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View Full Version : Clutch Help T45-4.6



Racee75
09-18-2016, 09:03 PM
Looking for some advice.

Assembled my 4.6 DOHC to my T-45 and installed in my Mk4 last weekend. Went to install clutch cable today and cannot depress the clutch pedal. Clutch fork moves freely until it meets the clutch fingers.

Any suggestions on where to start looking ?

Thanks

ryanmac
09-19-2016, 08:58 PM
Clutch fork should not move freely if installed correctly. Usually you need to pry the clutch fork forward with moderate pressure to install the clutch cable.

I'd say 'fork has come off of the ball' during install.

Thread on Clutch Fork Issues (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?21876-Clutch-cable-help-advice&highlight=Clutch+fork)

Racee75
09-20-2016, 04:56 AM
Thanks Ryanmac... I will check that out tonight

edwardb
09-20-2016, 06:25 AM
I don't agree. Clutch fork should move freely until it meets the clutch fingers. Or maybe better said moves with limited resistance. You can feel the TOB sliding on the trans input shaft. But there's nothing else that should be causing any resistance. So that part sounds OK. But once the TOB touches the clutch fork, that's when it's difficult to move. You won't be able to move by hand. If the clutch cable is attached and you can't move the pedal, then obviously something is wrong. I'm assuming not the pedal itself if it goes through the normal range of motion without a cable attached. Possible problem areas: TOB not installed correctly, clutch not installed correctly including maybe clutch disk installed backwards, pivot ball not adjusted properly (if it's adjustable, depends on the bell housing which you don't mention).

Just for reference, with the TOB against the fingers on the clutch, the arm should come out of the bell housing approximately at a right angle. If it's not, then something is wrong. This pic is a Quicktime bell housing and also a hydraulic clutch. But note the position of the clutch arm, which in this case the TOB is just touching the clutch fingers. Moving to the left (toward the engine) actuates the clutch. Moving to the right (toward the transmission, if the slave cylinder were disconnected obviously) it would move freely until it hit the end of the opening.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4308_zpsbs6rkvtm.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4308_zpsbs6rkvtm.jpg.html)

j.miller
09-20-2016, 06:55 AM
First thing that came to mind was disk in backwards like edwardb mentioned.

Racee75
09-21-2016, 08:54 PM
Thanks for your advice... I will be pulling the engine and trans in the next few weeks after some other work is done. Will then see what I did wrong and hopefully it is an easy fix.

RickP
09-22-2016, 08:40 AM
Thanks for your advice... I will be pulling the engine and trans in the next few weeks after some other work is done. Will then see what I did wrong and hopefully it is an easy fix.


I just went through this a few weeks ago. Ryanmac references the thread I posted about it. I have to 100% agree with EdwardB. The fork should move freely from front to back until it meets the fingers on the clutch, then there is no way you can move it by hand. In my case, the clutch fork came off the ball when I mated the transmission to the bell housing. I just didn't know enough at the time to check it and the engine went in "as is". And yes, I had to pull the entire assembly in order to fix it. If I was to guess, either your clutch fork is off the ball stud, OR your TOB is in backwards/not installed correctly.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?21876-Clutch-cable-help-advice