Hydraulic clutch issue

[Toy4me]

I'll try and make this brief. I bought a MkIII semi finished. It had one of Gordon Levys Quater master clutch in it. When I initially drove the car it was very grabby and just was a bear to drive. I figured I would give it a shot but figured I would replace it eventually. Well I put on about 100 miles and for racing I would say it would be great, for a hard driven street car I was not pleased. So I ordered up a Fidenza flywheel and a Spec 2+ clutch. Seems to be a pretty popular combo here. The car has a Hydraulic clutch also that seemed to be working quite well. When I pulled everything apart and started looking I noticed there was no ring for the quick time bellhousing to locate the bearing retainer for the T5. So that obviously was not in alignment so I checked the bellhousing alignment. Also off. So I called Mike Forte and he sent me out the correct ring to locate the retainer and I dialed in the bellhousing for a total of .004 out. Now I got it assembled back today and it does not seem like I have enough throw on the hyd. piston to completely disengage the clutch. I have a short video. I have the adjustment out so the TO bearing is just a whisker away from the clutch fingers so I can't go anymore there. I looked at the pivot stem and it seems like there is only 1 size for the Quick time bellhousing. Do I just need a slave cylinder with more travel? the Quatermaster TO bearing was a little taller but I figured I'd best use the TO bearing that came with the Spec clutch. Hopefully the video works.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v349/72redvette/th_IMG_1378_zpsoal5jcqq.mp4 (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v349/72redvette/IMG_1378_zpsoal5jcqq.mp4)

[edwardb]

I have the adjustment out so the TO bearing is just a whisker away from the clutch fingers so I can't go anymore there.

First, that's not the right adjustment. For a Ford TOB it should be lightly touching the clutch fingers. That's how they're designed to work.

Second, wasn't able to get the video to load from your link. But did with the direct link provided in Photobucket. What I can see is this is a "pull" type hydraulic clutch. Most of us have installed the "push" type with a bracket on the transmission and the slave cylinder pushes the clutch arm. Your slave is mounted on the engine side and pulls. Same as the action from a clutch cable. So much of our experiences won't relate. Including mine. It doesn't look like you're getting enough throw, so different master and/or slave sizes are likely required. But I wouldn't know what to recommend for this type.

[Toy4me]

First, that's not the right adjustment. For a Ford TOB it should be lightly touching the clutch fingers. That's how they're designed to work.

Second, wasn't able to get the video to load from your link. But did with the direct link provided in Photobucket. What I can see is this is a "pull" type hydraulic clutch. Most of us have installed the "push" type with a bracket on the transmission and the slave cylinder pushes the clutch arm. Your slave is mounted on the engine side and pulls. Same as the action from a clutch cable. So much of our experiences won't relate. Including mine. It doesn't look like you're getting enough throw, so different master and/or slave sizes are likely required. But I wouldn't know what to recommend for this type.

Being a GM guy for a long time they are just slightly away. I will try that. Yes it is a pull type, supposed to have 1.3 inches of travel. Not looking like I am getting all the travel from it. I'll check the master size later today. I do see most are using the push type and I'm not opposed to going this way if I have to but it was working fine with the quatermaster clutch. I'll lok into it more later today when I can get back at it and measure the travel and master size bore.

[toolerwayne]

I have had one of those pull slaves fail at 5k miles. When it fails, and it will, you will have brake fluid ruining your powder coat. Call Mike Forte. He provided the parts for me to change over to a push type and it works with less effort

[Toy4me]

Looks like I'll be giving Mike another call. No matter how much I adjust the rod on the master I still am only getting about 3/4 inch of travel on the pushrod on the slave cylinder. Never did care much for this current setup anyway. I do have a 3/4 inch Wilwood master for the clutch so that should be able to stay. Just need his push type slave cylinder. Budget? We don't need no stinking budget!

Update called Mike Forte and ordered his system. Pulling out the old system and throwing it in the trash.

[edwardb]

Without knowing any more about your slave, I'm guessing your 3/4-inch master is probably a little light. That could explain why you're only getting 3/4-inch travel. Most clutches used in these builds require 1 or 1-1/8 inch of throw. I've installed two of Mike's push style systems. Both with 7/8-inch slaves. One with 1-1/8 inch master, and the current build worked out better with a 1-inch master. The difference is the pivot on the clutch arm is closer to the TOB on the current build.

[Toy4me]

Without knowing any more about your slave, I'm guessing your 3/4-inch master is probably a little light. That could explain why you're only getting 3/4-inch travel. Most clutches used in these builds require 1 or 1-1/8 inch of throw. I've installed two of Mike's push style systems. Both with 7/8-inch slaves. One with 1-1/8 inch master, and the current build worked out better with a 1-inch master. The difference is the pivot on the clutch arm is closer to the TOB on the current build.

The quartermaster clutch that was in the car required very little movement of the clutch fork. Maybe because the clutch is so small at around 8 inch clutch. Now with a bigger clutch and total different system it seems that this current system is to small and not enough travel. Mike is sending me his complete kit with the 1 1/8 bore cylinder. I'm expecting to have to put a stop in so it does not give to much travel. I would rather have to much and set a stop than be marginal and not have enough travel. It will all be out tomorrow and awaiting the new parts to come in.