXTRA easy next time around. I won't be doing any racing (I think) but with as soft as they are to begin with...jeepers. I'm going to check in on some part out threads on NASIOC. Plus, seems like a few people over there are upgrading to adjustable bits, so maybe I'll score a deal.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I went with the tubes and rod ends.
68981

The 818r-supplemental-instructions from FFR has a parts list and instructions.
Bob

[turbomacncheese]

Bob, I don't think I understand what you're getting at. I have some sort of gap between my bent links and the supplemental instructions. What am I missing?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Bob, I don't think I understand what you're getting at. I have some sort of gap between my bent links and the supplemental instructions. What am I missing?

Turbo
I had bent links also.
Instead of sourcing new lateral links I just went with Swag tubes and rod ends.
The "R" supplement manual has a list of parts and the procedure you need to do. Page 12 thru 16.
Bob

[flynntuna]

I went with the tubes and rod ends.
68981

The 818r-supplemental-instructions from FFR has a parts list and instructions.
Bob

Bob when and why did you switch from the FFR lateral links?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Bob when and why did you switch from the FFR lateral links?
FFR supplied 2 adjustable lateral links per kit. I used all four on my first car as you show in the picture you posted.
I went with the swag tube on the second car in summer of 2014. They are also much lighter.
Bob

[turbomacncheese]

So SWAG tube = DIY lateral are those instructions ONLY included in the R manual? I'm planning a C...any reason I might not want to use them?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

So SWAG tube = DIY lateral are those instructions ONLY included in the R manual? I'm planning a C...any reason I might not want to use them?

You have to drill a bunch of holes out to 5/8" including the long bolt in the knuckle, spindle, upright.
Bob
69021

here is a picture of one of FFR cars.
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[flynntuna]

From what I have seen in the R suppmental using these lateral links eliminates the need for the cam bolts and washerst that the S manual calls for, right?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

From what I have seen in the R suppmental using these lateral links eliminates the need for the cam bolts and washerst that the S manual calls for, right?
Correct, No Cam Bolts.
Also, it is much easier to make small adjustment to track width for tire clearance.
Bob

[turbomacncheese]

I looked up swage tubes on Summit Racing. Found what looks like all the other pieces in that picture. Looks like I can put together a DIY kit about $40 a piece, not counting shipping. Sound right to you?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I looked up swage tubes on Summit Racing. Found what looks like all the other pieces in that picture. Looks like I can put together a DIY kit about $40 a piece, not counting shipping. Sound right to you?
Sorry, my mind is blank when it comes to what everything cost.
Bob

[flynntuna]

I looked up swage tubes on Summit Racing. Found what looks like all the other pieces in that picture. Looks like I can put together a DIY kit about $40 a piece, not counting shipping. Sound right to you?

From what I saw at summit, it looked like $204-284 for the Rod ends and swag tubes. Not counting delivery, tax or bolts and washers. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fkb-jmx10t/recommendedparts

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/afc-36182/recommendedparts

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Sorry, my mind is blank when it comes to what everything cost.
Bob

Found my summit invoice:
Bob
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69150&d=1497818353

[flynntuna]

Thanks Bob for the list, I see the swag link tubes you have listed are 13" . The R manual calls for 12".
Did you use them at 13" or did you need to cut them down?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Thanks Bob for the list, I see the swag link tubes you have listed are 13" . The R manual calls for 12".
Did you use them at 13" or did you need to cut them down?
I used 13"

[turbomacncheese]

Thanks Bob!

[flynntuna]

Bob, how did using the "R" mounting points for the lateral links having a negative affect your alignment ? Don't the lateral links have to be level to avoid " squirrelly " handling ?

[flynntuna]

Well with a little digging I found the answer...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18965-818-handling