Rivet Spacing

[Railroad]

Not having my kit yet, I was wondering how you guys determine the rivet spacing on your panels.
I can see scaling rivets per inch or dividing the given space by a number of rivets. Seems like there should be a quick and easy method, I am not hitting on.
While on the subject of rivets, any of you completed car owners, want to unload your clecos and pliers? They are not expensive, but not many uses, unless you do a lot of sheet metal work. I would be interested in procuring any available.
Thanks,

[GoDadGo]

Follow the rivet schedule and guide that comes with the kit and you won't go wrong.
Keep them neat and straight and a professional look you will have in the end.
Sorry, but I LOVE MY CLECOS and plan to keep them.

[luvaz]

Railroad,
It's a been over ten years for me since my roadster build, but I recall using a roll of masking tape (IIRC it was 1" wide, maybe 3/4").

I simply drilled holes evenly spaced (every 2" or so) AROUND the outer circumference of the roll of tape.

Then, simply unroll some tape and as you lay it on the aluminum you'll have a drilling pattern already laid out!

HTH,
Will

[wareaglescott]

There is am aluminum template that comes in the kit. Panel to panel is every 2" I believe and panel to frame is every 3".

[Ray]

Not having my kit yet, I was wondering how you guys determine the rivet spacing on your panels.
I can see scaling rivets per inch or dividing the given space by a number of rivets. Seems like there should be a quick and easy method, I am not hitting on.
While on the subject of rivets, any of you completed car owners, want to unload your clecos and pliers? They are not expensive, but not many uses, unless you do a lot of sheet metal work. I would be interested in procuring any available.
Thanks,

1-inch side x 24-inch long piece of elastic band. Marked every inch with a permanent marker. Cleco/clamp etc. the band down where you want the first rivet to be and stretch the band. The spacing adjusts automatically for you.

Ray

[phileas_fogg]

There is am aluminum template that comes in the kit. Panel to panel is every 2" I believe and panel to frame is every 3".

There is a template, and it's often quite useful. However, I often "fudged" the spacing to even things out over a panel. If the panel was short enough, I fudged by eye. If not, I used a tape measure and long division.

One of the smartest solutions I've hear of to this problem is to use a length of elastic. Make marks 1 1/2" apart, stretch the elastic so that it looks right, and mark the panels accordingly.


John

EDIT: Doggone it; looks like Ray beat me to the punch while I was still typing!

[2FAST4U]

I did all mine with 2" spacing

[Jazzman]

Did mine entirely with the FFR Aluminum template that came with the car. Worked great. To quote an old mentor of mine, "Don't make a project out of it"! FFR's simple solution works great.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Did mine entirely with the FFR Aluminum template that came with the car. Worked great....}

Yep. I've been using the same one for years but here's a tip----that aluminum plate really disappears when you lay it down among the other uncoated panels. If you paint a couple of stripes on it you'll save save yourself a lot of frustration and saying "Where the heck did that thing go?" ;)

Jeff

[mikeinatlanta]

Been using one of these since long before FFR existed.
59104

[AC Bill]

Huh..no FFR rivet template back when I built my roadster..They're making it to easy for you new builders.

I have a pretty good eye for distances, and just drilled them all by eye. I spot checked every now and again with a tape measure, and they were just as good as if I had measured them.

[ckrueger]

Been using one of these since long before FFR existed.
59104

Me too. Works great and pretty cheap. You always have consistent spacing for us anal retentive guys. :)

[Railroad]

Been using one of these since long before FFR existed.
59104

I like that! Running short on time this morn, will google later. Thanks for the tips.

[Timb]

1-inch side x 24-inch long piece of elastic band. Marked every inch with a permanent marker. Cleco/clamp etc. the band down where you want the first rivet to be and stretch the band. The spacing adjusts automatically for you.

Ray

X2 and old pair of briefs and a sharpy. 1" spacing in one side and 1.5" on the other
59115

[dallas_]

I recall using a roll of masking tape.

I simply drilled holes evenly spaced (every 2" or so) AROUND the outer circumference of the roll of tape.

Then, simply unroll some tape and as you lay it on the aluminum you'll have a drilling pattern already laid out!


That's what I did also.
Just keep in mind every rivet in the cockpit will be covered up so don't go crazy obsessive over the spacing. :)

[Gumball]

Expanding rivet spacers are available at lots of aircraft supply houses - I bought mine from Aircraft Spruce.

[AC Bill]

I recall using a roll of masking tape (IIRC it was 1" wide, maybe 3/4"). I simply drilled holes evenly spaced (every 2" or so) AROUND the outer circumference of the roll of tape. Then, simply unroll some tape and as you lay it on the aluminum you'll have a drilling pattern already laid out!l

As you use tape, and get further down on the roll of tape, weren't the holes getting closer, and closer together?

[dallas_]

As you use tape, and get further down on the roll of tape, weren't the holes getting closer, and closer together?

Yes, but only fractionally. A typical roll of tape only has about an inch of tape, so the effect is negligible. You can't tell by looking.
Another advantage to the tape method is the simplicity and the ease of use.
Again, the vast majority of rivets are covered up anyway.

[Hottrodder427]

Just do it, lol don't worry about it. Use the template threat us newbies get, I promise before you are done the rivet placement is the least of your problems in a build. But it is an awesome experience!! I have loved every minute of it.

[Railroad]

Changing subjects a little, will 100 clecos be enough?

[KDubU]

Yes 100 will be more than enough.

[wareaglescott]

Changing subjects a little, will 100 clecos be enough?

I bought 50. I had them all in use at some points but it was never where I had to have more. They hold so good I could steal some from other areas and put in new holes in the area I was working if needed.

[Bob Cowan]

There's an excellent book still available written by Carroll Smith called, "Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners' and Plumbing Handbook". I don't have the book in front of me. But IIRC, the correct spacing is 2-4 x the width of the rivet head for structural joints - like foot boxes. For no-structural joints - like trunk floor and side - you can extend that out a little further.

I used a simple drawing compass to mark the distance; it works well, and I already owned it. Then a small spring loaded punch. Use a #30 drill bit, and dip it in cutting oil often. I also bought a drill bit sharpener, and used it often. That really makes the job easier.

If you decide to use a bead roller, do that before you mark and drill the holes. The bead roller can change the shape of the panel slightly.

I think I bought about 25 or so 1/8 clecos, and that was plenty for me. I also bought a few 3/16" clecos, and they did come in handy once in a while. Not truly necessary, but useful. I still use the clecos for a lot of little projects, so don't get rid of them.

[Railroad]

Thanks guys. This stuff really helps me get a grasp on things. I have to get started building the body buck and shuffle a few more things around in the barn (shop). Stewart's shipping eta is 10-06. I have the wife and a friend primed to help me with the inventory.

[Ray]

Changing subjects a little, will 100 clecos be enough?

Oh yeah. I did our build with a dozen or so.

Ray

[xlr8or]

Used the "elastic" tool many times. Just cut the waist band off a pair of underwear, mark at 1" increments and stretch as needed. Clamp it down and hit the spots with a center punch.