Brake balance bar help please

[wareaglescott]

What do I need to do and when is the appropriate time to adjust my brake balance bar?

I bled the brakes but am not driving the car yet. As it sits I have the adjustable threaded rods pretty far into the clevis on both the front and rear. I had to thread them in pretty far to keep the brake pedal off the frame bar that goes across in front of it when the pedal is at rest. Both of them pretty much are lined up with each other and when I push the pedal they both pretty much stay lined up. No real rotation one relative to the other.

Here it is with pedal not pushed:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58584&d=1473942314

Here it is with pedal pushed: (pretty much the same)
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58585&d=1473942329


Do I wait until after I go cart it or what is the general practice with these? Never had anything like this before. Obviously it seems hard to adjust after footbox panels are in place so I would assume I want to get it setup before.
Any relevant information to this is appreciated.
Thanks

[edwardb]

Looks like you're on the right track. Centered side-to-side to start (same force applied to front and back) and the clevis's adjusted so your brake pedal stops at the right location. Nothing else you can do until it's actually driving and you determine if front to back compensation needs adjusting. My bet is for street driving, it will be OK. Especially with those big Wilwood's in back. But you're right, won't be a particularly easy place to get in for adjustment. That's the way it is. I looked at putting in one of the Wilwood remote adjusting cables on mine. But with the collapsed footbox used with the Coyote installation, not really room for that either.

[wareaglescott]

ok thanks Paul.
So what would be the indications if it needs adjusting? Never driven anything that would need adjusting. They have always just worked good on every car I have had!

[edwardb]

So what would be the indications if it needs adjusting? Never driven anything that would need adjusting. They have always just worked good on every car I have had!

Because these cars have near equal front to back weight distribution, they need more rear brakes than is typical. Guys sometimes have problems getting the rears to lock up or do their share of the work. Those big Wilwoods I mentioned that you installed (same as mine) I'm betting will be up to the task without any additional bias to the rear brakes.

[CraigS]

Drive the car normally for a bit. Read the directions from Wilwood about bedding in the pads. Once they are ready find a large lot or road w/ little traffic. Get to about 40 mph and hit the brakes. If the car feels like the rear is going to come around that is usually the rear brakes locking. You may also see the tach drop off since the engine is about to stall. If you get a wiggle in the steering wheel, that is usually the fronts locking. Whichever is locking move the bias away from that MC maybe 1-2 turns. You can tell which the bias is favoring because there will be more of the threaded shaft seen outside of the clevis on that side. I would back that jam nut out toward the end of the threads so you can see the actual length of exposed shaft more accurately. IE, to me, if you count the amount of shaft hidden by the jam nut, it looks like your bias is set slightly toward the MC that is the top one in your pics.

[wareaglescott]

Good info Craig thanks! Printed that off to reference later