818 first start checklist

[ben1272]

I am hazardously close to being able to turn the key for the first time and wanted a checklist of things to make sure are completed and checked before proceeding.

I was thinking:

- check engine oil (I'll be putting in new oil and filter)
- fill/check coolant system
- fuel line clamps all tight and lines run properly
- alternator belt tension (not urgent but worth checking)
- starter motor mounting bolt torque/tight
- engine sensors all wired into harness (I am using iWire so this should be an easy check)
- instrument cluster connected into harness
- check all harness leads/connectors are used or safely terminated (to avoid shorts)
- battery charged
- throttle cable operating throughout range, open/closed, not loose
- prime fuel system, check for leaks
- confirm trans in neutral, clear area around drive wheels anyway
- fire extinguisher within arms reach, garden hose on and ready as backup


I dont have clutch or brake systems filled/bled yet. I assume it will throw a code or 12?

I only have one catalytic converter right after the turbo (and one O2 sensor)...none further down stream as on the WRX....I assume a code will throw? Do I NEED second Cat/O2 sensor?

What other codes should I expect? I am running a near stock 2004 WRX.

Since I am using an iWire harness, and having heard all of the good things about how well it has worked for so many, I am not expecting much/any trouble with electrical side of readiness. That said, I am always nervous when connecting power for the first time to a new system. Does anyone have a suggestion as to how best to approach this? I figure I would get everything wired and then apply the ground terminal to the battery and hope for no sparks! Is it worth connecting a bench supply with an ammeter and checking that no unusually high current is being drawn first? I am just being paranoid?

Would love to hear any other suggestions. Especially things to look for, listen for, smell for, etc. Of course I will have fire extinguisher handy. Any scenario where I could have motor revving uncontrollably, running away, etc? What is best way to kill motor in this situation, remove battery power/throw i-Wire provided circuit breaker?

Thanks, and sorry so many questions. I have never transplanted an engine before, let alone built up a car around a transplanted engine!

Ben

[STiPWRD]

It's best to prime the engine with oil first without putting a load on the bearings. You can do this by disconnecting the power to the fuel pump and removing all the spark plugs (and unplugging the coil packs as they will arc to the frame). Then remove the oil filter and crank the starter until you see oil coming out of the oil cooler. Fill the filter with oil and screw back onto the engine. Crank the starter some more to fill the oil galleys with oil (if you have an oil pressure sensor, it will begin to read the oil pressure). Now you can reinstall the spark plugs, coils and power back to the fuel pump and your engine will be primed with oil. You'd be surprised how much cranking it could take to fully get the oil going to where it needs to be.

If you haven't bled the clutch how will you dis-engage it to start the motor?

Don't worry about the cat, it won't throw a code right away or prevent you from driving.

I wouldn't worry about the wiring, if the current is too high, that's what fuses are for.

Fire extinguisher is a good idea. I first started my 818 outside of the garage just in case if there was a fire, it wouldn't burn down the house. I also had my garden hose ready as a back-up.

[Samiam1017]

is it a new short block or previously ran? if its new i would suggest getting a pressure tank from your engine builder andwr filling it with that as opposed to just cranking it over, it takes close to two minutes to get oil up thru the cam journals if its completely dry! Otherwise do as STIWRD recommends.

[ben1272]

To clarify, chassis is on jack stands in my garage, no wheels in place. Should I postpone starting until car is on ground with wheels/tires? I have read conflicting thoughts about starting a car on jack stands, but it seems it would be OK given flat, level, intact concrete garage floor? I do not have a problem with waiting to start until a few more things are finished. I just figured it would be good to know what is leaking, not working, etc., before putting her on the ground.

Thanks for oil priming sequence. Good to know and I will follow procedure!

[ben1272]

It is straight out of donor. Was run just before removal 16 months ago.


is it a new short block or previously ran? if its new i would suggest getting a pressure tank from your engine builder andwr filling it with that as opposed to just cranking it over, it takes close to two minutes to get oil up thru the cam journals if its completely dry! Otherwise do as STIWRD recommends.

[Pearldrummer7]

I don't see why you can't start it on jack stands. Since it was from the donor car I don't think it's an issue to run it without priming it. No rear O2 needed. Make sure it's in neutral since you don't have a clutch! I also would recommend turning the fuel pump on (or make it run via key cycle) a few times to make sure you don't have fuel leaks. If there's a problem, throw the breaker for sure!

How did you bleed your coolant? Wayne's method? FFR's method? I would be wary of air pockets and recommend checking the coolant in the overflow reservoir once it's cooled down either way.

[ben1272]

Here is car in present state:

58524

[ben1272]

Yes, coolant. Meant to have that on the list. I added bleed port as other have done per Wayne I think....I know Craig (Mechie3) has. I do need to fill and bleed. When you say check the coolant in the reservoir, what do you mean? Check that some has overflowed? Sorry....total nube.


I don't see why you can't start it on jack stands. Since it was from the donor car I don't think it's an issue to run it without priming it. No rear O2 needed. Make sure it's in neutral since you don't have a clutch! I also would recommend turning the fuel pump on (or make it run via key cycle) a few times to make sure you don't have fuel leaks. If there's a problem, throw the breaker for sure!

How did you bleed your coolant? Wayne's method? FFR's method? I would be wary of air pockets and recommend checking the coolant in the overflow reservoir once it's cooled down either way.

[alpine227]

Prime fuel system check for leaks, have a fire extinguisher and speedy dry handy! check wires are clear of moving parts, put some blocks under the frame in case the jack stands tip over.

[STiPWRD]

To clarify, chassis is on jack stands in my garage, no wheels in place. Should I postpone starting until car is on ground with wheels/tires? I have read conflicting thoughts about starting a car on jack stands, but it seems it would be OK given flat, level, intact concrete garage floor?
You can run the car on jack stands with no problem, I do it all the time. You will, however, need to bleed the clutch so you can disengage it. The reason I did my first start outside of the garage was because it was my first time fully building a motor so I just didn't want to take any chances of starting a fire.

As far as priming the motor, think of it as prolonging the life of the bearings. You certainly could start the motor without priming it but because it hasn't been ran for so long, it won't have any oil pressure for the first few seconds of running - this will accelerate the wear on the bearings.

For getting the air out of the coolant system, I had done Wayne's mod but it would still overheat after a few on/off cycles. I borrowed the air lift tool from another builder and it took care of the overheating issue right away - well worth it.

[longislandwrx]

if you floor the gas pedal, you can crank it to prime the oil pump and the car will not start. no need to pull any fuses/plugs.

pulling the plugs will however reduce the stress on the bearings while you prime. (low compression motor, so either way I think you are ok)


oops someone already said this,

[AZPete]

champagne and video

[flynntuna]

"You can run the car on jack stands with no problem"
Just don't lean on the car. :rolleyes:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-Nunm3Sbzo

[wleehendrick]

You will, however, need to bleed the clutch so you can disengage it.

If the clutch hydraulics aren't done and you just can't want to start it, couldn't you just put the trans in Neutral? (and press the clutch starter safety interupt, of course).

[longislandwrx]

you could if you are 1000% sure your transmission was reassembled correctly.

[STiPWRD]

If the clutch hydraulics aren't done and you just can't want to start it, couldn't you just put the trans in Neutral? (and press the clutch starter safety interupt, of course).
I guess you could but I've never done that. There will be some rotating mass inside the trans such as the the input shaft and maybe some other gears that are spinning but not engaged, so the starter will have to overcome that extra inertia.

[wleehendrick]

you could if you are 1000% sure your transmission was reassembled correctly.

If it's on jack stands as well as neutral, should be safe. I'm at a similar point, my 818's a roller, drivetrain all hooked up, shifter installed, but clutch not bled and ebrake handle not hooked up. I pop in into neutral to roll it around and in gear to hold it (+ wheel chocks).


I guess you could but I've never done that. There will be some rotating mass inside the trans such as the the input shaft and maybe some other gears that are spinning but not engaged, so the starter will have to overcome that extra inertia.

I've had manual transmission cars before clutch safety interlocks were common ('74 2002, '87 GTI). The starters on those could easily move the entire vehicle, so I wouldn't think a little extra rotational mass in the tranny would be a problem!

If Ben really wants to start it before the clutch is operational, he should be able to do so.

[ben1272]

Budweiser and a video OK?


champagne and video

[ben1272]

One of my favorite movies ever.


"You can run the car on jack stands with no problem"
Just don't lean on the car. :rolleyes:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-Nunm3Sbzo

[AZPete]

Ben, I suppose Bud will be okay but for a car from Factory Five Racing I recommend Racer 5 IPA:

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb180/AZPeteCobra/Racer%205%20IPA.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/AZPeteCobra/media/Racer%205%20IPA.jpg.html)

[alpine227]

How did it go?

[ben1272]

Hah! You are an optimistic one, eh? I am not there yet, but getting closer. I decided to run and fill brakes and clutch, so got busy on that stuff. In the mean time the checklist is looking pretty complete now. Just need to dig up some of the procedures (clutch bleed, brake bleed, coolant fill/bleed, etc). I'd like to print them all and put them in a binder to keep with the car! There is so much great stuff shared on this forum.

Dont worry, there will be film footage of the first start....I wont forget and turn the key prematurely or anything....

Proof of my progress:

5890358904589055890658907

-Ben

[NBinSD]

For easy 1-person clutch/brake bleeding I used speed bleeders.

[Pearldrummer7]

Hah! You are an optimistic one, eh? I am not there yet, but getting closer. I decided to run and fill brakes and clutch, so got busy on that stuff. In the mean time the checklist is looking pretty complete now. Just need to dig up some of the procedures (clutch bleed, brake bleed, coolant fill/bleed, etc). I'd like to print them all and put them in a binder to keep with the car! There is so much great stuff shared on this forum.

Dont worry, there will be film footage of the first start....I wont forget and turn the key prematurely or anything....

Proof of my progress:

5890358904589055890658907

-Ben

+1 on Speed Bleeders for solo bleeding. You really don't need to do brakes before you give her a start. I don't use this (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18090-VCP-Cooling-System-Mod)method for coolant, but many people do. I fill the hoses as much as I can manually then do some heat cycles, checking the turbo overflow reservoir (that plastic or metal container with a cap and a few hoses on it that probably didn't fit very well with your frame). Not to be confused with the regular coolant overflow reservoir , which is the clear plastic thing (also should have some in it though)

[ben1272]

just bought 5 speed bleeders....what a nifty idea. I am looking forward to bleeding those systems now! Thanks for the tip. For those who dont know (like me), speed bleeders are brake bleeder valves that look alot like the stock bleeder, but they have check valves built in so that all you need to do is opne them (like normal) and pump the pedals. Brake fluid squirts through check valve and it closes when pressure is released preventing air from being sucked back in. Just tighten back up once no more air shows. Genius.
www.speedbleeder.com (no affiliation)

[alpine227]

Haha bleeding the clutch slave was an expirence I pulled it from the trans raised the bleeder above the rest of the system and went to town with a vacuum pump.

[Sgt.Gator]

Back on codes to expect; if you did a TGV delete that will throw a code. It can be killed permanently in the tune.

For priming a new engine, and I suppose one that's been sitting for a long time, I've been using the Home Depot oil system. Here's how from a thread by Underdog on the LGT forum, with a couple of my own notes:

1 Gallon Multi-Purpose Sprayer - I used the HDX 210 739, which I purchased for $9.97 at Home Depot.
http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/7819/4md6.jpg


Qty.1 Barbed Hose Fitting - 1/4" Barb to 1/8" BSPT - *Note the factory bung is threaded BSPT and not NPT. Do not use an NPT fitting here!*
http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/3131/1shg.png

IMPORTANT The OEM Subaru plug is tapped for 1/8" BSPT NOT NPT! It's very difficult to find 1/8" BSPT to 1/4" barbed hose, but you can order them online or possibly at hydraulic supply stores in larger cities. I had to order 10, I still have a few left if anyone wants to buy one from me they are $7 including shipping.

-OR-

Replace the oem Subaru fitting with one that has an 1/8" NPT port. That way you can use a common 1/8" NPT to 1/4" barbed hose fitting available at HD/Lowes. And the best part is you can now put a oil pressure sensor or oil temp sensor with 1/8" NPT sensor in there. You will have to jump the oem oil pressure light switch connection. Don't worry, all this connection does is turn the gauge cluster oil pressure light on and off, it does not go to the ECU.
The block adapter is M18 x 1.5 x 1/8"npt. I've tried several of them, so far the one I like the best is the Prosport PSNUT. Just be aware it comes with Teflon tape that you should remove and replace with high temp Permatex thread sealant.

https://res.cloudinary.com/rallysport/image/private/s--lrJV-O_h--/f_auto,t_category/v1/product_images/prs_psnut_3

You can get the adapter here:
http://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/gauge-install-adapters/prs-psnut-prosport-oil-galley-plug-w-1-8in-npt-threaded-center



Assembly:

1. Open the sprayer box.

2. Remove the sprayer from the box.

3. Install the sprayer hose and pump/handle.

4. Do not install the trigger/wand assembly.

To use:

A. Remove the oil pressure switch from the galley plug adapter. This is located under the alternator in the front center of the engine.

B. Thread in your barbed fitting until hand tight, then cinch it down lightly with a wrench. Do not overtighten as you will easily strip the brass fitting.

C. Push the hose from the sprayer onto the barbed fitting.

D. Fill the tank with a gallon of whatever oil you prefer.

E. At this point I usually remove the oil filler cap and start pumping. This particular sprayer has a built-in pressure relief valve which seems to open at about 30PSI. (When I first tried this I plumbed in a gauge to see how much pressure was being created.)

F. Keep the tank pressurized until it is nearly empty. Try not to let it run down completely as you don't want to push a bunch of air in after the oil. It's not hyper-critical, just keep an eye on it.

G. This really doesn't even need to be a step... but if you are curious how the oil is flowing you can try cracking the turbo oil feed banjo bolt loose. The oil will come out very quickly, so be prepared.

H. When you are done you can release the pressure on the tank and pull the hose off the barbed fitting. The pressure in the galleys will cause a little back-flow, so either cap it until the pressure bleeds off, or work quickly and replace your oil pressure switch to minimize spillage.

Protip: Do this with the engine on the stand so you can easily spot any leaks, and fix them if necessary.

There you go! Don't forget to check the dipstick before startup and after the engine is warm.

You can literally fill the entire engine with 5 quarts using this system. It takes about 90 seconds per quart.

You can also mod the above with a an inline disposable filter: WIX FILTERS 33001 or Fram PGP1. You can also extend the oil fill line with 1/4" tubing, add quick disconnects, on/off valves, all sorts of mods.

Finally, you can also use the pump to fill differentials and trannys.

[ben1272]

Thanks for the info! I will definitely consider this when I prime the engine.