Steve's MK IV Coyote Build

[Straversi]

Just what you need, another build thread by a novice.

After a couple of years of research I finally decided how I wanted to build my Cobra and pulled the trigger.
Mk IV Complete #8901
Coyote
TKO600
IRS
FFR Power Steering
Sway bars
Hydraulic clutch
Wilwoods
18"FFR Halibrands
Stainless pipes & DS roll bar
Stainless bumpers
Kirkey low backs

More than likely, blue with white stripes. I love the various combinations of silvers and black but every time I go to a show, I come back with 200 pictures of blue and white Cobras.

I took auto shop in high school, back when schools offered shop classes. That should tell you something. My brother and I built, auto crossed, crashed and rebuilt Datsun 510's on shoestring budgets but that was a long, long time ago. This will be a huge step for me. Well outside my comfort zone.

Why a FFR roadster?
The Cobra is just so damn cool. Timeless. My tastes have changed over the years but the Cobra has always tugged at me.

I met the FFR guys at SEMA a couple of years ago. They let me know that tall guys had modified roadsters to fit. That was the bait.
I went to the Huntington Beach show and sat in Dave's modified MK 3. I was hooked.
I met a bunch of great people and they answered my questions, let me take notes and photos and were all very encouraging. After that I could not get the idea out of my head.

So for the next year I read the forum and took notes and tried to determine what I wanted and what I was capable of doing. This forum is FFR's greatest selling tool. This community is unbelievably helpful. Not so with other project forums that I have explored.

I've wanted a project for a while but I don't weld and I'm no longer fond of rust or junk yards (misguided youth) so that eliminated some muscle car ideas I've had. I have a restored 64 Cadillac convertible but restoration projects are more about sending things out to be done by others. I also wanted something I could do primarily by myself. Removing the door of a 64 Cad is a 3-man job.

So the stars started to align and my wife was on board so the order went in in May.

I've been making good progress, just delinquent on starting a thread.

My first boss at McDonnell Douglas told all of us young engineers, "Don't be too proud to copy good ideas. Proven designs don't kill pilots."
So if you see me stealing your ideas, it is with that sound engineering principle in mind. I will try to credit those from whom I borrow but I've read so many threads I might have forgotten where the ideas originated. He also told us "that you can't fix a problem unless you know exactly why it failed and that still doesn't guaranty that your fix won't cause greater problems". So with that in mind, if you see me jumping off the tracks and reinventing something, please feel free to intervene. Please!

I'm having a blast. My wife is still talking to me. I haven't screwed anything up past the point of repair. What more could a guy want?

I'll add more soon. I think I have the photos figured out.

-Steve

[GoDadGo]

Steve,

1. Look at the Factory Five assembly videos a few times.
2. Get the manual and read it two or three times, then read it a 4th time just for fun.
3. Determine if you feel like you need to go the Factory Five Build School if you aren't sure about your skills after you completed steps #1 and #2.
4. Do an assessment of your work space, tools on hand and be honest with yourself about your abilities.
5. Make a spreadsheet for the parts you will need to purchase.
6. Get your garage in order and order your kit.
7. Do a very detailed inventory when your kit arrives, literally a piece by piece process, to make sure that you have everything you need.
8. Don't hesitate to ask folks on this forum and the folks at Factory Five Racing for help.
9. Enjoy The Process & Try To Complete One System At A Time So That You Don't Skip Anything!

Good luck & welcome to the family!

Steve >> aka: GoDadGo

[1932]

Always need new builds! Have fun and post pics.

[wareaglescott]

Have fun! I have pretty much the same build as you do. I will look forward to following your progress. I don't think anyone could be more of a novice than me and everything is working out pretty well so far. The forum is an amazing resource. Everyone is so helpful. I have decided no question is to stupid to ask and that has been a successful strategy! haha
I've definitely learned some lessons along the way and tried to include them in my build thread. The most recent being that if you haven't bought a good jack yet then get yourself a low profile one. I recently figured out when I was putting the tires on the concrete for the first time that the 4.5" ride height was not going to work to well with my nice expensive jack that was 6" tall at its lowest point. Now I have 2 nice expensive jacks!!

[Straversi]

I struggled with the decision between traditional push rod SBF and the Coyote. When I decided on the Coyote, I ordered the engine and the rest of the drive train from Mike Forte at the same time I ordered the kit. No second guessing or going back. The engine arrived from Ford Racing very quickly so I was only able to sit and stare at an empty garage and a lonely Coyote.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59549&d=1476121453

They say "nature abhors a vacuum". Same can be said for an empty garage. Every time I turned around there would be new bags and boxes sitting in my future build space. Felt like I was defending turf. Think my wife saw it as a way for me to help get her closet organized.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59548&d=1476121453

I guess I could just drop it in the Caddie

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72481&d=1503028302

[Straversi]

FFR was on schedule for the finished kit and Stewart was pretty accurate with their delivery date.
Their scheduled delivery date conflicted with something we had planed so the driver juggled the order of his deliveries and it all worked out.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72496&d=1503081678

Our neighborhood has steep hills and low branches so the driver left his rig at the bottom of the neighborhood and we transferred the boxes into our truck (3 or 4 trips) and then finally lowered the chassis on to a dolly kart.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72494&d=1503081659

We towed the kart at a nice 3 mph parade pace. Alerted the neighbors that I had a fun project underway.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72495&d=1503081669

The Stewart driver and my son worked their tails off managing the kart through the hills. He said he had handled tougher deliveries but he eared his pay on this one.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72493&d=1503081649

-Steve

[Straversi]

59566

Parts inventoried. Everything checked out with my back order parts list other than a few nuts and bolts and quite honestly, they are probably in here. I read the manual before my kit arrived. Good advice from the forum, but it's a little like reading menu in a foreign language. Fist pass through is confusing but when you see the items and have them in your hands, the manual starts to make a whole lot more sense. Same with the inventory list. I've read where some people took all of the hardware out of the individual bags. Cant imagine doing that. Keep everything bagged.

Body buck built, elevated and on wheels. Most of the parts stored on dollies under the body. I'm able to store some of the boxes I won't need for a while like seats, wheels, carpets and windshield at my office so that makes things a bit easier.

59565

After inventory and a scheduled vacation, the first parts went on the car about a month after delivery. Proud moment. Lasted about 5 minutes before I realized I had made a few mistakes. The upper control arm was assembled incorrectly by FFR. Scratched my head and read a re-read instructions and looked at forum photos until I realized the mistake was not mine, but of course it was a Friday night and I didn't want to wait until Monday to get an answer so just kept plugging along. Good and bad in this frustrating start. Frustrated that an assembly was shipped out wrong but also happy to know that I could figure it out myself with the available resourced and keep moving.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72497&d=1503082446

Decided at some point to follow EdwardB's lead and replace the upper ball joints. Don't know it its necessary but I was ordering some paint from Summit so why not add them in the cart.
I had to grind down the spacers a little on the lower shock mounts. At first I thought it was just the powder coat but I sanded that down and it was still too tight so made an adjustment on the grinding wheel. It takes a while to understand that these kits are well built but they do not go together to aircraft tolerances. Some adjustments need to be made. So far, every time I've run into an issue I've been able to look to the forum and see that several others have come across similar if not exact issues and the solutions are common sense. My I-pad is always close at hand.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72500&d=1503082472

I didn't join the Wilwood wall clock club but I did manage to ricochet a bolt off the frame and into an open drain (now taped over). Of course you have to buy 12 of the bolts from Wilwood for $58 so if anyone finds themselves in the same need of ONE Willwood bolt, I can help 11 of you. Bought the safety wire plyers and wire. Love the internet and the fact that a dozen individuals have taken the time to make a "how to safety wire bolts" video. I'm sure this is just what Al Gore had in mind when he invented the internet.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72501&d=1503082483

I bought the FFR power steering rack. Everything went together smoothly. No need to trim anything per the instructions, it was already done. I realized I put the steering link arms on upside down when I tried to connect the steering rack ends. Didn't notice the slight taper. I think this was the 3rd or 4th time I had taken the assembly apart but I'm definitely getting into a rhythm and gaining confidence. The front sway bar also went together smoothly. I think WareagleScott shows a picture of the carbide tipped sawzall blade "for thick metal" he used to cut down the male and female rod ends. I came to the same conclusion after I had smoothed out a few standard "metal" blades. The carbide blades take a healthy bite and the blade wants to jump so get a groove started with a hand file and the blade will settle in.

[AC Bill]

They say "nature abhors a vacuum". Same can be said for an empty garage. Every time I turned around there would be new bags and boxes sitting in my future build space. Felt like I was defending turf. Think my wife saw it as a way for me to help get her closet organized.

So far, every time I've run into an issue I've been able to look to the forum and see that several others have come across similar if not exact issues and the solutions are common sense.

Good grief! Are all wife's like that? I have a three car garage, and I just barely have room to park the roadster. I have a older Malibu that is parked out in the weather, (but with an outdoor car cover), that I have desperately wanted to get in the garage to finish the restoration. but there's no room thanks to boxes and bags, of her junk.

This and the FFCars forum, have always been a better go to place, than the manual.

Does anyone find it odd that those same issues continue to plague builders? Perhaps if corrections are not done from the get go, at least the proven solutions to them could be included in the manuals foot notes.:o

[Jazzman]

Just what you need, another build thread by a novice.

My first boss at McDonnell Douglas told all of us young engineers, "Don't be too proud to copy good ideas. Proven designs don't kill pilots."
So if you see me stealing your ideas, it is with that sound engineering principle in mind. I will try to credit those from whom I borrow but I've read so many threads I might have forgotten where the ideas originated.
-Steve

Welcome Steve!

How else are us novices supposed to learn than through the tutelage of experts! Good on you for jumping into this crazy pool! And don't feel even half bad about stealing ideas. I am proud to say I have stolen ideas from the best of them. This community is very giving, more than willing to help you through any predicament. Just ask. The experts are out there, and they will be more than happy to jump in and set you straight.

I am glad you are putting up your thread. We all learn from each other.

[Straversi]

Got all of the pieces prepared for the IRS.
Major pucker factor involved in cutting the ends off of the aluminum knuckles, but that turned out to be easier than I expected. Just had to work up the nerve to hack into something that looked pretty expensive.

Did not expect "chasing out the holes to 5/8" in the pumpkin to be such a PITA. I did it in steps with two bit sizes but I should have bought a drill motor with a larger chuck. Bent a few $20 drill bits before it was all said and done.

Zip tied some carpet on to my floor jack and was able to jack/rotate/jack/push/rotate and push it right into place with the help of my son. He kept saying, "just let me get under it and push it into place". Ahh, to be a 20 year old D1 water polo player. He has the strength but I was able to convince him that we should just go ahead and use the floor jack. Tight but it went in pretty smooth. I had made some tapered pins per EdwardB's instruction. Nice.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72504&d=1503082935

I had more difficulty with the upper control arms. Even with the PC sanded out, the brackets were too tight. Little manipulating with a crescent wrench and it all came together. I thought I was missing two bolts for the UCA's but turned out I had the new longer ones but had not received the update on the two additional bushings and longer bolts. Another forum save.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72507&d=1503083519

Rear sway bar assembly was easy except there is a small and a large spacer in the final attachment. I was not able to install them per the instructions. Had to flip them around. Either my sway bar is a little wider than the one in the instructions or the car's unweighted geometry is a little different. The instructions were for adding it to a fully built car. Anyone have any experience with that? I zip tied a note to the sway bar to look at it again when the car is on the ground.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72505&d=1503082948

I added a cheap work bench from Harbor Freight so that I could move my drill press, heavy vice and sanding station outside. It is much easier to do all of the cutting, drilling and grinding outside and it wont be a problem in sunny So Cal. My wife will get a potting bench when I'm through. See how clever that one was.
And yes, that is a foosball/assembly table. Use what you got. Also makes for a good paint drying station as I painted a few pieces I'd later find out I don't need. More practice.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72503&d=1503082925

Next up was the peddle box. I called FFR to see if the frame mods was necessary. They said no because the clutch would engage before the peddle hit. I put it together and immediately took it apart and did the EdwardB frame mod. I could see what FFR was saying but I plan to get the max leg room possible so it was definately going to be necessary for me.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72502&d=1503082912

-Steve

[GoDadGo]

You Are Off To A Fine Start!
Congratulations!

[wareaglescott]

59566
Parts inventoried. Everything checked out with my back order parts list other than a few nuts and bolts and quite honestly, they are probably in here. I read the manual before my kit arrived. Good advice from the forum, but it's a little like reading menu in a foreign language. Fist pass through is confusing but when you see the items and have them in your hands, the manual starts to make a whole lot more sense. Same with the inventory list. I've read where some people took all of the hardware out of the individual bags. Cant imagine doing that. Keep everything bagged.

Body buck built, elevated and on wheels. Most of the parts stored on dollies under the body. I'm able to store some of the boxes I won't need for a while like seats, wheels, carpets and windshield at my office so that makes things a bit easier.

59565

After inventory and a scheduled vacation, the first parts went on the car about a month after delivery. Proud moment. Lasted about 5 minutes before I realized I had made a few mistakes. The upper control arm was assembled incorrectly by FFR. Scratched my head and read a re-read instructions and looked at forum photos until I realized the mistake was not mine, but of course it was a Friday night and I didn't want to wait until Monday to get an answer so just kept plugging along. Good and bad in this frustrating start. Frustrated that an assembly was shipped out wrong but also happy to know that I could figure it out myself with the available resourced and keep moving.

59564
Decided at some point to follow EdwardB's lead and replace the upper ball joints. Don't know it its necessary but I was ordering some paint from Summit so why not add them in the cart.
I had to grind down the spacers a little on the lower shock mounts. At first I thought it was just the powder coat but I sanded that down and it was still too tight so made an adjustment on the grinding wheel. It takes a while to understand that these kits are well built but they do not go together to aircraft tolerances. Some adjustments need to be made. So far, every time I've run into an issue I've been able to look to the forum and see that several others have come across similar if not exact issues and the solutions are common sense. My I-pad is always close at hand.

59563
I didn't join the Wilwood wall clock club but I did manage to ricochet a bolt off the frame and into an open drain (now taped over). Of course you have to buy 12 of the bolts from Wilwood for $58 so if anyone finds themselves in the same need of ONE Willwood bolt, I can help 11 of you. Bought the safety wire plyers and wire. Love the internet and the fact that a dozen individuals have taken the time to make a "how to safety wire bolts" video. I'm sure this is just what Al Gore had in mind when he invented the internet.

59562
I bought the FFR power steering rack. Everything went together smoothly. No need to trim anything per the instructions, it was already done. I realized I put the steering link arms on upside down when I tried to connect the steering rack ends. Didn't notice the slight taper. I think this was the 3rd or 4th time I had taken the assembly apart but I'm definitely getting into a rhythm and gaining confidence. The front sway bar also went together smoothly. I think WareagleScott shows a picture of the carbide tipped sawzall blade "for thick metal" he used to cut down the male and female rod ends. I came to the same conclusion after I had smoothed out a few standard "metal" blades. The carbide blades take a healthy bite and the blade wants to jump so get a groove started with a hand file and the blade will settle in.


Nice work Steve. I'm zooming in on the picture on an iPhone and can't see with great resolution and it may just be a shadow but take a look at the line on your power steering rack that terminates at the front middle. It took 3 racks from FFR before I got one that the line was not kinked badly at that sharp bend. Hopefully yours is good but I just wanted to give you a heads up because I had such an issue getting a straight one!

Also you mentioned storing the carpet box at another location. A good tip I read was to take the carpet out of the box and laying it out flat so the creases work themselves out by the time you install. May be worth considering. Enjoy the build!

[Straversi]

Nice work Steve. I'm zooming in on the picture on an iPhone and can't see with great resolution and it may just be a shadow but take a look at the line on your power steering rack that terminates at the front middle. It took 3 racks from FFR before I got one that the line was not kinked badly at that sharp bend. Hopefully yours is good but I just wanted to give you a heads up because I had such an issue getting a straight one!

Also you mentioned storing the carpet box at another location. A good tip I read was to take the carpet out of the box and laying it out flat so the creases work themselves out by the time you install. May be worth considering. Enjoy the build!

Thanks. I checked the lines. Tight bends for sure with a slight deformation but not kinked. I looked back at your photos as a reference and mine are OK. Good tip on the carpets. Thanks

[Straversi]

Have not posted in a while but lots going on. I drilled and cleco'd in most of my panels. Man, that's a lot of holes.

As I got to the back panel of the cockpit I found some misalignment. The rear panel did not line up evenly. The seat belt holes and the rear trunk cross bar showed me that one side was higher than the other. Easy to fix but I was not sure which side was correct and since there is no bulb seal between this panel and the body I needed to get it right. I found enough photos in various threads so I had a good idea of what was correct but I waited until I could call FFR for a reference measurement. They were able to measure a partially built unit in R&D and confirm. I cut off the bottom flange and made a small angle to recreate the connection and get the height correct.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72490&d=1503080589

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72492&d=1503080903

We come into our house through the garage so managing shavings is critical for matrimonial bliss. I notched the tip of my shop vac and I hold it right up against the bit as I drill. Catches 95% of the shavings.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72491&d=1503080603

-Steve

[Straversi]

During my 1/2 price option ordering frenzy, I ordered the new padded dash with glove box. There is a video link for this option imbedded in the order form now. Not sure if it was there when I ordered but if it was I skipped it. The dash was one of the last items on my back order list so I was eager to see it when it arrived. Hmmm. Not what I expected. I ordered it because I liked the shape of the new glove box. I didn't realize that it came pre-padded, hence the name. Never was very good at Clue type games as a kid.

It is a very nice dash. They did a great job with the vinyl application. One of my big concerns with my car is that I have seen so many cars with saggy or overly padded dashes (for my taste). Just one of my OCD hot buttons. This vinyl application is tightly applied and trimmed.

My issues are that the dash is plastic. Feels a little flimsy but I did not install it. When it is installed I bet it is fine.
The holes for the gauges are drilled (expected). The holes for the ignition, headlight and another switch are also drilled (unexpected). I did not plan on using those standard locations. Since the dash is pre padded you can't cover the holes.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60340&d=1478012693

The glove box door is also plastic and the steel hinges are to be glued on. I can't see that working, but again, I did not build it. I'd probably fasten the hinges onto an aluminum door and then glue the plastic on to that but... I'll leave that for someone who has or is building it.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60342&d=1478012762

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60341&d=1478012720

In the end, I called FFR and they returned the money after I sent the dash back. Cost half the value to ship it back but I was pleased with FFR's response. I ended up ordering a blank dash and I'll go with the comp gauge arrangement.

I think if the headlight switch and ignition holes were not pre drilled I would have kept it and been perfectly happy. If you want the stock locations it is clean and a big time saver. Interested in hearing how the plastic holds up.

I'd love to hear from anyone who has assembled this dash.

[Straversi]

I installed the FFMetal recessed battery kit. I was planning this from the beginning and am very happy with it.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60343&d=1478013387

There was a small interference with the IRS pumpkin. I could see if one bend on the box was a fraction tighter there would be no interference so I imagine this was a one off. I was able to grind away the imposing sheet metal and we are good to go.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60347&d=1478015615

I was not planning on adding the trunk drop kit but changed my mind and ordered it from Russ Thompson. Very happy with this also.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60350&d=1478015666

Thankfully during the wait I read in EdwardB's and Wareagle's threads about the IRS vent. Thanks for the part numbers fellas. Ordered those from Tasca. Glad I didn't rivet the battery box in place before getting those parts...

I found a good use for my cheap shop stool. The hydraulic seat adjustment allows you to use it as a great gas tank jack. Easy to wheel it into place so the straps align and then slowly bump it up into place.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60344&d=1478013468

[wareaglescott]

Spectacular use of the stool! I wish I would have been that smart. I was balancing it on my floor jack which was a pain. Well done! Build is looking good.

[Straversi]

Spectacular use of the stool! I wish I would have been that smart. I was balancing it on my floor jack which was a pain. Well done! Build is looking good.

Yes, I used the floor jack as well. Seemed like overkill. When I dropped the tank to work on fuel lines I thought of the stool, only because I was too lazy to get my floor jack.
We used to have a plant manager who would say that he liked employees with a little "country lazy" in them. He said hard workers would kill themselves to knock out 10 widgets a day but go home and shut down whereas the lazy man will go home and think of ways to make the job easier and faster. Plant manager's skill was to teach the lazy man method to the hard worker and get 11 widgets a day.

[Straversi]

I hit a snag with the steering shaft. I was not able to attach the splined connection to the power steering rack. I had read that some had installed the foot box bushing on the inside of the foot box so I tried that but it was still not going to fit. I was concerned that the steering shaft was the wrong size so I sent measurements and photos to FFR Tech. Dan called me back and said that I had the correct parts and that I should take out the power steering rack bolts and push the rack down and it should go together fine. I hung up and tried that the next day. No dice. Called Dan back and told him that pushing the rack down made up some room but it was still not going to fit. Dan said I'd have to man-handle it a bit and then said "did you watch my video?" I said yes and I didn't see him wrestling the ps rack... Next day I greased up the bushings and rocked/fought the ps rack back until I was able to get the splined end on the rack. The shaft had a pre-load to it so I called my buddy Dan back and he confirmed that the shaft is supposed to have a pre-load in the event the bolts come loose, the shaft and rack won't separate. I only post this because I think that would have been information worthy of putting in the instructions, and no, it's not in the video.

Next snag: Bending fuel lines. I bent the brake lines and the 1/4" fuel return line with little difficulty so I was fooled into thinking I knew what I was doing. I tried to bend the larger fuel line and immediately got a flat spot at about 15 degrees. I backed off and started on the other end of the 60" piece of tubing. Added more lube to my bending tool. It is a pretty decent Craftsman tubing bender with a large radius. Flat spotted it again. Tried a little more and kinked it. I figured I had butchered this 60" piece and would have to order another so I used the remainder of it for practice. Never did get a decent bend without a kink or flat spot. My kit came with green Rhino Guard lines. Since the instructions all showed a silver line I figured there was a chance that this was a new vendor so I called FFR. I got Dan the Man back on the line and he said that they had been using the green lines for quite some time and had no problems and then asked "did you watch my video?" I laughed and said, yes you were bending tubing around socket heads and it was silver. I punted and bought stainless lines. To be attempted at another time. According to Dan, I'm the first who has had trouble with this tubing.

Reminded me of a good customer of mine who called in with problems and our warranty manager told him that he had never seen that problem before and that he was the first... The customer interrupted and said, "Every time I call in with a problem, I'm the first, This has never happened, You've never experienced this before..." Then he said, "You know, you only get to be a virgin one time." He reminds me of that call every time I see him.

Dan is a good guy and it must be terribly frustrating dealing with people over the phone who have a wide rage of abilities, but I doubt I'm the first who has struggled with steering shafts and fuel lines.

[wareaglescott]

I hit a snag with the steering shaft. I was not able to attach the splined connection to the power steering rack. I had read that some had installed the foot box bushing on the inside of the foot box so I tried that but it was still not going to fit. I was concerned that the steering shaft was the wrong size so I sent measurements and photos to FFR Tech. Dan called me back and said that I had the correct parts and that I should take out the power steering rack bolts and push the rack down and it should go together fine. I hung up and tried that the next day. No dice. Called Dan back and told him that pushing the rack down made up some room but it was still not going to fit. Dan said I'd have to man-handle it a bit and then said "did you watch my video?" I said yes and I didn't see him wrestling the ps rack... Next day I greased up the bushings and rocked/fought the ps rack back until I was able to get the splined end on the rack. The shaft had a pre-load to it so I called my buddy Dan back and he confirmed that the shaft is supposed to have a pre-load in the event the bolts come loose, the shaft and rack won't separate. I only post this because I think that would have been information worthy of putting in the instructions, and no, it's not in the video.

Next snag: Bending fuel lines. I bent the brake lines and the 1/4" fuel return line with little difficulty so I was fooled into thinking I knew what I was doing. I tried to bend the larger fuel line and immediately got a flat spot at about 15 degrees. I backed off and started on the other end of the 60" piece of tubing. Added more lube to my bending tool. It is a pretty decent Craftsman tubing bender with a large radius. Flat spotted it again. Tried a little more and kinked it. I figured I had butchered this 60" piece and would have to order another so I used the remainder of it for practice. Never did get a decent bend without a kink or flat spot. My kit came with green Rhino Guard lines. Since the instructions all showed a silver line I figured there was a chance that this was a new vendor so I called FFR. I got Dan the Man back on the line and he said that they had been using the green lines for quite some time and had no problems and then asked "did you watch my video?" I laughed and said, yes you were bending tubing around socket heads and it was silver. I punted and bought stainless lines. To be attempted at another time. According to Dan, I'm the first who has had trouble with this tubing.

Reminded me of a good customer of mine who called in with problems and our warranty manager told him that he had never seen that problem before and that he was the first... The customer interrupted and said, "Every time I call in with a problem, I'm the first, This has never happened, You've never experienced this before..." Then he said, "You know, you only get to be a virgin one time." He reminds me of that call every time I see him.

Dan is a good guy and it must be terribly frustrating dealing with people over the phone who have a wide rage of abilities, but I doubt I'm the first who has struggled with steering shafts and fuel lines.

Steve,
Just wanted to make sure you were aware you will have to disconnect the steering shaft to get the coyote installed so plan accordingly. It has to swing out towards the DS front wheel for the motor to fit. That is another item that would have been handy to know. I wish they would add stuff like that to the coyote fitment instruction supplement.

I butchered a green fuel line as well. Turned out one 60" piece and one shorter piece worked out to be the perfect length for me so I found a vendor that sold those and ordered the replacement in a shorter length and cut the butchered piece up to practice bends.

[Straversi]

Thanks,
I did pick up on that. I left everything loose. Also just mocked up the locations for the master cylinder reservoirs. I think most everything is in the mock up stage until that motor goes in. I appreciate the heads up.

[Straversi]

I'm 6'-6" with size 13 shoes. Not the tallest to build a MK4 but tall enough that there are some interesting challenges. I was forewarned that I'd have more room if I chose the SBF motor but I like that Coyote and I'm stubborn I guess.

I cut 1/2" off of the master cylinder threaded rods and that moved my brake and clutch pedals back 2". Thanks Dave!
"Back" will mean away from the driver and closer to the front of the car.

Next was to position the gas pedal or electronic throttle sensor as Ford calls it. I started with the EduardB mod to move it up. That worked well and I kept as much of the pedal arm in tact as possible.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61195&d=1479797835


Now to move the gas pedal back 2" or more, I was going to need to modify the steel arm or make my own. After several cardboard mock ups I thought I found a solution and made arms in aluminum. I was removing a bit more of the plastic Ford pedal arm with each iteration. The Ford part cost $110 so I figured if I ruined it it was not going to be a huge set back.

When I got the pedal where I wanted it I realized my foot was not making contact with the pedal face but more with the arm and right at the pivot point. Not a good feel and not very safe. This is a geometry exercise and it will be different for every leg length, shoe size and seat position. For me, as I increased leg room, the foot angle changed and my 13's land on the pedals like size 15's.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61196&d=1479797872

I took it all apart and looked at the 4" tube. There is a little more than 2" between the bottom of the foot box floor pan and the bottom of the 4" tube. I decided to modify my floor pan and take back 1" of that space. I had a piece of 12" wide x 3/16" aluminum plate so figured if I could shape a floor pan that was 1" lower. The thicker plate would make up for less ground clearance. I also figured that if I'm hitting the floor pan I've already bottomed out the frame and tore the side pipes off so heel strike would be the least of my problems at that point.

Bending 3/16" thick plate proved to be much harder than I thought. I quickly realized the the type of bend I could make would determine the shape of the floor and so Bend First, Design Later. After several attempts I laid the aluminum of the driveway, Placed a steel post driver on the plate, had my daughter drive the car on top of the handle of the post driver and then apply force with a big crowbar. Levers and pivots - Egyptian engineering - it worked for the pyramids.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60358&d=1478016775

Flipped the plate over and did it again and formed a crooked S. Now I have a curved floor pan that just dips where my heel rests. Not the original concept but I like it better that what I had first imagined.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60355&d=1478015741

Made some side pieces and cut the length so the deep part of the bed was positioned where my heel rested.

I attached this plate directly to the 2" curved tube and the square tube at the front of the floor pan with (8) 1/4-20 threaded inserts. It is every solid and curved so it should deflect anything minor.
Next I modified the original floor pan to fill in the gaps.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72487&d=1503078192

It is not perfect but it will be covered in Lizard skin and carpet or more probably just Lizard skin and rubber mat so I am happy with the finish.

The green line in the photo shows the original floor pan level. Perpendicular green line is the low spot that I aligned with a mark I put on the 4" tube when I figured out where my heel would rest.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61194&d=1479797818

I made a a couple more cardboard lever arms until I got the pedal angle correct so my foot made even contact. I made two aluminum brackets and sandwiched what remained of the plastic pedal arm. One aluminum arm was enough but the second helped me stabilize the pedal pad so it didn't rock. Lots of work to get the aluminum arms to sit correctly because they still had to be bent around the curve of the plastic pedal and then bend back to get the pedal pad aligned with the brake pedal.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61192&d=1479797764

I drilled the pedal pad with a countersink bit to make the pad match the brake and clutch pedals, sort of. You won't see the pedals but I had already put several weekends into this pedal project so why not make it look good.

I might trim off the bottom 1/2" of the pedal pad to get a little more room when sliding my foot from gas to brake but I'll await until I get the brakes bled and determine the brake pedal travel. Ideally I would like another 1/2" - 1" but that would require removing the steel bracket and mounting the pedal assembly directly to the steel face of the foot box. I looked at the Lokar pedal. It is narrower and mounts directly from behind which is great but the wiring connection is on the side so it is effectively just as wide as the Ford pedal. This will have to work for me. It is way more comfortable that what I started with.

I looked at some pedal arrangements in Porsches, MG's and other cars with tight foot boxes and they are all similar and all different. Bottom line is you have to train your feet a bit to hit the brake and not the gas. You can't just pound it like the daily driver.

[wareaglescott]

Wow very nice work on that floor mod. That is great.
I spent quite a bit of time mounting my kirkey seats. I have the high backs so may potentially need to move them some when the body goes on but I accounted for that. I think with your pedal set up and the kirkey low backs you will be quite pleased with the room you will have. I am not your height but at 6' 3" I have found the fit to be pretty good.

[Straversi]

It has been a while but I have been moving along with lots of small projects.
I like the look of the FFR reservoirs so I ordered a third. Mounted these to follow the slope of the 3/4" tube.

EDIT: I had problems with these reservoirs leaking so I replaced them later in the build with aftermarket reservoirs from Wilwood.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63066&d=1485104985

I was about to rivet a brake line clamp on the reservoir bracket but remembered that this reservoir assembly needs to swing out of the way before the Coyote drops in. Thanks Forum! I can un-bolt the bracket and get it out of the way as needed. the brake line clamps will all be on the frame, not my bracket.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63067&d=1485105603

[Straversi]

Next up was the reservoir supply hoses. I wanted to pass them through the hole intended for the clutch cable. Tight fit but broke out the old drafting tools to make sure I got the holes close enough together so the hoses would not rub on the steel pass through.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63068&d=1485105638

Had to flat spot the grommets on the disc sander to get them to nest a little closer.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63069&d=1485105656

Happy with the results of something that will be seen by no one.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63070&d=1485105671

[Straversi]

Time to run braided fuel lines. I mocked up my fuel lines with bent coat hangers. I took them to Earl's plumbing and they made my hoses while I waited. I thought they would laugh but they said they do it all the time.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63082&d=1485107888

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63081&d=1485107867

I used the kit brake lines with nothing unique to add other than O'Riley Auto Parts has a good selection of the same RhinoGuard brake lines to replace those that I mangled and others that they stocked in different lengths that came in handy.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63080&d=1485107842

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63079&d=1485107824

I did manage to run one of my rear brake lines directly under a spot where I needed to drill a hole for my battery ground. Had to take a little care drilling the hole but it worked out fine. Just a reminder of how one decision affects many more to come.

[Straversi]

Milestone event for me. I opened the Ron Francis wiring harness for the first time. I've been avoiding that box like the plague. Mechanical things make sense to me. Electricity it still a mystery. Once I got it out of the box and could put my hands on it, it was a little less intimidating. I installed the fuse panel with the extra brace per EdwardB.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63093&d=1485108791

Now that I have my rear harness installed I can actually start installing items like the battery drop box permanently.
I filled the rear end with the special oil and friction reducer. Another good forum tip about how much that stuff stinks. I had a good day to work on Christmas Eve but thought my wife might not appreciate it if I stunk up the garage and house with 20 people coming over. Good move to wait a few days.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63094&d=1485108804

FFR techs told me I didn't need to bother with the rear bumper attachment mods that so many have done because the gas tank is easy to drop. Now that I have the stainless lines and electrical in place, I can see that the tank can still be dropped but I would not call it easy. I went ahead and added the 7/16" couplings.

I installed my emergency brake lines per the kit instructions. I can definitely see the merit of the mods that take it over the 4" tube but I'm suffering from a bit of modification fatigue so I'm doing this one by the book. One of my cables slipped into the Wilwood emergency brake casting will a little lube and mild force. I had to remove the e-brake caliper on the other side in order to get the other cable in place. A little emery cloth, more lube and slightly more force an it popped in place.

Next up is the EdwardB's clutch switch bracket. All I can say is thanks and thanks again. Don't know what i would do if I was building this without the EdwardB build thread. I have it printed and in a binder.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63087&d=1485108481

Did I say thanks?

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63088&d=1485108496

[Straversi]

I was a little sloppy cutting my trunk box around the braces. Seems like so long ago.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63095&d=1485108843

I didn't want to fill gaps this large with silicon so I fabled up some aluminum band-aids.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63096&d=1485108856

Should be fine when I get them riveted in.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63097&d=1485108868

[Straversi]

Last post of the day. I'm installing the radiator shroud and the Breese upper and lower supports.
The shroud and the lower supports are easy and straight forward. The upper mount requires you to remove the two 4" x 3/4" tubes that are welded to the cross bar.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63089&d=1485108520

These small tubes are attached with 6 stitch welds. I have a new appreciation for the guy on the TV shows who walks up with a hand grinder and says "I'm going to clean up the bumper or cut a hole in the hood" and when they come back from commercial, he has it neatly done. I was grinding and cutting for quite a while to get these little tubes off without damaging the main cross tube. If I had to do it again I think I'd cut three sides of the tubes off and leave the top piece attached. The thin top piece of the tube would not make a difference. But, I thought of that after I had already committed to removing all of the welds.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63090&d=1485108540

Setting the 51 degree angle

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63092&d=1485108601

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63091&d=1485108566

[Straversi]

Time for an update. My wife had to go out of town so my brother came down for a weekend Cobra visit. He's a retired school teacher and now full time wood worker. I put him to work doing what wood workers do best, sanding and spraying (although the photo is of me).

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65000&d=1489420406

I've been planning to keep my body panels bare aluminum but there are plenty of scratches either from forming or my own poor handling. I experimented with different sanding and coating methods and decided to hand sand with a block, 220 grit and a guide board to keep the scratches uniform. I sprayed the panels with a clear coat called Alumaclear. We've been coating polished aluminum tank trailers (think Ice Road Truckers) with the product for a few years and my customers have been happy with it. We used to use Sharkhide on the tankers but it is very hard to apply on a 42' semitrailer. One of my vendors send me a free can of the Alumaclear so why not. I didn't get photos of the finished product because we had to get the panels done and inside to beat one of our So Cal rain storms.

I am very please with the end result. Next we siliconed and riveted on most of the body panels, keeping the DS footbox exposed. Sanding, spraying and riveting would have been a truly tedious job solo. Had a blast with my brother and it made the time fly.
-Steve

[Straversi]

Next, it was time to get that Coyote off the crate. I cut and drilled the lifting plates per EduardB. A while back, I moved my heavy vice outside and mounted it on my flimsy HF work bench. I reenforced the corner, but it was still pretty weak. Wish I would have videoed the next step. I needed to bend the steel plate so I put it in the vice, added some heat from a propane torch and started whaling away with a sledge hammer. It became clear pretty quick that the table might yield before the plate did. The table barely survived but I got my bend.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64995&d=1489420236

Borrowed a friend's hoist and the Coyote is finally free of the crate. On the engine stand to get the Moroso oil pan,
engine mounts, power steering pump and oil and water sensors installed. Removed the factory oil cooler as well. I had ordered the adapter from Tasca a while back.

Me on the hoist

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64999&d=1489420382

Bro behind the stand

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65001&d=1489420429

I send my brother home well fed and tired. We got a lot done and had a lot of laughs.
His garage is set up to build museum quality furniture so he doesn't want to build a Cobra but he's happy to come down and join the party.

-Steve

[Wes Brimhall]

Great to see the heart going in...Can you tell me about your decision process on the Coyote vs SBF? I am at the same point in my decisions and having a difficult time deciding. Just re-read your thread and wondering if you have any insights to help with my decision. Thanks for your time! Wes

[Straversi]

Great to see the heart going in...Can you tell me about your decision process on the Coyote vs SBF? I am at the same point in my decisions and having a difficult time deciding. Just re-read your thread and wondering if you have any insights to help with my decision. Thanks for your time! Wes


Man, I'm 8 months into this and I'm still torn. Kidding a little, but it just came down to a gut choice. I love the power, weight and modern technology of the Coyote but I still love the sound and simple rawness of the SBF. By the time I put EFI on the SBF and dressed it up with Cobra bling, it cost about the same or more than the Coyote. It wasn't a $ decision though. I think in the end I was a little afraid of the challenge the Coyote presented and that might have tipped the scale. Time will tell if that was foolish or not. I also told myself that if I ever build a 33 it will have old school power in it. You can not go wrong with either.

Good luck and have fun. I'm having a blast.

-Steve

[wareaglescott]

Steve Im not sure you understand that you are obligated to absolutely blow the budget on this project. Using free product that your vendor supplied hardly lives up to the established forum guidelines! haha

In all seriousness I am glad to see your progress. I notice in your picture of the engine hanging you have the intake removed. Are you going with a Boss intake or some other sort of change?

[Straversi]

Steve Im not sure you understand that you are obligated to absolutely blow the budget on this project. Using free product that your vendor supplied hardly lives up to the established forum guidelines! haha

In all seriousness I am glad to see your progress. I notice in your picture of the engine hanging you have the intake removed. Are you going with a Boss intake or some other sort of change?

Yes, I am going with a Boss style intake. That totally unnecessary investment should put me back on track with your budget expectations, yes?

-Steve

[GoDadGo]

Yes, I am going with a Boss style intake. That totally unnecessary investment should put me back on track with your budget expectations, yes?

-Steve

The Boss Manifold Is Totally Necessary!

They Look Cool & That's Enough To Justify The Expense!

Steve

[Wes Brimhall]

Steve- thanks for the reply! I enjoy seeing your posts pop up- very similar build to what I am planning.

[wareaglescott]

Ha! yes that should put you right on track. Carry on!
Look forward to seeing the motor in the engine bay. That Boss intake is sharp looking!

[Straversi]

With the Coyote free it was time for clutch and transmission. I bought all of my components from Mike Forte and he was very helpful walking me through the assembly. He promised me others had asked dumber questions but he didn't convince me.

I built a quick and dirty engine stand and mounted it on a dolly. I kept the engine connected to the hoist in case my crude stand gave way. My brother is the carpenter, not me.

Removed the flywheel, drove out the clutch locator pins, installed the new locator pins (after they spent the night in the freezer) and installed the clutch. Then realized the bell housing plate had to go on before the flywheel was reattached. More practice.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64997&d=1489420322

I put the transmission on another dolly and spaced it with cardboard until it was the proper height. Slid the two together with a little effort but no damage to the spine (my spine that is).

Mike helped me set the pivot bolt so the clutch fork was aligned properly. If you don't know what those are, buy your stuff from Mike and he'll explain it to you too. I've replaced a clutch or two over the years and I've swapped out one junk Datsun transmission for another junk yard transmission but I've always had a starting point as a reference. Never built something completely from new parts out of boxes. Without a starting point as a reference it is great to have guys like Mike and willing Forum members to offer help.

Mike walked me through the hydraulic clutch installation and push rod trimming. I'd read about that and was a little intimidated until I had the part in hand and Mike on the phone. Ah, not so difficult after all.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64996&d=1489420267

Lastly, added the Forte speedo plug as referenced in other threads.
She's ready to go.
-Steve

[Straversi]

My BF Goodrich G-Force Rival S tires arrived.


http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64998&d=1489420346

Wow, those 315/30ZR18's are a far cry from the the old Comp T/A's from way back when. I put this in the General Discussion so I'll be brief. Tires arrive with no stems. Local America's Tire man though the wheels needed a special stem.

Courtney set me a set (nothing special about them).

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64992&d=1489420137

Dan sent an email that said no special stems were needed, just use normal stems and give them a twist when half way through and they'd hold. Took my stems in and the America's Tire man was still nervous but I gave him Dan's email and he gave it a try. It worked, tires mounted and installed. So cool.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65036&d=1489461553

-Steve

[TomV]

Greta build thread, enjoyed reading it, thanks.

[Straversi]

Not sure if this photo shows the aluminum panel well enough but this is the brushed finish we sanded in. 220 grit with a hand block using a guide board. No matter how hard I tried to sand straight without a guide, there was always a noticeable curve. Very pleased with how it turned out. Trying to keep a racing look to it but didn't want tons of scratches. I probably gave this decision as much thought as anything on the build; natural, paint, powder coat, sharkhyde...

Cracked myself up the other day when I looked at some photos of cars at the HB Cruise-In with Coyotes. There is probably less than 25 square inches of panel visible inside the engine bay. But darn it, I'm sure happy with how that precious real estate is finished!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65039&d=1489461755

-Steve

[Straversi]

Starting to make the push to install the motor. First I needed to wire the engine bay. I'm following EduardB's schematic, other than I have the rear mount drop battery box so my battery cable will come up the transmission tunnel. I started to bring it up the passenger side but the driveline is offset to the passenger side so it looked a little tight. Plenty of room on the drivers side of the tunnel. I had already drilled the 2" hole in the firewall for the Coyote harness, fabbed the bracket to mount the PCM to the passenger side and mounted the Power Distribution Box on the 2" tube near my fuel distributor. Now I needed to peel back the harness and do some pruning.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65284&d=1489987500

Now we are getting serious. Had to set up a new work station to spread the wiring out to keep things in order.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64993&d=1489420161

I reached out to EdwardB Several times for clarification and he graciously offered help and referred me to his wiring schematics that I had somehow missed in his threads. I have been reading so many schematics and making notes and talking to myself that my wife finally asked "Is this going to be safe?" I guess I have not been projecting much confidence leafing through manuals and dragging a harness through the house.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65104&d=1489553804

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64994&d=1489420183

All buttoned up. I covered or replaced the plastic convolute tubing with Painless Performance Classic Braid. Just like the look. No practical reason.

Next stop, Coyote.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64991&d=1489420087

-Steve

[edwardb]

Looking good (and familiar!). That classic braid looks nice. Thought about using it a couple times but didn't. Maybe next time. For those red plastic caps on the master disconnect, I trimmed them enough to fit flat over the posts. Just enough around the back part to slip past the larger and added wires. Then put a blob of non-conductive electronic grade silicone sealant on the post to hold them in place. They would peel off pretty easily if ever necessary.

Good luck getting the Coyote in! Big next step.

[WIS89]

Steve-

She is looking great! I really like the brushed finish you are putting on your aluminum panels; they look terrific, and I think give it that race car finish you were seeking.

You are making great time with the build, and everything looks sharp.

Thanks for posting your progress!

Regards,

Steve

[Straversi]

Big weekend! I managed to get a day of my son's spring break and he and a friend of mine showed up Saturday around noon. I had been at it since 6:00 AM double checking everything. Car on wheel dollies, HF load leveler, strap and come-along for transmission, check. OK, time to get this big Coyote in its new home.

Combined experience installing motors: Big Fat Zero. Last time I installed a motor it was a Datsun 1800 and my brother and I just put the short block in by hand, no hoist necessary. This was a slightly different experience.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65286&d=1489987687

It took us about an hour and a half to slowly, and I mean slowly guide the Coyote in. Down a little, little more angle, move the car left, right forward...

It was great to have two extra sets of hands and eyes. Had a priceless experience with my son AND we managed to get the motor in place without losing any fingers or damaging the body panels. Whew!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65288&d=1489987729

Once we got the engine down enough that the passenger side motor mount was making contact I removed the DS engine mount and started to install the DS header.

I let my help depart and started the slow process of getting those header bolts in. I think it took me just as long to get the header in as it did to install the motor. Part of that time was modifying a tool though.

I cut 1/2" off of an 8mm allen wrench and slipped it into a ratcheting box end wrench. My new favorite tool. Allowed me to get to all of the header bolts and made quick work of the fine threads.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65289&d=1489987758

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65290&d=1489987780

One note: I installed the plastic oil sensor (removed from the stock pan) in the DS of the Moroso oil pan at the same time I was installing the header, with the engine still suspended but in place. I don't think you can get the oil pan between the mounts with the sensor installed and I don't think you can get the sensor in with the motor all the way in. Seemed like there was a sweet spot where it went in smoothly.

Header in, motor mount back on, engine settled nicely in the mounts so I mounted the transmission brace, added the 3/4" spacer and called it a day.

Thanks to all of the Forum tips and advice, we were able to get the engine in without interruption. No trips to ACE for missing bits and pieces.

Sunday I repositioned the car in the garage, put it back up on jack stands, installed the starter, ground strap, PS header and cleaned up. Then I had to fix a fountain, some landscape lights, reprogram some sprinklers and catch up on a long list of TO-DO's.

I had the car on the ground for a few minutes. Got to sit in it and make car noises. What a great weekend. Need to get to the office so I can rest. Man, I'm tired.

-Steve

[GoDadGo]

Those Tires Look Ready To Kick Some Asphalt!

[wareaglescott]

Congrats on getting the Coyote in! Huge step. Will be eagerly awaiting the first start video!

[Straversi]

Looking good (and familiar!). That classic braid looks nice. Thought about using it a couple times but didn't. Maybe next time. For those red plastic caps on the master disconnect, I trimmed them enough to fit flat over the posts. Just enough around the back part to slip past the larger and added wires. Then put a blob of non-conductive electronic grade silicone sealant on the post to hold them in place. They would peel off pretty easily if ever necessary.

Good luck getting the Coyote in! Big next step.

Thanks, and yes that should all look familiar. No penalty for plagiarism I was told. Thanks for the tip with the caps. I think I'm going to add two guarded toggle switches on either side of the battery disconnect, one for fuel pump cut off and one for flashers. Still not 100% sure but I added wiring for those before the motor went in, just in case. If I decide not to place them there it will be easier to cut out the wiring than to add in after the fact. I'll trim the red caps and add the dielectric grease when I get that all finalized.

I'm not going to use the Coyote engine cover so my wiring will be visible. I thought the classic braid would be worth while. With the Coyote cover it would all be hidden anyway.

You will surely see more familiar photos in this thread, but I promise not to paint her red and white.

-Steve

[FFinisher]

The Boss Manifold Is Totally Necessary!

They Look Cool & That's Enough To Justify The Expense!

Steve


Be very careful here, The old intake will not work with the 2015 and newer coyote. Make sure you are using 2015 and newer intake and throttle body.

[Straversi]

Be very careful here, The old intake will not work with the 2015 and newer coyote. Make sure you are using 2015 and newer intake and throttle body.

I'm in the research phase now. Not planning on the Boss but looking into an aftermarket intake. They do not support the Intake Manifold Runner Control feature (aware of the pros and cons there). A custom tune is required if you delete the IMRC but that is required anyway with headers, etc. Other than that, it is supposed to run with the -15 throttle body. Any info you have is appreciated. Like I said, still researching.

[edwardb]

I'm in the research phase now. Not planning on the Boss but looking into an aftermarket intake. They do not support the Intake Manifold Runner Control feature (aware of the pros and cons there). A custom tune is required if you delete the IMRC but that is required anyway with headers, etc. Other than that, it is supposed to run with the -15 throttle body. Any info you have is appreciated. Like I said, still researching.

I started to respond to the Boss intake on a 2015 Coyote before, but didn't. It's definitely a bit of a mixed bag. The IMRC difference you mention is one thing. That would have to be addressed with a custom tune. But then the Boss intake takes a custom tune anyway. On the previous version of the Coyote, the Boss intake took away some power at the lower RPM's but give a nice bump at the higher ones. The difference doesn't seem quite so much for the 2015 version due to the changes made to the base engine. There are several reviews out there for intake options for the 2015 Coyote. Check those out. The Boss intake does add some power for the 2015, but at very high RPM's. 7,000 and above. Not something you're going to see very often with street driving. Check this out. https://www.svtperformance.com/2014/12/29/tech-2015-mustang-boss-intake-test/

Bottom line for me, between the intake and the custom tuning it's a pretty expensive appearance item. Ford Performance has a couple other intake options for the newer Coyotes. You might want to look at those if it's pure power you're going after. But they aren't very pretty. Certainly not any better looking than the stock setup. Again IMO. And by the way, once we have this all figured out, it's changing again! The 2018 Coyote has yet another batch of changes. Ford hasn't officially provided many details, but it's clearly going to shake things up again.

[Straversi]

My kit has the latest and greatest FFR DS foot box panels for the Coyote. After I dropped the motor in however, I realized there was more room available. I'm 6'6" so the thought of available leg room going to waste haunted me.

If you want the max leg room available, follow the well documented King panel modifications. I'm sure they are better than mine and far easier to do prior to engine installation. Modifying the foot box after the engine is installed and after you have riveted most of the foot box together is not the recommended method, but it is possible.

First of all, in order to do this I had to remove the peddle assembly and all of the bits and pieces that have been added over the weeks. A bit of a bummer since I thought that area was assembled for the last time. Silver lining is that it will be easier to spray on the Lizard Skin with the peddles removed.

I thought I might notch out an area near the gas peddle and cut down the angle that transitions to the transmission tunnel.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65972&d=1491279100

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65973&d=1491279117

But once I got the Dremmel cut wheel going I just decided to remove the side and open it up with one smooth panel.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65974&d=1491279133

After a few attempts with cardboard and tape I figured out the panels I needed. You can see how the new panel crosses over the 4" frame tube. It doesn't look like a huge change but that area is exactly where my boney shin wants to rest.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65975&d=1491279192

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65976&d=1491279208

Transferred to aluminum

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65971&d=1491279086

Viola!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65977&d=1491279227

I'm very happy with the results. The engine completely hides the patched area and the carpet will take care of the rest. The leg room change is a serious improvement. It's not an upgrade to first class but it's definitely like getting the emergency exit row. Few things make a tall guy happier than improved leg room.

A friend of mine has an original 33 Ford Hot Rod which his wife less than affectionately calls "the worlds least comfortable $100K car." His advice to me has been to do whatever I can do to make my car as comfortable as possible.

Although I wish I had done this modification in the proper sequence, the time and effort were well worth it.

-Steve

[wareaglescott]

Nice work Steve

[Straversi]

I've been busy but have not updated in a while. Engine bay is mostly complete so time to get the Lizard Skin on and then interior wiring.

I ran through a couple rolls of painters tape getting the interior prepped. No quick way to do this, just get comfortable and start taping. I filled in some of the larger sheetmetal gaps with MarineTech epoxy.

I'm not sure what I'm doing with my transmission tunnel cover yet so I'm setting that aside. Need to save some Lizard Skin to spray that later.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72512&d=1503096678

Quick rough sand and a wipe down and time to fling the Lizard Skin around. Drop cloths, lots of drop cloths.

I put down a light coat and then built it up pretty thick.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72514&d=1503096697

I overdid it in some areas trying to get the nozzle in tight places. Dragged my hoses through freshly painted panels a couple of times but this stuff is pretty forgiving.

Note to Self: Hire a professional painter to put the color down on this car for sure! Lots of respect to those of you who paint your own too.

Between coats I learned that if you can just get a light coat down, you can go back with a cheap sponge brush and hand paint in anywhere your coverage was light or missed. Its hard to brush or roll the Lizard Skin on to raw aluminum but it sticks to itself well so if there is any kind of a mist layer down you can fill in by hand. This came in handy in the foot boxes and in the trunk.

Tighten up that respirator and wear eye protection. You get up close and personal with your spray gun trying to get up inside the PS footbox.

Two gallons of the sound deadening material down and this tub is as water tight as a duck's a&$.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72516&d=1503096717

I missed one of the larger gaps in the side trunk aluminum when I was filling with epoxy. I put some blue tape behind the panel and hand painted in several coats of the Lizard skin and it sealed up great. Don't know if it will hold up as well as the epoxy but then again I don't know if the epoxy will crack out either. It will all be covered in carpet so I guess we'll never know.

Couple more gallons of the heat shield material down and NASA can use this as a reentry vehicle. I used all of the air and nozzle settings from EdardB's description and as expected, it all worked well.

In the middle of my heat shield second coat on a Sunday night, my Harbor Freight air compressor crapped out. I couldn't find the receipt and couldn't remember if I bought the extended warranty. Usually I don't. Fortunately, in this case I did. Unfortunately, my two day job became a three weekend job because of other commitments. Having drop cloths taped everywhere was popular with the wife and removing the tape with everything set up hard was a bit of a chore but it all worked out.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72520&d=1503097648

Could my Wilwood peddle assembly really be installed for the final time? Knock on wood.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72515&d=1503096706

Takes on a completely new look with so much aluminum now dark gray.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72518&d=1503096975

This was a fun project. Messy and tiring but added a few new skills and had to solve a few problems along the way. What more could you ask for?

[edwardb]

Looking good! Lizard Skin is a bit of work, but I think you'll be happy with the result. What a pain your compressor died in the middle of the job.

[Dave Howard]

Big weekend! I managed to get a day of my son's spring break and he and a friend of mine showed up Saturday around noon. I had been at it since 6:00 AM double checking everything. Car on wheel dollies, HF load leveler, strap and come-along for transmission, check. OK, time to get this big Coyote in its new home.

Combined experience installing motors: Big Fat Zero. Last time I installed a motor it was a Datsun 1800 and my brother and I just put the short block in by hand, no hoist necessary. This was a slightly different experience.
65299

It took us about an hour and a half to slowly, and I mean slowly guide the Coyote in. Down a little, little more angle, move the car left, right forward...

It was great to have two extra sets of hands and eyes. Had a priceless experience with my son AND we managed to get the motor in place without losing any fingers or damaging the body panels. Whew!

65298

Once we got the engine down enough that the passenger side motor mount was making contact I removed the DS engine mount and started to install the DS header.

I let my help depart and started the slow process of getting those header bolts in. I think it took me just as long to get the header in as it did to install the motor. Part of that time was modifying a tool though.

I cut 1/2" off of an 8mm allen wrench and slipped it into a ratcheting box end wrench. My new favorite tool. Allowed me to get to all of the header bolts and made quick work of the fine threads.

65296

65297

One note: I installed the plastic oil sensor (removed from the stock pan) in the DS of the Moroso oil pan at the same time I was installing the header, with the engine still suspended but in place. I don't think you can get the oil pan between the mounts with the sensor installed and I don't think you can get the sensor in with the motor all the way in. Seemed like there was a sweet spot where it went in smoothly.

Header in, motor mount back on, engine settled nicely in the mounts so I mounted the transmission brace, added the 3/4" spacer and called it a day.

Thanks to all of the Forum tips and advice, we were able to get the engine in without interruption. No trips to ACE for missing bits and pieces.

Sunday I repositioned the car in the garage, put it back up on jack stands, installed the starter, ground strap, PS header and cleaned up. Then I had to fix a fountain, some landscape lights, reprogram some sprinklers and catch up on a long list of TO DO's.

I had the car on the ground for a few minutes. Got to sit in it and make car noises. What a great weekend. Need to get to the office so I can rest. Man, I'm tired.

-Steve

I haven't kept up with the thread, but liked this post in particular. My Coyote install experience was on Christmas Day 2012. My oldest son had made it home late the night before. Once Christmas morning was out of the way he wanted to see the progress on the roadster. We both went to the garage in PJs. 45 minutes later the engine trans was in place. And bolted down. Can't wait to do another. I'm thinking the 25th anniversary model will be the one.

[Straversi]

Looking good! Lizard Skin is a bit of work, but I think you'll be happy with the result. What a pain your compressor died in the middle of the job.

Thanks, and yes, that was a pain. Mostly because that job takes two solid days and I don't usually have two consecutive days to work on it. Had to wait a few weeks for the right weekend and then to have it shut down because of a 12 month old compressor? Thankfully they replaced it and it just cost me some time. On we go.

[Straversi]

I haven't kept up with the thread, but liked this post in particular. My Coyote install experience was on Christmas Day 2012. My oldest son had made it home late the night before. Once Christmas morning was out of the way he wanted to see the progress on the roadster. We both went to the garage in PJs. 45 minutes later the engine trans was in place. And bolted down. Can't wait to do another. I'm thinking the 25th anniversary model will be the one.

Thanks,
I've had a few great experiences with my son and with my daughter on this build. Little things... but they are experiences we will all remember.

Only a few more years to plan out that 25th anniversary build...
-Steve

[Straversi]

The need for foot box vents has and will continue to be debated. I live in Los Angeles where a 45 minute cruise might mean bumper to bumper traffic traveling all of 10 miles. I'm sure I'll use and enjoy the vents.

I bought the ducts, hight temp hose and bulkhead valves with clutch style cable from **********. Same components Cobra Earl use to sell I believe. The fans are marine bilge blowers. When I located the valves and the blowers I didn't like how tight the hose had to bend. The high temp hose is pretty stiff. I had seen others use an aluminum or plastic elbow at the valve so the hoses didn't kink. I found these 3" adjustable duct elbows. The height is good and you can create the perfect angle but they are pretty flimsy.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69388&d=1498435659

I had a half a sheet of adhesive heat shield left over so I cut some strips and wrapped the elbows. The heat shield set the adjustable elbow in place and stiffened them up nicely. That stuff is nasty sharp but if you don't bleed on your projects every once in a while you are just mailing it in.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69394&d=1498437415

Hoses sit in nicely now without any kinks.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69395&d=1498437461

Driver's side was even tighter before the added elbows. I ran the clutch cable control for the valve through the aluminum with a tight grommet. Have not determined exactly where I want the knobs. I'll figure that out when I get the dash mocked up.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69396&d=1498437487

Inside of the ********** valves.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69397&d=1498437520

So far, so good. I'll wire the blowers next.
-Steve

[Straversi]

Couple more small projects completed.

At some point I swapped out my F panels for the FF Metals Wide Tire F Panels. I think I did this after reading WarEagle's post bout tires rubbing. I was at a point where swapping them out was easy. Wouldn't want to do it now with all of the other stuff installed in the engine bay. You can see them in the photo. Looks they they will clear the tires lock to lock but won't know until everything is buttoned up. I tried to install the splash panel but the upper and lower flanges on the new F panel will need some manipulation so I'll need to wait for the body to go on for that.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69388&d=1498435659

Pet shop carbon pellet fuel vent filter built per EdwardB instructions.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69409&d=1498441533

I installed this leather partial wheel wrap. This is from Tangent. The same vendor that supplies the hidden roll bar connecting widget. I wasn't sure I'd like it when I ordered it but I really like the way it feels and looks. Good feel but keeps some of that classic wood look. Also good for those of us who can't make up our minds, leather steering wheel, wood steering wheel, leather, wood.....

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69410&d=1498441554

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69411&d=1498441578

-Steve

[Straversi]

First Start Video:

https://youtu.be/qS-F0_0Byfc

and now the rest of the story.....

My first first start video was attempted a couple of months ago only to fail with no power to my fuel pump.
I put 12V across my fuel pump directly and it worked great, proven by a few fuel leaks. Fixed the leaks, called it a day and tried it again in the morning. The next day, forgetting that I had manually primed my fuel system, I turned the motor over again and if fired up, if only briefly.

So I knew the fuel pump worked, the starter worked, the motor had good fuel injection and spark.

Somewhere there was a problem in my wiring or electrical components. The forum gave me a few areas to check with no luck so I called Ford Racing Tech. We checked every connection and component. They asked me to send back my PCM for analysis. Checked out fine.

Weeks have passed.

They sent me a new power distribution box and rear harness. I disconnected when I had done and rewired with the new battery cables, PDB, heavy duty fuse, Coyote pigtail, etc. Temporary wiring, everything draped over the car but no change.

After another session of "double check every connection" I discovered I had connected the orange engine warning light backwards. That was enough to give the PCM a signal it didn't like so no joy to the fuel pump.

Problem solved right? Turn the key, hear the fuel pump spin, but now the engine wont fire. At this point I'm shot.

Months have passed by now.

I called a good friend of mine for help because I needed another pair of hands and eyes and a second brain for a sanity check. The best thing about a second person is that they don't necessarily believe your "givens".

Turns out I am now getting Zero fuel pressure, but damn, the fuel pump was working. Well, it worked just long enough to fill my lines and injectors once and then the clamp that holds the rubber hose to the metal pick up tube popped off and failed.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72328&d=1502764387

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72327&d=1502764346

This is the in-tank fuel pump provided by FFR. Brand new, worked for a total of 2 minutes. We replace the clamp with a stainless screw type (not sure if I'm happy with this) and we were back in business.

Turn the key, fuel pressure -check, catch, cough sputter die repeat. Damn! One last walk around reveals that in these months of waiting I decided to trim my air intake snout so the air filter would not rub on the F-Panel and inadvertently flipped the pipe segment so the Mass Air Sensor was now backwards.

With everything back in place, turn the key and that Coyote finally come to life. Hallelujah!

[wareaglescott]

Awesome Steve! Congrats
I had the exact same thing happen to my fuel pump but it was after about 50 miles of driving the go cart. Very tricky to figure out when you can hear the pump running. You said yours came from FFR? I did not know they sold fuel pumps. Mine came from a popular vendor and he did a good job of making it right once we realized that was the problem.

I can appreciate your relief when getting it started. I to battled the gremlins for quite some time and had many hours on the phone with Ford racing and sending things back to them for testing. I got a little chuckle out of your "all right that was exciting" there at the end without a ton of emotion. One of my buddies told me I didn't look very excited in my first start video. Until you have gone through what we go through to get these things running I don't think outsiders can understand the feelings with that first start. Im sure like me you were doing cartwheels on the inside! Congrats again. I am so pleased to see your progress.

[Straversi]

Awesome Steve! Congrats
I had the exact same thing happen to my fuel pump but it was after about 50 miles of driving the go cart. Very tricky to figure out when you can hear the pump running. You said yours came from FFR? I did not know they sold fuel pumps. Mine came from a popular vendor and he did a good job of making it right once we realized that was the problem.

Come to think of it you are right. FFR did not supply the fuel pump. I got it with my engine package. Sorry, FFR!

You are also right in how relieved and excited I was in the video. I was getting pretty discouraged and frustrated. Very happy now!

[WIS89]

Congratulations Steve!

I know that must have felt great, especially after the frustrations.

I also know what you mean about a fresh set of eyes. My son helps me with that all the time. I don't always agree with his recommendations, but he always has new ideas!

Quick question about your fresh air vents. Where did you source the butterfly valve where it attaches into the footbox?

Congrats again!

Regards,

Steve

[Straversi]

Congratulations Steve!

I know that must have felt great, especially after the frustrations.

I also know what you mean about a fresh set of eyes. My son helps me with that all the time. I don't always agree with his recommendations, but he always has new ideas!

Quick question about your fresh air vents. Where did you source the butterfly valve where it attaches into the footbox?

Congrats again!

Regards,

Steve

Thanks,
Like a lot of us less experienced builders, I tend to put more faith in new parts functioning properly than in my own ability and that lack of confidence can affect troubleshooting. A good helper can help challenge what you think you know.

My fresh air vent valves are from ********** Accessories. They are listed on their website under Interior then Cockpit & Interior and then Heaters & Vents. Kind of hidden. I also got the high temp hose and the mesh vent covers there.

The valves come with clutch cable style controls. The controls have a threaded collar. I drilled and threaded the 2" tube with a 3/8"-24 tap and mounted the controls in the tube under the dash.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72358&d=1502819795

I think I am clear of all the door hinge mechanism. If anyone sees a problem with this location, let me know.

-Steve

[Straversi]

When I decided to build with a Coyote I wanted to use the Boss manifold or something similar. I found a local company, Modular Motorsports Racing that specializes in high performance modular motors. They ship Coyote based motors up to 3,500 hp for drag cars, sprint, track etc. all over the world from their little shop in Camarillo, CA. All I wanted was something that looked good so I didn't fit their usual customer profile. Most of the guys working there drove moderately modified Mustangs or Raptors so they tolerated my questions and gladly relieved me of my money. Very expensive candy store for Coyote customers.

This is their Roadrunner manifold in its most basic form. Basically an aluminum version of the Boss. It does not support the CMCV system. I know the Pros and Cons of that discussion. I like the look and am willing to sacrifice a little low end performance.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72370&d=1502823770

You can't follow the Ford coolant plumbing diagram with this manifold. Well, you can but it looks ugly. MMR has an inline thermostat housing and block off adapters so you can route two -12 lines to a fill cap Y and use the FFR overflow tank. I was skeptical but they showed me a dozen cars plumbed this way so I had to jump in their camp and believe what they were telling/selling me. EDIT: This did not work. I had to replace this coolant plumbing with standard Ford routing after I had some overheating issues. I was able to duplicate the Ford routing using braided hoses but it took some work. End Edit.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72369&d=1502823690

While I was at it, I might as well add their remote oil filter and the FFR oil cooler.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72381&d=1502823892

In for a penny, in for a pound.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72386&d=1502823956

I mounted the cooler on a temporary panel. I'll install the FFR supplied sheet metal when I get the body on. Might use this piece to reinforce the FFR panel. Figure that out later.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72383&d=1502823924

-Steve

[Dave Howard]

Very cool. A nice change from a painted dress up kit or OEM intake that has become the norm. And I agree....Gen II Coyote owners should seriously consider ditching the CMCV system, dress up the appearance of the engines and acquire an aftermarket tune as part of their build plan and budget. Everyone wants to see under your hood. Whether its at a car show or at the parking lot of the local grocery store. Straversi, you'll be putting on an impressive show every time your hood is up.

[Straversi]

Very cool. A nice change from a painted dress up kit or OEM intake that has become the norm. And I agree....Gen II Coyote owners should seriously consider ditching the CMCV system, dress up the appearance of the engines and acquire an aftermarket tune as part of their build plan and budget. Everyone wants to see under your hood. Whether its at a car show or at the parking lot of the local grocery store. Straversi, you'll be putting on an impressive show every time your hood is up.

Thanks Dave,
Yes, a custom tune is in the plan. I made the decision to go with the aftermarket intake before I knew the Gen II Coyotes came with the CMCV system. More of an unconscious decision to go without it. I had a certain look in mind and I'm very happy with it.
-Steve

[WIS89]

Steve-

Thanks for the response and info! I appreciate it.

Also, Like Dave I really like what you are doing under the hood. The Boss inspired intake looks great.

I think your engine bay is going to be really fantastic when she is all done. Great work!

Regards,

Steve

[Straversi]

Finished up the engine with a boat load of braided stainless lines. -12 AN's with braided rubber hose for coolant lines. -10 AN's for the air/oil separator and PCV system. -6 AN's with Teflon lined high pressure lines for power steering and -6AN's with Teflon lined hose for fuel. That's a trunk full of fun.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72396&d=1502830840

I discovered quickly that braided stainless lines are pretty stiff, especially in the larger diameter. This becomes critical because the engine bay is so tight, the hoses are very short and they have vey little flex. It would be much more forgiving to route lines in a 53 Ford pickup engine bay.

So the hose and fitting determine final placement of some of the components as much as anything else. I had an idea of where I wanted to mount the power steering reservoir; for example, but the -10 fitting and hose selected the exact placement. I'm glad that I made up my hose before I installed the nut-serts in the F-Panel and mounted my reservoir.

I also learned that when making up hoses the tolerances are +/- 1/4" at best (with my hose making ability). When multiple pieces are linked together like the PS pump, rack, cooler and reservoir it was best to make one hose at a time.

The PS pump and rack are obviously fixed so I made up the return line with a 120 degree -10 fitting at the pump-end to relieve some of the bend in the hose. That hose located the reservoir. I determined the location of the cooler after playing with different fittings with 45, 90, 120 and 180 degree bends.

I bought hose and fittings from a local vendor who was kind enough to let me buy fittings in multiple angles and swap out the ones I didn't need as long as I didn't tighten them down. I'd clamp the component in place and put different angled fitting on the ends and then bend and mark the hose to the correct lengths. Could have used a second set of hands for this, but managed to hold the fittings, hose, paint-pen and ruler at the same time.

Oh, here's a tip; 90 degree fittings are cheaper than 45's and way cheaper than 120's and 180's. Also, not all angles are available in every style of fitting.

KRC power steering pump and cooler part numbers are right out of the EdwardB playbook.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72380&d=1502823882

Since I used a different coolant reservoir, I ended up locating my PS cooler on the other side of my radiator.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72378&d=1502823864

Here are some brackets I made for my remote oil filter, coolant reservoir and air/oil separator. I think I enjoy these small fabrication projects as much as anything else on the build.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72385&d=1502823945

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72384&d=1502823936

I bought the Moroso Air/Oil Separator. I had planned to mount this in the front of the engine but it got crowded up front in a hurry. This is another case where the stiff hoses influenced location. I made a bracket that picked up one of the engine mount holes in the back of the head.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72392&d=1502824043

This is the completed engine bay.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72389&d=1502823992

[Ni¢]

The need for foot box vents has and will continue to be debated. I live in Los Angeles where a 45 minute cruise might mean bumper to bumper traffic traveling all of 10 miles. I'm sure I'll use and enjoy the vents.

I bought the ducts, hight temp hose and bulkhead valves with clutch style cable from **********. Same components Cobra Earl use to sell I believe. The fans are marine bilge blowers. When I located the valves and the blowers I didn't like how tight the hose had to bend. The high temp hose is pretty stiff. I had seen others use an aluminum or plastic elbow at the valve so the hoses didn't kink. I found these 3" adjustable duct elbows. The height is good and you can create the perfect angle but they are pretty flimsy.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69388&d=1498435659

I had a half a sheet of adhesive heat shield left over so I cut some strips and wrapped the elbows. The heat shield set the adjustable elbow in place and stiffened them up nicely. That stuff is nasty sharp but if you don't bleed on your projects every once in a while you are just mailing it in.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69394&d=1498437415

Hoses sit in nicely now without any kinks.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69395&d=1498437461

Driver's side was even tighter before the added elbows. I ran the clutch cable control for the valve through the aluminum with a tight grommet. Have not determined exactly where I want the knobs. I'll figure that out when I get the dash mocked up.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69396&d=1498437487

Inside of the ********** valves.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69397&d=1498437520

So far, so good. I'll wire the blowers next.
-Steve

I like those blowers. I live in Florida and it gets too hot down here.

[Straversi]

The Coyote engine cover does a great job of hiding the stock wiring harness. With the MMR manifold I needed/wanted to come up with a way to hide or improve the look of the lumpy wiring harness.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72574&d=1503241316

Since I was going to prune away the CMCV leads, the Supercharger and A/C leads I started to think about hiding the harness under the manifold. This was probably a byproduct of walking through SEMA. Hundreds of builds and not a wire to be seen.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72573&d=1503241299

I made these small brackets. They mount on top of the manifold flange and I zip tie the revised harness to them so the harness is suspended, rather than resting on the motor.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72523&d=1503098446

Well, I started pruning and one thing led to another. That Coyote engine cover was looking pretty good about now. Yikes

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72371&d=1502823779

Everything gets wrapped in heat shield tape, then plastic conduit and classic braid.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72372&d=1502823790

Mostly complete here.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72375&d=1502823823

Look Ma, no wires! This took way, way, way more time than I thought, but happy with the results.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72576&d=1503242853

-Steve

[Straversi]

Last bit of engine wiring. I made the bracket to mount the PCM based on EdwardB's photos. I fabbed a second piece to extend the front to provide a little protection for those big connectors.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72373&d=1502823801

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72377&d=1502823855

Probably unnecessary but they are directly over the headers so I figured a little heat shield couldn't hurt.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72376&d=1502823846

-Steve

[Paul2STL]

[QUOTE=Straversi;291411]Last bit of engine wiring. I made the bracket to mount the PCM based on EdwardB's photos. I fabbed a second piece to extend the front to provide a little protection for those big connectors.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72373&d=1502823801

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72377&d=1502823855

Probably unnecessary but they are directly over the headers so I figured a little heat shield couldn't hurt.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72376&d=1502823846

-Steve[/QU
Nice job on hiding the wires under the intake and the brackets you made for the reservoirs. The mount you made for the Coyote PCM now comes with the installation kit from FFR. They probably copied EdwardB's also, since it is exactly the same. Your engine bay will look pretty slick. :cool:

[Straversi]

[QUOTE=Paul2STL;291418Nice job on hiding the wires under the intake and the brackets you made for the reservoirs. The mount you made for the Coyote PCM now comes with the installation kit from FFR. They probably copied EdwardB's also, since it is exactly the same. Your engine bay will look pretty slick. :cool:[/QUOTE]

Thanks Paul2STL,

And yes, I saw that FFR updated their PCM bracket after a couple of strange iterations. Considering all of the vendors and options that FFR supports, they do a pretty amazing job of constantly updating their kits and keeping up with vendor changes. When Ford changes their IRS or Coyote components, you can bet they don't give FFR a heads up.

Luckily we have great forum members who provide detailed photos and descriptions of all their modifications. It would be nice to have perfect parts and updated manuals but I'd rather FFR use their limited engineering resources to innovative and continue to support new motors and suspensions. If we have to fab a few brackets every once and a while, so be it.

I still can't believe that FFR will sell a kit to a knucklehead like me, allow me drop a 400+ hp state-of-the-art motor in it and still hang their name on it. Massachusetts must have friendlier product liability laws than California. Well, that goes without saying.

-Steve

[Straversi]

Competition dash, hidden mounting, glove box, grab handle for passenger. Hmmm, sounds like EdwardB. Yep, 100%.

I wasn't planning to make my own glove box. By the time I purchased a glove box and recovered it or sent the vendor my leather, it seemed like I might as well just make my own. Anyway, I was waiting for Ford to send me back my PCM so I had the time and I like these kinds of projects.

I had originally purchased the FFR padded dash but I didn't want to use the standard ignition and light switch locations so I sent it back in exchange for a blank dash. Before I sent it back, I traced it on paper so I would have the glove box shape and gauge locations as a reference.

I positioned the gauges and made a few sight line adjustments for my height.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72366&d=1502819918

Cut my holes with an adjustable circle cutter on the drill press. These bits chatter and grab if you just clamp your material down but if you secure the dash to plywood with sheet metal screws they cut very smooth.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72824&d=1503707456

I traced the glove box shape on to MDF board, cut 4 of the 3/4" thick boards to give me a 3" deep form. Traced the same shape on to aluminum for the back panel and then twice more for the inner and outer panels for the door. These two had to be undersized for the thickness of the leather on the dash and on the door.

I cut the mounting collar out of 1/8" aluminum. My first attempt was out of thinner material but it wouldn't hold the shape very well. 1/8" did the trick. For a 3" deep glove box, I cut the thin gutter flashing 4 1/4" wide so I'd have 5/8" tabs to fold over the rear panel and over the front mounting collar.

All of the pieces pre assembly.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72362&d=1502819865

I covered my form in parchment paper so the JB Weld wouldn't lock it on the form permanently. Secured the sides with a surfboard strap and folded the tabs over. Applied the JB Weld and held it in place with some weights.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72365&d=1502819907

I painted the back with Lizard Skin to give it a more solid feel and I will line the interior with leather.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72360&d=1502819820

The glove box is mounted with counter sunk bolts. I counter sunk and epoxied these bolts in place. I'll mount these with regular nuts and thread lock, rather than nylock nuts. The dash will be covered in leather covering these screw heads so I'll need to be carefull not to break the screws loose.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72364&d=1502819898

So far, so good.

-Steve

[edwardb]

Looking good! And familiar. :) Glad my sharing helped you out.

[Straversi]

I made a test panel so I could figure out how oversized to cut my gauge holes and how undersized to make my glove box doors to account for the leather that will get pulled over the edges. I also wanted to practice with the leather, foam and glue to see what I'd be working with. This was time and effort well spent.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72363&d=1502819877

Temporarily installed dash. You can see the counter sunk screws smoothed over with JB Weld and sanded smooth.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72368&d=1502821008

I made EdwardB hidden dash mounting brackets from 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/8" aluminum angle. JB Weld and flush rivets attach the brackets to the back of the dash. I counter sunk the panels so the rivets protruded just a fraction, then ground the rivet heads flush. If I countersunk the panel too deep the rivets didn't grip fully.

I used the McMaster nut plates, same as EdwardB. I don't have any good photos of the back of the assembly.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72823&d=1503705982

I used the partial Leather Steering Wheel Wrap from Tangent Co. (Supporting Vendor). I really liked the stitched leather look and feel and wanted to do something similar with the grab handle. I tried to find a small piece of 1/8" thick x 2-3/8" x 7-1/2" leather that would match the steering wheel wrap, but no luck. I emailed Tangent and asked if they had any scraps or blems I could buy. If not, I was just going to buy a second kit. Chris found a blem he'd had lying around his office for several months. Sent it to me no charge. Love great vendors!!!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72357&d=1502818412

Also made the EdwardB grab handle support braces that secure the grab handle to the 2" frame.

Thanks again Paul! All of your documentation and photos are priceless.

This project kept me sane while I was trying to troubleshoot my electrical issues.

-Steve

[Jazzman]

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65977&d=1491279227


I was just re-reading your thread. Somehow this mod eluded me the first time through. This is a really great modification. You will find this much more comfortable than the stock panel. I'm no where near 6'6", but even my short legs don't exactly appreciate the corner that my right leg rests against. The worst part is that now that mine is all but done, getting back to this panel would be a real chore. I guess I will put this one in the file in case I have to remove the engine at some point. Maybe I will do it then. (Of course maybe I will get bored not having a project to work on and do this over the winter!!) Excellent Job!

[Jazzman]

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72576&d=1503242853


That is beautiful work! Very nicely done!! I especially like what you did with the radiator hoses. I will have to review you photos more closely on that one. Great work, Steve!

[Straversi]

Looking good! And familiar. :) Glad my sharing helped you out.

I hope you truly believe that "Imitation is the highest form of flattery". You've done inspiring work. Your documentation and helpfulness have allowed me to take my build further than I ever would have attempted on my own. Having your thread as a reference has eliminated so much of the guesswork and has made the experience much more enjoyable.

I can't say it enough. Thank you, Paul.

-Steve

[Straversi]

I was just re-reading your thread. Somehow this mod eluded me the first time through. This is a really great modification. You will find this much more comfortable than the stock panel. I'm no where near 6'6", but even my short legs don't exactly appreciate the corner that my right leg rests against. The worst part is that now that mine is all but done, getting back to this panel would be a real chore. I guess I will put this one in the file in case I have to remove the engine at some point. Maybe I will do it then. (Of course maybe I will get bored not having a project to work on and do this over the winter!!) Excellent Job!

Thanks. That panel hit my leg at a bad angle. I knew if I didn't make an attempt to change it, it was going to bother me like a pebble in my shoe every time I drove it. I feel proud when I get creative with a panel and then I look at what you took on with that flip top. Man you have some serious stones. Can't wait to see it come back from paint.

-Steve

[Straversi]

Progressing with my cockpit wiring. This is a bit of an iterative process. I read somewhere in this forum to first wire effectively and then wire efficiently. I take that to mean, make sure it works before making it pretty.

First pass

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73434&d=1504941457

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73437&d=1504941520

Getting it in order

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73436&d=1504941485

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73438&d=1504941533

Checking to see if everything fits. I had to remake one of my grab handle support braces. When I made them I didn't have my lower dash board supports installed. When I buttoned it up completely one of my brackets no longer fit. I'm still undecided on a couple of options so final location of all switches is still up in the air.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73440&d=1504941557

Dash back off to add wiring for USB ports, courtesy lights, foot box fans, seat heaters. Also running wires for back up light and throwing one more lead in the bundle in case I decide to add anything else.

Regarding the courtesy lights, I had the kit supplied adhesive LED strip wired but hanging loose. It made contact with my frame and shorted out, melted actually. I was never a big fan of that light but was surprised to find out it was unsealed like that. I bought five of these sealed LED lights at FRY's. Installed three under my dash supports and added two more under the trunk hoop. They are bright and inexpensive and I don't have to worry about anything making contact with them and shorting them out.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73441&d=1504942069

I have a few more leads to trim or tuck in but I'll reinstall the dash again before I make any final adjustments. Not pretty but its coming together.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73442&d=1504942084

Regarding back-up lights. If you are planning to add a back-up light, it would have been much easier to add a wire to that RF rear harness in the beginning. Same goes for trunk lighting. Kind of a bear after everything is assembled. I never ran my license plate lead into my trunk either. Another small detail that would have been MUCH easier to do about 30 steps ago. I guess I never gave it any thought. I left that lead hanging out the rear with my tail light leads and never thought to run it up through the trunk floor.

I don't feel guilty about not going the the gym. I think I did 10K in-car sit ups and under-car crunches crawling around doing this wiring.

-Steve

[Straversi]

Finishing up the cockpit wiring. Working on my "Oh Crap" panel; battery disconnect, fuel pump shutdown and emergency hazards. I'm putting these all together below the dash, hopefully where they won't ever be needed.

I sketched out a few variations to get the spacing to suit my eye.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73703&d=1505507535

There are a number of available switch guards, but I couldn't find ones that allowed me to use the full length toggles and that were not overly large. After some trial and error, I made my own with a small tubing bender, 3/16" aluminum rod and a 10-32 thread tap. The tricky part was making four exactly the same.

Close enough.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73709&d=1505507600

Finished panel. I'll powder coat this black so it's not so prominent.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73708&d=1505507583

I do kind of like the all aluminum look.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73705&d=1505507553

Maybe a 33 in the future with aircraft style gauges....


-Steve

[Mark Eaton]

your build looks great so far! It looks like you painted the front of your rear differeantial, what kind of paint did you use and did you need primer?

[Straversi]

your build looks great so far! It looks like you painted the front of your rear differeantial, what kind of paint did you use and did you need primer?

Thanks Mark,
I bought a gallon of the POR 15 Metal Prep, pre-primer and spray cans of the self etching primer and the gloss black top coat. I've been using that three step procedure for every steel part I've painted. After the first can of POR 15 gloss top coat was finished, I switched to Eastwood chassis black. It dries harder and faster than the POR15 in my experience.
-Steve

[Mark Eaton]

Finished up the engine with a boat load of braided stainless lines. -12 AN's with braided rubber hose for coolant lines. -10 AN's for the air/oil separator and PCV system. -6 AN's with Teflon lined high pressure lines for power steering and -6AN's with Teflon lined hose for fuel. That's a trunk full of fun.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72396&d=1502830840

I discovered quickly that braided stainless lines are pretty stiff, especially in the larger diameter. This becomes critical because the engine bay is so tight, the hoses are very short and they have vey little flex. It would be much more forgiving to route lines in a 53 Ford pickup engine bay.

So the hose and fitting determine final placement of some of the components as much as anything else. I had an idea of where I wanted to mount the power steering reservoir; for example, but the -10 fitting and hose selected the exact placement. I'm glad that I made up my hose before I installed the nut-serts in the F-Panel and mounted my reservoir.

I also learned that when making up hoses the tolerances are +/- 1/4" at best (with my hose making ability). When multiple pieces are linked together like the PS pump, rack, cooler and reservoir it was best to make one hose at a time.

The PS pump and rack are obviously fixed so I made up the return line with a 120 degree -10 fitting at the pump-end to relieve some of the bend in the hose. That hose located the reservoir. I determined the location of the cooler after playing with different fittings with 45, 90, 120 and 180 degree bends.

I bought hose and fittings from a local vendor who was kind enough to let me buy fittings in multiple angles and swap out the ones I didn't need as long as I didn't tighten them down. I'd clamp the component in place and put different angled fitting on the ends and then bend and mark the hose to the correct lengths. Could have used a second set of hands for this, but managed to hold the fittings, hose, paint-pen and ruler at the same time.

Oh, here's a tip; 90 degree fittings are cheaper than 45's and way cheaper than 120's and 180's. Also, not all angles are available in every style of fitting.

KRC power steering pump and cooler part numbers are right out of the EdwardB playbook.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72380&d=1502823882

Since I used a different coolant reservoir, I ended up locating my PS cooler on the other side of my radiator.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72378&d=1502823864

Here are some brackets I made for my remote oil filter, coolant reservoir and air/oil separator. I think I enjoy these small fabrication projects as much as anything else on the build.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72385&d=1502823945

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72384&d=1502823936

I bought the Moroso Air/Oil Separator. I had planned to mount this in the front of the engine but it got crowded up front in a hurry. This is another case where the stiff hoses influenced location. I made a bracket that picked up one of the engine mount holes in the back of the head.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72392&d=1502824043

This is the completed engine bay.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72389&d=1502823992

Steve,

These braided engine hoses look great! And they are not part of a kit? You just bought them locally and mixed and matched?

Thanks,

Mark

[Straversi]

Steve,

These braided engine hoses look great! And they are not part of a kit? You just bought them locally and mixed and matched?

Thanks,

Mark

Thanks, I believe the kits comes with everything you need to get down the road, but the braided stainless lines are not included. Braided lines are made custom. You can buy the components and make them up yourself or work with a vendor. I did both. They take a lot of planning.
-Steve

[Straversi]

I'm approaching a couple of milestones, first go-kart and putting the body back on. Starting to put some lists together for what needs to be done before either of these happen. I have plenty of work to do but I'm trying to prioritize those that need to be done now and those that can be put off until after my body leaves for paint. No sanding and painting for me brother, it will go off to a pro.

I invited Dan, aka Boat 737, who lives near by and is further along than I to come over and put another set of eyes on my project. Since Dan has his body on and his is a driving vehicle I figured he might spot some missed items and areas of concern. Thanks Dan! He was able to spot some areas I needed to address and also gave some time saving advice.

My brake balance bar was way out of whack. Dan showed me where that should be, at least for initial test drive.

I installed my horns. Dan pointed out that they were right were my fresh air hose ducts would run. Remounted those with nut-serts near the bottom of the fan shroud.

I installed my head lights, tail light and turn signals. All lights and turn signal work but not my hazards. Next time I have the dash off, I'll try to sort that out.

Installed my drive shaft. Had to grind the corner off the emergency brake line bracket for clearance.

I robbed the battery tender leads off my Caddy and installed them so I can keep the battery charged without accessing through the drop trunk battery mount. That was timely since I ran my battery down pretty good checking lights and turn signals.

We were discussing the alignment process and I noticed the grease boots on my lower pivots were torn, both sides. Bummer. That involved a moderately significant tear down. Although it was a PITA, I kept reminding myself that at least it wasn't rusty and re-reminded myself why I am building a Factory Five rather than rescuing some rusty muscle car hulk. Gotta love new parts!

Good chance to revisit some of the work I did a year ago when I was a year younger and a Factory Five year dumber. These are like dog years because I remember how nervous I was a year ago putting together some of these initial assemblies. It seems like a lot longer than 12 months.

Time flies when you are having fun and hemorrhaging cash.

Should have my replacement boots by tomorrow and then can reassemble and get back underway.

-Steve

[bigtedaf08]

Hey Steve, you're build is nuts! the attention to detail is on another level. Wheres this greaseboot your talking about? I'm sure it sounds niave, but why was it such a PITA?

[Straversi]

Hey Steve, you're build is nuts! the attention to detail is on another level. Wheres this greaseboot your talking about? I'm sure it sounds niave, but why was it such a PITA?

Thanks, I appreciate the kind words.

Regarding the grease boots, I'm talking about the dust covers on the upper and lower ball joints. I tried to take a photo but could not get a clear shot. This page from the manual shows what I'm talking about.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74468&d=1506915664

Pretty fancy photo/computer skills exhibited here!

The dust covers included in the complete kit are blue. I have built my project on jack stands so my suspension has been hanging un-weighted for 13 months. The dust covers are pinched when the suspension is at full drop. Not sure if that was the cause but 3 of 4 of the covers were torn.

This assembly goes together easily but to take it all apart is a pain. The ball joints are a taper fit into the spindle so separating them takes some effort. Had to borrow a couple different "ball joint separator" tools from O'Riley's to get it done.

-Steve

[Straversi]

My initial plan for alignment was to eye-ball it, get it close and then take it to a professional after it was all finished.

After reading multiple threads about trimming components to get the correct caster and after reading questions about wheels being centered in wheel arches I realized I didn't know much about the geometry of the suspension I have been tinkering with over the past year. Added to that, I had read enough threads about difficulties with alignment shops that I started leaning towards learning how to align this beast myself.

When I set her down and adjusted the ride height I discovered that my eye-ball method had my car pointing in 4 different directions at once.

Well that can't be good, can it?

At that point I ordered the Fastrax 91000 alignment tool, the 91030 no lip adapters, the Heidts toe adjustment plate and a magnetic base laser level per my favorite resource, EdwardB.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75094&d=1507572131

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75095&d=1507572139

I won't document my methods because far better descriptions have been written and in the end, I think I have this to the "about right" alignment settings. I'll do it again after putting on some miles and do it again, again after it is 100% complete with body weight, etc. Not ruling out taking it to a pro either.

What I will share is that the alignment process is a great learning experience. I read about it multiple times and was intimidated because I didn't really understand the descriptions. It was a learn as you go experience, at least for me.

It was also an iterative process. Don't try to get rear camber perfect and then go to toe-in because toe-in adjustments effect camber. Take little steps and sneak up on it. My first wheel position took me 4 times longer than my second and so on and so on. By the time I did drivers side front, it was a snap. Knee pads help. Lots of jacking, bracing, adjusting, measuring, repeat....

At least now when someone asks about my camber, caster and toe-in, I don't have to hide my dear in the headlights look.

Next stop, Go-Kart!

-Steve

[1932]

Good for you!

[Mark Eaton]

Wow, I'm impressed! This looks very tedious and difficult. But the darn thing needs to be aligned properly. I just figured I would take mine to a pro but maybe I need to invest in more gadgets. The idea of lasers is intriguing...

[Straversi]

Wow, I'm impressed! This looks very tedious and difficult. But the darn thing needs to be aligned properly. I just figured I would take mine to a pro but maybe I need to invest in more gadgets. The idea of lasers is intriguing...

"I have one simple request; and that is to have sharks with fricken laser beams on their heads....." Dr. Evil, Austin Powers.

Sorry, couldn't resist the Dr. Evil quote.

But seriously, you should never pass up the opportunity to buy a laser. Others align their cars with string and a tape measure, but where's the fun in that?

The alignment was not difficult. It did start out a bit tedious but ended up being quite easy. Just took some practice.

-Steve

[wareaglescott]

How did you go about aligning the rear with the IRS? I got the toe and the camber dialed in no problem but when I started driving I realized the car was not tracking straight. I realized I really was not sure how to align the rear properly and what to use as a reference to make sure it was correct/centered on both sides.

[Straversi]

How did you go about aligning the rear with the IRS? I got the toe and the camber dialed in no problem but when I started driving I realized the car was not tracking straight. I realized I really was not sure how to align the rear properly and what to use as a reference to make sure it was correct/centered on both sides.

Fair warning, do not consider this expert advice!

I set the ride height first.

I used the toe in plates and the laser level to get the wheels parallel to the frame. Used the Fastrax to measure the camber.
Did the same for the other side and realized I had both rear wheels parallel to the frame with proper camber but they were not equidistant from the frame. Had to go back and forth several times before I had both rear wheels parallel to and equidistant from the frame. Once they were equal and cambered correctly then I adjusted toe-in by 1/16"? Dont have my notes but it was not much. Double checked the camber and called it close enough.

Did the fronts in a similar way. Set the ride height.
Got the wheels parallel to the frame by adjusting the steering rack ends.
Followed the Fastrack instructions for camber and caster.
Then I reset the toe in by adjusting the steering rack ends agin.

When I drive it I'll let you know if it tracks reasonably straight.

Experts, if you are cringing at my methods, please chime in. I won't be offended if you tell me I have it all screwed up.

Oh, and this is body off so it might need a complete redo with body on

-Steve

[edwardb]

You're on the right track. Congrats for taking it on! Doing you own alignment is actually kind of interesting and I strongly prefer doing it myself versus the various results from using shops that may or may not be up to the task. Use of the FasTrax is pretty straightforward for setting caster and camber. Use of the toe plates is also pretty straightforward for setting toe-in by measuring using the provided tape measures and slots in the plates. Lots of guys use strings to get the overall front/back track parallel to the chassis. You can see multiple YouTube videos of this. The laser is an alternate approach that seems to work pretty well and maybe is a little more accurate. The specific Bosch laser level works great because it has a magnet that attaches to the toe plates. Plus it's just a cool tool to have in your collection. :)

To set the track, what I did was the following. For the rear, using the toe plates on the rear tires, I made some pieces from scrap hardboard that slide under the chassis behind the front tires. They're both exactly the same size, resting on the ground and against the 4-inch frame tubes. With the initial rear camber and toe-in set, projected the laser against the boards from each toe plate. Measured the distance from the edge of the board on each side. After several times re-adjusting camber and toe-in (they do interact some) was able to get the distances exactly the same on both sides. Meaning the track was straight. This picture gives the idea:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1253_zps3ughajnu.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1253_zps3ughajnu.jpg.html)

For the front, same idea except projected the laser toward the rear tires. Since the rear track is slightly wider than the front, the laser projected onto the edge of the rear tires. With the initial caster, camber, and toe-in set on the front, projected the laser to the back and checked the position of the dot on each of the two rear tires. Re-adjusted until the dot was the same distance from the edge on both sides. Hope this all makes sense. 1,700+ miles now on this build. Only slight tire wear so far and looks completely normal. Tracks perfectly.

[broku518]

Hi Steve.
Very impressive build. I have a question about adding USB charger. I noticed you added all kinds of fancy lights here and there. I only want to add a USB charger. Nothing too complicated.

Thanks,
Martin

[wareaglescott]

Hi Steve.
Very impressive build. I have a question about adding USB charger. I noticed you added all kinds of fancy lights here and there. I only want to add a USB charger. Nothing too complicated.

Thanks,
Martin

Not to step on Steve's toes in his thread but I added a USB charger. Just used the unused radio wire in the Ron Francis harness for my 12V supply and ran it to the USB and then grounded it to the frame.

[broku518]

Not to step on Steve's toes in his thread but I added a USB charger. Just used the unused radio wire in the Ron Francis harness for my 12V supply and ran it to the USB and then grounded it to the frame.

I am not planning on having radio. I did some quick search on Amazon and found some simple USB chargers.

[Straversi]

I am not planning on having radio. I did some quick search on Amazon and found some simple USB chargers.

I don't have a radio, heater or wipers so I had a few circuits on the RF harness to choose from. I also added the cigarette lighter style adapter. I've read where people use electric driving blankets. Even with heat seats I think that will be popular feature with my wife. I bought both from West-Marine.

I swapped the LED strip light that came with the kit for a few sealed LED lights but they are on the same RF courtesy light circuit.
-Steve

[WIS89]

Steve-

Build is looking great, and I love the Dr. Evil quote! I have really enjoyed following along with your progress. You have inspired me to do my own alignment. Plus, I get to buy some more tools, which is always good!!

brocku-

I am installing a combination USB charger and cigarette lighter in my car. I did this simply for the flexibility it offers. I didn't want to put in both a USB and cigarette lighter, and when I found the combined unit, it made sense to save the space and separate wiring by having them together... Got them at Amazon.

Sorry for the tangent Steve. Keep up the great work!

Regards,

Steve

[Straversi]

I bled the brakes and hydraulic clutch for the first time. Had to re-bend and replace one short section of brake line that leaked.

Rolled it out of the garage next to big brother and let it run until the thermostat opened for the first time.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75776&d=1508719735

My neighborhood is nothing but steep hills so I had to run it back and forth in my driveway a dozen times before I had confidence in the brakes.

No more excuses, Go-Kart time.

Please forgive the audio, the Go Pro mount was a little shaky.

https://youtu.be/n_nVT6wi13g

-Steve

[wareaglescott]

Great job Steve. Congrats! Looked like a beautiful day for a drive.
If I am remembering correctly you are quite tall. Looks like you did really well with your leg room from what I could tell in the video. How do you feel about your leg and foot room? That was a pretty long first drive. What are your driving impressions?

[WIS89]

Congratulations Steve!

She looks and sounds great. And, unless something was wrong with the microphone, she sounds quiet too!

I like the confidence in such a long first drive. Congratulations on the milestone, and I look forward to watching you finish things up.

Regards,

Steve

[Straversi]

Great job Steve. Congrats! Looked like a beautiful day for a drive.
If I am remembering correctly you are quite tall. Looks like you did really well with your leg room from what I could tell in the video. How do you feel about your leg and foot room? That was a pretty long first drive. What are your driving impressions?
Thanks Scott,
Yes, 6' 6" and the leg room is great. I'll lose a bit when I pad and cover my seat and add carpet etc but I've figured a way to notch and pocket the rear sheet metal to get that room back if needed. I'll wait until I get the body on before I mess with that though. I didn't notice my feet. Paying attention to too many other things. No problems that I took note of.

Car drove smooth and stopped straight. So far so good.

WI89,
The GoPro mike must have been overwhelmed by the wind noise and mounting vibration because the car is definitely NOT quiet. I was surprised by the audio myself.

-Steve

[Vspeeds]

Awesome job. Congratulations on go-karting

[Straversi]

Awesome job. Congratulations on go-karting

Thanks. My brother lives in Elk Grove. He says there is a beautiful red FFR in the area he sees often. I checked out your build page to see if it was you.

Love your 289 project. I always forget the 289s have a separate forum. I'll follow along with your build.
-Steve

[bigtedaf08]

Im never ceasing to be amazed, Steve! thanks for explaining the greaseboot situation too;)

[Straversi]

A couple of months ago I advanced to the Go-Kart stage.

Prior to the first road test I knew I had a small oil leak coming from the side plug in the Moroso oil pan and a perpetual drip in my FFR Flex lower radiator hose. No problem just some things to address later.

After a few laps around the neighborhood I discovered my FFR brake fluid reservoirs were leaking as well as a drip coming from the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder.

Few more laps and found my radiator overflow tank was emptying itself every drive.

Put the car back up on jack stands and discovered fluid splattered from the drive shaft back. Not dripping but evenly covering everything from drive shaft to fuel tank.

Quickly determined that at the very end of my transmission there was an opening for a mechanical speedometer, I assume. There should have been a plug here but mine was shipped without.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78850&d=1515436003

Quick call to Mike Forte and a plug was in the mail.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78851&d=1515436018

First issue fixed.

Next issue was coolant. Initially I swapped out my FFR overflow tank for a larger capacity unit. That was not my problem. I was overheating so it didn't matter how large my expansion tank was. (Two overflow tanks soon to be listed for sale).

The problem was that my thermostat was not opening. No problem with the thermostat, just my coolant routing. I went with an aftermarket intake manifold and it blocked the stock coolant routing. The vendor that sold me the manifold showed me a different way to route the coolant lines and it made sense at the time. They still say it would work but I decided to punt and go back to the conventional Coyote coolant routing.

I bought the Moroso top tank, Boig Cool Pipe lower radiator hose, the F-150 upper radiator hose and the radiator return line with check valve. I removed my water pump and tapped the outflow port so I could use the AN fittings instead of the stock hoses. Also welded AN fittings to the Moroso tank. I was able to reuse most of the -AN fittng and hoses from my original routing, with some resizing.

I fabricated the reducer plug per Ford and EdwardB recommendations since I'm not running a heater.

I think the hardest part was fabricating the brackets to mount and support the Moroso top tank. Since I used the Breeze upper radiator mount, I couldn't copy Edwardb's brackets exactly but I did steal the concept.

Boig lower radiator hose with a 1-1/2" cable style clamp and a spacer bolted to a nutsert in the frame. No more drips. I did have to trim the upper hose elbow a couple of times to keep the hose from rubbing against the steering shaft.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78854&d=1515438168

Pesky little brackets to mount the Moroso top tank. 1/8" x 3/4" steel bar stock, vise and sledge hammer.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78855&d=1515438179

Conventional Coyote coolant line routing. No overheating. I guess those Ford guys know what they are doing after all.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78856&d=1515438194

More to come.
-Steve

[wareaglescott]

Steve where did you get the bracket that is holding the lower radiator hose next to the cross tube? Do you have a part number or a better picture of one?
My current status is zip ties! This is a definite upgrade!

[Straversi]

Steve where did you get the bracket that is holding the lower radiator hose next to the cross tube? Do you have a part number or a better picture of one?
My current status is zip ties! This is a definite upgrade!

Hi Scott,
That is a Snug-Fit Vibration-Dampening loop clamp from McMaster-Carr #317T58. It is just a cushioned stainless cable clamp like the 3/4" ones you can buy at ACE but since it is 1-1/2" ID, I had to order it. Good news is that they sell them individually, not in a 25 pack.

I put a 10/24 nutsert in the frame tube and made a spacer that was around 3/4" and it holds it great. If I flipped the clamp around I could have eliminated the spacer but the nutsert would have been right next to a weld. Ha, Don't knock zip ties. They are a staple in my garage.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78872&d=1515455389

-Steve

[SerpantFL]

Steve, just finished absorbing the build thread... Amazing work! You have put a lot of time and thought into the build and it shows well.
Thank you in advance for the tidbits to save time and headaches when I get to my build. Safe driving!

[Straversi]

Steve, just finished absorbing the build thread... Amazing work! You have put a lot of time and thought into the build and it shows well.
Thank you in advance for the tidbits to save time and headaches when I get to my build. Safe driving!

Thanks, I appreciate the kind words. Hopefully some of this helps others.
-Steve

[Straversi]

Couple more side projects knocked out while I was waiting for parts. I ordered a set of side pipes from Gas-N. I am very satisfied with the look, sound, order process and delivery, just as everyone who buys them seems to be. I liked the FFR pipes but I tend to leave my quite neighborhood very early on weekends. Figured I might as well do what I could.

Here is a comparison of the FFR and Gas-N pipes. Gas-N below with the longer muffler section.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78846&d=1515435938

I also made a radiator screen (direct copy from EdwardB) with stainless mesh from Pegasus Racing and 1/8" x 3/4" aluminum stock from HD. I think I will keep mine in natural finish but I'll determine that later. I'll drill out some of those rivets when I add the mounting brackets.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78847&d=1515435953

I also built a miniature version for my oil cooler. I used 1/2" angled aluminum for the horizontal legs of the frame so I could bolt the screen directly to the cooler mounts. I painted the ends black so they disappear and you only see the screen. Not sure if this will matter when the body goes on.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78848&d=1515435972

Complete set. The large radiator screen is not mounted. I will tackle that when I do the side and front aluminum after first body fitting.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78849&d=1515435986

-Steve

[Jim1855]

Steve,

Your project notes are a great help. Got back into the thread and saw the radiator and oil cooler photos and notes. Been wondering how these would work together, your photos show a good method. Great photos too.

Thanks,

Jim

[Straversi]

Steve,

Your project notes are a great help. Got back into the thread and saw the radiator and oil cooler photos and notes. Been wondering how these would work together, your photos show a good method. Great photos too.

Thanks,

Jim

Jim, Happy to pass on what others have shown me.

-Steve

[Straversi]

I was content with my FFR master cylinder reservoirs. I ordered three for the brakes and hydraulic clutch. I had the most up to date version with the cap with an O-ring, fine threads and no vent. I did a little go-karting and noticed the cylinders were wet. Wiped them down, snugged them up tighter, few more laps and more leaks. If I cranked the lids down as tight as possible, they seemed to stop leaking but it took plyers to get them to open. Didn't seem like a long term solution.

Dan at FFR sent me three new ones, but by the time they arrived I noticed a leak from the bottom as well. Time for something different. I'll send Dan back his reservoirs and maybe he can help somebody else out. I do appreciate that he was willing to help.

I know the CNC's are popular and proven but I got used to the look of the round cylinders. Wilwood has a new reservoir #WIL-260-12697 with a bladder and vented cap that I liked so that's the direction I headed. My Wilwood master cylinders from FFR came with the plastic caps with band clamps and the red rubber hoses. The new Wilwood reservoirs only come with a -3 AN end fitting so you need to order the adapter #WIL-220-13130 that threads into the 11/16-20 threads inside the MC and adapts to a -3AN flexline. Wilwood said they have been adding the 11/16-20 threads to all of their MCs for the past year or so.

I made a bracket out of aluminum angle that would bolt up to the bottom of the 3/4" chassis tube. The brackets for the reservoirs come with (2) 1/4-20 bolts, one to mount the bracket and one to mount and squeeze the cylinder so I needed to mount (2) 1/4-20 nut inserts x 3 into my bracket.

Al_C started a thread a while ago about "basic machining questions" that turned into a discussion about aligning and expanding holes. This was a test of my skills to get 6 nutserts installed so the brackets would mount and bolts not bind.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78862&d=1515440530

Wilwood reservoirs and brackets. The brackets are 3 1/4" wide so the assembly takes up more room than the CNC or the three FFR cylinders I had installed before. Dan mentioned that the reservoirs that will be shipped from FFR going forward will have an even larger footprint.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78861&d=1515440507

The -3 AN fitting on the bottom of the reservoir points straight down. The fitting on top of the MC points straight up. The braided flexlines you can order from Wilwood have either two straight fittings or a 90 on one end. the straight end on the flex hose caused issues I didn't like on either end. If I looped the straight end from the bottom of the reservoir the lines got even closer to my headers. It I looped the straight end on top of the master cylinder the bend is pretty tight not to rub on the top of the aluminum panels.

I had a local vendor make hoses with 90's on both ends. I also had them slip on a heat shield hose where the lines sit above the header for some cheap insurance. The red rubber hose is positioned where the lines pass through my original bulkhead opening. The red band on the other end is heat shrink tubing. One of the 90's needs to be clocked slightly since the MC fitting is higher than the reservoir fitting. Learned that the hard way.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78859&d=1515440486

Final assembly. Happy with the way it looks.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78858&d=1515440477

I was OK with the rubber hoses and the plastic caps on top of the master cylinders, but on the other hand, not an area I want to go back and rework once the body is on.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78860&d=1515440495

I took apart the fittings on my leaking hydraulic clutch slave cylinder and reassembled with a little more thread sealant and tightened a hair more and now I am drip free. Well, that was easy!

-Steve

[Jdav]

Those look really nice

[edwardb]

Love those Wilwood reservoirs as well. I literally sucked wind when I Googled one and saw the price though. Not sure I have room for the triple CNC on my Coupe build, so looking at alternatives. I'll keep this one in mind.

Your build is looking great BTW!

[Straversi]

Love those Wilwood reservoirs as well. I literally sucked wind when I Googled one and saw the price though. Not sure I have room for the triple CNC on my Coupe build, so looking at alternatives. I'll keep this one in mind.

Your build is looking great BTW!

Thanks Jdav, Thanks Paul.

Yea, I had the same reaction. Wilwood is awfully proud of those little cylinders. I employed a little of my wife's shopping logic though, "since I have a bunch of credits with Summit, they really weren't that expensive" ... I know, dangerous way to rationalize spending but I do like them and now I should be done, ha ha.

Presumably completed engine bay

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78852&d=1515436855

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79157&d=1515778396

Happy to be moving on to body and interior. I'll need to re-read a bunch of your posts now.

-Steve

[lewma]

Steve

This is an awesome build thread! Thanks for posting all the pics. I'm almost ready to hit the buy button and my build will be very close to yours. I'd be happy to hear your progress on certification in CA. I'm in north San Diego.

thanks!
mark

[Straversi]

Steve

This is an awesome build thread! Thanks for posting all the pics. I'm almost ready to hit the buy button and my build will be very close to yours. I'd be happy to hear your progress on certification in CA. I'm in north San Diego.

thanks!
mark

Thank you Mark. If you have the time and support of your family you certainly won't regret it. I'm having a blast.
You should go to the Huntington Beach Cruize-In in the Spring. Great opportunity to see lots of different options and meet some great people.
-Steve

[Straversi]

Just a quickie update. Got the body on for the first test fit. No bulb seal at this point, just a quick check for fit.

Little nerve racking to pull that body on and spread the sides, but like everything else, once done it was not as difficult as I had imagined.

It is an amazing transformation from chassis to car. Wow! More room and light in the garage and now this cool little red sports car to stare at. I can see why so many choose red; it is quickly becoming my favorite color. It looks perfect, even in gel coat. It takes me 10 minutes to get out of my garage because I just stop and stare at the lines from different angles.

I forgot to remove my front turn signals and had to pull those off quickly in the middle of the process. Ooops.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80014&d=1517252028

Initially, the nose got hung up on the oil cooler and I thought I might have to at least loosen the brackets but just had to get the body at a steeper downward angle and it slipped around the cooler and everything was fine.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80012&d=1517252007

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80011&d=1517251998

All for now.
-Steve

[robertjamesellis]

I like your setup on the wilwoods reservoirs and i was thinking about the same kind of bracket. I am still hoping that my 2 FF's will work. I really like the look of them and am hoping for the best. Great progress! What the height limit on those lids? I didn't look close enough back when the body was on so I'm just assuming I keep them no higher than the bar correct?

[wareaglescott]

That Coyote looks great in there!

[Straversi]

I like your setup on the wilwoods reservoirs and i was thinking about the same kind of bracket. I am still hoping that my 2 FF's will work. I really like the look of them and am hoping for the best. Great progress! What the height limit on those lids? I didn't look close enough back when the body was on so I'm just assuming I keep them no higher than the bar correct?

Thanks Rob,
Mine are about 1/4" below the top of the bar but flush should be fine. The lip of the engine bay opening on the body overhangs the square tube (inboard) and takes up 1/4" to 3/16". Make sure the reservoirs lids are spaced more than a 1/2" away from the tube. I never thought about the body but got lucky. If that doesn't make sense I'll try to get a photo for you.
-Steve

[Straversi]

That Coyote looks great in there!

Thanks Scott.

[robertjamesellis]

Steve,
That makes perfect sense. Thanks for the help. Hoping to get at least two of the three (still need to order the 3rd) this weekend and see how it looks.
Rob

[Straversi]

I stole the idea for a stainless steel and rubber floor mat from a Singer designed Porsche I saw at SEMA.

I had planned to sew rubber pads to the floor mat and side carpet near the gas pedal as I had seen others in this forum do but I liked the look and function of the stainless floor treatment and I've been tinkering with the idea since.

I bought a 1/8" x 12" x 12" dense rubber mat from McMaster and a piece of 22 gauge stainless from my local metal supply shop. I cut the heel pad area with my jig saw and punched the holes with a 1" punch/bead die from Eastwood. The vice grip looking tool in the photo has two wheels and it rolls a slight taper to the edge of a panel. Home aircraft builders use it so panels edges don't lift up. I rolled the edges of the heel opening so it would bite into the rubber pad instead of catching my heal.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80019&d=1517252108

Scrapped the original and started over, a couple of times. The holes and edges stretch and compress the stainless so I had to experiment with the spacing before I could control the deformation. I curved and lowered my foot box floor (about a year ago, yikes) for more foot room so I had to get this panel to conform to that too.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80017&d=1517252075

I made a wear pad for the vertical panel next to the gas pedal. The edges are rolled on this as well so it will bite into the carpet and not have an edge to catch. I used nutserts in the foot box side for this piece. The plan to find the nutserts after I install the carpet is to heat a small drill bit and push it through the back of the nutsert. This carpet melts very easily. At least it worked well in my trials.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80662&d=1518243560

After go carting a bit I decided to cut an inch off the bottom of my gas pedal. Already done in these photos. Time to skinny up the Wilwood pedals as well. I screwed these down to a piece of plywood and rough cut them with the jig saw. Bench sander with 60 grit finished the shaping. I mimicked the original AC pedal shape. These are a little smaller than the AC pedals you can buy but they are also thinner so I'm not giving up any legroom.

EDIT: later in the build ( end of thread) I scrapped the brake and clutch pedals. Too small after all. Luckily they are only $8.50 each. I trimmed them but not so much.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80660&d=1518243521

I like the extra room between the pedals and this gives me a lot more room for a dead pedal left of the clutch.

Finished assembly is bolted down to my foot box floor so over time I can replace the rubber pads. Once I get the carpet in I think it will come together pretty well. Overall, I'm happy with the results and the look.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80671&d=1518283775

I noticed Jazzman's latest post has a similar floor mat theme. Great minds think alike.

-Steve

[boat737]

I stole the idea for a stainless steel and rubber floor mat from a Singer designed Porsche I saw at SEMA.

I bought a 1/8" x 12" x 12" dense rubber mat from McMaster and a piece of 22 gauge stainless from my local metal supply shop. I cut the heel pad area with my jig saw and punched the holes with a 1" punch/bead die from Eastwood. The vice grip looking tool in the photo has two wheels and it rolls a slight taper to the edge of a panel. Home aircraft builders use it so panels edges don't lift up. I rolled the edges of the heel opening so it would bite into the rubber pad instead of catching my heal.

-Steve

Hi Steve. Who's your metal supply near by these days? And never seen that edge prep tool, where's that from?

I've got the hot rod running, 250 miles on it now. I've driven by 3 times in the last 3 or 4 months. Your never home. When do you have time to build?

[Straversi]

Hi Steve. Who's your metal supply near by these days? And never seen that edge prep tool, where's that from?

I've got the hot rod running, 250 miles on it now. I've driven by 3 times in the last 3 or 4 months. Your never home. When do you have time to build?

Industrial Metal Supply
2481 Alton Parkway, Irvine.
Not exactly local but they are great.

I can’t remember where I got that tool but I’ll look through some files in my office and let you know. Weekend build time has been hard to come by. That’s why I have been trimming foot pedals and working on project that I can spend a couple hours an evening on during the week.

Glad you are putting some miles on. Ready for paint yet?
-Steve

[boat737]

Industrial Metal Supply
2481 Alton Parkway, Irvine.
Not exactly local but they are great.

I can’t remember where I got that tool but I’ll look through some files in my office and let you know. Weekend build time has been hard to come by. That’s why I have been trimming foot pedals and working on project that I can spend a couple hours an evening on during the week.

Glad you are putting some miles on. Ready for paint yet?
-Steve

Since M&K Metals closed up, it's been mostly mail order for me. Too expensive though.

The car heads to Temecula on the 28th. Finalizing it with DaBat when I get home on Monday. I'll drive it as much as I can till about the 25th, then it's pull it all apart... again. It's getting serious now.

[wareaglescott]

Didn't make it past the first line when you mentioned Singer without stoping to day dream for 5 minutes.....
Anyways once I did continue this is great work. Very cool.

One question. You mention the dead pedal. I know you are quite tall. I find that I extend my left leg when driving and just rest it all the way in the corner on the frame tubing. It is quite comfortable. I was just thinking the other day how well it works as a foot rest and had I installed a dead pedal I would have had less room down there. Have you just tried having nothing there during your go carts and seen what you think? You might not want a dead pedal at all. Just a thought.

[Dave Howard]

Didn't make it past the first line when you mentioned Singer without stoping to day dream for 5 minutes.....
Anyways once I did continue this is great work. Very cool.

One question. You mention the dead pedal. I know you are quite tall. I find that I extend my left leg when driving and just rest it all the way in the corner on the frame tubing. It is quite comfortable. I was just thinking the other day how well it works as a foot rest and had I installed a dead pedal I would have had less room down there. Have you just tried having nothing there during your go carts and seen what you think? You might not want a dead pedal at all. Just a thought.

At 6'2", I'm like the war eagle. While cruising and touring, my left foot goes past the clutch pedal and rest up against the front wall of the foot box or the frame structure. In fact, I think having a dead pedal installed would be quite uncomfortable.

[Straversi]

Didn't make it past the first line when you mentioned Singer without stoping to day dream for 5 minutes.....
Anyways once I did continue this is great work. Very cool.

One question. You mention the dead pedal. I know you are quite tall. I find that I extend my left leg when driving and just rest it all the way in the corner on the frame tubing. It is quite comfortable. I was just thinking the other day how well it works as a foot rest and had I installed a dead pedal I would have had less room down there. Have you just tried having nothing there during your go carts and seen what you think? You might not want a dead pedal at all. Just a thought.

Yes, I have been resting my left foot on the frame tubing. That will probably be the dead pedal or maybe a small wedge to get the foot angle more comfortable. To be determined when I set the outer foot box panel in place.

If I were planning to do significant track driving I'd locate a dead pedal for better foot placement but legroom and comfort will win the day here.

Either way, I like that I have more room now to move my foot to the clutch without catching the clutch pedal on the wrong side.

-Steve

[Jazzman]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80671&d=1518283775

I noticed Jazzman's latest post has a similar floor mat theme. Great minds think alike.

-Steve

I approve!! Nicely done.

[Yama-Bro]

I like the wear pad. It's doctor Frank approved!:D

[Straversi]

Getting down to the last few projects, prior to shipping it off to paint.

I bought the Aero locking gas cap from Breeze.

The assembly and installation was easy, following EdwardB's instructions. Cut the nipple off of the Le Mans cap, flush with the bottom.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81351&d=1519144576

The nipple of the locking cap is a larger diameter so you need to enlarge the hole from the sawed off nipple. EdwardB used a routing table. Don't own one so I carefully clamped my cap ring down and used my router with a straight bit. My high school wood shop teacher might not have approved but with shallow passes it removed the material nice and smooth. Finished it off with a drum sanding bit on my drill press.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81350&d=1519144564

Drilled the holes in the LeMans assembly per the Aero cap instructions, slight bevel on the edge of the aero cap collar and it fit in with no fuss. Then I drilled the holes in the body to install the cap.

OK, now I am officially dipping my toe into the bodywork section of the instruction. Good to drill your first holes for something like the gas cap because your holes will be covered completely, ha.

Whoever recently wrote the bodywork drilling tip to "spin your drill backwards first to keep the gel coat from grabbing and cracking" (great tip), thank you. You still need to make gradual bit size increases but that tip works like a charm.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81349&d=1519144556

One more project down.

Next was the door latch, carriage bolt mod. Also drilled and tapped the knob for a 10/32 cap screw to keep the knob from working loose. Nothing new to add here other than thanks to those who have invented and perfected these easy improvements.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81921&d=1519952169

-Steve

[shark92651]

Glad I found this build, subscribed and I'll go back through it when I can. Looking good!

[Tom Mauldin]

Your doing a great job! I just discovered this thread and I love what you are doing!

[alv69]

what is the door latch carriage bolt modification? did a search and came up empty.

[Straversi]

what is the door latch carriage bolt modification? did a search and came up empty.

[QUOTE=edwardb;240383]

The replica door latches have a reputation for not being the best quality. This was one of the last items on my backorder list, and Jay told me FF was buying up supplies everywhere they could find them. I’m pretty sure they all come from the same place, and quality is not getting any better. These were the poorest I’ve had to date. Usually there are three different problems. There is a swaged joint inside that likes to come apart, the little knob can fall off the handle, and the pin doesn’t fit well into the catch. Mine had all three problems, plus a lot of flash and just generally poor workmanship. Returning them and getting a different set might be an option, but there’s a good chance they wouldn’t be any better. The good news is they’re not too hard to fix.

There is a well-known mod that’s been posted on the forum. Doors, door latches, hinges, FAQ, FFR FAQ (http://www.ffcars.com/FAQ/doors.html). I completed this mod with one slight difference. I used a shim between the pivot and the handle instead of replacing the wavy washer that was originally there. I happened to find just the right size and thickness in one of my washer junk drawers. Makes the handle a little more solid IMO. For the knobs, I drilled and tapped for a 10-32 x 3/8-inch SS button head through the handle and into the knob. Finally, I used stones on a Dremel and die grinder to open up the hole in the catch enough for the pin to seat properly. I don’t know if they don’t allow for the plating or what, but as delivered the pin would barely go in past the initial taper. This in my experience is why guys have trouble getting the doors to latch or the pin gets stuck in the latch.

Here are pictures of the finished products. Note some guys recommend not replacing the small spring visible here and only using the spring internal to the latching pin. I prefer to use both. Note also the latches come assembled dry with no lubrication. I don't understand that. Use some white lithium or similar when re-assembling. Makes a difference.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2006112016/IMG_4285_zpsrbd4u6vz.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2006112016/IMG_4285_zpsrbd4u6vz.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2006112016/IMG_4286_zpszp0auxeu.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2006112016/IMG_4286_zpszp0auxeu.jpg.html)


The photos and descriptions above are copied directly out of The EdwardB build thread. Hope you don't mind, Paul.

Note, he has a link to the other website embedded in the description above. The link goes to a more detailed description of the fix.
Hope that helps,

-Steve

[Straversi]

Thanks Tom,
Thanks Shark...
Hope you find something useful in all my blathering.
-Steve

[Straversi]

Got a few more items checked off the list.

I fabricated the cover for the trunk lid wiring access area. I drilled the holes and bonded some 8/32 nut plates from McMaster to the back with the HSRF.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81925&d=1519952253

Don't know why I drilled 8 holes. Working tired I guess and not thinking. It's not going anywhere.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81926&d=1519952266

Next I drilled out the holes and reshaped a few to mount the lights straight and even. Trying to get all of the holes drilled prior to paint.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81924&d=1519952211

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81923&d=1519952199

License plate bracket mounting holes. I know, exciting stuff.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81922&d=1519952186

I was preparing to do the Kleiner license plate bracket mod but I might just trim the license plate.

With the new Black/Yellow CA plates it looks like I can trim the outer edges off and modify the plates and none of the letters will be obstructed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81920&d=1519952158

It's not letter of the law but I think it falls under the "I doubt I'll get pulled over for it, but if I get pulled over for doing 140, Johnny Law might slap on a fix-it ticket." I've had fix-it tixs before. It will be tricky to fabricate a license plate frame but I'll mess with this when the body is off to paint. We'll see. I'm leaving this alone until later.

-Steve

[wareaglescott]

I trimmed mine down on the perimeter. It is such an odd thing for a car to have an issue fitting the plate I find it hard to believe any law enforcement would ever notice it even if they did pull you over for some other egregious offense!

[broku518]

Hi Steve,

I really like the look of the body on (can you keep the side pipes installed while you putting the body on?).
Also, the way pedal box area looks is very nice. I felt like I would need something under my feet that isn't slippery.
I don't fully understand the door lock issue, clicked on the link but the it wouldn't load the pics. (need to put this on my list to fix)
That cover in the trunk area - is that needed?

Thanks,
Martin

[Straversi]

Hi Steve,

I really like the look of the body on (can you keep the side pipes installed while you putting the body on?).
Also, the way pedal box area looks is very nice. I felt like I would need something under my feet that isn't slippery.
I don't fully understand the door lock issue, clicked on the link but the it wouldn't load the pics. (need to put this on my list to fix)
That cover in the trunk area - is that needed?

Thanks,
Martin

I read somewhere to remove the pipes to install the body. Don't know that it is mandatory to remove them but I only had one helper and it was definitely easier to have them out of the way.

The cover is not necessary. Very easy to make though and finishes off the trunk IMO. Otherwise you are looking at raw fiberglass.

Google: Door Latch Repair -by Wade Linger

You should get all of the photos and complete description.

-Steve

[broku518]

I read somewhere to remove the pipes to install the body. Don't know that it is mandatory to remove them but I only had one helper and it was definitely easier to have them out of the way.

The cover is not necessary. Very easy to make though and finishes off the trunk IMO. Otherwise you are looking at raw fiberglass.

Google: Door Latch Repair -by Wade Linger

You should get all of the photos and complete description.

-Steve

Thanks Steve!

[boat737]

The best way to search in Google I've found is:

"site:http://thefactoryfiveforum.com pinion angle" or "site:http://ffcars.com door latch" or whatever term you want to search by. (no quotation marks.)

[Straversi]

Next on the list was shaping the openings for the louvers and mounting the assemblies. I used the Finish Line louvers and the EdwardB method of bonding the McMaster studs to the body with HSRF. I stuck to the EdwardB plan other than I did it with the body on (not ideal). Lots more bending and stooping which is not my favorite thing.

I trimmed the opening with a drywall plunge router, very slowly up to about 1/32" of my line. I brought the opening up to my line with an air sander and finally a hand file. One tip for fine work: Paint pens and sharpie lines tend to get worn away as you work. I lightly scribed my line into the gel coat with an x-acto knife. As you are filing and sanding that fine scribed line fills with white dust and is very easy to see against the red gel coat or your black sharpie line.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82121&d=1520374158

First pass with the HSRF.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81929&d=1519952304

I sanded off some of the HSRF with the Dremel tool and added a second layer around the studs. Here's my only advice: Tape over the threads of the studs when adding HSRF to keep them clean. Keep a nut on the threads to chase out any HSRF that might sneak past your tape and gum up a thread. I did that on 7 of 8 studs. Must have got interrupted or something but one stud was left bare and yes it takes a long time to pick HSRF out of threads with an x-acto knife.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81928&d=1519952292

Finished product.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81927&d=1519952278

And that, ladies and gentlemen will conclude the body work section of this thread.

I was able to visit Jeff Miller at his shop and discuss what he like owners to do, and more importantly, what he'd prefer them not to do. He answered all of my questions and showed me how he like to do things, and in what order. As you can imagine, there are different ways to do all of these body fitting jobs, even amongst the pros. I have read so many threads and made tons of notes and while all of the ideas I've picked up are valid, not all are conducive to the way Jeff likes to work. I think if you are planning to take your project to a pro, it is time well spent to visit them in advance and discuss a game plan.

My hat's off to all of you who do your own body work and paint. I'd love to but just don't have the proper facilities. I drilled a few holes, made a little fiberglass dust and got just enough of a taste of it to be able to hand it off to Da Bat with no regrets.

On to the next project.

-Steve

[shark92651]

Looking good Steve. I'm not really looking forward to the fiberglass work either. I hope I can find a good painter here in the Dallas area.

[Straversi]

The Kirkey low backs seem to be the go-to seat for tall guys. These are the 17" wide model. I'll be mounting these directly to the floor and fairly upright for max head and leg room.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82110&d=1520373929

The rear of the seat will sit flush and I made a bracket to locate the front.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82108&d=1520373840

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82109&d=1520373915

I marked up my floor pan to show the 2" tube just fwd of the seat belt brackets and the steel plate. I marked the 4" main frame tube and the area where there is no steel support (no-man's land). I'll put two 5/16" nutserts in the 2" tube and run two bolts through the forward bracket and the steel plate. I might be able to get a bolt through the back of the seat into the 2" tube in the back wall. Still need to work that out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82111&d=1520373939

I'm just laying things out. I won't drill until I have final body positioning but since they sit so low I don't see any way to interfere with the body.
-Steve

[Straversi]

The Kirkeys have been part of my build plan since day-one but I've never loved their shape. Something about the side bolster bothered me. I noticed in one of Gumball's posts that he had reshaped his seats. I PM'd Chris and he was kind enough to direct me to one of his earlier posts where he had photos of his seat shaping in progress. So, finally I'm thanking someone besides EdwardB.

The Kirkeys have a slotted oval aluminum edge extrusion. I called Kirkey and they said they'd sell me stock edging for $5/foot. Nice to know it was available if I buggered it up but I was able to get this done and retain the original edging.

First step was to grind the welds loose. Easier said than done but I got pretty good at it after a few. Once the welds were loose, I could bend the edging out of the way.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82518&d=1520983660

I free handed the shape I wanted.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82519&d=1520983670

Jig saw and hand grinder with flap wheel and I had the seat shaped to my liking.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82520&d=1520983679

From here it was pretty easy to reshape the edge beading with a rubber mallet. I will stitch weld this all back into place later.
I made a cardboard template from my first side and was able to transfer that same shape to the other side and the other seat.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82521&d=1520983687

The difference is subtle but I'm very pleased with the change.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82522&d=1520983699

THANKS GUMBALL!

-Steve

[wareaglescott]

Innovative work on the seats Steve. Nicely done. Are you getting custom covers made or what is your plan there?

[Straversi]

Innovative work on the seats Steve. Nicely done. Are you getting custom covers made or what is your plan there?

Thanks Scott. Yes, I'm working on a few different ideas for the seats. Ive been to a couple upholstery shops learning the language and trying to sort out all that I don't know. Getting closer.
-Steve

[broku518]

Hi Steve,
Stupid question, what is HSRF? I am guessing some super duper glue :) Got more info?
I am getting the same vent from **********.

Thanks,
Martin

[Straversi]

Hi Steve,
Stupid question, what is HSRF? I am guessing some super duper glue :) Got more info?
I am getting the same vent from **********.

Thanks,
Martin

Not a stupid question. I had to google it myself.
HSRF is High Strength Repair Filler, made by 3M Marine.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Marine-Strength-Repair-Filler/dp/B000XBKL1Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523911881&sr=8-1&keywords=3m+hsrf

It is a 2 part product used in boat repair. So far, I've only used it to bond the studs to the body to mount my louvers and to mount some nut plates in the trunk lid. The EdwardB build thread shows more uses for it.

-Steve

[Straversi]

Checking off a few more projects.

When I had the body on for test fitting I realized that fitting the front splash shields was not something I wanted to do for the first time with a painted body. Since I have foot box vents I decided to install the splash shield with the body off, with cleco's for now.

Edit: I removed the photo. It was pointed out to me that I flipped the left and right splash shields. Oops. Didn't want my photo to lead anyone else down the wrong path.

So, at least I have my vent hoses in place passing through the splash panels. When I get the body in its final position I will trim the outside edges as needed. If I need to add material I'll use larger bulb seal or rivet pieces in place.

While I was working with the vent hose I decided to trim the Finish Line scoops and screen for the front. I trimmed the plastic scoop to fit the back of the body but the screen didn't look right so I reversed the order and shaped the screen first and then trimmed the plastic scoop to fit the trimmed screen.

I bent the outer shape by hand and then used a golf ball, forcing it forward from behind to get the screen to take a more rounded shape.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84007&d=1523550055

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84006&d=1523550045

I followed EdwardB's lead and drilled and tapped my wheels and knock off hubs for the 10-24 x 3/4" set screws to hold the hubs in place. I was a little nervous about this modifications but it was easier that I thought.

I made a spacer ring out of .090 alum to take the place of the lug nut cover.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84179&d=1523912751

Several layers of HD tape to keep the drill motor from gouging the wheel paint. Even with the tape I almost dinged it. My first thought is always, what will this cost me if I screw it up. Fortunately, no harm was done.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84180&d=1523912761

Lots of cutting oil, frequent chip clearing and careful thread cutting.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84178&d=1523912739

I added a bead of construction mastic behind the hub as well. They feel pretty solid.

-Steve

[broku518]

Hi Steve,
This set screw for wheel, what is the spacer ring for? I was doing some shopping for my rear bumper kit and noticed some tap tools there, made me think of this mod :)

Thanks,
Martin

[Straversi]

Hi Steve,
This set screw for wheel, what is the spacer ring for? I was doing some shopping for my rear bumper kit and noticed some tap tools there, made me think of this mod :)

Thanks,
Martin

The .090 spacer simulates the star shaped lug nut cover piece. Without the spacer, the knock off will bottom out on the threaded hub and not get tight enough and the spacing will be off when you reassemble. Probably easier ways to do this but it worked.

-Steve

[broku518]

The .090 spacer simulates the star shaped lug nut cover piece. Without the spacer, the knock off will bottom out on the threaded hub and not get tight enough and the spacing will be off when you reassemble. Probably easier ways to do this but it worked.

-Steve

I see. So I need to drill through both of these? I was thinking that that set screw may just pinch the hub in place.

[Straversi]

I see. So I need to drill through both of these? I was thinking that that set screw may just pinch the hub in place.

I was following the EdwardB thread. He used 3/4" long 10-24 set screws. Those go through the wheel and the hub. I vaguely remember another method someone used where they used a couple of set screws inside each hub and they jammed up against the inside of the wheel. Seemed like a good idea too. Someone else suggested cutting a couple inches of foam pool noodle and putting that between the wheel and the spindle and that would keep the threaded hub from moving. Many ways to skin this cat.

Steve.

[boat737]

CDXXII made up some rings for his, and had a couple left over, which he generously offered up. I went further than his by pinning the ring to the hub mount (he used set screws in the ring against the hub and against the inner cavity of the wheel). I have a friend with a complete machine shop, and he did the precision work for me.

[broku518]

I was following the EdwardB thread. He used 3/4" long 10-24 set screws. Those go through the wheel and the hub. I vaguely remember another method someone used where they used a couple of set screws inside each hub and they jammed up against the inside of the wheel. Seemed like a good idea too. Someone else suggested cutting a couple inches of foam pool noodle and putting that between the wheel and the spindle and that would keep the threaded hub from moving. Many ways to skin this cat.

Steve.

I hear you. I like this forum creativity :) heck, I may put there some treasures or trinkets :)

[Vspeeds]

Steve,

It was great to meet you this weekend at the Huntington Beach Cruise-In and thank you for sharing your build on the forum. I took a ton of pictures of your car. The details in this thread are very useful.

When you visit your brother up here in Elk Grove, give me a call.

Eddie L.

[Straversi]

Steve,

It was great to meet you this weekend at the Huntington Beach Cruise-In and thank you for sharing your build on the forum. I took a ton of pictures of your car. The details in this thread are very useful.

When you visit your brother up here in Elk Grove, give me a call.

Eddie L.

Eddie,
Thanks, I had a great time meeting you and a bunch of other forum members at the show. I will definitely give you a call next trip up north. Love to see that 289 of yours.
-Steve

[Straversi]

So I crossed another milestone moment off the list two Fridays ago. The body is officially off to paint!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85312&d=1525225276

Funny thing happened on the way...
The sticker on the U-Haul trailer fender that says 55 MPH is more than just a suggestion, as pointed out to me by a humorless CHP officer. Not on the fender but equally important is that trailers are not allowed in the express lane. Who knew? Should have been common sense but I guess I was preoccupied driving out to Temecula to the Bat Cave of Jeff Miller.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85313&d=1525225296

The man did more in 5 hours with that body than I could have done in weeks. Happy to have left it in very capable hands.

Headed home in the right hand lane going fifty-freekin-five!

Once the body was gone I was able to start finishing off some projects that have been underway for months.

First off was the dash. I cut the competition dash and made the glove box months ago, but I've left them uncovered until I knew for sure I wouldn't have to trim anything for the body install. Dash was fine so I got out the 1/8" Landau foam and the DAP Weldwood HHR contact adhesive.

I did the glove box first with just the leather and no foam. I used wax paper to keep my leather away from the glove box until I was sure I was aligned correctly because this stuff is instant grab.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85236&d=1525151402

On to the dash itself. Foam first.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85237&d=1525151414

Leather: First I found the area of my hide that had no nicks or blemishes and I cut the piece to fit the dash with plenty to spare. I have a large piece of stiff cardboard that covers my work bench. I duct taped the leather to the cardboard so the cardboard had a (slight) bow. Cardboard being the bow and leather being the string. Then I weighted the ends and effectively put a little stretch on the leather. When I applied the contact cement, the leather relaxed a little and laid flat with no wrinkles. When the glue was tacky, I dropped the dash on to the leather, then untaped the ends and folded them up around the curved ends of the dash.

10 razor blades and a thousand pie-cuts later....

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85238&d=1525151429

Super pleased with how this turned out. I had cut a test panel way back when, to determine how much to oversize the holes so my gauges fit in snug, once the leather and foam was in place. Happy to learn my test was correct and the gauges fit in tight.

More to come.
-Steve

[Straversi]

This is an idea I've been playing with since day one. I wanted to cover the top of the transmission tunnel in leather to match the dash. I also wanted to find a way to transition from the carpet to the leather with some kind of a metal angle. Don't ask me why. What others have done looks great, but this is one of those ideas that my brain would not let go of.

I found this extruded aluminum door threshold at Home Depot and it gave me an idea.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85317&d=1525228843

This is the proof of concept model. Cut the extrusion lengthwise removing the center section. Nutserts and countersunk screws to attach the extrusions to the transmission tunnel 3/4" tubes. extrusions secure a .063 center piece covered in foam and leather. The foam does not go to the edge of the cover so the leather fits flush with the top of the extrusion. Sounds easy enough.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85226&d=1525148769

I took the original cover and cut it to fit flat against the top of the framework. This is held down with nutsets and screws and a little silicon to seal it up, but still be removable. There is a gap between the sealing cover and the leather covered panel because of the shape of the extrusion. I had some 1/8"rubber sheet that I cut to fit. This fills the gap, insulates and makes everything feel solid.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85320&d=1525228886

After dozens of iterations with carpet and leather and foam, I got the pieces to fit the way I wanted and the look I was after. I believe I will powder coat the aluminum pieces black, but I'll wait until I get the entire interior done before I make that decision.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85240&d=1525151462

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85354&d=1525366386

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85353&d=1525366374

The transmission is offset to passenger side which really became obvious when I put two aluminum extrusion on the edge of the tunnel. I made a 3/8" spacer to move my shift lever over to center so it looked better.

Happy with the end result. Not for everyone but it was something I have been playing with for a long time and I like how it looks.

-Steve

[wareaglescott]

Looks nice Steve. I love the unique innovation!!

[Boydster]

Wow, this looks really nice. Good work.

[Straversi]

Thank you Scott and Boyd.
-Steve

[Straversi]

Another project that has been in the works for a while is my radiator surround aluminum. My FFR side pieces fit poorly (I'm sure due to my installation of the radiator) and I was never really happy with the look of the bottom front piece.

With the body on for test fitting, I added some cardboard and tape to the stock panels and tried to come up with a single piece that came all the way forward and covered the quick jack bolts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82817&d=1521481093

I couldn't do what I wanted with a single straight piece but figured I could curve the side pieces slightly and they would clear the bolts. Gentle bend over my knee.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84190&d=1523912905

Fabricated the lower angles of the side pieces separately from the sides and attached with rivets. These keep the curve in place.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84186&d=1523912843

I bent these in my vice with a mallet.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84185&d=1523912829

to be continued...

[Straversi]

Mostly finished sides and front pieces with bead punch openings for my oil cooler lines.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84172&d=1523912661

I say mostly finished because after Jeff Miller gently adjusted the front tubes with a wooden block and sledge hammer ("look away", he said) I had to trim/adjust these pieces a bit further.

I had made some cosmetic pieces to cover bend reliefs in the bottom aluminum piece and they turned into good places for nutserts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84187&d=1523912865

I made a couple of steel brackets with nutserts up top and I had 4 mounting locations for my radiator screen.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84188&d=1523912876

99% finished assembly

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84184&d=1523912817

I'm sure I'll have a little more trimming to do when the body goes on for the final time. This will come off to install the body and it goes back together in a certain order with very tight tolerances and little room for my arms and tools, but it will fit.

-Steve

[stevant]

I am no where close to where you are in the build, but are the holes already in the radiator surround for the oil cooler setup? I want to do the same on mine.

[stevant]

Couple more side projects knocked out while I was waiting for parts. I ordered a set of side pipes from Gas-N. I am very satisfied with the look, sound, order process and delivery, just as everyone who buys them seems to be. I liked the FFR pipes but I tend to leave my quite neighborhood very early on weekends. Figured I might as well do what I could.

Here is a comparison of the FFR and Gas-N pipes. Gas-N below with the longer muffler section.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78846&d=1515435938

I also made a radiator screen (direct copy from EdwardB) with stainless mesh from Pegasus Racing and 1/8" x 3/4" aluminum stock from HD. I think I will keep mine in natural finish but I'll determine that later. I'll drill out some of those rivets when I add the mounting brackets.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78847&d=1515435953

I also built a miniature version for my oil cooler. I used 1/2" angled aluminum for the horizontal legs of the frame so I could bolt the screen directly to the cooler mounts. I painted the ends black so they disappear and you only see the screen. Not sure if this will matter when the body goes on.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78848&d=1515435972

Complete set. The large radiator screen is not mounted. I will tackle that when I do the side and front aluminum after first body fitting.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78849&d=1515435986

-Steve

Do you have the aluminum 3/4” edge on both sides of the screening? Is it sandwiched between? Not sure if you did on both sides or just one.

[Straversi]

Do you have the aluminum 3/4” edge on both sides of the screening? Is it sandwiched between? Not sure if you did on both sides or just one.

Yes, the screen is sandwiched between two aluminum frames. The front and back frames are not identical. The overlapped edges are staggered so the corners have some strength.
-Steve

[stevant]

.......and the holes for the oil cooler lines in the panels? Did you make those? That hole looks nice!!!

[Straversi]

.......and the holes for the oil cooler lines in the panels? Did you make those? That hole looks nice!!!

Thanks and yes, I used an Eastwood punch & bead die for those holes.

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-punch-and-bead-dies.html

They also have punch & flair dies that make a similar reinforced hole but with a slightly different look.
-Steve

[stevant]

Thanks!!! What size did you go with?

[Straversi]

Thanks!!! What size did you go with?

For those, I used the 1-1/2” die. They make a 1-1/2” hole. The outer diameter of the bead is 2-1/4”.

I didn’t pass the hose directly through the holes in the side panels. I used a -10AN 90 degree bulkhead fitting so I could get the hoses angled where I need them to go.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-at983310erl
-Steve

[Dave Howard]

For those, I used the 1-1/2” die. They make a 1-1/2” hole. The outer diameter of the bead is 2-1/4”.

I didn’t pass the hose directly through the holes in the side panels. I used a -10AN 90 degree bulkhead fitting so I could get the hoses angled where I need them to go.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-at983310erl
-Steve


Great job Steve. I like what you did with those funky oval openings on either end of the lower rad support. I've attached a picture of my rad protection and oil cooler. Look familiar? The stainless steel mesh is the perfect side for 1/8' rivets. I used a backing ring to hold them in place. I have the braided line plumbed, fitted and running back behind the drivers side engine mount. Capped and terminated, I didn't connect the oil cooler. It's just there for the look.

[Straversi]

Great job Steve. I like what you did with those funky oval openings on either end of the lower rad support. I've attached a picture of my rad protection and oil cooler. Look familiar? The stainless steel mesh is the perfect side for 1/8' rivets. I used a backing ring to hold them in place. I have the braided line plumbed, fitted and running back behind the drivers side engine mount. Capped and terminated, I didn't connect the oil cooler. It's just there for the look.

Thanks Dave,
This is the fill panel. Tin snips, vice and mallet. Trimmed it carefully so it wouldn't rub the radiator anywhere.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85532&d=1525800045

So, you built your screen with a frame just on the front side and rivet backing rings on the back? I was thinking about that but was worried it would need more strength. All it has to do is deflect bugs and pebbles, right? Keep it simple. Mine is probably overbuilt.

I was warned that a functioning oil cooler was a PITA. Yep, it sure was.

Like your color combo.
-Steve

[Straversi]

This is a small modification I made to add some airflow into the engine bay. Not original in concept. I think I borrowed the idea from Chris "Gumball", but other than making a mental note, I couldn't recall or find the source. I used my 1" bead punch die and made 4 holes in the lower end of the front splash shields.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85227&d=1525148781

I match drilled the pilot holes and made a cover piece for the other side and sandwiched a piece of the stainless screen left over from my radiator guard. Formed the edges of the cover a bit to wrap the edges of the screen and riveted together.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85229&d=1525148804

Not sure how much airflow it will add but shouldn't hurt. I think I had as many questions about this small mod as any other at the Huntington Beach Cruise-In. It was great that people at the show seemed to notice and comment on every modification.

It was nice to take home the "Best Under Construction" award or as Dave Smith calls it, the "getting a trophy for not finishing your car" award.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85225&d=1525148756

Thread is pretty much caught up now.

Updated photo from the Bat Cave. Look at all that dust that isn't in my garage! Thanks, Jeff and crew.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85566&d=1525901629

-Steve

[Higgybulin]

Gotta love the body guys!!! Nice aluminum work as well!
Higgy

[Straversi]

Thanks Higgy.

-Steve

[Straversi]

Checking more items off the list. I replaced my fuel filter with this unit from Trick Flow, part# TFS-23006 (Thanks Paul). The one I had originally purchased was for a carbureted unit and didn't have enough flow.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86219&d=1527187613

Pretty standard location for this filter allows for easy access.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86220&d=1527187637

While I had the tank dropped for this job I remembered that I had purchased an OEM fuel tank gasket that goes between the tank and the fill pipe. I had read in several threads that it was recommended to replace the kit part with the OEM part# F4ZZ-9072-DA.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86213&d=1527187527

When I removed the kit part it was torn half way through. I did go-cart around with the fill pipe just taped in place so that might have been the reason for the tear, but at least I had the OEM part on hand.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86214&d=1527187539

-Steve

[Straversi]

I ordered 3 yards of carpet from FFR to carpet the trunk. Two yards would do the trick but I added the drop trunk kit and did some sheet metal modifications in the foot boxes, so I wanted some extra.

I decided not to carpet the side walls in the upper level next to the roll bars, since you can't really see them. The entire trunk is covered in Lizard Skin, so I painted the sides and back wall with the Lizard Skin Top Coat. This is a semi-gloss hard coat in a rattle can and it looks good next to the carpet.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85567&d=1525901642

I made my carpet templates from my go-to manila folders and tape. Lots of templates for the trunk. After this, I really appreciated how well the FFR interior carpet pieces fit, right out of the box. It took a while to figure out how to keep all of the edges of the drop trunk from showing any seams.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86216&d=1527187564

I'm not sure if this photo is upside down or if I didn't have enough ventilation for all that glue. Whew!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86217&d=1527187576

Finished Trunk.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86223&d=1527187672

I cut an access flap for the drop battery. I used countersunk screws for the battery access cover and had the edges of the carpet flap seamed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86226&d=1527187714

This sewn type of carpet edging is called "Serging". I called a few upholstery shops who said they could do it but when I arrived, they showed me vinyl edging they could sew on. I was finally directed to a carpet shop and they "Serged" the edges (special machine). I'm going to have them make some floor mats for me later with my left over carpet.

I was going to add Velcro to hold down the flap but it lays down flat on its own so I'll leave it as is.

Finished DS foot box. Since I modified, this foot box, I needed to trim the factory kit carpet a bit, but it all worked out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86222&d=1527187659

I have a switch panel just below my dash. With the carpet installed, I couldn't get the toggles or my battery cut off through far enough to catch threads. Luckily, the carpet trimmed nicely with my wife's grooming shears for her horse. Trimmed about half the length of the carpet away and was able to pull the switches through. This is only in print because the trimming went well and the shears were not damaged.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86215&d=1527187550

All for now.

-Steve

[Yama-Bro]

Good job on the trunk!

[Straversi]

Good job on the trunk!

Thanks, the original plan was to have the access panels for the fuel pump and sender exposed. After I invested that much time into the carpet I riveted the panels shut and figured I'd make the carpet look nice and drop the tank if I have to come back for repairs.

-Steve

[Mark Eaton]

Looks good Steve and thanks for the info on "Serging", I'll remember to refer back to this when I'm doing my carpet :)

[Straversi]

Lots of small projects in progress as I get close to the finish line.

I mounted a driveline hoop from Metco. Luckily they had one in stock so I didn't have to wait for them to process a batch. Simple and straight forward installation.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=87933&d=1530208068

I drilled the mounting holes for the roll bar in the two vertical legs. I should have done this before I carpeted the trunk but not a big deal. Really happy that I did it before the body went on, though.

I'm using the Tangent blind attachment for the diagonal leg. I installed the two pieces in the hoop and diagonal leg.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=87821&d=1530118724

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=87820&d=1530118713

The instructions made sense once I had the pieces in my hands, but I still had to read them several times. What, read instructions? Strange, but I'd recommend it if you are using this little gizmo. I had to do a little grinding and polishing on the diagonal connection on the trunk floor and on the diagonal roll bar tube to get this assembly to sit flush and smooth. You can't drill the lower connection for the diagonal tube until after the roll bar assembly is installed with the body on. Fortunately, this connection will be easy to reach.

Had a setback with my leather. The shop making my seat covers (Second upholstery shop, but that's a story for later) was concerned that the leather I bought for my dash and transmission cover was not automotive grade. He was not 100% certain but he was worried that it was furniture grade and that it might fade or discolor prematurely. I looked through my paperwork and although my order form said "automotive", I couldn't find anything on my received materials list that confirmed it. I bought it online so after several phone calls through various brokers with no answers, I punted and decided to replace.

The tough part was pealing off the leather. It came off easy, but man that was a lot of time and effort wasted. Tragic!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=87822&d=1530118738

The good news is that the new leather I bought is much nicer, it will exactly match my seats and I did a little better job on the installation the second time around.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=87923&d=1530207207

Finally finished my glove box door and hinges too.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=87926&d=1530207219

Getting close...

-Steve

[Straversi]

Meanwhile, back at the Bat Cave...

A few weeks ago, basking in the Temecula sun in primer.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86863&d=1528325265

Add a little sealer and white for the stripes.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=87931&d=1530207243

Mask off those stripes. Even looks good in white and lime green.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=87932&d=1530207252

Spectra Blue.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88064&d=1530317979

Stripes unmasked.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88065&d=1530317993

And now with clear.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88066&d=1530318004

I wanted blue and white from the beginning. I strayed many times over the course of the build, but eventually came back to where I started. This is the car I see in my head when think about a Cobra. I am so pleased with the results.

Thank you Jeff Miller! Beautiful work. Ahead of Schedule! What else can I say.

-Steve

[Higgybulin]

Nothing else needs to be said!!!! CLASSIC!!!
Higgy

[Boydster]

Beautiful.

[Straversi]

I received my kit from FFR 2 years plus a few days ago. I never set a timetable or deadline but I figured 2 years would be about right.

Happy to be making the final turn for the home stretch. The painted body is mounted!

Finally able to install the gauges and tidy up the wiring for final installation of the dash.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89096&d=1532031302

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89097&d=1532031311

I secured a few zip tie blocks to the back of the dash with HD double stick tape to help secure the wiring bundles. I noticed my toggle switches wanted to twist a little, so I added a few more blocks next to the switches to keep them aligned.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89098&d=1532031323

Everything neatly secured.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89099&d=1532031338

With the wiring completed and the driver's side foot box finally buttoned up, it was off to Jeff Miller to reunite the chassis and body.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89101&d=1532031357

Hopefully I get some time this weekend to start checking off the last few boxes.

-Steve

[cnutting]

Congratulations! That final turn onto the home stretch is a great feeling. Very clean work, that is going to be an amazing car!

[Straversi]

Working my way through my punch list of projects.

Tail lights and gas cap installed. I added the locking gas cap assembly in a previous post.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89309&d=1532369135

Installed the rear splash panels. These needed minor trimming. The differences in the left and right side of the body start to show up when you trim these panels. Quite different from left to right.

I had bonded studs to the body per EdwardB in a previous post. Like the way those clean up the splash guard installation.

I will be adding more bed-liner to the body but I'm going to leave the splash panels raw, at least for now.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89310&d=1532369170


I fabricated the sealing panels to close up the gaps in the front of the rear wheel wells.

Driver side gap is larger than the passenger side.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89308&d=1532369123

I bent the upper/outer edge forward so the bulb seal would stay tight to the body.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89307&d=1532369113

Completed driver's side panel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89326&d=1532370529


I installed the last couple pieces of FFR aluminum; the door sill trim pieces. One more cardboard box in the trash!

The driver's side requires only minor trimming. Passenger side took a bit more work with the tin snips.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89318&d=1532369287
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89319&d=1532369297


More to come


-Steve

[wareaglescott]

Getting close now Steve. The color really looks great. Cant wait to see you finish it up.

[shark92651]

I love these threads when people are nearing the finish line. Looking awesome!

[DavidW]

I might have missed it but did you get your seats upholstered. I did the same mod to the Kirkey seats but the quote from the upholsterer made me put them on the shelf.

[Straversi]

I might have missed it but did you get your seats upholstered. I did the same mod to the Kirkey seats but the quote from the upholsterer made me put them on the shelf.
I'm getting them done now. The first upholstery shop had them for six weeks and never even gave me an estimate. Kept telling me "his guy" needed to look them over and he'd let me know. After a month of ducking my calls, he admitted "his guy" quit and I should just come pick them up. Second shop said he'd work on these in between his bigger jobs and he'd treat me right. Honestly don't know what they are going to cost. I visited more than a dozen shops. It's difficult to get good shops to do small jobs. The two things I didn't do myself are the seats and paint. Fortunately, the paint was a great experience.
-Steve

[Yama-Bro]

Looking great. The paint is excellent!

[Straversi]

Work continues: I added the edged carpet pieces to the door sills. Loved how this turned out. Thanks to Paul (EdwardB) for the instructions on which edges to have trimmed. I have photos in a previous post.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89376&d=1532451825

With the carpet down, I started to trim and fit the aluminum sill pieces I ordered from Dark Water Customs. The piece on the right has been shaped to fit. The piece on the left has not been touched, yet. The passenger side eventually got similar but not exact trimming.

I put a 50 grit belt on my table top belt sander. Makes a lot of noise and heat but its allows you to shape pieces like this quickly without trying to use a jig saw. More trimming and fitting than I had imagined but I like the end product.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89426&d=1532542947

Finished product here. Not difficult, but high pucker factor manipulating this piece around and then drilling a painted body. Those are reflections in the door, not scratches. Glad it's done.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89427&d=1532542965

While I was at it, I replaced the stacked washers in the door latch with a thick wall aluminum spacer from McMaster 3/4" OD, 5/16" ID, 5/8" long #92510A801. 5/8" long was perfect for the driver's side. I had to sand down the passenger side about 3/32". That part number is a reference only since I doubt any two cars will have the same latch spacing. Just didn't like the look of all those washers.

Roll bar bracket/High seat belt mount

Finally got to mount one of my favorite projects. I was planning to use the Breeze Roll bar so I could weld in the cross tube to mount my shoulder belts higher (extra large torso). Unfortunately, I'm too tall for the lower profile Breeze roll bar.

Plan B was to use the taller FFR roll bar and add a bolt-on cross bar. Apparently a vendor who used to make them stopped. I found a couple options but didn't like them so I thought about making one.

I had reconnected with a friend from college and on a Scuba Diving trip and I mentioned the MK-IV. He said, well, you know I have a CNC milling machine in my garage so if need any parts made, let me know. The wheels started turning! I downloaded a 10 day free trial of Turbo-Cad for MAC and drew up an assembly that I thought would work. Sent it to my friend and he manipulated it into machine code and started cutting.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=87819&d=1530118702

Everyone has a CNC milling machine right? I seriously want one now.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=87823&d=1530118748

End caps machined, edges tumbled, bead blasted, clear anodized and mounted.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89314&d=1532369238

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89313&d=1532369210

Managed to get the Mike Everson Replicarparts roll bar grommets and trim pieces mounted as well. I powder coated the passenger seat belt grommets satin black. They looked odd shinny and polished with only the one set.

I'm pleased with how this assembly turned out but I enjoyed the process even more. I wasn't planning to learn Turbo Cad, I wasn't planning to have any parts machined, I didn't know that a friend of over 30 years happened to have a CNC mill. Interesting things happen when you mention that you are building a car in your garage!

-Steve

[DavidW]

I'm getting them done now. The first upholstery shop had them for six weeks and never even gave me an estimate. Kept telling me "his guy" needed to look them over and he'd let me know. After a month of ducking my calls, he admitted "his guy" quit and I should just come pick them up. Second shop said he'd work on these in between his bigger jobs and he'd treat me right. Honestly don't know what they are going to cost. I visited more than a dozen shops. It's difficult to get good shops to do small jobs. The two things I didn't do myself are the seats and paint. Fortunately, the paint was a great experience.
-Steve

My estimates were between $3100 and $3400, be careful and good luck with your seats.
Nice work on the Dark Water Customs door sill aluminum, it looks awesome! Its a lot of massaging to get those to fit right, I only got finished the DS door and just decided to use the FFR supplied weatherstripping. Your paint sure does shine!

[wareaglescott]

IF this guy has a milling machine in his garage I sure would like to see what else he has in that garage! haha
Spectacular looking piece.

[Straversi]

IF this guy has a milling machine in his garage I sure would like to see what else he has in that garage! haha
Spectacular looking piece.

Thanks David and Scott.
Scott, my buddy built cars in his youth but they are no longer his thing. He’s into sound and electronics. He built the most over the top back yard bar/entertainment area you have ever seen. After he finished my project, he took apart the mill and is setting up a new, larger machine.
-Steve

[Straversi]

A while back I mentioned that I planned to trim the license plate rather than cutting into the license plate light/lens. If I was going to trim the plate I wanted to make a custom license plate frame to cover the trimmed edges.

First I found a car in my office parking lot with one of the new CA black and gold nostalgia plates (not my plate). I trimmed up a manila folder until I got the size and shape I needed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88775&d=1531499624

After I drew the roll bar shoulder harness bracket in CAD (previous posts), I drew up this license plate frame and made a 3-D surfaced file. My friend with the CNC mill suggested I print the frame, rather that try to machine it.

I know nothing about 3-D printing but forum member JDAV steered me to a 3-D print company. I uploaded my CAD file, they reviewed it and said it was suitable for 3-D printing, helped me pick out the appropriate material and gave me an immediate quote, $50. 4 days later I had a finished part in my hand. Mind boggling stuff.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86224&d=1527187686

I made a bracket that would place the plate mounting holes higher. Made it out of 1/8" aluminum so I could tap in threads, 10-32 to mount the bracket to the FFR assembly and 1/4-20 to mount the license plate. Drilled a few 1/2" holes to make it lighter, just because.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=87824&d=1530118760

Finished assembly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89311&d=1532369184


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89312&d=1532369197


The Kleiner mod is easier and cheaper and time proven. I just enjoyed the process of learning something new. I do like how the smaller plate sits in the stripes.

-Steve

[Paul2STL]

Great idea Steve. By the way your car is looking awesome love the color and Jeff's work is just beautiful. You put some really nice touches into your car. Keep up the good work.

[Straversi]

Inching closer...

I added more bed liner inside the wheel wells and nose. Jeff Miller put bed liner where it matters. I added it to the areas where if someone is anal enough to lay on the ground and look up into my wheel wells they will see black and not red with blue overspray. I'm probably the only one who will lay on the ground and look up, so I guess this was just for my own satisfaction.

Rear wheel wells complete with splash guards mounted.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=90868&d=1533662811

Installed the rear bumper and over riders. Nothing to add here except that the front and rear over riders are different. No, it doesn't look good to use one of each. Yep, got it right the second time.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=90870&d=1533662823

Added the Breeze trunk prop rod. I used this one for its simplicity. It doesn't hold the trunk open as far as the other style but it does the trick. Funny how simple decisions you make months before (like where to mount a rear wiring harness clamp) can make a simple installation of a trunk prop into a serious chore. No big deal, done.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=90876&d=1533662945

Lots of work done in this photo. Dash mounted rear view mirror, sun visors, wind wings, Breeze side mirrors, 1/4" OD vacuum tubing filling the top slot in the windshield.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=90871&d=1533662847

In Paul's (EdwardB) thread, page 13, he describes cutting and threading a 10-24 bolt with 10-32 threads to make special bolts with a crown nut head so your bolts will match on the upper hinge with the Breeze mirror and the lower hinge without. I wasn't planning on doing that, but it's one of those things you can't un-see. Long story short, the bolts now match. Thanks Paul, I think. This goes back to laying on the ground looking up into wheel wells I suppose.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=90872&d=1533662872

Louvers installed. I had these powder coated bright silver. I waited on this because I was undecided on polished vs mill. Decided I didn't want polished but they would be difficult to keep clean if left raw. I like how the powder coating turned out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=90873&d=1533662897

I finally reassembled my transmission tunnel cover. I had the aluminum side channels and the switch panel I fabricated powder coated satin black. I left the switch guards aluminum. Done. Now I just need the seats!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=90874&d=1533662910

When I mounted my dash for the final time, I managed to pinch one of the RT turn signal wires. I was able to fix this without pulling the dash but it did require getting my 6' 6" frame under the dash. Start on the passenger side, legs up and over the rear of the car. Hook the right leg on the roll bar and slide into the driver's side foot box. Make sure you have all of your tools and never do this when no one else is home. Also note that this can not be done if the seats are installed. Should have made a video. The exit was worse but the turn signal is fixed.

The list is getting short. Side pipe mounts, front splash panels, foot box vent hoses and scoop, reassemble the radiator aluminum.....


-Steve

[edwardb]

In Paul's (EdwardB) thread, page 13, he describes cutting and threading a 10-24 bolt with 10-32 threads to make special bolts with a crown nut head so your bolts will match on the upper hinge with the Breeze mirror and the lower hinge without. I wasn't planning on doing that, but it's one of those things you can't un-see. Long story short, the bolts now match. Thanks Paul, I think. This goes back to laying on the ground looking up into wheel wells I suppose...

You caught my disease. Sorry about that. :( Everything is looking really great. One suggestion would be to put some layers of undercoat or bedliner on the tire facing side of your splash guards. You'll hear stuff pinging off of them if you don't.

[wareaglescott]

Eagerly anticipating some graduation pictures! I think the powder coated side louvers are great looking. You have quite a few unique touches that are really making this a great looking build!

[Straversi]

Thanks Paul & Scott,
Ha, you two represent my inner conflict pretty well. I have Scott on one shoulder saying “Finish it, go smoke the tires!” and I have Paul whispering in my other ear “You know it might look better IMHO if you hand made some custom bolts...”

All kidding aside, thank you both for the compliments. Always encouraging coming from either of you.
-Steve

[Straversi]

Ventilated seats are in. This should be the last of my one-off projects.

My original plans called for Kirkey vintage low backs for added head and leg room. I did not care for the Kirkey covers so I started to sketch out some ideas. My first sketches (before I even ordered the Mk IV) were based on the GT-40 seats. The racing GT-40 seats covers were stretched over webbing and a frame so the grommets were functional and provided some ventilation.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=91299&d=1534201193

The best feature I ever had on a daily driver was the ventilated seat in an Infinity M-45. That got me thinking...

Quick research discovered that all of the OEM and aftermarket seat ventilating systems required 4"-6" of foam in the base and were way too complex. I looked into dirt-track and off-road and found air blowers for helmets and cool-suits but nothing to attach to a seat. I did find a composite racing seat that had air plenums integrated into the seat. That was the idea but I couldn't use or afford that seat. I came up with a small, low amp, 120 cfm fan and after many iterations with cardboard, came up with a plenum that I could fabricate and attach to the back of the Kirkey seat. It all had to fit in the small void low behind the seat since I was unwilling to give up any head or leg room.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=91300&d=1534201206

I mocked up the assembly (experimented with number and size of holes) and got pretty good airflow so I thought it was worth a shot.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=91290&d=1534199126

The grommets were not compatible with the seat heating pads and I wanted to keep the air plenum simple, so I decided to concentrate the airflow to the lumbar area. Since the you really sink into the Kirkeys I figured if I could get any airflow directed to the small of my back I'd be golden.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=91289&d=1534199114

First thought was to weld the plenum to the back of the seat, but welding the .040 plenum to the much thicker seat was challenging, so I riveted the plenum to the seat with flush rivets and then sealed it up with several layers of lizard skin.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=91285&d=1534199066

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=91302&d=1534202144

I drilled 12 holes in the back of the seat. The trick would be to get an upholstery shop to make seat covers with grommets that would line up with my holes and actually direct and not block the airflow.

To be continued...

[Straversi]

I found a great upholsterer and he had some great ideas on how to pull it off. The difficult part for him was not the holes or grommets, but the fact that I needed to be able to bolt my seats directly to the floor and to the back of the cockpit. His cushions needed to have the grommets, seat heat pads and be at least partially removable. Simple, right?

Mounting holes and ventilating holes in the seat.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=91286&d=1534199078

I also made a small bracket for the seat heater switches. I wanted to hide the more modern looking switches and they fit under the seat perfectly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82824&d=1521481207

Fan and wiring attached.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=91296&d=1534199257

Finished product.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=91295&d=1534199245

Installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=91294&d=1534199198

The grommets in the lumbar are functional. The grommets in the base of the seat are just cosmetic but add symmetry.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=91293&d=1534199187

So, was it worth it? I'll let you know after the first long trip up I-5. I like the look if nothing else.

-Steve

[Jdav]

That’s pretty cool. I love the ingenuity

[Higgybulin]

WOW!! That's one of the best mods I have seen, truly!!! Seat covers are stellar! Definitely look forward to the update on how those work.
Higgy

[DavidW]

Seats look awesome!

[cv2065]

Love the seats!! :cool:

[Paul2STL]

Love the mod, functional and pretty cool.

[Straversi]

Thanks for the encouraging comments. Had a fun time with this project. Lots of time experimenting and building mock ups but I enjoy that kind of tinkering. The fans were cheap and I liked the look of the grommets, so if it didn't work I was OK with it, but it all came together better than I expected. My upholsterer added a mesh material between the grommets and foam. It restricts the flow a little but it looks good. Think I'll leave it in place and see how it goes.

Now, on to the last bits and pieces. Nothing left to fabricate but my door panels and I'm not doing anything unusual there.
-Steve

[Straversi]

Working my way forward.

I installed my Gas-N Pipes. One wedge on the passenger side and two on the driver's side to get them even and parallel. Had to play with the mounting bolt diameter and the flange holes to get them straight up/down.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=91764&d=1534962024


I used 5/16" nut inserts in the 2" tube rather than the long bolts that go all the way through (EdwardB method). I had to add a thick washer behind the inboard most mount and a longer bolt and spacer on the outermost mount (to the pipe itself), otherwise the thick rubber mount in the middle would have needed to be squished to half its thickness. That didn't seem right. Please let me know if I'm missing something here or if some adjustment with the mounts is common.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=91763&d=1534962009

First photo also shows my front splash shields installed. I trimmed them before final installation of the body, and as expected, needed to go back and trim a bit more after the body was in it's final position. I like the look of aluminum panels. If the pinging rocks annoy me I'll add a few layers of my bed liner. I have plenty left.

Here's a little tip; if you don't use the entire can of bed liner, wipe every drop off of the lid and out of the groove in the can. That stuff seals tighter than (insert your own joke). Well, it seals tight. I had to cut open the can and pour the remaining product into some fresh quart cans I had left over from a house project.

Front Scoops:
My front body mount brackets interfered with the duct scoops for the foot box vents. If you are mounting the screens only, I don't think there would be a problem. For the scoops to fit, some grinding needed to be done.

The green line shows about how much needed to come off (Makita angle grinder).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=91759&d=1534961956

Hard to get a good photo in this area but this is the bracket after it was trimmed a bit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=91762&d=1534961992

Scoop in place. I'll need to go back and fix the paint on the bracket. I want to test fit my over riders and trim the thicker Finish-Line mounting bolt sleeves before I get these scoops mounted for good.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=91761&d=1534961980

The 3/4" Finish-Line stainless mounting bolt sleeves are a little dull. I rigged up a quick polishing station with a long 5/16" masonry drill bit I had. The teeth on the end of the bit kept the sleeves from sliding off. A few wraps of tape kept the sleeves from wobbling.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=90864&d=1533662766

I spun the tubes on the drill press and wet sanded progressively with 200, 400, 800, 1000 and 1500 grit paper on a foam block and then finished with a polishing wheel and compound on my hand drill. Not Dave Hodgkins level of polishing, but it turned out pretty good.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=90866&d=1533662798

As I get to the final stages I have to plan my next moves more carefully because each item added reduces the space available to install the next piece.

-Steve

[Higgybulin]

Well done!! Are the scoops from Breeze as well?
Higgy

[Straversi]

Well done!! Are the scoops from Breeze as well?
Higgy

Thanks Higgy,
The scoops are from Finish Line Accessories. They also supply the hose and the foot box vents. While we are at it, the body mount bolt sleeves are from Finish Line as well. I mistakenly identified them as a Breeze product. Can't even remember where the money went at this point.

-Steve

[broku518]

Hi Steve, what a great looking car!

Question - can you please share the link for the trunk support mod? I am getting tired of holding the trunk and loading my groceries at the same time :)

Thanks,
Martin

[Straversi]

Hi Steve, what a great looking car!

Question - can you please share the link for the trunk support mod? I am getting tired of holding the trunk and loading my groceries at the same time :)

Thanks,
Martin

This product is from Breeze Automotive. The instructions say to drill the hole on the driver's side but since I have the drop trunk it was easier to install it on the other side.

https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/trunk-prop-rod-kit-stainless-steel-30-long/


You won't be able to keep up with those growing boys much longer if you are getting groceries in a MKIV trunk, but I like your style.

-Steve

[broku518]

This product is from Breeze Automotive. The instructions say to drill the hole on the driver's side but since I have the drop trunk it was easier to install it on the other side.

https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/trunk-prop-rod-kit-stainless-steel-30-long/


You won't be able to keep up with those growing boys much longer if you are getting groceries in a MKIV trunk, but I like your style.

-Steve

Thanks Steve! This trunk mod is a must have. It may take couple trips to grocery store, but I am fine with that :cool:

Thanks,
Martin

[Straversi]

Last few items.

I installed my front Over Riders. The instructions say to match the angle of the over riders with the front opening. The front opening is a very odd shape so it is difficult to pick a reference point to match. I taped a stick to the front, centered on my stripes and went with that.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=92205&d=1535584102

You can see that I added a few washers between the over rider bracket and the bolt sleeve to get the angle I wanted. I cut the Finish Line bolt sleeves that I mentioned in a previous post so that the upper sleeves were just that much longer than the bottom sleeves, eliminating the washers.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=92206&d=1535584118

The inside of the overriders were pretty stained and scratched.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=92214&d=1535584891

You can't see them on the rear but they are noticeable on the front. They clean up pretty good with a flap wheel and Dremmel polisher. I added a stainless crown nut and called this project done.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=92609&d=1536082755

I bought the front bumper hoop. I clamped it in place but it wasn't really working for me. One of the problems I had with this is that my work space is narrow. It has gotten smaller as my wife is slowly reclaiming some space. I can't get far enough away on either side to get a real good perspective. When I get it off the jack stands and move it outside I'll reevaluate the front hoop.


Intake brace

The last project on the list that required the car to be up on jack stands was fabricating a brace for the intake filter and aluminum air guard.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=92193&d=1535583931

I might have done this differently if I had done this earlier but I wanted to get this done without removing any existing components. I put a nut insert in the x-frame to hold the odd shaped brace and another in the brace to attach the air filter guard.

Assembly from underneath. Getting very tight in here.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=92195&d=1535583960

When I reassembled the intake tubes and hoses I took a forum member's tip and added a little hair spray between the tubes and the hoses. Something I never would have thought of. Feels pretty solid but there is enough give with multiple silicon hose connections that the moving engine and solid frame should be OK.

-Steve

[Straversi]

Door Panels

I cut my door panels from 3/16" Masonite and covered in the same foam and leather I used on the dash.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=92253&d=1535650415

The upholstery shop that did my seats stitched the elastic into the pocket and stapled and glued the pocket and back panel in place. I used the same 3M Dual Lock (industial Velcro) as shown in the EdwardB thread.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=92248&d=1535650154

Panel installed. Added a strip of 5/8" D shaped weather stripping to the door as well. Also pulled from EdwardB.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=92602&d=1536082596

Since my iPhone battery is usually near 10% charged I always have it plugged in when I'm driving. Problem is, I hate the look of chords and cables. I decided to keep the USB charger/cigarette lighter mounted under my dash in the brace but I added a second USB charger above the brace. I bought two 6' USB/Lightning cables and ran those behind my dash and brought them out to the ends of the dash.

I drilled holes in my doors just below the top hinge with the plan of exiting out the door inside my door panel pocket. One of the reasons I made my own door panels, rather than ordering them was that I wasn't sure how this was going to work. I was able to fish a lead wire through both doors but I was not able to pull the cables through both doors to the same location.

I was able to pull the cable on the driver's door as shown below but I had to pull the cable on the passenger door above the interior door structure. The passenger side cable came out where the green dot is in the photo below. It worked out because they both came out inside my pockets. I guess there is just enough difference in the two doors that I was not able to pull the cables the same way.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=92603&d=1536082609


The plan is to keep the phone in the door pocket and plugged into the cable so everything is hidden.

In case I'm using the map App and want access to the phone, I found this small magnetic phone mount. The small end has an adhesive that I stuck to the bottom of my door hinge. The larger end swivels on the ball and secures the phone with a magnet.

Phone mount installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=92607&d=1536082733

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=92606&d=1536082723

It stays in place when I open and close the door.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=92605&d=1536082714

Happy with how this turned out.

Getting really close now.
-Steve

[wareaglescott]

Genius plan to get the charging cable into the door. I ride around with mine in that pocket all the time and like you could certainly use some charging! Every time I come back to this thread there is another spectacular innovation!

[Straversi]

Genius plan to get the charging cable into the door. I ride around with mine in that pocket all the time and like you could certainly use some charging! Every time I come back to this thread there is another spectacular innovation!

Scott,
Thanks for the compliment, but you can't use the word "genius" describing a plan that involved drilling holes in a painted door. "Idiotic plan that fortunately worked out" is closer to reality, but I'll take the compliment anyway.

Hope to be driving outside of my neighborhood soon.

-Steve

[Straversi]

Last items:

Since I'm stuck waiting for my CHP VIN inspection appointment, I'm finishing up those last few items I was planning to do later.


A while back, I trimmed my Wilwood brake and clutch pedals to get more space between pedals. I never liked the look of the trimmed pedals (too small) and the brake and gas were still a bit close. I scrapped the pedals and ordered more from Wilwood. Fortunately they are only $8.50 each.

To get the maximum room between the brake and gas, I trimmed the small lobes off of the Wilwood brake pedal arm. I picked up another 1/4" of space, and it makes a noticeable difference. I have the clutch pedal marked in the photo but did not trim it. Clutch placement is fine as is.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=90862&d=1533662740

With trimmed pedals installed... I also bought a pair of Puma Drift Cat 5 driving shoes online. They make a huge difference. I have plenty of room for my size 13's now.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=92251&d=1535650183

I made some patterns for floor matts and took my extra carpet to the carpet remnant shop I had used before.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=92600&d=1536082576

They glued a non-skid backing material to the carpet and "surged" the edges with yarn. They had 3 pieces finished in a few hours for $90. I was expecting it to cost a lot more. I installed the carpet clips and snaps that "Gumball" Chris told me about. Very happy with the results.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=92601&d=1536082586

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=92610&d=1536082767

I reinstalled the radiator aluminum and the oil cooler and finally installed the Tri-Bar headlights.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=93834&d=1537383633

Lastly, I made an aluminum insert for the steering wheel with a routed center section for a small Cobra emblem from **********. Not meant to offend FFR in any way but just liked the look of the steering wheel finished with this emblem.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=92210&d=1535584183

Assembly complete...

-Steve

[Straversi]

I've run so many laps around my neighborhood that I was afraid I was going to annoy someone enough to call in a noise complaint. Time to take a chance with the non-registered car and get out on city streets and take this baby out of second gear. I pulled out of the neighborhood Sunday afternoon and stretched my driving radius out a few miles. Within a quarter mile I passed a cop at an intersection. Pretty hard to look inconspicuous in a roadster that screams "look at me", but he never looked up from his computer. Ok, time to open it up a bit. Wow! Lack of registration kept me very restrained, but... Wow! What a blast.

I found a spot for a few photos and then headed back to the barn, but here are a few photos of 8901 in sunlight.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=93835&d=1537383647

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=93831&d=1537383594

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=93828&d=1537383563

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=93827&d=1537383450

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=93816&d=1537383198

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=93812&d=1537383155

When I get through the California registration process I'll close this out with a formal graduation thread and summary but for now,
I'm very happy to be in the driver's seat instead of under the car on jack stands. As I have said from the beginning of this adventure, what more could a guy want!

-Steve

[shark92651]

Congratulations, looking awesome Steve!

[cv2065]

Congrats Steve. Seemed like I was reading your last few posts in warp speed..excited for your finish. Looks great!! I'm definitely going to think about your iphone mod. Have to get something going there as well.

[mburger]

Awesome.

[boat737]

Very Good Steve.

We'll have to meet up at Ruby's. I'm almost done. I've been saying I have a week to go for three months now. It's close. Maybe this weekend, who knows.

[Mark Eaton]

Awesome Steve, It really looks good!

[stevencj67]

Outstanding car. The mods you made were great, although I wonder if I could accomplish the same outcomes. :-) What an inspiration. Love the color btw.

[wareaglescott]

Congrats on a great build Steve. Really enjoyed following this one from start to finish. You really did a spectacular job. Wishing you many happy miles. Keep updating us on the car periodically.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Fantastic job Steve!

Enjoy it :cool:

Jeff

[stevant]

Great Job Steve.......... always enjoy the drive!!!

[CVOBill]

Looks great Steve.

[Higgybulin]

Loved all the mods you did, car looks fabulous! ENJOY!!!!

[Straversi]

Thanks for all of the kind words. The guidance and well wishes I have received from all you forum members along the way has meant a great deal to me. Hopefully I will get a chance to meet more of you out on the road.

-Steve

[WIS89]

Steve-

My most sincere congratulations!! She turned out beautifully! There are so many details that you added that make a huge difference.

Well done, and I wish you nothing but success and enjoyment with her! Beautiful car!!

Regards,

Steve

[Duck62]

Very nice. I am getting some great ideas!

[Straversi]

Congrats on a great build Steve. Really enjoyed following this one from start to finish. You really did a spectacular job. Wishing you many happy miles. Keep updating us on the car periodically.

Scott,
We received our sequential kits about a month apart and even though the major components were the same, you managed to get yours on the road a year and a half sooner. What that meant to me was that you asked, answered and documented just about every question I had before I got there. Thanks for paving the way.

-Steve