#8938 - Jacob's Build

[Jacob]

About half done with the inventory and so far just a couple of minor issues with the aluminum plates in box 6.

I have asked this question of Mark at Breeze and still waiting for an answer but maybe others could help? I am installing the Breeze roll bars and plan to paint them the same color as the stripe. Prior to taking the body off, I'd like to go ahead and fab up the roll bars, apply the primer and get that done. Am I correct in assuming the body as it comes attached from FFR is correctly positioned, so if I enlarged the holes and fit the roll bars first, I'd be OK?

[edwardb]

Am I correct in assuming the body as it comes attached from FFR is correctly positioned, so if I enlarged the holes and fit the roll bars first, I'd be OK?

I personally wouldn't assume that. You'll find the aluminum pieces may not end up in exactly the same locations, plus the bulb seal isn't installed yet. So the body very likely will end up positioned a little differently than shipped. The difference may or may not be important as the roll bar holes are typically a little oversized and the difference covered with the grommets and trim rings. But I personally wouldn't chance it.

[Jacob]

Thanks...I value your opinion!

[Jacob]

Mainly in an effort to practice loading photos, attached is my reclaiming system for the packing paper. I'll use this for masking purposes. The paper was too good to throw away! As I was doing the inventory, which is finished, I kept up with the pieces that need to be powdercoated. I have a homemade deal that works well on smaller pieces.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70285&d=1499995750

[wareaglescott]

clever way to save the paper. There sure is a lot of it!
I saved some and use it to make templates when making pieces of heat/sound shield for the panels.

[Jacob]

With the help of a couple of strong young men, got the body off ...

58861

[Jacob]

Decided to go ahead and start on the AL panels since various parts are still on B.O., drilling so many holes it becomes much like painting...drift off into senselessness! Plan is to undercoat trunk and fender panels, lizard skin on the inside and the panels that are visible (thinking about basecoat / clearcoat silver)...not sure yet? Also installed the Russ Thompson trunk box...will post some pics the next time.

[GoDadGo]

Hey Jacob,

You may want to also look at UPOL's Raptor Bed Liner for your undercoating needs.
It's super easy to use, is a two-part catalyst activated polyurethane system that comes in all sorts of colors including black.
You mix the stuff in the can that it was shipped in and then attach the spray gun that comes with the kit.
It really looks professional and you can vary the texture with the air pressure and distance.

Steve

[Jacob]

Over the past few weeks I've managed to get a few things done...drove my 37 Ford on a 1200 mile roundtrip down to Cruisin the Coast! (one of those bucket goals)...On the roadster I've done the following:
drilled and mocked up trunk, cockpit, footbox panels
mocked up a Russ Thompson trunk box
applied bedliner to fenderwell and underside panels.
Now that almost all the back ordered parts are here I can start on the suspension. A few pics included
bedliner applied

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70295&d=1499995764
trunk box installation

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70286&d=1499995752


panel mocking up with clecos
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70287&d=1499995753

[Jacob]

Little more progress, pretty well put the front end together...searching for the front brakes and cannot find them either on the parts lists or in any of the boxes...that aside the only other issue is the front driver foot box panel opening doesn't agree at all with the frame work behind it. Will someone look at the ball joints and make sure they are correct? The only way I could make them agree with the photos in the assembly manual was to flip the upper A arms....

driver side upper A arm
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70283&d=1499995748

Driver side footbox front
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70287&d=1499995753

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70296&d=1499995765

more trunk work

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70331&d=1499996376

[wareaglescott]

Upper A arms look correct.
That is strange about the footbox front panel not lining up. I ended up covering that hole with a fill plate anyways and then drilling a smaller hole in the middle of the fill plate that my brake and hydraulic clutch hoses to the reservoir come through. If you are not using a cable clutch the alignment may not be critical. Maybe check with factory five?
What brakes are you using? I did the wilwoods and they come drop shipped directly from the manufacturer in their own box.

[Jacob]

Planned on a clutch cable, i'll talk to them tomorrow. On the panel where its listed on the sheet, it notes a June 2016 revision, so maybe my frame setup and the panel may be disconnected? I'm sure they'll make it right. I think the brakes will be dropped shipped, just not sure when? thanks!

[Jacob]

the old footbox front was sent in error, the correct replacement is on the way ....simple problem, quick solution!

[Jacob]

Got the pumpkin installed, I was able to do it by myself, wasn't easy. Used an old motorcycle jack and a ratchet strap. Couple of observations;
1. when put in place there was about an 1/8" gap between the pumpkin and the mounting flange, so I put some washers to fill the gap.
2. seems to me the rear two bolts could stand to be about 1/2" longer, didn't feel comfortable torquing those two bolts to 100 lbs since its aluminum, afraid of stripping the threads so I did 80 lbs? Have others had any issues?
3. POR-15 on the cast iron part and clear coated the aluminum on the rear

pumpkin loaded on the jack


http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71149&d=1501187015

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71147&d=1501187012



In place and supported by the rachet strap

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71146&d=1501187010

[edwardb]

Congrat's on getting the center section installed! I did mine myself as well. Much like you lifting it through the open top plus from the bottom. I've heard of others requiring spacers as well. Mine didn't. Not sure what changed. The frame or the Ford center section. Whatever, adding the spacers should be fine. Regarding the rear mounting bolts (M14-2.0 x 100MM FLANGE HEAD BOLT) mine engage the aluminum ears all but about the last 1/4-inch. That's over 1-1/2 inches of thread engagement. You're not going to strip those at 100 ft-lbs. 80 ft/lbs is probably OK. I don't think they're going anywhere. But you can take them to the recommend 100 ft/lbs IMO. No issue with mine doing that.

[Jacob]

Got the brake calipers on, finished up the IRS (a challenge for sure) and got the rear sway bar in. I'll have to torque the rear bearing nuts later, but do have a question for those who may know...are the front and rear wheel bearings "packed" with bearing grease? Not sure if these are considered sealed bearings?

If this IRS performs like it looks, it should be impressive!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71141&d=1501187003

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71139&d=1501187000

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71138&d=1501186999

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71134&d=1501186994

[Straversi]

Got the brake calipers on, finished up the IRS (a challenge for sure) and got the rear sway bar in. I'll have to torque the rear bearing nuts later, but do have a question for those who may know...are the front and rear wheel bearings "packed" with bearing grease? Not sure if these are considered sealed bearings?

If this IRS performs like it looks, it should be impressive!
http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj576/bubadcock/IMG_1252_zps7pjhbhww.jpg (http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/bubadcock/media/IMG_1252_zps7pjhbhww.jpg.html)

http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj576/bubadcock/IMG_1244_zpsdwbap5yx.jpg (http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/bubadcock/media/IMG_1244_zpsdwbap5yx.jpg.html)

I called FFR with the same question and they said the wheel ends were Pre packed.
Enjoying your build.
-Steve

[Jacob]

Been busy spraying ceramic insulation on the aluminum panels. Found some stuff on amazon that I thought I would try, its about half the price of lizardskin. Not sure it was worth all the effort but planned on using hushmat too.

$42/ gallon, used two gallons

711506157961576
Sprayed all panels that involve the interior about 4 times. Masked off those areas that will need to mate up with another panel...tried to do a somewhat scientific comparison of heat insulating before and after and the best I can figure out it reduced the heat by about 20%. Used a digital thermometer and got about 157 degrees from my heat gun before and got about 122 degrees after, so the heat gun may be too severe of a test.
61577

Sprayed it on with a cheap sprayer from HF ($14)...made a mess but sprayed on a good pattern. All in all not too bad.
61578

[Jacob]

Finally got the correct brackets for the rear brakes and fired up the powder coating operation. The system works pretty good for less than $100 investment.
Powder coat "spray booth" is a cardboard box with a metal hangar for conductivity:
Power coat oven is a hot plate with a sheet metal box, checked with a digital thermometer and it can maintain 350 deg F, seems to do a good job:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70330&d=1499996246
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71156&d=1501191373

these are the heat shields being coated silver
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71157&d=1501191374



Next up is to start running the brake lines. Pedal assembly is installed.

[Jacob]

Progress update, installed brake lines, brake master cylinders, accelerator assembly. Probably will re do the front, not liking how the loop protrudes into the engine bay area..

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70345&d=1499996395

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70344&d=1499996393

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70324&d=1499996238

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70322&d=1499996236

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70329&d=1499996244

[wareaglescott]

looking good. I had a similar loop on the brake line I was unhappy with. When I went to install the power steering reservoir the lines ran perfectly down through the loop. Almost looks as if I planned it that way. Pure luck though. haha Maybe that loop could work out for you.http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59095&d=1475005848

[Jacob]

looking good. I had a similar loop on the brake line I was unhappy with. When I went to install the power steering reservoir the lines ran perfectly down through the loop. Almost looks as if I planned it that way. Pure luck though. haha Maybe that loop could work out for you.http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59095&d=1475005848

Luck or smarts? Either way you got the results!

[Jacob]

Got the brake fluid reservoirs mounted
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70345&d=1499996395

[Jacob]

Installed Heat Shields

Opinions differ as to whether this makes a difference or not, I personally think it does, so I installed some heat shields on the footboxes. Plus I like how they look. Powdercoated 2x with metallic silver on the heat facing panels.
Used 3/8 in spacing
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70380&d=1499997257

[Jacob]

A little more progress over the past couple of weeks. Got the FF Metals battery box installed. This is a well put together item, well engineered and extremely responsive customer service. Could have installed in about 30 mins but I spent more time powdercoating it 3x to help against any potential corrosion. The battery box fits in between the IRS like it was meant to be there!


http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70337&d=1499996384
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70338&d=1499996385

After Powder coating

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70336&d=1499996382
Then I sorta temporarily mounted the heater and wiper motor. Almost mounted the heater box too far to the left (facing forward). Had alot more room so the heater could have gone farther toward the driver side. This forced the wiper motor almost too far to the left, but it worked out.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70334&d=1499996380

[Jacob]

more progress being made, pretty well finished insulating the cockpit and decided to build a cubby behind the seats since the heater will prevent a glove box from being used. I wanted the cubby space to allow for full use of the trunk area if needed so I fabbed up a sheet of aluminum that is on a piano hinge and uses magnets to hold in place in the upright position, then if the trunk space is needed it can be folded over flat over the battery box. Whether it was worth the effort???
with the panel hinged upright

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70350&d=1499996503
The idea is that this panel can be folded flat if more room is needed or can be held upright with the magnets. I also installed an LED light with a toggle so it will light up this area.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70351&d=1499996504





These are the magnets that I'm using to hold the panel upright:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71159&d=1501192348

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71158&d=1501192347

[Vette1972]

That's a cool feature! Nice job.

[Jazzman]

Very Creative! Excellent!!

[Jacob]

Ran the fuel lines (using the FiTech system) from the tank pump to the front. Haven't terminated any of the ends yet, tried to get the fuel lines as high on the horizontal tubing as possible...anyone see any issues? I have gotten advice that it would be better to route the fuel lines through the upper part of the passenger tunnel, which I like better. I have a concern about road debris etc hitting the fuel lines under the car. So I'll scrap this routing and re-route.)

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70347&d=1499996499

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70348&d=1499996500

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70372&d=1499997246

[WIS89]

Jacob-

I like the creative use of the cubby and trunk space! That is a pretty slick solution, and it turned out great.

Build is coming along nicely. Keep up the good work.

Regards,

Steve

[Jacob]

It may appear I've been doing nothing, but really I have. Been having fits dealing with brake fluid issues. After alot of effort I finally found I had a defective brake fluid reservoir, it had a pinhole spot that wasn't fully welded and it was leaking and after a long effort finally found it. Bleeding the brakes had to be put on hold since my trusty assistant had appendicitis. Plus a couple of weeks in Hawaii slowed me down. All that said, I plan to get back to work tomorrow!

[Jacob]

Anyone see any reasons why I couldn't mount this air gate in the locations I've chosen? On the driver side it would come in just above the header area and on the passenger side on top of the footbox. I found these aluminum gates on Amazon and like them. There is about 3/4 inch on each side so it would seem easy to attach the 3" hose. Trying to think of what could possibly interfere and can't come up with a reason why they wouldn't work in these locations...all input appreciated!

Got these from Amazon for about $14 each
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70361&d=1499996589

Driver side

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70360&d=1499996588
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70359&d=1499996586

Pass side (later decided to not mount to the top, but to the front of the passenger footbox)
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70358&d=1499996585

[Railroad]

They look well made and functional. Have you considered opening and closing them. I know at my age, I might not be able to bend enough to operate them.

[Jacob]

They look well make and functional. Have you considered opening and closing them. I know at my age, I might not be able to bend enough to operate them.

I am assuming they'll be open most of the time, but they'll be pretty easy to reach and if all else fails I'll get my grandson to crawl in and open / close. :cool:

[Jacob]

DASH FIT ?

Not sure if I am describing this the best I can? I am trial fitting the dash and my question is whether the top of the dash should sit flush with the curvature of the top rail of the steel frame work? If I put the aluminum flush with it, the dash sits too high for the far left gauge (this case its the tach), so to be able to thread the backing plate on the tach the dash has to drop down about 1/2 inch. I am thinking that as long as the dash sits at or below the steel framework I'm OK.

[awd-turbo]

Could you have done a single brake fluid reservoirs and just "T'd" the lines? I was thinking about doing that.

[Jacob]

Could you have done a single brake fluid reservoirs and just "T'd" the lines? I was thinking about doing that.

Yes, but for what ever reason I think one tiny reservoir looks cheap? No logic to this, one would work well. Just thought 2 looked better.

[Jacob]

Been busy mocking up the Russ Thompson turn signal setup, dash, console and wire harness routing.


This is how I intend to mount the fuse panel. Realize the FFR has it under the steering / brake cylinder setup but I just saw this as a better way to go. This allows easy access to the panel and this also allows routing the rear harness and allows easier in / out of the dash area.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70392&d=1499997276
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70385&d=1499997265
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70394&d=1499997423
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71155&d=1501190717


This part of the console will be removable. The fuel lines will run on the passenger side (top) and the electrical will run on the driver side.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71153&d=1501190714

Only downside of this mounting of the fuse panel is that the text on the fuse panel is upside down. Just seems neater

[edwardb]

Your RT turn signal assembly shouldn't stick out that far. It has a mounting bracket that attaches to an angled bracket on the 2x2 tube under the dash. Push it down to that location, then adjust the steering column to be in the right location for the steering wheel. This isn't the best picture (early in the wiring process of #8674) but in the LH side you can see the mounting bracket and location. The actual turn signal lever and assembly is removed in this pic, but the tube and mounting are as supplied from RT.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/th_IMG_4117_zpsniunnqsn.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4117_zpsniunnqsn.jpg.html)

Personally, I'd be a little concerned about that fuse panel location. Granted I guess it makes the rear harness routing a little simpler. But IMO it's not a big deal to route through the upper corner of the DS footbox as shown. What I'd be more concerned about is the front harness. The two legs (LH and RH lighting) are just long enough as supplied. With it further away, I'm betting you're going to find them too short. Something to check. I agree the stock location of the fuse panel looks a little hard to get to. But for the relatively few times you need to get to it once the car is operational, I would question the value of moving it. Once everything is sorted, you will go months/years without ever needing to even look at it. If you do, popping in/out a fuse or relay is quick and easy. Your choice though. Make it your way.

There has been quite a few threads discussion the merits (or not) of fuel and brake lines inside the transmission tunnel. Consensus of most is not the best location due to the spinning driveshaft. If you're set on doing that, at least make a driveshaft loop mandatory for your build.

[Jacob]

Thanks for your feedback Edwardb, I appreciate your thoughts. I ran the front harness first and the wires terminate right at the front of the frame rails, with the connectors that I plan to use on the front I think I will be OK. I do plan on using the driveshaft loop too. Russ asked me to give him a call and he can guide me thru what I need to do to get the signal housing closer to the dash.

Also, I have properly adjusted the Russ Thompson turn signal housing and am happy with where it sits now. Pics to follow.

[Jacob]

After thinking it over, decided to remove the fuel lines from the upper R of the trans tunnel and put them back where I had them, along frame rail of passenger side. Still intend to install a driveshaft loop but just didn't think having the fuel lines there as a good idea. Appreciate Edwardb for making me pause and think!

[Jacob]

More progress being made:
Got the motor and transmission this week
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70369&d=1499997242


http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70368&d=1499997241

Moved the fuel lines back to where I originally had them, passenger side frame rail


Got the Russ Thompson signal seated where I'm happy with it
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70395&d=1499997424

Finally decided where to mount the master battery switch
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70362&d=1499997233

Got the gauges and switches laid out where I'm happy with them.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70371&d=1499997245


Mounted the grab bar (that I shamelessly copied) from edwardb

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70364&d=1499997235
Now I'll take a break and drive the 37 Ford down to the "redneck riviera" for a few days!

[Jacob]

Any problems with how I mounted the inertia switch?
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70400&d=1499997431

Covered the dash with marine vinyl that has a nice pattern to it. First covered with vinyl faux carbon fiber, but was concerned about how it might hold up and if it got scratched it would not be fun taking all the gauges out. The small button on the lower side between the Tach and Speedometer is my safety switch that must be pushed in while starting, a manual neutral safety switch.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70399&d=1499997430

Installed the dash grab bar (idea stolen from edwardb)...I have it braced to the 2x2 frame rail. I'll try to take some pics.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70398&d=1499997428

Starting the wiring now and to be honest it's a bit more challenging than it should be but I'm slogging through it.

[Jacob]

Here is a pic of the bracing I built for the grab bar. It's 1/2 inch x 1/8 inch flatbar with extra bracing welded on and its real firm. This view is looking down from the heater box.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70397&d=1499997427

[Jacob]

Dash / Gauge / Switch wiring roughed in and tested most of the circuits and so far they all work as designed...even the Russ Thompson dimmer / flash to pass! Thanks to Edwardb for coaching me through this. Few pics below:

Including this pic to show how the Russ Thompson hub fits. I still have about 1/8" to move inward. Also in this pic below the column is an LED momentary push switch that will act as a clutch safety switch, have to push it while turning the key to start. I didn't want to try to fabricate a clutch lever safety switch.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70395&d=1499997424


This pic may show the grain of the marine vinyl cover that I used on the dash. I like the texture of it. I will cover this console box that contains the fuse panel and use SS button head screws to hold a vinyl carbon fiber cover.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70394&d=1499997423

[Jacob]

Catching up on a few items.

Installed the set screw that will hold the hub adaptor in place.
71126

Slight set back. Seems when the motor was assembled the bell housing was intended for a TKO trans rather than a T-5. Was getting ready to start putting the motor and transmission in the car and after wrestling with the transmission by myself, decided to stop and measure bolt holes...so waiting on the replacement to arrive.



Decided how I was going to open and close the footbox vents. Found some 24" throttle cables that worked out real well.

71127

I installed the drive shaft cage. Realizing others have a negative view of the one I installed, but I think it will be fine, especially given how I intend to drive it. Sometimes, cheap insurance is better than none at all.

71129

Almost finished with stuffing the wiring and defroster vents behind the dash. Can't imagine how those who use the Coyote manage to get all the wires back there? The space filled up fast.

71130

[Jacob]

Dropped the motor in, so I feel like I might have accomplished something. Motor went in fairly easily, did it by myself and took about an hour and a good amount of that was getting the driveshaft to line up. Had the front wheels on the ground and the rear jacked up about a foot or so.


http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70414&d=1499997550

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70415&d=1499997552

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70413&d=1499997549

[Jacob]

Radiator installed. Using the Breeze radiator mounting system. Seemed to worked out well. Right now it's set at about 51 degrees with adjustment room to get to 56. (Please excuse if any of these pics are duplicates, but since photobucket hijacked my pics, I'm having to edit all previous posts).


http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70410&d=1499997544



http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70411&d=1499997546

Got most of the power steering hoses fabbed up, power steering fluid cooler, reservoir mounted and only lack the line going from the bottom of the reservoir to the pump. A straight fitting will work better than the 90 that I have on hand.


http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70408&d=1499997541

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70424&d=1499997717

[Jacob]

Trying posting photos using the Forum Albums...

about to wrap up the electrical (still waiting on the FiTech system, so a certain amount of wiring is in limbo).

Coolant plumbed

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70426&d=1499997719

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70425&d=1499997718

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70424&d=1499997717

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70423&d=1499997715

Using this method to post pics is easy and better than trying to use photobucket!

[Jacob]

Trying to catch up with the last few items I've worked on:

Relieved that my fabbed up air vent system wouldn't be too close to the exhaust header. Header isn't permanently attached since I'll still need to add the O2 sensor (once I get the FiTech system). Been waiting quite a while for it, but have been told its on the way. I will likely be asking for help wiring up the Fitech system, I am confused on the cooling fan and fuel pump wiring?

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71120&d=1501182153

Powder coated the Breeze roll bars with a 'chrome powder coating and followed with a clear coat. The finish is more like a ceramic coating on headers. I modified the roll bar by having an adjustable backstop on the rear of the roll bar. Likely because I welded too vigorously and the piping shrunk, but at any rate I can live with having it bolted up.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71119&d=1501182134

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71125&d=1501183405

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71124&d=1501183404

Mounted the coil. Wiring temporarily right now. Once I know the engine will start I'll make the wiring neater.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71118&d=1501182116

Plumbing done on the cooling system and the power steering system.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71121&d=1501182173

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71122&d=1501182237

Next is to remove the distributor and prime the oil pump and check pressure.

[Jacob]

Today I decided to cover the center console with the marine vinyl like I have on the dash. All went well until I took the shifter bezel out of the box and realized I have an oval shifter hole in the tunnel sheetmetal and a round bezel that leaves quite a gap uncovered.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71294&d=1501355646

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71296&d=1501355720

[wareaglescott]

You should have a fill panel for the trans tunnel cover with a circular hole in it. Of course after putting it in you will need to recover.

[Jacob]

You should have a fill panel for the trans tunnel cover with a circular hole in it. Of course after putting it in you will need to recover.

Found that panel...I've gotten a bit lazy and think I know more than the manual!

[Jacob]

The fix for the tunnel console wasn't too much of a big deal. Just put the filler panel in , filled in the void with the PC-7 (good stuff, an epoxy that can be sanded, but not easily), riveted the fill panel in and recovered the tunnel panel.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71477&d=1501453689

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71478&d=1501453709

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=71479&d=1501453738

[Jacob]

Tested the oil pump today and with the electric drill I could get 55 PSI. Just waiting on the FiTech system to get here, wire it up and then I see no reason that the engine can't be test fired.

[Jacob]

The Ignition Module is installed and the FiTech system is installed, wired and plumbed. I haven't set the system up with the initial inputs yet. Filled the cooling system and checked for leaks. So about all I need to do is put the side pipes on, get an assistant to standby with an extinguisher.

I'm gonna list below my wiring details (mainly for my memory) but if anyone sees a problem or potential problem please let me know. I am using the MSD 6AL box and ready to run distributor.

MSD Box
Red - to IGN SW (orange IGN Feed)
Orange- + terminal coil
Black - - terminal of coil
Green / Violet - to the Distributor (its a two wire)
White - not used
Gray - to tach feed and Blue wire from Fitech
Ground - to frame

FiTech
Red - to battery, hot all the time
White - to IGN Feed (same post as the MSD red wire)
Yellow- to the green FAN SW wire at the radiator
Blue - to gray of MSD box and the yellow tach feed
Black - not used (for A/C), this kicks up RPM when using A/C
Orange- directly to the in-tank fuel pump (not using the tan RF feed to the pump)
I'll clean up the wiring once I make sure all is good.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72443&d=1502919786

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72442&d=1502919760

[Jacob]

After spending the better part of the last two days trying to start the engine, essentially found the timing was 180 degrees off. Should not have assumed it was close. A bit puzzled because MSD says the LED should be on when the ignition is in the ON position...it initially lights but then goes out. There was also some issue with the communication between the MSD box and the Fitech system (5 LED blinks and then off is a REV limit deal that when using EFI has to be disabled). I know I should have a video but ...

[Straversi]

I feel your pain and eventual relief. Congratulations.

-Steve

[Jacob]

Guess it had to happen...had (have) a small setback. Kept noticing a small amount of oil beneath the oil pan around the plug area, so I assumed either the gasket was bad or not tight enough...then decided to really look close with a magnifying glass and good lights. The weld around the oil pan near the plug has a pinhole leak. So just when I was about to wrap up the frame / motor / etc and get ready to put the body on, this happens. Once the alignment is done, it's ready to go kart.

The resolution is going to be replacing the oil pan. I've come too far to attempt fixing a defective part and I don't want to be continually dealing with oil drops!

[Jacob]

Finished fabbing up my mechanical linkage, had heard no real good feedback on the standard throttle cable. Figured I better go ahead and address it now. Turned out ok. Short story doing it myself came in just north of $100, probably could have done it a bit cheaper, but all in all I'm satisfied. It would take more time now than I have but if anyone wants the part list I can put that together. I'm gonna move the coil off the firewall and onto the side. The arms allow for quite a bit of adjustment, so I believe it will work?

Soon I'll trailer to the alignment shop and should be ready to try out the go kart? Just a few days from one year the start date.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73383&d=1504814492

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73384&d=1504814518

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73385&d=1504814533

looking down toward the foot pedal, maybe it's clear how the throttle rod is routed?

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73387&d=1504814546

[Jacob]

Asking for ride height opinions

Tires are: Front 255/40 ZR17
Rear 315/35 ZR17

When I measure from the floor to the bottom of each frame rail corner, I get:

FR 4 5/8" RR 5 3/4"
FL 4 5/8" LR 5 11/16"

Given these measurements what are the thoughts as far as adjusting these? Any and all help appreciated!

[wareaglescott]

closer to 4" is typical. However without the body on it is not super critical at this point. Once the body is on you will have to reset and align everything anyways.

[Jacob]

Took the first go kart ride today. (trying to figure out how to put the video on you tube?)...at any rate, all was good. Got the alignment done and took it around the neighborhood.

https://www.facebook.com/jacob.adcock.39/posts/10210704595872615?notif_id=1509809955087230&notif_t=like

[Jacob]

Starting work on the body. Rolled the underside of the body with bedliner (realizing I'll likely get overspray on it later) and also applied acrylic latex caulk to each of wheel wells hoping this will allow some "cushion" for future rock pecks?

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76549&d=1510250073

The lighter black area is where the caulk was applied.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76548&d=1510250019

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76550&d=1510250519

[wareaglescott]

Good idea with the caulk. I did not do anything to the underside of my wheel wells and every time I roll over some loose stones and hear them pelting the underside of the body I cringe! You will be pleased you did that. Looking good.

[awd-turbo]

Nicely done... For the fender inserts I sprayed them with a rubberized spray to help w the rocks. I sprayed self etching paint, and them the spray on rubber. I got it from Lowe's, I don't have a lot of miles, but it went on nice. I also did the aluminum on the bottom of the car.

[Jacob]

Sorta of an update: washed the fiberglass parts with Dawn to get rid of the accumulated dust, then wiped down x2 with degreaser and then used 3M scotchbrite pads with abrasive cleaner (comet). Rolled the wheel opening lips to about 95% satisfaction. Then tried a test area with a DA sander and 120 grit disc to see how the gelcoat will sand down at the seams. The plan is to sand the seams down and then areas where the gelcoat is beneath the surface of the seam, grind those areas out with a dremel tool. Then use filler on the seams (rage gold).



http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77256&d=1511982211

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77254&d=1511982151

[Jacob]

Uncurred Gelcoat problem

I started today tackling the uncurred gel coat issue. Background on this...I was probing the seams with a pic and found 4 areas where the gelcoat is still soft (body was built August 2016). Discussed with FFR and they were very apologetic and we discussed how to proceed. In essence, grind the gelcoat until I stopped finding uncurred gelcoat, clean with acetone, backfill 95% or so with 3M HSRF and finess with body filler. So today I started with my dremel with a sanding drum and gently ground the areas out. Some areas were like veins and ran a bit before they cleared up. Two areas are pretty substantial. The photos below are the most serious location. Pretty sure it will all be fine after they are fixed.


This will sorta give you an idea of how the gelcoat looks once the crust is ground off. The deeper red area is gummy and soft. This area was passenger side rear top corner.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77483&d=1512610333

This is the area that is the most serious. Passenger top corner by the windshield post

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77481&d=1512610219

This is that area, with the gelcoat (uncurred) ground out. Note the blue spot that's my finger showing the 1/4" hole in the fiberglass (there is no fiberglass there and I did not grind it out, it just wasn't there), so I'll have to reinforce with more glass later.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77482&d=1512610242

This is that area with the first hit of HSRF. I'll sorta grind this down and touch up with body filler if it doesn't need any more HSRF. As I went down the seam I found more uncurred gel coat.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77486&d=1512610450

I'll let these 4 areas cure for a few days and start cleaning them up and get them ready for filler / sanding.

[Jacob]

Filled the area with HSRF and sanded flush with the surface then used rage gold to finesse the surface:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77699&d=1513034465

Kept finding some raw gelcoat in about 4-5 areas so just decided I better grind out the seams. Interesting, the surface looked hard and felt hard, but when ground down, the passenger front fender had the most soft areas, so I had to be pretty aggresive, I kept finding pockets of raw gelcoat, Hopefully I got all of it:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77700&d=1513034498

Then initially filled these voids with HSRF and will sand this off in a few days, then come back with filler:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77701&d=1513034520

[Jacob]

Continued working on getting the seams filled in and ready for primer. Installed the Finish Line louvers (95%). Trying to do as much as I can before putting the body on for door gaps, etc.

This gives you an idea of how much needs to be removed to make the opening semitrical with grill fins:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78142&d=1514050730

Opening needs just a bit more filing:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78170&d=1514133189

[Jacob]

Just in case it appeared that I haven’t been working on the car, I have been sanding and getting ready for the first body test fit. My computer died and I now have an iPad and not learning too fast how to post pics. Although the cold weather is keeping me out of the shop!

[Yama-Bro]

Same here, the cold weather definitely slowed down my progress.

[DavidW]

Louver opening looks great, looks like that didn't take to much time either.

[Jacob]

Louver opening looks great, looks like that didn't take to much time either.

Didn’t take but 1/2 hr or so but does make a difference!

[Jacob]

For more than one reason, decided not to use the brake light switch in the kit. I couldn’t imagine how I’d have to twist and turn if it needed adjusting...I’m too old and not flexible. The electric switch seemed to be very sensitive and I’ve had good luck with the hydraulic type.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/album.php?albumid=1265&attachmentid=81006

[Jacob]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/album.php?albumid=1265&attachmentid=81476

Initial body fit, good so far

[Jacob]

Need info please

For mounting the rear of the body I am using the modification with the threaded nuts rather than the long bolts provided... the spacer tube is 3.75 “, I am about 3/8” less than that to achieve the 3.75”...if I pull the body back to get this satisfied, the driver door hinge won’t open but if I satisfy the door latch area and door hinges, I’m about 3/8” under this...is this 3.75” critical?

[Jacob]

Got the body firmly mounted and fitting everything that will need to be drilled or opened up. Just like the pros said, driver door in on the front and out at the back, pass door in at both locations.
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Sorry for the pictures but I had to start using my iPad and this the only way I know to post pics. At the top corner of the door I assume most builders build that area up with HSRF and contour into the dark?

[Jacob]

Progress is slow but I’m attempting to mount everything I can think of prior to disassembling for paint. Putting off mounting the windshield for last.
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[Jacob]

Mini bear jaw door latches

Since I wasn’t hearing much good about the FFR door latches and experience I had with having to pull while holding the latch on my previous hot rod, I decided to attempt installing the bear claw latches, so I could slam the door closed and stay closed. Have some more work to do to dress it up but here is what the passenger side looks like. Slams shut and stays!

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[DavidW]

Looks great, definitely do all fitting prior to paint. I wasn't confident at the time and regret not going through the process, I left it up to the painter and they did all the fitting and body work.

Back to your post from July last year, did you end up putting the Fitech O2 sensor in the header, if you could post a pick please do. How do you like the system? I'm thinking about switching over to EFI maybe next year and am looking at MSD and Fitech.

[broku518]

Progress is slow but I’m attempting to mount everything I can think of prior to disassembling for paint. Putting off mounting the windshield for last.
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Hi Jacob,

I think the windshield should go in prior adjusting the door. It can affect the door overall fitment. I am fitting the body as well now.

Broku518

[Jacob]

Looks great, definitely do all fitting prior to paint. I wasn't confident at the time and regret not going through the process, I left it up to the painter and they did all the fitting and body work.

Back to your post from July last year, did you end up putting the Fitech O2 sensor in the header, if you could post a pick please do. How do you like the system? I'm thinking about switching over to EFI maybe next year and am looking at MSD and Fitech.

If you look real close on my #56 post on the left you can see where the sensor is on the header. I can get you a better pic. I put the O2 sensor on the header per Gordon Levy,s recommendation. My experience so far with Fitech has been limited to go carts around the neighborhood and infrequent starts, but so far it starts and runs! Based on what I read , some fine tuning / adjustments will be needed after 3-400 Miles.

[Jacob]

Hi Jacob,

I think the windshield should go in prior adjusting the door. It can affect the door overall fitment. I am fitting the body as well now.

Broku518

Yes I’ve heard that too, and also read where the body should not touch either of the posts? So many horror stories on the windshield, makes me reluctant to touch it...even though I know it’s got to be dealt with!

[broku518]

Yes I’ve heard that too, and also read where the body should not touch either of the posts? So many horror stories on the windshield, makes me reluctant to touch it...even though I know it’s got to be dealt with!

That is correct, no touching. Plus, you may need some shims for brackets and frames. They may not lined up, you certainly don't want to create any pressure point there.

My least favorite part, it requires two people and you don't know if you have a problem until it cracks :(

[Jacob]

I have an assortment of shims and plan on following Edwardb’s method of tapping with 1/2” thread and shimming...plus not letting the body contact the posts...after that?

[Pineapplehead]

Nice work Jacob. The vinyl you chose looks great.

[broku518]

I have an assortment of shims and plan on following Edwardb’s method of tapping with 1/2” thread and shimming...plus not letting the body contact the posts...after that?

You should be good to go. You may need to keep in mind the angle/distance, if you plan on doing a soft top. I recall something like 27" measured from front top of the windshield screw to end of the door panel. Either ways, it would be a good practice.
There are some well documented treads with pictures, https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?15914-windshield&highlight=gumbal

[Jacob]

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Since I installed the IRS by myself, figured I’d go ahead and mount the windshield. Passenger side required more shims than the driver side? Normal? Anyway everything has been assembled and taken off. Installed the mini bear claw latches and now starting to level up the areas around the doors.

[Jacob]

Still sanding and sanding....

[Yama-Bro]

Are you going to paint it yourself? (Sorry, if you've already posted the answer)

[Jacob]

Are you going to paint it yourself? (Sorry, if you've already posted the answer)

Yep...I’ve painted a few cars, but I’m real slow and deliberate. Always solid colors so I’m waffling between silver and white as primary colors? Besides if I paid the $$$ and got a scratch or chip I’d be sick!

[Jacob]

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Almost have both doors where I’m comfortable with their fit. Probably how I fit the panels beneath both doors, but I’m not liking how much filler I’ve had to use to get the right levels between the door panels and the front and rear posts. Tried to follow the instructions where the pass side is pushed in and the driver side in at the post and out at the rear? Shooting for 3/16” for the gaps.

[Jacob]

This is my attempt to get the “curl” out of the rear corners of the hood....

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[Jacob]

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Got the door gaps, trunk gaps and hood gaps set. Hood scoop and hood cutout set. Plan to take the body off and get ready to start the primer filler stage (slick sand). Arrived at a center line. Had to apply pressure and heat to push down the curl on the ends of the hood. Quite a bit of work to this point! The pressure and heat so work!

[Jacob]

Took the body off after all the gaps have been set to 3/16”. Also after windshield set, side pipes, headlights,tail lights, hood scoop, basically all holes drilled so that I won’t be messing with a freshly painted body. Will spray slick sand next week.
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[Jacob]

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Started applying slick sand today. Trying for three coats on all panels. Hope to spray the body tomorrow!

[Jacob]

2 Gallons of Slick Sand on

Didn’t have any issues getting the slick sand on, once I got a gun with a bigger nozzle (2.0). Think another gallon may be needed after block sanding? Sanded a small spot and it impressed me with how smooth the surface was!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/album.php?albumid=1360&attachmentid=86715
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/album.php?albumid=1360&attachmentid=86716

[Jacob]

Currently sanding the slick sand with 150 grit. Plan to spray with one more gallon of reduced slick sand and use 240 grit prior to primer coats. None of this is done very quickly (obvious that painting is a long labor intensive process)!

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[Jacob]

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After 3rd gallon of slick sand (overkill I’m sure),sanded with 220 grit. This dry guide coat stuff is great, should anybody be curious?

[Jacob]

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The warm weather and other obligations have slowed me a bit. The 2K primer has been sprayed and now I’ll sand this to 400, then 500 before paint. Color not yet decided?

[Jacob]

In the last stage of sanding before paint, wet sanding with 600 using a dry guide coat. This is good stuff. Seems like it amplifies the orange peel from the primer, but the surface is smooth as a baby’s butt. Just gently sand until all the low black areas disappear. Doors,trunk,hood and scoop done. Just lack sanding the body.
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[Jacob]

Done with sanding prior to paint, block sanded 2x with 600, used guide coat powder. Plan from here is wait a few weeks for less humidity and cooler temps, then paint. Obviously haven’t worked on the body everyday but as a point of reference, body work started Dec 2017, with a bit of overkill stopped sanding yesterday!

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[Jacob]

Started paint today. Painting doors, hood, trunk and scoop. Wimbledon white with Ford Lightning blue stripes. Pecking order puts the body in the garage while these parts are being painted.

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[Jacob]

Making progress, got the stripes sprayed and masked off, will spray white tomorrow

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[Jacob]

Happy with the stripes , unhappy with the orange peel in the clear (my fault for not better setting up the gun). Plan to let the clear cure for a few days and try to sand off most of the orange peel. No reason to pile up more clear so I stopped after the first coat. The horizontal panels are good?

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[Jacob]

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Feeling better after sanding to 3000 and polishing with rubbing compound, should be better after hitting with polishing compound! Sanding took out the orange peel, so for a shade tree painter I’m happy!

[Boydster]

Thats looking nice!!

[Jacob]

Cutting and buffing continue, feeling pretty good, but it’s a slow process

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[Jacob]

Sorta feel like I’m over hump now that the body and hood are buffed and polished!
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[PeteMeindl]

Nice, Jacob! looks great!

[BadAsp427]

Really looks nice... great work... When are you going to build the large paint shop out in the back yard and taking orders?

[wareaglescott]

Looks great. Nice work

[Jacob]

Really looks nice... great work... When are you going to build the large paint shop out in the back yard and taking orders?

Thanks all but....How ‘bout never! At 65...last paint job for me! But I think I said that the last time?

[Pat427]

Looks great!

[Jacob]

Moving day today! One year and about 10 days todo all the body work and painting! I only have room in my garage for either the body or the chassis, so while I’ve been doing the body work the chassis has been sitting idle. Mention this because I have the Fitech FI system and constantly hear the complaints...well it has sat for 12months...hit it with 2 prime shots and started immediately! Now I can install carpet and other interior stuff.


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[Jacob]

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Progress has been slow, mainly weather related (too cold for good contact cement to work), got the cockpit carpet in, installed the breeze seat plates, seats, seat belts, seat heaters. Body on is a week or two?

[Jacob]

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Just about to finish the trunk. Trying to get all the things prior to putting the body on...hoping for the last time!

[Straversi]

Looking good. You’ll be on the road soon.
-Steve

[Jacob]

Touchdown! Body is on...small issue but had I thought enough to make sure the defrost vent would clear the heater box....not a big deal but I’ll need to fabricate a plenum for the passenger side. Heads up for others! Move the defrost vents closer to the center!
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[Jacob]

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Beginning to look like a car. Did the extended nut trick on the rear to avoid dropping the tank to attach the rear bumper. Decided to go ahead and drop the tank and use the long bolts to attach the bumper. Shouldn’t be too much extra work, just didn’t like the idea? The distance from the bumper spacer to the rear of the body appears to be critical and don’t want to chance cracking the body.

[Jacob]

Slowly progressing, Breeze roll bars in and looking good, gas cap, installed foam to help keep hot air out
Next up, side pipes, cabin vents, and 3rd brake light
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[Jacob]

Windshield in, did my best to shim the arms...so we’ll see how it turns out?
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[Jacob]

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Coming together,mirrors then done

[Jacob]

Done, licensed and insured!106203
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